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Comments
It just amazes me all these noises that these new engines can make when cold...especially with all this technology, you'd think this stuff wouldn't happen anymore. Never remember my 350 in my 97 1500 making any of these noises when cold. Oh well, I plan on keeping this for a while anyway, with the pics of the 03's now official, I don't think I would want to trade for another Chevy. I dislike that front end BIG time...
Bob
Guess what my keyboard went out this morning. Wont type a darn thing. Gotta send it to tennessee this afternoon for repairs. Wont get it back till tues/wed
I wont be around for awhile
(i am typing with my keyboard from a desktop)
Mwhahahahaahhaaaa
....course what's going to happen with the HD look?
- Tim
Ray T.
Use a powder cleanser like Comet, will work great!!
Off to go pick up my baby!!
L8TR,
Bob
Don't you think it is possible that the tire to body clearance is tighter on one truck (GM) than the others?
Mike L
Sorry
not to mention the fact that one character is still running around through all the topics and causing havoc to the point of "topic shutdown", but that is another issue that needs to be dealt with, and until it does, you'll see the loss of more members that would otherwise like to read the info that Edmunds had intended this site for.
Thanks
Erik
2500 ld . But it seems at all speeds
when in 4 hi or autotrac !
MY other GMs 90-94-97s did about
the same thing in 4 wd. I had the
dealer check'em out. You know the
"problem not found" written on the
repair invoice routine ! OH well
never had a problem with 4 wd in any
of them anyway ! Keep us posted on
any results or solutions..........Geo
Chains probably would not be a serious problem if you did not turn very far to the left or right (unlikely where you would even consider using chains).
CV joint damage could be caused even without chains if the friction on the driving wheel was irratic and the steering wheel at an extreme.
For a detailed description of CV joints try this link! If it does not work, go to Google: & search for (constant velocity universal joints)
www.tpub.com/basae/118.htm
Ed
To make a long story short; there are different gear sets in production and service. The service manuals, though, are written for the 5 cut gearsets. Technicians are having a hard time setting up 2 cut gearsets using the paterns for 5 cut gearsets. Aparentely there is a difference in how it is done. If you have a 2 cut gearset and the tech trys to set it up using the pattern pictures for the 5 cut gearset, it is likely to make noise.
The TSB goes on and on with further instructions and pictures of differences in patterns.
BTW you can not tell which you have until the axle cover is pulled, and the "toe to heel tooth height of the ring gear is mesured".
Better get your dealer up to date.... hehe
Hope this helps
matthew
-Mark
kip
Tom
kip
Engine (crate 502)
Carb or fuel injection
Exhaust
Transmission
Driveshaft
Rear-end
Cooling system
Computer (ECM) & adapters so all guages work
front suspension to handle weight
labor for all of this
and then what about emissions...
It does add up quickly!
Obyone has an e-mail address, why don't you send your rhetoric personally rather than getting into bashing once again on this forum, it's boring. Please !
Ray T.
'00 Silverado 5.3 liter with 19K miles.
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-007
File In Section:
06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Date: February, 2000
Subject: Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort (Replace Throttle Body)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pick Up Models (Silverado and Sierra)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L, or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOS LR4, LM7, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice: DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced Idle Air Control valve durability.
1. Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
2. Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange.
The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge, on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.
3. If the Date Code is 2979, or earlier, replace the Throttle Body Assembly.
DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Body Assemblies.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use chart.
Let us know how you make out.
matthew
Dell has good customer service
anyone checked out or have the hard bed cover from gm. kinda like the one the avalanche has. i think it's a 3 piece aluminum unless i'm mistaken. i'm thinking of buying a bed cover but i don't really want the soft tonneau or any of those fiberglass. i'd also hate to screw anything on the rails.
http://www.torquemaster.com
Had autotrac engaged a couple days ago. Turned into our parking lot and heard a sort of higher-pitched groan from the front end. The resistance to movement was normal, but the noise was odd. It repeats itself. Almost sound like the noise you get when heavy pieces of metal are rubbibg on each other. No unusual noises when the truck was going straight, only when turning a corner.
Not liking that...has anyone else heard the same thing. hunter48? No odd noises at speed, just the normal gear train sounds of 4x4 engaged.
The Service Advisor said that even after lubricating the spines that the noise will come back in a short time, so I was hoping to get the yoke replaced under warranty. (OBYONE, where is that yoke replacement TSB?). I'll go pay for the lube job, then hope that will not work so I can get the chrome plated? one...
The sticking accelerator needs to be cleaned by the dealer for $120 at one dealer and $80 at another. What does a can of gumout cost? Shouldn't this do the trick? A friend said that carburator cleaner smells like mineral spirits so he adds a glug of it to his tank ever so often. ( a glug is slightly more than a smiggen, but more than a slug). Is anyone else having the sticking accelerator pedal?
a lot of racket engaging in autotrac especially
when making tight turns also in 4 hi snowplowing.
I have the locker too ! My 97 excab did
about the same thing. Never a failure or
breakage on any of my GMs 90-94-97 4 wds
and i snowplowed with them all. Run HARD
and put away wet. Yea I took em' to the
dealer ! You know the old song and dance !
PROBLEM NOT FOUND ! i DON'T care cuz i trade
em' every 3-4 yrs and always under warranty !
Mr. dealer loves a 3 yo GM xcab 4x4 trade
in. Top dollar paid. But i am lucky because
I get GM employee discount ! Keep us posted.
.........Geo
What Ryan says is true regarding the yoke. May as well have it lubed and wait for the new and improved third version of the yoke. Maybe by 2005, they will get it right. Sometimes I wonder where GM gets their design engineers.
Greasing the yoke splines works excellently for several months, and then the noise returns in most cases. I've done mine twice now and how I wish GM would have put a grease fitting on the yoke to avoid removal of the propeller shaft each time. The easiest fix, as far as I'm concerned, would be for GM to replace the current yoke with one that has a simple grease zerk! That way a few simple shots of grease every few months would be all you'd need to do to avoid the noise.
Nothing p's me off more then dishonest dealers trying to make a buck on uninformed customers.
Ray T.
When I install the stainless prop on my boat (or our Harbormaster boats) I use a Mercury lube "Quicksilver 2-4-C" on the shaft splines. It makes it easier to remove the props in the fall, but also absorbs the slop in the prop to spline clearance that exagerates the "clunk" when shifting fwd to rev. Wonder if something like this is the magical lube that GM dealers are using? It is tooo damn cold here right now and I am exhausted at the end of the day (doing electrical contractor work) to take the shaft out to try it. But this discussion has got me thinking... Any further ideas?
BTW Dusty I would check out the numbers like Oby says and push for a warranty repair.
matthew