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Comments
A real question: Don't mean to sound ignorant, but how does driving to the steel mills tear up a truck? I originally come from eastern PA coal and steel country and honestly don't understand the comment.
-- Don
Also theres a lime substance which comes out of smoke stacks and about 3 times a wk everything gets covered in this stuff. Basically ruins the paint. Gets in the paint and looks like huge water spots. Hard as all heck to get out. They used to get $25 each time it happened from the companies insurance or a free wash and wax but it happened so much they had to stop it.
also one more thing about the Roads - not really paved. Semi traveled and not maintained so it takes a toll on the body/suspension of the truck.
Id say 9 out of 10 people who work there have a "beater" they drive because they dont wanna ruin their vehicle. Makes sense why get something new to have it ruined over a few yrs?
Ryan
One thing about the IAS shocks for sure, they aren't very good with heavy loads. They are better than the factory units, but only a little. I carry a camper and find them overwhelmed by that load. This doesn't sound like an issue for you with a lowered truck. I'd be happy with them if I didn't have the camper.
I'll probably buy a set of Rancho 9000s soon. Is anyone interested in a slightly used (15k) set of Edelbrocks?
Thanks for any input
Craig
Ken
Hans
Dave
Coincidence? I think not!
thanks.
-brian
WHERE? I paid $850 for 5
You wont get em cheaper than $156 a tire
That equals $624 plus mounting balancing and junking the old ones. Now your around $700.
Ryan
Mark
Jim
No truck though. He is staying behind.
Ryan
- Tim
Randy
I was thinking about adding a cab extended to my truck, I currently have wade redcaps and think that a black cab extended matched with the caps might look good but I can't find one that I like.
Does anybody know of a company that makes one that looks similar to the avalanche. The thought also crossed my mind that if I wait a while (maybe a long while?)the one for the Ave. might fit the rado???
Thanks,
Mark
you might try this place www.
www. ????
lol,
Mark
No truck eh? You must be hurtin... LOL
Jim
In my opinion that would be based upon the current running condition (tempermental-female vs. running good-male).
-Eric
PS no offense meant to the fairer sex...
I could have used it today. Went to my cousins baseball game and the parking lot was a grassy field. This van got stuck and was spinning its wheels for like 30 mins. Oh i wish i had my truck. I would have easily pushed him out. Would have got to test out the grill guard.
Oh well its nice to be home.
Also the truck is a "male" because just look at it no girl could look that mean
Ryan
1999 Chevy Truck C 1500 P/U 2WD V8-325 5.3L VIN T SFI
Top - Vehicle
Technical Service Bulletins
. All Technical Service Bulletins
. . Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort Required
.
Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort Required
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-007A
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort
(Replace Throttle Body)
Models:
1999-20O0 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
This bulletin is being revised to add additional part numbers and clarify labor operations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-007
(Section 06- Engine controls).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced idle Air Control valve durability.
1. Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
2. Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange. The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge,on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.
3. If the Date Code is 2979, or earlier:
^ Replace the Throttle Body Assembly using appropriate Service Manual procedure.
^ DO NOT clean the Throttle Body Assembly.
^ DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Assemblies.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
This darn thing is bolted up pretty good. Its actually classified as a push bar. I know if im going 70 mph it wont protect the front end but for pushing things at slow speeds and not ramming into them it seems like itll work fine. I think ill test it out on my dads truck one of these days.
It was so funny to watch this guy sit and spin his tires for 30 min. Felt bad for the guy but i wasnt going in the mud to push him out. I really do wish i had my truck.
(quad i do have a tow strap in my truck under the back seat for emergency uses)
Funny thing i also seen by my uncles house. Me and my gf are going into the house after we went shopping. New reg cab 4x4 silverado goes by. As it goes by you wouldnt believe it but it had GMC rims on it. I was like what a goof gmc rims on a chevy truck. My gf was like "you are the only person who would notice something like that"
Ryan
I know you don't believe anything I tell you at first Ryan. Just harken back to what quad told you in the beginning, like on dad's S10...said "take it to dealer." What did you do? 2 sensors, one cat and hours of frustration later? Shoulda listened to quad!!!
$315 total.
Dealership would have been ??? outrageous i can tell you that. They probably would have kept it 2-3 days also.
It really wasnt hours of frustraion. Total number of hrs it took to diagnose was id probably say 2.5. Hr here hr there after work. This wk it is getting new shocks. Last wk it got new trans fluid and filter. Itll be like a new truck soon.
If its out of warranty screw the dealerships. Work on it yourself.
Ryan
Later you can tell him I told you so...and I'll be a witness.
....as for mean looking girls....well....I'll just leave that one alone....
- Tim
don't worry bout no plastic parts neither, that's what super glue is for.
good luck on this one now!
But if I was, I'd agree with Oby that replacing the throttle body is the only true fix for the sticking throttle. What happens is the throttle shaft bushings get worn, wallowed out into an egg shape. So under engine vaccuum, (under deceleration), the throttle shaft gets pinned back into the worn area of the bushing. The butterfly plate may stick against the throttle bore, but not always. Lubing is just a band aid fix.
Of course if this was Ryan, just say "spray some WD40 in there..no need takin' it to the dealer!"
Thanks!
I am sure taking a beating as of late.
Ryan
Course some owners insist on using their trucks for something it wasn't designed to do....especially with all the plastic in the front grill....hehe
Why is that guy standing like that?
Because he just bought a car when he really wanted a Silverado.
matthew