I figured it was the belt as well, but at 6,400 miles I figured I would make GM replace it!! It just amazes me all these noises that these new engines can make when cold...especially with all this technology, you'd think this stuff wouldn't happen anymore. Never remember my 350 in my 97 1500 making any of these noises when cold. Oh well, I plan on keeping this for a while anyway, with the pics of the 03's now official, I don't think I would want to trade for another Chevy. I dislike that front end BIG time...
Guess what my keyboard went out this morning. Wont type a darn thing. Gotta send it to tennessee this afternoon for repairs. Wont get it back till tues/wed
Ryan & Bob, if the squeal continues after dealer replaces just get out the ole WD40 and spray it on the belt, the noise will disappear. I had to do this numerous times on my old 88 4.3's surpentine belt.
i had 96 silverado with belt squeal. dealer put on new belt, no squeal for a couple months but then it started again. on my next visit i complained about the constant squeal. dealer put on new belt and told me one of the pulleys was slightly out of line which was causing the problem. never had any more problem with the belt
They stated the belt was bad and that they (GM) had actually changed the design for the 2001's. Anyway they didn't have the belt in stock so they have to order it and will put in on when it comes in. They also said the source of the rattle coming from the passenger seat was a misaligned seat track due to it not being torqued down properly at the factory. Anyway they re-aligned it and the noise went away. So if anyone has a rattling noise coming from the passenger seat when going over bumps this may help you... Off to go pick up my baby!! L8TR, Bob
Still wish someone out there with more time on their hands than me would find out why I might be in trouble when I chain up my front end, which I will next Jan. on my new 1500HD which is due to arrive mid April. I have only perused this forum for about a month, but have noticed that it is dominated by a few individuals so I will again chalange a couple of you, what's up with this, to the best of my knowledge Ford and DC are not issuing this this warning, and it ain't no clearance issue. I guess I could ask "them" directly why this warning, and if my engine ping is normal. If I don't hear any thing from you guys and I do FU@# up my new truck I will be sure to post some pictures for RYAN.
is referring to the fact that the same questions that come up are the same ones we have discussed over the last 3 years, and the same know-it-alls come in with the same exact answers. before you were here TXYANK1, there was a lot of good conversation (and some good ol fashion bashin), but for some reason (gee i wonder), they have all but left this site. too bad too, cause with those members went along some excellent sources of info. a newbie nowadays is at the mercy of the ones who have chosen to stick around, and still wish they had the answers. not to mention the fact that one character is still running around through all the topics and causing havoc to the point of "topic shutdown", but that is another issue that needs to be dealt with, and until it does, you'll see the loss of more members that would otherwise like to read the info that Edmunds had intended this site for.
I'm thinking about upgrading to some better speakers. In looking at the service manual, it appears that the OEM speakers have a couple of flanges on one end, acting as a hinge, and a snap on the other. Looking at the Crutchfield catalog I don't see anything like it. How have others put standard aftermarket speakers in the factory openings?
02'silverado ext.4x4 373 5.3 4,800 miles in 4 wheel Hi at 45-50 the front differential will howl,took it to get looked at and the dealer agreed with me and tried to fix the problem,when they disassembled the unit they found noting wrong but did replace the bearings and checked pinion depth so they say.Anyone know how they set up the front differential ring and pinion on the silverado? It still howls.
I notice a simular noise in my 01 2500 ld . But it seems at all speeds when in 4 hi or autotrac ! MY other GMs 90-94-97s did about the same thing in 4 wd. I had the dealer check'em out. You know the "problem not found" written on the repair invoice routine ! OH well never had a problem with 4 wd in any of them anyway ! Keep us posted on any results or solutions..........Geo
The recommendations not to use chains on any front wheel drive may have several origins. However, my experience has shown that a typical Constant velocity joint may be disassembled (on the bench) using the similar angles which would be generated when turning the steering wheel to an extreme in either direction. Chains create uneven friction and could enough stress to cause the joint to come apart.
Chains probably would not be a serious problem if you did not turn very far to the left or right (unlikely where you would even consider using chains).
CV joint damage could be caused even without chains if the friction on the driving wheel was irratic and the steering wheel at an extreme.
For a detailed description of CV joints try this link! If it does not work, go to Google: & search for (constant velocity universal joints)
Hunter, this may have something to do with your situation. TSB 00-04-20-001A "2 Cut vs. 5 Cut Axle Ring and Pinion Gearsets" Issued 11/2001
To make a long story short; there are different gear sets in production and service. The service manuals, though, are written for the 5 cut gearsets. Technicians are having a hard time setting up 2 cut gearsets using the paterns for 5 cut gearsets. Aparentely there is a difference in how it is done. If you have a 2 cut gearset and the tech trys to set it up using the pattern pictures for the 5 cut gearset, it is likely to make noise.
The TSB goes on and on with further instructions and pictures of differences in patterns.
BTW you can not tell which you have until the axle cover is pulled, and the "toe to heel tooth height of the ring gear is mesured".
Today my family and I went out shopping. We were in my truck on the highway and we were coming up on a Tundra, it was nice and clean and shiny. My truck on the other hand looked like crap, I haven't washed it this week and we got snow last week. As we were passing it my wife said "hey, that's a nice truck" and I said grrrr, don't say that. She says "no, I mean for me...it looks like a girls truck...I would drive that truck". I was laughing my [non-permissible content removed] off.
My neighbor has a tundra with several bumper stickers.One says "silly boy,trucks are for girls".One is just a big rainbow.My neighbor looks like a man,but isn't really.What she drives looks like a truck,but isn't really.I guess some people like to dress up and pretend. kip
Looks great! More and more like a good old big mouth bass. This redesign and the current HD front end are the only Chevy fronts I like better than the GMC.
Whipple Superchargers used to have a discussion forum.Someone there posted info about a shop in the LA area.They were doing the conversion for around $30k ! The trans in your V6 truck might need to be swapped out as well. kip
Is still based on the old big-block, which in current production is a 496. The $30 K seems a bit high, but then again, things to ponder:
Engine (crate 502) Carb or fuel injection Exhaust Transmission Driveshaft Rear-end Cooling system Computer (ECM) & adapters so all guages work front suspension to handle weight labor for all of this and then what about emissions...
You're better off putting a 454 in the Rado. The 502 will pose ALOT of problems. Most of which will occur in the CPU, and front end. Then if the 4l60-E auto you probably have can take the power(Which I think it can). Also think of the rear end and adding some weight there. That truck with a 502 in the rain think of the nightmares!!! The 454 and 502 are the same engines with dofferent bore and stroke. The 454 is better and can be put right in without alot of hassle. I would go 454!
Opinions expressed related to Silverado's are appreciated but.... Obyone has an e-mail address, why don't you send your rhetoric personally rather than getting into bashing once again on this forum, it's boring. Please !
Has anyone had the throttle to stick when first depressing the accelerator? There is a slight hesitation. Almost leaps when depressing further. A neighbor guesses that it is a bad throttle body. Any suggestions? '00 Silverado 5.3 liter with 19K miles.
Models: 1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pick Up Models (Silverado and Sierra) with 4.8 L, 5.3 L, or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOS LR4, LM7, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice: DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced Idle Air Control valve durability.
1. Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
2. Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange.
The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge, on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.
3. If the Date Code is 2979, or earlier, replace the Throttle Body Assembly.
DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Body Assemblies.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information
I just tried the 4 drive wheel yesterday its worst now than it was before I took it in, as your stopping you here alot of gear noise and you don't need to apply the breaks it binds up to the point it wont move I'm going to see a different deal on Wed.I will keep you posted.
I called the dealer about an appointment to get the sticky throttle fixed. They said that at 15K miles it needed to have the air induction system cleaned to solve this problem (I now have 19K). (sounds like smoke to me, If I had said that I have 10K, it would have needed the work at 9K). Also he said that the famous drive line clunk is solved with lubricating the splines rather than replace the yoke. (Is this also a yoke, sorry couldn't help it). Seems they will do anything to avoid warranty work. Charge the customer as much as you can for everything but, then do warranty work?
Hey Dusty, glad to see you still hangin' here. I had the dealer lube the steering shaft and it seems to have worked. The SA at the dealer has a 'rado and said that the special lube for the yoke works and if I felt I wanted it done would do it. apparently the GM field reps are send ing the word out to the dealers about the special lubes to try and control warranty costs so sales can offer 0% financing....BWHAHAHAHAHA
have a new 2002 2500HD LT 6L 4x4 SB. took delivery last sept 18,2001. have 11000 miles on it now. i'm just wondering if a if this is normal... when the truck is moving 15mph or more, when i switch from 2hi to 4hi, it makes a loud noise. i can hear the transfer case engage loud enough. i have a 98 s10 blazer 4x4, it doesn't do it.
anyone checked out or have the hard bed cover from gm. kinda like the one the avalanche has. i think it's a 3 piece aluminum unless i'm mistaken. i'm thinking of buying a bed cover but i don't really want the soft tonneau or any of those fiberglass. i'd also hate to screw anything on the rails.
Trying to decide if this is normal. I'm thinking it isn't.
Had autotrac engaged a couple days ago. Turned into our parking lot and heard a sort of higher-pitched groan from the front end. The resistance to movement was normal, but the noise was odd. It repeats itself. Almost sound like the noise you get when heavy pieces of metal are rubbibg on each other. No unusual noises when the truck was going straight, only when turning a corner.
Not liking that...has anyone else heard the same thing. hunter48? No odd noises at speed, just the normal gear train sounds of 4x4 engaged.
Say Matthew, I am really enjoying my Flowmasters, love the sound. You were correct about them. These are the ones that GM should have made standard.
The Service Advisor said that even after lubricating the spines that the noise will come back in a short time, so I was hoping to get the yoke replaced under warranty. (OBYONE, where is that yoke replacement TSB?). I'll go pay for the lube job, then hope that will not work so I can get the chrome plated? one...
The sticking accelerator needs to be cleaned by the dealer for $120 at one dealer and $80 at another. What does a can of gumout cost? Shouldn't this do the trick? A friend said that carburator cleaner smells like mineral spirits so he adds a glug of it to his tank ever so often. ( a glug is slightly more than a smiggen, but more than a slug). Is anyone else having the sticking accelerator pedal?
heard the nickle plated slip yoke isnt working. Works about as good as the lubing. Also heard gm is advising dealers not to install the new yoke because gm is designing a newer version
I too have a 01 2500 ld xcab. Notice it makes a lot of racket engaging in autotrac especially when making tight turns also in 4 hi snowplowing. I have the locker too ! My 97 excab did about the same thing. Never a failure or breakage on any of my GMs 90-94-97 4 wds and i snowplowed with them all. Run HARD and put away wet. Yea I took em' to the dealer ! You know the old song and dance ! PROBLEM NOT FOUND ! i DON'T care cuz i trade em' every 3-4 yrs and always under warranty ! Mr. dealer loves a 3 yo GM xcab 4x4 trade in. Top dollar paid. But i am lucky because I get GM employee discount ! Keep us posted. .........Geo
If the sticking accelerator clean up job for $120 by the dealer doesn't work, will he not charge you for it? Binding throttle cable maybe, but more than likely a bad fit on the throttle blade which no cleaning would help. GM advises against any adjustment or cleaning on the blade. Kinda shows what they think of their techs I guess. By checking the date code on the throttle body and finding if its 2979 or earlier requires that the throttle body be replaced. There are three sets of numbers located on the underside of the throttle body. One is five digit, another is two, and the four digit is the julian date of the throttle body. It is a pain to get to but if you're still under warranty I would check it myself to be sure.
What Ryan says is true regarding the yoke. May as well have it lubed and wait for the new and improved third version of the yoke. Maybe by 2005, they will get it right. Sometimes I wonder where GM gets their design engineers.
Save yourself the $$ and lube your truck's yoke splines at home. It's a simple 15 minute job. Like Ryan said, the nickel plated slip yoke isn't doing the job so we're still waiting for a permanent fix. How much does the dealer charge to do this?
Greasing the yoke splines works excellently for several months, and then the noise returns in most cases. I've done mine twice now and how I wish GM would have put a grease fitting on the yoke to avoid removal of the propeller shaft each time. The easiest fix, as far as I'm concerned, would be for GM to replace the current yoke with one that has a simple grease zerk! That way a few simple shots of grease every few months would be all you'd need to do to avoid the noise.
I'll bet that requirement is based on the dealers custom printed scheduled maintenance service booklet. Ask this dealer to show you were in the Manufacturers scheduled maintenance this is, he won't be able to because GM does not require it. Does the dealer also tell you to change oil every 3000 miles, GM says 7500 so who's right?? As you said it's a money making machine for the dealers.
Nothing p's me off more then dishonest dealers trying to make a buck on uninformed customers.
When I install the stainless prop on my boat (or our Harbormaster boats) I use a Mercury lube "Quicksilver 2-4-C" on the shaft splines. It makes it easier to remove the props in the fall, but also absorbs the slop in the prop to spline clearance that exagerates the "clunk" when shifting fwd to rev. Wonder if something like this is the magical lube that GM dealers are using? It is tooo damn cold here right now and I am exhausted at the end of the day (doing electrical contractor work) to take the shaft out to try it. But this discussion has got me thinking... Any further ideas?
BTW Dusty I would check out the numbers like Oby says and push for a warranty repair.
Comments
It just amazes me all these noises that these new engines can make when cold...especially with all this technology, you'd think this stuff wouldn't happen anymore. Never remember my 350 in my 97 1500 making any of these noises when cold. Oh well, I plan on keeping this for a while anyway, with the pics of the 03's now official, I don't think I would want to trade for another Chevy. I dislike that front end BIG time...
Bob
Guess what my keyboard went out this morning. Wont type a darn thing. Gotta send it to tennessee this afternoon for repairs. Wont get it back till tues/wed
I wont be around for awhile
(i am typing with my keyboard from a desktop)
Mwhahahahaahhaaaa
....course what's going to happen with the HD look?
- Tim
Ray T.
Use a powder cleanser like Comet, will work great!!
Off to go pick up my baby!!
L8TR,
Bob
Don't you think it is possible that the tire to body clearance is tighter on one truck (GM) than the others?
Mike L
Sorry
not to mention the fact that one character is still running around through all the topics and causing havoc to the point of "topic shutdown", but that is another issue that needs to be dealt with, and until it does, you'll see the loss of more members that would otherwise like to read the info that Edmunds had intended this site for.
Thanks
Erik
2500 ld . But it seems at all speeds
when in 4 hi or autotrac !
MY other GMs 90-94-97s did about
the same thing in 4 wd. I had the
dealer check'em out. You know the
"problem not found" written on the
repair invoice routine ! OH well
never had a problem with 4 wd in any
of them anyway ! Keep us posted on
any results or solutions..........Geo
Chains probably would not be a serious problem if you did not turn very far to the left or right (unlikely where you would even consider using chains).
CV joint damage could be caused even without chains if the friction on the driving wheel was irratic and the steering wheel at an extreme.
For a detailed description of CV joints try this link! If it does not work, go to Google: & search for (constant velocity universal joints)
www.tpub.com/basae/118.htm
Ed
To make a long story short; there are different gear sets in production and service. The service manuals, though, are written for the 5 cut gearsets. Technicians are having a hard time setting up 2 cut gearsets using the paterns for 5 cut gearsets. Aparentely there is a difference in how it is done. If you have a 2 cut gearset and the tech trys to set it up using the pattern pictures for the 5 cut gearset, it is likely to make noise.
The TSB goes on and on with further instructions and pictures of differences in patterns.
BTW you can not tell which you have until the axle cover is pulled, and the "toe to heel tooth height of the ring gear is mesured".
Better get your dealer up to date.... hehe
Hope this helps
matthew
-Mark
kip
Tom
kip
Engine (crate 502)
Carb or fuel injection
Exhaust
Transmission
Driveshaft
Rear-end
Cooling system
Computer (ECM) & adapters so all guages work
front suspension to handle weight
labor for all of this
and then what about emissions...
It does add up quickly!
Obyone has an e-mail address, why don't you send your rhetoric personally rather than getting into bashing once again on this forum, it's boring. Please !
Ray T.
'00 Silverado 5.3 liter with 19K miles.
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-007
File In Section:
06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Date: February, 2000
Subject: Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort (Replace Throttle Body)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pick Up Models (Silverado and Sierra)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L, or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOS LR4, LM7, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice: DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced Idle Air Control valve durability.
1. Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
2. Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange.
The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge, on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.
3. If the Date Code is 2979, or earlier, replace the Throttle Body Assembly.
DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Body Assemblies.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use chart.
Let us know how you make out.
matthew
Dell has good customer service
anyone checked out or have the hard bed cover from gm. kinda like the one the avalanche has. i think it's a 3 piece aluminum unless i'm mistaken. i'm thinking of buying a bed cover but i don't really want the soft tonneau or any of those fiberglass. i'd also hate to screw anything on the rails.
http://www.torquemaster.com
Had autotrac engaged a couple days ago. Turned into our parking lot and heard a sort of higher-pitched groan from the front end. The resistance to movement was normal, but the noise was odd. It repeats itself. Almost sound like the noise you get when heavy pieces of metal are rubbibg on each other. No unusual noises when the truck was going straight, only when turning a corner.
Not liking that...has anyone else heard the same thing. hunter48? No odd noises at speed, just the normal gear train sounds of 4x4 engaged.
The Service Advisor said that even after lubricating the spines that the noise will come back in a short time, so I was hoping to get the yoke replaced under warranty. (OBYONE, where is that yoke replacement TSB?). I'll go pay for the lube job, then hope that will not work so I can get the chrome plated? one...
The sticking accelerator needs to be cleaned by the dealer for $120 at one dealer and $80 at another. What does a can of gumout cost? Shouldn't this do the trick? A friend said that carburator cleaner smells like mineral spirits so he adds a glug of it to his tank ever so often. ( a glug is slightly more than a smiggen, but more than a slug). Is anyone else having the sticking accelerator pedal?
a lot of racket engaging in autotrac especially
when making tight turns also in 4 hi snowplowing.
I have the locker too ! My 97 excab did
about the same thing. Never a failure or
breakage on any of my GMs 90-94-97 4 wds
and i snowplowed with them all. Run HARD
and put away wet. Yea I took em' to the
dealer ! You know the old song and dance !
PROBLEM NOT FOUND ! i DON'T care cuz i trade
em' every 3-4 yrs and always under warranty !
Mr. dealer loves a 3 yo GM xcab 4x4 trade
in. Top dollar paid. But i am lucky because
I get GM employee discount ! Keep us posted.
.........Geo
What Ryan says is true regarding the yoke. May as well have it lubed and wait for the new and improved third version of the yoke. Maybe by 2005, they will get it right. Sometimes I wonder where GM gets their design engineers.
Greasing the yoke splines works excellently for several months, and then the noise returns in most cases. I've done mine twice now and how I wish GM would have put a grease fitting on the yoke to avoid removal of the propeller shaft each time. The easiest fix, as far as I'm concerned, would be for GM to replace the current yoke with one that has a simple grease zerk! That way a few simple shots of grease every few months would be all you'd need to do to avoid the noise.
Nothing p's me off more then dishonest dealers trying to make a buck on uninformed customers.
Ray T.
When I install the stainless prop on my boat (or our Harbormaster boats) I use a Mercury lube "Quicksilver 2-4-C" on the shaft splines. It makes it easier to remove the props in the fall, but also absorbs the slop in the prop to spline clearance that exagerates the "clunk" when shifting fwd to rev. Wonder if something like this is the magical lube that GM dealers are using? It is tooo damn cold here right now and I am exhausted at the end of the day (doing electrical contractor work) to take the shaft out to try it. But this discussion has got me thinking... Any further ideas?
BTW Dusty I would check out the numbers like Oby says and push for a warranty repair.
matthew