Recently, last week, when I was going through the papers for Christine's lease, I noticed at the bottom of the contract, there was a DISPOSITION FEE of $275.00 that I had to pay to Chrysler for God knows what reason!! Now, according to a booklet that I received from Chrysler Financial a long time ago, it states "Disposition Fee NONE". Like a dummy, I thought the "customer service" number could help me with this problem and get this fee waived considering that Christine had over $3,300 worth of warranty work done on her in less then 3 years. In addition, I thought that all the extra miles put on Christine running to the dealer, them testing the car, using my gas and wasting my time should be taken into some kind of consideration since I never got so much as a free oil change. Anyway, the "customer service" guy said that Chrysler never waives that fee. If they do it for me, they'd have to do it for everyone. I told him what the booklet said that I had from Chrysler, but he didn't care. I told him that we'll see what Detroit has to say about this. He could care less.
A little while ago I called the number that I had for the corporate offices in Auburn Hills that I used a long time ago when I needed their help with that FIRST idiot factory rep. Of course, no one who worked there several years ago is still there. LOL... The lady I spoke to was VERY nice. They ALWAYS were- very sympathic and apologetic. I gave her my name and all the other vital info as well as my VIN number. I told her that they could look up my car BEFORE someone called me back so that they would know that I wasn't making ANY of this nonsense up.
She said that she would refer the problem to someone and have them call me back. I asked if they would call today. She said there is usually a 24 hour turnaround time. I just said-oh. Of course in about 10 minutes talking to her, I filled her in on my 3 years of aggravation. She must have felt sorry for me. Within 10 minutes, someone with some authority called me back. I explained everything to her. She said she would check into it and get back to me. Again, within minutes, she called me back and said that the $275.00 fee was being waived and that IF I did get a bill from Chrysler I was to call her back and she would take care of it.
She, too, apologized for all the grief and aggravation that I endured. Sometimes, I REALLY don't think that Auburn Hills knows what it's REALLY like on a day to day basis dealing with their "5-STAR" dealers/factory reps although she did kind of hint that they are getting a lot of complaints.
Just wanted to keep everyone informed. Even when Christine is gone, I have grief.
BEACH15- HANG IN THERE! There is light at the end of the tunnel when you get rid of her! ;-))
I don't know. I still am not clear on where this shrinkage is. Or what it looks like. I wish someone would post a pic of the area to look at. I looked at mine, I do not see daylight with the door closed. I have no air coming out, or into the door. The car is still at the dealer. No word on it yet. Funny thing, when I sarted it up at work to drive to the dealer, I could shift gears. The tranny light was still on, but the car drove fine. In fact it shifted the best it ever did. Weird. I understand edmunds concerns. But to delete a post that is purely 300M related, & a problem at that, for one word that is used everyday without any problem, and them email me 8 hours later telling me this is just stupid.I would really like to know how they go about decideing what's ok, & what's not.
I couldn't get the garage door opener to work on a constant basis. Turns out the is a TBS that pertains to the antenna. 5 star found it and replaced the antenna. As for the weather-stripping, the car in the shop as we speak. Seems the 2001 product is much better than what was being used according to the 5 star.
Thanks for the reply on the use of Z6. Sounds good for after-wash care. I have been using Maguiars car wash soap, but believe I'll switch to Zaino just in case the Maguiars is not as gentle on the wax job. The Zaino tire gloss has really held up well for several months. Applied two more coats just for cosmetic reasons.
I need to call the local Zaino rep and order Z6 and Car Wash. I still have enough Z2 for another coat. That will make 5 applications from one bottle. Not too bad considering the quality.
My wife is overdue for a new minivan. I will give it the full new car prep with Zaino.
That's an interesting comment you made about your car when you said "In fact it shifted the best it ever did."
It'll be most interesting what you find out.
By the way, there's a censure free forum at The Consummate 300M Pages. About the only way a post could be edited (never deleted) would be to personally attack or degrade an individual.
I hadn't even considered using the Z-5 to clean up my wife's 96 Grand Caravan! LOL. The paint is lightly faded and has lots of swirl marks and imperfections that don't clean up well. It's not very shiny at all. I'll take some before/after pictures. Might end up being Sal's poster child.
One more thing. While reading my manual last night I noticed that almost everything that I could program using the 01 luxury group computer (lights flashing & horn beeping with lock, etc.) I could also manually program by pushing various controls in specific patterns. For example, one of them (I forgot which) would have you push a dash button and the "slide seat forward" switch at the same time. I know several people in here wondered if some of these things could be programmed manually - it appears they can. Check your manuals, and if you don't find it, I can post what they say to do with my 01.
sdmike2 and titanman--Now that you have the wheels looking good take a look at the spoilers at www.dawn/ent.com. My Ziebart dealer has used them a lot, and put one of their spoilers on my Platinum 99. The paint job was better than factory in quality. It adds a touch of understated elegance. Really would spruce up the new ride at a very reasonable price. Took my Ziebart man about 1/2 hour to install.
After listening to both Beach15 and Fastdriver's diatribes I am not sure of their cars being being siblings, but I am pretty sure they were seperated at birth.
It requires some light sanding to clean the mold flash, then ready to prime & paint. I took mine to my friendly body guy and got him to paint and install it for $100.
Own a 2000 dodge intrepid, have the intake and exhaust mod done based on the great information from your posts. Asked the dealer what the cranny pump would cost, they said about $90.00. Had it done. When they wrote up the work order I told them I had read that the correct fluid was AFT+4 type 9606, k. After the service I asked the service etch what fluid he used he said AFT+3. I said is that correct, he said that is what the service manual said, also informed the service manager that I was concerned about this, same-old, same-old response. Then he asked me what I was quoted on the service I said $90 from you, he said the parts are just $90 without the labor, so. We agreed on $130 half of the labor, AL, get quotes in writing. The source for AFT+4 9606 is from all par are there any others? I want the best fluid for my car, if I have to spend more per quart fine. I am still going to mail or call the dealership after I have more fluid information and checking my dipstick label. If it came with ATF+4, this is what I replaced.
Mods for this spring, new tires Bridgestone Potenza RE730. Cross-drilled rotors for the front with new pads, and checking on installing the larger sway bars from the R/T.
Reviewing the 1999 Service Manual, Page 21-17, Fluid/Filter Service (Recommended), Step 5 reads as follows...."Pour four quarts of Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 through the dipstick opening." Use of ATF+4 is again mentioned twice on page 21-18 and probably other places.
ATF+3 is what my 1994 Dodge Ram takes. I was told by my trusted Transmission mechanic that in either 1998 or 1999 Chrysler switched from ATF+3 to ATF+4 across the board for the most part.
In any event, I use AmsOil Universal Synthetic ATF in my car and truck without any problems. It is exceeds all requirements for the entire ATF+ line (ATF+ through ATF+4). I had mine powerflushed and 15 qts of the AmsOil fluid pushed in to be sure all the old stuff was replaced 100%. I had 4000 miles on the car at the time.
Service Schedule A does not mention changing the fluid, but schedule B shows a change at 48,000. AmsOil is designed to last 3 times longer than petroleum, so change could be indefinite or 142,000 depending on your schedule.
For me, it will last all 5 years until I get that 300N Hemi..
My advice would be to trade the car in, even if it only has 1k miles on it. I've heard of some perfect crash repairs but many, many more horror stories. Avoid the possible squeaks and rattles now while you can. I should know, I've never wrecked or driven my M hard and it rattles, creaks, vibrates, and is very, very noisy. But then again, everyone here thinks that I just have a really bad example of the so-called "magnificent" 300M.
I'd like to post pics of the shrunken weatherstripping for everyone to see but my camera isn't working. Lately, I just noticed the sunlight coming in between the door and strip when the driver's door is opened. All four of the doors have bad weatherstripping that hangs down. I don't think that any air or water is getting in--yet!
Strangest of all, I still like this car to an extent and would consider taking a new replacement 300M if it was offered (they would really, really have to beg me though and they would have to be very nice about it!!) If they could just take my car for a little while, send it back to Chrylser (like they'd want to do anything to make me, their customer, happy), provide me with a loaner, and fix the things that are wrong (in a sense, reconditioning the car with only 6,800 miles on it), I would be a happy camper. Mainly, it's not what is wrong with the car now, but I worry what it will be like in the long-term (60-month loan!!)
Well, that's it for now. Oh yeah, if so many people are having trouble with the oil drainage plug, there is clearly a problem. I, with one of the most problamatic M's made, have absolutely no problems with this plug. I have changed the oil myself twice already with no trouble--well, other than trying to get to that darn oil filter!
I got a pair of vice grips. Used a pair of large pliers to help clamping the vice grips on the nut. Still, when I try to twist, the drain plug crumbles but does not give.
Mine was tight but came with a little elbow grease. I do notice that the dealers tend to over tighten and over fill the bolts and fluids. Still no problems with mine, which is surprizing with all the extra wiring if have done to it.
While we are on the subject of tightening plugs, nuts and bolts, watch out when you change radiator fluid as well. A month ago I had my 99 in to change the oil and the radiator fluid, and both areas were leaking after the service. It took the 5* two more tries to get the dripping radiator fluid to stop. They were going to change out the radiator!!! when I discovered that they had not changed the 5 cent o-ring on the plastic plug when they drained the radiator. I can't confirm, but they said the whole dang thing was plastic, and if this plug won't seal we have to replace the whole radiator. Well, the new o-ring did seal, and strangely enough a new gasket stopped the oil filter from leaking as well. So my feeling is, don't change anything til you have to, and check the garage floor til you're sure that all the seals and gaskets have been changed or properly seated. Can't wait til they get a shot at my transmission. Yow.
sdmike2 & titanman--If you go with a spoiler, note that even tho they are not heavy, they change the weight dynamics on the trunk lid enough that you don't have to do any "slamming" to get it to close. I let mine go from about 8" up and it closes by the weight of momentum. I always caution the 5* service rep when it is in for a 5 tire rotation to make sure the tech does not slam the trunk lid. So far so good. My platinum 99 is in today for some work. I have a shop putting on the half chrome tinting that is now in vogue. Starts at the bottom of the window and blends to the normal grey tint about a third of the way up the glass. Think it will look really good with the platinum color car. We shall see.
Drill my friend drill. If you want to take a drive, You can take it to my co-workers garage. It's on the corner of 441/Copans road. In margate. It's the Mobil station on the corner. Close to that casino. They can take care of it.
I was going to suggest that! Had a neighbor who was afflicted and the resemblence is uncanny.
Gas mileage. If I baby it I have been getting around 22.5, 50/50 driving, or as high as 25 on a highway trip. if I have fun it is 20 per mile. If I have a lot of fun I have been as low as 18.5!
With the weather improving here in the north, I am thinking my mileage should go up without the cold starts.
Still don't know anything on my 300M. Called dealer yesterday, & was told they were still tracking down the problem. I was told it is not the tranny. They are looking at the sensors & computer now. I also decided to bring up the distance problem with the remote. They siad the replced the antenna, & remotes, as per TSB. ALso have had an alightment problem with the passanger side of the hood. There'a a big gap, out of spec between the hood, & the front fender. Still don't knoe if that was fixed yet. I guess we will see if my 4.5 star dealer gets there 5* rating.
I would drill both ways. Then you could put needle nose vise grips in both holes(one side in 1 hole the other side in the other), & turn it off. Of course if there is oil in it, you will get it all over the place.
Yeah, that is correct, but when I reviewed the owner's manual I thought I read "change every two years" [which I think used to be the standard deal]and when I talked to the service rep, she--yes, she--said they recommended every two years. Then, low and behold, the tech, who definitely should have known, opened the drain and realized, too late, that it was the red stuff--good for five years and 100K. She called me at work and said "Gee, we made a mistake on the radiator fluid, you had 100K stuff in there, but we didn't realize it til it was too late. Since the old stuff got lost when he opened the plug, and they admitted that they should have known or checked before draining, even if I was too dumb to know about the good "red" stuff, they split the cost with me on the refill. I wouldn't have had any qualms about changing at two years anyway, except that stuff costs a lot more than the old antifreeze. I only got real concerned when they couldn't get the plug to seal, and started talking about replacing a perfectly good radiator. Another lesson learned. Read the book carefully and then read it again every six months if you are my age. [59 in 3 days]
The poor Baron must be turning over in his grave! I thought "Munchausenism" was a tendency to over-exaggerate in a glorious way as the Baron did in the movie. When did it become a "syndrome" associated with the exaggeration of medical ailments?
I am wondering if anyone is using or has used the Garmin Street Pilot III with their M? The new III is deeper than the older Street Pilot or Street Pilot color. I would think that the huge dash of the M would work great for the III. I have found the new III for $770 and it has gotten great reviews. It has similar features of in-car systems that cost 2k-3k. Here is a online review http://www.gpsinformation.net/spiii/sp3review.htm
I have the Eibach Pro-kit springs installed on my car. They've been on since last April, or about 14k miles. I have read on this forum and others that Eibach discontinued the kit due to problems with the drive train. Needless to say, this caused me a bit of concern. Am I doing any damage to my car?
Today I phoned Eibach and discussed the issue with one of their people. "Yes, " he said, "we discontinued those springs because of a problem in the drive train."
"Could you be more specific? What kind of problem," I asked.
"There was a vibration. We sold a lot of those springs and about half the buyers complained about a vibration." He then reassured me that since I am not experiencing the vibration there is no reason to switch back to the stock springs.
Right or wrong, I come to the conclusion that there is no "drive train problem" with lowering springs. Installing lower (read "stiffer") springs will magnify any existing problem the car has regarding vibration. Does this sound familiar to anybody here?
We've had discussions about wheels and/or tires being the cause of shakes and shimmies. There are several theories out there and I'm not convinced which one is the cause. But I am confident there is no problem adding lowering springs to this car as long as you don't have any other vibration problems.
That seems correct. Just because you lower a car using different springs it should not cause vibrations. Like you said. I bet most of the complaints are from people with the non php 300M, with the goodyear tires.
This is maybe a long shot but worth a try. I bought my wood dash trim from Custom Auto Trim (kit SP860). Well, one of the more challenged dudes at the local car wash managed to scratch the shifter trim with jewelry, gritty rag, or something. Anyway, I'm faced with replacing that piece. I have a perfect shifter trim piece for the 2000/01 models that was included in the kit. Anyone with a spare '99 piece want to swap? -Russ
Just ordered my Z6 and Z7 (Gloss enhancer and wash lotion) and more Z1, Z2 and clay bars for my wife's soon to be purchased minivan. Zaino has set up a local distributor in the Dallas area. He will deliver or ship overnight. If you live in the area, here is his contact info. Steve is very responsive and courteous. His demo car is a Viper with a claimed 40 coats of polish. Contact: Steve Pasztor ZAINO - Authorized Distributor P.O. Box 885 Allen, TX 75013 Cell 972-743-9443 e-mail snkman@flash.net
We former SHO owners religiously changed the coolant at least every 2 years. The coolant would get very acidic and then the heater core would fail. It's $600-$800 job to replace the heater core on the first set of Taurus', and still a big job in the current model.
Not sure what this means regarding the Chrysler. But if you intend to keep the car for several years, you might want to keep the engine coolant fresh.
Malyel, where do you buy such a thing? Looks great! Would it be too big to use on the smaller dash of a Maxima? Does the screen part fold down when you're not using it, or do you have to just remove it from the dash? In other words how permanent is the installation?
(Sorry if this is off-topic to the 300M - I considered buying an M and I still read these boards from time to time.)
Ironicaly he has a 2000 maxima se. I curently have the Garmin gps 3+. It's made more for hiking and off roading than the street pilot 3. It still has a good base map and with the cd's I can download specific regions if I need to. It even has a nice green backlighting that at night matches the 300m's dash. I take my gps everywhere and it realy helps out. I even used it in London in a taxi when I thought that the cab driver was taking me for a longer trip. The street pilot is not an in dash system. It does share many of the features of in dash units though including voice given directions. It does have a dash mount but it is made to be taken in and out of your car. This is good though if you travel a bunch because can use it in rental cars. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I seem to recall... I think it was in a write up for the 300M Project car that http://www.socalspeedshop.com was doing, that they too had problems when they lowered their 300M. Something about the lowering affecting front end mechanical component geometry.
I went to their website and couldn't find anything but they're in the process of revamping the site. You might try some of the names at socalspeedshop and see if they'll talk about what they found.
Interesting capitalization of the word next. Do you have a little black box on your desktop by any chance? Springs-Rick beat me to it. I was also going to mention that lowering the car could affect the drive axle geometry. I know that this is a stupid comparison, but it works nonetheless. I have a nice little remote control Team Losi buggy with the cool little liquid filled shocks with variable pistons and springs on the outside to cushion the blows. Normally, the axles on the back leave the differential and connect to the wheels at a 45 or so degree angle. I can put front springs on the back shocks (lowering the car so that the axles are horizontal), and create a vibration. not much of one, but noticeable.They are designed to perform optimally at a certain range of angles, but not at that angle constantly. Could be similar to the M. All you nit-pickers out there, don't take my comparison literally, I'm just putting it out there to make you go hmmmmmm!
Nothing like a few days in a crappy rental car (in this case an Altima) to make you appreciate the 300M. What a difference.
Had my first tranny flush done (at 16.5K miles) - hope this tranny lasts longer than my Dodge v8 van did. Had to replace the tranny at 40K.
Had them (attempt to) fix a sticky driver's window and a water leak into the trunk too.
They just said the weatherstripping was a bit dry, and put some lubricant on it. Didn't do squat for the problem.
They said the trunk leak was caused by a poor weld seal in the rear passenger door. They had to remove the door panel, and the glass to get to the seal. Had to hold it an extra day because they had to glue the glass back onto the rail. Had a quick look and the panel appeared to be ok - wanted to check given all the comments about broken tabs on doors when they were removed.
Most disconcerting part was finding a piece of broken off paint (about half a thumbnail size). Looked, but I couldn't see where it came from.
Comments
A little while ago I called the number that I had for the corporate offices in Auburn Hills that I used a long time ago when I needed their help with that FIRST idiot factory rep. Of course, no one who worked there several years ago is still there. LOL... The lady I spoke to was VERY nice. They ALWAYS were- very sympathic and apologetic. I gave her my name and all the other vital info as well as my VIN number. I told her that they could look up my car BEFORE someone called me back so that they would know that I wasn't making ANY of this nonsense up.
She said that she would refer the problem to someone and have them call me back. I asked if they would call today. She said there is usually a 24 hour turnaround time. I just said-oh. Of course in about 10 minutes talking to her, I filled her in on my 3 years of aggravation. She must have felt sorry for me. Within 10 minutes, someone with some authority called me back. I explained everything to her. She said she would check into it and get back to me. Again, within minutes, she called me back and said that the $275.00 fee was being waived and that IF I did get a bill from Chrysler I was to call her back and she would take care of it.
She, too, apologized for all the grief and aggravation that I endured. Sometimes, I REALLY don't think that Auburn Hills knows what it's REALLY like on a day to day basis dealing with their "5-STAR" dealers/factory reps although she did kind of hint that they are getting a lot of complaints.
Just wanted to keep everyone informed. Even when Christine is gone, I have grief.
BEACH15- HANG IN THERE! There is light at the end of the tunnel when you get rid of her! ;-))
fastdriver
I need to call the local Zaino rep and order Z6 and Car Wash. I still have enough Z2 for another coat. That will make 5 applications from one bottle. Not too bad considering the quality.
My wife is overdue for a new minivan. I will give it the full new car prep with Zaino.
Regards, Silver
It'll be most interesting what you find out.
By the way, there's a censure free forum at The Consummate 300M Pages. About the only way a post could be edited (never deleted) would be to personally attack or degrade an individual.
Rick
One more thing. While reading my manual last night I noticed that almost everything that I could program using the 01 luxury group computer (lights flashing & horn beeping with lock, etc.) I could also manually program by pushing various controls in specific patterns. For example, one of them (I forgot which) would have you push a dash button and the "slide seat forward" switch at the same time. I know several people in here wondered if some of these things could be programmed manually - it appears they can. Check your manuals, and if you don't find it, I can post what they say to do with my 01.
-M
Thanks
Try the same URL and substitute a dash for the slash.
Also try these guys. I got my spoiler from them. They now have a second style available (2 pylon, mine has 3).
http://www.spoilers4less.com/bspoilersb3.html
It requires some light sanding to clean the mold flash, then ready to prime & paint. I took mine to my friendly body guy and got him to paint and install it for $100.
Mods for this spring, new tires Bridgestone Potenza RE730. Cross-drilled rotors for the front with new pads, and checking on installing the larger sway bars from the R/T.
Later,
ATF+3 is what my 1994 Dodge Ram takes. I was told by my trusted Transmission mechanic that in either 1998 or 1999 Chrysler switched from ATF+3 to ATF+4 across the board for the most part.
In any event, I use AmsOil Universal Synthetic ATF in my car and truck without any problems. It is exceeds all requirements for the entire ATF+ line (ATF+ through ATF+4). I had mine powerflushed and 15 qts of the AmsOil fluid pushed in to be sure all the old stuff was replaced 100%. I had 4000 miles on the car at the time.
Service Schedule A does not mention changing the fluid, but schedule B shows a change at 48,000. AmsOil is designed to last 3 times longer than petroleum, so change could be indefinite or 142,000 depending on your schedule.
For me, it will last all 5 years until I get that 300N Hemi..
Sdmike2, send me a ticket to get to Aruba and I'll forgive you abandoning me in Antartica.
I'd like to post pics of the shrunken weatherstripping for everyone to see but my camera isn't working. Lately, I just noticed the sunlight coming in between the door and strip when the driver's door is opened. All four of the doors have bad weatherstripping that hangs down. I don't think that any air or water is getting in--yet!
Strangest of all, I still like this car to an extent and would consider taking a new replacement 300M if it was offered (they would really, really have to beg me though and they would have to be very nice about it!!) If they could just take my car for a little while, send it back to Chrylser (like they'd want to do anything to make me, their customer, happy), provide me with a loaner, and fix the things that are wrong (in a sense, reconditioning the car with only 6,800 miles on it), I would be a happy camper. Mainly, it's not what is wrong with the car now, but I worry what it will be like in the long-term (60-month loan!!)
Well, that's it for now. Oh yeah, if so many people are having trouble with the oil drainage plug, there is clearly a problem. I, with one of the most problamatic M's made, have absolutely no problems with this plug. I have changed the oil myself twice already with no trouble--well, other than trying to get to that darn oil filter!
Sdmike2, send me a ticket to get to Aruba and I'll forgive you abandoning me in Antartica.
"But then again, everyone here thinks that I just have a really bad example of the so-called "magnificent" 300M." I don't think so!!!
Race
I got a pair of vice grips. Used a pair of large pliers to help clamping the vice grips on the nut. Still, when I try to twist, the drain plug crumbles but does not give.
Still no problems with mine, which is surprizing with all the extra wiring if have done to it.
sdmike2 & titanman--If you go with a spoiler, note that even tho they are not heavy, they change the weight dynamics on the trunk lid enough that you don't have to do any "slamming" to get it to close. I let mine go from about 8" up and it closes by the weight of momentum. I always caution the 5* service rep when it is in for a 5 tire rotation to make sure the tech does not slam the trunk lid. So far so good. My platinum 99 is in today for some work. I have a shop putting on the half chrome tinting that is now in vogue. Starts at the bottom of the window and blends to the normal grey tint about a third of the way up the glass. Think it will look really good with the platinum color car. We shall see.
Gas mileage. If I baby it I have been getting around 22.5, 50/50 driving, or as high as 25 on a highway trip. if I have fun it is 20 per mile. If I have a lot of fun I have been as low as 18.5!
With the weather improving here in the north, I am thinking my mileage should go up without the cold starts.
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OR
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I did the latter one hoping to be able to stick something through the whole and use as a lever, but could not find anything hard enough.
R.I.P. Baron von Munchausen!
Today I phoned Eibach and discussed the issue with one of their people. "Yes, " he said, "we discontinued those springs because of a problem in the drive train."
"Could you be more specific? What kind of problem," I asked.
"There was a vibration. We sold a lot of those springs and about half the buyers complained about a vibration." He then reassured me that since I am not experiencing the vibration there is no reason to switch back to the stock springs.
Right or wrong, I come to the conclusion that there is no "drive train problem" with lowering springs. Installing lower (read "stiffer") springs will magnify any existing problem the car has regarding vibration. Does this sound familiar to anybody here?
We've had discussions about wheels and/or tires being the cause of shakes and shimmies. There are several theories out there and I'm not convinced which one is the cause. But I am confident there is no problem adding lowering springs to this car as long as you don't have any other vibration problems.
-Russ
ZAINO - Authorized Distributor
P.O. Box 885
Allen, TX 75013
Cell 972-743-9443
e-mail snkman@flash.net
Not sure what this means regarding the Chrysler. But if you intend to keep the car for several years, you might want to keep the engine coolant fresh.
f
(Sorry if this is off-topic to the 300M - I considered buying an M and I still read these boards from time to time.)
http://www.onlinemarine.com
Ironicaly he has a 2000 maxima se. I curently have the Garmin gps 3+. It's made more for hiking and off roading than the street pilot 3. It still has a good base map and with the cd's I can download specific regions if I need to. It even has a nice green backlighting that at night matches the 300m's dash. I take my gps everywhere and it realy helps out. I even used it in London in a taxi when I thought that the cab driver was taking me for a longer trip. The street pilot is not an in dash system. It does share many of the features of in dash units though including voice given directions. It does have a dash mount but it is made to be taken in and out of your car. This is good though if you travel a bunch because can use it in rental cars. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I went to their website and couldn't find anything but they're in the process of revamping the site. You might try some of the names at socalspeedshop and see if they'll talk about what they found.
Then again, I could be imaging things.
There's also a little more info about this at The Consummate 300M Forum.
Rick
Unfortunately I won't be able to make it. Sorry everyone! See you there NeXT Week though!
-m
Springs-Rick beat me to it. I was also going to mention that lowering the car could affect the drive axle geometry. I know that this is a stupid comparison, but it works nonetheless. I have a nice little remote control Team Losi buggy with the cool little liquid filled shocks with variable pistons and springs on the outside to cushion the blows. Normally, the axles on the back leave the differential and connect to the wheels at a 45 or so degree angle. I can put front springs on the back shocks (lowering the car so that the axles are horizontal), and create a vibration. not much of one, but noticeable.They are designed to perform optimally at a certain range of angles, but not at that angle constantly. Could be similar to the M. All you nit-pickers out there, don't take my comparison literally, I'm just putting it out there to make you go hmmmmmm!
Had my first tranny flush done (at 16.5K miles) - hope this tranny lasts longer than my Dodge v8 van did. Had to replace the tranny at 40K.
Had them (attempt to) fix a sticky driver's window and a water leak into the trunk too.
They just said the weatherstripping was a bit dry, and put some lubricant on it. Didn't do squat for the problem.
They said the trunk leak was caused by a poor weld seal in the rear passenger door. They had to remove the door panel, and the glass to get to the seal. Had to hold it an extra day because they had to glue the glass back onto the rail. Had a quick look and the panel appeared to be ok - wanted to check given all the comments about broken tabs on doors when they were removed.
Most disconcerting part was finding a piece of broken off paint (about half a thumbnail size). Looked, but I couldn't see where it came from.
Complete with the 300mclub webpage loaded, just for y'all to see what it looks like on a 1990 computer
-m