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I have actually looked for a offroad club in the area, but around here you are only welcomed if you own a Jeep, Toyota, Land Rover, Xterra,... no Isuzu clubs yet
-mike
Town car Axiom
Body on frame + +
Unequal arm independent
front suspension + +
Solid axle with
coils rear suspension + +
So what gives in the Axiom? I suspect two factors. One is the spring rate. Due to taller center of gravity SUV's need firmer springs to counter roll-over tendency.
Second factor is the shocks. These shocks just can't perform when the going gets tough. Isuzu should learn from toyota (or from town car hehehehehe) when it comes to shocks.
But still, the winner is (drums roll).........
THE AXIOM!!!
Of course, this is an Axiom board, what else can you expect. No, truly if you get the axiom you have more than enough money left to upgrade you toy.
And, you can delete your own posts at any time with that light blue delete box up by your name :-)
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Someone earlier asked about center display (MID) - I personally like it. It takes some time to get used to it since it has so much info, but that's the beauty of it. You don't have to press many buttons to find the info you want. In the Toyota Highlander you have to press buttons to switch from the temp displays to ave MPG or MPH. It also is visible in most light conditions. Again, the Highlander info is hard to see in bright daylight. My only complaint is that the small lights on the Axiom ventilation buttoms are hard to see in the daylight, but then again once you set them you don't have to fool with them since it has automatic ac/heat.
As I drove my Ax last night, due to our recent conversations, I paid special attention to suspension and its behavior. Sure it is not perfect and does not react exactly how it should, but it is not as bad as we put it. It is an OK ride for an SUV, one can get used to it. A firmware update would be nice, though.
On one trip I put the Axiom on cruise about 70 mph and it held it perfectly on the steep grades. There was an Explorer behind me and I would always leave him behind on the steeps, but he would always come speeding up behind me on the flats or downhills.
Paisan, yeah, it is weird that the clubs aren't too accepting here of other makes. There seem to be some clubs that accept all makes, but you look at their vehicles and they are all lifted wranglers and they only go on Rubicon class trails. I don't think the stock Axiom could handle that due to its less wheel articulation than the Rodeo and lower ground clearance. Any Isuzu owners in the Bay area know of good offroading in the area?
Keepontroopin, no hard feelings here either, its just that most people here don't feel its a senseless conversation.
(Goodyear Integrity) on the Axiom are terrible in mud and gravel even in TOD mode. They slip and slide like crazy. I am concerned how it will perform in snow because here in MT, the tires need to be able to perform well in the snow. The thing is, there aren't much All Terrain of real offroad tires to choose from when you have a rather odd size like 235/65/17. Does anyone know the maximum tire diameter which can go on the Axiom without lifting mods?
Check out tirerack.com, they should list the different tires you can get for the Axiom, but you are right, the choices for All Terrain will probably be limited due to the 17 inch rims. If you plan on doing a lot of serious offroading, I am sure many people would recommend you replace the stock wheels with something else.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Sorry, I did not mean to promote racing, it just sort of happened. Let's call it: "we both wanted to get to the next red light first."
-mike
Happy 4th
I have now installed several of these Axiom accessories and would like those of you who haven't to know how easy or difficult this can be.
That is, some accessories were pretty easy to put in and others were fairly challenging, with less-than-perfect results. OK, let me give it to you straight: most of them were a pain to install, but I am too cheap to pay others to do this, and am mechanically and electrically skilled enough to be ashamed if I didn't do it myself.
So, I took on the challenge. Here are the results:
1. The Mudflaps- the mudflaps are a nightmare. I would pay someone else to install them and then monitor the results. There are no predrilled holes here to make this easier (WHAT were the Isuzu engineers thinking on this one?), and you actually have to drill 3 small holes in the fiberglass of your new vehicle on each side just to install the rear flaps. I have not yet installed the front mud flaps. Why? They're even worse! Not only do you have to drill holes, but you have to drill HUGE holes, then place these expandable nutsert sleeve things in each giganto-hole, then run a special 11 mm bolt into and out of each sleeve to expand it, then bolt each flap on. Times 3 holes per front flap. Awful task to attach some hard rubber mud flaps to fiberglass. I am contemplating using Liquid Nails instead. I don't think I'm abnormal when I say that I am squeamish about drilling 6 BIG holes in the fiberglass to mount the front mud flaps! (What were those engineers thinking? And it appears that they avoided reusing existing bolts/screws that are already existant in the same area where the mud flaps get installed.)
2. The Fog light kit: This one was moderately easy to install. The instructions, though, are overkill. The kit is a nice one and is complete in every respect. There is a matching switch that mounts in the dashboard, and a prewired connector/wiring harness hidden behind the dashboard, making this a plug-n-play endeavor. Very well thought out. The team at Isuzu who designed this accessory should work on the mud flaps. You do have to unscrew the hood latch, removing two screws on it and another screw nearby and you have to remove the portion of the dash that is underneath the steering column and behind where the hood latch attaches. YOU DO NOT have to remove the rubber door moulding like the instructions state - this is ridiculous. In fact, I could not get mine to come loose fortunately, as this is not needed anyway. Folks, don't pull off the rubber door molding if you don't have to!
The kit works great, too. I don't like the round design of them - I would have preferred rectangular fog lights in keeping with the style of the hood/grill, but they did not consult with me on this ahead of time. However, know this: these lights are super bright! They light up the whole road! You could do a photo shoot on the surface of the moon with the lumens these babies put out. I was very surprised.
3. Bra (nose mask for the politically correct out there): Fits well, clumsy to install, but it's a weird grill, friends. No instructions came with mine, as I bought it on EBay, so I figured it out without the instructions. I guess this means it is idiot-proof.
4. Roof Rack: Another nightmare Axiom lovers! BEWARE THE ROOF RACK! I have logged 10 man hours to date on the roof rack and it is still not 100% right. This is a poorly designed accessory Isuzu engineers! What were you guys smoking?
Why do I criticise this accessory- the most needed accessory for the Axiom in my opinion, and the most expensive one, too? It is a pain in the %@* to install, friends. It is well worth the $300 I was quoted to install this darned thing.
For starters, it is not for the weak of heart. You have to remove by hand the nice chrome rain gutter strips that run down both sides of your vehicle's roof. Most of the clips will likely break during this tug-of-war that is involved,and this really requires two people to do. Also, you may scratch your vehicle with the stepladder that is a required tool for this task. But, that is not the worst part by far. There is an insane task you have to do. Dig this:
YOU HAVE TO TAKE A HACKSAW and cut off the frontmost 235 MM of each chrome strip. These cut-off chrome strips have to be reused to complete the installation! (This is the worst idea I have every heard of. ISUZU ENGINEERS are you listening! this is a bad idea!) Now, I am talking about sawing up a multi-sided chrome strip with clips attached, not a flat piece of metal. And this stuff is hard to cut, even with a new blade.
But that's not all. The instructions state 235 mm, but this does not mean measuring from the very end of the strip. NO NO. You will be off by about 5-10 mm if you do that. They really mean 235 mm from the end of the first rubber flap at the end of the chrome strip. Take a look and you will see what I mean. It is hard to describe. But, I was very frustrated that I spent almost $400 on the roof rack and it did not include new 235 mm chrome strips. I had to make them with my hacksaw???!!!!
But, there's more. While the good engineers thought to include 12 nutserts from the factory embedded in the roof itself, they did not mention that the roof rack would not install easily. Or that you would have to have a #30 torx screwdriver made of titanium to install the screws, or that you would have to add clear RTV silicone to the holes, etc. And, in my case, a couple of the screws were no good, and just would not thread into the holes. I had to take them to the dealer in my area, who was nice enough to order the hardware kit (screws kit) for me, and replace them under warranty. They were improperly threaded out of the bag.
So, step 4 after uncovering the holes where the nutserts lie, is to check each screw in a nutsert, one at a time, to make sure the threads are good before you try to install this thing.
Putting those hacksawed chrome strips back on the vehicle and getting them to stay on the vehicle and adhere to the rail in the rain gutter was not easy either. I finally realized (no thanks to the instructions) that it takes two clips for this 18" piece of cut off chrome strip to stay in position properly. Use a little dishsoap for lubricant if you are brave enough to try this at home!
When all is said and done the roof rack is a good looking accessory. This vehicle cries out for a roof rack. But, I have a final complaint, which many of you may think is sniveling. The roof rack is not a good fit. It does not sit well on the vehicle. The crossbars do not sit completely flush in the roof rack rails. It's as if the roof rack cross bar rails are a smidge too wide from the factory, preventing the cross bar clamps from seating properly in the tracks. Probably off by 5 mm again.
Isuzu engineers should have to get out of the office and install these hands on, so they can see how bad this accessory's design really is.
Last, but not least, why not just include this as a standard accessory in future models? Install the roof rack at the factory? This makes a lot more sense than having customers use their hacksaws on their new vehicles. WHAT WERE YOU GUYS THINKING??
At least the body side moulding looks easy...
Anybody want to buy a pair of front mud flaps?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Last weekend I loaded up some fence post that were to long for the cargo area and had to rope the rear door down (there needs to be some anchors mounted to the door!!!). While driving home I noticed a very distinct sulfuric smell fill the cabin. I took a look with the vehicle running and the smell was coming out of the tailpipe. As far as I know, they don't generally undercoat the inside of the tailpipe
Any thoughts on this? Should I be trying another dealer? Out on the lot they treat the Isuzus like third class citizens and throw them in the back row (all 6 of them) behind the used cars. I don't know how long they'll even remain an Isuzu dealer with this attitude.
Thanks for the advice.
The brakes are probably from either the Trooper or Rodeo, but I believe the ABS problems associated with the Rodeo were for MY 99 and earlier. Also, your problem doesn't sound like the same as the Rodeo's problem. That problem seemed to be that the ABS would kick in on road irregularities and not release, thus increasing stoping distance. If you feel a vibration only while braking, it is likely that you have a warped rotor. If you have a 4WD, you have disk brakes all the way around, but if you have a 2wd you only have them on the front. You could always get a brake inspection from Midas. You pay once and they will inspect the brakes for free everytime after that for as long as you own your car.
Its a shame that your dealer isn't taking care of your problems promptly. You should try another dealer if you find one.
Good luck
I'm using 90 octane Ethanol (I'm in Nebraska), so I'll try using a non ethanol gas for a while. My milage is around 15-16 in town and 19 with 50/50 mixed driving. I picked up something at the autoparts store to run through the tank (seafoam). Thought maybe I'd try it before I got really worried.
And my brake noises are going away! Between when I wrote my last message and today it's become somewhat quiet, not completely gone, but much more quiet. I don't take my Ax in until Wednesday so I'll give some time.
Thanks for the help!!
To get the key to remove, I have to do the following:
1. Press the shift lever button in and move it further into the Park position.
2. Rotate the key from the 'stuck' position, back towards start and then back to the Off position.
3. Sometimes I have to do step 1 & 2 more than once to get the key to rotate to the Off position, so I can remove it.
This is starting to get annoying. I have tried squeezing a little ultra fine graphite powder into the lock's keyhole, but this made no difference. It instead seems to be related to either the key or the shifter, probably the shifter.
Has anyone else experienced this, or have advice? I am the type that dreads going to dealers, for fear they will do more harm than good, but this one has me baffled at the moment.
Kokomo. I've heard this problem before. It's the shift-interlock, Dealer can fix it for you as was stated by cmuniz it's a mis-aligned shifter.
-mike
My mileage is based on 2wd, here in Nebraska we haven't had rain (or snow) in the last month or so. There have been no opportunities to try out my TOD. Because the mileage has been so good, I tend to rule out a bad o2 sensor and go with the high sulfate content theory. We'll see what the dealership comes up with this time.
As a side note, my brakes were only quiet for a day and have now come back full force with the noise.
At this point most people would give up on a truck and feel really disappointed, I'm still very happy with my purchase. I really enjoy driving my Axiom. Once these minor things are squared away, I'm looking forward to many years of service.
When it comes to regular maintenance on your Isuzus, are you folks doing every little thing at every recommended interval? I've put a couple hundred thousand miles on my vehicles without doing a lot of the extras like diff. fluid changes, lifter adjustment etc. I do oil changes every 5000 miles with mobile 1 synthetic, and change my filters regularly (air,oil,fuel), and spark plugs when recommended. I just want to make sure I don't void my warrantee because I missed some little adjustment. And also, can I have someone local do my adjustments while under warrantee? It would save me 2 hours on the road and a long wait at the dealership. Any thoughts are always appreciated.
Greg
-mike
I am beginning to hear a clunking sound from the rear when I turn into driveways raised off street level. It makes the sound whether I am going forward or reverse only if I am turning as I go over the bump. If I go straight over the bump, I don't hear it. The rear hatch is the only thing I can think of. Any other ideas?
So, I went to partscheap.com and ordered the factory chrome-plated Isuzu Rodeo Sidesteps instead, and vowed to attempt to customize them to fit my Axiom- which is exactly what I did.
Now, this is not a project for the faint of heart, or the non-mechanically inclined. Here's what's involved:
First, I paid $366 plus shipping for the side steps from partscheap.com ($160 off list). (This is a nice kit with all the parts and fairly decent instructions, but moderately difficult to install.)
Next, I sized up the fit on the Axiom. As Paisan had intimated, the fit might not be a good one, due to the added ground effects on the Axiom. He was right (again). The standard brackets that ship with the $400 side step kit will not work as is. This took me to step 3.
Third, I took the brackets to a local welding and fabrication shop for customization. I had them extend the horizontal arm on each bracket by 3.0 inches each, based on my initial measurements. These brackets are made of heavy aluminum, so they had to cut and weld an extension and add an auxiliary 'scab plate' for structural integrity. They did a real nice job and an Elephant could stand on each bracket now, no problem. Cost was $150 for the set, with 2 hours welding/fab time at $55 hour. (This may be cheaper elsewhere).
4th, I had to now repaint the brackets, which had bare aluminum in the middle, rather than the normal factory black anodized paint finish. At the advice of FinishMaster, I got some mineral spirits to clean the aluminum and some self-etching black primer paint. This worked well, but the paint did not stick well the first round, so I had to do a 2nd round of self-etching primer and then oven-cure the brackets at 300 deg F for 20 minutes. This worked good, but made my wife mad as hell at me. Stunk up the whole house, too.
5th, came the installation itself. It was not a pleasant experience. The instructions stupidly advise you to put the brackets on the side steps and then mount the entire assembly, brackets and all to these pre-drilled plates by the body shocks underneath the vehicle. Bad idea. Do not attempt this at home. Mount the brackets on the vehicle first, and then line up and attache the tubes. Works much easier. Only an engineer would come up with such bad idea.
After a little struggle, I now have shiny chrome side steps installed on my vehicle and am getting even more compliments on it than before. Looks way cool, if I do say so myself.
Isuzu engineers pay heed: If you choose to make factory brackets for side steps for the Axiom, please extend the ones from the Rodeo vertically by 1/2 inch and horizontally by 4 inches. This would be the best fit, although my custom bracket is a good fit, just a little too snug. If I had it to do over.... (On 2nd thought, once was enough for me).
In any case, now my vehicle looks like I wanted it to. I can send JPEGs photos later to those who really, really, are interested, and send me an email. Thought you would enjoy my experience, though.
Also on a side note, if you guys want some steps for around $350, talk to matt @ http://independent4x.com he'll fab em up for you custom fit, all you'll need to do is get a local welder to weld em for you. He made mine which i finally had installed!
-mike
Do you have any pics of your axiom? I would love to see them if you do!
Thanks!
I will probably try the coil-rites whether or not I replace the shocks. They list an application for the Axiom and should really help when the Axiom is loaded up with people and gear or towing. I am also hoping that I could control the ride better by leaving the ISC in comfort mode and adjusting the coil-rites to increase the firmness of of the ride.
I also wonder if the ISC dummy light will be constantly on if the ISC shocks are replaced.
-Adam
Glad to see they are making stuff for the Axiom though.
-mike
I plan to remove the bulb if it is going to stay on. I just hope this will eliminate the jiggling and the bobbling on the pavement rides.
Will let you know how it is later today! So stay tuned!
The dealer will probably charge me 2hrs labor.
The dealer just gave me a call on the progress
and told me that they called the Isuzu America technician whether this shock swap is technically feasible. The Isuzu America tech told the dealer that it was going to cause all sorts of problems.... ABS lights to turn on, Engine warning light to go on, etc etc. In other words,
the Isuzu tech suggested the dealers not to do the swap.... Can you believe that?
I am choosing to do this swap only because Isuzu
did not respond to my ( should say "our" )
problems and claims! I have asked my dealer to disengage the wire harness from the ISC and see what happens on the dash lights.
If all the ABS and Engine warning and unexpected
lights come on like the Isuzu Tech says ,
then we may have a problem with this swap.
Paisan> Your friend who swapped his ISC with Bilsteins, can you ask him what problems he might have had when he changed his shocks?
The other option is to leave the ISC shocks or part of them abandonned in place to eliminate the ISC light.
My guess is that you can get it off. I had a similar problem with my XT6 that has air-suspension. When I disconnected it a light came on. I eventually found the correct wire on the air-pump to disconnect and then the light went out.
-mike
-mike
-Ryan