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Chrysler 300 Alignment Issues

24

Comments

  • 300c300c Member Posts: 11
    Lemon Law!
  • mpietzmpietz Member Posts: 1
    Thank you so much for writing on here.
    Yesterday was my fourth time at the dealer for pulling to the right. They are making me feel like I am crazy. Both my husband and I get tired on trips because of the constant holding of the steering wheel due to that pull.
    Please let me know what you are planning to do. I am grateful for any help!!
  • kinglabkinglab Member Posts: 25
    I will be taking the pulling 300 in this friday. I am now on the fourth alignment/ with cam kits, and yes, two different dealers. Yes, I have spoken to customer service, and yes they are worthless. I am now talking with the local service rep who assures me they will correct this issue friday. Time will tell and I will keep you posted. But, I assure you Chrysler is poor at handling issues. One must be firm without anger.
  • kinglabkinglab Member Posts: 25
    I had my crummy 300 at the dealer friday as mentioned. They used new and improved numbers for the alignment via an unpublished revision to the TSB. I did get a copy of the final alignment specs after they were done however. No more pull. I am a bit worried though if these very intense specs are going to cause undo hardship to the tires. Time will tell. If so, I am sure Chrysler will find a way to try to weasel out of it. Last Chrysler for me. I can send you the specs they used friday as well on a private email if you run into a wall at your local dealer
  • mr1340mr1340 Member Posts: 10
    Watch tire wear, outer edges will scuff, I have 9000 miles and have had the alignment done twice to the TSB specs and wear continues. I'm going back again.
  • mr1340mr1340 Member Posts: 10
    You must work for Chrysler, I have a 1972 Olds 442 that steers better over bumps on the highway, not to mention it does not pull to the right. Something needs to be done about this front end and the tire wear etc
  • jdulongjdulong Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with the car pulling to the right. I had it in for service, and they said it was within specs. But, they switched the two front tires and this helped very little. Very frustrating.
  • kinglabkinglab Member Posts: 25
    They fixed mine after 6 trips back in. Of course I am now wiping out the tires, but they don't care.
  • jhterceirajhterceira Member Posts: 1
    I WAS considering buying the 300C as my car was totaled in a head-on Collision with a drunk driver. Luckily, I am still negotiating with insurance companies and getting a 300C AWD here in the Boston area is next to impossible. Hearing all these problems of how it handles in the snow, programming problems, dead batteries, handling and pulling to the right and tire wear I think I will go back to Toyota and stay with the Avalon XLS I had. Best car I ever had and NEVER once since I purchased it in July 2001 did the car have a single problem. I took it in for regular maintenance as the owners manual called out and it ran like it dream. I am alive today because the Avalon XLS held up so well in a 95 mph head-on impact. I love the look of the 300C AWD with the Hemi but I do not have the patience or time to deal with a car that requires I run back and forth to the dealership for all these problems. Thanks to all you owners for talking me out of the 300C. As usual, all the American Cars continue to be plagued with problems.
  • barry626barry626 Member Posts: 78
    For what reason were u doing 95 in first place?

    Once again, never a cop around when you need them!
  • viper01viper01 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for sharing. I looked at an Avalon before I bought my 300C, but I fell asleep.
  • bjsohiobjsohio Member Posts: 69
    I've got over 5,000 miles on my 300c and never had a problem, except getting stuck on an icy hill with a line of cars behind me. It's the most fun car I've ever owned.
  • motcrue68motcrue68 Member Posts: 10
    I was also worried about all these problems when I ordered my 300C. 1700 miles so far so good. Had little experience with snow (live in south Jersey). I love this car and I'm glad I got it.
  • f15f15 Member Posts: 13
    kinglab,

     

    First off, you're reading a forum titled Problems & Solutions. You'd hear the other, much more common, story of complete satisfaction if there were such a forum. I have 6000 miles of pure pleasure and satisfaction on my 300C which has every option but the sunroof. I've had zero problems, I get superb mileage given the performance the Hemi provides, and have never driven a car that's such a joy to drive (I'm well into my fifth decade of driving), and I've driven all the large Euro sedans, and owned several.

     

    Give the 300C a spirited test drive; you'll be hooked.
  • donnak1donnak1 Member Posts: 39
    Guess what texasbob, I bought a 2005 Dodge Magnum last Sept. and it pulls to the right and even after the cradle adj. it still does it. It's in the shop right now for the 3rd time for this. I have less than 4K miles on it and am very tired of this. The district zone manager was out on the 2nd time fix and told me to keep both of my hands on the wheel and it will not drift. BS Monday they told me the drift to the right is a safety feature put in all cars by all manufacturers to keep us from having head on collisions. I'm calling the Ill. Atty Generals Consumer Fraud division tomorrow. I did sign the I won't sue my dealer paper when I bought this car.
    Donna
  • decker1decker1 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased 2005 300 touring in May 2004 one of the first cars off the line, the pull to the right is so bad (all the time) should you take your hand off the wheel for a short moment your are heading for the ditch, Chrysler has attempted to repair it four times but have had no success, on third repair steering would not return from a left or right turn. I then took the car to a independant shop, they put the car on the frame rack and declaired the vehicle unsafe to drive. The vehicle is now back at a chrysler dealer for another (fourth) attempt to fix the problem. It has been a very frustrating experince.

    I would also like to hear if any other owners are having the same problems
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    Hey All, this is my first post. I am reading thru all 455+ posts trying to get all the info I can, but can someone cut to the cahse for me and tell me the outcome of the Pull To The Right problem? I just got a used (Only 857 miles) 300 base V6 last monday (3/21/05) and I am having that problem. I am bringing it to the dealer tomorrow and want to make sure they fix it right the first time. My car was built in August 2004, yet I thought they had the problem fixed after May 2004? This is deffinatly a real issue, and not the road. Also, anyone have a slight shudder/hesitaion problem when gears change? Love the car so far, but if it starts acting up like my old '97 Aurora, some heads are gonna roll!
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    Well, after trip number one to the "5 Star Dealer" in Boston's North Shore, i still have my 300 leading to the right. This is total BS. Why isn't Chrysler doing something about this. My car is in for fix #2, and if it goes to #3. Lemon Law. No questions asked. Has ANYONE had this problem fixed?

    :mad:
  • tubbybeeitchtubbybeeitch Member Posts: 2
    My 300 was made in Canada So blame them
  • yositoyosito Member Posts: 55
    PULLING PROBLEM COMES FROM REAR TIRES OUT OF ALIGNMENT !
    You´ll fix the problem by fixing the camber of the tires. Most dealers are ONLY taking care of FRONT WHEELS, and FORGETTING ABOUT THE REAR ONES.! :mad:
  • dennisfedennisfe Member Posts: 12
    They put 4 cam bolts on my car. Doesn't pull but tires are still wearing out. Chrysler bought me 2 sets of tires and I am in need of 2 more sets. They tell me there is nothing at this point they can do. What a shame I really love the car and will keep hounding them till they get it right.
  • dennisfedennisfe Member Posts: 12
    The first time Chrysler aligned my car they did the front. Front tires worn bad so they replaced them. Tires started wearing again and the factory Rep, Dave Mower came from Denver and aligned. Did a great job, front and rear. Car drives straight but tires are still wearing. I now have 25,000 and Chrysler has put 2 sets on and my car needs tires again.
    Don't know what is next, they seem to have given up.
  • decker3decker3 Member Posts: 10
    I have had my 300 limited into the shop four times for the pull to the right, dealer has given up, arbratration is next. In total i have gone several weeks with out my car as they try to fix it, I also took it to and independant shop and they put on a frame rack and claim the car was built incorrectly. I understand that this was a problem in the early build days prior to april 27, 2004. keep fighting
  • buckheadbuckhead Member Posts: 16
    You are absolutely spot on. I had my 300C in for the fourth time to fix the pulling problem and by then the tech had learned that you must fix the rear wheels as well. As soon as he did that, it works just fine. Frustrating, but fixed.
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    Hey Buckhead, do you think I could get a copy of your Service Receipt and what they did to the rear wheels, maybe post the info here or email me (my email address is in my profile). At least, let us know the dealer that fixed it.
    Thanks.

    Also, my build date is August of 2004....so it happens to cars other than Pre -April 2004.
  • buckheadbuckhead Member Posts: 16
    I'm out of town, but as soon as I get back, I'll look it up.
  • decker3decker3 Member Posts: 10
    Hi Texas Bob, I have been try to get a copy of the TSB 02-003-04 Chrysler has removed it from their files if you have a copy of this notice still I would really like to get my hands on it as I am going to arbitration first week of June. Please go to my profile and get my e-mail address. Thanks
  • decker3decker3 Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone have a copy of the TSB 02-003-04 Chrysler has removed it from their files, my dealer refuses to give me a copy, claims it has been distroyed. I go to Arbitration in the first week of June and I think this will be the ace in the hole for my case. Please see my profile for e-mail address. I will keep you all posted on my situation
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    I have a copy of the TSB in PDF format. I can email it to you, but your email doesn't show up in the profile. Email me...my email is in my profile. - GRECO
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    NUMBER: 02-003-04
    DATE: May 25, 2004

    SUBJECT:
    Right Lead

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.

    MODELS:
    2005 (LX) 300/Magnum

    NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 25, 2004 (MDH 0425XX).

    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.

    DIAGNOSIS:
    Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases. Vehicles built on or after April 25, 2004 already have the alignment biased and no further action should be required or taken by the dealer other than verifying the vehicle is set at the revised specifications listed in this bulletin.

    NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
    1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to the pressure stated on the door placard.
    2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.

    NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.

    SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
    NPN Alignment Equipment

    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT to set the wheel alignment to the specifications below.


    NUMBER: 02-003-04
    GROUP: Suspension
    DATE: May 25, 2004

    NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster to be -0.8 degree and no more than -1.3 degrees. That means you will have more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set in at +0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA. The adjustment bolts only provide about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car and the driver's side will move rearward in car.

    NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.

    REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS

    FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
    CAMBER - LEFT -0.1° -0.60° to +0.40°
    CAMBER - RIGHT -0.20° -0.70° to +0.30°
    Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.20° -0.30 to +0.60°
    CASTER - LEFT +10.30° +9.00° to +12.10°
    CASTER - RIGHT +11.10° +9.00° to +12.10°
    Cross-Caster (Maximum side-to-side difference) -0.80° -1.30 to -0.50°
    INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.15°
    TOTAL TOE** +0.20° 0.00° to +0.40°
    Maximum side-to-side difference 0.00° 0.06°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 328mm (12 15/16 in.) 318 to 338mm (12 1/2 to 13 3/8 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER* -0.75° -1.25° to -0.25°
    Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.00° -0.50 to 0.50°
    INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.25°

    02-003-04 -2-
    FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
    THRUST ANGLE 0.0° -0.50° to +0.50°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 296mm (11 5/8 in.) 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    Notes:
    Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values.
    * For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.
    ** TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally
    split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive
    toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out

    POLICY:
    Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

    TIME ALLOWANCE:
    Labor Operation No: Description Amount
    02-00-02-90 Set Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel 0.7 Hrs.
    02-00-01-91 Alignment Using Cradle Adjustment and Set
    Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel
    1.0 Hrs.

    FAILURE CODE:
    LM Leads Right
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    And Lastly, for today....my dealership North of Boston did this TSB TWICE and it didn't work. We really need to start a class-action on this.
  • lgret13lgret13 Member Posts: 21
    TSB # 02-002-05
    March 12, 2005
    Right Lead/Revised Alignment Specifications

    THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 02-003-04, DATED MAY 25, 2004, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES REVISED REAR WHEEL DRIVE (RWD) SPECIFICATIONS, ADDITIONAL SPECIFICATIONS FOR ALL WHEEL DRIVE (AWD) AND AN ADDITIONAL MODEL YEAR.

    SUBJECT: Right Lead/Revised Alignment Specifications

    OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.

    MODELS: 2005 - **2006** (LX) 300/Charger/Magnum

    SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.

    DIAGNOSIS: Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases.

    NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
    1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to the pressure stated on the door placard.
    2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.

    NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.

    REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT service info tab / 2-Suspension / Wheel Alignment, to set the wheel alignment to the specifications below.

    NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster to be **-1.0 degrees and no more than -1.6 degrees for RWD and target the cross caster to be 0.6 degrees and no more than -1.2 degrees for AWD**. That means you will have more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set at +0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA **for RWD, p/n 05161519AA for AWD**. The adjustment bolts only provide about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car and the driver's side will move rearward in car.

    NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft. lbs.).

    CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.

    **REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS

    FRONT: RWD ____ PREFERRED SETTING ____ ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER -LEFT _____________ 0° __________ -0.50° to +0.50°
    CAMBER -RIGHT __________ -0.30° __________ -0.80° to +0.20°
    Cross-Camber ____________ 0.30° __________ -0.25 to +1.00°
    CASTER -LEFT ___________ +9.40° __________ +8.40° to +10.40°
    CASTER -RIGHT __________ +10.40° ________ +9.40° to +11.40°
    Cross-Caster ___________ -1.00° __________ -1.60 to -0.40°
    INDIVIDUAL TOE __________ 0.05° __________ 0.00° to +0.10°
    TOTAL TOE (1) __________ +0.10° __________ 0.00° to +0.20°
    Maximum side-to-side diff ____ 0.00° __________ 0.06°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIV. ___ 328mm (12 7/8 in.) __ 318 to 346mm (12 1/2 to 13 3/8 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT ________ 0 __________ -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    REAR: RWD ____ PREFERRED SETTING ____ ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER (2) __________ -0.75° __________ -1.25° to -0.25°
    Cross-Camber _________ 0.00° __________ -0.80 to 0.80°
    TOE -Right ___________ 0.03° __________ -0.12° to +0.18°
    TOE -Left ____________ 0.17° __________ 0.02° to 0.32°
    THRUST ANGLE _______ 0.07° __________ -0.08° to +0.22°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIV. ___ 296mm (11 5/8in.) __ 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT _____ 0 __________ -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    FRONT: AWD ____ PREFERRED SETTING ____ ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER -LEFT ____________ 0° ____________ -0.50° to +0.50°
    CAMBER -RIGHT __________ -0.30° __________ -0.80° to +0.20°
    Cross-Camber ____________ 0.30° __________ -0.25 to +1.00°
    CASTER -LEFT ____________ +4.50° ________ +3.50° to +5.50°
    CASTER -RIGHT __________ 5.10° __________ 4.10° to 6.10°
    Cross-Caster____________ -0.60° __________ -1.20° to 0.0 °
    INDIVIDUAL TOE __________ 0.05° __________ 0.00° to +0.10°
    TOTAL TOE (1) __________ +0.10° __________ 0.00° to +0.20°
    Maximum side-to-side diff ____ 0.00° __________ 0.06°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIV. ____ 352mm (13 7/8 in.) ___ 342 to 362mm (13 1/2 to 14 1/4 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT ______ 0 _____________ -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    REAR: AWD ____ PREFERRED SETTING ____ ACCEPTABLE RANGE

    CAMBER (2) __________ -0.75° ____________ -1.25° to -0.25°
    Cross-Camber _________ 0.00° ____________ -0.80 to 0.80°
    TOE -Right ___________ 0.03° ____________ -0.12° to +0.18°
    TOE -Left _____________ 0.17° ____________ 0.02° to 0.32°
    THRUST ANGLE ________ 0.07° ____________ -0.08° to +0.22°
    RIDE HEIGHT - INDIV. __ 308mm (12 1/8 in.) ___ 298 to 318mm (11 3/4 to 12 1/2 in.)
    CROSS RIDE HEIGHT _____ 0 _____________ -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)

    NOTE: Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values, after the vehicle has been jounced at each corner.

    NOTE: (1) TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. Positive toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out. (2) For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.**
  • atxatx Member Posts: 2
    I have had my car aligned about 5 times with no success. I just got off the phone with my service advisor who said that it is time a Chrysler rep got involved to see what they can do. This is very frustrating. I will post my results, let me know what happens with your problem.
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    Please excuse my "SCREAM' on the title post. We are wondering if anyone has had the steering problem corrected or if it is even repairable. Our beautiful 300C :blush: has been driven less than 200 miles since April 11th. It was in the dealership from that date until April 29th and now it sits in my driveway waiting to see if Chrysler will step up to the plate and correct this problem. We have been told after each repair (think we are up to 7) that the alignment is within specs and that and I quote "is the best that it is going to get" by our dealer. We have been round & round with Chrysler Customer Service. The people there are very nice, but, can't seem to do alot to help except listen, apologize and forward messages to other departments. We are currently waiting to drive with the District Manager if he can fit us into his busy schedule and had told Chrysler (before even seeing the vehicle) to close the investigation because his tech rep says it is fine) We are on our second set of tires. My husband's arm gets tired trying to keep this car in the correct lane on his 1/2hr commute to work. So now he drives my car and I get to look at the 300C in the driveway all day. Relations are so bad with the dealership now that we can't get a call back from them.?? :lemon:??
    Has any one had any success with getting this repaired????
    or getting Chrysler to Buy-Back????
    Any Information would be Appreciated
  • gagugagu Member Posts: 4
    You will not have any success with the steering issue. I have brought my vehicle back 4 times and found out there was a recall with the allighnment. The dealership swore up and down they corrected the problem, but my vehicle still pulls to the right. They made me test drive it with the service manager and he told me the same thing....Thats the best your going to get and it has to do with the "crown in the road". I contacted a lemon lawyer and I am proceeding with a law suit. I brought the vehicle to an independant mechanic and he told me that there is nothing you can do. The vehicle was not built properly and will always pull sharply to the right. Im fuming!
  • srschrysrschry Member Posts: 4
    the pulling right is caused by incorrect camber the tsb if done correct will correct the problem the cross camber should be 1 degree difference have the dealer loosen the cradle and use come alongs to shift the right side fwd and left side rwd
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    Please let me know how it turns out. Think we will have to take the same route. I don't know what state you are in. We are in NY and I am trying to educate myself on the process. We have owned approximately 12 new vehicles in the last 10 years and have never had a problem like this. Was able to find a few new telephone numbers to call today at Chrysler in Michigan (they are listed on the Eastern MI BBB site) and will try that. Think that I am almost out of options. I will find out today when the district rep. will be here to drive the car. Don't think that will do alot of good (the rep. wants to drive it alone with the service manager :confuse: not my husband who used to drive car everyday) and he seems to have already made his mind up about the vehicle. :mad: :lemon: :mad:
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    Go back to post #551 and print out the TSB. Take it to your dealer and ask him if he has the revised TSB for the right lead issue. If he says yes, ask him what the date is on it. If the dates don't match, that tells you all you need to know about your dealer. If the dates match, that tells you he can't fix it.

    Many people have had this problem and many people have had it fixed.....but not everyone. It seems that the better dealers are fixing this, and the not so good dealers aren't. I've seen where some dealers have even sent the car out to an independent shop to get this problem resolved. If it were me I'd be asking around for recommendations on a better dealer.

    I'm sure you're frustrated. I'd get over there today and get some answers and start this process moving. Nicely tell him all you want is your car fixed, then ask him, "what do you suggest I do?" He's there to help so see what he says.

    Chrysler dealers are all well aware of the right lead problem. Just remember that all dealers are not created equal. Let's see if we can get them to help you.

    Edit: I just saw your latest post. They're probably going to try and fix it again. They may even send it out. Make sure you let us know what happens.
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the post. Will keep you up-to-date as things progress. We have had the TSB done twice (2 different dealerships). One was very early on and the other was the end of April. The Area Technical Service Representative drove vehicle and gave the dealer the revised TSB information. We are trying our best to continue to work with Chrysler. I had someone (finally) call me back from the Michigan Customer Relations Office and he seems willing to help. He actually listened to Me!!!!!!! He even seem surprised that the dealer told us that we would have to replace tires every 10,000 miles and that had nothing at all to do with the car's "alignment issues" I have already questioned the Dealer and the District Zone Rep. on what to do and their suggestion was.............drive the car the way it is...........could not believe that I heard that come out of not one, but, two mouths. Will keep you all informed on how things go. Hopefully, it will help others avoid all the frustration that we have had to deal with.
  • lennylenny Member Posts: 29
    At least they are listening! I had the problem with the pitting perimeter of the Rims on my 300c and was told District Manager said "no". Call Chrysler Customer Service 800# and told of problem was told "DSM said no so the answer is no!" Went to the e-mail address and within 6 minutes got the answer"we have reviewed the file and agree with DSM answer is "NO" - So call dealer where we purchased the car (about 70 miles away as my local dealer did not have any) and was told "No Problem" Chrysler is very aware of this problem with the rims" Have appointment a week from Thursday to have fixed or replaced. Not sure what the "fix" is, but was told they would replace if this guy couldn't fix. They couldn't understand why the dealer I've been doing all my maintance work with wouldn't handle. Guess what, He will no longer be doing the regular maintance either!
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    Contact a Lemon Law Lawer ASAP. There IS no fix. The New TSB doesn't work, the OLD TSB doesn't work, 9 alignemts don't work, driving with the local senior tech doesn't work, driving with the regional tech doesn't work, adding new bolts doens't work, adjusting the tire pressure doesn't work, taking it to an alignemt specialist doesn't work.....NOTHING WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've got a $29k LAWN ORNAMENT!

    IVE DONE IT ALL! The car is a LOAD and my lawyer is gonna take this out of my hands. If you have the pull problem save yourself the aggrivation of going back and forth to the dealer....GET A LAWYER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    here we go again....just lost my whole post.......will try again. It is Thursday, the day that we have been waiting for. The DSM was coming to the dealership to drive our 300C. My husband got the call (about the same time that I received the letter saying that the NYS Attorney Generals Office was willing to hear our case at an Arbitration Hearing) My husband went to the dealership and requested that the car be put on the Alignment machine before they took it out on the highway. The DSM and the Service Manager REFUSED. They keep saying that the car is in specs, but, no one can show it to us on a print out. The last time it was done they did not have a print out, the time before that the copy machine was broken ...... ( I think you see where I am going here) Makes us question why they will not put it on the machine. We even offered to pay for it. The road test went about as well as the initial contact. The DSM drove the car (never fully taking both hand off the wheel) and said that it is fine. My husband was told that we have to understand that it has a Benz' front end and this is the way that the European cars drive. :confuse: When he asked about the tires that were shot again.....he was told that was not up for discussion.
    So one more call to Chrysler in the a.m. and see if they are going to stand behind this vehicle or not.
    If not it is off to :lemon: Arbitration :lemon: and We will have to go from there
    Will keep everyone up-to-date as things progress
    :sick: how I'm feeling about my "C" these days
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    Just made my last attempt to try to deal with Chrysler to get the Pull Problem Corrected. Called another dealer and requested an appointment to have the pull checked and corrected. Felt it was only fair to tell him that this repair had been attempted at other dealerships(BIG MISTAKE). The dealer service manager was very nice and was trying his best to help us out. He did however have to contact the DSM. He informed him that we were willing to pay to have the Alignment checked and corrected. He was told not to work on our vehicle. There is nothing wrong with it. I guess I have nothing better to do then sit on hold with Chrysler all day and try and get this resolved . I called Chrysler and they told me that we cannot bring our car to ANY DEALERSHIP for alignment work. They were not going to generate any more paperwork on our alignment issue. I do not understand-- if the money is coming out of my pocket--why do they care???? Has anyone else had this type of experience with Chrysler?? or is it just us. NY :lemon: law rules are different here...maybe that is the issue?? Any information would be appreciated....
  • arnoldwarnoldw Member Posts: 28
    Why don't you take it to an independent shop? You said you'd pay for it anyways, so why are you going to a Chrysler dealer?
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    The reason that we don't want to (or can't actually) take it to an independent shop is that we do not have any independent shops within 60 miles that even has the equipment to do the alignment properly. If we had that choice we would have done it already. Our selling dealership did not even have the equipment to do the alignment the first 2 times. They had to sublet to a Caddy dealer in the area. They are also a DC dealer (Jeep) We do not live in an area that allows us too many options as far as repair facilities go. There are very few independents in our area, and from what we have been told none of them has the proper equipment. We certainly do not want to make things worse.
  • urizzmurizzm Member Posts: 6
    I had an arbitration hearing scheduled for 5/24/05, but it was postponed less then 24 hours before the hearing. Chrysler said they postponed because their key winess couldn't attend. I too filed a NYS Lemon Law compliant in part due to the pulling problem. I've also had other issues as well including a "clunking noise" coming from the rear-end. Please keep us posted on your compliant, and I will update you on mine. It is starting to look like Chrysler is having a real problem with the 300's. :lemon:
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Member Posts: 40
    You need to get a lawyer that specifically deals with Lemon Laws and that doesn't take ANY money from you, the take their fee from the manufacturer.
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the info.......will keep you up-to-date as things progress
    I am in the process of trying to find an attorney (locally) that handles lemon law. This is just as hard as finding an alignment machine to put this car on. We have not received a date for our hearing. Just mailing in the fee (got the fee letter yesterday) Let me know how you make out. They (DC) really need to step up and take care of the issues with these cars.
  • gagugagu Member Posts: 4
    Well we are in the midst of a lawsuit. Im tired of excuses and Im tired of constant problems arising. Now the rear windows will not go down (from time to time...its not constant) and the dealer yet once again can not duplicate the problem...so therefore to them, there isnt one. After having problems with the trans, which they believed to be the solenoid, it now appears that the car has lost power and hesitates when you step on the gas. IM SO DONE WITH THIS CAR, IM COUNTING THE DAYS TILL ITS GONE. We are using a lawyer in new jersey that only gets paid when the case is won. We didnt have to pay any retainer fees or legal fees. Considering the car has been at the shop more than it has been on the road in a years time, I think we got this in the bag. I would advise you to get a new york lemon lawyer (most work the same way, you dont pay unless you win the case) and get rid of the headache. Make copies of all your service agreements and keep them if and when you decide to get a lawyer. If the car has been to the shop for the same problem three times or more, its considered a lemon. Its best to keep brining the car back to the dealership. The more failed attempts they have on record, the shorter the wait time for some action. Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Its a beautiful car, no doubt, but whats the use of owning it if you cant even drive it without breaking your arm to keep it on the road.
  • baddawgscbaddawgsc Member Posts: 15
    I have been on the phone all day trying to find someone in our area that even handles Lemon Law cases. I would love to take your advise and continue bringing it to the dealer to try to get this fixed..........only problem is Chrysler has refused to let us bring it to ANY Daimler-Chrysler dealer for any issue that deals with alignment/pull to right or tire wear. We have been told by dealers, DSM, and offices in Michigan that WE CANNOT GO TO A DC DEALER FOR ANY RELATED REPAIRS. Doesn't sound fair.......does it.They do not want anymore Repair Orders written with our complaints about the above and told us so. It is totally unbelievable. We cannot even pay to have it put on the rack to see that it is in specs as they say it is at a DC Dealer. (who happen to be the only ones in our area with the right equipment) I have called and tried. Chrysler's position is their DSM drove, it is fine, CASE CLOSED. If they are so sure that it is in specs and rides perfect, why not humor us and put it on the rack and prove us wrong :confuse: ??? (Sorry for the Ranting--Just gets a little Frustrating!!) Keep us up-to-date on how you make out.....will do the same. Good Luck.
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