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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • mickiedmickied Posts: 1
    I recently bought an '01 Pathy LE with the In-Dash 6 CD changer. The CD Changer has broken. 4 CDs are stuck in the changer, I cannot eject them & I cannot play them. It simply makes a noise like its trying to change the disc, but is caught on something. I've been to the website, but am not sure if its worth all of this. On that website I couldn't find any indication that they have the same player that I do (Factory Bose). Obviously, the dealer has told me that it would cost between $400-$800. Should I just try to remove the Changer from my dash myself and get the CDs out? Has anyone had this issue before?
  • norbertnorbert Posts: 1
    i got the same problemwith my cd ,cannot load cd or eject (i think one cd is still inside if u have any ideas how to help me pleaseee reply?
  • juboogsjuboogs Posts: 1
    for the past few weeks when i go to start my car after it has been cooled off for more then a few hours, it will take a few seconds for it to start. it makes a whistling noise and then starts. almost like when you start the car in the winter on a really cold day.

    I have a 2003 nissan pathfinder.

    someone told me to put gumout ( fuel injection cleaner) into my gas tank when it is empty and fill it up. I did this and nothing changed

    Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • bheckbheck Posts: 8
    i had the same problem. so i slid underneath and started shaking everything i could get my habds on. foundthe problem. it was the exhaust shrouds. the peices of metal that are wrapped around the exhaust. i would be very surprised if it isnt it. let me know
  • jambo05jambo05 Posts: 7
    Glad you mentioned it. It seemed as thought anytime the rear tire hit a small bump, there would be a rattle. I will tell the dealership as they told me they couldn't find it. I will write about my findings when done. Thanks! :)
  • jambo05jambo05 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. I will have the dealership check it out! I will keep you posted! :)
  • Does anyone have a method to replace the odometer light (by the lcd) without taking the whole dashboard off? My mechanic gave me a huge estimate just to change this in labor. Its not a critical component but annoying when its night and you can't see the miles driven. Thanks!
  • If you find the fix, please let me know as I have the same problem!

  • On May 18, I took my 2003 PF in for service as per the service manual.
    I also wanted them to remove and rotate the spare tire. I also had a list of concerns I wanted to address to the dealership.

    1) Shifting from R-N-D, delay when D is actually engaged. Dealer said: Normal, transmission fine at this time.
    2) Steering/front end 'knocking' sound when straightening steering wheel and driving away. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.
    3) Hard shift from first to second gear. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate problem.
    4) Front right side rattling noise from passenger side while accelerating. Dealer said: Unable to duplicate.

    So, I paid for the work performed and left. While driving home, I heard the rattling noise as usual. The next day (the 19th) I washed my car and noticed the wheel balancing weights were not present on the wheel. The spare tire is on a plain spare rim so they had to remove the tire off the rim and swap it with one of the rear tires. When they re-installed the right rear tire, I suspected they did not balance the tire. So I called the dealer right away. I told her about the balancing and persistent rattle noise. I brought my car in on the 24th and they balanced the wheel, then, I drove my car with the mechanic in the passenger seat and with the window rolled down. I duplicated the rattle problem several times (because the mechanic didn't hear it at first, but then he did). Upon arrival back to the dealer, he got out and stuck his head underneath the right side while I reved the engine at about 4000 rpms. Once again the rattle was heard. He put it up on the hoist and removed what looked like the catalytic converter, replaced it (under warranty) and off we went for another ride. Guess what happened ? Rattle, rattle, rattle !!! Put the car back on the hoist and this time I was underneath the car with the mechanic and warranty manager. He showed me the old part, shook it in his hands and sounded like there was some debris in it. Also showed me the heat sheilds around the exhaust and muffler. Some of it is welded to the components and some of it is bolted. There were no loose parts, however these sheilds are flexible when wiggled by hand. To this day, I haven't heard this rattle any more even after trying to duplicate it. Problem solved ??? Coincidence ??? Who knows. At least I got a new catalytic converter out of it or as they wrote on the invoice "Replace one front exhaust tube". I think the important thing is to 'get it all in writing'. Make sure the dealer writes everything on the work order, even if nothing is duplicated, they have to say so on the bill when you pay. So if a problem does get worse, you can show 'em your bill and say "I told ya something was wrong". :D

    In post #1522 about the rear plate, I bought some plastic/nylon washers and used them as spacers between the paint and plate. Now the plate does not contact and scuff the paint even when you slam the hatch down.
  • acbriskeracbrisker Posts: 4
    1) SES light activation will prevent passing the inspection. Try filling up with quality name brand gas of at least 89 octane and give it about two weeks. Make sure gas cap is tight. Pull codes for free at Autozone. Let us know what code came back.


    My girlfriend took the car to Jiffy Lube ... was going to have an oil change done ... the oil was clean though ... they ran the code on the SES light, and the only thing she can remember is they told her "lean" and something to do with oxygen in the gas tank. We've been running 91+ octane for every tank of gas (except 1 -- 89 octane), and the light is still on. It went off for about 1-2 days after Jiffy Lube ran the code.

    It's scheduled to be inspected tomorrow ... keeping my fingers crossed.

    Does anyone know about some code referring to 'lean?'

  • rs4rs4 Posts: 25
    That would be helpul. I too will post after the service is done Thanks
  • jambo05jambo05 Posts: 7
    Thought I'd share...I went back to the dealership and made an appointment. The service department is great...they said they would be more than glad to check it out again. I shared with them the thoughts of both the loose parking brake cable and the shrouds of the exhaust system. They said they would check it out when it came in for repair. Well, I decided to just try out the loose parking brake cable idea by going over bumps and slightly applying the parking brake to put tension on the cable. NO RATTLE SOUND! I did it for several more miles and found that the rattle came back after I released the parking brake yet it stopped when I tightened the cable line. Now all I have to do is take it in to have service tighten the cable line. Thanks to all for the ideas! :)
  • rustan92rustan92 Posts: 1
    I am removing the body from my rusted frame on my 1992 Pathfinder and installing it on a better frame.....has anyone ever done this before and could you tell me what is involved and how to go about doing it.

  • john76john76 Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Pathfinder, It has about 145,000 miles on it. While out running an errand a few weels ago, I turned the corner at a light the engine stalled. I took it and had the fuel pump serviced. It drove fine for a week but, now it has started again. Now in the mornings I start it up and it sits and sputters and smokes a little. The idle is really low and seems to surge up and down. ( always extremely low) At stops, it seems to cut off almost always now. It always fires right back up if I throw it in neutral and turn the keys. Anybody know whats going on with this?
  • be021be021 Posts: 2
    I have an '01SE and have the same problem. I think I located the where it comes from. I opened the driver side door and watched as the water poured down the pillar on the side of the dash. It seems to be coming from the seal on the windshield. That or leaking from my sunroof down into the crack. I'm going to try to take the trim off and trace the problem. It's becoming a huge problem since, it rains everyday in Orlando.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    If the fuel pump was serviced, it may have stirred up stuff in the fuel tank which clogged the fuel filter. Try replacing the fuel filter.
  • jambo05jambo05 Posts: 7
    An update...stopped by the dealership today to just mention the parking brake idea. Even though I had an appointment next week, they took me right away (this dealership, Woodbury Nissan in Woodbury, New Jersey is GREAT!). Anyhow, I showed the service manager the problem and he had the tech remove the tire and the disc brake mechanism. He found that there was a piece that is driven by the parking brake cable to be loose, creating a rattle. He thought something was not right. He had the tech apply some brake grease to the area to see if it would soften the sound. It eliminated it for now. The service manager plans on notifying Nissan Engineering of the situation to see if there is something else that needs to be done. I will keep all posted. :)
  • triton88triton88 Posts: 4

    First let me say that this forum is great. So much infor and help! Especially from

    I have a 97 Pathfinder with 98k. When the engine runs or after I park it, I smell coolant. I've had it to the dealer and had the clooling system flushed and there are no leaks. The temperature is normal, so I don't think its overheating. I had the timing belt replaced at 71k and the dealer told me the water pump was fine. Of course it could be on shaky ground now. I also had my Check Engine light come up and I took it to AutoZone and they could only come up with a Evap Cannister or sensor. It was cleared then came back and has since gone away.Problem gone????? Yeah right!!! Will there be problems with and ODBII inspection? How much is it to replace one or both of them and can I do it myself ?


  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621

    For future reference, the Pathfinder timing belt replacement interval is 105,000 miles. If you were led to believe it needed replacement earlier, you were misled by an unknowledgable mechanic. What's unfortunate is that, even though the water pump was fine, it's usually a good idea to replace it when the timing belt service is performed, since the labor to get to it is the same.

    With regard to coolant odor, can you tell where the smell is coming from? One possibility is shown below. Open the hood and look at the area immediately below the throttle body. See pic:

    The pink highlighted device controls the idle speed when the engine is cold. The device (I'm not sure of the name) contains a thermal wax that prevents the plunger from moving (maintaining a faster idle) until engine heat melts the wax. My truck at one time had a small leak from this device, but it eventually sealed itself up. :confuse: If you see wetness, corrosion, or evidence of a coolant leak below that device (blue highlighted area) that could be the problem. It usually doesn't leak enough to show up as drips on the ground ,but since the exhaust manifold is directly beneath it, any coolant that leaks from there will vaporize, hence, the smell.

    Finally, the EVAP canister is located beneath the truck behind the left rear wheel well. Its function is to store gas fumes from the fuel tank until the engine is started, at which time a valve in the engine bay opens, venting the fumes into the intake to be burned. The canister and the valve attached to the canister (I replaced both) costs ~$170 (check or for the best prices). The EVAP canister is relatively easy to replace: a screwdriver, pliers, and some sockets were all that were needed.

    Note: if any of the hoses around the canister seem "crunchy" when you squeeze them, that's a bad sign. It means the carbon in the canister has broken down and been sucked through the EVAP lines. The fix is far more complicated, but is still doable if you have an air compressor and some time. :shades:
  • zep042zep042 Posts: 1
    I had a local shop put struts, timing belt, and stabilizer links in my 2000 pathfinder. They called me today and when they were pulling off the main belt pully with using the correct tools, the treads pulled out and they needed to re-drill it and try it again. After all was done, they still couldn't get the pully off and they can't drill and re-tap, so they cut it off and need to charge me $375 to replace it. Has anyone had is same problem?
  • I'm trying to find where the wiring for the horn is located under the hood. Can you help?
  • migvmigv Posts: 2
    My 2000 Pathfinder makes a "CLUNK" noise when i depress the gas pedal from a complete stop. It only happens when accelerating the vehicle from a complete stop. Can this be the brakes ? Anyone with this problem?

    suggestions will be appreciated.
  • cmdrtucmdrtu Posts: 2
    Hello, i have the same problem with my LE 2002 as well, when you got yours fix, will you let me know as well ? Thanks

    tuan :(
  • cmdrtucmdrtu Posts: 2

    I just replaced my 2002 Pathfinder OEM 's horn. It locates right in front of the radiator at the approx 10-12 inches from the hood latch.

  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    On my 2001 PF the low pressure AC refrigerant hose that runs from the compressor to the cooling unit is leaking where it attaches to the metal piping. Does anyone know what type of clamp (for lack of a better term) this uses? I can't figure out how to tighten it or what to replace. Thanks...
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Posts: 7
    Ugh, had my 05 Pathfinder for 5 days (250 Miles) and today it is pouring out. Whenever i take a right turn water leaks into the passenger side. Looks like it is coming from under the dash. Anyone have any ideas? I have called the dealership and they are treating it like it's nothing. They wanted me to bring it in next week!! I told them it is supposed to rain all week and that i wanted it fixed ASAP. They won't even give me a loaner. Anyone have the leaking problem and know what was done to fis it?

  • kaoskaos Posts: 2
    I'm guessing that this is water draining from you AC. (are you running the AC when this is happening?)

    PROBLEM: there is an area underneath your vehicle, in the firewall where there should be a hole, hose, or pipe coming out. This allows the water off the AC to drain outside. It can become plugged (somehow) and the water has nowhere to drain. When you make sharp turns it spills out of wherever it is into the inside of the car.

    SOLUTION: Find this drain and unclog it.

    Hope this helps!
  • trbochrgtrbochrg Posts: 7
    HI Thanks for the reply, that is the first thing the dealer asked me. The AC has not been running, we picked up the car last Thursday and we have only run the AC once or twice just to figure out how to use the climate controls. IT was raining and 60 degrees out yesterday so we had not been using the AC when this was happening.

    Hopefully it is something as simple as a clogged hose. I am just upset with the way the dealer who sold me the car kind of brushed it off. This is a ~$30,000 vehicle, brand new, and he made it out to be something trivial (granted, it isn't a blown transmission, but it is an annoyance)
  • jambo05jambo05 Posts: 7
    I too had a problem with a 1980 Toyota Corolla and found that whenever I would turn right, water would come gushing from under the dash. Found out later that it was the drain tube from the A/C which was clogged. Needless to say, it was an easy fix and a headache relieved. Check it out! :)
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    If you selected the "defrost" or "demist" function you also turn on the A/C. It's used to remove humidity in that case. If not, then there is a leak - possibly a drain hose for the sun roof (on many vehicles the hose runs down the "A" pillers). Also check the cowl vent - it's possible something has fallen inside and that could cause water to pool and flow into the air intake for the cabin.

    Or it could just be a manufacturing defect - sealant gap on windshield or body.

    It's the dealers resposibility to find and correct and the manufacturers resposibility to pay the dealer to do so.
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