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Comments
I am getting a thud noise in the back above (very top, headliner?) the pass side 3rd door when i hit a bump.
Also my steering wheels squeaks when turning when its cold outside. Sounds like something is rubbing together inside.
It really needs to warm up outside
Ray T.
Ryan
2001 Silverado 1500 4WD Extended Cab -
1) Finally found a front end leveling kit after many moons of searching. This has been a major pain... This kit is from Hill 4 Wheel Drive. All it does is replace the torsion bar adjustment cams with new ones indexed in such a way as to increase the pre-load on the torsion bars while keeping the cam angle down such that it isn't hitting the cross member above (as is what happens when you crank up the stock torsion bars). Sounds like a relatively easy way to level up the front end without going to a 4" lift (with all its pros and cons).
Only question is has anyone heard of this kit? What do you think about the added pre-load to the torsion bars? I think it will slightly increase the ride stiffness in the front, but likely not much more than how it feels now with the torsion bars cranked up. The added stress could also increase the fatigue loading and cause premature weakening of the bars / or breakage. I can't imagine that the increase in load is significant enough to make a huge difference though. Any thoughts or experiences????
2) Do 285/75 R16 BFG TA/KO tires fit without major rubbing with the stock suspension? I would imagine the front end leveling would improve clearance as well.
3) I've read quite a bit here about vibrations. I have one that may or may not be similar. This is the 5.3 L motor. Happens in 2HI (not sure about 4 HI or Autotrak). At about 35 to 45 mph with slight throttle pressure (like that required to maintain constant speed on a slight incline). About every 15 to 30 seconds I hear and feel this random grinding sound (lasts for about 1 to 2 seconds), you have to have the windows up and the music off to hear it, but even passengers can detect it (so it's not my paranoid brain). Seems like drive-train (tranny or transfer case) but not sure. It does it when all warmed up too. Any thoughts? Could it just be because it only gets to 10° F maximum here in Northen Utah these days. But it seems like it was doing it last Fall when it was still relatively warm outside.
4) Which performance upgrades have people done and actually noticed any difference? K&N intake? (did this to my Cherokee and noticed no HP difference). Exhaust? (I have changed the muffler, but not the cat; sounds better, but no noticeable difference in power). Throttle body spacer? Programmer? Any others? Has anyone actually paid the $4K and installed a Whipple charger? (I don't think I'd ever do that, would rather spend the $$ on upgrades to my 1966 Mustang's 289). I just think it would be interesting to know.
Thanks much for any info you can give. I really love the truck, I really got it for utility, but now I just like to drive it plain and simple.
On another note, I love my Duramax!
Hunter
2. 285's. Some guys have some rubbing, some don't. The rubbing is more pronounced with aftermarket wheels with more offset.
3. Your vibrations sound like the torque converter locking up. Try pushing the Tow/Haul button and see if it changes the speed at which this happens. If it is the torque converter lock up, it may be very normal.
4. No upgrades at my house, but lots of guys have done all you listed, and you will get input from them.
Mike L
Any TSB number for this so I can catch up to you guys?
Thanks,
Dano
Driveline clunk? What is required to remove the driveshaft so as to apply the lubricant? Matthew, have you thought about drilling a hole, tapping it, and installing a 6mm zerk? That does not seem to be such a difficult thing to do. When it warms up a little, I may give this a try. All of the old style yokes used to have them in the front and rear. (along with several hundred others fittings, or it seems like it, when I lubricated vehicles in the 1950's)
imaginos
your item #3- try drving the same route only this time with your gear select lever in "3" rather than "D". Might be the motor lugging. Cause in an effort to increase mpg GM has programmed these trucks to shift into OD a little early......
as far as mods.....I'd look into an aftermarket catback system, hypertech, tires (GM puts on some really crappy ones), and stereo. For myself, cranking the stereo eliminates, wind noise, any vibrations, and the wife talking.
I'll try both of your suggestions regarding the vibration. It feels more like it could be a torque converter (random hydraulic fluid gurgle deal) than a lugging engine, however, I'll try both suggestions to further troubleshoot it. I'm not even going to talk to the dealer about it until I have a really good clue myself. I'll probably end up having to teach them how to figure out what the problem is.
Obyone - the stero is already done. In fact I could probably loose all the tires and not realize it. It has a Rockford Punch 360 watt rms amp driving a JL audio 12-W3 stealthbox installed under the rear seat; and a Rockford Punch 600 watt amp driving CDTaudio separates up front and Rockford 4x6's in the rear. It is 'loud'. Those JLaudio stealthboxes are amazing. They are designed not only to perfectly fit into and match the capet, but they are engineered to be optimized with respect to their mounting location, direction, and the vehicle cabin. The same sub and amp (with non-optimized box and location) would only sound about 1/2 as good. The bonus is that you can't even tell it has a system by looking in through the windows. Stealth is the key to not having it ripped off - plus don't drive right up to your house with the tunes cranked and that same random white van following you for the last 5 miles!
Is this your truck or is the photo from Crutchfield? This would be cool, but it seems like it was a way lot of $$ even for the empty speakerless boxes. The JL stealthbox with the 12-W3 sub already in it (the only way you can get the stealthbox) was in the $500 range. How much for what I see above, packed with the speakers??
What I had done first was to install a Kenwood eXcelon headunit and changed out the front speakers with some Polk Audios and a 10" powered bazooka. Left it like that for a few months until it was obvious that it wasn't what I wanted. So I added a Kenwood amp, MB Quarts components and Infinity Kappa two way plates in the rear.
Months later the bazooka is starting to irritate me so I guess its time for another upgrade
A split rear seat.
Like the x-cab size. Would love to be able to put a kid on one side of the rear and the hunting dawg on the floor. As it is, I have to either jam the kid up front in the 40/20/40 or let the dawg sit up on the rear seat. A 60/40 rear split would be great.
Of course, if anybody knows of such an aftermarket, please do tell.
Same old song and dance from the dealer !
......Geo
You could also go here and look under posting a photo.
http://www.edmunds.com/help/townhall.html
Also, note how well the carpeting on the box matches the stock carpet - as well as how the Catch-All floor mats match. I'm pretty happy with the matching of all these add-ons from various vendors.
The stuff can be removed, and I would only have to plug two holes through the bottom of the cab floor in order to put it all back stock. So it does not greatly impact the vehicle - and still looks quite clean.
I am still missing the end cover for the amp rack. It will be brushed aluminum (not carpeted) with a grate of angled slots (for air exhaust) made up in the form of two Queensryche symbols (just for fun). Otherwise it's pretty complete. The blue capacitor you see there is attached to a resistor making a filter for the power into the cooling fans. That way I don't hear the fan motors through the speakers (as I did before I added the filter). It's been a lot of work, but so far I'm pretty pleased with the results.
I've tried to crop and scale these images so that they are not much larger than the image posted by obyone last night. Hopefully it doesn't slow anyone down too much. If so, please let me know and I'll delete the message if I can. I hope these pics along with the pic from obyone help anyone thinking about doing this but not wanting to put a huge box on the backseat.
Mckenownsc - Touching up a scratch is quite an art that I don't have fully mastered, but I have a good headstart on it. Did you say the scratch is inside your bed, or on the rear fender part of your bed? If it's on the inside, you won't need to do such a perfect job; mostly you'll just need to keep it protected from rusting (unless your bed is so perfect inside that you wax it when you wax the rest of the panels!). Usually you don't need primer when doing touch-up work. You just need to clean the area of all dirt and wax by using isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. If the scratch is in the inside of your bed, just build up thin layers of touch-up paint down in the scratch crevice until it is about the same height as the surrounding paint. Be sure that there is good wicking between your new paint and the jagged edges of the original paint. Once that's dry, you should be fine.
If the scratch is on the outside fender of your bed, do the same thing as described above. However, once the paint is built up to the level (or just higher) than the surrounding paint, you'll need to let it fully cure, then even it off by color sanding. I'd actually let a body shop do the color sanding. They will sand the area with like 2000 grit wet paper until they work the built up touch-up paint down even with the original paint. Then they'll use a rotary buffer (not to be used if you don't have lots of practice) and buffing compond to buff the scratches from the sandpaper back out of your clearcoat. This will be followed up with polish to bring back the shine, then the area should be re-waxed and protected as normal. Hope this gives you a head start. But get that bare metal covered soon, or you'll be very sorry. You could always leave the sanding and buffing until later if needs be.
danog
Squeaking noise out of the steering? Maybe a better description of squeaking would help? Squeaking sounds more like your front spring insulators rather than your steering. Don't mean to make this sound stupid but can you feel the squeak in the steering? Better yet, how did you determine that the squeak came from the steering? Is it in the cab? Man I sound like I need a beer.
I will let you know how it comes out.
Thanks again
I was referring to the posts starting back at 5501 going through 5504. I have some type of rubbing noise in mine that I thought was normal until I read the posts mentioned above. Maybe it is normal but if there are any specific TSB's I'd like to know.
danog
The only thing I can think of that would rub when turning the wheel would be the pin that resets the turn signal. If it extends a little to far out, it will rub and may cause a squeaking sound. However, if this is the case, you would find small plastic shavings that's created when it rubs. No TSB's that I've seen on this.
nice job
I once had a VW Golf & the horn would blare when I turned the steering wheel. Turned out to be one long rogue key on my keychain that would slip under the wheel above the plastic column shroud and make contact with the horn wire. I don't carry extra keys on my ignition key ring anymore.
This was the site http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/2000/bulletins.html If anyone knows of another site for FREE full TSB listing let us all know, All Data wants $$$ for the full listing but does give out the list for free.
Ray T.
Its not the shaft its like on top of the steering wheel. Kinda sounds like a piece of rubber and plastic rubbing together
Wow i havent worn my winter jacket at all this yr. It has gotten cold (wind chill below zero). Lately temps have been 30-40 in the morning and it hasnt made any noise. 2 days but once it dips below 32 itll be back to making noise. It didnt make any noise last yr
how come you never post on tim's site anymore?
Most of the time when i am posting i am at school or my gf's so i dont have the link handy. I just type in the addresses and cant remember his