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Comments
They are probably going to tell you if the OD light is not flashing, then there is no way for them to find it. The OD light works like the engine light, a code is "stored" when it flashes. So there you go. Mention it to the dealer though, so you at least have proof it was checked out.
;-)
Meade
P.S. What's the best cracker for crap dip anyway? I would suggest Keebler Out House Crackers. ;-)
Actually, had I even known it was going to be available on Feb and later 02 models, I might well have waited to get it.
As usual the reason is simple, while I prefer manual and that's all I've driven, the wife won't. Not can't (she drove my MGBs in the far past), but won't. The new breed of sport autos is a good compromise IF the trannys are done well. Usually, the only problem is the amount of time it takes the "sport" autos to shift. Audi's is notoriuosly slow, but there are simple chip fixes to these available. I don't know Mazda's setup on the Pro, but I would have waited to test one before deciding.
So, if I hit the Lemon level on my Pro, a Sport Auto might be somehting for me to consider. Maybe not get, but at least consider.
So again, if anyone out there has driven the new sport auto, let me know how you thought it did and felt.
Thanks
Shrique
Am I describing the same sound as the "death rattle"?
Yes, I realize this topic is old hat here, but someone new brought it up so I thought I'd "help."
As a side note, a service rep where I bought the car said "Because of conditions here in Colorado, we recommend 3,000 mi." Someone here in this forum mentioned in passing something about someone saying something similar about Ohio, I think. I remember hearing the same thing in Michigan. Anybody else hear this about conditions in their area?
I smell a conspiracy. I bet almost everywhere you go, service reps will tell you conditions there necessitate more oil changes than the manufacturer says. I mean, is any area "normal" per the manufacturers specs? If not, then why do they publish those specs?
Let me guess, so your engine will wear out sooner. Then you'll buy a new car from them. Hmm, so car manufacturers like Honda, Toyota, Mazda, etc., don't want their engines to last, 'cause nobody ever buys them for their longevity, right?
http://www.procarparts.com/store/displaydetails.cfm?pid=317-MZD-EUROCL
although they do look pretty cool :-D
here's a pic of my JDM clear corners, notice how the surface pattern is different from the procarpart ones:
corner close-up:
Hopefully Zooming home in the dealer loaner for the last time.
If you look in Pete's album on the yahoo site, though, there is still a pretty good pre-crash photo that shows how they look installed on his car.
And good luck, Ron...hope everything is fixed to your satisfaction.
well you can see it for yourself dale, when you come to MAPP3...
Yes, looking forward to seeing how the clears look in person, especially on Tammy's P5, since her car is white like mine. Then I'll make my decision.
About the only thing I don't care all that much for is the engine. A bit weak and buzzy for my taste. But, the price, and especially how that relates to the car's handling, sold it anyway. Besides, I find that ultimately the power is at least adequate to pull it around - with the 5 speed anyway.
Hope that helps.
Oh, I don't have the factory alarm/shock sensors. Sorry.
Also, what are the differences between the Pro5 and a ES, mechanically, other than the body shape. I saw the strut tower brace of Pro5 is not in my ES. And Pro5 also has blue sway bars underneath the car, if I remember right? Car and Driver recorded a 0.77g for the Pro5. Does anyone know if ES handles better than Pro5 or not? How many g's with the stock 16' tires for a ES right out of factory, and what's the 0-60?
Also to ajewel, I just bought a new red ES last weekend. I like it very much. I like it better than a civic, and both the interior and exterior look nicer. It handles nicely. Also, you can get $1500 factory rebate and an addtional $500 for a recent college graduate.
Now between the LX and ES, that's a personal preference.
For the alarm, ask jbollt and his daughter how that is...
I've got a Shimmering Sand '02 LX automatic with moonroof, alloy wheels, factory alarm, power everything, and I decided on it after driving a '96 LX for 5 years (it was my first car -- yes, I know, I'm young). So I guess my opinion might be a bit biased, as I don't have much else to compare to, but I love the Protege. I would say the main downfall of the Protege is how much it loses its resale value after the first year. If that kind of thing is important to you, I'd say go for something that'll hold its value better. And the only other thing is the size of the engine . . . although I have to say my 2.0 liter engine does a lot more than the dinky 1.5 liter I had in my '96. It's definitely not a V6, though.
And I absolutely love the moonroof.
DSM6--the oil change crowd down here in Southeast Alabama also claim that oil changes are needed every 3,000. It must be the peanut dust...
Congratulations on your new purchase!
Tom
BTW, if you're really interested in Proteges and you're not too far from Virginia, please consider coming to our third-annual Mid-Atlantic Protege Picnic (MAPP III) up at Shenandoah River State Park, outside Front Royal, Virginia, on Saturday, May 18. So far we have about 20 Proteges of all generations and about 30 people signed up to attend. For more information, check out my Yahoo! group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mazdaprotege
Meade
mazdaprotege moderator
My ES has the factory alarm and although it wasn't an option I wanted, I have not had any problems with it.
For the price new, there is not a better handling car on the market. That's what made my decision. I test drove the Sentra and Saturn models, but the Protege was head and shoulders above them. Of course, I'd doubt you'd find anyone in hear who has bad things to say about the Pro. For me, it just came down to feel. The Pro had it. I liked the Sentra SER (the Spec V was out of my price range), but didn't care for the rear suspension or the overall look. For the money the Pro is a classier ride in my opinion.
As for Lx vs. ES, mechaically they're the same. The tire/wheels are different. It's really just a matter of price. Start adding options to the LX and you just might find yourself in ES territory anyway. That's what happened to me. Plus, personally, I love the black/blue interior on the ES and those factory 16" rims.
I have a '01 2.0L LX with AT and like it very much. It rides firm at first but after 3000 miles the suspension loosens up a bit, the ride is much better. From what others here ahve said, the difference in firmness between the LX and ES is mainly due to the 16-inch wheels and low profile tires on the ES, the suspension is the same. The LX At gets 28mpg around town and 36mpg higway, depending on how you drive. If you have heavy foot the fuel economy will be considerbaly less. Handling is great. Have had NO problems in the first year. I don't have the security system and from what I have read here am very happy it isn't on the car.
After one year driving the Pro, there isn't another car out there I would have bought had I the opportunity to do it again. None are as satisfying to drive, none have as nice an interior, none have the cabin room, none handle as well -- without costing thousands more.
Security alarms are more profit for the dealer, do not substancially increase the car's security, and provide a maintenance headache the dealers appreciate = $$$.
fowler3
ONE WORD OF WARNING FOR MANUAL CARS: I set the cruise control at 60, was coming to a light and shifted into neutral. As soon as you hit the clutch it disengages the cruise system. As I coasted towards the light, it turned green. I then made the dumb move of pushing the Resume button BEFORE I put the car back into 5th (stupid me thought I had it in gear). Well, as soon as I pushed the resume button the engine flew to redline! I hit the brakes and depressed the clutch and the engine returned to idle as the system disengaged. I don't know whether it was the clutch, brakes or the system sensing the approach of redline that made the car return to neutral. I also have not intention of testing it again to find out. I can't believe that Mazda would design the system to blow the motor by letting the engine max out at redline and stay there until you did something to turn the cruise system off. But, I'm also surprized to find that the cruise system can be made to Resume without sensing that it's in gear. Seems odd.
As far as the first start death rattle goes, I unfortunately have to report the obligatory and maddening "could not duplicate" result from the dealership.
I would get the ES, just because the wheels alone are worth the price increase from the LX model. Also, the ES has the red dash lights which I like as well. Drive both and see which you prefer though.
Steel rims=cheap to replace
Mazda alloys=expensive to replace
Some people prefer less frills for (basically) the same car.
I prefer alloy wheels, even though they are more expensive to replace, because steel wheels with wheel covers = cheap to me. The wheels on my VW right now are $390 EACH and the tires are $180 EACH, but I still got the car, knowing that.
I got the car to 55, shifted into neutral, then turned the cruise system on, hit "set" and wham! The engine raced upwards.
So, that means on my car I the car will allow me to activate and attempt to maintain a speed when the car was never in gear with the system on.
I just called Mazda USA's customer number and the customer service person said this was NOT normal and should not happen. he said the system should not be able to be activated in neutral. You can turn the system "on" in neutral but it should not accept a "resume" or "set" command while in neutral. BUT, he did also say he would check with the engineering dept as this would be classified as a technical question on which he would not be the final word, being as he works in customer service. I await his return call and I'll let you all know what the final word from Mazda is.
By the way, he also said categorically, the system should disengage when the clutch is depressed. So, to the fellow who posted above about the Pro5, you may want to test that again and if the rpms shoot up when you depress the clutch you may well have a problem.
BTW, do you still have the death rattle?
BTW, one thing I really like about the Protege's cruise control, which makes it better than the one I had in my Saab, is, even though it disengages under 25 mph, it remembers your setting as long as you don't switch off the main or turn off the car. So as soon as you're back up above 25, you can hit resume and be back where you were. Makes it nice when you're taking a state route (instead of an interstate) and you come through one of those little tiny towns with a traffic light and a grocery store (and a trigger-happy deputy who just got enough budget money to buy a radar gun). ;-)
The Saab suffered from cruise-control anemia if you dropped below the cut-off speed, making you have to reset it.
Meade
He said that he spoke to engineering and if the Protege is in neutral, the cruise control system should not respond to either a "set" command or a "resume" command. No mad death dashes to redline should occur.
Back to the dealer we go.