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Chrysler 300 Alignment Issues
I now have 700 miles on my 300C. Last week my car was serviced for the right pull problem. Following alignment and switching tires left to right, it is better, but not fixed. I would like to know more about the cam bolts TSB refered to in other posts here. I have experienced the sticky outside temp bug.
I am also noticing frequent shifts between 4th & 5th when cruising between 45 and 60 mph. I have thought about just keeping it in 4th when driving local roads, but don't know what the long-term effects would be bedsides worse gas mileage.
The one thing the 300C transmission is missing is an electronic lock out on the quick shifter. I tend to drive with my hand on the stick and have inadvertently pullled it left and downshifted around turns without realizing it until rpm's run up when accelerating.
Beyond the right pull and shifting back and forth matters, the 300C is an incredible rocket. I have always wanted a hemi, and could not have hoped for one in a better package than the 300C. My most recent toy was a cherry 70 Olds 442 Convertible, and to tell you the truth I love cruising the 300C much, much more.
I am also noticing frequent shifts between 4th & 5th when cruising between 45 and 60 mph. I have thought about just keeping it in 4th when driving local roads, but don't know what the long-term effects would be bedsides worse gas mileage.
The one thing the 300C transmission is missing is an electronic lock out on the quick shifter. I tend to drive with my hand on the stick and have inadvertently pullled it left and downshifted around turns without realizing it until rpm's run up when accelerating.
Beyond the right pull and shifting back and forth matters, the 300C is an incredible rocket. I have always wanted a hemi, and could not have hoped for one in a better package than the 300C. My most recent toy was a cherry 70 Olds 442 Convertible, and to tell you the truth I love cruising the 300C much, much more.
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I believe it was dated 5/25 /04.
Regarding the comment about the shimmy on bumps, I noticed this too, and decided it occurs because the car is rear wheel drive, and most of us have not driven a rear wheel drive vehicle in a long time. The weight differential without the transmission over the front axle may have something to do with it as well. Weight balance is 50/50 over front and rear axles in the 300C providing superior traction when the ESP is engaged.
I assure you that with the ESP on, this car is as stable as any when cornering on virtually any road condition. It is nearly impossible to lose contact with the pavement in drastic maneuvers. I do not notice shimmy at all now that I am comfortable with the feel and think it is more how the 300C transmits the road to the steering wheel than any kind of problem. I have suggested elsewhere that the 300C needs an adjustable suspension for sport or cruising modes. I could see where this would concern you unless you had a chance to put the car through the paces.
For all current 300c owners my car is in for the hood latch broken, embarrassing situation showing folks 4 July car and could not close the hood, 200 miles from dealer and I had to us budgie cord to secure hood, also notified the dealer that I just received to recall letters D28 and D30, which they advised me they were going to correct.
http://photos.yahoo.com/jlsy2001
Anyone else receive notice? I did today.
Recall notice: Front Shoulder belt adjuster turning loop bolts.
May not be properly tightened?
May increase the risk of injury to front occupants.
Ordered my 300c on 4/6, built 4/21, took delivery 4/29.
DATE: May 25, 2004
SUBJECT:
Right Lead
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves adjusting the alignment to revised specifications.
MODELS:
2005 (LX) 300/Magnum
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 25, 2004 (MDH 0425XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator states the vehicle leads to the right.
DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the car on a FLAT road. If the car tracks straight, the vehicle operator is experiencing crown sensitivity. If the vehicle tracks to the right, perform the Repair Procedure. Crown sensitivity can not be eliminated in all the cases. Vehicles built on or after April 25, 2004 already have the alignment biased and no further action should be required or taken by the dealer other than verifying the vehicle is set at the revised specifications listed in this bulletin.
NOTE: Before evaluating the vehicle, it is important to check the following:
1. Tire pressure - Adjust tire pressure (if necessary) in all four wheels to the pressure stated on the door placard.
2. Tire size & type - Verify that all four tires are the same size and type.
NOTE: When evaluating the vehicle, always drive the same road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of road crown & cross wind.
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Alignment Equipment
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Use the procedures outlined on TechCONNECT to set the wheel alignment to the specifications below.
NUMBER: 02-003-04
GROUP: Suspension
DATE: May 25, 2004
NOTE: When aligning the front end to induce right caster bias (the vehicle will tend to track toward the side with the least positive caster), target the cross caster to be -0.8 degree and no more than -1.3 degrees. That means you will have more caster on the right than on the left. Cross camber should be set in at +0.2 - +0.3 degree. That means you will have more camber on the left than on the right. Utilize the cradle shift method PRIOR to using the caster/camber adjustment bolt kit, p/n 05134117AA. The adjustment bolts only provide about 0.2 - 0.3 degree change and should only be used as a last resort. When shifting the cradle, the passenger side of the cradle will move forward in car and the driver's side will move rearward in car.
NOTE: After the cradle has been shifted, torque all 4 cradle bolts to 175Nm (130 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: If an adjustment bolt is to be installed do not allow the bolt head to turn during disassembly or assembly, the cradle tension link joint or the lower control arm bushing inner metal sleeve will be destroyed and require replacement. THE NUT MUST BE UNTORQUED AND REMOVED, BEFORE THE BOLT. Once the nut is removed the bolt can be slid out.
REVISED ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER - LEFT -0.1° -0.60° to +0.40°
CAMBER - RIGHT -0.20° -0.70° to +0.30°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.20° -0.30 to +0.60°
CASTER - LEFT +10.30° +9.00° to +12.10°
CASTER - RIGHT +11.10° +9.00° to +12.10°
Cross-Caster (Maximum side-to-side difference) -0.80° -1.30 to -0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.15°
TOTAL TOE** +0.20° 0.00° to +0.40°
Maximum side-to-side difference 0.00° 0.06°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 328mm (12 15/16 in.) 318 to 338mm (12 1/2 to 13 3/8 in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER* -0.75° -1.25° to -0.25°
Cross-Camber (Maximum side-to-side difference) 0.00° -0.50 to 0.50°
INDIVIDUAL TOE 0.10° -0.05° to +0.25°
02-003-04 -2-
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
THRUST ANGLE 0.0° -0.50° to +0.50°
RIDE HEIGHT - INDIVIDUAL 296mm (11 5/8 in.) 286 to 306mm (11 1/4 to 12 in.)
CROSS RIDE HEIGHT 0 -12 to +12mm (1/2 in.)
Notes:
Vehicle height and suspension alignment values reflect after vehicle spring settling values.
* For reference only. These are non-adjustable angles.
** TOTAL TOE is the sum of both left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally
split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive
toe is toe-in and negative toe is toe-out
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
02-00-02-90 Set Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel 0.7 Hrs.
02-00-01-91 Alignment Using Cradle Adjustment and Set
Front and Rear Toe / Center Steering Wheel
1.0 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
LM Leads Right
Guys,
While at Camp Jeep I met the new head of the LX program. He just finished heading up design on the new Grand Cherokee (which will be OUTSTANDING) and has been heading up LX stuff for about 2 weeks. He was telling us all kinds of stories about flogging Jeeps mercilessly and doing all kinds of crazy stuff with them. Exactly the kind of guy I want to talk to.
Anyway, I ask him about the right pull and he told me the problem is, well, motor-heads. Apparently the suspension engineers were focused on performance and wouldn't notice or care about a crown sensitivity. He told me this is his number one customer issue and it will be corrected. My impression is that he is very focused on customer satsfaction.
I asked about production tolerances etc and he said no, it was a design issue.
He told me to expect a TSB with revised alignment specs after they test to be sure that there would not be new issues like excessive tire wear.
I heard it from the horse's mouth. I guess we can all take a deep breath and wait for the TSB.
The second one initially had a immediate and rather severe pull to the right . However, it had no pull for the remainder of a 30 minute test drive. I am positive, and I repeat positive, it was not due to road crown.
I must say something that many of you may not like to hear. Even if this pull to the right is sometimes attributed to road crown,(and again I am sure that was not the case with me) there is a major problem with this car. No car should ever handle like that if road crown exists. I could have had a car accident, had I not been a good driver and concentrating on the road at that particular moment. I could see someone possibly having an accident if in that time frame they were not on top of their driving. All it would take would be one momentary lapse in concentration or your hand momentarily off the wheel and the car goes off the road, or maybe something worse. We all have had these moments. I would not trust this car, it could have a horribly deadly outcome.
Has anyone else experienced this severe momentary pull to the right?
P.S.
There is a post somewhere in the forums about a car accident attributed to this problem. I think 300c owners should start a class action lawsuit and have Chrysler recall and fix this steering problem immediately. Please do not wait until more cars are out there on the road.
The 300C is a pleasure to drive (mine now has 3800 miles on her) - no you can't just sit there and have it drive you - you need to be alert to feel of the road and the car. I have been pleasurably surprised at the handling and road feel of the steering. For a big car, with lots of power it drives beautifully.
I don't deny that there has been TSB issued for early build models to correct a pull but all the owners of the 300C that I have talked to agree that the car's handling is exceptional.
Before you start talking class action law suite I think you might want to do some further driving in one of these cars. Even in your post you say it was a momentary pull which is far more indicative of road surface conditions than any fault of the car.
My point was not only that it was a momentary pull, but a very severe one. Again, if I had a lapse in concentration the wheel could have ripped out of my hands. No steering should ever react like that, European, American or Japanese.
Chrysler should immediately fix this dangerous defect before it gets
out of hand. The more cars out there the more the risk to the public.
Unfortunately, as we have seen many times in corporate america, they look only at the hard numbers and react only when it is financially beneficial to them.
Fix this issue and the 300c will be a great car for the money.
During my test drive it only happened once. Only after reading other posts about steering problems did I understand what I had experienced.
All cars have their issues, however steering is a major concern.
There is no way I would buy a car that has a steering problem.
Chrysler needs to be honest about this and fix it right away.
The rest of the drive was impressive. Car handles real well, very quiet, roomy interior and lots of power. I do have a dislike for the autostick. I drive an audi and the tiptronic is much more driver friendly. When engaged you can immediately disengage back into drive by moving the shifter back into the main drive slot. Autostick makes you hold the stick in position until it runs through all the gears and then back into drive. This does not allow shifting to be responsive when you need it. With tiptronic I can immediately shift up and down and go back into drive without having to think about it. With autostick you have to keep an eye on the gear readout when trying to go back into drive. I mostly use my tiptronic to decelerate my car or to hold a gear, then I pop it back into drive. It's a great tool to have. If I'm wrong about autostick please let me know. The salesman did not know how to use it.
Fix the steering, improve the auto stick, add on all wheel drive and it will be an even better car. I'll buy one too.
Since my fourth service attempt, I have engaged a Lemon Law attorney. The dealer says it "drives as it was designed." If that's so, it's a design error.
Had it evaluated by two outside mechanics yesterday and they agree that it's definitely a problem and it cannot be fixed...not enough adjustment allowance to work with. In fact, they discovered that the dealer's "fix" was to slam the steering cradle several times with a large hammer.
It's been 90 days since I bought my car and I want out! Can you say "lawsuit?"