Chrysler 300M

fastdriver

topdavis-

Yep. SOUNDS good. Hope they have better accountants than Enron and Worldcom!

http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0207/18/autos-540364.htm

fastdriver

muskateer3

Refer to this TSB when you go to the dealer:

NUMBER: 19-001-01

GROUP: Steering

DATE: Mar. 23, 2001

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 19-003-00 REV A, DATED OCTOBER 6, 2000 WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE PART NUMBER CHANGES AND ADDITIONAL MODEL YEAR.

WARNING: FAILURE TO ACHIEVE A MINIMUM TORQUE OF 100 NM (74 FT. LBS.) MAY RESULT IN THE ATTACHING BOLTS LOOSENING AND FRACTURING. THIS COULD RESULT IN A SUBSEQUENT LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL. BENDING THE RETAINING TABS ALONE WILL NOT PREVENT THIS.

SUBJECT:
Loose Steering

OVERVIEW:

This bulletin provides service procedures and parts information for the inner tie rod bushings.

MODELS:
1993 - **2001 ** (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/New Yorker/Vision/300M

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Loose feel or clunk in the steering wheel as the wheel is moved from side to side.

DIAGNOSIS:

Observe the inner tie rod to steering gear attaching point while moving the steering wheel from side to side. If there is movement between the gear and inner tie rod, perform the Repair Procedure. If no movement is evident further diagnosis of the condition will be required.

DISCUSSION:

The inner tie rod bushings have previously been serviced with the tie rod assembly. This bulletin releases the parts, service procedures, and special tool necessary to service just the bushings. Subsequent service manuals will contain the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the tie rod assembly as described in Group 19 of the appropriate service manual.

NOTE: WHEN SERVICING THE INNER TIE ROD BUSHINGS, REPLACEMENT OF BUSHINGS ON BOTH INNER TIE RODS IS RECOMMENDED AS WELL AS ALL ATTACHING HARDWARE (DISCARD OLD ATTACHING PARTS).

2. Mount Receiver, Special Tool 8438-1, in a vice (Fig. 1).

3. Assemble Special Tool 8438 in the following manner to remove the bushing from the inner tie rod (Figure 1).

a. Place the inner tie rod bushing end in the receiver.

b. Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool 8438-4, with the small end down on top of the bushing.

c. Insert Screw, Special Tool 8438-3, through the Remover/Installer and tie rod bushing, until it threads into the bottom of the Receiver.

d. Using hand tools, tighten the Screw until it bottoms out. The bushing is now removed from the inner tie rod.

4. Remove the Screw, then remove the Remover/Installer, tie rod and bushing from the Receiver.

5. Using Mopar Silicone Spray, p/n 04318070, spray bushing, inner tie rod end, and inside of Sizer, Special Tool 8438-2.

CAUTION: USE ONLY THE LUBRICANT SPECIFIED, DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED RUBBER BUSHING INSTALLATION LUBRICANT. PREMATURE BUSHING FAILURE MAY OCCUR.

NOTE: THE INNER TIE ROD BUSHING IS SYMMETRICAL. THERE IS NO DESIGNATED TOP OR BOTTOM.

6. Place new bushing, p/n 05018125AA, in the bore of the Sizer (Fig. 2). Slide bushing all the way into the Sizer bore.

7. With the Receiver, Special Tool 8438-1, mounted in the vise, assemble the Special Tool 8438 in the following manner to install the new bushing (Fig. 3).

a. Place the inner tie rod end in Receiver.

b. Place the Sizer (with bushing) on the top of the tie rod bushing bore with the tapered end facing downward.

c. Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool 8438-4, with the small end down on the top of the bushing.

d. Insert Screw, Special Tool 8438-3, through the Remover/Installer, bushing (in Sizer) and tie rod, until it threads into the bottom of the Receiver.

e. Using hand tools, slowly tighten the Screw, pushing the bushing out of the Sizer, into the inner tie rod end. Tighten the Screw until it bottoms in the tool. Do not overtighten.

8. Remove the Screw, Remover/installer and Sizer, then remove the tie rod from the Receiver.

9. Inspect the bushing, it will appear slightly off-center in the tie rod (Fig. 4). This is a normal condition.

10. Install the tie rod assembly as described in Group 19 of the appropriate service manual.

WARNING: THE INNER TIE ROD TO STEERING GEAR ATTACHING BOLTS, P/N 06507006AA, MUST BE TIGHTENED TO 100 NM (74 FT. LBS.) WITH AN APPROPRIATE TORQUE WRENCH AND RETAINING TABS BENT AGAINST THE HEADS OF THE BOLTS TO ENSURE A SECURE AND RELIABLE JOINT. THE WASHERS, P/N 05017820AA, MUST BE INSTALLED BETWEEN THE TIE RODS AND STEERING GEAR.

WARNING: FAILURE TO ACHIEVE A MINIMUM TORQUE OF 100 NM (74 FT. LBS.) MAY RESULT IN THE ATTACHING BOLTS LOOSENING AND FRACTURING. THIS COULD RESULT IN A SUBSEQUENT LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL. BENDING THE RETAINING TABS ALONE WILL NOT PREVENT THIS.

11. Perform procedure on remaining tie rod.

POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

hickoxk

Thanks Muskateer3! You gotta love this bulletin board.

muskateer3

Your quite welcome.

The folks on the 300M board are a great bunch (except for that one guy nobody likes ;-)) totally kidding )

videoman1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1844901003

-vman

sdmike2

...vman, I want one! LOL. That would look cool pulling up the the Brampton plant. Oh, what the heck...here goes my bid.

blonda

That's pretty cool. SDMike -- when you win it I want a ride in it okay?

I wonder how they got the grill blacked out like that (the wing is too). They have that headlight "mod" going also.

ottowrkr

That is one cool looking M. Yeah ,how cool would that be seeing that drive up to the front door of the plant .

luch1

Thanks to all for the suggestions. This is a great board. I'll pass them to the service rep. Replacing the servo and computer would not have been my first choices either, but that is what they chose to do and since it was no money out of my pocket (warranty covered it), why argue. Regarding cruise control, I find it very easy to hit high speeds in the 300M without even realizing it. When you drive heavily patrolled interstate every day, it pays to have cruise control. It has saved many a ticket.

99_300m_ric_va

Ok, someone bid on the limo, then pick up sdmike, blonda, and glennbp from San Diego area and take them to Detroit Brampton. Pick up Roger in Seattle on the way.

That would be cool.

Anyway, how would you like to be the one the had to cut the car in half. Then I guess they insert a standard center section, make some skin panels to flow with the M lines and lots of welding and paint. It turned out really good.

easyrider300m

could be purchased by the Club with excess funds---then you could load it up wit da membas and go from Detroit to Brampton in style--the club could always sell it later to the mob, probably at a nice profit--

Sure would look nice with the club name emblazoned on the sides---would look awesome cruisin down woodward ave followed by about 20 300M's

videoman1

We could even add a trailer hitch on the back so sdmike can bring his bike.

-vman

fastdriver

Sdmike2's duals would look good on there too.

fastdriver

PS sdmike2- imagine that in RED! ;-))

300michael

I post a picure of a great mod to have if you are going to the Meet next month, so you will not get any tickets. go to http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ go to the first new mods.

sdmike2

bummer...someone outbid me already. Hey fastdriver...no need for a bike rack on that one. I could get my bike INSIDE! lol!

ottowrkr

make a new bid , I'll throw in a 20 .

easyrider300m

maybe they'll let it go cheap--wonder what the reserve is---

Or here's a better idea---why not call the guy up and tell him he could donate it to our not-for-profit 300M club and he could get a nice tax deduction and help out a great organization---you never know, maybe the guy has plenty of money and would like to do a good deed---actually he would probably only recover about 1/4 to 1/3 of what he has invested in that car if he sells it; yet a tax deduction of 1/2 or 2/3 of his original investment would probably give him a better return especially if he's in a high tax bracket.

So maybe someone should seriously approach this guy and you never know what might happen---tell him we'll even give him some free advertising on the club web site and maybe even on the side of the limo!

And if the club gets the limo, it should be garaged in different areas of the country for a few months at a time so all members could enjoy it!

EZ

easyrider300m

the maximum gross vehicle weight of the limo is 4531 pounds---since our M's already weigh about 3600 pounds , that limo with its extra length must weigh about 4200 pounds---that leaves about 331 pounds---not much more than just the chaffeur---so unless they beefed up the suspension and frame on that car, it would be illegal---

fuzzywuzzy

I have seen that Limo down here in Boca Raton FL. I found it funny. It really does look good in person. That's only 1 of them, I saw a silver one to.

pat

Folks, please do not post links to sites containing material that is not allowed on this site.

Thank you.

Pat
Sedans Host

moparfan1

Hello,

I've been lurking on this site for a while now, and have come to be impressed with the knowledge and comeraderie I see here. I hope to be a more regular poster in the future. In the mean time, I was wondering if anyone could lend an opinion or two on my questions below:

I have a 2000 300M w/ PHP and Michelin MXM4 tires, @ 38,000 miles. Recently, I noticed a few problems that I wanted my dealer (5*) to address: driver's side window shudders and clunks when I close it, and the LR door lock doesn't always open all the way. Otherwise, it's in for "routine" maintenance (never got around to my 30K checkup before now).

The service guy called me back with the following list of things to do. I think some of this is high or redundant to better alternatives, and I was hoping for some input from this community.

1- Need two front tires due to "uneven wear". OK, I didn't rotate the tires as often as I should, but I haven't noticed any performance or handling problems. Still, I guess I can't complain with these tires @ 38K mi. But he wants $480, installed! I was thinking of having a local tire shop put $90 Yokohama 420s on. Thoughts?

2- Front brakes, rotors and fluid. He wants $334. I am under the impression that the OEM brakes on a 300M are a pretty good design. If I am going to replace parts, should I consider any aftermarket brakes instead? Does this price sound out of line to anyone?

3- Emissions Servicing: air filter, PCV valve, combustion chamber cleaning for $158.93. I think I'd prefer to put a performance air cleaner (K&N) or some sort of a cold air box in at this point, and I can definitely get a replacement PCV valve and some combustion chamber cleaner on my own. Any recommendations on a replacement air system?

4- "Transmission servicing" for $182.10. I didn't get a break-out on what this meant, and I don't know how necessary it is. Seems like a big chunk of change. Any thoughts?

5- Driver window and LR door lock are malfunctioning, as per their technician, who is now taking the doors off for a look-see. Should be covered under warranty, but "will let me know"... Are these known problems? Are there TSBs on them? Thoughts?

Thanks for any insight you can provide. I'd love to get the PP gears and a blower, but with a new business, a new baby, and a half-completed Dodge Challenger restoration underway, I just can't do it right now...

bigmike5

My .02. Tranny service in Elizabethtown, KY was $79.95, that's a change of fluid and filter. Also you should do the differential. That cost $41.00 for 2 qts of 90wt gear oil and labor. I'm at 46K and no PVC stuff yet on maintenance schedule as far as I can remember. On tires, I barely got 40K on Michelin MXRV-4s I had on wife's Aurora so you may need some new tires at 38K. I would go with the Yoko's unless you intend to go wider. All reports on them are good. On the windows, there is a Tech Support Bulletin on bad motors and I did have a problem with one of the locks not locking the door when the remote button was pushed. Had to have that replaced. On rotors and brakes, I still had plenty of pad left at 46K but changed to higher performance rotors that came with higher performance pads. The cost on 4 new rotors and pads was $510, so cheaper should be out there if you need them. On the rotors, I would just have them turned and add the better MOPAR pads that the dealer supposedly carries. Unless your rotors are shot or you are going to a higher performance rotor why would they be replaced? Don't sound right to me.

denverm

Limo: In Vegas a couple weeks ago I saw a white LHS limo. Didn't look too closely at it, but that car seems more appropriate for a limo to me. The M's bobbed rear end seems a bit odd on a stretch limo. As for soliciting a donation to the Club, I don't think it would be tax-deductible. The Club is a non-profit, and has received income tax exemption from the IRS as a non-profit social club, but since it is not a 501(c)(3) charity, I believe that donations to the Club would not be deductible by the donor. This is probably more information than you care to know regarding a presumably facetious suggestion, but thought I would clarify the situation.

moparfan1 I have a 2000 w/ PHG. At 35k miles, I figure I have only a few thousand more miles on my original tires, so I don't think you should feel bad about needing new tires at 38k. Unless your front tires are real bad, though, I would consider putting them on the rear and seeing if you can wear all four out (and replace all four) at once. I'm considering the Yoko 420's because of the price, but I've sure been happy with the Michelins.

My transmission fluid and filter change at 30k was about $185. Seemed high to me, but I called a couple other local dealers and they charged similar rates.

My driver's window really creaked when it closed. After a couple unsuccessful attempts to adjust it, they finally replaced the regulator, and that solved the problem.

I've had my front brake pads replaced, and they suggested new rotors, too. I think they may suggest that as a matter of course. I declined the new rotors and have not had any problems. I've been happy with the OEM brakes. Some folks posting here have had problems with performance replacements. My sense is that most of those have been with cross-drilled rotors, and that at least one person thinks slotted rotors are better. Personally, I would either want a strong positive recommendation from someone re: their use of specific performance replacements, or I would go OEM.

I would probably just replace the air filter (with whatever you want) and PCV valve, and skip his offer for combustion chamber cleaning, if the car is running well otherwise.

splatt

1) Check the tires yourself. How much ineven wear is there? (Is the tire down to the ribs - there is a small piece of rubber going across the treads. When you hit that it's too low. Basically 2/32") As for pricing - they are ripping you off. Go to a local shop to compare pricing, check your costco if you have one (they are good on prices) or www.tirerack.com

2)Price is a rip again. I had the pads replaced and the rotors cut at 33k mi for $144 with a $10 and air guage rebate (they stopped that in June I believe). Your local shop should have the same prices, sometimes lower. I went with the mopar pads, since I've had problems with crhsylers in the past with squealing. However, many people are using the raybestos pads. I believe pepboys carrys them

3)Sounds like another rip. OEM air filter - $10, K&N $40. You can replace yourself in 5 min. PCV valve, not sure the cost, but it's a small part and I believe a fairly easy fix. Can't imagine those prices

4)Another rip (I'm seeing a pattern here Transmission fluid and filter should be $80-100. Differential fluid (did they mention that? probably not I got the tranny fluid/filter and diff. for $130 locally. COuld even be less in places, but I trust this guy. If it was a tranny flush, then I could see that price, but given the other prices I doubht it.

5) If it's under warranty, let them do it However, the 99s had problems with bad window motors, so I am not too surprised. Not sure of the tsb though.

A note on the differential fluid - many of the places I've asked for pricing (and did NOT go to ) first response was "you have fwd, you don't have diff. fluid." Most fwd don't, but that's because the enging normally goes transaxle, but in our case it is front to back, so it is needed. In one shop, after mentioning this, the guy said, oh, really? I didn't get it done there

moparfan1

Thanks, Splatt. I knew the prices were high, generally, but wasn't sure what my options were yet.

I have a competent guy in my neighborhood whom I trust - he alone does service on my off-warranty Jeep Cherokee, wife's car, etc. I'll have the dealership do the warranty work and rotate the tires, then visit my local garage for realistic prices.

Besides, I got it over on these guys when I bought the car from them. Great story...

splatt

You can't leave us hanging with a line like that! Explain!! :-D

moparfan1

In April 2000, I was shopping around for a 300M and found out a lot about pricing - holdback, dealer's volume discount, etc. I found a pretty good price in the Midwest ($28,900 for 2000 w/ PHP), and resolved to find a car locally for the same price; not an easy task in Northern NJ.

I live in a rural county, and eventually found myself in an unassuming 5* dealership with a straight-shooting salesman, believe it or not.

Anyway, I told him what I wanted: Light Cyprus Pearlcoat, aggate leather interior, PHP, sunroof, upgraded stereo, full size spare, and when he asked what I wanted to spend on it, he squirmed a bit. I allowed him to overhear a conversation with my wife suggesting we "talk to the salesman at Reedman" (an infamous volume-discount dealer in Phila), and he jumped up to talk to his manager.

After about 10 minutes, the manager came back with him and explained that they didn't have this car on the lot, but if I wanted, they could locate one for me at this price. OK. Deal. I put down some earnest money, and left.

A few days later, they called to tell me the car was in. I arrived and we did some paperwork. I got financing at a good rate for that time (2.5%, I think), and was about to take delivery on the car when the salesman took me out to review it. Everything looked great, it even had the smoker's group, gratis. Except - the interior was camel.

No. I didn't want this car. I told him this purchase was not just a car to me, and I only wanted exactly the car I ordered - in writing. The salesman started to sweat; they weren't able to trade for the car, they had to buy it from another dealer with a bank check. He took me back inside and RAN to his manager's office. He came back out, looking pale. "If you don't buy this car, I'll lose my job," he said. I told him that wasn't fair or my problem, and I asked for his manager.

A few minutes later, the manager came out - he too looked pale. He asked me what he could do to get me to buy the car. Lower price (he would now be losing money on the car)? Good, but not enough. I asked for chrome rims. He couldn't get them. Remote ignition? DONE! Boy, were they happy.

In the end, I came to love the camel interior, but it really took a little time. I got the car at a great price: $27,800 or so, with all the good stuff, a remote ignition, and a ton of free rentals (they threw that in at one point, too).

P.S. As it turns out, I suspect this car originally came from Reedman, the dealership I leveraged these guys against in the first place!

I think this situation was the result of an unfortunate miscommunication on the part of the dealer, that came back to bite him with his bank check flapping in the wind, but so be it. It just goes to show you that the little guy can win sometimes.

I have had no complaints about this car since I drove it off the lot. Zippy, stylish, roomy and reliable. In fact, just the other day I was going 70ish on a straight, flat, newly-repaved stretch of freeway, and took my hands off the wheel to see how straight it tracked. 2.1 miles without steering wheel input! And that on tires experienceing "irregular wear"...

splatt

LOL - Yes I know Reedman - Got my first car there You got quite a deal. Gotta love it when they screw up...

Whereabouts in NJ are you? We have a couple of people in the area - I'm outside Philly (NW) and Doc is up un NYC area. You should check out www.300Mclulb.org. Many of us are also members there. As well as the 300M Enthusiasts board(there is a link off of the 300M club site).

p.s. - I'd bet you're just hitting refresh on the screen here. That's why you're double posting. What I do to get around that is hit the last topics number (notice the number of the topic is highlighted). Then it will start the page at that number. No problems with reposting...

moparfan1

splatt,

I'm in Sussex County. I know NE an NW Philly very well, pretty fluent in NYC, too.

I think I saw some folks from Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club at Carlisle, last week.

Also, I took care of the duplicate posts, and will follow your advice in the future.

Thanks again to all for advice. I'll advise when I get upgrades/repairs complete how I made out.

cmyers300m

This was emailed to me today guys. Sorry I didn't ask about the price, but their other kits are around $500.............

Hello,

The 9005XS and 9006XS HID Kits are in stock right now. They will be
available to order online within by the end of this weekend, so please check
back at www.midnightmoose.com and full product details will be available for
you.

Thank you!

Doug T. - Customer Support
www.midnightmoose.com
your source for performance lighting accessories!

mrl859

Are there any new colors for the 2003 300M Special?

mrl859

I ordered these in two different sizes the other day when someone posted the site. I received them last night, They're pretty cool. They have a thin weatherstrip type material around the circumference to seal the goo out away from the wheels. And the "handle" part has a pad with a vinyl mesh over it (like the pad over the handle bar brace on a kids bike)which is very comfortable to hold. It probably costs 13 cents to manufacture, but I couldn't have designed one myself. All in all, a cheap solution to a pain in the neck.

fastdriver

blonda-

Got tires? ;-))

drpixel-

WHERE are you and HOW are you? Hope you're feeling better!

fastdriver

beach15

That same as 2002, but Graphite metallic will also be available.

300michael

I recieved the same letter yesterday. I sent a copy to Rogor (Da Prez) to see what kind of discount he may work out for the club, if any. If they don't work as driving lamps, maybe I can install then in place of my backup lamps. 8)

99_300m_ric_va

I hope they did not put 2 qts in your differential, it only holds 1 qt and that's with it starting to trickle out of the fill hole (normally you fill one until it starts coming out the fill hole).

blonda

Nope...still no tires. I called Sears again today and they didn't come in as promised. They were going to pull up the tracking number and call Michelin again, but they haven't called me back yet. I checked Tire Rack who was showing those tires as "low stock" a couple weeks ago. Now they say they are not available until 8/26 (those are 245/50's). The 235/50's say available 7/26 -- so looks like they have a problem with production or something (Michelin told Sears it was a delivery problem). I'm getting a little ticked off. I would ask for my money back and buy some different tires, but since I decided to fork out the $$ and go for the best....it's hard for me to settle for something else/less. When I do talk to Sears again I'm going to ask them to see if Michelin can compensate in some way (one free tire?). Afterall, they are the one's who are not keeping their word - not Sears.

Today when accellerating from a stop fairly quickly, but not even close to flooring it....my rear end fishtailed a little. Not a good thing. Looks like I have to drive the speed limit until I get new tires. :-(

splatt

I would go to sears and tell them you want a complete refund immediately or you will go to the credit card company and go for a refund saying you are not getting what you paid for (the cc company would give you your money back, but it takes some time to file for it - you have to wait till you get your first bill, but you don't have to tell sears that

That should make them either refund you or deal a little better. I'm sure you can find just as good or better a deal somewhere else.

trolph

Hi, I'm new to this site and find it very useful and would like to help out saving everyone some money also.
I just recently bought out a 2000 300m which 2 year lease ended in March. It had 29016 km and got it for 25,400 Canadian after all taxes were added, (16,500US). I think this was a great deal since it had very low mileage.
Anyway I love it and wanted to install chrome tips on the tailpipes. I got the tips and went to the local dealership to get them installed. They informed me that the muffler had 3 pinholes at the bottom of it and would not be worth installing these tips because it would need to be replaced shortly. When they put the car on the hoist, they also noticed 2 holes in the exhaust pipe attached to the engine....so much for stainless steel. They replaced it all since it was still under warranty 3/60km. This would have been a $1200 if not covered and if I didn't want to put the tips on, I surely wouldn't have noticed the holes.
Check your exhaust systems to save this repair cost and I hope to hear that I helped some of you save $$$. trolph

300michael

What are they putting on the snow over there, battery acid?.

300michael

$1200 cn is rediculous. You can get a better one (dual) for half that much.

mrl859

Not to be a stickler, but how does the rear of a FWD car fishtail accelerating from a stop? It reminds me of being a young pup and trying to do smoky burnouts in my dad's Honda Accord demonstrator with the rear wheels in water!

sdmike2

reverse

99_300m_ric_va

Here's a sampling:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rpowelljr300n/lst?.dir=/My+Photos/2002+Carlisle+Event

trolph

If the exhaust system wasn't under warranty, I would have got a better dual system. I was just trying to get the point across for 300m owners to do a simple inspection to avoid these absurd costs.

blonda

mrl859 - well I think the front tires slipped first, causing the rear to fishtail -- easy to happen with bald tires on a damp road.

Splatt - I don't think Sears will have any problem giving me my $$ back since they told me 2-3 days when I ordered them; however, I'm 99% sure no one else will have those tires either. I plan to call a few places today. If I was going stock size I think I could find some, but the size I've ordered, I can almost guarantee no one keeps those on hand and it appears Michelin is having a hard time coming through with them.

blonda

If I can find someone with the 235/55 Mich Pilot Sport A/S I'm think I'm going to go with those. Still wider than stock, but I can fill up that wheel well some more. I don't know if anyone's ever had that size on their M. Discount Tire Direct also shows the 245/50's as out of stock in all locations.

300michael

had to order my Bridgestones since they do not normally carry that brand. It took 3 days, and they were less expensive then tire rack.

blonda

Michelin just told Sears my tires would take 3 more weeks. No way. They are crediting my card back no problem. They don't have any comparable sizes. I found 2 locations of Discount Tire in San Diego County that have the 235/55's in stock at $235 (wow) each. I'm getting them today (driving about 30 miles). Sears was only $202 -- I'll try to get DT to go down, but since they already know they are hard to come by I may not have very good luck.

lonestarsled

The exhaust system is not completely stainless. The rear muffler (resonator) that you install the tips on is not stainless, just galvanized steel construction. The flex pipes are also galvanized steel. My car has only 12,500 miles on it and I can see rust on the resonator, and rust typically stains my chrome exhaust tips.

As far as the "exhaust pipe attached to the engine", I am assuming that your are talking about the exhaust manifolds. I can't even see mine since they have heat shields attached to them.

Everything from the cats back to the resonator is stainless - minus the flex pipes. Also, stainless comes in different grades. This is OEM quality so do not expect it to be the quality of say a borla system.