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Chrysler 300 Alignment Issues

mikec1mikec1 Posts: 7
edited June 2014 in Chrysler
I now have 700 miles on my 300C. Last week my car was serviced for the right pull problem. Following alignment and switching tires left to right, it is better, but not fixed. I would like to know more about the cam bolts TSB refered to in other posts here. I have experienced the sticky outside temp bug.

I am also noticing frequent shifts between 4th & 5th when cruising between 45 and 60 mph. I have thought about just keeping it in 4th when driving local roads, but don't know what the long-term effects would be bedsides worse gas mileage.

The one thing the 300C transmission is missing is an electronic lock out on the quick shifter. I tend to drive with my hand on the stick and have inadvertently pullled it left and downshifted around turns without realizing it until rpm's run up when accelerating.

Beyond the right pull and shifting back and forth matters, the 300C is an incredible rocket. I have always wanted a hemi, and could not have hoped for one in a better package than the 300C. My most recent toy was a cherry 70 Olds 442 Convertible, and to tell you the truth I love cruising the 300C much, much more.
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Comments

  • kinglabkinglab Posts: 25
    Car pulls to the right. Chrysler dos not have an answer or a TSB. Or at least they have not told anyone. The solution is and will be to tell anyone who asks that this new 300 is cool looking but cheap finish, and oh yeah, it's the same old chrysler. Buy a Lexus, Infiniti, a Toyota, etc
  • 300c300c Posts: 11
    Check TSB 0200304 being issued regarding pulling problem.
  • kinglabkinglab Posts: 25
    Thank you in advance. I have not seen this TSB anywhere. Can I ask where you got it?
  • docmark1docmark1 Posts: 4
    I'm having the same pull to the right problem with only 300 mi. Haven't gone back to the dealer yet, but would like to get as info as possible before I do and they tell me it Nothing" or Its just breking in" blah blah blah.. I'm new to the message board, where do I find TSB 0200304.

    Thanks
  • 300c300c Posts: 11
    Contact your service mgr.

    I believe it was dated 5/25 /04.
  • catercater Posts: 11
    I also have a slight pull to the right on a 300 ;)
  • kinglabkinglab Posts: 25
    The TSB is real. The typical Chrysler problem however is; First Chrysler denied the problem. Blamed it on road crown, air pressure etc. Now that the public pressure got to them, they admit it. My local 5 star minus the 5 did not have the TSB. I faxed it to him. Of course the bolt kit is on NATIONAL backorder already. Figures. And when this kit comes in, the dealer said they will need all day to install two cam bolts, rock the front cradle a bit and re torque the bolts, and align it. All day! Next time, I am going back to the Lexus dealer for a car. It's the same old Chrysler
  • jlmjlm Posts: 8
    same issue here. have about 1500 miles on my 300, dealership had the car for 8 days, claims to of tried everything. the TSB out there was useless, it did no good. they even had a regional rep come in the area (charlotte, nc) and still no fix. i took the car today because i honestly feel like the dealership exhausted all their options, but i'll give it a few days. ride home was very annoying veered right the entire time, just like when i brought it in, service manager's response was these cars are very sensitive and any flaw in the road will cause a veer. i'll give it a few more days before i take it in again. a brand new 30+k auto should not have an issue like this.
  • texas bobtexas bob Posts: 5
    I have a copy of the TSB; all 300's built before April 25, 2004 have the pull problem. Don't let your dealer blame it on something else. Time allowance in the TSB for completion of the fix is 1.7 hours, they really don't need a full day or longer. Again, it's TSB 02-003-04 dated May 25, 2004
  • arnoldwarnoldw Posts: 28
    NOT all 300s built before apr 25 have pull. TSB states drive the car on a FLAT road. IF the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. My 300c was built apr 17...steers great. Test drove 2 other 300s before purchase and they were fine also.
  • jlmjlm Posts: 8
    thanks for the info, my questions is then why does the car not pull to the left at times, not every road is crowned on the right side. i have driven on the flatest streets, and the pull is always to the right, i have even gone on the oppposite side of the road , where the the crown of the road is on the left side , and it still pulls right.
  • arnoldwarnoldw Posts: 28
    Sure glad i've got one of the good ones. You'd think it would be a simple alignment to correct the problem. Hope they find a fix for your's and others soon so you can enjoy it like me! I wonder if a lot of these cars are like this?
  • mikec1mikec1 Posts: 7
    My 300C was manufactured on May 5th and has the correct cam alignment bolts, but still pulls right. There are however new alignment specs. I will be taking it in to have it adjusted and post results. It was previously aligned under the pre-cam bolt change specs.
  • 300hemifl300hemifl Posts: 21
    I bought my 300c on April 27th. So far, I've had no problems with pulling. Car has been pretty good (knock on wood). A/C could blow colder air from the get-go, and especially from the back vents. Also, my black exterior is a pain to keep clean (of course), but my light carpets are even more of a bit*h. I may order dark mats. Other than that, very happy.
  • jeepjeep Posts: 86
    Funny, mine was built on May 4th and I don't have any pulling problems. I wonder why some cars do and some don't. Do you have any ideas?
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    The variables in assembling a new car are numerous. Parts, workers, etc, are not 100% consistent. This is especially true for new models. The odds are still in your favor that most will experience few problems but when you're slapping together thousands of vehicles, stuff happens. Those who wanted the first issues of the 300 will serve those who waited a year or two by providing the trouble shooting necessary to minimize the headache potential in these cars.
  • mikec1mikec1 Posts: 7
    Regarding the right pull, I noticed it at about 10 miles on the odometer. I do chalk much of it up to crown sensativity. There are however new alignment specs posted with the TSB that could lessen the pull if your 300C has the correct cam bolts and the production date is close to the changes made after April 25th. I will know sometime next week if the new specs matter.

    Regarding the comment about the shimmy on bumps, I noticed this too, and decided it occurs because the car is rear wheel drive, and most of us have not driven a rear wheel drive vehicle in a long time. The weight differential without the transmission over the front axle may have something to do with it as well. Weight balance is 50/50 over front and rear axles in the 300C providing superior traction when the ESP is engaged.

    I assure you that with the ESP on, this car is as stable as any when cornering on virtually any road condition. It is nearly impossible to lose contact with the pavement in drastic maneuvers. I do not notice shimmy at all now that I am comfortable with the feel and think it is more how the 300C transmits the road to the steering wheel than any kind of problem. I have suggested elsewhere that the 300C needs an adjustable suspension for sport or cruising modes. I could see where this would concern you unless you had a chance to put the car through the paces.
  • jay4traejay4trae Posts: 6
    Check the NHTSA site about our car. Turns out, all of the 300C's built in April have this problem.
  • jay4traejay4trae Posts: 6
    On the National Highway Traffic Safety Association website, it indicates that 260 Chrysler 300's were shipped that have the pulling to the right problem. Right now, there is no fix.
  • jeepjeep Posts: 86
    Where do you see that? It states that 260 vehicles were shipped with incorrect software in the PCM. Doesn't refer to pulling to the right.
  • jay4traejay4trae Posts: 6
    Sorry. First time user. I was replying to someone else about the PCM. Look at the comment in "complaints" about "steering." i was told the same thing at my delaership.
  • itshemiitshemi Posts: 32
    The dealer I've spoken with Chrysler of Alexandria, VA stated that that the cars that are candidate for the pull were build March and before. Dealer stated my card 17April04 was not one of them.

    For all current 300c owners my car is in for the hood latch broken, embarrassing situation showing folks 4 July car and could not close the hood, 200 miles from dealer and I had to us budgie cord to secure hood, also notified the dealer that I just received to recall letters D28 and D30, which they advised me they were going to correct.

    http://photos.yahoo.com/jlsy2001
  • jeepjeep Posts: 86
    What were the rcalls for? Please elaborate.
  • barry626barry626 Posts: 78
    D-30 is...

    Anyone else receive notice? I did today.

    Recall notice: Front Shoulder belt adjuster turning loop bolts.
    May not be properly tightened?
    May increase the risk of injury to front occupants.

    Ordered my 300c on 4/6, built 4/21, took delivery 4/29.
  • buckiebuckie Posts: 2
    brand new 300C, pulling to right, just like everybody else. cannot find TSB??? where to look? solution? Is Chrysler buying back this clunker or not? helppp....dealer completely unresponsive.
  • bjsohiobjsohio Posts: 69
    TSB 0200304. It involves new camber bolts. From what I've heard it fixes the pulling problem experienced on some (or most) early built 300s.
  • buckiebuckie Posts: 2
    hi. I have the number of the TSB, but when I go to the NHTSA web site, no such TSB for the 300C or 300 or Chrysler is listed. so, I can't find the actual content of that particular TSB. any idea where I can locate the actual document? thanks, buckie
  • hankchankc Posts: 12
    NUMBER: 02-003-04
    DATE: May 25, 2004

    SUBJECT:
    Right Lead

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.

    MODELS:
    2005 (LX) 300/Magnum

    NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 25, 2004 (MDH 0425XX).

    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.

    DIAGNOSIS:
    Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases. Vehicles built on or after April 25, 2004 already have the alignment biased and no further action should be required or taken by the dealer other than verifying the vehicle is set at the revised specifications listed in this bulletin.

    NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
    1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to the pressure stated on the door placard.
    2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.

    NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.

    SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
    NPN Alignment Equipment

    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT to set the wheel alignment to the specifications below.
     

    NUMBER: 02-003-04
    GROUP: Suspension
    DATE: May 25, 2004

    NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster to be -0.8 degree and no more than -1.3 degrees. That means you will have more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set in at +0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA. The adjustment bolts only provide about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car and the driver's side will move rearward in car.

    NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.

    REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS

    FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
    CAMBER - LEFT -0.1° -0.60° to +0.40°
    CAMBER - RIGHT -0.20° -0.70° to +0.30°
    Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.20° -0.30 to +0.60°
    CASTER - LEFT +10.30° +9.00° to +12.10°
    CASTER - RIGHT +11.10° +9.00° to +12.10°
    Cross-Caster (Maximum side-to-side difference) -0.80° -1.30 to -0.50°
    INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.15°
    TOTAL TOE** +0.20° 0.00° to +0.40°
    Maximum side-to-side difference 0.00° 0.06°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 328mm (12 15/16 in.) 318 to 338mm (12 1/2 to 13 3/8 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER* -0.75° -1.25° to -0.25°
    Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.00° -0.50 to 0.50°
    INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.25°

    02-003-04 -2-
    FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
    THRUST ANGLE 0.0° -0.50° to +0.50°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 296mm (11 5/8 in.) 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    Notes:
    Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values.
    * For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.
    ** TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally
    split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive
    toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out

    POLICY:
    Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

    TIME ALLOWANCE:
    Labor Operation No: Description Amount
    02-00-02-90 Set Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel 0.7 Hrs.
    02-00-01-91 Alignment Using Cradle Adjustment and Set
    Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel
    1.0 Hrs.

    FAILURE CODE:
    LM Leads Right
  • jlmjlm Posts: 8
    Chrysler bought back my 300 this week due to this issue. the dealer could not fix it, TSB was useless, it had no effect. dealer states they tried several different procedures, no luck on any.
  • dkrhardydkrhardy Posts: 134
    Bought it back? You sound very calm about the whole thing, did you make a profit? Break even? You are the 1st I've heard that actually got bought out. Many claim they are going to force that issue, but no one else has responded with an actual buyback.
  • mark_amark_a Posts: 22
    Here's something I read on another site

    Guys,

    While at Camp Jeep I met the new head of the LX program. He just finished heading up design on the new Grand Cherokee (which will be OUTSTANDING) and has been heading up LX stuff for about 2 weeks. He was telling us all kinds of stories about flogging Jeeps mercilessly and doing all kinds of crazy stuff with them. Exactly the kind of guy I want to talk to.

    Anyway, I ask him about the right pull and he told me the problem is, well, motor-heads. Apparently the suspension engineers were focused on performance and wouldn't notice or care about a crown sensitivity. He told me this is his number one customer issue and it will be corrected. My impression is that he is very focused on customer satsfaction.

    I asked about production tolerances etc and he said no, it was a design issue.

    He told me to expect a TSB with revised alignment specs after they test to be sure that there would not be new issues like excessive tire wear.

    I heard it from the horse's mouth. I guess we can all take a deep breath and wait for the TSB.
  • jeepjeep Posts: 86
    This is all well and good, except that if it was a design issue, we would all have the problem. Mine as well as others have not had this problem. How can that be explained?
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    I test drove two 300c's so far.

    The second one initially had a immediate and rather severe pull to the right . However, it had no pull for the remainder of a 30 minute test drive. I am positive, and I repeat positive, it was not due to road crown.

    I must say something that many of you may not like to hear. Even if this pull to the right is sometimes attributed to road crown,(and again I am sure that was not the case with me) there is a major problem with this car. No car should ever handle like that if road crown exists. I could have had a car accident, had I not been a good driver and concentrating on the road at that particular moment. I could see someone possibly having an accident if in that time frame they were not on top of their driving. All it would take would be one momentary lapse in concentration or your hand momentarily off the wheel and the car goes off the road, or maybe something worse. We all have had these moments. I would not trust this car, it could have a horribly deadly outcome.

    Has anyone else experienced this severe momentary pull to the right?

    P.S.

    There is a post somewhere in the forums about a car accident attributed to this problem. I think 300c owners should start a class action lawsuit and have Chrysler recall and fix this steering problem immediately. Please do not wait until more cars are out there on the road.
  • nmatsonnmatson Posts: 17
    It sounds to me like there are many people out there who are not used to driving a rear wheel drive with a european designed steering system.

    The 300C is a pleasure to drive (mine now has 3800 miles on her) - no you can't just sit there and have it drive you - you need to be alert to feel of the road and the car. I have been pleasurably surprised at the handling and road feel of the steering. For a big car, with lots of power it drives beautifully.

    I don't deny that there has been TSB issued for early build models to correct a pull but all the owners of the 300C that I have talked to agree that the car's handling is exceptional.

    Before you start talking class action law suite I think you might want to do some further driving in one of these cars. Even in your post you say it was a momentary pull which is far more indicative of road surface conditions than any fault of the car.
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    I currently drive a European car and have been for the last seven of my thirty-three years of driving many types of cars. When operating a motor vehicle I am very aware of the road and the cars around me. My driving skills are are exceptionally good.

    My point was not only that it was a momentary pull, but a very severe one. Again, if I had a lapse in concentration the wheel could have ripped out of my hands. No steering should ever react like that, European, American or Japanese.

    Chrysler should immediately fix this dangerous defect before it gets
    out of hand. The more cars out there the more the risk to the public.
    Unfortunately, as we have seen many times in corporate america, they look only at the hard numbers and react only when it is financially beneficial to them.

    Fix this issue and the 300c will be a great car for the money.
  • arnoldwarnoldw Posts: 28
    If it felt so dangerous WHY did you keep driving it for a half hour???
  • mark_amark_a Posts: 22
    Next time check to make sure the wheels are straight before you put it in drive.
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    As I have stated before, the car has great potential. You don't have this problem with your car, so to you it's a non issue. What if you were in the group who does?

    During my test drive it only happened once. Only after reading other posts about steering problems did I understand what I had experienced.

    All cars have their issues, however steering is a major concern.
    There is no way I would buy a car that has a steering problem.

    Chrysler needs to be honest about this and fix it right away.
  • arnoldwarnoldw Posts: 28
    So what do you think caused it? How fast were you going? Was the road flat or bumpy ? Sticky caliper? Could you duplicate it if you went down the same route?
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    I don't know what caused it to happen. Road was well paved, straight, no bank or grade to it. It happened real quick. and then after recovery it did not happen again. By the way, I also noticed a steering wheel shimmy over forty MPH if you hit rough spots or cracks in the road. Maybe this has something to do with the pull to the right steering problem. The same steering wheel shimmy happened on my first test drive.

    The rest of the drive was impressive. Car handles real well, very quiet, roomy interior and lots of power. I do have a dislike for the autostick. I drive an audi and the tiptronic is much more driver friendly. When engaged you can immediately disengage back into drive by moving the shifter back into the main drive slot. Autostick makes you hold the stick in position until it runs through all the gears and then back into drive. This does not allow shifting to be responsive when you need it. With tiptronic I can immediately shift up and down and go back into drive without having to think about it. With autostick you have to keep an eye on the gear readout when trying to go back into drive. I mostly use my tiptronic to decelerate my car or to hold a gear, then I pop it back into drive. It's a great tool to have. If I'm wrong about autostick please let me know. The salesman did not know how to use it.

    Fix the steering, improve the auto stick, add on all wheel drive and it will be an even better car. I'll buy one too.
  • arnoldwarnoldw Posts: 28
    Jeqq, thanks for the reply. I think with AWD the 300 steering would be less sensitive by having all four wheels pulling. The autostick will downshift to the lowest gear for acceleration if you hold it in - for about 2 sec. Same for upshifts, hold it in + and it'll go back to "D" without having to toggle the shifter.
  • Just purchased a 300touring. Love the car, but immediately noticed right pull. On closer inspection, I found both front springs were taggede with some kind of identification stickers from the factory. I am returning to the dealer tomorrow and am hopeful that this can be fixed...is anyone aware of what the tags mean and has anyone had persistent problems or have they been able to fix it?
  • Did the pulling resolve?
  • chrome58chrome58 Posts: 10
    My 300C was manufactured in March, and when I bought it off the lot in June, everything was fine. The pull became extremely evident after about 1000 miles rolled by. The first time the dealership tried to fix it strictly by the TSB, except for the camber bolts. It made a difference, but I still felt the pull. I took it in again at its first service and told them it was still there. The dealership was excellent, and they never outright said that I was just being overly sensitive to road-crown behavior. They kept it for two days and adjusted the cradle several times, did several alignments, and adjusted the Caster, (which seemed to be the biggest culprit), and then adjusted everything so the steering wheel was dead-centered. They kept adjusting and doing road tests until it was absolutely perfect. I can't believe how good of a job they did. It drives like it's on rails! After hearing about everyone else's troubles, I didn't think it could be done.
  • Chrome58, I'm trying to help a neighbor get his 300 sorted out. His dealer would like to know who your delaer was that fixed your car so they could contact them for help. Everything tried so far has been unsuccessful
  • chrome58chrome58 Posts: 10
    I got it fixed at Metro Chrysler in Philadelphia, PA. I can't say enough how well they fixed it.
  • I'm lemon lawing mine because they havent' fixed it...do you know what they did?
  • k300k300 Posts: 1
    My 300 also pulls to the right and has done so from the first day I owned it. I took it to the dealer 4 times, they made the adjustments per the Technical Service Bulletin, and it still pulls to the right. The TSB states that this condition cannot be corrected in all vehicles. When I "floor it" with the accelerator, the pull is greatly exaggerated...heads straight for the right side ditch.

    Since my fourth service attempt, I have engaged a Lemon Law attorney. The dealer says it "drives as it was designed." If that's so, it's a design error.

    Had it evaluated by two outside mechanics yesterday and they agree that it's definitely a problem and it cannot be fixed...not enough adjustment allowance to work with. In fact, they discovered that the dealer's "fix" was to slam the steering cradle several times with a large hammer.

    It's been 90 days since I bought my car and I want out! Can you say "lawsuit?"
  • catercater Posts: 11
    My pulling problem was corrected via TSB and they used an OFFSET BOLT that the factory said to go ahead and use for a greater adjustment.
  • kinglabkinglab Posts: 25
    I also have one of these 300's that pulls. It has been aligned about four times. Yes, I had the cam bolts put in and aligned as per the TSB, and it still pulls. I did speak to a Chrysler service rep friday who said there is a revision to the last TSB coming out soon that will enhance the cross caster even further. Chrysler likes to still say the steering was made to be sensitive, and maybe there is some road crown issues, etc, but I always reply as to why only some pull. If this was a built in steering issue then all of them would pull right. Regardless, I am going to go back for the fifth alignment with the revised TSB numbers and hope it's right. He tells me the enhanced cross caster numbers etc are not out yet so please don't ask me to provide them.It's just a shame a car that draws this much positive attention for it's looks can be so annoying to drive. I am always very clear when someone asks how I like the car. I say;, looks cool, Chrysler dealers need a big boost internally, Chrysler hotline and customer service is really bad, and the car is hard to drive. Other than that, it's a winner! No more Chryslers for me, except maybe a Ram truck with the Cummins engine.
This discussion has been closed.