Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

cowboyjohn1

Monday morning, back to work with access to the internet. Thanks to both of you on the comeback to my question. Actually, I don't think I was doing much thinking when I asked it. I am not used to have either Tach or Hobbs meters on highway use vehicles. Sat. morning, over coffee, it dawned on me how to do it. I went right out, checked it out, and found I have been burning up the road at a blistering 21.2 miles per hour. I will try to improve on that as time goes on.
GAS MILEAGE. Did the computations on the 88 F250 for the year 2000 - Average 7.86 miles per gallon. That makes the Silverado at 9.27 mpg almost 18% better - WONDERFUL.
cowboyjohn

punjab

I agree that the molding is nearly impossible to maintain. I had a charcoal gray 1999 z71 and the molding on it is nothing like what I have on my Black 2001 Z71. I am especially dissappointed in the factory fender flares. With all of the texture they have, you can not get mud and dirt out. Any suggestions on what to clean this with (that doesn't require an entire Sunday afternoon). I might give that dupli-color a try.

Having always thought that the young Earnhardt Sr. was a dirty racing [non-permissible content removed], as he matured my respect for him gradually increased. Love him or hate, his involvement in NASCAR will be deeply missed. God Bless #3! (and #8 too)

punjab

Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the standard climate control with the automatic electronic climate contol? The Chevy brochures say that the 2001 LT's are supposed to have it, but the dealers say they are putting them all in the Tahoes and Suburbans. I've got one in my 2001 Tahoe, and it is great ,but with the way that GM screwed up the standard climate control, making it necessary to reset the configuration everytime that you turn the truck off, an electronic would be the perfect answer.

erikheiker

Anybody know which wire I need to tap into on the left brake light circuit? This is for the middle brake light on my new SnugTop and I don't have access to a schematic. Ideally I'd tap into the third light circuit, but I don't imagine that the wiring comes anywhere near the rear. The reason for that is, I've noticed that the center brake light tends to come on a fraction of a second faster than the other two.

Thanks,

Erik

punjab

Most manufacturers will carry an extra wire for just this purpose. It is typically in the left tailight pillar (as wire bundles typically come down the drivers side). If you don't find one that is tagged (or flagged) for this purpose, it won't be difficult to determine which wire is for the brake. With the tailight removed, trace the wires to the bulbs and go from there. Brakes are typically red or pink on chevys (turn signals are yellow, lights are brown, etc...)

mgdvhman

I have seen it only in Crew cabs HD's....not in an ex.cab yet....as I don't think it's an option for ex.cabs

- Tim

angrybob

Hey guys I'm thinking about upgrading to a new Silverado 3500 HD from my '95 Chevy. My biggest complaint is the brakes...it seems like you have to push FOREVER on the brake pedal for anything to happen. I've heard the new trucks have better brakes. Is this true - likes and dislikes if you've got the time because I tow quite often.

Thanks!

sf0383

Just took delivery of a 2500HD 4x4 crew cab and so far the brakes are plenty good. Way better than my wife's 97 Tahoe. This thing has big 4 wheel discs and some kind of system that supposedly evens out the braking, sending more to the rear brakes when needed. All I know is the beast will stop when you push the brakes. It'll go when you mash the gas too but that's another story.

minikin

Oil Filters -- Sorta figured out the PF-52/PF-59 deal. Looks like the PF-52 is a longer canister version of the PF-59. 2000 Helm's service manual spec's the 52 for 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 4x4s. Would hang about flush with the bottom of the pan on my Z-71. Looks like the truck came with a PF-59 though, Tim. Thanks to obyone for the Delco link.
Dupli-Color -- Dupli-Color bed spray is available at Checker Auto Parts and usually at Pep Boys. Black only as far as I know. Don't know who else carries it.
Still upset about Earnhardt!
-- Don

smart99

He died doing something he loved. Any way you look at it, it is an all around bad deal. Dale's talent will never be duplicated, and The Intimidator will never be replaced.

Rest in Peace Brother

tex6

Has Edmunds considered inviting a GM rep to address issues on this board? It would be interesting to have GM directly address the 5.3 engine knock/tick and tell the long-term effect it may/may not have on our engines. GM should be aware that thousands of owners/potential owners visit this site.

I am not talking about a live chat necessarily, but just an official statement from GM. Not many of us are confident in our dealers.

vince4

The dome light is not a good choice. The physical access to the wires is poor and the circuit is not always hot. The 20 minute protection (GM calls it Inadvertent Power) relay feeds the hot side so you couldn't use the shell light after 20 minutes.

You didn't say if you have the tow package with the large round connector but it sounds like you do. There are two potential hot leads on that connector but one is for the trailer brakes and requires an inside cable/connector attachment. The red lead (pin E) is always hot but you have to install the 40A fuse STUD 1 fuse #1 supplied with the trailer brake cable you should have received. The fuse goes in the underhood box (Engine Wiring Harness Junction Block).

The center mounted stop light (CHMSL) is not wired to the rear. You could pick it up at the light itself and run a wire outside or you can get it at the underhood fuse box or the interior Body Wiring Harness Junction Box. Here is a slick way to do it if you don't plan on ever wiring in a trailer brake controller. Connect the cable GM gave you with the tow package to the BWHJB (connector box near brake pedal) and short the light blue and dark blue wires (connector C5 A&C). That will bring the CHMSL signal out to the trailer connector blue wire, pin C. That is an extra wire if you aren't using trailer brakes. Then you can pick up both voltages from the trailer wiring.

If you don't have the 7 pin round tow connector then you need to run some wires from the front.

Good luck.

erikheiker

Thanks for the info. I just went ahead and tapped into the left brake light wire for the CHMSL yesterday. I did check out the red lead on the 7 pin connector, but it was only hot when the ignition was on. I need hot all the time. Are you saying that installing the 40 amp fuse will make the red lead hot all the time? If that's the case, that would be great. I will tow the occasional trailer, so I will keep the electric brake harness intact. If I can't find a hot lead in the back, I'll just run a wire up to the front and tie into the fuse box. There look to be plenty of unused connections there. One should be always hot. The challenge will be to go underneath the fuse box and tie into an unused connection. Thanks again for the info.

Erik

careyace

On my truck I have the 7 pin large trailer connector but some of the paper work for the truck states it is an 8 wire harness,there is a single wire under the rear bumper near the light plug that is wired to the chmsl circuit for chmsl on trailers or truck tops.
I don't know if this would be of any help or not.
Andrew

whitevette01

Had to take the Vette in for a scratch repair
so asked if they were doing any of the recalls
yet. I wanted to leave the truck before so
would have a ride home. Well Service Ad said
had done 3, nothing in mail yet, all could
tell is a sticker on a brake line. It looks
new. I took in Saturday at noon (close at 1pm)
picked up Monday at 9AM when brought other car,
so its quick.

Also do all 2000 Silverado have an interior
air filter, had manual out but have yet to
find.

chevy4me

I looked one over that had just arrived at dealer and am considering buying one to replace my 99 ext cab. It is a 8600 gvw and underneath looks like a 2500 "ld". Price seemed high at a little over $35k. What would be the advantage between this over the 2500hd CC ?

obyone

The air filter replacement procedure is in the Helm's manual as I used it to replace the filter at 10k miles. Don't ask me where cause I didn't bookmark it. Guarantee it's there though.

Chevy4me

Advantage would be in gas mileage. Forget anything else.

mgdvhman

...ummmm....it'll make you happy cuz you got the 1500 name on the side?

....Just kidding..

nothing....get a 2500HD

- Tim

sf0383

you might want to check and see what engine, transmission, rear end options are available for the 1500. I have the 2500HD CC 4x4 with the 6.0,automatic. The only rear end offered for that combo is the 4.1. IF you don't plan on doing any heavy towing or hauling you might get better mileage with say a 3.73 rear. Sounds like the prices are about the same. I got the LS package with some extras for a little over $32k drive out.

obyone

People might think that I work for a living...LOL!!

titus1

the passenger air filter will go to around 1 yr. or 20,000 mi before replacement is required. if the truck is equipped with bench seat, then there are three screws to remove from the blower cover. once cover is removed, then it is just a mere matter of replacing the filter, replacing the cover and tighten up the three screws that secure the cover. if however, the truck is equipped with bucket seats, then the dealer should perform this service as the center console will have to be removed to access one of the screws that retain the blower cover.
always here to help
Rick

obyone

I have the bucket seats and took me all of 10 minutes to change the filters removing two screws. BTW, at 10K, lot of fine dust particles. I could have vacuumed the filters but elected to replace since I had them out and only cost $20.

later-
Dean

mgdvhman

...got 29K miles and 1.5 years.....perhaps I should take a looksee?

- Tim

titus1

that i would like to witness. LOL
you can vacumn or use pressurized air but the filter has enough particles entrapped in the fibers that this process would be a waste of time. furthermore, i highly doubt that you removed the blower cover by only removing two of the three retaining screws. unless you applied some undue force on the blower cover in which case it clearly indicates that you should not give advice on such replacement. no offense obyone, but someone might actually try your method and end up with some broken parts. i doubt that you'd feel good about posting inadequate instructions, correct?
here to help
Rick

tucsonjwt

8500 miles. That was my condition in the desert - lots of dirt, twigs, leaves, etc. - don't know how all that stuff got in there. My clue was that the airflow from the heater/a/c was weak. But, of course, I only got the cheap version of the filter on my stripper.

obyone

Somehow, I just can't take you seriously, titus1. And I can't imagine why.

Tim-
Weren't you gonna check that thing for pneumonia germs or something like that? LOL!!

Dean

obyone

Good luck on that stripper air filter now! LOL!

Dean

z71bill

I have the bucket seats and console so I had to remove the outside cover to get to the filter.

But you do not need to remove the console!!!

Two of the bolts (7MM) are easy to get at. The third one is a pain. The bolt is right above the tranny hump. It is also recessed a little more than 1 inch - so getting a wench on it is impossible. Even a ratchet with a socket will not work. I took my 3/8 inch drive ratchet, put one of those 3/8 to 1/4 reducers on the end, then put the 1/4 inch drive 7MM socket on. It is a perfect fit. Then you need to remove 2 more small bolts and remove the filter. Mine had mold and leaves and general crud on it - this was after 12K miles.

mgdvhman

I would take Dean's advice way before I took yours "here to help" Ricki.....

Dean...I thought maybe I'll just pour some porter or stout down the vents and soak the filter...

it will be a nice aroma and it's gotta kill the germs....I'd imagine it kills a liver!

LOL

- Tim

willimjo

Is your owner's manual different than mine? Where did you come up with 20,000 miles between hvac filter changes? Owner's manual recommends every 10,000 miles. I agree with the others, if you have any dexterity at all, there is no need to remove the console.

titus1

of you guys. just look at the invaluable info and conversation that i should be acredited. i knew that when i posted about the cabin air filter that i could count on all you fine gents to get involved and get this topic hoppin. i give special thanks to obyone as i'm always able to count on ya for your help and support as well.
here to help
Rick

obyone

but you knew that, right? LMAO!!

Tim-

kills liver? what about the brain cells...lol!

chevy4me

I have the buckets and replaced the filters without even removing the third screw. Someone posted about pivoting the plastic cover with the third screw intact, it worked for me. Mold forced the replacement at 8000 miles.

obyone

removed two screws....like I said....titus1. When you get around to doing yours, come back and post for instructions....
here to help.
Dean

vince4

oby, you only paid $20 for your filters? I paid $33.80 + tax (full list). For you folks that haven't changed them yet, there are 2 filters located side by side. You need to change both. Did mine at 15k and they were quite dirty with leaves and stuff in there but no mold. I'm sure that depends on the climate where you live.

I know I sucked a lot of dirt into the filters driving off road behind another truck. That means the engine air filter must be filthy too but the little gauge reads fine so I've never even opened the box. Should we believe that gauge?

vince4

The red lead is hot all the time according to the schematic. I unhooked mine from the fusebox stud to wire in an aux battery so I can't say I've used it that way, but I seem to remember verifying that it was hot any time the fuse was installed. What year is your truck?

tucsonjwt

do I need to pay another $10K to buy a LT and get that second air filter?

obyone

If I remember correctly, it was about $23.00 for the pair. I had ordered it through a friend's repair shop who ordered it through my dealer. Now if I had gone directly to the dealer....who knows what I would have paid. That reminds me. Hitting 20k miles in about a week. Guess I'll order another set. On my '91 Nissan hardbody, kinda scared to see what the inside of the a/c condenser looks like and what type of organisms are growing in there....

titus1

that the blower cover can't be contorted to allow removal of the filter without removing the third screw, i'm only saying that it is not the proper way. for some, it might even end up in a damaged part. there is no need for arguing here or for someone to give spelling lessons, so may we please just go forward.
here to help
Rick

markbuck

cabin filters about a year ago. Bench seats in stripper model. Vaguely remember using like a 5.5mm combo wrench for one of the bolts...

Pretty easy, filter kit comes with both filters.

The engine filter pressure drop gauge will only be correct after the engine is taken to redline with WOT (max airflow across the filter). Do that, then check the little yellow gauge. If you live at high elevation, the gauge will probably not read correctly.

I paid around $20 at the dealer for the passenger cmpt air filter kit....

T minus one week to driving the new 2500HD CC!!!!

bco

have the buckets as well. two screws...pivoted the cover. no damage or stress on it. pulled filter, replaced. 10 minutes, one beer. no sweat. center console??? LOL! i'm thinking...no.

always here to help and advise based on experience...not make statements that i have no true knowledge of with the specific purpose of getting people riled up - that's just silly.

bco

blacksilver

In my 2001 LT Ex Cab, the filter is all but invisible, I think buried behind some shrouding. Whats the easy way to get at it?

BlackSilver

pocahontas

of one word that was not within the guidelines of our Town Hall terms of use. Also, for the sake of continuity, messages that were in direct response to this post were also deleted.

And now back to the subject of the Chevy Silverado. Thanks for your participation.
;-)

Pocahontas
Host
Pickups Message Board

tucsonjwt

you look at the side of the truck. I thought I was looking at a piece of felt - it was actually the vertical edge of the second filter. I has lots of sand and dirt in the second filter. Both are changed out now. I sit corrected in my stripper. No wonder they give you two filters in the GM parts box.

erikheiker

I have a 2001. The red wire is only hot with the ignition on. I have not installed the 40 amp fuse that came with the brake controller harness, but I really don't see how that would make the red lead hot all the time. I'll just run a wire up to the front. I need to run another wire up front for my PopLock tailgate lock anyway. Thanks for the info.

Erik

vince4

Well that's very odd, they must have changed the wiring from 2000.

The second air filter is easy to miss, luckly I had advance warning from someone who did miss it the first time. The filters are expensive but they look to be good quality; they look kind of like a HEPA filter and those are really expensive.

psp1996

i have a 2001 model and the red wire in the trailer pkg. only worked(hot) when i installed the fuse. W/out the fuse installed there was no power back there even with the ignition on.

Lewis

obyone

I'm glad we got all that straightened out...

Pickett

Has anyone experienced a very hot to the touch dash in the area of the radio buttons and CD slot. I would almost call it extreme. Is this a problem that I have or "Just the Way it Is?" Thanks for everyone's help and input......:)

willimjo

My 2001 LT only has 1150 miles and 35 hrs., but I've not experienced any hot temperatures around the radio/cd. It has been normal cabin temperature. Your radio temp doesn't sound normal to me.