Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

hunter98

I really was suprised that it is that low. I drive once or twice a week 150 miles at 75, 50 miles stop and go up to 60. When at home I live three miles from town, run around town and such. I do get some slower speed towing and such on the farm and piddleing around and stuff. Towing 28% tanks, empty wagons, grain heads and such. Let it run when hooking up stuff or would have to restart within ten minutes. I average like 29.95 miles/ hour on the truck. Last truck was like 36 I think, and I rarely went on the interstate. (Drove 30 miles daily stop and go up to 65.) I drive about 17-20k miles a year.
With my low avg speed, a diesel would really Shine, since they use very little fuel at low rpms or idleing. I think Duramax next.

Hunter

obyone

There was a survey done by an independent consumer regarding oil filters. I'm sure most of us have been to that website. Bottom line, the manufacturer that everybody now "dreads" knew that there was no way that anyone could prove that engine failure could be attributed to an oil filter and for that reason, came to market with a "substandard" oil filter that would go into bypass as early as 300 miles.

silveradobob

I've answered your muffler question in the other topic. If you think this is bad, you should have been here last year when there was a war with f150rules. Had the house rockin' and a rollin'. Provided cheap entertainment too. Course nothing like that would happen now since the have the [non-permissible content removed] in charge...LOL!!

bco

what happened? well, if you ask me, things started going downhill (rapidly) sometime between 6:08 and 6:41 AM (edmunds time) on feb 8th. a question was asked, an answer was posted and that answer was bashed. it's all gone downhill since then. hmmm, prior to that, things here were pretty peaceful. so...if the person that made that post (which has been deleted for some reason) was to not post anymore, it would make sense that the "war zone", as some have called it, would come to an abrupt end. or, when that person was expressing his opinion, he would state and justify as such, or back it up with cited fact for the rest of the participants to chew on and discuss. oh, that person should most likely not imply those that disagree with him are idiots too. that helps.

sorry to get off topic for a moment, but do you guys think i'd be good at teaching conflict resolution?

bco

volkej

Can you lift the hood of a Silverado and tell whether the engine is a 4.8 or 5.3?
With GMs penchant for substitutions if something is out of stock, how do you know whether the 5.3 you ordered is really a 5.3?

mottsz71

I have a Silverado LT on order. I gave the dealer my deposit on 10/17/00. The order was accepted by Chevy on 1/17/01. They still have not given me a TPW yet. The dealer says the hold up is the pro-tec option. Is it to late to cancel the order and what are my chances on getting my deposit back?
The GMC dealer had a nice SLT (white/pewter)down the road. I think I am going to buy that one.

mledtje

Jim,

No, I can't tell from under the hood, but I can tell from the glovebox door, or your windowsticker, or your VIN.

I don't think you will find substitutions like you used to anymore. And if there is a substitution, it will be listed as if you ordered it. Otherwise, they would be in the position of having to buy back vehicles in which they put the wrong engine. Plus, they don't have a stock of engines to just pull one from. Most assemblies, like engines/trans/final drives, are delivered just as they are needed, and are installed into the vehicle they were built for.

When you (or the dealer) orders a truck, the system plans for all the parts. If something is not available (the final drive ratio you wanted), then you don't get a build date. When all the parts are available and the stars lined up, then the system spits out a number that you can use to track your truck.

Don't worry about getting the wrong engine. Worry about getting the wrong dealer.

Mike L

obyone

delivered. Getting a refund on the deposit from a sleazy dealer might be another story. But, you are never obligated to take delivery and they should return your deposit. Might take an act of God in some cases when it comes to getting your deposit back.

bco-

Teaching conflict resolution....ROTFLMFAO!!. Oops, did that answer your question? LOL!!

obyone

There was only one post made by, well, you know who. For a moment there, I was hoping for a response to my question also. Ales, it was not to be. Perhaps if we posted it in the Road.... can't remember that name... some kind of diner....Hmm..wonder why I can't remember the name of that topic.

Anyway, back to topic. There had been some discussion whether removing the stereo head unit would affect the security system of the truck. I don't think so other than the obvious fact that GM can no longer protect your new after market stereo. Not like they they a bang up job in the first place on the stock unit.

Pickett

vince4

I agree with the suggestion earlier: use the red lead from the trailer wiring. It's always hot and is in the area you need. But you must have the factory tow package to even have that wire. I'm pretty sure the basic truck comes with a 4-wire lead which doesn't include a power wire.

Pickett

I just got a new 01 TL 4x4 ex. cab with 5.3. On the road it has developed a strange noise that seems to come around the defrost vent slots on top of the dash. The best I can describe the noise is that it sounds like a loose plastic tarp flapping in the breeze. It only comes on above 65 or 70mph. Can anyone share an idea. I haven't been back to the dealer yet. Limited faith there. I think it is best to go in with an idea to give them about a problem. Thanks for any help. Aside from little things like a steering wheel squeak when it is real cold (like a rubber groment squeak) this $34K truck is great.

tomh12

I have learned from reading this board that your problem is most likely flapping of the rubber seal around your windshield. Some have solved it using adhesive, others by changing bug deflectors. Let me think, did I learn this from Titus1? No, I learned it from members who are here for other than their own agenda.
Tom

mgdvhman

...the windshield is what came to mind for me too

...and no..I didn't learn from Titus either come to think of it..

- Tim

bco

titus,
"would you please answer the question i had a while back about your pinging problem, or have you forgotten that discussion?"
i thought we had "put that behind us"? what part of "i've never had a pinging problem" do you not understand? now then, any chance we can get a source on the "anything but a delco filter will void your warranty" statement - or did you just make that up? maybe had a hook set in your mouth by your dealer's sevice center? "we got a live one here jimmy...tell him he's gotta get his tires rotated and balanced and alignment done here too, or it'll void his warranty...hehehe!!!"

pickett -
the sound you described is exactly what tom stated it is. simple fix. go to walmart or some similar place and get a tube of silicone. put a bead down each side of your windshield, between the rubber gasket and the glass. allow to set for an hour. don't wash/get wet if at all possible for 24 hours. you'll never hear the noise again...oh yeah, total cost: about $2.50 (and it won't void your warranty either!)

bco

mgdvhman

better get that silicone from the dealer!

- Tim

pocahontas

back on the top 10 list! ;-)

But it's disappointing, and I'm sure not just for me, to see that there's still quite a bit of bickering going on here. If people here cannot stop their bickering and name calling, this discussion will have to be closed, for a day or so, to let everyone cool down.

So I'd like to ask everyone here to please avoid making negative comments about other participants in this forum. This includes name calling, finger pointing, and negative plays on user names. Understand? Regardless of who's right/wrong, or who started what..., at some point we just have to agree to disagree and let bygones be bygones....

In addition, if someone does not want to answer your question, then it time to move onto the next subject. Repeatedly asking someone to respond to a question, when they don't want to, is bordering on participant harassment. And this is a direct violation of our Town Hall agreement.

Let me also say that it takes the better man/woman to just ignore what they think may be an insult..., and just politely respond. Otherwise no response is the next best alternative.

And now for the benefit of those that came here in peace... let's please continue with the subject of the Chevy Silverado. Thanks for your participation. ;-)

PS: This message will be deleted in the next day or so.

Pocahontas
Host
Pickups Message Board

k0hb

With all due respect, we are mostly grown men and ladies around here, and don't need a hall monitor.

~~~
We pass the word around; we ponder how the case is put by different
people, we read the poetry; we meditate over the literature; we play
the music; we change our minds; we reach an understanding. Society
evolves this way, not by shouting each other down, but by the unique
capacity of unique, individual human beings to comprehend each other.
--Lewis Thomas, The Medusa and the Snail (1979)
~~~

cowboyjohn1

I found your last message very interesting. I am kind of a nut about keeping detailed records - in fact sometimes I think to my own personal detriment. I am very interested on how you calculated your average speed. I would like to try that myself. I apparently use my pickups somewhat like you - some highway mileage, some pasture and hay field mileage, and a certain amount of time idleing while you are doing minor things eg: repairing sprinklers, fence, loading hay, etc. I also take one trip to Calif around Christmas which is about 2600 miles round trip, and a couple of trips into Montana and Idaho each year. Under these conditions, my 88 F250 averaged 7.3 miles per gallon over the entire year of 1999. I haven't calculated it yet for 2000 as I haven't started to get heavy into the income tax yet. Would you drop a note on how you calculated your average speed? By the way, with all my vehicles, I usually only put about 10 to 11,000 miles per year, so my mileage is less than yours. If I am going very far, I usually fly, so my vehicles ususally don't get too far except for the mentioned trips. If I am going a long ways into Montana (Red Lodge), Wyoming, Nebraska, etc. I always fly.

I just filled up the Silverado last night for the first time - I don't have the book with me right now, but I think I got 9.37 miles per gallon. 8.1L, 3.73.
Thanks
Cowboyjohn

dustyone

If you read your hour meter (key in off position, depress and hold trip lever, display is in hours of engine run time), simply divide the number of miles from the odometer by the hours on the engine for miles per hour. ; i.e., avgspeed=number of miles divided by number of hours for mph (miles/hour)

erikheiker

Tapping into the trailer wiring harness sounded like a great idea, but when I used my VOM, I couldn't find 12 volts on any pin. I double checked to ensure I had a good ground. No luck. I haven't checked the fuse box yet, but I've never used to the plug yet, so it should be good. But I will double check today. I did receive an e-mail with instructions on how to tap into the cargo light. I may use those instructions, but I think I'd rather tap into the dome light circuit. It's always hot and would still give me the 20 minute protection plan. Not that I've ever forgotten to turn off a light in my older shells. But if I can find a hot lead in the back, it would certainly simplify my wiring job.

sf0383

How does one go about getting extra keys for a 2001 2500HD. I thought I read something about a chip or something in the key that works with the security system?

erikheiker

Any ideas on the best routing and hook-up location for the brake light? The shell wiring terminates in the back, on the left side. Also, which wire is the brake light wire? I don't have a wiring diagram yet.

Thanks,

Erik

erikheiker

You can get extra keys at the dealer or any reputable locksmith. You can also get cheap keys at most discount stores. There is a protective system in place, but it doesn't rely on a resistor in the key like some older GM products.

hunter98

Dusty hit the nail on the head, truck off, push and hold the reset button, a few seconds later the Engine hour meter will show up. Total Miles/Total Hours = Average Speed. Mine is about currently 16000/535 hours=29.9 MPH average.

SF, the GM dealer should stock the keys with the right codes, if they don't they can order them. I have twice now, had three extra keys thrown in on the contract. On my second truck, they grabbed out of the wrong coded keystock, the truck would start and die with each key. They figured it out got the right stock, and all work great. You have to get them at the dealer as far as I know. I think around ten bucks each.

Best of luck

Hunter

obyone

I had extra keys made a home depot and they all work fine. I wonder if Home Depot has those special keys at $2.75 a piece?

hunter98

Dunno either, all I know is what happened on my truck, with three keys out of the wrong stock. It died each time right after starting. Would start and run in between with the origional, the rechecked the stock and made 3 new ones, all worked fine. Maybee your passlock isn't working.

Hunter

bco

walmart must have the smart keys to. as to passlock, as i understand it, the concept is this. if your truck is "hotwired" or started without using a key in the ignition, the fuel pump will not operate and therefore, the engine will only run with what fuel is in it. you have to engage the ignition on the steering column in order to "disable", if you will, the passlock system. i don't think it has anything at all to do with a chip in the key. i know mine doesn't, cuz it runs just fine on the dupe key i got at walmart. mine's a 2000 LS with a tpw of 21 jan 2000...so maybe the newer ones are different???

bco

mgdvhman

.....I see no chip

- Tim

obyone

for the Denali that is...

mgdvhman

this is the Silverado topic....take that to the Denali topic!

You are out of line!...you are out of order...this whole courtroom is out of order!!

- Tim

pocahontas

I just recruited mgdvhman as the community leader here. ;-)

Happy Motoring!

Pocahontas
Host
Pickups Message Board

mgdvhman

where did that come from?

....If I'm the leader....God help us all!

- Tim

titus1

pocahontas is just having fun with you.

erikheiker,
are you going to tap into the rear cargo lamp circuit for power? i agree that the 20 minute shut off feature is nice on these trucks, should something be left on by mistake.
Rick

erikheiker

If I tap into anything, it will be the dome light circuit...it's always hot. That way I won't have to first activate the cargo light if I'm approaching the truck. I can go straight to the back and turn it on.

silveradobob

Saw a pewter-colored Z71 like mine this morning with the stick-on lower body stainless trim...looked pretty sharp ! Anybody had any experience with it ? Hard to put on,maintain,etc. ?

titus1

i see what you mean. i guess it would be more hassle to have to switch 1 light on then have to switch another.
Rick

titus1

on my truck are a pain to maintain. have any of you folks here found and easy way to remove them? seems like i spend as much time detailing this trim as i do the whole truck. would like to remove them, but don't want to ruin anything in the process, you know, like the paint.
Rick

mgdvhman

I know I will miss the Intimidator..

http://www.nascar.com/

...last lap....your son is second...your employee is first....what a screwed up way to go.

Miss ya Dale

- Tim

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

titus1

the crash didn't look to be that bad, as nascar crashes go. Man...this is more than a tragedy, he taught a lot guys just how it was on the track.
our prays go to the Earnhardt family.
Rick

minikin

Tim --
You've been around awhile -- what's the the deal on oil filters? GM and Helms specs PF52's for the 2000 5.3's but I keep seeing repeated references to PF59's. Why; what's the diference? Any help sincerely appreciated.
Also, I know you're happy with your Steeltex's, but the further we get into this year's Colorado high country winter, the happier I am went with the Michelin LTX/AT's; soft ride, super grip @ sub-zero temps, expensive.
-- Don

minikin

Tim --
Just read your post 1490 -- Thanks (?) for the info. Now my question/post 1492 on filters and tires just seems really lame. I'd just finished watching the race on tape and had felt good about what Dale and Dale, Jr did to help Waltrip along. I'm an old part-time, New England modified driver from the late 70's; Bodine/Evans contemporary, who couldn't keep up because I didn't have the equipment, talent, or fire that it takes to really make it; and because senior management just pays too well. I've lived vicariously through Earnhardt especially and his/my generation of racers for 20 years. The Intimidator will be missed? You don't know the half of it guys!!!
-- Don

erikheiker

My 2001 owner's manual specifies PF-59. I could only find a PF-58 at K-Mart, and that is what their book says is for the 5.3. I just went with a Mobil 1 filter. Part number is M1-206. K&N is also a good choice...part number 2006. Of course, you'd only be willing to spend the bucks on these filters if you run Mobil 1 or some other synthetic.

minikin

Heat/melt the adhesive with a hair dryer (or by letting it sit out in the direct, hot sun if you happen to live in some place like Florida. Then just hook your fingernails under the molding and peel it off. Soften and remove the residual adhesive with Goof-Off followed by a quick clean-up wipe with lacquer thinner & then wax. If you want to keep the molding with minimal detail effort and want it all black, you can mask it off and spray it with Dupli-Color bed spray. Available in spray cans. I also did my chrome exterior mirror surfaces, grill egg-crate, and light gray lower bumper valance with this stuff with excellent results. Basically matches the factory plastic parts color and texture and doesn't abrade or chip in sub-zero weather. Just make sure you rough up any shiny surfaces with 180 or 220 grit and clean/wipe with automotive paint grade lacquer thinner. Two coats plus a third light coat for consistent texture works best -- spray at 50 degrees or above.
-- Don

obyone

Where can you find dupli-color bed spray?

mgdvhman

I use a PF59 as does every other person here to my knowledge?

I have never even heard of a PF52??

.but I don't claim to know it all though.....what did the truck come with?

roger350

NASCAR will never be the same without him. Our prayers go out to his family, and the entire NASCAR family, of which he was certainly a leader. I will always be a big fan of his, and will always regret never getting the chance to meet him. But, I can't help but think that he died doing what he loved, at a track that he loved more than any other. This is a huge tragedy, but I know he will be watching Little E from heaven for a long time to come.

obyone

Isn't that the filter for the 5.7?

sf0383

but I thought the PF59 was for the 5.7s. Seems like that's what I used on the '87 and '92 350s

obyone

go here and check it out:

http://www.acdelco.com/parts/oilfilter_cat_set.htm

It shows the PF59 for the 5.3 and PF52 for the 5.7.

bco

...the filter i use on my wife's jimmy's 4.3 L 6. pf59 is all i've ever used on my 5.3 (except one change with the mobil one and 206 is the right designator for that one). not a big nascar fan personally, but living in the south you can't get away from it. was watching the race when a good bud showed up that i hadn't seen in awhile. didn't hear about earnhardt until this morning. sad day indeed. you're right titus, the crash didn't look too bad...not nearly as bad as tony stewart's earlier in the race, but the guys on tv said that earnhardt's was worse because he went from 185 mph to zero in, like, 10 feet. that'll do it i imagine. peace fellas...and happy president's day.

bco