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http://popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1997/10/flush_cooling_system/print.phtml
If you're not planning to do this just now, save reference anyway for later.
Dinu
When I take it in for servicing, I intend to replace the oil with synthetic. I'd do it myself, but I don't have the space (public garage and all, therefore verboten) to do so. Should I purchase the synthetic and have them install it, or should I have them get it?
As some previous posters have said, the Protege is one of the few cars that encourage its owner to make what others would deem useless trips. All of the sudden getting a gallon of milk at Wal-Mart will not be so much of a drag. At 30 mpg it is not so painful to drive around actually comparing gas prices.
Alternator, you are quite the pro using plastic ramps to change your oil. I typically drive my car at an angle onto a curb to get to the drain plug. Maybe investing in a pair of ramps is no longer a pipe dream being that our new home actually has a garage. Maybe I can justify a "useless" trip in my Protege to make the leap for the ramps. You did answer my question, by the way.
You may also consider sticking to natural instead of synthetic oil unless you live in an extremely cold climate. Some recent research done by Consumer's Reports contends that synthetic oil really is not worth the extra expense provided that you keep your oil clean. Just a thought...
FWIH, The CR thingie you refer to uses NYC taxicabs as the basis of comparison. Are we talking abt the same report? AFAIK, regarding NYC cabs (I do live there, and so know a little about it), they don't really turn off the car much, except at night, and then do long stop and go hours on it, none of which really revs the engine much (which is what causes breakdown in oil).
I'm thinking about a 5w30, due to the occasionally odd NYC winter weather (wasn't bad this year, but we had an unusually warm winter). Is my thinking wrong? I kinda remember that the manual states 5w30 for cold months and 10w30 for warm months.
A trick I just read somewhere on the web is to loosen oil filter with filter wrench, take a thin-sided empty plastic bottle slightly larger in diameter and longer than the filter, cut off its bottom, invert and (with cap still on bottle) place on filter, squeeze and turn filter until filter (and remaining oil) drops into bottle. Then you can just toss the bottle and filter, and screw on new filter. Haven't tried this yet, but it seems reasonable.
In any case, the oil filter on the Pro 2.0 L engine is so located that it doesn't have much under it to drip oil down onto.
Tell your girl friend that for many decades aircraft instruments were (very many still are)illuminated red for the reason that red preserves night vision better than any other color. This is especially important when trying to keep an eye out for bambi. I should know. I've hit 3 deer, all of them at night.
So, don't sign anything unless you are aboslutely certain.
fowler3
Mitsubishi also designed a tandem-seat car and exhibited it at the 1993 Frankfurt Auto Show. Advertised as getting 85mpg. The VW 1-liter car beats that with 240 miles to one gallon. Wish they had painted it something other than black, it looks like a big charcoal grill on wheels.
fowler3
http://www.autointell.com/european_companies/volkswagen/audi-ag/audiag1112.htm
fowler3
fowler3
Call them and ask: 1-800-866-1998
fowler3
Also, did anyone see her question on Saturday about the sensitivity of her Mazda alarm?
Thanks
Acutally, I believe Vocus had to use Mazda's roadside assistance once. I should say he called them to come, but he ended up getting a boost from a passerby.
Vocus, can you provide a little more detail?
IMO, alarm systems these days are nearly useless. Most people just ignore them when they hear the loud wailing, and they are more of an annoyance than anything now.
You don't care about me anymore. Don't play these little love games with me, "snookums!" There's someone else, isn't there? Tell me! I'm a big guy, I can take it!!!
;-)
Meade (Yeah, THAT one)
If this alarm is really as sensitive as it sounds, then it would surprise me if Mazda designed it to be that way. I suppose it is possible, but it would seem more probable that, again if it really is so hyper-sensitive, an alarm sensor(s) is not functioning properly. Seems like a good service department, even if they can't adjust the sensitivity, should be able to determine wether or not a sensor is functioning properly (not triggering at too small a shock, etc.).
I'm at about 1650 on my odometer on my LX. On the car though, there's a little sticky that the dealer put on saying to schedule maintencence around 3000 miles or 3 months. 3 months is due in a month. seeing that it took me 2 months to get to 1650, it doesn't seem likely that I will convenienly get to 3000 right around 3 months. As for the car, everything seems good. All the fluids are at the same level as when I took delivery, except for windsheild wiper fluid (which I used, and refilled). the motor oil is starting to discolor though. It was once a caramel brown, and is now almost a coffee brown.
When I take it in for servicing, I intend to replace the oil with synthetic. I'd do it myself, but I don't have the space (public garage and all, therefore verboten) to do so. Should I purchase the synthetic and have them install it, or should I have them get it?
I live in NYC, which ob(li)vously means lots of stop and go traffic, even on highways. I don't use the darned beast every day, maybe one or two days a week, alternating between 2-3 mile trips and 120 mile trips.
I'm thinking about a 5w30, due to the occasionally odd NYC winter weather (wasn't bad this year, but we had an unusually warm winter). Is my thinking wrong? I kinda remember that the manual states 5w30 for cold months and 10w30 for warm months.
I do know that if you disarm the alarm and then end up not opening the door within a minute or so, it resets the alarm to the on Position. Found that out when we disarmed the alarm and then opened the trunk. about a minute later, the doors locked and the alarm switched on.
I love keyless entry! Such a great device. If you don't have the alarm, the keyless system also locks itself after about 30 seconds if you press the unlock button and don't open a door.
as luck would happen, on my way home from work yesterday, i say a cab double-parked and stopped, with the cabbie reading the paper, even then the cab was running (and no, they aren't protege's but crown vics)
Dinu
by newcar31
I agree with you, 100%!!!
-Larry
As far as Slick 50 is concerned, I always wondered how the heck the engineers were able to claim that the stuff bonded to the engine even after several oil changes...
Guys who bought it were going to ship it to Puerto Rico the next day so that it could become a cab. Wanted to know if my relatives had any other Proteges they wanted to sell.
My aunt says same thing happened with the 929 they got rid of several years back.
http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0204/30/b01-477537.htm
Rest in Peace, Daewoo Motor America.
Meade
Meade
P.S. Eighteen days to MAPP III!!!
Ah well, you see the difference the Pro's suspension makes when auto testers take them through the slalom or emergency lane change manuever. The Pro consistently goes through at a few higher mph's than most vehicles in its class. The Motorweek review of the Pro showed it head-on during its slalom test. It looked very tight and controlled, with very little plowing typical of FWD vehicles. The new Corolla looks almost as good (almost). The Civic and Focus looked very tippy and floaty to me when they went through the same course.
Meade
I told him maybe it was so when they made left- and right-hand drive versions of my car, they wouldn't have to worry about what side to put the grab handle on. That couldn't be right, or almost all cars out there would have grab handles on both sides. Anybody else got a reasonable explanation?
I really like the placement of the handles on the A-pillars in some cars like Preludes and some SUVs. Those are really nice.
Meade
P.S. Paul, any news on your MAPP attendance plans?
I've read where some people state a filer needs some mileage so that as it gets partially blocked, it actually filters better. I personally don't know if tha's true or not. All I know is that I have never seen a filter this small on engines that were even smaller than this one. The shop did not have a larger 2 stage filter but I will keep my eye out for them. There's no way I'm ever going over 3,000 before a filter and oil change. Many people say this, but reality is there's usually a bit of a fudge factor involved. Every 3,000 usually means you've never really gone much over 4,000 before you actually changed it. I will be making every effort to really stick to the 3,000 maximum limit.
Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but I really could not believe how small the filter was.
BTW, it was really a shock coming from a Mazda-built-by-Ford B2300 pickup, which used Motorcraft's FL-1A filter, which is one of the biggest made for a passenger vehicle -- about the size of a Maxwell House can -- to this little thing. (And the pickup's engine was only a 2.3-liter four.) Now I wouldn't go so far as to say it's the size of a shot glass, but it IS about the size of a doorknob. Cute -- just like the car.
Meade