Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

dwryter

Hi, Autonomous. I'm pretty sure I read that P5 timing belts are non-interference types, but there seems to be disagreement here. I believe you have access to the Official Word on such things. Do you know about this one? If I know the engine won't get damaged, I'll risk putting off the expense a bit longer. Thanks!

iamz

The P5 has an interference engine. If the belt breaks, so does your engine. New engine is about $3800.

autonomous

I'm pretty sure I read that P5 timing belts are non-interference types, but there seems to be disagreement here. I believe you have access to the Official Word on such things

That's my understanding also. I'll pull out the service manual tonight for the "official word" and post the information here.

Even with a non-interference engine you have to consider a broken timing belt risky. But if danger is your business, go for it!

iamz

Looks like autonomous is correct and I'm wrong. I went to the Gates site and it seems to indicate the 2.0 liter engine in the P5's is a non-interference. I also found this link that gives some useful information as for labor time and other components that should be replaced at the same time.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/When_should_the_timing_belt_be_changed_on_a_2002_Mazda- _Protege_5

winston3x

ugg, i'm in the timing belt boat now as well. Car only has 60xxx miles on it but all of the belts are nearing 7 years old and have never been changed (bought used a few months ago). external belts need to be done soon and timing belt is a few months away according to inspection. i'm in a Sch. 1 maintenance area.

the killer is the mark up on the Timing Kit (belt/tensioner/pulley) -$400. I can buy the same Gates kit retail for $285 or one from protegegarage.com for $129. when i do this i'll be doing water pump (75%mark up from retail) and all other belts, seals and gaskets.
Not quite sure what to do, quote for all of the work is over $1000, but it's warrantied for two years. this is a reputable independent shop, not a dealer. I need to shop around a bit.

dwryter

Thanks, autonomous and iamz. And extra credit to iazm for the link to wiki.answers.com. Cool site.

p5zoomer

Hi All, I have a 2003 P5 with 101,200k's. I am looking into changing the timing belt myself. Any ideas on where I can get some info on this? I used the Haynes manual on my previous car (Mazda 323) and didn't have any problems. Can't seem to get one on the 2003 P5.

iamz

Someone else was looking for this also....

Protege 5 workshop manual;

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Mazda_Guide/Protege_5

Click where it says "(One Large Download) (49.3MB)" When the file download box pops up click the "Save" button.

p5zoomer

Thanks, will do.

oldman15

03, P5 106,000 mile 5-speed. Shifting is somewhat difficult and tight. One dealership suggested cleaning and replacing linkage sleave. Never heard of this.
Or
Probably could use transaxle lube change. Anyone change theirs and w/ what?
Anyone know where one can find GL-4 75W90 as GL-5 apparently causes synchro deterioration?

Thanks for any info.

oldman15

iamz, dwryter, autonomous, winston,
On the Gates site, "find out now" hot button shows 03 P5 to be non-interference, but
clicking on "Timing Belt Replacement Guide" shows it is interference.
Same site, Go figure.
Good luck.

iamz

Well, that explains my confusion. I had looked it up a couple of months ago at their site and remembered reading that it was an interference engine.

I guess that since I found a couple other links suggesting it is not an interference engine, that is probably the case. Might call the dealer to double check though.

sacha1

Last month I had a front wheel bearing replaced at the dealership at a cost of $420. This month I took it in for a rear rattling sound going over slightly bumpy pavement and they tell me the front struts are leaking and there's play in the front and rear S-links. Total estimate to repair: $539 for struts; $215 for front swaybar end links; $199 for rear S-links. This is all Greek to me. Does all this expense sound reasonable for only 77,500 kilometres?

autonomous

Does all this expense sound reasonable for only 77,500 kilometres?

No, this sounds like premature wear to me; on the other hand, things happen. I had a problem with my steering rack a few months ago; I suspect I rode over a speed bump too quickly and caused a power steering fluid leak. When the dealership checked for the leak they determind the steering rack was damaged and needed to be replaced at a cost of approximately $800 (including remanufactured parts, a wheel alignment and a spring tune-up).

Do you drive in unusual conditions (rough or rocky terrain) or suspect something odd occurred that may have been the cause?

leswallace43

Does anyone know if there's a 6 spd trans that will bolt up to the '02 Protege5? Years ago I raced (younger then.) an Austin Heally with electric overdrive in each forward gear. Even one (5th) gear electric overdrive would be perfect for this MP5 five speed. Anyone heard of anything like either of those being available? I dearly love my little MP5 but one more gear would be great.

oldman15

Wheel bearing at 80k and another at 100k miles. Each was about $250 at dealership.
I price all dealerships before acting (3 in the area), to keep them honest.

I have what sounds like the same rattles, at 110k miles.
As much fun as this car is, it does require significant small parts repair at high dealership prices. I've never replaced struts before and usually keep cars until 200k. Sounds like premature wear, but what can you do?

You might want to get some alternate opinions and prices before handing over another $1000 to the service dept.

Keep us informed & good luck.

03 P5

sacha1

Thanks for your comments and take on this. It seemed premature to me, too, compared to other cars I've owned. What can I do? Rather than fork over any more money fixing the Protege (who knows what was going to go next?), I traded it in, rattles and all, on a 2008 Honda Fit Sport and am now applying for the $1,000 Canadian federal eco-rebate. I'm also enjoying the way the Fit handles.

oldman15

Latest rattles are attributed to front sway bar links and rear swar bar bushings.($400 fix). Upcoming would be clutch at $700.

So, it sounds like you made a wise decision trading it.

I'll probably have to do the same. Too bad, I've always gotten complements on the P5 looks, and it handles like a go-cart, making it a lot of fun to drive.

Good luck w/ the Honda.

Oldman15

sbeth77

I am getting ready to do this exact thing and am attempting to do it myself (replace the coils). Could someone tell me exactly how to do this?

winston3x

check here: protege5.com

there may not be a description for just that, but it's probably included in one of the "how-to's" or another technical thread. FYI .. it's much easier to search the site if you sign up. good luck

you can also download a workshop manual here

jdi915

I've had the 2002 Protege 5 for 4 years. Bought it at 11,000 miles and now have 85,000. 6-weeks ago, the check engine light started coming on in conjunction with what felt like the car downshifting while driving about 40-45 mph, and having a hard time shifting out of that gear (oddly enough, the RPMs stay between 2000-3000 when it does this, unless I accelerate, then they go above 3000, almost hit 4000 and the car will feel like it "jumps" to the next higher gear). The car will also shake, or idle very rougly, after stopping, or while slowing to a stop, for a period of 3-4 seconds. It feels like it is going to stall out. These two problems seem to happen independently from each other and they come and go -- i.e. they do not happen 100% of the time.

So far I've had the following work done in the past 6 weeks to try and solve the problems:

-Rear motor mount replaced (what they said would solve the "shaking" problem)
-Spark Plugs and Wires replaced
-O2 Censor replaced (what they claimed was setting off the check engine light)
-Transmission drained and re-filled
-Serpentine belts replaced
-Timing belt and pulleys replaced

Essentially, none of these have seemed to solve the problem of the car feeling like it gets stuck in a lower gear while driving, and idling rough while stopped and in drive. In fact, the problem seems to be getting worse. Does this sound like a transmission issue, or is there something else I need to consider? If it is the transmission, why have two different shops been unable to diagnose it?

Thanks.

debbi1229

When I was having almost the same issues with my '03 P5 as you describe my problem ended up being my coil-packs. I don't know if they have a way to check them without actually replacing them - I think they finally figured out my problem through a process of elimination but not before it toasted my catalytic converter! Good luck - hope it gets figured out for you soon.

autonomous

The rough idle, high RPM, shaking and near stall sound like the EGR problem I had with my 2002 P5. This is a well-known problem (according to my Mazda service rep) so I am a bit surprised that this was not mentioned to you earlier.
The EGR gets fouled up and in effect chokes the engine.

The other services (timing belt, transmission fluid replaced) sound like good ideas considering the age of the car but seem unrelated to solving this problem.

winston3x

I with debbi on this, had the same issues and was resolved by the coil packs. The OEM mazda coilpacks are fairly expensive. You can find ones from Rockauto, or NAPA, etc... that are less exspensive. With all that said, those symptoms can be the result of issues other than the coil packs.

jdi915

Thanks for the info. Approx. how much did those coil packs cost you?

jdi915

Thanks winston. Are coil packs something I can do myself (little to no car mechanic experience)? Or do you suggest having a shop install them?

Thanks for the advice.

jdi915

I've also read a good deal of info on the EGR. It sounds like cleaning it might be the recommended first course of action. I would like to do it myself, but have no idea how to do it. Do you know of any online resources that would help?

autonomous

Do you know of any online resources that would help?
Sorry, no I don't. But you can find tons of information by googling "EGR cleaning". Good luck.

winston3x

Hi jdi915,
you can get the coil packs, (you'll need 2) for about $25 each from NAPA or cheaper from autozone (check rockauto as well). They are about $100 each from mazda. It is not a difficut job, only a couple of screws on each, but if you have little or no experience (like me) I would have a shop do it.- less than 1 hour $ laobr.

cleaning EGR valve

here is a detailed how-to (w/pictures) for removing and cleaning the EGR valve. Again, I don't think this would be a job for a novice (like me) but judge for yorself after reading the how-to.

It's not a good idea to just throw money and parts at a problem, but... if every one is stumped and you have to try something, the non-oem coil packs are going to be a cheaper job than,cleaning and or replacing the EGR.

glennisf

I'm the original owner of an '02 PR5 (stick shift - 96K miles). I developed a leak in the gasket between the fuel pump and fuel tank. When disassembling the system, rust was an issue and the shop could only save the fuel pump. They are having a great deal of difficulty finding a replacement fuel tank. The shop has tried Mazda dealers and I have spent a great deal of time on the Internet trying to find one myself. We have both been unsuccessful. Does anyone know where we can buy a fuel tank for an 02 PR5?

Just in case anyone is wondering, the car has been a champ for seven years. I've had the standard rear brake caliper issues and a power window failed. Otherwise, I have had a great experience as a PR5 owner and would buy this car again in a heartbeat.

davidingilbert

Glennis - I would Google, Yahoo, and if you have to, scour the junk yards. There has to be one out there.
I remember about 2 years ago, the dealership I used to take my wife's Protege to busted the air filter box. I was not going to pay close to $300 for a new air filter box. I scoured the net, changed the names I was using in Google and Yahoo and eventually did find one.
I would also try and "join" a Protege forum. If anyone, a fellow Protege person would know how to help you.

BTW, I never did replace the box. Took it to a new dealer, didn't mention it and they have not said word number one to me.
Good luck.
Dave

autonomous

scour the junk yards
Agreed, they can be useful for finding parts. Which goes to prove that one person's junk is another's treasure.

glennisf

The shop finally located a Mazda fuel tank for my car. It is now repaired and back on the road.

FYI for other PR5 owners:
The gasket/seal between the fuel tank and fuel pump on my car failed due to rust and age. A hairline crack also developed in the top of the fuel pump. The shop replaced the gasket and fuel tank. They repaired the fuel pump. I am sharing this information because I was unable to find anyone else who had the same malfunction in their PR5. I hope this can help another owner.

autonomous

failed due to rust and age
Eventually rust and age will get us all. To help forestall that day, I have been rustproofing my car for the last 6 years using Krown.

mavswimmer

hello all, I drive a 2003 P5, last night was driving on gravel, having some fun sliding around turns...too much fun, and I think I threw a rod, not really sure, but my engine is making a loud knock and tap on regular intervals, not on and off, seems like everytime each cylinder cycles...tried to pull the spark plugs this morning, but I live on college campus away from my father's garage, so i didnt have the proper spark socket...anybody have any ideas? no fluid or oil leakin, dont think its transmission, sounds still occur in neutral....I was also thinking it might be a burnt valve, but sounds like every cylinder is doing it, so either all 16 valves which would probably make me cry...or a rod.... :confuse: :sick:

autonomous

driving on gravel ... and I think I threw a rod, not really sure, but my engine is making a loud knock and tap on regular intervals, not on and off, seems like everytime each cylinder cycles

Sorry, I don't see the connection between the gravel and the engine knock. Coincidence, perhaps? If you rev the motor does the knocking increase? Alternatively, can you see under the car to see if anything has been bent by debris? If the car is driveable, I'd bring it to a garage.

iamz

Could be that your timing belt jumped a notch. When was the belt last changed?

Mr_Shiftright

He might have over-revved it, although I would think the rev limiter would have kicked in.

But on extreme RPM, you can nick a valve with the piston head.

mavswimmer

I definitely was driving it hard, but not pushing the rpm's over 5.5k...i dont think its the timing belt, because i can hear the knock and taps coming directly from the engine block, i also think i fouled atleast1, maybe 2 spark plugs, because cylinders are not firing...plus the knock, yes, when rpm's increase the knock increases with them, thats why im wondering if its valve/piston/rod issues... :confuse: :sick:

mavswimmer

the car still runs and drives...but i just babied it back to the dorms and parked it, and until i take it in for estimate assesment and repair, im not going to start or drive it...it feels to me to be on the ragged edge :confuse: :sick:

iamz

When the timing is off, the valves will open and close at the wrong time which can mess with the fuel/air ratio and the compression of that mixture at the time of ignition. If it's off, the mixture won't burn completely or at all and fouled plugs will result. Have it towed in for repair. Don't attempt to start the vehicle again. Good luck.

mavswimmer

what would i look for, if i was to go down to my car now and check for signs of timing belt malfunction? I did take one of the plastic pieces bolted onto the bottom of the car, because it was broken, im almost finished fiberglassing it back together, but maybe thats how a foreign object entered and disturbed the timing belt? :confuse: :sick:

iamz

There really would be nothing to visually see unfortunately. At this point your best bet is to have it towed to your dealer or service garage. I am told the P5 is a non-interference engine so there is a good chance nothing serious is damaged. If the belt did slip you're going to need a new one. The other belts might need changing also. You're looking at about $800 for everything (give or take a couple hundred).

iamz

Did you get it into the shop yet?

Countryham

I also have a P5 I bought 8 months age with 55k in terrific shape - the first time I ran it really hard, I had an incredible knock that sounded like the whole bottom end had fallen out. I took it to my mechanic the next day, and it showed a code for problem with cylinder #54- he replaced the plugs, and and it ran fine. The plug from cylinder #4 had the gap totally closed - how could this cause the bad knock? I thought the motor was toast. Then, last week while passing a car at high revs, it started missing and the check engine light came on - I took it back to the mechanic, and the same code -cylinder #4 -and again, the plug gap was almost completely closed. The mechanic feels the only way this happens is for something internal to be hitting the plug at high revs. What could it be? A piston or rod? I'm going to baby it for a while and sell it unless someone has a reasonable fix...

mavswimmer

This is a problem i also had with mine, cylinder4 and it would close the gap...basically how i fixed it, was buying some high dollar plugs, im for sure my plugs have closed gaps, i havn't taken my p5 to the shop yet, my dad would like to look at it, and he is returning to the country on wed...but basically, replacing a plug is not a big deal, might just be more compression occuring in the cylinder that should be happening at high revs...but my thinking is, it might be timing issues that cause this problem...because of the high revs...my view is, its a combination of both, maybe a timing check would be benificial...also like i said earlier the, the high dollar plugs seemed to have done very well...also when you pull your plugs check and see if the area ontop is all black, that would indicate you are running a very rich mixture in that cylinder....just some food for thought, maybe some worthwhile things to mention to your mechanic...

iamz

I can't fathom a guess as to why the gap of your sparkplugs is closing in cylinder 4 of your engines. That is frankly, scary. I'm not sure how far the piston clears the spark plug in normal operation but I would not think it would be within many 10s of thousands. And I would think it unlikely to have enough carbon built up on the piston head to make contact. Good luck to the both of you.

pete79

I keep reading the same answer over and over again... :mad: "the air conditioner compressor is going to run to remove moisture from the car's interior that otherwise would cause your windshield to fog up". Compressors DO NOT remove moisture. They condense gas!!! What condenses moisture is the cold coils running in the "evaporator" near the cabin's fan. But lets forget about this technical detail...

All these answers COULD be true if the air was recirculating (gizmo turned to take air from inside, not outside). But the fact is, at least with my Protege 2001 LX, that when you switch to "feet/windshield defrost" or "windshield defrost", the system AUTOMATICALLY takes air from outside. You CAN'T control that (only "feet" mode, although turning on the AC, allows you to turn back to "take air from inside" mode). The ONLY things this does are 1: Removes moisture from the OUTSIDE air before pushing it into the car (dry air is mixed with humid air in the cabin); 2: it eats more gas; 3: makes it very hard to set a comfortable temperature in the car during mild temperatures, which I get a lot in Quebec.

Now my questions:
1.Why did Mazda take away our FREEDOM of using AC as we wish????
2. Is there a way to turn off the compressor and avoid gas consumption/cold air production???? (removing the AC fuse from the car's fuse panel turns off all the controls for heating/fan... )

ANYBODY?????

Thanks!

iamz

You could start here;

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea5f4d/957!keywords=allin%3Amsgte- xt%20limit%3A.eea5f4d%20AC%20defroster#957

mavswimmer

it does help remove moisture, because the air is completely 0% humidity when the A/C is on...as to the carbon built up on the spark plug, its cylinder4 that is always black...2is tan(optimal fuel/air burn) and 3, and 4 are white...seen it multiple times from pulling the plugs, no exceptions...my thinking is, each injector is putting in different amounts of fuel/air mixture...any thoughts on why? is this a problem? worht getting looked at? might be worthwhile for everyone to check their plugs who's reading this, to make sure the two of us didn't buy pig-in-the-poke mazda's.....