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Comments
When I was out for the interview I saw the proving grounds site, but I'm not sure if it was still operational or not. I'll check it out once I'm settled in.
I saw a lot of dually, HD and SD pickups hauling boats and camping trailers.
I'm going to take the Silverado from DC to Phoenix with a fair load of household stuff in the bed and the dog riding with me in the cab. It should give the truck a good workout.
- Tim
- Tim
esp. no actually i was referring to myself. i'm 5'9" and can't see it from the driver's seat.
"Rippling sound from windshield: Doesn't happen without the deflector?"
i never noticed it before putting on the deflector...others have experienced the same "phenomenon" if you will.
"Is it a result of the altered slipstream?"
that would be my guess. not totally sure though.
like i said, small bead of silicone down each side makes the bad man stop...
bco
I have posted a few times and I read this BB all the time. I know lately it has gone full circle and I need to keep that trend. I remember reading about how to take the dash off a few months ago. I wanted to wait till the good weather got here to do it and today was the day. I have a very annoying rattling sound that is very intermittent. The dealer won't look at it unless it is happening all the time so I decided to fix it myself. So to the dashboard.
1. I puled at the corners to get the front face off, this was very easy.
2 I unscrewed all the screws that I could find, the ones on the front and the ones in the fuse panel.
3. I went to the passenger side and undid the 2 screws in the panel opposite the fuse panel.
4. I took off the 2 plastic things that go up from the dash to the top corner of the window.
5. I tried to get the dash off. I could get the drivers side going but the passenger side wouldn't move
6. I too off the hex head screws around the glove box, I know there is a top and a bottom to the dash but I thought maybe there were some screws hiding under there, there were not (at least none that I could see)
So hats it, then I gave up and put it all back together. It seems like the grab bar on the passenger side (above the air bag) may be holding on the dash somehow but I cant figure out how.
If anybody can help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Mark, Post 1857....from reading my service manual, you got a tiger by the tail on this job.
The first instruction is to disarm the air bag system...don't know if this is necessary or not but why take a chance. (I pull the fuse, but there may be some power left in the capacitors to detonate, so watch out for YELLOW wires)
As you have done, remove the trim plate bezel.
Remove the dash end panels(fuse cover on left and the one on the right just like it).
Remove the air diffuser vents; left(includes lamp switch and 4WD switch if equipped), right and right center(one by the radio leave alone)
Now I have to go to another volume of the service manual...To get the left out, pull on the housing that all the switches, diffusers are in. Be careful to remove the plugs for the switches and I will tell you this the harnesses behind don't give much room for movement, so be gentle but firm! There are 4 spades that hold the unit in the dash carrier(one in upper left hard to see, but it is there).
To remove the right center and right, set the diffuser toward the driver, then "firmly pull the air outlet to the left in order to release the outlet from the instrument panel". Illustration shows fingers of both hands pulling on inside of outlet with diffuser turned toward driver.
Now that you got that far, back to the first volume.
"Remove the assist handle by depressing the release tabs accessed through the air outlet duct holes." On your own here, buba...haven't needed to go this far.
Remove the windshield pillar garnish mouldings...pull toward you starting at the top.
Remove the bolts retaining the pad to the instrument panel assembly.
>Disconnect the electrical connector to the ambient light sensor as you are lifting the dash pad.<
To assemble, reverse process.
I'm glad I bought this 4 volume set, besides trying to find a place where it is safe, I get to do exercises every time it is moved! ha!
The pictures don't seem to do much more than what is written in text.
Good luck on this one Mark, let us know how you make out.
matthew
Mike L
Tighten it until it just starts to become loose.
- Tim
Wife decide on one yet?
Full size safer.....but she still likes the Sport Trac.....oh well.
Next time around after the CC HD..perhaps I will get a 2500 Burb and convince her to go upscale and get a Jag!
gotta do something in 5 years to revolt against being 40!
LOL
- Tim
Midlife crisis coming up tim?
LOL
- Tim
PIAA has a kit for $259 which includes two size 1500 lamps, wiring, switch, etc. When I told the sales guy I didn't need wiring, switches, etc., he said "Yes you do -- the original wiring isn't right".
Sounds like BS to me -- why won't my factory wiring/switch/etc work?
Anyone know?
Hans/Blacksilver
The wring wasnt the reason the higher watt bulbs do not work its the housing which is CHEAP PLASTIC that melts.
These places live on "add on sales" remember that they will tell you anything to get $$$.
Thanks for all the info. I'll let you guy's know how it turns out.
Mark
If I remember correctly, the factory bulbs are actually a "blinding" 27W! :-( Some people have posted that they've replaced the factory bulbs with 38W bulbs and had noticeable improvement, although still not what they would consider acceptable. Others have tried 55W bulbs, but apparently that melts the plastic.
Stan
Also for tucks4me2 I also have that head light switch you are talking of and it sure helps a lot and it has a three year warrenty.
Andrew
If you have AAA insurance, they have an All Risks plan which covers mechanical. I'd trust them more than any non-manufacturer ext warr company. GM sent me a letter with full details on a 3-level plan for my truck and I'm sure it was a GM plan. You could call the GM 800 customer service number and ask.
...you can purchase one at 35,999 miles if you want to...(if GM discount being used you must buy within' x months after)..
wait until later....and after nothing has happened of any major cost...then decide..
- Tim
Mike L
bco
When replacing the DRL lamp on the vehicles listed above, use bulb P/N 1999482. This bulb has a trade bulb number of 4157K. These bulbs should be replaced in pairs for customer satisfaction. This bulb has an expected bulb life that is almost double the previous bulb.
Parts Information
This new DRL bulb, P/N 1999482, is currently NOT available from GMSPO. Parts inventory is expected to be available shortly. However, the bulb may be purchased from the local jobber under the trade number 4157K.
Lean Hesitation, Sag or Stumble When Coolant Temperature is Between -6 and +20°C (Reprogram PCM)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado, Sierra, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L, or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
and 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
This bulletin is being revised to add 6.0L (RPO LQ4) V8 Engine applications. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-03-009 (Section 06 -- Engine).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a lean hesitation, sag or stumble condition present during light to moderate throttle accelerations.
The condition is usually present only on the first one or two accelerations.
The condition occurs when the coolant temperature is between -6 and +21°C (20 and 70°F).
Fuels with a high driveability index can also be a contributor.
Cause
Calibrations not optimized for various operating parameters.
Correction
Verify that the driveability condition is not the result of an inoperative component, or a related wiring/other condition.
/randy
- Tim
Im just saying that they upped the warranty on the olds because they are going out of business. They are hoping itll sell more cars that way
No I'm not a auto bulb expert I just have some of these bulbs sitting here from other vehicles I've had that look the same as what I used.
Andrew
New to the message board. Need your assistance. I ordered a 3500LT Diesel Dually on 2-11-01. As of 3-20-01 have been told that constraints are in place on LT models per dealership. Anyone out there have a tracking web site or verification about this constraint problem? Appreciate any help, thanks.
nicola2