Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra's w 8100/Allison
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
If your getting the knock with the Syn. I think it would be worth while changing oil again back to non-syn. At least you would have a comparison!!
Mobil falsified data on their Aviation Syn. product and had to get out of that market. Personally I don't trust Mobil for any thing.
Just a thought!!
2" forward of the weld seam - if all my measurements were close - would put you about 1 & 1/16" ahead of the axel (if Reese K/S).
What Hitch do you have? 15K Reese kwik slide?? What is your towing position 'Pin' measurement from the rear window glass or front of box??
Wonder if you could also confirm your measurement of the front rail front row of sq. holes from the rear of the bed floor - you know-(right where the tail gate closes next to).
If my measurements are close your measurement should be about 52&1/8".
Top of 'L' will point in as you said and will use the outer two front rail holes (40 3/4" C to C) & the front centered slot of the 'L's. (Truck frame rails at that area are 44" apart outside to outside.)]
Thanks for any trouble but nice to have comparison (measure twice/cut once type of a deal)
Thanks - 75v
I have 14k slider. From rear window on ext cab to centerline of hitchpin hole is 40". From front bed floor is 25.5" back to leading edge of front bed rail of hitch mount.
From rear of bed floor to front rail square hole is 52.5"
I remember the installer measureing in the bed with the assembled hitch in place and marking holes. I'm pretty certain after setting hitch in bed he drilled bed holes and then put the brackets on the frame where they fell based on bed holes. Front rail the 2 bolts on each end of rail are in first holes. The rear rail the bolts are in second hole from the end on each side.
Hitch sets centered from side to side.
If you need any more measure. let me know.
BlackChevy, I pull a 30 foot,8000 lb travel trailer (~950 hitch weight) with my 1989 350 G20 Chevy Conversion van with 3:73 gears with no problems. I took a 10,000 mile trip from Florida to Washington State through many mountains. I've done all the right things to this tow vehicle to handle the load (ventilated rotors, new front springs/gas shocks, 4 transmission coolers, engine oil cooler, rear air shocks, added spring in the rear, rear anti-sway bar, posi-traction, etc)
I use 1000 lb weigh distribution bars and two (2) anti-sway bars...this is important.
In my opinion the 3:73 gears you ordered are fine for what you are towing, and you wouldn't have needed the 8.1 to do the job.
I'm seriously considering a 2002 2500HD Extended cab sb to pull a 11,000 5th wheel, and based on my experience with the 350 and 3/4 ton chevy van, I may very well go with the 6.0 rather than the 8.1.
Hope this helps, John
HD 4x4 8100 alli SB does set too high (guess its the Ford/Dodge thing i could have done without) to not have boards for us.
Went with single piece front to rear wheel (really strugled with that decission)that have three L shaped frame mounted brackets with rubber splash guards each end (super strong to stand on) to take care of any flex issues - installed about $360.00. Extruded Alum w/anodized black step area and chrome looking outer edge. Really matches up well with the LT chrome body side stripe and the Access Tonnue cover with chrome rails -(Indigo Blu).
Note the HD cab does not have a flange to mount to so if you don't get a design that keys off the frame the hangars have to be about 2' long up to the floor pan area-- didn't like that idea!!
You should try and sell them im sure someone would buy them
Any idea how I can track the delivery of my PU knowing the VIN#.
Note to Ryan and n75. I've had my black fender flares in my local newspaper classifieds for over a month for $150 for the four flare set and haven't had a nibble. I'll take best offer if you know anyone interested..
In their forum section they have a place where you can place ads.
Try that i have heard a few people asking for fender flares.
What can I do with this VIN? I know that some of you were able to track shipment.
2001 Chev Silv 2500HD 4dr Ext Cab LT 4WD w/Onstar
There is apparently some confusion by Edmunds about the LS and LT equipment groups for this truck, the LT being more expensive, differing in price by almost $4000. Both list the same price for the Allison option: $1974 (inv.), $2295 (MSRP). However, given that the LS comes standard with a 5 spd. man. trans., the 4 spd. auto standard in the LT should offset the cost of the Allison by about $1000, the approximate amount of the error. I just ordered this truck yesterday and will pay $1032 (inv.) for the option. With all due respect to our host, and considering the monumental task of keeping all this *@%## straight, buyers entering the arena armed with this (Edmunds) price are gonna get carried out on a pole. I just emailed Edmunds about it. Hopefully, correction follows.
After a thousand times of measuring everything I drilled my floor using a very precisly measured cardboard template and used 52.8125" dim from the back
(I didn't want to use the hitch because its too heavy for me to move around and didn't want to scratch up the floor in the process plus with the template everything was square without X measuring process on the hitch it's self).
I kept getting about a 5/16" discrepency between what I was measureing and the 52.5" when I plumb-lined up over the bed sides and down to the frame for the front L's. Those front L's have to be exactly where you said. You got about +/- a 1/4" because of that access slot in the side of the frame.
Anyway, really appreciate it. (was able to 'measure twice and cut once' -- You must have had to go out and measure things the same nite I asked.
For (blackchevy) I have the 2500 with the 3.73 gear ratio and I was getting between 8 and 10 mpg towing and averaging 60 mph with the AC on most of the time. Took about a 1500 mile round trip to Las Vegas over the Tehachapi which I think is around 4000 feet.
Regarding the question about the placement of the hitch. I have used the same RBW Lil Rocker hitch in my last 3 shortbed trucks. A 91 Silverado, 2000 Sierra and this 2001 Sierra, I installed it in the last 2 trucks myself and placed in the middle of the bed right over the axle. I pull a 26 foot Nash and have been able to do a 90 degree turn without any problems with each truck.
I wasn't aware of the 5 minute idling time in drive I guess I should read the owners manual sometime.
I have noticed that my trans. temp. reading goes up when I am driving solo in stop and go traffic... is that normal for this trans.
It would actually go higher in those situations than it would towing on the highway.
Thanks guys I appreciate all opinions.
Does anyone know if the nerf bars extend past the second door to the edge of the wheel well. I've seen some steps that do that but not a bar. I want to be able to stand on the bar or step to reach over to the middle of the truck bed. I have a Roll-N-Lock cover and can't reach the lock from the ground with this truck.
Also do they custom make the bars and steps to fit the 8.1 trucks or do you have to do some fitting yourself.
He said the Computer in the regular Automatic (4???) has a Default mode where if the computer senses (or thinks) there is a trany problem it will lock the trany in a low gear where if can run high pressure fluid (he said 2nd gear but maybe he didn't remember that correctly) to prevent transmission damage etc.
So it may be that the Allison has a similar Default condition and if the computer has some sort of a glitch it could cause the trany to lock down.
Maybe thats what happened to yours????
Do any of you guys have a problem with one side of the truck being higher than the other. I noticed that when I look at the tailgate of my truck from the rear, the right side is about an inch higher than the left. I thought at first it was the ground that was not level but I measured it on level ground and it is higher. When I mentioned it to the service dept. I was told that they sometimes come that way because of the way the body is assembled on the chassis. What do you guys think ??
If any of you guys that tow are using CIPA slide on mirrors take a good look at the plastic insert that fits inside of them.
I scratched up the chrome on my mirrors because of a rough finish on those inserts. I've used 000 steel wool on mine now to get rid of the burrs and glued some rubber patch material over the curved end.
Anyway I sure would not start messing with the tortion bars to make it level.
I was told years ago that is required because of the normal crown in the road way and has to do with alignments so it tracks straight going down the 'standard crown' in the 'standard road way'.
Maybe cowboyjohn will comment.
For Wooly and Loop Silverado - I am 1/2 owner in a front end alignment/brake shop in Bellflower CA. We get all kinds of crunched cars, custom pickups, and lowered vehicles. You can tighten up your torsion bars and expect a stiffened ride - kind of like riding a draught horse. If you do so, this will change the geometrics of the front end, although this does not mean it puts it out of factory spec - but it may. We charge $12.50 for an alignment check, which would be worth it for my piece of mind. If the alignment is out, and you want it aligned, the 12.50 is applied to the alignment charges.
Now on to the road crown. A good shop will ask you what type of driving you do and on what kind of roads. The shop can then set your alignment for that type of road crown. The vehicle should go straight down the road - hands off - Don't count on this for a 5 mile nap. All of our customers vehicles - if it is driveable when we get it - gets two test drives, one before the work to see what a good mechanic may detect that a customer may not, then again after the work is done to assure that it drives right and the problem has been solved.
For what ever all the above is worth. cowboyjohn
25 foot Bear sign out in front
15812 Lakewood Blvd
Ask for Jerry
How did you run it inside the box??
I need it inside as i have an Access tonnue cover that i keep closed when unhooked from the camper.
Don't see any knock out plugs in the front box pannel or the floor so assume have to make my own hole??
I have a Roll-N-lock cover so I drilled my hole into the sidewall just in front and above the wheel well on that side. They don't give you a lot of wire so you can't go too far down the bed to drill you hole. I bought a 7 pin towing socket you will find there are 9 conductors in the cable but you only need the 7 in most cases. When I'm towing I can close my cover part way and cover the plug. I made a divider so that when the cover is partially closed it reaches the divider and locks there making a secure compartment for all of my junk I carry when I am towing.
Any place under dash available or wiring to 'piggy back' onto??
Don't really want to have the wire strung from 'RD' to the plug on a permanent basis plus when on trip all three are spoken for.
#1- Appolo Precedus GPS to drive --
#2- Lap top with moving map driven from the GPS-
#3- TV for Grand Kids for 6hrs to Oshkosh --
Hoping someone knows an easy wire to glum on to.
I wonder if there is an empty spot in the fuse box?
Power only when ingnition is on.
Really don't want to have to go thru the firewall though!!
This waiting is like going to the dentist for root canal. ANTICIPATION! ANTICIPATION! ANTICIPATION!
This is the longest I've ever had to wait for an ordered vehicle.
We also had a new Ford Explorer in. The front ends have definitely been modified from previous years. Apparently it is somewhat on the order of the slipper and slider front ends used on some of the older Dodges.
difference and the difference in driving characteristics, any comments? I also posted this on the other post.
really tough isn't it??
But I still need that Ignition Off wire (:-(
I really like them