You recall the high pitched sound you reported? It just happened to me for the second time. Like the first time I stopped the engine and restarted it to have it disappear. I have now covered some 3800 miles with the car. On this occasion the sound was not so intense as the first time though. Don't know yet what is causing it. Do you have an update?
OK anyone who can help with this. I have the 2003 Kia Sedona EX model. I have had it for about 6 weeks, put 888 miles on it & I kept hearing this weird humming noise when I was driving. It happened sporadically. Then today, I left a store, started it up & as I went down the road it happened again only REALLY loud this time. I am taking it in for service tomorrow, but has anyone else had this??? I feel like maybe I made a mistake buying this. I has a 1994 Nissan Quest & never had one problem!
hi i own a sedona ex 03 and have had it for 2 weeks and i brought it in to the dealer because the third row seats are making a rattle and loud squeaky noise when i am driving. The dealer lubricated the seat parts but now two days later it is back. Has anyone had this problem and what was the fix for it. please let me know thanks......
I am pretty sure the noise you are referring to is the same moosek and myself reported earlier. See the previous messages #191, #193 & #210.
The car seems to be functioning correctly when it appears but I am worried too. Haven’t got an answer yet. Whenever you get back from the Dealer and they have sorted out the problem please let us know by posting a message. Thanks!
I just had this happen again this morning! Haven't had a problem since my original experience with this about 10 days ago. I came to peruse this board in preparation to call the dealer.
This morning's incident went like this: I had just left my house and was taking my 4yo to preschool. I had not left the neighborhood and had only traveled about 1 mile. Was turning out of our neighborhood (uncontrolled intersection onto a busy street) after making the turn proceeded about a block when I noticed the noise, also noticed I lost a significant amount of braking power. I could still brake and could still stop the car but had to push the pedal alllll the way to the floor to do it. Also noticed the noise was constant but worsened as the brake pedal was depressed. Only thing I could do was stop dead in the middle of the street and turn the car off and restart. It was fine after that.
I spent some time in my parking garage at work trying to duplicate this problem. Even tried slamming on the brakes - nope - couldn't get it to do it. In both of my incidents I was in residential neighborhoods at uncontrolled intersections - stopped to "look both ways" then inching forward, then stopping again as I saw an approaching vehicle, then proceeding after it passed. I was going less than 5mph in both cases. THis is a driving scenario I'm in more times than I can count in one day - I'm am VERY worried.
PLEASE - post here after you've talked to or visited your dealer - also, be sure to update here if it happens again. I'll let you know what my dealer does/says.
An update to my previous post - found this on the NHTSA recall web site - I don't know if it is the cause of my problem but, it is important information and want all '03 Sedona owners to know:
Make: KIA Model: SEDONA Year: 2003 Recall Number: 03V158000 Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THERE WAS A PROGRAMMING ERROR IN THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS) ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE LOGIC. THE PROGRAMMING ERROR COULD CAUSE REDUCED BRAKING FORCE AT SPEEDS BELOW 25 MPH, WHICH COULD RESULT IN INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCES. Consequence: SUCH INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCES COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE CONTROL MODULE. KIA HAS NOT YET PROVIDED AN OWNER NOTIFICATION SCHEDULE. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT KIA AT 1-800-222-5500. Notes: CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
I am 100% sure the problem we are experiencing is exactly the one described in the recall. I will go to my Dealer this evening and talk about the problem. I hope they are as good informed as you people are in the U.S. Unfortunately I am dealing with a country where safety of persons is not a major concern.
I will bring a print of the NHTSA recall data taken from their website with me in case they do not know the issue (yet). Hopefully somebody at their place will understand the English language though. That is not so obvious over here (Italy).
Well I took it to the dealer & they told me exactly what you posted about the reprogramming error, so they reprogrammed the ABS. The brakes feel perfectly fine. Later on I was driving again & heard the noise, it was as distinctive & loud as the day before, but there definitely is a noise. The dealer said to make a journal of the noise, such as what speed I was going, if I was on the brake or gas, highway or local etc...They told me they inspected everything & the van is deemed safe to drive. As far as this noise, I don't know what to do, a brand new van should not make any funny noises!! Please keep me posted on the situation. Thanks!
I spoke to two dealers in my area about this issue. One was unwilling to really help me at all. Guess I know I won't be talking to them again anytime soon! The other was VERY responsive. THey were unaware of the recall but took the info from me and researched it themselves. They spoke directly to Kia about it and confirmed the problem, the solution, and that my vehicle is one of the one's involved. He seemed a little miffed that the manufacturer hadn't notified the dealer yet of the recall. He said that it's a pretty easy fix to reprogram the ABS system control and doesn't take very long. I'm taking it in tomorrow - let's hope this does the trick!
item: FORD printed the DOOR STICKER PRESSURE of the FORD EXPLORER to be 28 PSI. The Tire manufacturer recommended 35 PSI due to the HEAVY NATURE of the EXPLORER and the TYPICAL LOADS people put in them. Most people and FORD DEalers went with the 28 PSI. RESULT - People died when the tires exploded due to " low air pressure"
item: most truck tire ( which the KUMHO tire is ) are anywhere from 50 PSI up to 100 PSI. RESULT - they can carry heavier loads.
item: you bicycle in the garage probably has 90 PSI or 75 PSI tires on it right now! RESULT- the small tire supports a 200 lb man.
item :KIA makes military vehicles , city BUSES , and RV motorhomes. RESULT - They know what type of tire to put on a van that has a curb weight of 4700 lbs UNLOADED !!!. You are " allowed to add up to an additional 1100 LBS !!!*** to your Kia Sedona. Do the math people. That is a 5800 lb vehicle now. A mini van ?? Not Really! AND-AND-AND the Sedona is also rated to TOW a 3500 lb trailer.
I just returned from a 200 mile interstate trip at 75-85 MPH and got 23 MPG on REGULAR GAS. I know from experience with premium I have gotten 25-26 at slower speeds.
SO EVERYBODY - raise your tires up to higher pressure if you have the KUMHO Truck tire. Try 40 PSI for sure and enjoy you improve performance.
I have had mine at the side wall pressure now since last year and have about 10,000 mile on at that pressure. I check my tires weekly and they are doing wonderful.
So lets live a little and look at the science of a truck tire and not burn these tires out with low pressure as if they are just a cheap passenger car tire.
Ford Explorers notwithstanding, I go by the manufacturer's recommendation. You may get a little better mpg with a higher inflation but I bet you'll wear the center of your tires out faster, so that's a false economy. Plus your ride will suffer.
Greetings all, We just got our new 2003 EX. So far we've put 399 miles on it and we're averaging 11.1 mpg in town! That's a far cry from the 21/26 advertised for a 3.5 liter engine! This is the first "brand new" car we've owned, so my question is, "Is this normal, and when will the mileage start improving?" I certainly hope it gets better! Other than that we really like the car. We got this Sedona to replace our worn out 95 Ford Windstar.
Mike track down my earlier posts and I am sure you can start raising your milage at once.
The only time I got as bad as you was during the weather here in Western NY when we had days on end of -10 , -20 deg F temperature. At those temps , when you run the Windshield fan you tend to lose milage due to the A/C compressor running too. Note: in the owners manual there is a trick to disable the cold weather running of the A/C unit. You might need to do that if you live in a really cold area.
Also , raise you tire pressure some. We are debating here , if I am full of baloney , but I raised mine to the 40 PSI shown on the SIDEWALL of the Kumho Tire.
Make sure you have a KUMHO truck tire on the van.
If you hve regular tires , just raise the pressure to 35 PSI.
This will help a lot.
And of course make sure you are using the OVERDRIVE button correctly.
When the light on the dash is LIGHTED you are buring more gas.
I went to the dealer yesterday evening and they confirmed that the ABS reprogramming has to be done on mine as well. They just received the bulletin 2 days ago. It is not a real recall as it should be performed when coming in for ordinary maintenance. Anyway I am taking it in this evening and it should require not more than 10 minutes.
I will keep you informed about the results. Worries me a bit that jondawn61 still has this noise, even after the work done. Hmmmm....
Furthermore I must apologize for having had so much bad thoughts about the country which is my host. Unfortunately I've had quite some experiences... But I must say that the dealer seems to be professional and I like the attitude of the mechanics.
The proper tire pressure is what is printed on the vehicle placard. What is on the sidewall is the maximum the tire is rated for and has to be printed there per government regulations. IT IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION BY THE TIRE MANUFACTURER!
WRT Ford / Firestone issue. The real discussion was over "reserve load capacity" - the difference between what maximum load the tire is expected to carry (known as the Gross Axle Weight rating - GAWR, for short) and the load rating for the tire at the specified inflation pressure.
The GAWR is calculated on fully loaded vehicles - passengers and luggage. You can sometimes find it on the placard.
Ford specified 26 psi (not 28). Firestone argued that there were 2 issues here. 1) No reserve and 2) knowing that people don't check their pressures like they should, the pressure specified ought to include a "fudge factor".
Truck tires: There are 2 ways to get load carrying capacities. 1) Lots of air volume (large tires) or 2) high inflation pressures. Using high inflation pressures is more economical because 1) there is less material used in the tire so it costs less, 2) the higher pressure gives better tire wear, and 3) higher pressures gives better rolling resistance, and therefore, better fuel economy. For commercial vehicles, ride is not an issue, but costs are!
Bicycle tires: Again, load capacity is a function of tire size and inflation pressure. The primary reason bicycles use high pressures is for rolling resistance.
Having said all that, I am an advocate to using 3 to 5 psi above the placard. I do it because I prefer a crisper steering response. I also get better fuel economy, better tire wear, better wet traction, better snow traction, and only give up a bit of ride harshness.
You could get a second opinion from an independent mechanic who will hopefully say that the engine problem is a design fault/factory error/whatever and that the problem would have occurred regardless of whether all the oil changes had been done or not.
Did you keep a log of gas fill-ups and/or tire rotations that you may have also noted oil changes in? Did you get the oil changed at a quick lube place - maybe they kept records in their computers?
A side(wall) issue but if you plan on towing to Kia's published spec you probably need to deduct the interior payload from the loaded weight of the trailer. You can't put the weight both inside and outside so your actual towing capacity with a full load of passengers and luggage (in the van) will be around 2500 lbs, maybe less.
Also, if you are going to tow with a Sedona you should really look into whether the stock tires are adequate. Tow tires need to have stiffer sidewalls than are supplied with most minivans. I don't know if the Sedona tires are adequate, but I'll be looking at them tomorrow.
That disclaimer "when properly equipped" is very significant. Both car dealers and trailer sales people can be woefully underinformed about safe trailering limits, which MIGHT include different tire pressures for fully-laden vehicles as opposed to normal service. The information should be spelled out in the Sedona owner's manual, but I have to say that I found it very hard to get unambiguous statements from Chrysler for the Dodge T&C Minivan a few years back.
Typically, from that 3500lbs you must deduct the following:
- minivan payload (passengers and luggage) - unladen trailer weight - trailer payload weight(including consumables such as propane and water and racked items such as bikes and canoes.)
It's amazing how fast this can add up. A 12-foot box Jayco popup trailer (fully loaded) is probably the limit for a Sedona with 5 passengers and luggage. Many small camper trailers will put you over the limit if you get the GVWR math wrong.
The only real way to know is to find a local weigh station and check what you really are pulling.
There are other requirements, such as installing an tranny oil cooler and figuring out whether you can get by with surge braking as opposed to electric brakes. Expect to go through pads and rotors if you make the wrong choice.
It's easy to get trailers going, it's stopping them that is the trick, and that's where tires, pressures, and brakes all come into play. When towing You certainaly dont want to reduce your braking and handling ability by over-inflating the tires.
It pays to get a copy of the owner's manual in advance - this stuff is NOT in the marketing blurb.
I noticed that the stock KIA SEDONA comes with a flat plate engine oil cooler behind the grill.
there also appears to be a seperate transmission cooler. I was pretty impressed by the engine oil cooler since I have never seen one on a stock vehicle and only at the races or car shows.
I also was impressed it is the rugged style that does not get easily punctured like the after market coolers sold at Pep Boys for $ 30.
That is impressive indeed. It certainly sounds as if Kia has anticipated real-world trailering requirements. Manufacturers usually just install a hitch and leave the poor customer to discover the additional cooling requirements.
Has anybody had 2002 EX Sendona 30000 miles maintenance performed? If so, can you give me the approx. cost? Local dealer quoted my wife $600 to do this schedule maintenance, yet Edmunds.com came up with a cost of approx. $360 (parts & labor). I have seen same dealer produced brochure listing this maintenance for about same as what Edmunds listed. I think dealer is trying to pull one over on my wife. I'll be calling them myself tomorrow to see if I get same story. Sure does seem like alot to do a basic tune up.
what their service covers. Chances are they are adding on things that they "recommend" that are not required by the manufacturer. All those items are profit items only. The manufacturer will list what items are covered in the 30,000 mile service, that will be all you need to do.
the main things would have to be 1.) Drain and refill transmisison- this is reccomended in the manual every 10,000 miles. The fluid costs $ 5 a quart. It takes about 7 quarts.
2.) Oil change $ 20
3.) Air Filter
4.) tighten parking brake.
That is about all i think you would need from the book. They are not going to need to do plugs or wires. There is no ""Tuneup"
If you check engine light is OFF they would not need to do a diagnostic.
Okay, we *just* bought our Sedona yesterday. My husband took it to work last night, where he's a security guard at a construction site. Here in Dallas, we had major thunderstorms all night long. For a while, he sat inside the building that is being built, where he could park the van out of the rain. When he finally drove out of the shelter to leave early this morning, the problems started. After 10 minutes, water started pouring off the overhead console. It fried the clock, and ran down the center panel (radio, A/C controls, etc). He put our little trash can up on the pull out cupholder to help catch the water, and pulled the towel out from under one of the kids' car seats to soak up the water. (His cell phone and pager also got wet, and the phone appears to not be working now) The van has a moonroof, and we do not know if the rain came in through there, or through a leaky seal or something else.
After a few more minutes of driving, with his arm resting on the driver's side door... he was noticing that his arm felt wet. At first he thought he'd gotten wet when he briefly got out of the van to lock the gate. Then he saw water drips from the window. He pushed the window button to make sure it was completely closed, but every so often a drop or two of water hit his arm.
Needless to say, we will be taking the van back to the dealer today. Fortunately, we have not actually signed a contract yet. We agreed on a price for the van and our trade in, and signed that sheet saying the price would be acceptable. But they didn't work up the contract yet, since they were waiting to find out what kind of financing they could come up with to beat our outside financing. We didnt' even hand them a check for a deposit or ANYTHING when we left. So, we have some leverage with them.
My questions are these: Would you ask for another van in place of this one, simply make them fix the leaks and replace the overhead console on this one and knock some more off the price for the headache, or walk away completely? I would really like a Kia, but if this is a common problem, I don't know that I will like that idea. TIA for any help!
I would insist on another van. These leaks can be hard to find and fix and it's also difficult to know what other electrical damage may have been done. Let this van become someone else's problem. Can't believe they let you drive it off without paying, seems very trusting to me.
To reply to Smulvey, the dealer is saying that they need to flush/replace coolant, replace plugs at $20 a piece(!!), etc. Manual says coolant to be replace 5 yrs or 60k miles. I think I will request that the dealer only do the require maintenance/inspections as per the owners manual. Thanks for your input.
Easy enough to duplicate by using a hose or car wash if they claim you left sunroof open (you didn't did you?) Rain from "window" was probably water from the headliner (overhead material) dripping onto his arm. If you place your hand on headliner, you'll probably find it is soaked, if it got as much H20 into it as you said.
If someone left the sunroof open and the Rain-God decided to bless the day with torrential rains, can we claim "flood damage" from the insurance company ?
Not that it happened .. The closest I came to seeing this was when a friend of mine drove thru' the car wash with an open window and shut off the car once inside .. hehe .. He could not get the "power windows" up !! By the time he turned over the ignition and put the window glass up, his Altima has got plenty of soap on the inside. Luckily I was on the passenger side !! Ever since I have been extra careful when entering the carwash with my car - Double check everything and NOT shut off the car :-)
Well, we just signed the contract on a Sedona last night. The dealer was GREAT about the leak, and didn't try to stick us with the vehicle if we didnt' want it. They did ask my husband if he might have left the roof open a bit, but he said no (we had not even opened it!), and they left it at that.
I was also impressed that when we signed the papers, there were NO fees tacked on to it, other than a $50 documentation fee. So, we got a van with ABS, moon roof and dealer added (but we didn't have to pay for) stripes down the sides for $19995. We got a decent interest rate on financing, considering our avg to slightly below avg credit rating (7.75% for 66 mths). I had definitely walked in there prepared for the worst after doing all the ressearch, but I will take all my business to this dealer in the future!
I am at about 31K miles. I have my oil changed at walmart. I change oil about every 5K miles.
Symptoms - bad noise. Oil pressure light coming on at idle.
I spent about a week finding my oil change recipts. Kia has agreed to change the engine out ASAP. I will have it next week. I have been suffering and driving my beloved 83 mustang convertiable.
It is encouraging to hear that so many sedona's are up and running great. My has been in the shop over five times since purchasing it in March 2002. It is a 2002. "Major electrical" problems which took three visits, two different dealer service centers and direct involvement by Kia rep. from California to "fix" Have also experienced "cracked" spark plugs, oil leak, poor air conditioning. Is in the shop now for the abs light coming on at low speed and loss of power steering after idling as well as some kind of connection between air conditioning and accelerator. The air blows soft or hard in relationship to speed. At this point not sure how any of this is related. Also, despite post on this board and others I have not recieved a recall notice regarding seat belt bolt nor been informed by dealer about bad strut plates. Maybe too much else wrong with my particular sedona to worry about those things. Seriously thinking about lemon law on this one. Anyone have any advice? Thanks
We are lucky that our dealer did a good job for us. They repainted both the hood and the rear hatch under warranty since they found rust under the grille. I'm pleased with the whole thing.
Sorry to hear of your experience. Mine has 20,000 miles on it. My production date was Jan 2002 and I bought it on April 2002. I do not have the ABS.
I am willing to bet some of your " problems" were created AFTER a techincian got inside the hood and had troubel getting to some things and re-installed parts he had to move to get at other parts.
This does happen and egos prevent people from admitting which mistakes they caused and which ones they corrected.
The Air Conditioning Hoses , Spark Plugs and a whole bunch of other things are just so close together I can really see a dealership guy breaking some of them during the process.
I had a terrible fight with a cadillac service department when they began charing me for " broken spark plug wires " when they broke them installing the new cam shaft and such from the warranty repairs being done when the camshaft , valves and rocker arms were shot to hell after 20,000 miles on a new cadillac.
Keep on fighting.
The Lemon Law could be helpful at getting total satisfaction. At least they will know you are serious.
The President of Kia is Peter Butterfield. You will find his address on the owners manual listed at IRVINE California.
Write hiim and tell him the " Kia CIrcle of Quality " is broken.
I am writing him each time my dealer does something goofy.
Only by keeping KIA employees focused on customer satisfaction can we force the KIA brand to mean something other then low price.
The dealers seek the lowest water level of service I am afraid.
they are stillusing the excuse " its a new model"
No matter what the circumstances , dealer personnel always have a trite explaination as to why they or the product are failing.
With the Cadillac it was " that is a engine that runs hot"
With my Ford Taurus brake failure at 8,000 miles it was " They all do that"
With my Saturn engine clattering at 19,000 miles it was " these small motors rattle"
I like to do my own servicing. Anyone know what the "A/C air filter" is and where it is located on the vehicle? I haven't had it changed yet, and I suspect that I'm getting a stale odor in the cabin because of it. I've got 30K miles on the car with no troubles.
i have a sedona ex 03 with 1500 miles on it and i have a squeak that is coming from the very right rear between the window and the molding and it almost sounds like the window rubbing against the interior molding when i go over bumps. i thought originally it was the third row seat. if you sit in the way back right by the window when u go over bumps you hear the noise. it appears to go away if i push in on the plastic molding right below the bottom of the window. this noise appears to be something that does not happen on the left side rear. any thoughts from anyone what this might be or if they had this problem before........thanks in advance
Was told by the dealer yesterday that our A/C noise was a hose rubbing against the front quarterpanel. KIA is aware of the problem and is looking into a recall/fix. Doesn't affect the A/C (unless the hose rubs through), but the noise is fairly robust and irritating at low speed/stop signs. I might get up underneath and see if I can put some foam rubber on it to dampen it a bit while they search for the repair.
Overall, good experience on first service trip to the dealer in Richmond, Va. Put in Mobil 1 so will let you know if it makes a difference in mileage.
Sharon - yes I was part of those discussions, but I finally took it in yesterday to have a look. When I first came in the guy called Kia to find out their current policy and then he went a looked at how it was forming slightly on the sides of the chrome panel above the plate and then up and under the plate where the lights for the plate are. He quickly determined that it was something that was a manufacturing defect and WOULD be covered under warranty.
This is a KNOWN problem with the Sedona and anyone who receives problems from their dealer on this should take it to a higher level. I am scheduled to have it repainted on Wednesday of next week. I hope to get some touch-up paint too.
Apart from this issue - we are quite pleased with the van and its performance so far - 7 months and 8000 miles.
If you check the complaints page of the NHTSA site, there are a few transmission complaints about the 2002 Sedona. There are a number of electrical system complaints.
1.) transmission- I have 22,000 miles and there was a slight glitch when the car was cold , and i was accelerating away from a full stop at low power to maybe 30 mph , the shift from 1-2 was delayed , and the transmission seemed to be slipping. it only happened in october/november on saturday when teh car was cold and I was turning right at a particular stop sign. the delaer claims it is related to the transmisson intentionaly NOT shifting up to due " emmission profile in the software"
We shall see. If someting poops out we will know.
Remember - Kia recomends changin your fluid about every 15,000 miles , and you must use the correct " Diamond Star " rated fluid. It is sold at Kia dealers for $ 5 a quart. This is a fluid spec made by Mitsubushi. any Diamond Star spec fluid is acceptable.
2.) Rust problems- I am not seeing any rust issue. But my dealer did install the rear lic plate with the aluminum plate rubbing directly on the paint! I had to add some plastic tape to cushion it.
I've got a 2002 LX that I bought in August 2002 that now has 9000 miles on it. Since the first few weeks I've had it, I noticed the following:
1. When the engine is not fully warmed up, there is DEFINITE slippage/shift-hesitation occurring between upshifts from 2nd to 3rd gear.
2. Regardless of engine temperature, about 25% of the time the shift from 4th to 5th is very abrupt and almost jarring.
3. Regardless of engine temperature, about 50% of the time while driving if I move the shift lever from D to 3 or from 3 to 2, if I do not remove my foot from the accelerator and reapply the gas pedal, the downshift does NOT occur.
It hasn't been a "show stopper" for me yet, but I am anticipating that at the very least some adjustments may need to be made in the near future.
Comments
Steve, Host
I have now covered some 3800 miles with the car. On this occasion the sound was not so intense as the first time though. Don't know yet what is causing it.
Do you have an update?
thanks......
The car seems to be functioning correctly when it appears but I am worried too. Haven’t got an answer yet. Whenever you get back from the Dealer and they have sorted out the problem please let us know by posting a message. Thanks!
This morning's incident went like this: I had just left my house and was taking my 4yo to preschool. I had not left the neighborhood and had only traveled about 1 mile. Was turning out of our neighborhood (uncontrolled intersection onto a busy street) after making the turn proceeded about a block when I noticed the noise, also noticed I lost a significant amount of braking power. I could still brake and could still stop the car but had to push the pedal alllll the way to the floor to do it. Also noticed the noise was constant but worsened as the brake pedal was depressed. Only thing I could do was stop dead in the middle of the street and turn the car off and restart. It was fine after that.
I spent some time in my parking garage at work trying to duplicate this problem. Even tried slamming on the brakes - nope - couldn't get it to do it. In both of my incidents I was in residential neighborhoods at uncontrolled intersections - stopped to "look both ways" then inching forward, then stopping again as I saw an approaching vehicle, then proceeding after it passed. I was going less than 5mph in both cases. THis is a driving scenario I'm in more times than I can count in one day - I'm am VERY worried.
PLEASE - post here after you've talked to or visited your dealer - also, be sure to update here if it happens again. I'll let you know what my dealer does/says.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm
Make: KIA
Model: SEDONA
Year: 2003
Recall Number: 03V158000
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THERE WAS A PROGRAMMING ERROR IN THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS) ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE LOGIC. THE PROGRAMMING ERROR COULD CAUSE REDUCED BRAKING FORCE AT SPEEDS BELOW 25 MPH, WHICH COULD RESULT IN INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCES.
Consequence:
SUCH INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCES COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE CONTROL MODULE. KIA HAS NOT YET PROVIDED AN OWNER NOTIFICATION SCHEDULE. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT KIA AT 1-800-222-5500.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
I am 100% sure the problem we are experiencing is exactly the one described in the recall. I will go to my Dealer this evening and talk about the problem. I hope they are as good informed as you people are in the U.S. Unfortunately I am dealing with a country where safety of persons is not a major concern.
I will bring a print of the NHTSA recall data taken from their website with me in case they do not know the issue (yet). Hopefully somebody at their place will understand the English language though. That is not so obvious over here (Italy).
Thanks for your posting!
But here are some items to keep in mind:
item: FORD printed the DOOR STICKER PRESSURE of the FORD EXPLORER to be 28 PSI. The Tire manufacturer recommended 35 PSI due to the HEAVY NATURE of the EXPLORER and the TYPICAL LOADS people put in them. Most people and FORD DEalers went with the 28 PSI. RESULT - People died when the tires exploded due to " low air pressure"
item: most truck tire ( which the KUMHO tire is ) are anywhere from 50 PSI up to 100 PSI. RESULT - they can carry heavier loads.
item: you bicycle in the garage probably has 90 PSI or 75 PSI tires on it right now! RESULT- the small tire supports a 200 lb man.
item :KIA makes military vehicles , city BUSES , and RV motorhomes. RESULT - They know what type of tire to put on a van that has a curb weight of 4700 lbs UNLOADED !!!. You are " allowed to add up to an additional 1100 LBS !!!*** to your Kia Sedona. Do the math people. That is a 5800 lb vehicle now. A mini van ?? Not Really! AND-AND-AND the Sedona is also rated to TOW a 3500 lb trailer.
I just returned from a 200 mile interstate trip at 75-85 MPH and got 23 MPG on REGULAR GAS. I know from experience with premium I have gotten 25-26 at slower speeds.
SO EVERYBODY - raise your tires up to higher pressure if you have the KUMHO Truck tire. Try 40 PSI for sure and enjoy you improve performance.
I have had mine at the side wall pressure now since last year and have about 10,000 mile on at that pressure. I check my tires weekly and they are doing wonderful.
So lets live a little and look at the science of a truck tire and not burn these tires out with low pressure as if they are just a cheap passenger car tire.
Steve, Host
The only time I got as bad as you was during the weather here in Western NY when we had days on end of -10 , -20 deg F temperature. At those temps , when you run the Windshield fan you tend to lose milage due to the A/C compressor running too. Note: in the owners manual there is a trick to disable the cold weather running of the A/C unit. You might need to do that if you live in a really cold area.
Also , raise you tire pressure some.
We are debating here , if I am full of baloney , but I raised mine to the 40 PSI shown on the SIDEWALL of the Kumho Tire.
Make sure you have a KUMHO truck tire on the van.
If you hve regular tires , just raise the pressure to 35 PSI.
This will help a lot.
And of course make sure you are using the OVERDRIVE button correctly.
When the light on the dash is LIGHTED you are buring more gas.
I will keep you informed about the results. Worries me a bit that jondawn61 still has this noise, even after the work done. Hmmmm....
Furthermore I must apologize for having had so much bad thoughts about the country which is my host. Unfortunately I've had quite some experiences... But I must say that the dealer seems to be professional and I like the attitude of the mechanics.
The proper tire pressure is what is printed on the vehicle placard. What is on the sidewall is the maximum the tire is rated for and has to be printed there per government regulations. IT IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION BY THE TIRE MANUFACTURER!
WRT Ford / Firestone issue. The real discussion was over "reserve load capacity" - the difference between what maximum load the tire is expected to carry (known as the Gross Axle Weight rating - GAWR, for short) and the load rating for the tire at the specified inflation pressure.
The GAWR is calculated on fully loaded vehicles - passengers and luggage. You can sometimes find it on the placard.
Ford specified 26 psi (not 28). Firestone argued that there were 2 issues here. 1) No reserve and 2) knowing that people don't check their pressures like they should, the pressure specified ought to include a "fudge factor".
Truck tires: There are 2 ways to get load carrying capacities. 1) Lots of air volume (large tires) or 2) high inflation pressures. Using high inflation pressures is more economical because 1) there is less material used in the tire so it costs less, 2) the higher pressure gives better tire wear, and 3) higher pressures gives better rolling resistance, and therefore, better fuel economy. For commercial vehicles, ride is not an issue, but costs are!
Bicycle tires: Again, load capacity is a function of tire size and inflation pressure. The primary reason bicycles use high pressures is for rolling resistance.
Having said all that, I am an advocate to using 3 to 5 psi above the placard. I do it because I prefer a crisper steering response. I also get better fuel economy, better tire wear, better wet traction, better snow traction, and only give up a bit of ride harshness.
Hope this helps.
They leak all too often and they might not seal on the inside, which allows air to leak into the carcass, which may eventually lead to a separation.
None of the tire manufacturers approve of plugs and they will not honor warranties on tires with plugs.
Hope this helps.
They want all kind of oil change help. I have done many oil changes having probmes finding the reciepts. Any suggestions .
Did you keep a log of gas fill-ups and/or tire rotations that you may have also noted oil changes in? Did you get the oil changed at a quick lube place - maybe they kept records in their computers?
Good luck and please let us know what happens.
Steve, Host
It would be interesting to know.
What interval do you change your oil?
What type oil filter did you use. I understand the purolators meet the KIA spec for pressure relief and drainback , but FRAM for example does not.
Also what type of driving do you do ?
Did you notice a particular problem or symptom that caused you to take the van in for service?
regards,
smulvey
Also, if you are going to tow with a Sedona you should really look into whether the stock tires are adequate. Tow tires need to have stiffer sidewalls than are supplied with most minivans. I don't know if the Sedona tires are adequate, but I'll be looking at them tomorrow.
That disclaimer "when properly equipped" is very significant. Both car dealers and trailer sales people can be woefully underinformed about safe trailering limits, which MIGHT include different tire pressures for fully-laden vehicles as opposed to normal service. The information should be spelled out in the Sedona owner's manual, but I have to say that I found it very hard to get unambiguous statements from Chrysler for the Dodge T&C Minivan a few years back.
Typically, from that 3500lbs you must deduct the following:
- minivan payload (passengers and luggage)
- unladen trailer weight
- trailer payload weight(including consumables such as propane and water and racked items such as bikes and canoes.)
It's amazing how fast this can add up. A 12-foot box Jayco popup trailer (fully loaded) is probably the limit for a Sedona with 5 passengers and luggage. Many small camper trailers will put you over the limit if you get the GVWR math wrong.
The only real way to know is to find a local weigh station and check what you really are pulling.
There are other requirements, such as installing an tranny oil cooler and figuring out whether you can get by with surge braking as opposed to electric brakes. Expect to go through pads and rotors if you make the wrong choice.
It's easy to get trailers going, it's stopping them that is the trick, and that's where tires, pressures, and brakes all come into play. When towing You certainaly dont want to reduce your braking and handling ability by over-inflating the tires.
It pays to get a copy of the owner's manual in advance - this stuff is NOT in the marketing blurb.
see also:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/equipment/towing/Towing.pd- f
rgds
Wol (Currently in a V8 Jeep)
there also appears to be a seperate transmission cooler. I was pretty impressed by the engine oil cooler since I have never seen one on a stock vehicle and only at the races or car shows.
I also was impressed it is the rugged style that does not get easily punctured like the after market coolers sold at Pep Boys for $ 30.
Regards, sean
That is impressive indeed. It certainly sounds as if Kia has anticipated real-world trailering requirements. Manufacturers usually just install a hitch and leave the poor customer to discover the additional cooling requirements.
1.) Drain and refill transmisison- this is reccomended in the manual every 10,000 miles. The fluid costs $ 5 a quart. It takes about 7 quarts.
2.) Oil change $ 20
3.) Air Filter
4.) tighten parking brake.
That is about all i think you would need from the book. They are not going to need to do plugs or wires. There is no ""Tuneup"
If you check engine light is OFF they would not need to do a diagnostic.
good luck
After a few more minutes of driving, with his arm resting on the driver's side door... he was noticing that his arm felt wet. At first he thought he'd gotten wet when he briefly got out of the van to lock the gate. Then he saw water drips from the window. He pushed the window button to make sure it was completely closed, but every so often a drop or two of water hit his arm.
Needless to say, we will be taking the van back to the dealer today. Fortunately, we have not actually signed a contract yet. We agreed on a price for the van and our trade in, and signed that sheet saying the price would be acceptable. But they didn't work up the contract yet, since they were waiting to find out what kind of financing they could come up with to beat our outside financing. We didnt' even hand them a check for a deposit or ANYTHING when we left. So, we have some leverage with them.
My questions are these: Would you ask for another van in place of this one, simply make them fix the leaks and replace the overhead console on this one and knock some more off the price for the headache, or walk away completely? I would really like a Kia, but if this is a common problem, I don't know that I will like that idea. TIA for any help!
Kia's own documents do not reccomend those steps at your milage.
which dealer are you at?
My dealer had a preprinted sheet that they hadned out when we bought the car , and clearly who ever developed it never read the Kia documentation.
Don't take the leakers.
Leakers can have numerous issues that the dealer can't really fix well on the lot.
The Kia Zone rep can take the van back to Irvine and let the engineers there disassemble it.
Also- determine if any of the features were " dealer installed"
Also- before you sign the contract, take the next one on a " TEST DRIVE" to a Automatic Car Wash!
We're just off to pick ours up. I hope it rains!
Definately concur to take another van.
Not that it happened .. The closest I came to seeing this was when a friend of mine drove thru' the car wash with an open window and shut off the car once inside .. hehe .. He could not get the "power windows" up !! By the time he turned over the ignition and put the window glass up, his Altima has got plenty of soap on the inside. Luckily I was on the passenger side !! Ever since I have been extra careful when entering the carwash with my car - Double check everything and NOT shut off the car :-)
I was also impressed that when we signed the papers, there were NO fees tacked on to it, other than a $50 documentation fee. So, we got a van with ABS, moon roof and dealer added (but we didn't have to pay for) stripes down the sides for $19995. We got a decent interest rate on financing, considering our avg to slightly below avg credit rating (7.75% for 66 mths). I had definitely walked in there prepared for the worst after doing all the ressearch, but I will take all my business to this dealer in the future!
Symptoms - bad noise. Oil pressure light coming on at idle.
I spent about a week finding my oil change recipts. Kia has agreed to change the engine out ASAP. I will have it next week. I have been suffering and driving my beloved 83 mustang convertiable.
Charles
Mine has 20,000 miles on it.
My production date was Jan 2002 and I bought it on April 2002.
I do not have the ABS.
I am willing to bet some of your " problems" were created AFTER a techincian got inside the hood and had troubel getting to some things and re-installed parts he had to move to get at other parts.
This does happen and egos prevent people from admitting which mistakes they caused and which ones they corrected.
The Air Conditioning Hoses , Spark Plugs and a whole bunch of other things are just so close together I can really see a dealership guy breaking some of them during the process.
I had a terrible fight with a cadillac service department when they began charing me for " broken spark plug wires " when they broke them installing the new cam shaft and such from the warranty repairs being done when the camshaft , valves and rocker arms were shot to hell after 20,000 miles on a new cadillac.
Keep on fighting.
The Lemon Law could be helpful at getting total satisfaction. At least they will know you are serious.
The President of Kia is Peter Butterfield.
You will find his address on the owners manual listed at IRVINE California.
Write hiim and tell him the " Kia CIrcle of Quality " is broken.
I am writing him each time my dealer does something goofy.
Only by keeping KIA employees focused on customer satisfaction can we force the KIA brand to mean something other then low price.
The dealers seek the lowest water level of service I am afraid.
they are stillusing the excuse " its a new model"
No matter what the circumstances , dealer personnel always have a trite explaination as to why they or the product are failing.
With the Cadillac it was " that is a engine that runs hot"
With my Ford Taurus brake failure at 8,000 miles it was " They all do that"
With my Saturn engine clattering at 19,000 miles it was " these small motors rattle"
Was told by the dealer yesterday that our A/C noise was a hose rubbing against the front quarterpanel. KIA is aware of the problem and is looking into a recall/fix. Doesn't affect the A/C (unless the hose rubs through), but the noise is fairly robust and irritating at low speed/stop signs. I might get up underneath and see if I can put some foam rubber on it to dampen it a bit while they search for the repair.
Overall, good experience on first service trip to the dealer in Richmond, Va. Put in Mobil 1 so will let you know if it makes a difference in mileage.
This is a KNOWN problem with the Sedona and anyone who receives problems from their dealer on this should take it to a higher level. I am scheduled to have it repainted on Wednesday of next week. I hope to get some touch-up paint too.
Apart from this issue - we are quite pleased with the van and its performance so far - 7 months and 8000 miles.
Steve, Host
It seems that people who show such concern over the accuracy of other people's data have an obligation to provide correct information themselves.
We shall see. If someting poops out we will know.
Remember - Kia recomends changin your fluid about every 15,000 miles , and you must use the correct " Diamond Star " rated fluid. It is sold at Kia dealers for $ 5 a quart. This is a fluid spec made by Mitsubushi. any Diamond Star spec fluid is acceptable.
2.) Rust problems- I am not seeing any rust issue. But my dealer did install the rear lic plate with the aluminum plate rubbing directly on the paint! I had to add some plastic tape to cushion it.
Brakes , Enginer Power and handling are all good.
1. When the engine is not fully warmed up, there is DEFINITE slippage/shift-hesitation occurring between upshifts from 2nd to 3rd gear.
2. Regardless of engine temperature, about 25% of the time the shift from 4th to 5th is very abrupt and almost jarring.
3. Regardless of engine temperature, about 50% of the time while driving if I move the shift lever from D to 3 or from 3 to 2, if I do not remove my foot from the accelerator and reapply the gas pedal, the downshift does NOT occur.
It hasn't been a "show stopper" for me yet, but I am anticipating that at the very least some adjustments may need to be made in the near future.