Back in Dec '99 when I was going along the order form for my 2000 Z71 I reasoned away the towing package as saving a few bucks. I didn't have anything to tow and didn't forsee it. Well, my infinite wisdom has bit me in the rear and now it would be handy to have AND I'd like to have the original equipment. I have two question areas for all/anyone:
1. How expensive do you think it would be to purchase all the necessary parts from the dealer? Think it'll be easy to find a wrecked truck?
2. Exactly what all is needed? Is it as simple as transfering the parts from a wrecked truck?
If anyone has the time, or is so inclined, I would like to have some pictures of how the hitch mounts up, the wiring for the trailer, the transmission cooler and lines. I know this part is probably a pain so don't anybody sweat it.
Oby: Sometime in March, at this site, I remember a discussion involving you and others relating to Chevrolet's offer of an extended warranty to compensate (or partially compensate) for problems related to their Silverado trucks. I have posted before that the battery on my 2000 Silverado has been drained for no apparent reason. Only recently, after 9 visits and 16 days out of service during the past six months, has the dealer said that they have the problem fixed. (The cluster gage was the gremlin, or so they say.)
Based on the truck's current mileage (21,000) and delivery date (Feb. 2000),Chevrolet has offered their Master Guard Protection Plan for an additional 29,000 miles or 34 months. If you are not familiar with the Plan, its coverage is rather extensive, and the retail price is $1345. Under the offer, it is not transferable to another owner.
I think the dealer busted their butts to find the problem, but I am pissed at Chevrolet because they never offered field engineering assistance, which the dealer requested, and because they were so long in coming forth with any compensation offer. However,I do not want to shoot myself in the foot. The lemon law in Tennessee has gone by the board because of the time frame and when the first occurence took place, and the UCC might not be much better according to an attorney who specializes in this area. Finally, to my question: I am debating going to arbitration and telling them to stuff their extended warranty. (I probably will not keep the truck much longer.)Do you and/or others have any advise for me relative the arbitration procedure, or should I just shut up and take the warranty?
Thanks for the answers. I appreciate it. I think I am gonna look at getting those Bilsteins. If I remember right you got them from www.offroadwarehouse.com right?
Also, I noticed on there site there are a few different models. Did you just get the OEM replacements or one of the other models. Sorry for all the questions.
Also, Jon got back to me about the emblems, thanks for thinking of me....
My opinion would depend on how the truck is running today. If all is well and your problems taken cared of, I'd seriously give consideration to keeping the truck with the extended warranty ($1345 value for personal aggravation).
Another thing to consider is what kind of financial hit will you take for selling off the truck? Bottom line, it comes down to personal satisfaction vs. economic sense. Depending on your situation one might have more value than the other.
Wasn't offroadwarehouse the place where you waited three weeks for your shocks? or was it a month? Is that place a virtual warehouse? Just wondering cause some of these internet warehouses are nonstocking and ship directly from the manufacturers. Course you also have to check their shipping charges depending on where you live cause I seen some insane ones especially from GMPartsDirect.com....
Thanks for your response. I was hoping you would have a magic button that I could push. Chevrolet's offer was 60 months/50,000 miles. That is another gripe, because I have since found that they have offered up to 72/100,000. Of course, I know that they can offer about anything they want, and I assume their initial offer is a negotiating ploy. If I planned to keep the truck, I agree that the warranty, be it 60/50,000 or more, is worth considering. For me, however, three years ownership is about maximum.
It is my understanding that an arbitration board in this area would be composed of automobile dealers. The fox in the hen house, maybe?
The big unknown is, even if I win at arbitration, I don't know what the win will consist of. If it is anything less than a new, replacement vehicle, I would be wasting my time.
Did I read in an earlier post that GM farms the Customer Service Group (who answer the 800 number) out to a subcontractor? Or did I just imagine that?
Arbitration board comprised of auto dealers? Yuck!! That's unbelievable....
It's true that the people answering the 800 number are not employed by GM rather subcontracted employees. I would like to think that they have some amount of influence over the dealer, even if it might only be submitting reports on their responses. Given enough complaints regarding a certain dealer warranting GM's attention. However, on second thought, don't think so.
kg11: I was speaking from memory, and it has been a few weeks since I met with an attorney about this. I think, however, that I am correct about who hears the proceedings here, but I will verify that next week. I have spent a lot of time in CA, and, while it has its share of fruits and nuts, those of us in TN are light years behind in some ways. I'll take TN as it is, but I would like to get the fox out of the hen house.
Oby: I thought that I remembered the subcontractor arrangement. Actually, this dealer is not really the culprit, because they tried hard early on to find the problem. I am just frustrated at Chevrolet, and I cannot find anyone to get my hands on. I do have the name of the regional manager for their service (Atlanta based, I think), but they all do a good job of hiding from their customers. Who knows, I might do the same in their shoes.
How does the truck run now?Did they in fact fix the electrical problem?If so you probably won't get much if anything from arbitration or court unless there's something else wrong with the truck.Unfortunatly the warranty does'nt compensate for value/use already lost but that's something that costs more to recover than it's worth.
kg11: I was speaking from memory, and it has been a few weeks since I met with an attorney about this. I think, however, that I am correct about who hears the proceedings here, but I will verify that next week. I have spent a lot of time in CA, and, while it has its share of fruits and nuts, those of us in TN are light years behind in some ways. I'll take TN as it is, but I would like to get the fox out of the hen house.
Oby: I thought that I remembered the subcontractor arrangement. Actually, this dealer is not really the culprit, because they tried hard early on to find the problem. I am just frustrated at Chevrolet, and I cannot find anyone to get my hands on. I do have the name of the regional manager for their service (Atlanta based, I think), but they all do a good job of hiding from their customers. Who knows, I might do the same in their shoes.
I bought mine from shockwarehouse.com. They cost a little more than offroadwarehouse, but I got mine in two days. They charged a little less for shipping than offroad had quoted me but still ended up paying more at shockwarehouse. I guess I decided to go with them cause I had also picked up my edelbrocks through them.
I waited a few wks for my shocks yes BECAUSE the fronts were backordered everywhere. Even autozone would have been a month wait. Now they should be available. Offroadwarehouse is an accessory store they have 3 locations in california. They have all kinds of stuff. I bought a tow strap and warn receiver shackle from them which only took a few days to get
I agree that, if the electrical problem is fixed, arbitration is not the route to take. My problem is that I don't have much confidence in the latest "fix" (the instrument cluster replacement) because the two previous "fixes" lasted only until the battery was again drained. (My frustration went up a few notches when they replaced the cluster with the wrong one. They installed the correct one, and now I have the first dash rattle in the truck. Oh well, life goes on.) The only real test is to keep driving the truck and hope that it is fixed or find that it really is not. Unfortunately, my lack of confidence in the latest fix is not sufficient grounds to win at arbitration.
Not later than Tuesday, I am going to quit beating this dead horse and decide to take the extended warranty or tell them to stuff it and go to arbitration.
If "this latest fix" don't do it they owe you a new truck(IMO)I lost confidence in my 2500HD after they replaced the trans twice ,even though they said it wes a minor programming problem and they only took the trannys for research(new model Allison).I filed a buyback claim with BBB but was persuaded that I didn't really have much chance of winning.Oh well, I love the truck inspite of it's cold start knock ,adn with 13k on this trans and no more problems I guess I'll keep it for now.
So you are buying them off him? Thats cool Its pretty sad he got rid of his truck (pretty bad accident he got t boned at 50 mph). He put alot of time into his truck. A few wks prior to the accident he spent a weekend and put on a body lift.
All of the new trucks have the passkey system. Rather than put a chip in the key like they used to do. The keys actually have a resistance value that is coded to the ignition. I had to ask about that one a couple of years ago.
The chip in the key before WAS the resistor. I don't see where the new one does. Where does the resistance value of the new key (that is "coded to the ignition") come from? Metallurgy?
Maybe it isn't worth answering. Security secrets aren't revealed for nothing. But bottom line if I understand what you're saying, is that a key maker can't just copy the key and have it work?
"The chip in the key before WAS the resistor. I don't see where the new one does. Where does the resistance value of the new key (that is "coded to the ignition") come from? Metallurgy?
Maybe it isn't worth answering. Security secrets aren't revealed for nothing. But bottom line if I understand what you're saying, is that a key maker can't just copy the key and have it work? "
A key from Ace Hrdwr or Home Depot works fine. I have duplicates for '00 Silverado and '01 Suburban.
What is the latest and greatest wax on the market for small scratches. Yes, my brother n law dragged a gas can out of my truck this weekend. Any suggestions? About wax that is, already took care of the brother n law.
Even Meguires cleaner paste wax does wonders for scratches........and I'd perhaps even start there depending on what it is?.........higher end waxes are great for cars already in great shape....
I use Malms for higher end paint jobs (Olds), on the truck most of the time...
For Pure looks I use 3M Hand Glaze on Black, and Meguires Yellow #26? Wax or Malms if I want protection. But the Pure Glaze looks best.....but not for an outdoor car...as it has little protection. Malms Ultra Fine Polish works well too.....depending on the shape it's in first.
In actuality, the higher end waxes work best on dark colors, and are really overkill for any big 3 paint job IMHO.............(unless a dark color)
I keep a range of products for different uses.............now to actually wash the truck first.....LOL.....I think it's black?
Good Luck on this one now.
- Tim
....it all comes down to what you like......who has a better burger?....Mickey's?....Burger King?......Big Boy?.....or the local Pub?
Some swear by that flat burger mashed into paper at Burger King.......but I swear by The Shamrock's 7 Oz. Burger loaded with the toppings.......but neither of us are wrong.
You can try the search that you'll find in the left sidebar on this screen, although that's basically only going to search the topic titles. An improved search is in the works ( I know... the check's in the mail) but the for moment we have to live with what we have.
On the other hand, we have a lot of folks who have been around the site for a loooong time and if you ask, someone might be able point you towards what you're looking for!
At the dealer's the other day and noticed on some used Silverados(not sure the year) under the ash tray & accessory outlets a unit folded out to a cup holder. I seem to have the same compartment on my 02 Rado but it doesn't fold out. Anyway of getting my converted? Then I would like to remove the unit attached to the seat. Any ideas out there?
well tomorrow I am leaving and wont be back till sunday.
Tomorrow going to southern indiana to turkey run to do some hiking. Then coming home packing up the fishing gear/tools/boat motor and heading to eastern indiana to our summer cottage on the lake. Gonna do some fishing and relaxing. Hopefully it doesnt rain and itll be an awesome weekend.
I bought a compact flash card for my camera and another set of rechargible batteries. Pics to come late sunday or late monday (gotta work monday )
Everyone have a great weekend and also dont forget mothers day (my moms present is me my dad and brother leaving the house hehe)
Oh yea ill post some milage numbers with the new tonneau cover since i have yet to have any highway miles with it
I have not been following the discussion, since I haven't checked in here for a long time. But the electrical problem caught my eye.
My '99 was having a problem with the battery draining. After about a week, it would be too weak to start the truck. One dealer tried to fix it by changing a body control module, which didn't do the trick. A second, much better dealer, traced the problem to -- of all things -- the LoJack system.
What impressed me the most was that the second dealer didn't even know I had one, yet they found it and it was indeed the problem.
(I am not writing this to state that the previously posted problem is related in any way, just to state that some dealers try hard and do help out).
One major daily newspaper is looking for folks who drive 2002 or 2003 yellow or orange cars, and another major daily newspaper is looking for folks who successfully or unsuccessfully attempted to negotiate the purchase prices of their vehicles at the end of their lease terms. If you care to share your stories on either or both of these topics, please send an e-mail containing a short summary of your experience and your contact information to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, May 14.
Thanks much,
Jeannine Fallon PR Director Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Hello, I just bought a chevy 2500HD long bed, 8.1L, crew cab. I lost the directions to my Kelsey brake controller. It has 4 thick wires...red, white, blue, and black. Would anyone know where to connect these wires to the included brake wiring harness, which has a thick red and blue, and thin light blue, black, and brown wires. I am a novice at this kind of thing. Thanks for any help
Well took off friday. Went hiking then drove home and went fishing. Got down there and the grass was up to the wheel well of my dads S-10 (pics soon). Cut most of the grass (was out there till 10pm friday night). Threw back a couple cold ones woke up the next morning and finished cutting grass. Then the rain came. Stuck inside all day. No fishing The channel where we take our boat out to the lake actually started to overflow
It rained and raind and rained. Well this morning at 5am I got a voice mail from my mom. Our house was starting to take on water (seeping in the basement). Told my dad and we packed up and left about 7:30am. Well my truck was parked in the backyard. It had sunk slightly into the grass. Had to use 4wd to get out. Then came the exciting part. My dad had to climb a slight hill out. Bald tires and a 2wd S-10. Wasnt happening. I told him to back it out (weight in the rear). Well he sat there digging a hole. Mudd eveywhere. I said stop backed my truck up hooked in the warn shackle and hooked the tow strap up to his rear bumper (Only thing to hook it to it was to muddy to climb under and wrap around the axle.) I had my gf watch to hollar if the bumper was gonna fly off. Well i gave it a tug hit the gas and got it right out. Man i love the power of the 5.3 i could barely feel him behind me. I didnt get any pics cause it was pouring and i didnt wanna dig out my camera.
Should be a fun day. The lake by my house here is starting to overflow which isnt good.
Well i ont be around much today gotta go vaccum up water
Comments
No pass-key theft deterrent chip in the ignition key either, that I can tell. Is there anything to keep this mutha from being stolen???
ROTFLMAO
That was funny!
-Mark
1. How expensive do you think it would be to purchase all the necessary parts from the dealer? Think it'll be easy to find a wrecked truck?
2. Exactly what all is needed? Is it as simple as transfering the parts from a wrecked truck?
If anyone has the time, or is so inclined, I would like to have some pictures of how the hitch mounts up, the wiring for the trailer, the transmission cooler and lines. I know this part is probably a pain so don't anybody sweat it.
Thanks in advance.
Rob
has been drained for no apparent reason. Only recently, after 9 visits and 16 days out of service during the past six months, has the dealer said that they have the problem fixed. (The cluster gage was the gremlin, or so they say.)
Based on the truck's current mileage (21,000) and delivery date (Feb. 2000),Chevrolet has offered their Master Guard Protection Plan for an additional 29,000 miles or 34 months. If you are not familiar with the Plan, its coverage is rather extensive, and the retail price is $1345. Under the offer, it is not transferable to another owner.
I think the dealer busted their butts to find the problem, but I am pissed at Chevrolet because they never offered field engineering assistance, which the dealer requested, and because they were so long in coming forth with any compensation offer. However,I do not want to shoot myself in the foot. The lemon law in Tennessee has gone by the board because of the time frame and when the first occurence took place, and the UCC might not be much better according to an attorney who specializes in this area. Finally, to my question: I am debating going to arbitration and telling them to stuff their extended warranty. (I probably will not keep the truck much longer.)Do you and/or others have any advise for me relative the arbitration procedure, or should I just shut up and take the warranty?
Thanks, and sorry for the long post.
Also, I noticed on there site there are a few different models. Did you just get the OEM replacements or one of the other models. Sorry for all the questions.
Also, Jon got back to me about the emblems, thanks for thinking of me....
My opinion would depend on how the truck is running today. If all is well and your problems taken cared of, I'd seriously give consideration to keeping the truck with the extended warranty ($1345 value for personal aggravation).
Another thing to consider is what kind of financial hit will you take for selling off the truck? Bottom line, it comes down to personal satisfaction vs. economic sense. Depending on your situation one might have more value than the other.
It is my understanding that an arbitration board in this area would be composed of automobile dealers. The fox in the hen house, maybe?
The big unknown is, even if I win at arbitration, I don't know what the win will consist of. If it is anything less than a new, replacement vehicle, I would be wasting my time.
Did I read in an earlier post that GM farms the Customer Service Group (who answer the 800 number) out to a subcontractor? Or did I just imagine that?
It's true that the people answering the 800 number are not employed by GM rather subcontracted employees. I would like to think that they have some amount of influence over the dealer, even if it might only be submitting reports on their responses. Given enough complaints regarding a certain dealer warranting GM's attention. However, on second thought, don't think so.
kip
Oby: I thought that I remembered the subcontractor arrangement. Actually, this dealer is not really the culprit, because they tried hard early on to find the problem. I am just frustrated at Chevrolet, and I cannot find anyone to get my hands on. I do have the name of the regional manager for their service (Atlanta based, I think), but they all do a good job of hiding from their customers. Who knows, I might do the same in their shoes.
Thanks to both of you for your interest.
kip
Oby: I thought that I remembered the subcontractor arrangement. Actually, this dealer is not really the culprit, because they tried hard early on to find the problem. I am just frustrated at Chevrolet, and I cannot find anyone to get my hands on. I do have the name of the regional manager for their service (Atlanta based, I think), but they all do a good job of hiding from their customers. Who knows, I might do the same in their shoes.
Thanks to both of you for your interest.
Ryan
I never checked with them since they had higher prices and i didnt need the shocks. I wanted them but yes but i could wait i am a patient guy
- Tim
Not later than Tuesday, I am going to quit beating this dead horse and decide to take the extended warranty or tell them to stuff it and go to arbitration.
Thanks again for your input.
kip
Geesh.. the weekends almost over already! Guess I'll have to kick back and drown my sorrows in another beer!
Have a good one!
Jag
Thanks again for telling me about the emblems. I am getting them sent to me soon!
Jag
Rather than put a chip in the key like they used to
do. The keys actually have a resistance value that
is coded to the ignition.
I had to ask about that one a couple of years ago.
Walter (Gator)
Maybe it isn't worth answering. Security secrets aren't revealed for nothing. But bottom line if I understand what you're saying, is that a key maker can't just copy the key and have it work?
Maybe it isn't worth answering. Security secrets aren't revealed for nothing. But bottom line if I understand what you're saying, is that a key maker can't just copy the key and have it work? "
A key from Ace Hrdwr or Home Depot works fine. I have duplicates for '00 Silverado and '01 Suburban.
Even Meguires cleaner paste wax does wonders for scratches........and I'd perhaps even start there depending on what it is?.........higher end waxes are great for cars already in great shape....
I use Malms for higher end paint jobs (Olds), on the truck most of the time...
For Pure looks I use 3M Hand Glaze on Black, and Meguires Yellow #26? Wax or Malms if I want protection. But the Pure Glaze looks best.....but not for an outdoor car...as it has little protection. Malms Ultra Fine Polish works well too.....depending on the shape it's in first.
In actuality, the higher end waxes work best on dark colors, and are really overkill for any big 3 paint job IMHO.............(unless a dark color)
I keep a range of products for different uses.............now to actually wash the truck first.....LOL.....I think it's black?
Good Luck on this one now.
- Tim
....it all comes down to what you like......who has a better burger?....Mickey's?....Burger King?......Big Boy?.....or the local Pub?
Some swear by that flat burger mashed into paper at Burger King.......but I swear by The Shamrock's 7 Oz. Burger loaded with the toppings.......but neither of us are wrong.
...speaking of.....hmmmm
headed off to the Sham in a few........N-Joy!
At www.offroadwarehouse.com there are four types listed for are trucks. 5100, 7100, 9100, and OEM replacement series Bilsteins.
Which did you choose?
Make: CHEVROLET
Type: Pickup 4WD (Standard Suspension)
Model: Silverado K1500
Year: 99-01
Setting: HD
Front: BE5-2904
Rear: BE5-2905
On the other hand, we have a lot of folks who have been around the site for a loooong time and if you ask, someone might be able point you towards what you're looking for!
PF Flyer
Host
Pickups & News & Views Message Boards
Anyway of getting my converted? Then I would like to remove the unit attached to the seat.
Any ideas out there?
Tomorrow going to southern indiana to turkey run to do some hiking. Then coming home packing up the fishing gear/tools/boat motor and heading to eastern indiana to our summer cottage on the lake. Gonna do some fishing and relaxing. Hopefully it doesnt rain and itll be an awesome weekend.
I bought a compact flash card for my camera and another set of rechargible batteries. Pics to come late sunday or late monday (gotta work monday )
Everyone have a great weekend and also dont forget mothers day (my moms present is me my dad and brother leaving the house hehe)
Oh yea ill post some milage numbers with the new tonneau cover since i have yet to have any highway miles with it
I have read here from a few who have
changed theirs over....Chime in fellas !
My '99 was having a problem with the battery draining. After about a week, it would be too weak to start the truck. One dealer tried to fix it by changing a body control module, which didn't do the trick. A second, much better dealer, traced the problem to -- of all things -- the LoJack system.
What impressed me the most was that the second dealer didn't even know I had one, yet they found it and it was indeed the problem.
(I am not writing this to state that the previously posted problem is related in any way, just to state that some dealers try hard and do help out).
Richard
- Tim
Thanks much,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I just bought a chevy 2500HD long bed, 8.1L, crew cab. I lost the directions to my Kelsey brake controller. It has 4 thick wires...red, white, blue, and black. Would anyone know where to connect these wires to the included brake wiring harness, which has a thick red and blue, and thin light blue, black, and brown wires. I am a novice at this kind of thing. Thanks for any help
Red : Brake controller Battery + Feed
DK BLUE: Brake controller Switched output
LT Blue: Vehicle stop lamp switch to controller input
Black: Controller ground
Brown: Controller Illumination control
The harness I have goes into the mid-buss electrical center under your left foot(there is a plug/socket ID chart on the inside of the cover).
Hope this helps
matthew
Brake controller works great.
It rained and raind and rained. Well this morning at 5am I got a voice mail from my mom. Our house was starting to take on water (seeping in the basement). Told my dad and we packed up and left about 7:30am. Well my truck was parked in the backyard. It had sunk slightly into the grass. Had to use 4wd to get out. Then came the exciting part. My dad had to climb a slight hill out. Bald tires and a 2wd S-10. Wasnt happening. I told him to back it out (weight in the rear). Well he sat there digging a hole. Mudd eveywhere. I said stop backed my truck up hooked in the warn shackle and hooked the tow strap up to his rear bumper (Only thing to hook it to it was to muddy to climb under and wrap around the axle.) I had my gf watch to hollar if the bumper was gonna fly off. Well i gave it a tug hit the gas and got it right out. Man i love the power of the 5.3 i could barely feel him behind me. I didnt get any pics cause it was pouring and i didnt wanna dig out my camera.
Should be a fun day. The lake by my house here is starting to overflow which isnt good.
Well i ont be around much today gotta go vaccum up water
To date
988.8 Hours
25895 Miles
26.2 MPH avg.
I've now got the problem with my 00 rado 1500, and am getting real close to my 36000 mile warranty expiration. The dealer isn't sure of the source.
Hey Tim, still got that Hurst Olds?
Thanks!
Clay
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