Is this just me or is everyone else tired of the Chrysler customer service? We own a Ford Explorer as well, and I had absolutely no issues with it (knock on wood). Maybe I am too picky about my M and I find all those little things. Sure, the Explorer not as fun to drive as the M. But a few observations:
- all of my visits with ford "Quality Care" dealers were a pleasant experience compared to 5*. Only oil changes, tire rotations, and a firestone tire exchange program. they swapped those for Bad Years for free.
- You get a loaner car. Yes, once I was stuck driving a Cougar they gave me for a day, but its a car. I dont have to take the 5* shuttle, then figure out the whole who is taking what car etc thing. Its a free loaner car. Although you have to have one reserved in advance in most cases
- the ford mechanics working on my car were by far superior in their quality of work compared to 5*
- one ford dealer I went to always did an inspection of your car. That is, brakes, fluids, tire pressure, etc. you get a report card that indicates if they topped off any fluids/adjusted anything. At no extra charge! 5* dealer that I used fixed one thing but broke another. If they are working on one thing, this is the only thing they work on, they completely ignore the rest of the vehicle.
I am not comparing the two cars, they are very different vehicles with different purposes. I am just comparing Ford vs Chrysler vs others in general. No doubt 300M rocks, but their customer service...
Blonda - Yea, my wife had a 95 Grand Am and it had an internal hex or star plug. I had to buy "the tool" to change her oil. It was only a few bucks, but it makes you wonder why they would bother doing that. I can't think of a single reason other than to discourage people from changing their own oil. Seems silly. Maybe the good folks at GM have to much time on their hands!
The edges are beveled and smooth on all the pieces. The color match is very close. When there is bright sunlight shining on the dash, you can tell a slight difference in that the add-on pieces are a little darker brown. The woodgrain is not a perfect match and the piece with the opening around the shifter could have been cut a 1/16" larger in the lengthwise direction. I also wish it had the cool little piece for the overhead computer switches. Overall, though, I'm very pleased with the kit and the price was right. :-)
Couldn't agree more! I do have an idea though. Since the Daimler - Chrysler merge, why not swap out half of the Mercedes mechanics to 5*'s and half of the the 5*'s to Mercedes. That way both dealer service depts will have both "types" of mechanics. I assure you the so called 5* guys will pick up a thing or two about service and dealing with their customers!
maybe someone should tell those people at Alkaplus to make a piece for the overhead consold and maybe the entire area around the clock and vent---they claim to include more pieces than most but the facts prove them wrong---if they made a custom piece for 300Michael, I would think they would oblige 300M owners---maybe if our Prez sent them a letterhead club logoed letter, they would get the message---also they should be told about the pice around the shifter being too short as Smitty had mentioned---
overall sounds like a good deal at just $105 for the wood kit---
"Since the Daimler - Chrysler merge, why not swap out half of the Mercedes mechanics to 5*'s and half of the the 5*'s to Mercedes. "
If I see a Benz with a hood that wont close fully, or drain plug that is rounded/wont come off, or any other issue caused by a careless mechanic, I will know that this reorg took place. LOL
I believe you have the alkaplus trim---do you feel it is a decent match the the synthetic wood trim in the 99 and 00 m----or does it stand out too much as it is the real wood and the grain is probably not consistent
Well, I got an email back from the guy on Ebay about his trim kit. Here's what I asked:
"I was looking at your wood dash trim for the 300M and was wondering if the pieces had beveled (rounded) edges or just flat? Also, I have a 1999 300M. Is the wood color a factory match to what I have?"
Here's his reply:
"This kit is not molded but it flat laser cut. It has smooth edges and it bend able to fit the curves on the dashes. If you have mahagony rosewood, like in the picture shown this will match perfectly. If not we do have other selection of colors. thanks"
Now, according to Smitty in a post above, the Alkaplus trim is beveled and rounded so maybe it's not the same company on Ebay.
Recently, I had the shifter cables replaced and even though it wasn't covered under warranty, I was very pleased with the attitude and quick work of our local 5 star.
In fact, they found the parts I needed at a nearby Dodge dealer and had the parts shipped to them the same day. Otherwise, I would have waited about 3 weeks to get them in on order. The car was completely clean when I picked it up. Except for the shifter that was now working properly, you would never have known that my car was worked on.
Today I got a call from the dealer making sure everything was done to complete satisfaction. I guess I'm lucky we actually have a dealership that the term "5 Star" means something.
I did not mean to say all 5* are bad. I am sure there are good ones and bad ones. But just based on my experience, the 5* that I used has been consistently low quality, high frustration. To most people, its the first impression that matters. I am yet to find an acceptable 5* in my area. There is a list of dealers at www.300mclub.org, I think there should also be a black list of dealers there - those that consistently fail to meet their own standards so that people avoid them!
I just received my replacement shift console piece via UPS. I should get to installing it tomorrow...unless I chicken out and wait for help. has anyone here removed their console to install the trim? It seems that it might be easier to work on at least the radio trim if it was removed. My cell phone holder is a bit in the way, and I think working on a vertical rather than horizontal surface would make things tougher. Anyone done it this way?
Last Friday I sat inside a Special at the NY Auto Show. I absolutely hated the "carbon fiber" trim that takes the place of the wood. In my opinion, the metallic trim and two-tone seats in the Pro Am edition are much nicer changes. Anyone else think so? Chrysler uses that same carbon fiber trim in the new Sebring GTC convertible, and it looks terrible in that application, too. Is it just me, or is Chrysler getting annoying with all these new trim models (I especially hate the "e" model minivans...)?
Several people here have talked about the digital quality of "Hell Freezes Over" by the Eagles. I'm in the process of downloading the MP3 files now...uh...for review purposes only of course. I just made plans to see the Blue Man Group in Vegas next month and have been surfing some related sites. Have you guys heard their music (kind of techno/percussion meets Gary Hoey...think "beating on PVC with killer guitar and bass backing") ? I can't wait to burn a CD for in my M. Here's a sample:
why dont you email him again and ask him if he and alkaplus are one and the same---if he is not the alkaplus company, ask him how he can steal their drawings etc---also ask if he would be able to supply an overhead computer console piece and a piece for the complete vent-clock area
I think it's www.discountdash.com that sells the full clock pod piece, as well as the overhead computer console piece. They don't use real wood though....however DC didn't on the rosewood trim either. Glennbp got discountdash's carbon fiber kit and it seems to fit real nice. The computer console is my favorite piece in the joshua tree kit. Fits and looks great
Keep in mind that there are only a couple of real manufacturers of the wood trim kits. I've seen the same drawings over and over at several sites, and my guess is that the drawings are licensed to the retailers. That could explain why this guy has the same drawings.
Only a few dealers actually make the trim. Most of these are resellers, that is why you see them using the same drawings and Part #'s. The alkaplus matched the custom auto trim I got perfectly except for the epoxy clear coat was not as thick.
I have the part numbers for the 99, 00, and 02's only what year do you have? The part numbers for the 99's is 4383 543 for the rear clip. 4779 055 for the front clips. Hope this helps.
I just did a little surfing and found what looked like 5 different kits for the M. Three of them are sold by Autodash Emporium (www.autodash.com) so you can see some of the differences. Here are the layouts for some of them. http://www.ritchiefamily.com/trim/.
B&I
B&I makes the flat 18 piece kit that sells at autodash emporium, exotic wooddash, and wooddash.com (I think). I can't tell if it's real wood or not, but it's awfully expensive (over $300 in most cases). It doesn't include the computer console piece or the seat controls either.
Florida Autotrim
I only found kits made by Florida Autotrim at Autodash Emporium. It's an interesting 20 pc kit, including some "door rings" that look like they might go around the speakers or something. Not sure if it's real wood or not.
Woodview
Woodview makes the molded synthetic kits sold by Discount Dash, Autodash Emporium and Autoanything. They have the full clock pod and a wide range of finishes to choose from. They also have the only kits with pieces to cover existing trim, like the long piece on the dash and the ones on the doors. Don't get it from autoanything, as they're at least $100 more expensive than discount dash or autodash.
Mystery San Diego or Tijuana Manufacturer
The real trim kits sold by Joshua Tree, Dashboards Plus and Wood Dash Factory come from somewhere close to me down here in San Diego. The kits come in 21 or 22 piece versions, as well as real burlwood or synthetic rosewood. Joshua Tree also sells aluminum and other finish kits but I don't know much about them. Its' the real wood and luxury group factory match that sets them apart. The kits run about $240 from Joshua Tree (woodtrim.com), but Wood Dash Factory sells them for about $25 cheaper.
Mystery Alkaplus/Ebay Manufacturer
The kit kind of looks like the B&I kits, but it has two more pieces. The diagrams are a little different too. I haven't been able to find any additional information on these kits.
Well, I hope that helps some people. Bottom line is, if you're looking for a luxury group match, pick the Joshua Tree / wooddashfactory kit. If you want a full clock pod cover, get a woodview kit from Discount Dash or Autodash Emporium. If you don't want to spend much money, go to alkaplus.
300Michael-Thanks Mike. I have a 99 so the numbers should work fine. I will price them locally at the dealer and compare with Wyckoff on the net. Usually my 5* has rip-off prices, but if these are only a few bucks I will save the UPS charges and buy locally.
Apparently the world has forgotten about our friend the helicoil.
It's the little device you use to save a very expensive aluminum head when some "gorilla" overtightens a plug and strips the threads. With one of these little items you even get to keep your original drain plug.
Something to keep in mind about any quick lube: The employees are usually minimum wage recruits who either don't know or don't care. They just want to be sure the plug doesn't fall out or the filter doesn't leak. Tight is when you crank on it with 2ft breaker bar until it won't move.
So if the drain plugs are way overtight what about the oil filters?
I would have to agree with you on the dash of the M Special. I too do not like the carbon fiber look either. I have the California wood pkg on my '01M and love it! However, I do absoulutely LOVE the 18" rims/tires that come on the Special. They make my 17's look plain, so I guess I need to upgrade mine to 18's. I have an idea for the rims, does anyone recommend a good tire? (That's not real high priced) I love my Michelin Pilot's, but they ARE one of the most expensive out there. I would like a wider tire too, and I believe I can go to a 245 width. I wanna fill up the wheel wells! So I guess I need to lower it too, but I heard there are problems when lowering this car and the suspension's ability to handle the stress. Any truth to this???? I guess I'm just itching to do more mods on my M!
hey do you have the part numbers for the bolts ? Im going to have them put on when I finally get my cross drilled rotors (they forgot to cadmium plate them so I had to send them back !) and Im not goin got have the dealer do it, so I better supply everything needed... Do you have a place online you can order them from ?
I was looking at the pics of Glenn's Dash kit, and comparing them to what I recieved from discount dash and they are totally different... they changed the carbon fiber pattern... I like it though and it looks great...
Your carbon fiber interior looks great! You're right about the pattern change; It looks like they rotated the "fibers" 45 degrees. I wonder if they did this to match the carbon fiber trim that comes standard on the Special? I saw a Special at the SD meet, but I didn't look at the trim that closely. Anyway, it looks terrific. Did all the pieces go to place as easily as mine?
I seem to remember a cool little plug replacement that allowed the oil to be drained without removing the plug. It had a kind of tap thingy that you could open and then shut again without using any tools at all. I wonder if they still make this and is it worthwhile? Anyone else remember these?
You should be able to work around the cellphone holder easily. It looks like it would be in the way, but it's really not. For the top piece, what I did was get it really soft with a blowdryer then had my husband help me get it aligned. Then he held the bottom half tightly in place while I lifted the very top piece and pulled off just the top portion of the tape (you'll have to cut or break it in the middle so you call pull it off from both side). Once you get the very top stuck on....you just smooth it down a section at a time--pullng off the tape as you go. The bottom piece should fit over the shift knob easily of you get it soft enough. I followed the same process as the top one to install, but it's a little easier.
Thanks. Did your husband grumble the whole time? I'm just thinking since I'm going to do this by myself I might have better luck using gravity instead of fighting it.
I just ordered a new set of tires for my 18x8 rims. This will be my third set of tires; the first two sets were Dunlop SP9000. I have 48k miles now. The first set went 22k, the second 26k. They're so bald now I hope it doesn't rain before I get the new tires mounted. I ordered a set of Yokohama AVS db tires from Tire Rack and they'll arrive at my installer Any Day Now.
To me, any tire for 18" rims is expensive. The Dunlops weighed in at over $200 each. The Yokohamas are $173 each. I forget what the treadwear rating on the Dunlops was (either 220 or 280) but I'm expecting longer wear from the Yokohamas (320). All are rated A for dry traction and A for wet traction.
Three years ago I had a choice of 4 tires in my size (255/45 18) and now I found nearly 20. But they're all ultra-high performance and therefore ultra-high price.
After I've run the Yokohamas a few miles I'll post a report.
I have checked for the bolts (L=28mm) at some of the parts websites like OEM parts. None seem to sell the bolts alone. The paper work says that you must exchange the existing rubber trans mount for Part # 04663970 AB. I have checked my parts manual for our 99's and that is the only part listed, as a trans mount for our 99's. I am going to talk again to the dealer (new struts that way they can do the springs at the same time) and will talk to them about the mounts.
The placing of this piece is a piece of cake, just take your time and make sure it is nice and soft, peel back a small amount of the backing at the top and make sure it is in the right position and the rest will fall in place. I believe it to be a 1 person operation as 2 might spoil the broth. I am all fingers and toes but if I can do it, so can you. I saw pictures of your new doghouse (that's what it will be used for unless you get a job and stop these mods) LOL
Did he grumble...nah. It only took about 5 minutes. (Then he had the satisfaction of knowing he helped for part of it). By the way...he still hasn't noticed the K&N Charger. It put it in the weekend he was gone and the box of OEM stuff is way up on a shelf in the garage. I think he's seen it in the car since, but hasn't really made the connection between that one and the drop in one I had ordered the first time (snuck that one in!).
Listen to blonda...she has the console install dowm pat! Yes, it is intimidating, but if you get the parts really warm, and peel the backing as you go, it is pretty easy. Good luck!
Since grunschev & cmyers300m brought up the subject, I would like to have some questions. I'm very interested in replacing my 01' PHP with bigger tire & rim to 245/45/18. Do I need to lower the car? There is no way for me to do it since I'm not a car mechanics at all but I do change oil myself. May I know which rims you guy got or getting? Scott points out that there are rims for front wheel drive car to avoid using spacers and/or adapter plates which may cause problems with drivability and handeling. I assume most after market rims are dedicated for rear wheel drive and finding front wheel drive rims not easy. Those suggested by TireRack doesn't has enough info. Blonda, haven't heard your performance finding with the K&N Air Charger yet. Thank you for all the posts in here.
I'm working on it now. I guess I'm nervous because the biggest piece doesn't fit quite right, nor does the original that Joshua Tree sent (I have two of the shifter console). If you line it up on the autostick slot, there is a big gap on the left side. If you center it as best as you can, with the PRND lined up pretty well, the slot for the autostick indicator is covered about 1/4 inch on the right...with an associated error on the left. Even if I get the part perfectly situated it won't be perfect, so there is little margin for error. That's what is making me so cautious.
you don't HAVE to lower your car under any circumstance. If you decrease the overall circumerence of the tire/wheel combination you might find a larger gap between the tire and the wheel well if you don't lower it. However, you'll also have speedometer/odometer reading issues if you don't get the circumference right. Here is a link to a tire size calculator. If you put in our original tire size....225x55x17 you'll see that a 255x45x18 will give you a wider tire, a more aggressive side wall height, and almost exactly the same drive diameter (only a 1.1% difference). Also, unless someone can tell me the physics of it, I see NO reason why the rims for a front wheel drive car would be any different than a rear wheel drive car. That's why you don't see "front" or "rear" in the descriptions at any of the wheel sites.
SDMike - That's what he said to me when my Joshua Tree replacement parts arrived...."what did you buy now?"
300Kam - I put in the charger only about 2 weeks after I had the duals installed so is a little hard for me to differentiate between the two, but I think since I put in the charger I notice a little more torque than with just the duals. I had the drop-in K&N filter prior to that which also made a slight difference, so the added performance with the charger isn't as great as it would be if I had been using the OEM filter.
Next step is the Bosch Plugs which I have been carrying around in my trunk for about 2 months (that doesn't count as an install does it?). My father said he'd put them in for me next time I see him as he has the tools and stuff. (plus I'm afraid to do anything myself that doesn't come with instructions and pictures).
I remember when I stripped out a spark plug on my 85 Subaru XT many moons ago and it cost me about $30 to have a local shop helicoil the head. The dealer wanted to replace my block!!! I'm still not sure exactly what a helicoil is (although I have a reasonable idea that it's a self-boring sleeve of a pre-determined inner size), but the name and applications sure are cool!.
That sucks that your piece isn't fitting right. Mine fit no problem, but it's the different shifter. I have little holes for the gear indicators which you would think would be harder to match, and the fit is absolutely perfect. Are you installing those little trim pieces that go on the side of the console? I didn't...figured those would be harder to get straight and it looks good without them.
You can do this yourself. Get yourself a set of torx sockets (harborfreight.com), a 5/8" sparkplug socket, a 3/8" ratchet, and a 8" long 3/8" socket extension.
1. At each plug, there is a small connector that you pinch to disconnect the the wire leading to the plug boot. Once the wire is disconnected...
2.Use the appropriate size torx socket to remove the two long screws that hold the spark plug coil/boot in place. Once the screws are loose, a gentle pull on the top of the boot, and it slides up and out of the way. Then...
3.Use the 5/8 spark plug socket to remove the spark plug.
4. Make sure you buy some spark plug anti-seize compound at the auto parts store to put on the plug threads of the new plug. The Bosch+4 plugs do not require gapping.
5. Assembly is the reverse of removal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the plug when putting in.
If this explanation makes it worse instead of better, I can clarify further.
Good afternoon to all, I was at the dealer yesterday and finally got a close up look at the Special. I took note of the neat wheel center plugs that have '300 M' stamped in them. Anyone know if they will work on the razorstars on my 2000 M?
Comments
Is this just me or is everyone else tired of the Chrysler customer service? We own a Ford Explorer as well, and I had absolutely no issues with it (knock on wood). Maybe I am too picky about my M and I find all those little things. Sure, the Explorer not as fun to drive as the M. But a few observations:
- all of my visits with ford "Quality Care" dealers were a pleasant experience compared to 5*. Only oil changes, tire rotations, and a firestone tire exchange program. they swapped those for Bad Years for free.
- You get a loaner car. Yes, once I was stuck driving a Cougar they gave me for a day, but its a car. I dont have to take the 5* shuttle, then figure out the whole who is taking what car etc thing. Its a free loaner car. Although you have to have one reserved in advance in most cases
- the ford mechanics working on my car were by far superior in their quality of work compared to 5*
- one ford dealer I went to always did an inspection of your car. That is, brakes, fluids, tire pressure, etc. you get a report card that indicates if they topped off any fluids/adjusted anything. At no extra charge! 5* dealer that I used fixed one thing but broke another. If they are working on one thing, this is the only thing they work on, they completely ignore the rest of the vehicle.
I am not comparing the two cars, they are very different vehicles with different purposes. I am just comparing Ford vs Chrysler vs others in general. No doubt 300M rocks, but their customer service...
MOPAR or no car!
http://dodgeboy.cjb.net
overall sounds like a good deal at just $105 for the wood kit---
easyrider300m
Silver
If I see a Benz with a hood that wont close fully, or drain plug that is rounded/wont come off, or any other issue caused by a careless mechanic, I will know that this reorg took place. LOL
"I was looking at your wood dash trim for the 300M and was wondering if the pieces had beveled (rounded) edges or just flat? Also, I have a 1999 300M. Is the wood color a factory match to what I have?"
Here's his reply:
"This kit is not molded but it flat laser cut. It has smooth edges and it bend able to fit the curves on the dashes. If you have mahagony rosewood, like in the picture shown this will match perfectly. If not we do have other
selection of colors. thanks"
Now, according to Smitty in a post above, the Alkaplus trim is beveled and rounded so maybe it's not the same company on Ebay.
In fact, they found the parts I needed at a nearby Dodge dealer and had the parts shipped to them the same day. Otherwise, I would have waited about 3 weeks to get them in on order. The car was completely clean when I picked it up. Except for the shifter that was now working properly, you would never have known that my car was worked on.
Today I got a call from the dealer making sure everything was done to complete satisfaction. I guess I'm lucky we actually have a dealership that the term "5 Star" means something.
I am yet to find an acceptable 5* in my area. There is a list of dealers at www.300mclub.org, I think there should also be a black list of dealers there - those that consistently fail to meet their own standards so that people avoid them!
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/misc/blue_man_group_-_tv_song.mp3
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/misc/staind_-_for_you.mp3
our country stands strong
http://personal.jax.bellsouth.net/jax/l/c/lchaplin/unkarock/flag.htm
this site will scroll automatically--speed up by using the down arrow
Easyrider300M
M
The part numbers for the 99's is
4383 543 for the rear clip.
4779 055 for the front clips.
Hope this helps.
B&I
B&I makes the flat 18 piece kit that sells at autodash emporium, exotic wooddash, and wooddash.com (I think). I can't tell if it's real wood or not, but it's awfully expensive (over $300 in most cases). It doesn't include the computer console piece or the seat controls either.
Florida Autotrim
I only found kits made by Florida Autotrim at Autodash Emporium. It's an interesting 20 pc kit, including some "door rings" that look like they might go around the speakers or something. Not sure if it's real wood or not.
Woodview
Woodview makes the molded synthetic kits sold by Discount Dash, Autodash Emporium and Autoanything. They have the full clock pod and a wide range of finishes to choose from. They also have the only kits with pieces to cover existing trim, like the long piece on the dash and the ones on the doors. Don't get it from autoanything, as they're at least $100 more expensive than discount dash or autodash.
Mystery San Diego or Tijuana Manufacturer
The real trim kits sold by Joshua Tree, Dashboards Plus and Wood Dash Factory come from somewhere close to me down here in San Diego. The kits come in 21 or 22 piece versions, as well as real burlwood or synthetic rosewood. Joshua Tree also sells aluminum and other finish kits but I don't know much about them. Its' the real wood and luxury group factory match that sets them apart. The kits run about $240 from Joshua Tree (woodtrim.com), but Wood Dash Factory sells them for about $25 cheaper.
Mystery Alkaplus/Ebay Manufacturer
The kit kind of looks like the B&I kits, but it has two more pieces. The diagrams are a little different too. I haven't been able to find any additional information on these kits.
Well, I hope that helps some people. Bottom line is, if you're looking for a luxury group match, pick the Joshua Tree / wooddashfactory kit. If you want a full clock pod cover, get a woodview kit from Discount Dash or Autodash Emporium. If you don't want to spend much money, go to alkaplus.
M
It's the little device you use to save a very expensive aluminum head when some "gorilla" overtightens a plug and strips the threads.
With one of these little items you even get to keep your original drain plug.
Something to keep in mind about any quick lube: The employees are usually minimum wage recruits who either don't know or don't care. They just want to be sure the plug doesn't fall out or the filter doesn't leak. Tight is when you crank on it with 2ft breaker bar until it won't move.
So if the drain plugs are way overtight what about the oil filters?
I guess I'm just itching to do more mods on my M!
For those interested:
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=175340&page=3
Thanks for getting your kit, a dash kit was not on the radar screen for modz until I saw the carbon fiber that you installed...
I just ordered a new set of tires for my 18x8 rims. This will be my third set of tires; the first two sets were Dunlop SP9000. I have 48k miles now. The first set went 22k, the second 26k. They're so bald now I hope it doesn't rain before I get the new tires mounted. I ordered a set of Yokohama AVS db tires from Tire Rack and they'll arrive at my installer Any Day Now.
To me, any tire for 18" rims is expensive. The Dunlops weighed in at over $200 each. The Yokohamas are $173 each. I forget what the treadwear rating on the Dunlops was (either 220 or 280) but I'm expecting longer wear from the Yokohamas (320). All are rated A for dry traction and A for wet traction.
Three years ago I had a choice of 4 tires in my size (255/45 18) and now I found nearly 20. But they're all ultra-high performance and therefore ultra-high price.
After I've run the Yokohamas a few miles I'll post a report.
Igor
You will provide us with great detailed photos of your wood trim installation won't you
Yes, it is intimidating, but if you get the parts really warm, and peel the backing as you go, it is pretty easy.
Good luck!
May I know which rims you guy got or getting? Scott points out that there are rims for front wheel drive car to avoid using spacers and/or adapter plates which may cause problems with drivability and handeling. I assume most after market rims are dedicated for rear wheel drive and finding front wheel drive rims not easy. Those suggested by TireRack doesn't has enough info.
Blonda, haven't heard your performance finding with the K&N Air Charger yet.
Thank you for all the posts in here.
Mike
That's what he said to me when my Joshua Tree replacement parts arrived...."what did you buy now?"
300Kam - I put in the charger only about 2 weeks after I had the duals installed so is a little hard for me to differentiate between the two, but I think since I put in the charger I notice a little more torque than with just the duals. I had the drop-in K&N filter prior to that which also made a slight difference, so the added performance with the charger isn't as great as it would be if I had been using the OEM filter.
Next step is the Bosch Plugs which I have been carrying around in my trunk for about 2 months (that doesn't count as an install does it?). My father said he'd put them in for me next time I see him as he has the tools and stuff. (plus I'm afraid to do anything myself that doesn't come with instructions and pictures).
Mike
1. At each plug, there is a small connector that you pinch to disconnect the the wire leading to the plug boot. Once the wire is disconnected...
2.Use the appropriate size torx socket to remove the two long screws that hold the spark plug coil/boot in place. Once the screws are loose, a gentle pull on the top of the boot, and it slides up and out of the way. Then...
3.Use the 5/8 spark plug socket to remove the spark plug.
4. Make sure you buy some spark plug anti-seize compound at the auto parts store to put on the plug threads of the new plug. The Bosch+4 plugs do not require gapping.
5. Assembly is the reverse of removal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the plug when putting in.
If this explanation makes it worse instead of better, I can clarify further.
Good Luck