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Also I gave a link way back to photos, one that shows the front hub and caliper dissasembled on my
99 2wd. www.picturetrail.com tp_photos it also shows views of the front door panel removed.
Come on down pal.....or over...or up.....
Good Luck on this one now!
......although the big shed to cover big tools was......well........ahh skip it...
LOL
Enjoy
- Tim
was just kidding about the Coors, Cowboy......
Took it in got the fender flare screw put in.
White specs in tailgate gone
scratch in ext cab door is 100% gone.
He washed down (its snowing) the whole side and wax from the tail light to the ext cab door even though i only said do the ext cab door
Looks great even better than before it was hit
100% happy now
So how much snow did you get? Been a lousy year hear, only out once on the sled, and no snow in a month. Wait, its supposed to hit 50 today, with rain. Some winter
5 more coming today
its a thick snow too
had the truck in 4wd all morning
Even though the pads last 80-100K should you go ahead and replace them anyway when you are having the bearings serviced? Seems like the only additional charge would be the cost of the pads.
The reason I am thinking about this is - truck is close to 30K plus I went through some high water yesterday. Street was flooded - several cars stuck in the water so had to "go deep" to get around them. From the looks of the truck ahead of me water was almost to the top of the tires. I felt bad for the guy in the Ford Focus - even though we were moving slow the wake from the passing trucks was going over his hood.
Ray T
No loose screws lying around eh?
It was one of those plastic push in screws
He had a box of all kinds of sizes i couldnt believe it
they are those plastic push tabs.
The bodyshop has em cause when you remove them from a vehicle most of the time they cant be reused (bent broke or stripped)
Are you gonna post some new pics with your 'new look' Silverado?
Jim
So until i wash it (next few wks) i wont have any new pics sorry
So the answer to the question is, yes.
Now allow me to offer some additional thoughts on the matter. If you look at many time-aged pads, the surface appears to have heat checks or cracks near or running from the edges of the pads. This is not good and tests that I have seen indicate a minor deterioration of performance. There is also something to consider regarding the pad's ability to control heat from braking. ie. thinner pad over long life will not be able to absorb and disipate heat to the same degree as a thicker pad. This is given that the weight of the vehicle and driving habits remain unchanged. Also there is another thing to consider, and that is flexing of the thinner plate. Over a long period of time I have noticed the plates can bend and the pad thickness, due to wear, becomes uneven. This may also contribute to diminished performance.
Though it may seem economically unsound to change out brake pads before they are at minimum specs(2/32 above plate or rivit head - may vary for some state inspection programs), I find that the performance in the last few /32 of pad life isn't as good as the first through the middle.
Maybe a better criteria is when you change tires out, change brake pads... tires may get 36 to 40k... something to think about.
One other thing, the front bearings on our trucks are sealed and do not appear to require repacking. This is both 2 and 4 wd.
Hope this helps you xyz71 and all
matthew
I normally replace shocks when I get new tires so maybe - tires, shocks and brakes at 40K
This info is as near as I am able to determine by looking at the OEM 4 volume service manual set.
Ryan, that ain't snow, that's a "dusting" hahahahaha!
matthew
- Tim
I look forward to your pics.. when the snow stops!!!!
Been together for 1 yr 8 months (WOAH!)
its about 15 degees. Snow all over the ground
Next weekend is supposed to be 50's
hopefully next wk itll be nice. Put in an order for zaino and i plan on waxing my truck
Duel 502's...1100HP....85MPH.
whoohooo!
"....and that's the last we ever saw of Tim...."
LOL
- Tim
All that was found were the 2 skis and his legs attached in em
haha
Thats one bad [non-permissible content removed] boat man
Actually was talking to the Chief and looks like we may put one of our Harbormaster boats back in the water this week...ah yes, and I get to use the 4wd Hi at the launch ramp...hehe
matthew
"Get In...Sit Down.....Shut Up...Hold On..."
40 on the water is cranking.......so at 85 you 'da man!
LOL
55 is a good cruise speed.....
The original 454's weren't enough for him....I said "are you nuts?"........502's are so nice though......'course at the price of a base Ado....how can ya not like them!
- Tim
But I understand....
been 20's here....my kinda Biz weather!
- Tim
Windchill is alot less
Lots of snow today ! My hard workin' Chevy
out plowing the white stuff !........Geo
This is on a 2001, 1500 Silverado.
This kit provides new cams that allow you to turn the torsion bars up higher than will the stock adjusters. I cranked them until I could put a level on the side of my bed rail and have it be LEVEL. To accomplish this, the torsion bar adjusters are almost maxed out with the new kit installed. They are cranked.
Then, I put BFG TA/KO P285/75/R16's all the way around, and bingo, it isn't all low and slanted anymore!!! When are those GM engineers going to learn?? It actually looks more like the 2500 does when they crank up the torsion bars on those.
Anyway, the trade-off is the ride quality. Hill Off Road website has a great set of information about this lift. They do say to beware of a slight change in ride quality. However, I don't think they intend for you to actually LEVEL the truck. They only intend for you to make it look less weak. It is a significant difference. I feel like I'm on a roller coaster now. If you get this lift, keep in mind the ride quality will go down if you try to actually LEVEL the truck.
Anyway, for $150 + $90 for the install, I can't complain. If you do this, be sure to have it aligned somewhere that is used to aligning trucks that have been lifted. This lifted it enough that the stock specifications for alignment cannot all be in spec. You have to have a guy that know which are to be in spec, and where the others can go from there to provide correct alignment and tire wear.
I'm going to drive it for a few weeks, then I may turn it down a bit and realign it if it keeps driving me crazy..... I talked to skyjackers and they may have something in the fall (I just couldn't wait anymore though) that will level the front end and keep the ride quality. If so, I'll change then. Just don't want to go the full 4" on the lift - there are just too many cons to this for me.
I'll try to put some pics up tomorrow....
Take care.
So far I've had the following done under warranty:
1. Replaced the steering 1/2 shaft, this really made a difference.
2. Had the throttle body fixed for the sticking throttle, that got rid of the "whiplash" effect.
3. Installed rear leaf spring isolators which cut down on most of the noise coming from the back end.
4. Had the dealer fix the crack in the outside body lower door jamb seam, just below the aft end of the driver's door.
5. Had the dealer fix a metal to metal contact in the pick-up bed sheet metal, this helped quiet things down.
6. Had the engine/fuel system and electronics warranty extended to 5 years/60K miles because of the cold start knock. I tried for the 5year/100K mile warranty but didn't get it. Would rather have the knock fixed, but no luck.
7. Trans feels like it starts in OD once in a blue moon; hasn't done this since the 30K trans/axle fluid changes.
Any more items I should have looked at during the last oil change within the warranty period?
Thanks!
...and have a 6.0 installed!
hehe
- Tim
Picked up 8 new NGK TR55ix spark plugs last night, they are the new iridium ones NGK just released for our trucks.
Comparing them dimensionally, they have the same reach,.... except they project 0.060" less into the combustion chamber than the OEM ones (NGK PZTR5A-15), which might explain why they could reduce ping under load.
I don't have a shop manual, so anybody out there with a manual, what is the torque spec for installing these plugs into my aluminum headed 6.0L. The plugs have a tapered seat, and no gasket/crush washer.
BTW, here in N. AZ. at 7,000' elevation, we are waaaaayyyy below normal snow for the season, and the only place I've snowmobiled is a week in Montana over Christmas. The dirtbiking has been great though.
Since I haven't been around, anything new I should be looking out for?
Today i get the job (gotta get a drug test 1st)
Almost 2 months to the day with no job and im gonna be employeed again
MORE TRUCK MODS TO COME
you can even finance them nowadays.......{:o)
Also might have some corian work for you to do also
Try checking a dealer. They should offer the info over the phone without any hassel.
Good luck,
Dano