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Mazda Protegé



  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    Mudguards are a piece 'o cake to install!! You just need an offset screwdriver (found at Sears for $8 or so) and a little patience. An installation instruction sheet should be in the box or package with the mudguards; if it is missing, bug the part's guy/gal for one. It will take about an hour to install all four.... and it's fun work!!! I did it on my '95 ES and will do it again on my newly acquired '01 ES (need some extra money....arggggg!!!);

  • Personally, I would just follow what the Protege Manual says. Mazda built the car so I'm sure they know best what should be put into it. I go about every 6000 to 7000 kilometeres between oil changes, Mazda recomends 8000. I think it is a huge waste of time changing the oil at 500 miles...and it sounds about right what people are saying about synthetic oil. I'd leave the oil that comes with the car becuase I'm pretty sure it is "break-in" oil.

    From experience, these are tough little engine's. Our 1990 323 1.6L has 260 000kms on it. I really flogged this car when I drove it...and we usually changed the oil 2 to 3 times a year which sometimes worked out to over 12000 kms without an oil change. And you know what, the engine still runs smoother than most new engines!!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Well, I am a huge believer in preventive maintenance. At the age of 42, I have owned a few cars and made some poor maintenance decisions, trying to save a buck, lol! Without a doubt regular oil changes is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!

    My 2 cents. Call it overkill, some say it is plain wrong, nonetheless; I change oil at 500, 1000 and every 3500 miles there after in any new car I buy. It might be wrong,(Honda Service Advisors, for one makes a point of holding off, on the 1st change until 5000 or so), however I believe clean fresh oil in a new motor is critical to long engine life. For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals.
  • have you ever had an engine problem with a car you didn't properly maintain? Was the problem oil-related? If so, what was the problem?

    If not, how do you know that the frequent oil changes made a difference?

    I'm not challenging your belief, just curious...
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I did wash the car last night, at one of those self-service car washes. I don't care if it gets dirty again, but it was covered in road salt which is not good for the paint. Not to mention it looked a mess. :) Hey, the car wash is only like $2 or something, so no big deal. I will probably be visiting now at least once a week. :)

    I am going to change the oil at 1000 miles, then at 3500, then every 3500 thereafter. Around 10K, I will change to synthetic. How does that sound?
  • I have a 1998 Pro LX. What type of system does the electric locks use: 3 wire negative, 3 wire postive, etc?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    It's a two wire system. If you are installing an alarm, I wish you the best of luck. Here is the wiring diagram, but unless you know how to read it, I suggest you take it to an EXPERIENCED professional, not a hack artist.

    Click on the link and then select 98 protege wire.jpg

    Good Luck,


  • Hey guys has anyone noticed this?


    Problem: Right wire going to defroster is not bent up. Left one is bent up. Is this normal? I think someone did not push the connector up.

    If you have no idea what I am talking about, let me know.
  • We have made the decision to purchase the Protege ES model. Could I please have some clarification on the "S" plan purchase. With the "S" plan do you purchase the car at 1.5% below dealer invoice and then still get whatever factory rebate is available for either the 2000 or 2001 model year? If that is the case it would seem that even with the $1500 rebate currently on 2000 models that the 2001 with more standard features would be the better buy. Pros and Cons? shows the 2000 ES at about $13,100 plus t&l but the 2001 ES at only about $200 below retail, lots of difference. It would appear with the "S" plan that the price differential would be much less on the 2001. Thanks for your input.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Ian, in pure truth, for me regular oil changes represent a commitment to a complete preventive maintenance program. I realize that fresh clean oil in a engine, basically prevents premature wear. Nonetheless, the process of taking stock of your vehicle's needs every 3500 miles is important to me. In my post "oil, oil, and more oil", I only stated my belief; "with out a doubt a regular oil change is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!" and I think that statement is beyond question. BTW, I am sure the majority of auto tech professionals would agree with that practice. However, I also state, "...I have NEVER had any engine issues in a vehicle a maintained with those intervals.", again for me taking stock of what preventative maintenance is needed every 3500 miles has contributed to a lack of problems with my cars. Ian, probably just as important IMHO, is purchasing autos from manufactures with a excellent reliability, build quality reputation, the two Mazda's, three Toyota's lasted much longer than the four Ford's I owned.

  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    Everything you said is true except the part about which is a better buy. I'll take the '01 just like you, but others may prefer a '00 with a lower initial price.
  • you seem a bit offended and/or defensive. My aim was not to offend, but to gain a bit more information, so my apologies if that's not how you saw it.

    In your first post, you stated "For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals." To me, that insinuates that you did in fact have problems with vehicles you didn't maintain in this fashion.

    My post was simply a request to hear about those cases. I too change the oil in my Mazda 626 religiously at 4000 mile intervals, using Mobil 1, but I continuously wonder if such devotion is necessary. Since this is the way I've always done it, I have nothing with which to compare.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    My car (2001 ES 2.0 with Premium Pkg., auto., and cassette) invoiced for $17,141. I paid $16,7-- or so for it before the rebate. I got the $750 rebate and also had the negative equity. My total came to like $21,000 or something like that.

    I have to take the car back to the dealer because I am getting the cargo net installed on 3/17. I was also thinking about a nose mask too, but too lazy to take it off every time it rains or I wash it.

    I just drove to lunch on the Capital Beltway for a bit. It's about 65-70 degrees here in Md. today. I had the sunroof open, the CD player going, and the windows down. GOD I didn't wanna come back to work! I definitely have a BAD case of ZOOMitis!! And PROUD OF IT!!! :)

    3 hours and 33 minutes left until 5pm when I get to ZOOM again! :)
  • I am helping my daughter to decide what car to buy. She graduates from high school in the summer and will be going away to college in the fall. I have browsed through the many messages relating to the Protege, and am getting a good impression of this vehicle. To summarize:

    1. The Mazda Protege is among the best of the small cars. Of the different configurations, LX2.0 seems to be the preferred option.

    2. The quality and durability of this car are excellent. No obvious areas of mechanical or design weakness have been mentioned (as opposed to the many gripes I see posted for other cars).

    3. Maybe the Protege's biggest disadvantage is a lack of space in the back (frankly, what you expect of a small car).

    4. The 2001 model includes some changes to the 2000 model, but they are not substantial. In other words, a 2000 model with 10K miles offers much the same as a new 2001, but without the depreciation hit.

    There have been several references to an S plan. In case we go the new car route, can someone provide a brief summary of what this is, how it works, and where I can find out more about it?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    To get the special S-plan pricing, you have to join an organization called EAA. Go to and join for $40 a year for the S-plan discount. Get on there with your member # (when they send it to you) and get the PIN number for the S-plan pricing. Take it to your dealer, pick a car that's in stock, and present the PIN and you're on the road.

    I paid 1.5% under invoice (just like everyone with the S Plan) for my 2001 Protege ES 2.0 Premium. Considering the best deal I saw for the 2001 was like $400-600 over invoice, I think I did pretty well.

    And as far as the 2000 vs. the 2001, they are pretty much the same car. But be warned that the 2000 model does not have the 2.0 engine in it. It has a 1.8 in the ES, which is a good engine. But ALL DX and LX models have the 1.6 engine (slow) only.

    And the back seat of this car is extremely roomy for its external size. I have never seen any complaints about back seat room for the Protege. I have loaded people in the back as tall as 6'3 (I am 6'3 as well, and sat back there before) and there is enough room for them to be comfortable.

    Only thing about the Protege is that they don't hold their value well, but what small car on the road does? Honda, but you pay ALOT more for one of those than you do the Protege. And they are so damn boring to drive too!

    I just bought a 2001 ES 2.0 and wouldn't trade it for anything in the world, including a boring Honda. So compare the Protege to its direct rivals and see what you come up with. Hopefully you will see the light and join us in spreading ZOOMitis!!! :)

  • Thanks for the information. My intention is to install a keyless entry. (I got spoiled by that on my last vehicle) I can read the diagram just fine, but now I have questions as to whether or not the system I bought (which is new, but an older model) will work. The system wants 3 wires, but as you pointed out, there's only two on the Protege. Time to contact the tech support of the manufacturer. :-(
  • dannygdannyg Posts: 131
    The last Mazda owned by my family, a mid-80s GLC, was driven HARD for over 10 years and barely maintained...but the engine/tranny ran great with 125K miles on the odo. I doubt we changed the oil more than five or six times in the life of the car.

    Now that my mother has a nifty new 1999 Protege LX, we're going to change the oil per the manual, no more and no less. My personal opinion is there's no reason to change the oil more than specified by the manufacturer.

    Just my two cents.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I used to have a 1999 Protege DX (with the same engine as the LX), and changed the oil per the manufacturer, every 7500 miles for normal driving. At 35K, the engine started vibrating when idling and nothing stopped it. While it could have been that the idle was off or something, I am not going to chance it with my new 2001 Protege ES 2.0. I am going to change the oil every 3750 miles, like the dealership says.
  • Martin: Did you get the mudguards online? If so, please tell because I did a couple searches and I couldn't come up with anything productive. How much were they?

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    You can use the kit that you have, but you will have to install 2 relays. The installation instructions for the kit should show this option. If not, most alarm installers should be well aware of this and should be able to give you some advice.

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Since my ES 2.0 already has the keyless entry system, I was thinking about adding a car alarm to it from the aftermarket. Anyone recommend a good, sensibly priced one? I was thinking a Black Widow or something like that. Thanks.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    How about the factory perimeter alarm? It's a little pricey, but it's a perfect fit. Also, when you go in for warranty service, they can't tell you that your aftermarket alarm is causing the engine to stall, inoperative windows or smoke in the cockpit.

    Something to think about.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I called my Mazda dealer's parts department, and they told me there was not an aftermarket alarm for the 2001 Protege. Do you know how pricey it is Malt? Also, the brochure for the 2001 Protege has a car alarm as an accessory. I wonder why they don't have it at the parts department?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The Mazda part number is 0000-8F-C03 and it should cost about $200 from your dealer. Give the dealer that part number and they should be able to order it for you.

  • If you can get one, look for VIPER brand. I got one of these when I first got my pro. the installers have to go through a lot of certification. So you know you are getting a quality install. The best part is the viper brand. Theifs know this brand.

    I got mine with remote lights and remote start. All the signals are encrypted, so I don't have to worry about anyone remote starting my car and taking off with it. I can even park the car, pull the keys out and run into a store, with the engine running the whole time. It's great for winter when you need the heat running and the summer and you want to cool things down in the car before you get in.

    Viper's got an adaptable alarm that will minimize false alarms.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    After they charge you the $200 for the alarm itself, how much about will installation cost? I can go to Best Buy here in Maryland and get an alarm installed for like $200 or so.
  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    Edmunds and KBB show an installed price of $152 (invoice) or $190 (MSRP) if a car came with that option.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    The only 2 options my ES 2.0 did not come with was the factory alarm and the 6-disc CD changer. I have everything else. I was thinking about an alarm, but not sure. It's not like they break into alot of cars where I live, and also my insurance company (State Farm) doesn't discount for alarms anyway. So it may be pointless.
  • I visited my local Mazda dealer (Windsor, Ontario) to see about a Pro Es. The dealer wasn't as personable as I would have liked, but he wasn't a jerk I don't think. Anyway, I looked up how much my 93 Honda Accord (60,000 miles--94,000 kms) was worth and it came to $9700 Can. The dealer offered me $5000 and said I would have to get a new timing belt besides! I don't even think I talked him down much from 26,000, but he said he would be willing to go lower with the trade in. I really want a Pro, but what do I do? He did say he was going to call me back to see if he can up the trade in value. I need at least 8000 or I can't even afford it...I still owe 6400 on the thing!
  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    1. If you can't afford it, don't buy it. Or
    2. Go to a different dealer. Ask the dealer to list every charge, tax, fees blah blah blah so you don't get surprises when signing the contract. Don't pull the trigger until you're satisfied with the deal.
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