A good friend has a machine shop and made me a cam for my 300M, which they installed a month ago. I waited to post the results, to give a though testing of the new cam. I have put on 2 thousand miles on it to date, and it is really tight, not a single leak or drip. The preformance increase is about 0.15 0-60 time from the stock engine. It did give me a slight 11 hp increase to 281 at the wheels it was 270 (it is hard to get more accurate numbers because of the limiter)before. It runs better on 89 octane gas then the 87 I was using before, probably due to a litter higher compression. As a stand alone project I probably wouldn't do it very expensive to tear down an engine and machine a new cam. Because of the work done on the engine it is kind of weard seeing only 2K on the odometer. I guess rule #1 is never leaving your vehicle with a bounch of old racing buddies.
I noticed in the other writeup that the stock resonator gave some vibration/resonation problems at around 2,000 RPM, and that's why the design switched to the Magnaflow. Did you try it with stock first or go straight with the Magnaflow for your resonator? Also, do you have any idea if Rhino makes a similar muffler that changes the configuration to allow the input from the passenger side and both outputs on the driver's side? That would allow me to run single 2 1/2 to two chrome tips in the existing cutout...yet maintain what sounds like a great system. I'm hoping that I get a small HP boost (5-8), a couple MPG on the highway, and a nice "level 3" sound that maintains the luxurious setup but with a little more throat to her. That combined with the K&N filter should work out nicely.
My buddy has a flowmaster on his 5.7 liter LS1 Camaro SS and it is definately a "what the hell was that" level. Then again, he's got 3 inch pipes and ONLY the flowmaster and cat between that 5.7 and the exhaust.
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate the help from people who have gone through this.
I recieved my new K&N air filter to day, I will be doing some more experiments with some new ideas I have, which I will post later. Also got my new 01 tail lights in today and will be installing them later this week. I am rewiring them so that all three lights preform the same functions. I always disliked the way the center one just sat there. I may even try to make the turn signals sequental. All I can say is if I ever trade in this car it is going to take me a month to take off all the mods and restore it to orginal condition.
Can you tell me what mods you made to that exhaust? I see you still have a muffler back by the tips, unlike the other setup that Roger and Michael have used. Did you replace the center muffler or the resonator, or did you just put something less restrictive down by the end?
Michael - Read back on my exhaust questions. I see you have a pretty good writeup on your page that describes what was done and what the issues were. Seems you settled on the magnaflow and the rhino with the resonator tips. I'm leaning towards running both pipes out the existing cutout instead of "dualing" it, so I'm hoping Rhino has a setup that will work. Any other information you could provide me would be great. Like, how big of a difference was there between the tips with and without the resonator? I'm not sure what Roger ended up installing (Roger?) for tips, but I like the idea of a "level 3" growl as he describes it, rather than a loud M.
The stock resonater was tried first. Later it was replaced with the Magnaflow. You still get a slight resonance with the Magnaflow, but far less then with the stock collector. The Rhino site is http://www.jpchuth.com . If I keep this car (not trade it for a 02), I will add the extra muffler to get rid if the resonance.
the Rhino site is http://www.ipchuth.com and they show what's available. Go to Performance Mufflers and click on the big muffler for their spec line up.
I went straight with the Magnaflow. There is also a small Magnaflow you can add behind the collector that quiets it down a little more. I can get the part number if you like. I didn't use it because I'm very happy with mine just the way it is.
If you put the second muffler on it you would have essentially just swapped out the collector and mufflers with higher throughput models...as opposed to taking parts out of the system? Oh, and running 5 inches of pipe out of the muffler as opposed to 2 1/5. If you sound like a Camaro you're too loud for my liking. I'm hoping for a few DBs, not much more.
A part number would be great. I'm assuming you used the stock 2 1/2 pipe that runs from the collector to the Rhino. I guess this second one would have to be cut in. Have you experienced the resonation issue that Michael mentioned? I had a big resonation problem on another car because of a loose cowling and a rusted inner pipe (weld came loose on one end) and I HATED it. I guess the nice thing about exhaust systems is that you can always have them change stuff...all it takes it a torch! by the way, what tips did you put on yours? Do they have resonator ends?
I'm looking at the Rhino site and it looks like the 925 is set up for what I would need. It appears to have a single 2 1/2 in (shown on the left, but I'm sure you can flip it) and 2 of them out on the same side. It says it's for a Ford truck, but at the top they say just look for the dimensions because the mufflers are reversable. My guess is that DOESN'T mean that I could use the 921 and run the input into the output on the single side, and use the output and input on the other side as output. )
This is like a puzzle..you have to put the right parts together to get a pretty picture. Roger & Michael...where did you get your mufflers and tips? The Rhino site doesn't say how to get them.
Thanks again...I'll stop this thread soon. I promise.
I can't remember who was confused on which fluid to use, but..
Back on April 03, 2001 I made this post....
Reviewing the 1999 Service Manual, Page 21-17, Fluid/Filter Service (Recommended), Step 5 reads as follows...."Pour four quarts of Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 through the dipstick opening." Use of ATF+4 is again mentioned twice on page 21-18 and probably other places.
Use any fluid that is ATF+4 or equivalent, not ATF+3.
That might be true. I'm in south FL, & do not have this problem. It never get's below 40 down here, & it's in the 80's now. What worries me is when I move back to NYC in the summer, & then have this problem occur in the winter up there.
I have the exact orginal setup. No changes. The rihno 921, & the magaflow. Had it for over a year now. Been very happy. It's not loud, sounds good, & no weird noises.
I used to have a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Its steering wheel was quite tight, but it was always eager to center itself after a turn.
When I started driving my 300M with PHP (wife drove it while I had my GTP), I noticed that when I make a sharp turn, the steering wheel is not in a hurry to return to the center position.
Ruts or road imperfections throw my 300M off course a little bit. Nothing dramatic but it can surprise someone who is not paying attention. Certainly more than when I drove my GTP.
It got a bit annoying when they were doing road work around here and stripped a layer of asphalt right where my M's right wheel would go. Half of the wheel is on old pavement and the other half is over the stripped area.
I would say that 300M PHP's steering is designed this way. It gives you a better feel of the road and lets you turn better than most FWD cars (just like in airplanes F-16 or Mig-29 or Su-27 are supermaneuvarable jet fighters but at the same time they are dynamically unstable, they have to be unstable in order to be so maneuverable)
when i decelerate from say about 40-50 to stop, there seem to be a bit of a shimmy at the steering wheel. is this normal? have other's had this same experience?
oh, and while i'm at it, i wanna praise my 5 star dealer northtown chrysler in amherst. i found one of my wheel caps popped off. called the parts and it was $17/per cap. the service manager replaced it for free.
probably under warranty but may be not. anyhow, i thought it was a really nice thing to have done.
The reason I asked about ATF+4 vs ATF+3 for MY 99, was because I had my 99 300M tranny fluid changed by the dealer service dept at 30K miles back in January and just a couple days ago, checked my service record for it and noticed the paperwork said they used ATF+3.
Should I take it back and have them flush the ATF+3 and put in ATF+4? Maybe this'd get rid of the imprecise shifting issue I've always had.
Have you had any brake work done recently?? If the shimmy happens while you're applying the brakes, it's almost certainly a warped rotor or a bad spot on the rotor. Turning the rotors should fix the problem.
Here is the Borla system. I think it's available $50 cheaper than this from Summit Racing. People who have installed it reported a noticeable drone. That can be fixed by adding annular venturi tubes (available from Borla) inside the pipes.
This is the place (Husker) I got my Magnaflow collector muffler and Borla tips from. The tips are Borla #20233, the Magnaflow collector is # 12258. Nice folks to deal with. Those Borla tips I got broke the bank, but the first time I saw them I was a goner, just hadda' have 'em.
Just verified on the ipchuth site and all the Rhino mufflers are reversible. That being said, you should be able to flip the 921 and run one input on the right side and 2 outputs on the left side. You should be able to use the JC Whitney mandrel bent elbows on the outputs to get the pipes aligned side by side to run back to the valance opening. A bit tricky perhaps, but it could be done.
300-You're close to dethroning Scotian as the 300M mod king!! ;-)
Weatherstripping-It was 89 yesterday and is supposed to be 90+ here today in the Deep South. I'm worried about my weatherstripping MELTING!!! ;-) Thank goodness for that fantastic AC!!!
Thanks. I saw that the Rhinos were reversible, but I thought maybe that meant you could flip them, not run the exhaust through the holes the opposite ways. I thought maybe that explained the difference between the 921 and the 925...but maybe the difference is one of internal baffling and chambers because the size dimensions are the same. I like your tips too, but I'm not prepared to pay over $100 per tip. that answers my question of the baffling versus non-baffling tips. The borlas are straight through while the Pacesetter Monza's have glass pack resonators on them to mellow out the sound more. I might go that way to avoid dropping a second flowmaster in the loop.
The tone is like the Camaro's not the sound levels. From inside the cabin you will not notice much of a differance, you have to stand near the rear of the car to hear the differance.
There is a 300M headlight I will try to get on -bay so that I can play around with it. If I can get it cheap enough. A month and a half ago I purchased a fog and front parking/turn signal lenses. I did take off the lamp hood and except for two halos that look like lightning bolts her is not really any change in the light pattern. I did change out my fog lights with 100w H3 bulbs a few weeks ago and the bulbs seem to put out a little more light, and do not melt the plastic reflector or lens as of yet anyway. I am thankful to Scotian, He makes me think and comes up some really good ideas. To me he is a kindred spirit and is not afraid to change something to make it better. It is nice to see Chryslers incorporate some of the ideas we have added to our 99's, it seems like they might be looking over some of our posts here.
Thanks again for the information. I like how on the Rhino site they have wav files of different engines with their mufflers. I think I know how I'm going to do this...now it's just a matter of finding the parts and the right shop to do it. I think I'll purchase the mufflers and the tips and let the exhaust shop worry about the pipes and elbows. Seems to me that I'll be able to get out for under $500 total on this set-up if I don't get dual $100 tips Hopefully the K&N plus the exhaust will give me a little more power and gas mileage.
Oh, my wife thinks I'm nuts! The Zaino showed up two days ago, and yesterday I showed up with the hood cover. Tomorrow I get my chrome plate frames, and last night she caught me drawing out an exhaust system. She just shook her head and walked away.
If you didn't already send for your chrome license plate frame, the 5* dealer in Poway sells them. I don't remember how much it was, and I got a discount because I worked at the dealer across the street. It's the same chrome one as someone posted in a picture. FYI. Mike.
I haven't been here in a while; the stress & strains of the market had me concentrating solely on work (what fun!). Just read the last 1000 posts. SDMIKE & all you new M'ers - aren't you glad you did it??! Its a great car if you get a good one. FUZZYWUZZY - glad your ride is OK. I saw you had some tranny trouble but couldn't find the original post (let's not go there). ALL - Sugar always goes out with a full bra on. Like fuzzy, I only take it off when I wash her & have been very satisfied, although this winter road crews have been putting down salt, rocks, sand etc...& I'm getting more pot marks than ever. I tried some touch-up paint (thanks MEMPHIS300M); at least that keeps it Red. EASYRIDER - still trying to make Brookline on 5/6; looks good right now...
Bending the elbows on site can be a problem. Most shops don't have a mandrel tube bender (VERY expensive equipment). The unavoidable result of bending without a mandrel bender is kinking = restriction.
How much kinking is allowable before it affects performance?? I really don't have a clue, but I wanted the best possible outcome, so I went the "safe" way.
Mandrel bent elbows are available from J.C. Whitney, part # 81AS2968Y, currently for $11.49 each. They make the installation MUCH easier than trying to custom bend pipe on site. You can see the elbows and how I used them at: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=934019&a=9266730&p=31566067&f=0
I took my "box of parts" to my local Midas shop and they did a great job for me. My whole system, including the high dollar tips and installation was right at $500. You can easily cut $100 off that with cheaper tips.
If you want the true "duals look" just let me know and I'll pack up my RotoZip and bring it along to Monterey in August. We'll do a "300M Duals 101" clinic and have that right side notch cut in a heartbeat!! (Liberally punctualed with Tim Allen Tool Time grunts, and an occasional "gimme' MORE POWER")
Awesome info as always. I guess they just weld those elbows onto the 2 1/2 pipe to make a clean turn. Makes perfect sense to pay $25 and get them done right. I also see from the Magnaflow web site that Midas here locally is an authorized dealer. I'll check their prices and see if they can also get the Rhino for a good price. If so, I'll just let them buy the stuff.
Sugar - Not a single regret...not even the inevitable temporary buyer's remorse that comes when you sink $30k on a car.
Mike - Thanks for the info. I already ordered my license plate frames and I didn't think to check with Poway since Midway, Rancho and Carl Berger don't carry anything remotely like that. Nice to have so many choices though.
Why is the elbow on the right side turned down lower than the left? Did you have to clear something? Also, did Midas do the cut-out or did you do that yourself?
The clamps weren't tightened yet, hence the reason for the misalignment. Midas wouldn't touch cutting the notch. I did it with my trusty RotoZip on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Sunny Saturday afternoons are rare in Seattle.
I knew it wouldn't take you long to get some "Z" on your new ride.
Looks great!!!!!
For the 300M content....
I've had mine almost 6 months, 7K miles (one of the first '01s in my city). No wind or road noise that other's have spoken about. No squeaks, rattles The Michelin tires are great in both dry and wet (and snow and ice). It doesn't "wander" on the road at all. Handles great and is very quick, not like my GTP, but it has great acceleration in its own right. I have noticed that after about 5K miles, the engine lossened up quite a bit. It's much quicker now than when I first drove it. Getting about 20 MPG in combined mileage and actually got 28 MPG on a road trip driving between 70MPH and 80MPH.
My money is on warped front rotors. If you talk nice, but firmly, your 5* will replace them at Chrysler's expense. I had 2 sets replaced on my '99. Good luck!
Thanks. I COULDN'T wait much longer to get that Zaino on because I knew what she was going to look like. Only 3 coats so far. Not nearly enough yet. Maybe by the time I get back from So. FL, the weather in CT will be better, warmer and SUNNIER!
Ever since I got rid of Christine, I am suddenly seeing more M's around here. I know some people say they see several a day, but I used to only see several a week. Today I saw one just like Christine! LOL... It looked nice. They still get my attention.
Glad you're having good luck with your car. The more you stay away from the "5-STARS", the better off you'll be.
Like you, I have a bit of a steering wheel shake when braking from 40-50mph to a stop. My shake started happening after the 30K service which included rotating the wheels. I took it back in and they rebalanced all my wheels at my cost. This helped quite a bit but the shake is still there a little. I then had one of their mechanics ride with me to verify it and what he said was, it's likely slight rotor warpage and wouldn't cause a problem. He said I had about 25% brake life left, so I could either get new brakes now or wait another 10K miles till they're needed. In either case that'll fix the shake. I opted to wait... hope he's right.
Just FYI, I have some wind noise from the driver's side window on my 01, plus an annoying rattle coming from the passenger side visor area (so it seems). I haven't poked around yet, but it's nothing the Infinity audio system can't handle. I probably won't hear either one once I get the exhaust done.
I called my friendly 5* today about getting the PHG struts. I know the parts manager so most of the time I get pretty good deals. My cost on 4 struts, new stops (there different on the PHG) a new rear trailing arms (stiffer bushings) is $500! Not sure if I want to go through all this or just remove the H&R springs since I am not happy with the return they currently give.
I just had the same problem myself. This is covered under warranty and the dealer will replace them at no charge. And if you ask real nice they will put the new ones in your glove box so it won't happen again! The M looks much cleaner without those Chrysler tags. I also had them remove the one one the rear deck. Be sure to wax the area under the letters or dust will stick and you will see a shadow of the letters.
I think this has been said before on this board, and I fully believe this to be true.
Warped Rotors are caused by lug nuts not properly torqued, actually overtorqued by powerful air driven impact wrenches.
I have my tires rotated at the local car wash/express lube and they use "torque stiks" to tighten the lug nuts. This is a kit of stiks, each different in color, that are coded for a particular torque. Gray is 100 ft/lbs. I use a regular craftsman torque wrench whenever I remove wheels myself.
The spec is 100 ft/lbs.
I've rotated five times in 33K and no warped rotors. Done this with success on other family vehicles as well, except my Dad's jeep. He had some work done at the dealer and when we got the brakes changed at 50K miles, all rotors were warped and could not be turned smooth. I was not happy when they showed the rotors on the lathe and the cutter hitting and missing the surface. Had to buy four rotors.
300mlover - Thanks for the info! I'll do just that -- keep them off the car. If I take the one off the trunk, which I won't, I'll center the 300M shield or put on a wing.
The nuts on the eGroups 300m/lhs list were figuring out what other words I could make with the letters. "MAKE ME V8 RWD" was my favorite suggestion, but I think I need more letters...
After talking with my local dealer by phone, here is the deal on a base model 2001 300M (Saphire Blue with Slate interior): MSRP $30,295.00 with a final price of $25,258.00 plus TT&L. This is for a "GK" lease with a $3000.00 incentive from Chrysler. My CU is happy to payoff the lease and give me a 6.5% 60 month deal if I want it. Are there any downsides to paying the lease off early and doing a straight loan? Is the payoff amount equal to the sales price? I have yet to go to the dealer and crunch the numbers and I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this.
Yes, I would go back and have them change to ATF+4 and quote them the page I mentioned in the 1999 Service Manual.
I think they are trying to save a buck at your expense. Perhaps gain some tranny work down the road. My opinion.
Honestly, I'm not sure what the difference is in the fluid, since Amsoil can make a synthetic that meets/exceeds both standards. (Review previous posts I've made about Amsoil, so I don't have to bore everyone again with my Amsoil diatribes)
Ha Ha Ha....Make Me V8 RWD....I missed that when I was reading my email from the Yahoogroups site.
I bet if mod your car enough, it will soon be a V8 RWD
I mean someone did mention you were the King of mods. When you get your parts and details figured out, let us know. I too want a V8 RWD. Can you do for that issue, what Micheal Hujo did for dual exhaust? If not, we'll just have to trade up for a 300N.
BTW, I really love my clock face. I stare at it everyday thinking, that's so cool.
Comments
Hood Cover on Big Red
My buddy has a flowmaster on his 5.7 liter LS1 Camaro SS and it is definately a "what the hell was that" level. Then again, he's got 3 inch pipes and ONLY the flowmaster and cat between that 5.7 and the exhaust.
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate the help from people who have gone through this.
Mike
Read back on my exhaust questions. I see you have a pretty good writeup on your page that describes what was done and what the issues were. Seems you settled on the magnaflow and the rhino with the resonator tips. I'm leaning towards running both pipes out the existing cutout instead of "dualing" it, so I'm hoping Rhino has a setup that will work. Any other information you could provide me would be great. Like, how big of a difference was there between the tips with and without the resonator? I'm not sure what Roger ended up installing (Roger?) for tips, but I like the idea of a "level 3" growl as he describes it, rather than a loud M.
Mike
I went straight with the Magnaflow. There is also a small Magnaflow you can add behind the collector that quiets it down a little more. I can get the part number if you like. I didn't use it because I'm very happy with mine just the way it is.
Thanks!
Mike
Mike
This is like a puzzle..you have to put the right parts together to get a pretty picture. Roger & Michael...where did you get your mufflers and tips? The Rhino site doesn't say how to get them.
Thanks again...I'll stop this thread soon. I promise.
Back on April 03, 2001 I made this post....
Reviewing the 1999 Service Manual, Page 21-17, Fluid/Filter Service (Recommended), Step 5 reads as follows...."Pour four quarts of Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Type 9602 through the dipstick opening." Use of ATF+4 is again mentioned twice on page 21-18 and probably other places.
Use any fluid that is ATF+4 or equivalent, not ATF+3.
When I started driving my 300M with PHP (wife drove it while I had my GTP), I noticed that when I make a sharp turn, the steering wheel is not in a hurry to return to the center position.
Ruts or road imperfections throw my 300M off course a little bit. Nothing dramatic but it can surprise someone who is not paying attention. Certainly more than when I drove my GTP.
It got a bit annoying when they were doing road work around here and stripped a layer of asphalt right where my M's right wheel would go. Half of the wheel is on old pavement and the other half is over the stripped area.
I would say that 300M PHP's steering is designed this way. It gives you a better feel of the road and lets you turn better than most FWD cars (just like in airplanes F-16 or Mig-29 or Su-27 are supermaneuvarable jet fighters but at the same time they are dynamically unstable, they have to be unstable in order to be so maneuverable)
oh, and while i'm at it, i wanna praise my 5 star dealer northtown chrysler in amherst. i found one of my wheel caps popped off. called the parts and it was $17/per cap. the service manager replaced it for free.
probably under warranty but may be not. anyhow, i thought it was a really nice thing to have done.
The reason I asked about ATF+4 vs ATF+3 for MY 99, was because I had my 99 300M tranny fluid changed by the dealer service dept at 30K miles back in January and just a couple days ago, checked my service record for it and noticed the paperwork said they used ATF+3.
Should I take it back and have them flush the ATF+3 and put in ATF+4? Maybe this'd get rid of the imprecise shifting issue I've always had.
Thanks again,
Rick
Here is the Borla system. I think it's available $50 cheaper than this from Summit Racing. People who have installed it reported a noticeable drone. That can be fixed by adding annular venturi tubes (available from Borla) inside the pipes.
This is the place (Husker) I got my Magnaflow collector muffler and Borla tips from. The tips are Borla #20233, the Magnaflow collector is # 12258. Nice folks to deal with. Those Borla tips I got broke the bank, but the first time I saw them I was a goner, just hadda' have 'em.
Just verified on the ipchuth site and all the Rhino mufflers are reversible. That being said, you should be able to flip the 921 and run one input on the right side and 2 outputs on the left side. You should be able to use the JC Whitney mandrel bent elbows on the outputs to get the pipes aligned side by side to run back to the valance opening. A bit tricky perhaps, but it could be done.
Weatherstripping-It was 89 yesterday and is supposed to be 90+ here today in the Deep South. I'm worried about my weatherstripping MELTING!!! ;-) Thank goodness for that fantastic AC!!!
Thanks again.
Mike
Just looked at the Rhino 925 and it's 2" longer than the 921. That's probably the only difference.
I thought long and hard before I committed future lunch money to buying those square tips. The 20213 round tips are very nice too and a lot cheaper.
Like this: http://www.centuryperformance.com/Borla/images/bor-20213.jpg
I just had to have that look.
I am thankful to Scotian, He makes me think and comes up some really good ideas. To me he is a kindred spirit and is not afraid to change something to make it better. It is nice to see Chryslers incorporate some of the ideas we have added to our 99's, it seems like they might be looking over some of our posts here.
Oh, my wife thinks I'm nuts! The Zaino showed up two days ago, and yesterday I showed up with the hood cover. Tomorrow I get my chrome plate frames, and last night she caught me drawing out an exhaust system. She just shook her head and walked away.
Mike
Mike.
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SDMIKE & all you new M'ers - aren't you glad you did it??! Its a great car if you get a good one.
FUZZYWUZZY - glad your ride is OK. I saw you had some tranny trouble but couldn't find the original post (let's not go there).
ALL - Sugar always goes out with a full bra on. Like fuzzy, I only take it off when I wash her & have been very satisfied, although this winter road crews have been putting down salt, rocks, sand etc...& I'm getting more pot marks than ever. I tried some touch-up paint (thanks MEMPHIS300M); at least that keeps it Red.
EASYRIDER - still trying to make Brookline on 5/6; looks good right now...
How much kinking is allowable before it affects performance?? I really don't have a clue, but I wanted the best possible outcome, so I went the "safe" way.
Mandrel bent elbows are available from J.C. Whitney, part # 81AS2968Y, currently for $11.49 each. They make the installation MUCH easier than trying to custom bend pipe on site. You can see the elbows and how I used them at: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=934019&a=9266730&p=31566067&f=0
I took my "box of parts" to my local Midas shop and they did a great job for me. My whole system, including the high dollar tips and installation was right at $500. You can easily cut $100 off that with cheaper tips.
If you want the true "duals look" just let me know and I'll pack up my RotoZip and bring it along to Monterey in August. We'll do a "300M Duals 101" clinic and have that right side notch cut in a heartbeat!! (Liberally punctualed with Tim Allen Tool Time grunts, and an occasional "gimme' MORE POWER")
Sugar - Not a single regret...not even the inevitable temporary buyer's remorse that comes when you sink $30k on a car.
Mike - Thanks for the info. I already ordered my license plate frames and I didn't think to check with Poway since Midway, Rancho and Carl Berger don't carry anything remotely like that. Nice to have so many choices though.
Clock faces:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9486000&p=31140913&f=0
Looks great!!!!!
For the 300M content....
I've had mine almost 6 months, 7K miles (one of the first '01s in my city). No wind or road noise that other's have spoken about. No squeaks, rattles The Michelin tires are great in both dry and wet (and snow and ice). It doesn't "wander" on the road at all. Handles great and is very quick, not like my GTP, but it has great acceleration in its own right. I have noticed that after about 5K miles, the engine lossened up quite a bit. It's much quicker now than when I first drove it. Getting about 20 MPG in combined mileage and actually got 28 MPG on a road trip driving between 70MPH and 80MPH.
Absolutely no compalints thus far.
If you talk nice, but firmly, your 5* will replace them at Chrysler's expense.
I had 2 sets replaced on my '99.
Good luck!
Thanks. I COULDN'T wait much longer to get that Zaino on because I knew what she was going to look like. Only 3 coats so far. Not nearly enough yet. Maybe by the time I get back from So. FL, the weather in CT will be better, warmer and SUNNIER!
Ever since I got rid of Christine, I am suddenly seeing more M's around here. I know some people say they see several a day, but I used to only see several a week. Today I saw one just like Christine! LOL... It looked nice. They still get my attention.
Glad you're having good luck with your car. The more you stay away from the "5-STARS", the better off you'll be.
fastdriver
My shake started happening after the 30K service which included rotating the wheels. I took it back in and they rebalanced all my wheels at my cost.
This helped quite a bit but the shake is still there a little. I then had one of their mechanics ride with me to verify it and what he said was, it's likely slight rotor warpage and wouldn't cause a problem. He said I had about 25% brake life left, so I could either get new brakes now or wait another 10K miles till they're needed. In either case that'll fix the shake.
I opted to wait... hope he's right.
Rick
The clear plastic coatings on the side CHRYSLERs peeled off and now my letters are corroding. Has this happened to anyone else?
Anyone want a set of springs cheap :-/
Warped Rotors are caused by lug nuts not properly torqued, actually overtorqued by powerful air driven impact wrenches.
I have my tires rotated at the local car wash/express lube and they use "torque stiks" to tighten the lug nuts. This is a kit of stiks, each different in color, that are coded for a particular torque. Gray is 100 ft/lbs. I use a regular craftsman torque wrench whenever I remove wheels myself.
The spec is 100 ft/lbs.
I've rotated five times in 33K and no warped rotors. Done this with success on other family vehicles as well, except my Dad's jeep. He had some work done at the dealer and when we got the brakes changed at 50K miles, all rotors were warped and could not be turned smooth. I was not happy when they showed the rotors on the lathe and the cutter hitting and missing the surface. Had to buy four rotors.
We don't make that mistake anymore.
The nuts on the eGroups 300m/lhs list were figuring out what other words I could make with the letters. "MAKE ME V8 RWD" was my favorite suggestion, but I think I need more letters...
I think they are trying to save a buck at your expense. Perhaps gain some tranny work down the road. My opinion.
Honestly, I'm not sure what the difference is in the fluid, since Amsoil can make a synthetic that meets/exceeds both standards. (Review previous posts I've made about Amsoil, so I don't have to bore everyone again with my Amsoil diatribes)
Good luck.
I bet if mod your car enough, it will soon be a V8 RWD
I mean someone did mention you were the King of mods. When you get your parts and details figured out, let us know. I too want a V8 RWD. Can you do for that issue, what Micheal Hujo did for dual exhaust? If not, we'll just have to trade up for a 300N.
BTW, I really love my clock face. I stare at it everyday thinking, that's so cool.