vocus: I would say a new radio under warranty. If the head unit is cutting out, a seperate amp won't help. And I am pretty sure you can't really change the amp in the head unit. It would probably be cheaper just to buy a new aftermarket head unit. Perhaps with an MP3 capable CD player and XM radio reception...
My pro is black, but the blue pro that has the fs-ze belongs to Jeremy Dehart. I guess it's confusing (2 Jeremy's, each with 2000 protege with fs-ze). Jeremy Dehart's pro has the complete sport 20 kit. He's the only other guy, that I know of, that has a "streetable" pro with the fs-ze. Can anyone give me the info on MAPP? I'd like to attend but, I may have conflicting plans.
I thought I was the only one with a black Protege around. I never see any black ones out there, except this past weekend I saw one in DC when I was there.
-Pacesetter 2.25" Exhaust tubing -Dynomax superturbo muffler with brospeed tip -Weapon*R intake kit -RX7 VAF airflow meter -Tokico Struts -B+G Lowering springs -Tenzo R 17" wheels with nitto 450 rubber -jvc MP3 head unit -blaupunkt 5.25's in front -kenwood 6x9's in rear -infinity basslink sub -hotwires hose kit -momo shift knob and shift boot -Pacesetter short shifter kit (not installed) -Bronzeoil shifter bushing (not installed) -Mirage spoiler (not installed.....going to mod it to fit) -Compass MOtorsports Cold Air extension (on order)
Future mods: -BPT 1.8 Motor with haltech ecu, starion intercooler, turboxs BOV and boost controller, etc. -Mazdstyle "Combat" bodykit -Konig Rated R wheels -Painted side moldings -jspec bumper -familia rear garnish -stiffer suspension bushings -compass motorsports rear sway bar
I was thinkin about gettin a replacement k&n filter, from what i hear, its supposed to help improve performance and also help da engine breathe easier. what do yall think?
Awhile back I was watching one of those car repair/mods shows on TNN and the resident expert said (He was holding a K&N conical filter)that the only time you'd notice any difference was near top end. I'd thought about getting one before that.
Nice thing about K&N and many other aftermarket filters is, they are cleanable. K&N puts a million mile warrenty on their filters. All you need to do is get the K&N cleaner kit (~$8-$12) and clean as needed.
mattlee - are you looking to get a drop in filter or replace the stock airbox with a cone filter?
Place to look for excellent prices would be CompetitionSound.com. They beat both 800.com AND Crutchfield. My system is being delivered 10/2 ordered 9/26 - not bad. Pioneer KEHP6010 Cassette player 170.45 Pioneer CDXP670 - 6 disc CD changer148.43 Will advise to performance after installation.
Hey, nice coincidence - that's the exact same CD-changer i've been considering installing! I already have a compatible Pioneer Cassette player/CD Changer compatible head unit.
I'd be curious to know about your experience with the system and installation after you receive it. I'd also like to know where you installed it, and if you had any trouble. I'm thinking under one of the front seats would be best. Also, why did you go for the 6-disc when the 12-disc costs barely $14 more - is the 12-disc too large and cumbersome to fit under the seat?
btw, Crutchfield guarantees that you will receive ALL accessories needed to set up and install the CD changer (cables, cords, brackets, screws, bolts as well as their own vehicle- and system-specific instruction sheet). Let me know if you end up having to buy anything extra or going to a lot of trouble figuring ou how to install it.
If your interested in performance mods lemme know so i can post my new site up when i finish it. It will be about 3rd generation protege modification and definitions about parts and stuff. It should be pretty informative.
I require your helpful and wonderful assistance once again, please. I hear that there is an MP3 body kit available from the dealer. What's the price and PN? Thanks.
I may get a kit from www.corksport.com. The have their own "less expensive" version of the Mazda Speed kit. The website has a pic of the side skirts. There is a pic of the Mazda Speed bumper which is basically what the corksport version looks like.
99p-8-050 CORK SPORT "MS Style" front bumper (99, 00) $375 99p-8-051 CORK SPORT "MS Style" side skirts (99, 00) $250
Had my system installed yesterday by Best Buy installation Dept. They did an excellaent job in less than an hour, and put in both the cassette deck and the CD player. Cost me $82., but I know it is properly installed. Put the changer under the passenger side front seat - nice fit. It sounds great - and was worth the money. The only extra were wire harness and bracket - included in the $82. Got the 6 disc because of it's compact size.
Anyone install the mazda alarm? I'm looking at it for my P5, Does it plug into existing wiring or does it require splicing into the wires? Use the existing keyless remotes I have or new ones?
It uses the remote, but has to be wired into the car and all. I called the dealer, and they told me it would cost upwards of $350 to install the alarm in my 2001 ES.
I just can't handle turning my baby over to an installer at one of those places. No offence to anyone that works installing alarms, as I'm sure there are some very good installers out there that take a lot of pride in their work. But I can't get past the thought that they are working against the clock, I'm paying them by the install not the hour so there isn't much reason to take extra time to do it just right. Unfortunatly all the 'high-end' alarms aren't available over the counter. I've heard so many horror stories about botched install jobs with loose wires, mounting screws going through panels into wiring on the other side etc.. I know there are probably better alarms out there, but I'm getting a pretty good deal on the Mazda alarm and will do the install myself, I've done several myself in the past.
Thanks for the tips and info. I took the plunge and ordered one from crutchfield for 179.99 with all harnesses, screws, parts etc and incredibly detailed instructions, plus live tech support on the phone.
Decided to install it myself after getting a $80 quote from Circuit City and a $50 plus parts (which I didn't need) quote from a couple of no-name local audio shops.
Got a friend (or two) to help, and picked the trunk (under the bag platform area) for the install (didn't like the idea of fishing around under a dusty seat/carpet and people possibly kicking the changer there!
My Pioneer head unit (KEH-P2800, cassette and tuner only) had been hardwired and soldered, but luckily the only cable I needed to connnect was accessible and easy to resolder. Ran the funky and convenient cable that carries all kinds of signals along the right side firewall (under all those plastic thingies along the side and middle of the car) through the carpet, enough place there for cables. Running it to the trunk was a pain (95 DX does not have folding seats, don't know if that would have helped!)
The toughest part was scoping the location for install (metal plate under the baggage deck) and drilling the holes (1/4 inch). The carpet/cloth around the rear speakers above this emtallic section was pain to remove! And its claustrophobic inside the trunk, while you're awkwardly positioned listening to and holding the loud drill.
But the location is incredibly convenient, I lose almost no space that I ever use, and the sound is awesome!
Unfortunately my head unit can't read the CD-Text info off the changer unit but I can program names and tracks for 100 CDs that it will recognize, and won't lose, even if the battery is disconnected for a while!
Of course, my inexperience meant that it took my 4 hours of light work, with a friend working - but was very satisfying to complete! Oh, and did I mention I was on the phone with a tech for 15-20 minutes, while he gave me a bunch of tips/instructions/precautions - crutchfield has great service and this incredible 30-day no-questions money-back warranty (I'll stop before 'sales rep' cover!)
Wish I'd taken pictures of the install, but would be glad to help anyone considering a CD-changer upgrade (they're under 200 for most brands' 6 disc changers, good deal if you didn't pop for the changer as an option, and don't want to shell out the accessory price and let the dealer gouge you)
BTW, the OEM Mazda head unit is compatible with Sanyo changers (or so I'm given to understand). Didn't someone mention Proteges had Pioneer speakers and Kenwood head-units? (on a side note, ALL my components are now Pioneer, figures, since I live in Utah!)
Next upgrade, semi-decent (Pioneer?) speakers! Expect another quick(?) report in a few months!
But I know the speakers are Pioneers. You should've noticed the Pioneer name on the bottom of your deck speakers as you were jammed inside your trunk! (Good thing we have those emergency trunk-release handles, lol!)
My wife had a set of D60A2s (w/ JLB) that were decent. These are supposed to replace them and are supposed to be much better. Traction is rated AA and heat-buildup resistance is rated A.
Not much info on Tire Rack yet. I may spring the extra $$ for these over the AVID T4s.
I thought about putting alloys on my '99 LX, but I'm now leaning towards keeping my steel rims and saving my money in case they 1) put a turbo engine into a Pro or 2) the RX-8 works out for me (so far as my fitting into the thing).
I almost purchased a set of D60A2s for another car a few years ago. (I didn't buy them because I wound up selling the car.) But I was sold on them. I'm glad you've had good luck with them.
Are those Dunlops available in 195/55R15? If so, I'll add them to my list of tires to consider to replace my crappy Bridgestone Poortenzas next month. So far I'm leaning toward Yokohama AVID T4s.
That's the only problem. They don't offer it in 195/55R15. The closest is 195/60R15, I think. It might be just a matter of time though. Last year, there was only 1 tire I knew of that was 195/55R15.
This time around, my wife decided to go with Bridgestone RE930s. She says they're quieter than the D60A2s (of course, the Dunlops were over 4 years old by then). The Dunlops did get kind of hard and noisy later in their lives, but otherwise were good tires.
I have to say my wife is on the lax side of car maintenance (she didn't replace her tires until the sidewall on one blew...old age). I'm a little towards the fanatical side myself. Usually wash my car every 2 weeks. I'm almost beside myself since I haven't been able to wash my cars properly in over 2 months!
Well, the receiver/head unit in my car is a Pioneer, because the original Mazda (Sanyo?) one was stolen/ripped out of it when I bought it and I bought and had it installed at Circuit City way back then. As a side note, it doesn't support CD-Text (although the CD changer does) - which was disappointing!
And I didn't check the label on the speakers when I was jammed up in my trunk, its claustrophobic enough in there to deter one from stopping to smell the roses, to put it mildly! And I do believe that the trunk has an inside release catch, but I had a friend helping me and standing by, just in case!
I'm hearing a resonance/vibration from my right front door speaker with anything over moderate bass, is this a sure sign of a ripped/damaged speaker? What (basic) speakers to people recommend, or have used before, to replace the factory speakers? I was thinking of doing this anyway, because in the 95, the rear deck speakers are MUCH louder and clearer than the door speakers (I heat its the other way round in new Proteges and Protege5's). I have a Pioneer unit with a small built in amp that can support 4x45 watts - now is that PMPO or RMS? And are all speakers for cars the same impedance - (2, 4, 8 or 16)?
The 4x45W is probably peak. Typically, a receiver with this rating has anywhere from 17-24W RMS rating.
For more power, look into putting in a dedicated amp.
I like my aftermarket Pioneers. You want to look for non-paper cones (or at least moisture-proofed paper cones), 2-way (or more), non-foam surrounds (buytl rubber, synthetic rubber or coated fiber). Impedance can vary. Check to see what your receiver requires. If it's not a match, the speakers will still work, just not as efficiently (not all the power will go to driving the speaker coil).
Usually, the foam surround is what breaks in factory-original speakers. This allows the edges of the cones to wave freely. This will be a high-frequency "scratchy" sound, usu. at higher volumes. It may also be that the door trim panel isn't fastened done completely around its periphery. This was the case with my passenger-door panel. The assembler just wasn't careful to make sure all the plastic pop fasteners were installed correctly. It was easy enough to pop into place and that took care of the rattling. Of course, I discovered this only when I removed the panel to install new speakers.
Your resonance/vibration sounds more like something loose in the door than a blown speaker to me. Torn or blown speakers usually will sound very distorted if you turn them up to any respectable level. I agree with mazdafun about getting polypropylene cones or treated paper cones. They'll last forever and won't deteriorate over a few years of damp mornings. Plus, on the rear deck, they'll handle the sun better. They also seem to handle bass better. The stock speakers in my 2000 Protege ES sound fine to me, although they do seem to be a bit bassy in the rear -- I have to set the bass on "4" instead of the midway point -- "5" -- or else the bass booms way too much for my ears. I think the trunk just resonates too well. Maybe some under-deck sound dampers would help.
My only complaint about the stock stereo is that I have to turn the volume up nearly all the way to hear some CDs well. (I guess CDs are like tapes in that respect -- recording levels can vary -- because some of my CDs are like that and some aren't.) Maybe somewhere down the road I'll install a small amp -- but after doing this kind of installation in about 10 other cars, I don't look forward to it. These days, with the way dashboards and wiring harnesses are built, I'd probably gladly pay Circuit City or Best Buy a few bucks to do it for me!
Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll take a look at the door speakers and the damping/panelling around them first before I buy new speakers.
I agree with meade about the varying CD volume levels - it can get really irritating! Especially with a 6-CD changer! I suspect it has something to do with CD quality, source quality and recording quality. All my BMG (12 for the price of 1!) CDs are much softer than my store bought cds. And don't even get me started on burnt CDs - if I ever forget to normalize the volume on source songs/mp3s before burning to a CD, there are amazing volume level variations from one song to another!
Why can't they design a constant sound-output volume (or loudness?) control. Set it to a certain level, and it changes the level of amplification to make any song sound as close to that level as possible. I'm sure this should be easy to implement in today's modern audio gadgetry!
There're lots of web retailers that can sell you a roof rack.
I purchased my Mondial unit from Bike Nashbar. Performance Bike sells it under their own name.
You can check out any local bike shop. They'll likely carry Thule, Yakima, Saris. Those are the main mfrs. of roof carrier systems. They and others make trunk-mounted carriers and trailer-hitch-mounted carriers. You'll have to decide what type of system works best for you.
A few things about the roof rack:
I think the Pro is rated to carry only a little over 100lbs, including the rack.
You'll have to heft your bike up there, which you don't have to do with a trunk-mount carrier.
There's a lot more wind noise and air resistance with a roof vs. trunk-mount.
Make sure to remove your bikes before going into your garage.
The clips usually create gaps between your door weatherstripping and the door frames, which will cause some water to leak past the weatherstripping during rain storms. So, you'll want to remove your rack when you're not actively using it. Trunk or hitch-mount systems usually don't compromise weather seals.
However, they don't impact your visibility and they can be configured to carry skis etc. They also look much cooler. I also think they're less likely to lead to scratches on your car or your bikes than trunk or hitch-mount carriers.
I own a 1998 Protege DX (yeah, a strippee), which I enjoy driving, but needs some modifications to bring into the mainstream. I've replaced the stock 13" rims, with Accura 14" rims with the correct ofset, installed a set of Yokohama's Avid H4 (quiet ride) and after much experimenting with trye pressures, set the frnts @35psi, rears @ 26. Besides the excessive road noise concern, what about upgrading the suspension with a larger anti-roll bar, and one for the rear (has none). I also understand that the previous generation rear disc brakes (complete with spindle, hub, caliper, rotor, parking brake cables with fit as a direct swap and that I don't need to replace either the proportioning valve or master. Can anyone shed some light on either or these issues. Thanks in advance, Dennisjhs
I thought the stock horn was pretty good until the brain donor in the lane next to me on the freeway kept coming into my lane even after I started honking (thank goodness for good brakes and solid handling)
Hi! I want to know if the ceiling lamp of the protégé 2000 se (canada) is compatible with the one of the pro 2001? I do much prefer the one in the 2001. I do not have a sunroof, it's the basic one. Thanks
Has anybody installed a aftermarket indash mp3 receiver in 01 pro? I am getting conflicting answers. Crutchfield says you cannot do it because the depth of the dash (6 1/4") is less than required for most mp3 receivers. But some other sites say it is possible to install it. I am going to try my local BB today and see what they say. Any directions will be greatly appreciated!!!!
Someone has done it to a 1999-2000 Protege, because someone at the MAPP II had one installed in their car. I think it was eeterp, but I am not sure. So it can be done. Also, the radio in the MP3 is the same size as the single-DIN CD players in the 1999-2000 models. So it can be done, no matter what anyone tells you. Just wait for eeterp to reply about his installation.
Wouldn't it be cool to be able to choose the color of the night-time IP displays? You could choose green for sedate moments and switch to red for more enthusiastic driving.
Multi-color LEDs are used in some devices (think some auto receivers and some mini-DV camera buttons). They let you choose amongst the available colors (usually red, green, blue) in the LEDs.
That would be a cool feature that's not currently available in automobiles (except in the radio/receiver portion). Plus the LEDs would likely never have to be changed during the lifetime of the Pro, so you'd never have blacked-out displays due to burned-out bulbs. I think some GMs use LEDs in their IPs as well as in the tail-light and brake-light assemblies.
I too would like to replace the horn, I find it very anemic. Has anyone replaced the horn with an aftermarket, trying to find something more euro sounding.
Last week I took my 01 pro to local best buy to install a mp3 indash receiver. Well I think mazda has made sure that no aftermarket stereo would go in the 01 pro 1) The existing stereo in 01 pro is double DIN(I have seen very few cars have it) 2)It is not mounted on the dash but snapped in. So there are no mounts to install Aftermarket stuff(The tech was talking about something called ISO mount. I have no idea what it is) 3)The depth is not sufficent for most aftermarket stereos The bottomline is that you will have trouble installing any aftermarket stereo in 01 and after pro. IF you are into this kind of stuff my advice will be to stay away from protege.
The '00 and before pros had a different kind of stereo which was easy to upgrade. Also the front speakers are nonstandard size (6 by 8) when most cars seem to have 6 by 9.
Even though I like my pro, this incident makes me think if I made a mistake in buying it. I agree stereo is the most important stuff but why would mazda go in for non standard stuff.
Comments
Speakers... Pioneer
vocus:
I would say a new radio under warranty. If the head unit is cutting out, a seperate amp won't help. And I am pretty sure you can't really change the amp in the head unit. It would probably be cheaper just to buy a new aftermarket head unit. Perhaps with an MP3 capable CD player and XM radio reception...
FS-ZE (j-spec engine)
Viper alarm
TenzoR 17's/Kumho tires
Pacesetter shortshifter
Bosal cat-back
K&N cone filter
Custom grille
Indiglo gauges
foglights
clear corners
Kenwood MP3 player
Kenwood/Pioneer speakers
strutbar (on the way)
shift knob/pedals
future:
B&G springs 1.5"/ e-spec struts
mazdaspeed flywheel and exhaust cam
Wow - that list makes impressive reading! I'm sure the VA/DC area Protege owners would love to meet with you at MAPP!
As, of course, will I - after I move to the area in a couple of months!
Wlecome to the Protege forums, Jeremy!
-ashu
-Pacesetter 2.25" Exhaust tubing
-Dynomax superturbo muffler with brospeed tip
-Weapon*R intake kit
-RX7 VAF airflow meter
-Tokico Struts
-B+G Lowering springs
-Tenzo R 17" wheels with nitto 450 rubber
-jvc MP3 head unit
-blaupunkt 5.25's in front
-kenwood 6x9's in rear
-infinity basslink sub
-hotwires hose kit
-momo shift knob and shift boot
-Pacesetter short shifter kit (not installed)
-Bronzeoil shifter bushing (not installed)
-Mirage spoiler (not installed.....going to mod it to fit)
-Compass MOtorsports Cold Air extension (on order)
Future mods:
-BPT 1.8 Motor with haltech ecu, starion intercooler, turboxs BOV and boost controller, etc.
-Mazdstyle "Combat" bodykit
-Konig Rated R wheels
-Painted side moldings
-jspec bumper
-familia rear garnish
-stiffer suspension bushings
-compass motorsports rear sway bar
mattlee - are you looking to get a drop in filter or replace the stock airbox with a cone filter?
CompetitionSound.com. They beat both 800.com AND
Crutchfield.
My system is being delivered 10/2 ordered 9/26 - not bad.
Pioneer KEHP6010 Cassette player 170.45
Pioneer CDXP670 - 6 disc CD changer148.43
Will advise to performance after installation.
I'd be curious to know about your experience with the system and installation after you receive it. I'd also like to know where you installed it, and if you had any trouble. I'm thinking under one of the front seats would be best. Also, why did you go for the 6-disc when the 12-disc costs barely $14 more - is the 12-disc too large and cumbersome to fit under the seat?
btw, Crutchfield guarantees that you will receive ALL accessories needed to set up and install the CD changer (cables, cords, brackets, screws, bolts as well as their own vehicle- and system-specific instruction sheet). Let me know if you end up having to buy anything extra or going to a lot of trouble figuring ou how to install it.
Good luck with setting up your new sound system!
99p-8-050 CORK SPORT "MS Style" front bumper (99, 00) $375
99p-8-051 CORK SPORT "MS Style" side skirts (99, 00) $250
http://www.geocities.com/firstgenprotege/bptmotor.htm
I can't wait til i am running 15 psi with 220 WHEEL HP!!!
Use the existing keyless remotes I have or new ones?
thanks,
Trevor
I've heard so many horror stories about botched install jobs with loose wires, mounting screws going through panels into wiring on the other side etc.. I know there are probably better alarms out there, but I'm getting a pretty good deal on the Mazda alarm and will do the install myself, I've done several myself in the past.
-Trevor
Decided to install it myself after getting a $80 quote from Circuit City and a $50 plus parts (which I didn't need) quote from a couple of no-name local audio shops.
Got a friend (or two) to help, and picked the trunk (under the bag platform area) for the install (didn't like the idea of fishing around under a dusty seat/carpet and people possibly kicking the changer there!
My Pioneer head unit (KEH-P2800, cassette and tuner only) had been hardwired and soldered, but luckily the only cable I needed to connnect was accessible and easy to resolder. Ran the funky and convenient cable that carries all kinds of signals along the right side firewall (under all those plastic thingies along the side and middle of the car) through the carpet, enough place there for cables. Running it to the trunk was a pain (95 DX does not have folding seats, don't know if that would have helped!)
The toughest part was scoping the location for install (metal plate under the baggage deck) and drilling the holes (1/4 inch). The carpet/cloth around the rear speakers above this emtallic section was pain to remove! And its claustrophobic inside the trunk, while you're awkwardly positioned listening to and holding the loud drill.
But the location is incredibly convenient, I lose almost no space that I ever use, and the sound is awesome!
Unfortunately my head unit can't read the CD-Text info off the changer unit but I can program names and tracks for 100 CDs that it will recognize, and won't lose, even if the battery is disconnected for a while!
Of course, my inexperience meant that it took my 4 hours of light work, with a friend working - but was very satisfying to complete! Oh, and did I mention I was on the phone with a tech for 15-20 minutes, while he gave me a bunch of tips/instructions/precautions - crutchfield has great service and this incredible 30-day no-questions money-back warranty (I'll stop before 'sales rep' cover!)
Wish I'd taken pictures of the install, but would be glad to help anyone considering a CD-changer upgrade (they're under 200 for most brands' 6 disc changers, good deal if you didn't pop for the changer as an option, and don't want to shell out the accessory price and let the dealer gouge you)
BTW, the OEM Mazda head unit is compatible with Sanyo changers (or so I'm given to understand). Didn't someone mention Proteges had Pioneer speakers and Kenwood head-units? (on a side note, ALL my components are now Pioneer, figures, since I live in Utah!)
Next upgrade, semi-decent (Pioneer?) speakers! Expect another quick(?) report in a few months!
Meade
My wife had a set of D60A2s (w/ JLB) that were decent. These are supposed to replace them and are supposed to be much better. Traction is rated AA and heat-buildup resistance is rated A.
Not much info on Tire Rack yet. I may spring the extra $$ for these over the AVID T4s.
I thought about putting alloys on my '99 LX, but I'm now leaning towards keeping my steel rims and saving my money in case they 1) put a turbo engine into a Pro or 2) the RX-8 works out for me (so far as my fitting into the thing).
Are those Dunlops available in 195/55R15? If so, I'll add them to my list of tires to consider to replace my crappy Bridgestone Poortenzas next month. So far I'm leaning toward Yokohama AVID T4s.
Meade
This time around, my wife decided to go with Bridgestone RE930s. She says they're quieter than the D60A2s (of course, the Dunlops were over 4 years old by then). The Dunlops did get kind of hard and noisy later in their lives, but otherwise were good tires.
I have to say my wife is on the lax side of car maintenance (she didn't replace her tires until the sidewall on one blew...old age). I'm a little towards the fanatical side myself. Usually wash my car every 2 weeks. I'm almost beside myself since I haven't been able to wash my cars properly in over 2 months!
And I didn't check the label on the speakers when I was jammed up in my trunk, its claustrophobic enough in there to deter one from stopping to smell the roses, to put it mildly! And I do believe that the trunk has an inside release catch, but I had a friend helping me and standing by, just in case!
I'm hearing a resonance/vibration from my right front door speaker with anything over moderate bass, is this a sure sign of a ripped/damaged speaker? What (basic) speakers to people recommend, or have used before, to replace the factory speakers? I was thinking of doing this anyway, because in the 95, the rear deck speakers are MUCH louder and clearer than the door speakers (I heat its the other way round in new Proteges and Protege5's). I have a Pioneer unit with a small built in amp that can support 4x45 watts - now is that PMPO or RMS? And are all speakers for cars the same impedance - (2, 4, 8 or 16)?
TIA
For more power, look into putting in a dedicated amp.
I like my aftermarket Pioneers. You want to look for non-paper cones (or at least moisture-proofed paper cones), 2-way (or more), non-foam surrounds (buytl rubber, synthetic rubber or coated fiber). Impedance can vary. Check to see what your receiver requires. If it's not a match, the speakers will still work, just not as efficiently (not all the power will go to driving the speaker coil).
Usually, the foam surround is what breaks in factory-original speakers. This allows the edges of the cones to wave freely. This will be a high-frequency "scratchy" sound, usu. at higher volumes. It may also be that the door trim panel isn't fastened done completely around its periphery. This was the case with my passenger-door panel. The assembler just wasn't careful to make sure all the plastic pop fasteners were installed correctly. It was easy enough to pop into place and that took care of the rattling. Of course, I discovered this only when I removed the panel to install new speakers.
My only complaint about the stock stereo is that I have to turn the volume up nearly all the way to hear some CDs well. (I guess CDs are like tapes in that respect -- recording levels can vary -- because some of my CDs are like that and some aren't.) Maybe somewhere down the road I'll install a small amp -- but after doing this kind of installation in about 10 other cars, I don't look forward to it. These days, with the way dashboards and wiring harnesses are built, I'd probably gladly pay Circuit City or Best Buy a few bucks to do it for me!
Meade
thanks for the help.
I agree with meade about the varying CD volume levels - it can get really irritating! Especially with a 6-CD changer! I suspect it has something to do with CD quality, source quality and recording quality. All my BMG (12 for the price of 1!) CDs are much softer than my store bought cds. And don't even get me started on burnt CDs - if I ever forget to normalize the volume on source songs/mp3s before burning to a CD, there are amazing volume level variations from one song to another!
Why can't they design a constant sound-output volume (or loudness?) control. Set it to a certain level, and it changes the level of amplification to make any song sound as close to that level as possible. I'm sure this should be easy to implement in today's modern audio gadgetry!
I purchased my Mondial unit from Bike Nashbar. Performance Bike sells it under their own name.
You can check out any local bike shop. They'll likely carry Thule, Yakima, Saris. Those are the main mfrs. of roof carrier systems. They and others make trunk-mounted carriers and trailer-hitch-mounted carriers. You'll have to decide what type of system works best for you.
A few things about the roof rack:
I think the Pro is rated to carry only a little over 100lbs, including the rack.
You'll have to heft your bike up there, which you don't have to do with a trunk-mount carrier.
There's a lot more wind noise and air resistance with a roof vs. trunk-mount.
Make sure to remove your bikes before going into your garage.
The clips usually create gaps between your door weatherstripping and the door frames, which will cause some water to leak past the weatherstripping during rain storms. So, you'll want to remove your rack when you're not actively using it. Trunk or hitch-mount systems usually don't compromise weather seals.
However, they don't impact your visibility and they can be configured to carry skis etc. They also look much cooler.
-hari
I've replaced the stock 13" rims, with Accura 14" rims with the correct ofset, installed a set of Yokohama's Avid H4 (quiet ride) and after much experimenting with trye pressures, set the frnts @35psi, rears @ 26.
Besides the excessive road noise concern, what about upgrading the suspension with a larger anti-roll bar, and one for the rear (has none). I also understand that the previous generation rear disc brakes (complete with spindle, hub, caliper, rotor, parking brake cables with fit as a direct swap and that I don't need to replace either the proportioning valve or master. Can anyone shed some light on either or these issues.
Thanks in advance,
Dennisjhs
I thought the stock horn was pretty good until the brain donor in the lane next to me on the freeway kept coming into my lane even after I started honking (thank goodness for good brakes and solid handling)
Thanks
Multi-color LEDs are used in some devices (think some auto receivers and some mini-DV camera buttons). They let you choose amongst the available colors (usually red, green, blue) in the LEDs.
That would be a cool feature that's not currently available in automobiles (except in the radio/receiver portion). Plus the LEDs would likely never have to be changed during the lifetime of the Pro, so you'd never have blacked-out displays due to burned-out bulbs. I think some GMs use LEDs in their IPs as well as in the tail-light and brake-light assemblies.
1) The existing stereo in 01 pro is double DIN(I have seen very few cars have it)
2)It is not mounted on the dash but snapped in. So there are no mounts to install Aftermarket stuff(The tech was talking about something called ISO mount. I have no idea what it is)
3)The depth is not sufficent for most aftermarket stereos
The bottomline is that you will have trouble installing any aftermarket stereo in 01 and after pro. IF you are into this kind of stuff my advice will be to stay away from protege.
The '00 and before pros had a different kind of stereo which was easy to upgrade.
Also the front speakers are nonstandard size (6 by 8) when most cars seem to have 6 by 9.
Even though I like my pro, this incident makes me think if I made a mistake in buying it. I agree stereo is the most important stuff but why would mazda go in for non standard stuff.