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Mazda Protegé



  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Ok, here is my question again:
    Let's say my tires are P195/55R15V. What would be the "-1" size (in terms of winter tire "downsizing"). Thanks

  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    According to a 185/65-14 would give you an identical circumprence with a 0.1% speedometer error.
  • I thought it was a great price because Johnson & Magwood in Mississauga quoted me 925$ 'all in' (taxes included) for Pilot Alpines on 15" rims.

  • magillamagilla Posts: 75
    I'm sure your '00 Pro is very nice. Never a question. Couple of things not in your favor right now. Let me state the obvious - the glut of cars on new lots now and all the incentives dealers are giving to get them off the floor. With that said, unless you're a dealer you can forget retail blue book. Heck, even if you are a dealer you can forget retail book. I've never even heard of anyone (even in good economic times) that paid retail book. Not going to happen unless you're selling to a moron. And most of us that would even look at the Pro aren't morons. You don't have a sunroof (most pre-owned buyers look for bells and whistles you know...) IMHO, you should be able to get somewhere between private party and trade value. That you're still under warranty would make me think closer to PP value. Remember, most banks (that are profitable) aren't going to loan a dollar over trade value unless it's a BMW or Lexus or something of that caliber. Unless you're offering the buyer 0% financing, you're looking at an uphill battle. Good luck to you.
  • dkozikdkozik Posts: 6
    Thanks a lot for the great advice. I think I *am* going to buy the car. I'm supposed to go this week to sign all the paperwork, although I won't take delivery until the day before I leave (to the poster who suggested I get the car early and drive it around, I would if I could, but the trip permit doesn't allow me to stay in CA longer than 24 hours. Realistically, I could probably push it and get away with it, but my guess is it would be a bad idea to get my car impounded or the like when I need it to leave town.

    Anyways, Fowler3, back to your post. Thanks a lot for your advice. I'm planning two routes (a Northern through CA-AZ-NM-CO-KS-NE-IA-IL, and a Southern through CA-AZ-NM-TX-OK-AR-IL) in case the weather reports look awful. I've been to Colorado once, C-Springs, and I took at trip to the Royal Gorge over the Arkansas. I don't know how mountainous the trip north through AZ-NM-CO is, or how hard it'll be on the new car. I'm planning on spending a pretty long day seeing the sights in Arizona, I figure that should be enough to break in the car before I head through higher land. It's not that breaking in the car is a pain, it's just that there simply aren't many 600-mile routes between L.A. and points east that don't involve either high-speed or mountainous terrain.

    A question about breaking in the Protege-- what does the manual say? I read some of the boards on Edmunds dealing with the subject, and there's a lot of gloom and doom. I'm not planning on riding the car hard at all for the first day or two, but I'd like to know what my realistic limits are. Are there other things to look/listen for other than bad odors/overheating? What sort of RPM should I run (My last car was a 98 Golf I had to get rid of, and I don't think I ever ran that over 4000 RPM).

    Finally, any tips for driving the manual Pro? Again, I had a 5-spd VW, and the only time I ever drove that in snow I had a real tough time moving out in first. I've heard that you can start out in second, but how does this work in practice? I'm looking to get the most out of my car.

  • dkozikdkozik Posts: 6
    Hey folks,

    I'm going to go buy my Protege ES this week, and I'd like to know what sorts of things I should look for during the test-drive/walk-around. I won't take delivery for another two weeks (see my earlier posts), so I'll make sure to check everything out again before I drive off the lot. I'd like to do a thorough personal inspection of the vehicle, but I'd like to know from veteran owners what sorts of warning signs there may be that indicate a potential problem (i.e., the Pro's headlights are sometimes foggy, and if they are, that means a 90% chance of failure in six months based on experience).

    Again, I'm immediately putting the car through the mother of all roadtrips, so I won't be able to return to the dealer for three days of service if a light doesn't come on at the right time. Murphy's Law says I've got issues. . .

    Thanks again,
  • duh_sterduh_ster Posts: 102
    a couple basic things: fluids are all topped off, spare tire is filled and all tools are included, correct operation of all lights, correct operation of radio / CD, HVAC...

    if you're really picky (and i am), u can get down low and look at your car from the side, for door dings, scratches, paint imperfections, etc. but, since u are going on a huge road trip, not sure how relevant that'd be for u...since u'll probably get your fair share of rock chips on the highways (which reminds me, maybe u should get a bottle of touch up paint too..) i had a buncha scratches (when i got my car in aug 01) on my roof, so i'm just speaking from experience.

    hope that helps...and good luck!
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Hi guys!

    Just went to North Toronto Mazda this morning. I was told that each Mazda dealer in Canada is responsible for getting their own tires to sell to clients, meaning Mazda Canada does not provide dealers with tires to sell. This obviously means that prices should differ from dealership to dealership across the GTA.

    They confirmed the Pirellis (195/55/R15) are $112+tax/tire instead of $187. Rims are $55 each+tax. Installation and balancing was not included in the price, but the parts guy said that it should cost 1hr of labour ($77)to do it.

    So basically I'm not sure where to go from here:

    1. Should I get the rims and tires combo and pay $220 more or should I just get the tires and mount them on the original rims and keep switching in spring and fall?

    2. Should I get the Pirellis ($845+) or Kumhos ($700)?

    Also, for the Toronto people, please post the prices you were quoted, tire details, and location/tel #, so we can all make an informed decision.

    Thanx, Dinu.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    As the others advise, check the car over thoroughly as if you hope to find something wrong. Check the fluid levels and tire pressures. Sit in the seat and rock it using body motion, see if it squeeks. If so, try another car with the same color and options.

    It might be a good idea to test-drive several Pro ES models before deciding on one. Cars vary in their feel and personality. All look the same but have a difference on the road.

    In Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado you will be driving at higher altitudes so the engine will feel less powerful. In fact it will be and on the slugish side going up hill. Downshift. Don't press it. Neither will you get your best mileage until you put at least 2000 miles on it.

    Your range will be approximately 400 miles in the higher elevations (above 5000 feet) depending on how you drive. Try to fill up, top off, often rather than assuming you can find a gas station when the tank is low. Not as many refueling places on those routes in the West.

    maltb: LOL! Okay. Been there, done that.

  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    Driving over the mountains in the West, I would down-shift going downhill, also, to save the brakes especially with all-wheel dics. Let lower gears and compression slow the car downhill.

    The manual says what we are telling you. "Drive moderately for the first 600 miles. No fast starts and no hard braking. Vary the speed." But in your case it would be wise to extend that to 1000 miles.

    So check your maps and set a day's driving that will be easy on the car and still get you to places you want to site see.

  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    dkozik: Considering you are use to California weather; it might be a good idea for you to carry a "survival kit" on your X-country trip. It gets very cold in the higher elevations and north-cental states.

    Pack a sleeping bag, bottled water, and peanutbutter crackers (any food that does not require refrigeration). Carry a heavy jacket and gloves. And a good flashlight. Wal-Mart is now selling those aluminum flashlights that focus, with D-batteries, at a good price. Would be good for all drivers to carry one of those.

    And if you tell us your route(s) before leaving, maybe some of us will be near enough to them to provide assistence, if needed.

  • dkozikdkozik Posts: 6
    Thanks again for the advice. Hey, I'm living in California, but I'm not *from* California! Born and bred Chicagoan for most of my life, then Washington for another big chunk. I took a job out here in 2000 just to enjoy the beach for a while. I'm done with that, Uncle Sam wants me back in Washington, so off I go. But your cold-weather tips are right on the money; I've seen lots of people get stuck in bad weather before (including me-- last January, I got caught in a snowstorm in *Nevada*, coming back from Vegas to L.A. All my years of snow, I had never seen a flash snowstorm before).

    Anyways, again, thanks for the tips!
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    This includes spare fuses and bulbs, tire pump, distilled water (for you and your Pro) flares and whatever else you can think of.

    I carry a set of metric sockets and driver, wheel chocks, jumper kit, flashlight, emergency blankets, bulbs, fuses, gloves, terry cloths, fire extinguisher. I bring oil and water on long trips, just in case.
  • Uhh....your whining about $15??!?!? Try going to any other car show for that much, you'll find that NONE are that cheap.

    All of the Hot Import Nights shows are $19-23 to get in and ALWAYS suck. This MIR event will be much better than them. The next big event that I can think of after this is on May 3rd in Carlisle, PA. The entrance fee for that is like $20 per day (its 3 days long).
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I said I had nothing to compare the price with though. I have gone to the International Auto Shows, where it's like $8 to get in and they have sucked for the past couple years.
  • Of course, this suggests the possibility of getting rid of them sooner, since everyone seems to hate them.

    Car Talk has a Web site at, which presumably somewhere lists all the stations (it's an NPR show) that carry it.
  • My rims cost 40.00 at walmart. But they ended up being 35 because they put them on sale after I bought them. They just credited my credit card.

    When I first looked for steel rims, Mazda quoted over $100, used ones from insurance salvage $75, and most other places were 45 to 48. At $110 dollars a tire for Nokian Q's, I felt I needed to buy the rims at Walmart and save some money.

    I just put studded tires on our 86 camry, but I decided not to spring for the extra rims. But if the car keeps running for a few years, I might be sorry I didn't buy the extra rims.
  • test drove a 2002 Mercedes C230 coupe today. Nice. A little pricey but it felt solid as a rock.
  • Here's something humourous that involves a Mazda Protege:


  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    That was hugely funny! Ummm...please don't think all Canadians drive like this!!! LOL :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Geesh, you guys have a sick sense of humor.



  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Jerry ... when you gonna make my MAPP pics work?

  • duh_sterduh_ster Posts: 102
    for u meade...that could easily be MY protege!! still though, kinda a twisted kinda way...;)
  • norcannorcan Posts: 72
    OK, today I had Pirelli 'Winter Ice' 195/55R15 Assimmetricos and steel rims installed for $700 + tax. No doubt it won't snow until January now. They replace Dunlops on 16" alloys. The dealer is Gyro Motors, I'm sure you can look up the number yourself :) Tip: If you tell your tire place this quote they will probably match it.

    As long as I service my car there they will change the tires in spring and fall for free.
    Advantages of this method are it will preserve my alloys, no cost to change them, and better size for winter tires. Disadvantage - if you don't like the steel rims you'll have to pop for hubcaps, too.

    Whereas if putting winter tires on alloys then the upfront $$$ is less but you need to factor in cost of changing the tires on rims twice a year, the alloys could be damaged by weather or tire changes.

    All I can tell so far is there is no significant increase in tire noise and handling seems good.
  • can't you send the pictures in smaller packages to my email? the limit is 1024 kb's per email, so if you split up the pics, i can get them up easily

    BTW: if your pictures are bigger than 800x600, i'm going to shrink them anyways, so if you want to save the time of uploading you could reduce the filesizes by making them that resolution
  • my email is

    that one has more limit for MB' gives you 2 mb's while yahoo gives you 6
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I'll give it a try this morning.

  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    Is that in Canadian dollars?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    You know, I had almost signed the papers on a 2000 Sentra when I bought the Protege instead. Glad I went with Mazda! Here's the latest Sentra recall, announced today on

    115,000 2000-2001 Nissan Sentras

    A defect in the steel wheel can cause it to separate from the mounting hub without prior warning.

    All right! Yeah! Cool! Self-rotating tires!!!

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I thought about a Sentra as well, but it was a no-brainer for me. I couldn't fit comfortably in the Sentra due to lack of leg room, so I ended up with the Protege. My best friend has a 1997 Sentra with about 91K miles on it right now. He bought it used with 14K on it in Nov. 1998. He has had alot of trouble with the car in the time he has had it, I think. He has gone through 2 sets of brakes, rotors done once, mysterious engine noise that still comes and goes, check enging light on all the time, 4 or 5 different computer parts replaced (I don't remember what), and the fuel something-or-other (not pump, something else) went up in it. That seems like alot of extra work to have to do to a car in 74K or so to me. I am surprised, I thought Nissans were pretty reliable cars. Oh well.

    I took my 2001 Protege ES with cracked windshield :( and 19,501 miles to Carmax just for the hell of it, to see what they would say. They told me the car is worth $9500 right now. I owe a little more than $17,000 to pay off the loan. Guess I won't be getting a new car anytime soon. That's cool though, because I had planned on running the Protege into the ground anyway. I will keep it as my commuter/beater even if I would get another car. Next time, it's going to be a Lexus maybe. We will see. :)
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