Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

obyone

You believe everything you read? Especially from GM? doh!!! Look carefully at the filter. HEPA? Nope, not quite. Hmmmm...then again, it is if you believe....

BWAHAHAHA!!

vince4

I thought it looked like a HEPA filter. I priced a replacement HEPA for a Honeywell portable room air filter, it was $90. Those things are expensive. You wouldn't save any money tring to fit one in your truck.

vince4

17k miles on my 2000 2500 and no trouble with 4x4 system. I don't use it much in 4wd as a percentage of miles but I have used it many times. I've never changed either diff fluid, I guess I should before too long.

obyone

The price of one would be outrageous much less two for $20.00. Don't think so. Ever priced one of those small ones on the vacuum cleaner....yeah, you would be surprised. Hmmmm....unless GM is subsidizing the price of a HEPA......nah...don't think so.

mgdvhman

Ricki knows it all!

..he was so proud of all his past statements ..that he changed his screen name!

I believe GM would be losing money on them....just to help us out

- Tim

obyone

Not positive on this one but I think he changed his screen name to do a shortened version of his original screen name being used.

Speaking of the filters...just turned 20,000 miles and changed the orginal at 10K...does that mean it's ready to be changed again? Hmmm...better order a set of "HEPA" filters....doh!

mgdvhman

30K...and 1.5 years I better get going eh?

- Tim

bugsplat

New poster on this site. Just got my first Silverado (1500 Xcab, 4.3 v6)about a 1 1/2 months ago. Stumbled into the site while trying to sell my old car and was impressed by the knowledge of some of the posters. Couple of questions; I've noticed a very faint vibration at the high end of the first three gears when accelerating slowly or downhill. I never feel it when accelerating moderately or under load. Seems to occur only when the momentum of the truck gets near or slightly exceeds the pull of the engine. Anyone else have a V-6 with similar problems? Also, plan on towing with the heaviest load being about 3800 lbs. The bumper is rated 500/5000. Seem to be two camps on this. One camp says tow with the bumper, the other insists on a trailer hitch but only reason offered is "don't trust them bumpers". Any thoughts on whether a trailer hitch is warranted?.

whitevette01

Went to the smaller dealership for the replacement
filter today. Turns out they are going to be
sponsoring the Corvette Club this year & offering
members a 25% discount. So got the filters for
$10 less than was expecting.

Overall was easy to replace, just that one screw
in the middle being hard to remove and install

obyone

welcome to edmunds. I would go with the trailer hitch cause I too dont' trust those bumpers. They are really thin. When you have the time check it out for yourself. I couldn't believe it when they dented so easily

vince4

The bumper will work, that's why it's rated 500/5000. No doubt a receiver hitch is stronger and would be better to have if some emergency comes up. If you have a receiver, by all means use it. Otherwise for occasional towing don't worry about it.

Other than the obvious strength, the advantage of a receiver hitch is the ability to use a load-leveling hitch. That and a sway controller are the best for heavy loads. If you are going to pull a travel trailer or similar frequently, you should spend the money to do it safely.

mgdvhman

,...if so..use that. If not...trust the bumper I guess. I used to tow with my 88 bumper hitch...never had a problem with light boats....but it didn't have a hitch.

- Tim

bugsplat

Thanks for the scientific explanation. LOL. Have a basic 2wd model rado and was hoping to use the hich money to buy a few more toys and gadgets for the truck. Oh well. I guess the roughly $150.00 for the hitch is a small price to pay for peace of mind while towing. I've read through mosts of the posts on the rado threads and have seen only one or two posters with the V-6. Know of any regular posters that have one?

obyone

There is one that I know of. He usually posts here or over on Base Model Pickups, buying, owning, accessorizing

tucsonjwt "Base Model Pickups - buying, owning, accessorizing" Mar 5, 2001 5:15pm

His name is tucsonjwt.

87lion

I got a Hidden Hitch from JC Whitney for under $100. So far I haven't done any towing. I bought it to so I could use a receiver mounted bike rack. I also intend to buy a popup camper. I like the Hidden Hitch because most of the receiver except for the square hole is not visible. It's hidden behind the bumper.

svoma123

HEPA stands for High Energy Particle Air filteration and any filter that can pick-up down to .3microns can place the HEPA name on their filter. Thats all I know about HEPA.

wight1

Maybe I haven't looked hard enough yet, but how do I get at the air filter for the A/I? I've looked under the dash, but not sure what I need to take apart to get at the filter housing.

Mine is a Y2K 2500 with bucket seats and center console.

Directions guys?

vinhn

I have been looking to purchase one of these soon and have read many of the posts here. There hasn't been many posts on this new model, perhaps because it's relatively new. I'd like to hear opinions from those who have had this truck for perhaps at least 3 months already. What problems have you had with it, if any? Where and how do you drive? What are your driving conditions? I test drove it, and it is great, but I am concerned about reliability. GM claims to have fixed problems plagued by earlier year models, but I am uncertain if it is true. I mainly like it because of it's large cab space, and usefullness of carrying things in the bed. Other than that, if it is not reliable, I just have to go with a Honda Accord and sacrifice my want for bed space. Other trucks don't interest me much. Thanks folks.

vinhn

Sorry, forgot to add that I wanted the ExCab shortbed version.

bco

stop stop stop! whatever you're doing...do NOT take advice from people who recommend you pull the entire center console in order to replace the cabin air filter. these people are wrong! LOL!

seriously, it's hard to describe, but your manual should have fairly decent pics in it. essentially, there are three or so hex-screws you'll need to pull. you gently pull down on a plastic tab and rotate it to one side. all this is located under your glove box. if you want really good pics, let me know, i'll try to take them. kinda hard to, but i can try. anyways, you should be able to find what we're talking about by looking up "cabin air filter" in your manual. once you get the plastic tab off to the side, follow the manual directions to pull the filters. i say filters because there are two separate filter elements in there.

here to help...without having you disassemble your truck!

bco

bco

um...ok. i love my silverado, though it's a 2000 ext cab LS Z71 - and not what you're looking for. but...if you're "not interested in other trucks" i would recommend you rethink why you're looking at a silverado. if it's that or an accord, you could be in for a surprise. have you ever owned/driven a full-sized truck before? for one, are you aware that the amount of money you're going to spend on gas in any given month is about to double (assuming you're currently driving something comparable to an accord)? don't get me wrong by any stretch of the imagination - i love my silverado. but there truly are many nice trucks out there that meet the "big cab space" and "bed" requirements you have. f-150 supercrew would fit the bill. chevy's coming out with a four door s-10 in the near future (2002 i think???) that will have a powerful inline 6 in it. not telling you what you should look for...just trying to help.

accord or silverado...lots of gray area in between there, my friend...

bco

blacksilver

I have a 2001 1500 LT 2WD 5.3L ExCab, which is the same truck, with more "plush" and a little bigger engine.

I originally looked at the LS 4.8L version, but when I had added in some options (which were standard on the LT) it just made sense (to me) to buy the LT -- price difference ended up only about 1,800 difference. On some cold mornings, the heated leather alone was worth the price of the upgrade from LS.

After about 5 months of hard Minnesota use, I am *extremely* happy with this truck -- it's a willing hauler, pulls like a horse, get's reasonable mileage, and cleans up pretty enough to take Honey to the dance in town on Saturday night. I have not had a single malfunction, and none of the complaints I've heard about like vibration, pinging, etc. My driving is a combination of freeway, rural, and "in town" use, plus a fair amount of ranch/farm use, pulling trailers, etc.

Because of the long wheelbase, the ride is as good as all but the plushest sedans, and the interior room is great.

Go for it! You'll wonder how you ever survived without a truck.

Hans

mledtje

That's not a new model, it's been out since 99. I have 1500 with the 4.8L. It has 28K on it, and has been as close to dead reliable as I could ask. Since mine is a first year truck it has had a couple of recalls and minor warranty repairs.

Most of its life has been at full GVWR (6400lbs) and not a problem.

With a full load I averaged 15.4 mpg and over 20 on the highway empty.

Mike L

kansan

I recently installed a "Power Tower" helix throttle body spacer, and this weekend installed a K&N Generation 2 filtercharger kit. The only problem was that with the throttle body spacer installed, the clearance between the fan shroud and the throttle body was too tight to fit the K&N intake tubing in. The clearance was so tight that I felt lucky to get the stock tubing to fit back into place. The K&N installation instructions said that some trimming of the fan shroud may be needed to fit the intake tube into place, and that is without the throttle body spacer installed. I wasn't about ready to start butchering my fan shroud. Has anyone installed a K&N Gen. 2, and if you did, did you have to trim the fan shroud? Also, does anyone know how much difference the K&N intake tube makes versus the stock intake tube? I figured the cold air dam and the filter were the 2 most important elements of the K&N system.
Thanks,
Ken

87lion

I've got your truck in the 2000 only it has the long bed. I have had no problems with it other than the stiff gaskets make the rear doors hard to close in cold weather. I've got over 16k miles on it and average about 21 hwy, 17.5 mixed. The 4.8L is more than adequate on the highway and in the mountains and does well with the bed full. I can't speak to towing as I haven't done any, but if you're considering an Accord you're probably not going to tow. Anyway,I like this truck a lot. However, it is big and parking is sometimes a chore. If you really want a truck this is a good one, at least in my experience.

mblrds

When I bought my truck, it didn't have the hitch package which was okay since all I really wanted out of it was the tranny cooler. Anyhow, eventually decided that I wanted it after all. Did a little shopping around and could get one for around $100, plus $25 to install. Went to the dealership and decided on getting one through them. Cost, $160.
Why did I pay more for one from the dealer? Because it came with the wiring harness that you hardwire into the existing taped to the frame above the spare tire. Also came with a pigtail to hardwire onto a brake module and plugs into a jack below the dash.
The wiring harness also has a line that runs all the way into the engine compartment and hardwires into the power bus that sits on the driverside wheel well, includes a 40 amp fuse.
They wanted 4 hours labor to install. Did it myself. All the holes are predrilled in the frame and bumper and the package includes all the nuts and bolts. Instructions TOO!

'00 GMC Sierra Z71 4dr w/5.3

whitevette01

Was using Edmunds and dealer net. If calculated
right If option an LS out its 500 to 1000 less
than just ordering an LT 1500 ext cab. Owners
of these have you found this to be true when
actually buying the vehicle.

I'm just checking now. Its in the thinking
cap that might sell my 2000 LS reg cab
to a family member at a 2004 price that way
if they sell or trade in a couple of years
will get there money back. Really want another
reg cab but don't see a way of ordering leather
seats.

cowboyjohn1

I don't recall what the price differential was when I ordered in October, but I do know that I immediately went to the LT. The dealer said mine was only the second LT they had recieved when I picked it up in Feb. To me, when I spend that much money, another 1000 to 1500 to make me happy isn't much. I agree with Minnesota Hans that the seat warmer is great. My honey thinks so too. She only wishes it was a little lower to the ground. I love that LT.
cowboyjohn

hunter98

I wouldn't be without the leather in a vehicle anymore. Have had two towncars and a 99 and a 2000 SLT Sierra. I wouldn't be without it. It isn't much more and I got all the extra cost back trading for a 2000 SLT. It is only a small portion of the overall cost of the truck. Kinda like the CC is 1600 over the Ext cab, so the next truck may be a CC. 1600 on a 35k truck (Duramax 2500HD) isn't a whole heck of alot. Dealer already told me 400 over factory invoice whenever I want to order my 2002. And he will give me a great trade again on my 2000 Ext Cab 5.3L SLT Pewter with 265 Michelin LTX AT and will have around 35k miles next winter. Its nice having a truck that is less than 10% of overall production.

Hunter

mledtje

Then Markbuck and I should feel great because our trucks are less than 5% (maybe 1%) of production?

And I do feel great about my truck and I'm glad you feel good about yours. Wish everyone did.

Mike L
00 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd

markbuck

You mean everybody doesn't order a fully loaded base model white and tan vinyl HD 4x4 CC LB?

Separate question. Owners manual says change rear diff oil after first 500 miles of towing. Stopped by and picked up 4qts of Synthetic 75W-140 oil for my new locker. Owners manual called for Synthetic 75W-90 which cross referenced to 75W-90 synthetic cold weather front diff lube. Took a little while, but I decided to go with the 75W-140 stuff. Comments???

wight1

OK, I'll take a look again at the manual. Do I need to pull the glove box out or unscrew the glove box hinge to get at the hex-screws?

obyone

negative on either. Has nothing to do with the glove box.

bco

i'll go take some pics...gimme 'bout 30 minutes.

bco

bco

for some reason my a: drive at work is on the fritz. i'll take pics and upload them when i get home. i'll try to have them posted by tomorrow.

bco

bco

tech at my dealer's service center recommended the mobil one 75w90 synthetic gear oil to me for my rear diff regardless of whether or not i tow. his recommendation was to change it out sometime during the first 10k miles. he went on to state that, though it will prob'ly last 100k miles under non-towing conditions, he changes his every 50k if he's not towing. every 25k if he is. cheap peace of mind...

don't know about the 75w140 you were talking about...no experience there...

bco

hunter98

I meant less than 10% of the trucks are SLT compared to SL and SLE (LT, compared to Base, and LS). If you put it all together, probable the rarest would be a 3500HD SLT, CC 8100 6spd 2wd Bench seat, Sunset Gold, hehe, like .001% of production. If you go shopping for 1500's will find about 10% LTs Im told, same with the 2500s and 3500s. May find a few more CC ordered as Lts since whats 1800 on a 30+k truck. You can usually get a LS person to upgrade to a LT if they try it. But very few LT people will go to an LS. Hence the resale is very good on them.

Hunter

dch0300

Dealer service center told me to change my rear locking diff. fluid at 6,000 miles even if I was not towing anything yet.

-David

bco

here's the cabin air filter pic:



pop the hex screws at #'s 1, 2, and 3. the plastic cover below the dotted line will drop down slightly. pull it down gently, as it will still be attached in the back. from here, reference your owner's manual, as it has pics that will show you how to disengage the clasp that's holding the filter elements in. there are two elements in there, so make sure you pull two and replace two. it goes back together just like it came out...questions...let me know.

here to help...

bco

bco

the number one screw (they're all hex screws) is a (^)*+ to get at. some folks bypass it and bend the plastic shield a little more. just so you know. it's up "inside" the plastic cover...about 1-1.5 inches deep...

bco

obyone

[non-permissible content removed] was talking about. To get to that screw...you have to remove the center console. Well, it's good experience to do it the hard way. It makes you appreciate the easy way. Course some of us feel a little dumb doing it the hard way all the time.

BWAHAHAHAHA!!

obyone

place a pic like that in the owner's manual. Would have been so much easier. If you think the owner's manual is difficult, look at the description in the shop manual. You would never think that the pic they showed was of an area under the dash. Looked more like a drawing of a....well, never mind.

hunter98

OK HERE IS THE ANSWER YOU ARE ALL LOOKING FOR
Tire Size Height/Width Program Size
215x85R16 30.38x8.46 Computer
245x75R16 30.47x9.65 Computer
265x75R16 31.65x10.43 Computer
235x85R16 31.73x9.25 265x75R16
305x70R16 32.81x12.01 245x70R19.5
285x75R16 32.83x11.22 245x70R19.5
245x70R19.5 33.00x9.65 Computer
255x85R16 33.07x10.04 245x70R19.5

I saw the 245x70R19.5 on my 1500 a couple of weeks ago, and had been wondering too. I finally did the math. The most size would be off by my above reccomendation is .19" Your tread will vary over .75" over the life of a tire. (Since you wear off the top and bottom of the tire on height.) There is also more variation than this .19 between brands of tires or with rim widths. My 1500 came from the factory with 245x75R16. When we went into reprogram for 265x75R16, the computer showed 215x85R16. So the factory had it set for an equivalent size when my size was even in there too, the standard size even. Tires can even vary a .5" in height and width amoung brands. Your better brands such as Michelin and BFG run larger than the above and cheap brands run less than the above calculations.

I hope this helps you all and makes sense, so, all the popular sizes from the 215 to 305 can be accomidated with the 245x75R16, 265x75R16 or the 245x70R19.5 program and be dead on accurate as you gm would get if they tried. Or maybee they did.

Hunter

87lion

Kyle is actually Titus!

Here to help...

Teeheehee!

obyone

Brilliant deduction 87lion.

87lion

it's been kinda nice around here lately. No Titus and a host with a slower trigger finger. Maybe this topic ain't quite dead yet!

mgdvhman

I looked at 'em both...when i wanted a sportside and slider....which were not avaialble in an LT back then....a loaded LS was more expensive..and didn't have the heated seats and 2 position memory.

who cares about the memory?...but gimme them heated seats any day man!

...a great option here where it's cold.....worth every penny....now if only they had heated steering wheels.......hmmmmmm

- Tim

tex6

Heard a "catchy" radio commercial for the 2500HD Duramax today. Goes something like this. The voice that does all the Silverado commercials does intro, then a male voice asks a lady out for a date. Her reply, What makes you think I will go out with you? He: I just bought a 2001 Duramax. Her: Oh really, tell me more. He then gives specs. She sounding really excited, Ohhh, you don't know how that allison transmission turns me on. Then the Silverado commercial voice comes on. "Not all results are guaranteed"

Thought that was pretty nifty.

obyone

Never could figure out what to use that for on the Denali. Damn weather is hot enough as it is without no heated seats.....ah, but for you northerners....or the old and feeble...I guess it does help.

whitevette01

would be A/C seat, not heated. On a 100 plus
day and behind hit the leather. But still prefer,
just can't get used to the cloth. Not sure but
think Navigator has A/C seat, didn't keep mine
long enough to remember.