I like my 99 Protege LX a lot! Just turned 15,000 a few days ago and it's still running great! Only thing I would want is to get an ES. Too bad the Mazda dealer here is trying to rip me off for one. Lloyd Nissan is selling a 2001 Sentra SE w/ Sunroof, Side Air Bags, ABS, 180-Watt Sound System and Microfilter here for only $15,800. [Cheaper than my 99 LX w/o rebate!!] I may just have to go snatch it up!
borfg, I read your previous post #687 that you had a really good deal on your 2001 ES 2.0 w/ prem pkg. You paid for a total of $15357 with tax. and lic included? Where did you get yours? I am interested in getting a Pro ES and just joined the EAA yesterday to get the S-plan. Does anyone know of a good place to get it in the Bay Area in California? Thanks Ariel
How did the Mazda dealer try to rip you off on a '01.
The invoice on the Sentra SE that the dealer's selling for $15,800 is (assuming with freight and it's a 5-sp) $13624 (base) + $540 (freight) + $519 (Power Sunroof) +$606 (SAB/ABS) + $31 (Microfilter) +$172 (180-watt Stereo) = $15,492. So it's $308 over invoice.
The invoice on a '01 ES is $14,525 (base) + $480 (freight) + $1,296 (Premium Package - Carpet floor mats, Glass electric front sunroof, Front-wheel ABS, Front side airbag) = $16301. $16,301 - $237 (S-Plan) - $750 rebate = $15,314.
The ES has floormats that the SE doesn't have, but without the 180-watt stereo and microfilter.
The Mazda dealer here (Buzz Leonard Mazda) doesn't want to go below MSRP. They are just in the business to make money, you can tell that right from their attitude. I wasn't at the dealer for five minutes, and they were already trying to get me inside and 'work out the numbers'. Once they found out there were no ES 5-spds in the area, they suddenly started pushing me to get an automatic. They kept giving me all these reasons to get an auto: Easier to drive in city, cheaper to repair (yeah right), better gas mileage (was he on drugs?), etc etc. I was like, look mister, I AM THE ONE that is going to drive it! If you don't like manuals, then so be it! I am not going to invest in a car that costs $18K just so they can make a huge profit on the thing!!!
The Nissan dealer is willing to work with me and they can get me the car around $15.5 to $15.8K. Plus, I'm not too fond of the 2001 Protege's front styling, and I like the interior of the Sentra much more. Back seat space is not a concern for me. My insurance premiums will be cheaper with the Sentra, too. Also, safety is important, and the Sentra got a higher score in the offset IIHS crash test.
Anyway, my sister has 2000 ES and needs to replace two tires ASAP, she says the only tires she can get on short notice are made by Nito. They seem to be an after-market specialty/performance company, but I can't find much else about them. Have you heard anything about them? I haven't seen the tires, but I'm guessing they might be made for performance, not all weather driving etc.
Mine just turned 1.5 years old, with 13k and its great! I have the 5-spd ES, and the only qualm I have with it is the slight squeaking in the driver-side door post. Other than that, no problems.
Yes. The most important thing is buy what you need and/or want. If you like the Sentra better, be it safety, styling or whatever, then buy that. My point was the Sentra currently has no price advantage over the Protege (subject to change due to rebates), assuming you can find a dealer that will accept the S-Plan pricing. If there's no 5-sp in your area, then it doesn't matter if you like the Protege better. OTOH, it's always possible that you can find a more accommodating dealer in locating a 5-sp.
Car issue in the mail today. Seems they used a 99 model in some of their stats. Their little blurb about the 2001 is basically the same wording as for the 2000 except insert 2.0 where 1.8 was. They probably haven't even tested one yet. Gave the 2k ford focus a lot of average and above ratings in reliability ??? Makes me question the validity of some of the other information contained here.
The fact that the 2000 Focus received a lot of "average and above ratings" in reliability does not mean CR thinks it's a reliable vehicle. Several years ago, CR changed its "trouble-spot" reliablity rating system from a relative scale to an absolute scale. Therefore, those are not average, above average, etc. A model 2000 receiving an "empty circle" in a category is not good. Note the "Reliability Verdict" rating. This is still a relative rating. The 2000 Focus received a "No-Check" rating which is "Worse-than-average". Stangely a "Black" check means average and a "Red" check means better-than-average.
I have 1100 miles on my silver 2001 Protoge ES 5sp. I paid $15,400 not including the low 5.5% sales tax in WI for it (no options) without the S-plan which isn't bad considering they gave me the 0% financing (which ran out in Feb on 01 Protoges) and they had to locate the vehicle. I just had the windows tinted 35% with platinum charcoal llumar tint. It looks really classy. Overall I am impressed by the little german wannabe. The shift nob looks like it came from a VW Golf, the C-pillar looks like an old C class benz, the tailights are similiar to the Audi A4's, and the all black interior with red illumination is a teutonic copy (or pontiac if you are a pessimist) I'll post a picture as soon as I get a digital camera.
I'm going to see a dealer who told me over the phone that he has quite a few 2000 LX's still to choose from. He told me that they're getting a special incentive to get these out the door. I didn't ask him yet what kind of incentive it is and nothing is listed under the "dealer incentive" section in this website. Does anyone know what kind of incentives dealers get for getting rid of the 2000 models? How much would I expect to pay in relation to dealer invoice?? The 0% financing applies to these as well so I'm hoping it can lead to good deal...
The rebates on the 2000 models was $1500 the last time I checked. Check out the rebates section right here on Edmund's website, and also CarsDirect.com (http://www.carsdirect.com) for more information.
Say it ain't so! You are going to look at a Sentra and leave all us Protege lovers for a car that looks like a cigar from the back? That really does suck. Wish you the best of luck though.
Your dealer's correct about ONE (and ONLY one) thing. The automatic DOES get better gas mileage than the 5-speed. I know from experience. My 2000 ES 5-speed routinely gets 3-4 mpg LOWER than my friend's identical 2000 ES (except his is an automatic), because of the fact that his final drive ratio is lower -- he's turning about 3,000 rpms at 70 mph whereas I'm turning 3,500.
I know it sounds crazy -- but the autos do get better gas mileage, at least with the 1.8 liter engine.
Meade, I think the difference in mileage that you experience is related to driving habits. If you baby your 5spd, you'll get better gas mileage than he can. I assume he got the automatic as he is a less aggressive driver and the converse is true for most M/T buyers.
Mazda's EPA estimates for the 2000 1.8L: M/T 26 city/30 hwy A/T 24 city/29 hwy
Most importantly Meade, have fun and keep the 5-speed.
Never mind the back seat, what about the front seat?.....I test drove the sentra and found it cramped all around. I had a nissan frontier that I loved, but I hated the sentra. The interior of the sentra is boaring and cheap. It has econo-box written all over it. I love the protege and would not give it up for a sentra. You may not need the back seat now, but who knows what the future holds. The sentra also looks ugly from the back. It looks like a mini-me maxima. Ewwwww. The sentra is also made in the USA ( can you say cheap parts?). The protege is 100% japan made and built. That says a lot!!!!
Some people don't get automatic because they want less fun. I got automatic because I do alot of city driving and can't drive, talk on the cell phone, and play with the radio at the same time. Just kidding. It's more convenient with the automatic for me though.
BTW, my 2001 ES 2.0 has almost 1600 miles already, and still loving it!
I guess I have hyper-sensitive ears, but when my cruise control is on and I have the windows rolled up and the radio OFF (i.e. I can hear things), I can hear a tick-tick-tick noise coming from behind the glove box area in the dash. My wife has confirmed this from the passenger seat. It goes away when I disengage the cruise control and comes right back the second I re-engage it. No big deal, but it's kind of funny to listen to really. I'd be curious to see if anybody else has heard or can hear it.
Cruise: When I turn on the cruise control with the master switch, I hear one "click", but never heard the rest of them. Of course, I never leave the cruise on for a long time and I NEVER drive without the radio on either.
1.8 vs. 2.0: I drove a 2000 ES for one day, because the dealer wanted me to buy that leftover 2000 model instead of a new 2001. I felt a little difference at low speeds, but not alot. The 2.0 feels like it has more power at low speeds (below 4000 rpm) than the 1.8 did. I hardly go above 4000-4500 rpm when accelerating from a stop in first gear. The car seems to have plenty of power.
Sorry; I've been out of the loop for a while. At the chance of boring a lot of the regulars here, may I ask if you'd give me a quick run-down of your 2001 ... Since I know you owned a '99 DX I'd like to hear your opinions of the differences (beyond engine performance, of course.)
The 2001 is alot nicer than the 1999 was. I have all the power equipment now, the seats are alot more comfortable (without the bulge in the lower back), and I like the new styling touches as well. A couple people here at work mistook my 2001 Protege for a BMW the other day. Boy, did that make me feel good! And at half the price, too!
The performance is different definitely. The handling is a little better, more in part of the bigger tires that hold longer when cornering. The brakes (4-wheel disc with ABS on my ES, vs. disc/drum without on the DX I had) are alot better. I hardly have to step on them now, and the car stops dead. Before, it felt sometimes like I wasn't going to stop in time and I was also always afraid of skidding in the rain. However, the driver's seat doesn't seem to to back as far as it did in my DX though. It's roomy enough for me, but still noticeably closer to the wheel when all the way back, to me anyway.
BTW, Meade, it's Black Mica if you didn't know. And it's automatic with cassette and the Premium Pkg.
Is it possible the response of the automatic gets better over time? (there is a previous comment mentioning this a bit)
I'm still doing break-in (550 km) and the relatively minor 'lag' in acceleration when hitting the gas seems to be decreasing. The transmission seems to have real brains (not any extra up/down shifting) compared to other cars, my previous automatic experience being my '90 Corsica (yuk, don't miss it) and plenty of later model rental cars (Sunbird, Contour, Thunderbird, Malibu, etc).
BTW, my first car was a GLC 5-speed sport(showing my age a bit here) and the ES has the same signal light/ headlight switch as the GLC! I think the wiper/mist switch is the same but I can't remember if there was intermittent wipers.
I think the tick you hear is the relay that activitates that cruise control machinerey. I hear a tick as well from the glove box when I press the on/off button but I don't recall hearing the tick again after that. Anyways, it all works on relays just like the fuel pump and other things like that.
It's been a while since I've been on these boards. Hello to everyone...
My odometer just turned past the 35,000 miles mark and I figure I'll give everyone an update on my Protege!
1999 Mazda Protege ES 5-spd, Classic Red
Accessories/parts added since new: 28% Fully metallized titanium tint on rear doors and rear glass 33% Fully metallized titanium tint on front doors Momo chrome/leather shift knob Mazda front and rear mud flaps Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" 205/50R15 tires Midas front brake pads Bosch +4 spark plugs
This car has been an absolute blast to drive for the past 25 months. I bought the car at John Hine Mazda in San Diego for $14,800 after the $500 rebate and discounts. This was one of three ES models which were the dealership's first shipment of ES's. It has two options on it: cassette player and carpeted floor mats. I wish I would have waited for the ES Premium Package, but I like the car as it is.
The Classic Red paint has held up extremely well. It has been polished once and waxed about once every 3-4 months. It is still shiny and reflective and shows no sign of oxidation (a major problem with non-clear coated red paint such as this). The clear coated alloy wheels show no signs of peeling or corrosion. The light gray "ES Cloth" interior still looks new, but the light gray carpet is a pain to keep clean and I think my factory floor mats have just about had it. Dirt and mud and sand and grease have taken their toll on them. The floor mats themselves are still in decent condition, but the Protege embroidery is beginning to unravel. That new off-black interior sounds pretty appealing.
The original equipment tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE92 195/55R15) only lasted me about 17,000 miles. I replaced them at 19,000 miles with Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" 205/50R15's. The Bridgestone's were going to cost about $150 each, and I certainly was not impressed with the loud tread noise or the quick wear. The Nitto's provide better grip, are much quieter, and cheaper at $78 per tire. They also don't hydroplane as bad as the Bridgestone's did and I still have about 65% tread 16,000 miles later. The slightly wider tread-width and lower profile offers more crisp handling response and gives that car an even sportier appearance, particularly from the rear.
I replaced the spark plugs at 34,000 miles. I used the Bosch "Plus 4" spark plugs. They were a bit pricey ($5.99 each) and I was skeptical at first. However, I am getting slightly better gas mileage and the engine is running noticeably cooler and smoother. I replaced the air filter with a new Mazda air filter at 25,000 miles. I also change my oil every 3,000-4,000 miles since I drive that car pretty hard (the tach swings past 5,000rpm quite often).
The clutch is beginning to show signs of wear, but that is my driving for sure. Over rough roads, there are a few rattles from the front door panels, which have been noisy since new. The suspension is still very tight. I replaced the front brakes at 30,000 miles. I was cheap and didn't want to spend the extra money to have the dealership put new Mazda brake pads on it, so I went with Midas. I regret that very much. The Midas brake pads squeal like a Ford on a rainy day. Plus, they don't have the grip the Mazda pads did.
Overall, I am very happy with the car. It still runs very strong and smooth even with all of the abuse I put into it (actually, I think it likes it). The small rattles are expected in a car with this stiff of a ride. I only had one warranty repair on it: the windshield gasket was replaced at 5,000 miles because it was leaking. No problem since. After 35,000 miles, I still highly recommend the Mazda Protege to anyone looking for sporty, small sedan.
Some background/history, for the newer folks that post or lurk here at the Mazda Protege Discussion. Back in the days of Edmunds Town Hall's original "Mazda Protege" and "Mazda Protege 2" topics, two people were very active in those discussions, Tom Civiletti and Jerry Standefer. Not much later, jk111 came along and added his input. I applaud these folks, they are truly the "Founding Fathers" of the BEST sedan discussion at Town Hall. They set the tone for this awesome topic and I applaud them.
Good to hear from you! and good to hear your es is running well, as is my classic red '99 es 5-spd. I'll remember to stick with mazda pads on your advice [Did midas turn the rotors?] So far, my major maintainance spending has been the speeding ticket from a couple weeks ago.
Yes, there are a few buzzes in the front door/dash areas ocassionally, but not too serious.
Just bought a new 01 Protege ES automatic in Millenium Red with cassette and floor mats (trying to keep cost down). My dealer had to trade to get the red so he claims the other dealer gets the dealer 1.5% floor plan kickback from Mazda. So instead of the the normal 1.5% under invoice, I got the car at invoice. under the S plan. I didn't want to argue about it so I accepted the deal. Is he pulling a fast one on me?
Anyways, I'll be zoom zooming on Saturday.
Thanks to you guys for the EAA "S" plan info. It saved me a bunch of $!
I was wondering if the $750 recent graduate rebate affects the dealer at all. I would like to get pro es / gt pkg / auto $2000 below msrp (26,000), which would be around $24,000. I don't want him to say that he'd lose too much money because of the rebate...would he have a point? Where's the proof? Also, any Canadians know about this S-plan thing? Could we apply? Is it worth it? P.S. I love the flags!
The 15357 was the s-plan price plus texas inventory tax. We didn't have to pay sales tax because we are military out-of-state residents (soldiers/sailors relief act). We will have to pay AK license fees when we register it though. We bought from a dealer in Irving, TX.
For everyone: We just got back from a 1500 mile round trip to Colorado. What a pleasurable car to drive!! Our 01 ES makes that trip so much better! We averaged anywhere from 30-32 MPG (hwy) depending on the conditions and at speeds of 70-80. We did have a hair raising experience though... The weather wasn't the best (rain/snow/slush). As we were going up I-70 into the mountains our car started to overheat. I couldn't believe it, especially with a new car, and we had to pull over when the needle fastly approached "H". We let the car cool down then continued. Come to find out, the ENTIRE front of the car was iced over, thus no airflow getting thru. Boy was i glad to find out that was the problem and nothing more serious!!
Has anyone else noticed that the temp gauge is not really at center postion. on most cars, the gauge is usually right at center position ( during normal conditions ). Mine sits a little below center position.
It is absolutely normal on the Protege for the temp gauge to sit just below center. Mine was sitting at just above center until I put the new spark plugs in, and now it sits just below center once again. As long as the gauge is sitting somewhere near the center, the car is operating at its most efficient temperature as determined by the engine control computer.
On the Protege DX I used to have, the temp. gauge was always a little below the center for the entire 37K I drove it. The new Protege ES 2.0 I have is the same way.
The car before the DX, a 1996 Chevy Cavalier, used to get hot quickly. Its temp. gauge always sat to the upper side of the middle. One time, in the summer with the AC running in the city, it almost touched the red "H" zone. I told the dealer, and they said it was totally normal.
"... its most efficient temperature as determined by the engine control computer."
Actually, the engine temp. is determined by the thermostat. The computer can change fuel mixture for the temperature of the engine, but it has no control over the temp itself.
meaning, I have driven Japanese cars (suzuki,toyota,mazda) and the temp needle never went up beyond the center level - even after a 10 hour drive or a stop-n-go 3 hrs. city driving.
on the other hand I have driven american cars(GM, Ford) and their temp needle fluctuates like hell. eg. my current taurus starts with needle on the bottom and goes upto 3/4 level in city driving and 1/2 level on highway cruising.
sure it does control the temp. of the engine by controlling how much coolant should flow(coolant pump) and how many times your radiator should switch on to cool the coolant and thus the engine.
The coolant pump as you call it(aka water pump) is driven by a belt and cannot be varied by the computer. The radiator fan is only used when your vehicle is going slow or standing still. At road speeds, the normal flow of air through the radiator cools it sufficiently. Besides, the radiator fan is controlled by a sensor in the radiator and not the engine.
To repeat my last post: ENGINE TEMPERATURE IS CONTROLLED BY THE THERMOSTAT.
I am about to get the oil changed ( for the first time ). I have noticed that some shops will drive your car onto a ramp, and than lift the car up, to do the oil change. Others will use the old lifts that have the four arms. Do you think that the four arm lifts are safe on the underbody of the car? I live in GA and do not want to take my car to the dealer that I bought it from. They seem to be very careless. Any good mazda dealers in GA that you can recommend?
Listen carefully -- and I do mean CAREFULLY -- when you're on nice, smooth pavement, with the windows up, the fan off, and the radio off. Do it on a 35-mph or 45-mph road ... if you do it on the highway, you'll never hear the ticking because of the tire noise. The whole time the cruise control is on, there is a faint "tick ... tick ... tick" coming from behind the glove box. In fact, you can hear it better if you OPEN the glove box. It isn't a pebble in my tire, because (a) I can hear it go away and come back with the cruise control off and on, and now -- and here's proof it's not my imagination -- (b) my friend's ES does it too. I'm not making this up! It sounds a lot like the sound the second hand on a quartz clock makes in a room when everything's silent. Once you hear it once, you never stop hearing it!
Just a thought, but perhaps the "ticking" is from a solenoid valve in the cruise control system while its working to maintain speed. That's the only thing that I can think of. Make sense to anyone else?
Comments
I read your previous post #687 that you had a really good deal on your 2001 ES 2.0 w/ prem pkg. You paid for a total of $15357 with tax. and lic included? Where did you get yours? I am interested in getting a Pro ES and just joined the EAA yesterday to get the S-plan. Does anyone know of a good place to get it in the Bay Area in California?
Thanks
Ariel
The invoice on the Sentra SE that the dealer's selling for $15,800 is (assuming with freight and it's a 5-sp) $13624 (base) + $540 (freight) + $519 (Power Sunroof) +$606 (SAB/ABS) + $31 (Microfilter) +$172 (180-watt Stereo) = $15,492. So it's $308 over invoice.
The invoice on a '01 ES is $14,525 (base) + $480 (freight) + $1,296 (Premium Package - Carpet floor mats, Glass electric front sunroof, Front-wheel ABS, Front side airbag) = $16301. $16,301 - $237 (S-Plan) - $750 rebate = $15,314.
The ES has floormats that the SE doesn't have, but without the 180-watt stereo and microfilter.
The Nissan dealer is willing to work with me and they can get me the car around $15.5 to $15.8K. Plus, I'm not too fond of the 2001 Protege's front styling, and I like the interior of the Sentra much more. Back seat space is not a concern for me. My insurance premiums will be cheaper with the Sentra, too. Also, safety is important, and the Sentra got a higher score in the offset IIHS crash test.
Anyway, my sister has 2000 ES and needs to replace two tires ASAP, she says the only tires she can get on short notice are made by Nito. They seem to be an after-market specialty/performance company, but I can't find much else about them. Have you heard anything about them? I haven't seen the tires, but I'm guessing they might be made for performance, not all weather driving etc.
Thanks
-Quake
Cheers
I know it sounds crazy -- but the autos do get better gas mileage, at least with the 1.8 liter engine.
Meade
I think the difference in mileage that you experience is related to driving habits. If you baby your 5spd, you'll get better gas mileage than he can. I assume he got the automatic as he is a less aggressive driver and the converse is true for most M/T buyers.
Mazda's EPA estimates for the 2000 1.8L:
M/T 26 city/30 hwy
A/T 24 city/29 hwy
Most importantly Meade, have fun and keep the 5-speed.
BTW, my 2001 ES 2.0 has almost 1600 miles already, and still loving it!
will help me too...in case...God Forbid something happens to my cars.
See ya there!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
What's the difference in the Fun Factor?
Does the 2.0L rev silky and sweet like the 1.8L?
or does it drag like the other models?
Meade
1.8 vs. 2.0: I drove a 2000 ES for one day, because the dealer wanted me to buy that leftover 2000 model instead of a new 2001. I felt a little difference at low speeds, but not alot. The 2.0 feels like it has more power at low speeds (below 4000 rpm) than the 1.8 did. I hardly go above 4000-4500 rpm when accelerating from a stop in first gear. The car seems to have plenty of power.
Meade
The performance is different definitely. The handling is a little better, more in part of the bigger tires that hold longer when cornering. The brakes (4-wheel disc with ABS on my ES, vs. disc/drum without on the DX I had) are alot better. I hardly have to step on them now, and the car stops dead. Before, it felt sometimes like I wasn't going to stop in time and I was also always afraid of skidding in the rain. However, the driver's seat doesn't seem to to back as far as it did in my DX though. It's roomy enough for me, but still noticeably closer to the wheel when all the way back, to me anyway.
BTW, Meade, it's Black Mica if you didn't know. And it's automatic with cassette and the Premium Pkg.
Is it possible the response of the automatic gets better over time? (there is a previous comment mentioning this a bit)
I'm still doing break-in (550 km) and the relatively minor 'lag' in acceleration when hitting the gas seems to be decreasing. The transmission seems to have real brains (not any extra up/down shifting) compared to other cars, my previous automatic experience being my '90 Corsica (yuk, don't miss it) and plenty of later model rental cars (Sunbird, Contour, Thunderbird, Malibu, etc).
BTW, my first car was a GLC 5-speed sport(showing my age a bit here) and the ES has the same signal light/ headlight switch as the GLC! I think the wiper/mist switch is the same but I can't remember if there was intermittent wipers.
My odometer just turned past the 35,000 miles mark and I figure I'll give everyone an update on my Protege!
1999 Mazda Protege ES 5-spd, Classic Red
Accessories/parts added since new:
28% Fully metallized titanium tint on rear doors and rear glass
33% Fully metallized titanium tint on front doors
Momo chrome/leather shift knob
Mazda front and rear mud flaps
Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" 205/50R15 tires
Midas front brake pads
Bosch +4 spark plugs
This car has been an absolute blast to drive for the past 25 months. I bought the car at John Hine Mazda in San Diego for $14,800 after the $500 rebate and discounts. This was one of three ES models which were the dealership's first shipment of ES's. It has two options on it: cassette player and carpeted floor mats. I wish I would have waited for the ES Premium Package, but I like the car as it is.
The Classic Red paint has held up extremely well. It has been polished once and waxed about once every 3-4 months. It is still shiny and reflective and shows no sign of oxidation (a major problem with non-clear coated red paint such as this). The clear coated alloy wheels show no signs of peeling or corrosion. The light gray "ES Cloth" interior still looks new, but the light gray carpet is a pain to keep clean and I think my factory floor mats have just about had it. Dirt and mud and sand and grease have taken their toll on them. The floor mats themselves are still in decent condition, but the Protege embroidery is beginning to unravel. That new off-black interior sounds pretty appealing.
The original equipment tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE92 195/55R15) only lasted me about 17,000 miles. I replaced them at 19,000 miles with Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" 205/50R15's. The Bridgestone's were going to cost about $150 each, and I certainly was not impressed with the loud tread noise or the quick wear. The Nitto's provide better grip, are much quieter, and cheaper at $78 per tire. They also don't hydroplane as bad as the Bridgestone's did and I still have about 65% tread 16,000 miles later. The slightly wider tread-width and lower profile offers more crisp handling response and gives that car an even sportier appearance, particularly from the rear.
I replaced the spark plugs at 34,000 miles. I used the Bosch "Plus 4" spark plugs. They were a bit pricey ($5.99 each) and I was skeptical at first. However, I am getting slightly better gas mileage and the engine is running noticeably cooler and smoother. I replaced the air filter with a new Mazda air filter at 25,000 miles. I also change my oil every 3,000-4,000 miles since I drive that car pretty hard (the tach swings past 5,000rpm quite often).
The clutch is beginning to show signs of wear, but that is my driving for sure. Over rough roads, there are a few rattles from the front door panels, which have been noisy since new. The suspension is still very tight. I replaced the front brakes at 30,000 miles. I was cheap and didn't want to spend the extra money to have the dealership put new Mazda brake pads on it, so I went with Midas. I regret that very much. The Midas brake pads squeal like a Ford on a rainy day. Plus, they don't have the grip the Mazda pads did.
Overall, I am very happy with the car. It still runs very strong and smooth even with all of the abuse I put into it (actually, I think it likes it). The small rattles are expected in a car with this stiff of a ride. I only had one warranty repair on it: the windshield gasket was replaced at 5,000 miles because it was leaking. No problem since. After 35,000 miles, I still highly recommend the Mazda Protege to anyone looking for sporty, small sedan.
Zoom. Zoom. And Still Zooming!!!!
Respectfully;
Larry
Thanks, Larry
-Jerry Zoom.Zoom.
Yes, there are a few buzzes in the front door/dash areas ocassionally, but not too serious.
Just bought a new 01 Protege ES automatic in Millenium Red with cassette and floor mats (trying to keep cost down). My dealer had to trade to get the red so he claims the other dealer gets the dealer 1.5% floor plan kickback from Mazda. So instead of the the normal 1.5% under invoice, I got the car at invoice. under the S plan. I didn't want to argue about it so I accepted the deal.
Is he pulling a fast one on me?
Anyways, I'll be zoom zooming on Saturday.
Thanks to you guys for the EAA "S" plan info. It saved me a bunch of $!
P.S. I love the flags!
For everyone:
We just got back from a 1500 mile round trip to Colorado. What a pleasurable car to drive!! Our 01 ES makes that trip so much better! We averaged anywhere from 30-32 MPG (hwy) depending on the conditions and at speeds of 70-80.
We did have a hair raising experience though...
The weather wasn't the best (rain/snow/slush).
As we were going up I-70 into the mountains our car started to overheat. I couldn't believe it, especially with a new car, and we had to pull over when the needle fastly approached "H". We let the car cool down then continued. Come to find out, the ENTIRE front of the car was iced over, thus no airflow getting thru. Boy was i glad to find out that was the problem and nothing more serious!!
Cheers!
The car before the DX, a 1996 Chevy Cavalier, used to get hot quickly. Its temp. gauge always sat to the upper side of the middle. One time, in the summer with the AC running in the city, it almost touched the red "H" zone. I told the dealer, and they said it was totally normal.
Actually, the engine temp. is determined by the thermostat. The computer can change fuel mixture for the temperature of the engine, but it has no control over the temp itself.
meaning, I have driven Japanese cars (suzuki,toyota,mazda) and the temp needle never went up beyond the center level - even after a 10 hour drive or a stop-n-go 3 hrs. city driving.
on the other hand I have driven american cars(GM, Ford) and their temp needle fluctuates like hell. eg. my current taurus starts with needle on the bottom and goes upto 3/4 level in city driving and 1/2 level on highway cruising.
Really missed your opinions on the Protege.
Are you still in San Diego or moved? (curious)
Keep in touch with the board and please post some pictures of your Classic Red ES - a rare sight indeed.
To repeat my last post:
ENGINE TEMPERATURE IS CONTROLLED BY THE THERMOSTAT.
Listen carefully -- and I do mean CAREFULLY -- when you're on nice, smooth pavement, with the windows up, the fan off, and the radio off. Do it on a 35-mph or 45-mph road ... if you do it on the highway, you'll never hear the ticking because of the tire noise. The whole time the cruise control is on, there is a faint "tick ... tick ... tick" coming from behind the glove box. In fact, you can hear it better if you OPEN the glove box. It isn't a pebble in my tire, because (a) I can hear it go away and come back with the cruise control off and on, and now -- and here's proof it's not my imagination -- (b) my friend's ES does it too. I'm not making this up! It sounds a lot like the sound the second hand on a quartz clock makes in a room when everything's silent. Once you hear it once, you never stop hearing it!
Meade