I was browsing through the Monte Carlo Store and I found some cross drilled rotors there. If the impala and the Monte share the same kinda rotors then they should work on our cars.
The big problem that creates the warping in the rotor is very simple. The average rotor will heat up to 1500 degrees or so during normal usuage. If you are driving through lots of larger puddles in the rain or lots of slush/snow in colder weather, it will eventually lead to warping (or speed it up). Damn science and it's effects of cold temps. on hot metal.
I have the Helms manual for the Impala 2000 and I'm trying to find what size the oil drain plug is so that I can replace it. Do they have that kind of information in these manuals? I can't seem to find anything, =(.
I have a 2000 Impala with 39,000 miles. I had a front brake job done in Oct 2001. Two weeks ago, my front brakes started grinding so back to the dealer we go. I was told by the service advisor that my front calipers were worn out and that caused my front brakes to wear out prematurely. Apparently no one bothered to check them when the car was there 6 months ago for the front brake job. The dealership graciously replaced the calipers and the front brakes under warranty (I didn't purchase an ext. warranty)and I was back on the road again. Has anyone else had this type of problem? Also my head liner is coming unglued where the head liner meets the front windshield. The part has to be ordered in order for the dealership to fix it.
What wore out and was replaced during this past brake job? Calipers, pads, and/or rotors? The calipers squeeze the pads against the rotors to stop the car. Typically, the pads go first, then the rotors, and sometimes the calipers. However is is not normal for the calipers to "wear out". What was done 6 months ago?
I have a 2001 LS built 09/00 with 21k miles. I've had the serpentine belt replaced twice and am going to dealer to have it done again. I read this entire board and have seen nothing about it. Any others out there? I have also been hearing the klunking from front end so I'll probably get the ISS 'lube' job. I'll also be asking about the bad booster amp. My wife says the trunk has come unlatched a couple times while driving, has anybody else had that problem? I think she is hitting the button with her knee.
I think Trenana had a binding caliper. I've seen several Impala posts about dealers installing caliper pin kits. My only experience with GM brakes is on cars from the 80's but the pins on those cars are trouble free unless salt gets in and corrodes them. The rubber boot keeps it out but sometimes it drops off. A disk brake doesn't have a retraction spring. Brake release depends on the caliper being able to respond to a puny little retraction force from the rubber O-ring around the piston. If there's binding at the pins, the piston in the bore, or the sliding surface between the caliper and the knuckle, the pads drag and wear out prematurely. My cars have worn out brakes from binding at each of these places. If you don't disassemble the calipers on the earlier cars and clean them when you replace the pads, you probably won't get the full life from the pads. Current brakes may be the same.
I have not heard of a trunk latching problem before. Maybe the latch needs to be adjusted. The trunk release doesn't work when the car is in gear. So if she's bumping the button, its when she gets in/out of the car.
We got substantial rain this past weekend and when I got into the Impala, the front passenger floor was wet and beaded with water. I thought I left a window cracked but that wasn't the case.
When the courtesy lamps are on, I could see a bead of water rolling on the surface of the foot lamp. Seems that I have a leak that is making its way through the dash...
I plan on calling the dealer tonight to have them look at it. Not too thrilled as I cringe at the notion of them dismantling the dash! I hope this isn't a sign of things to come. I opted out of a moonroof because of leaks! Sweet irony!
I have a 2001 Impala LS with a sunroof...There is an awful rattle in the overhead elelctronic readout box..has anyone experienced this noise & if so what can be done.
I have a 2000 base Impala with 38000mi/62000km - and I have noticed a sound which I believe to be the fuel pump when the accelerator pedal is not being pressed. It's most noticeable when stopped at a traffic light or stop sign. When you stomp on the gas, the noise goes away, only to return as soon as you let up. Is this normal, or does it sound like a bad fuel pump? The fuel filter was replaced a couple of months ago. Thx
I brought the '01 LS in to the dealer for an oil change and for warranty work for the leaking passenger compartment issue.
They explained that a cowl seal was the culprit of the leak and "re-attached" it. They also replaced the blower fan/motor and the cabin filter because of water damage. To be honest, the blower was fine - but he said that it may short due to the moisture so they swapper it - VERY COOL OF THEM.
Anyway, I got a call from the service dept. and he advised me that there was carbon build-up on the injectors and throttle ((bodies?)) I forget the exact term on the service invoice). So they cleaned all of that with some "M.O.C." cleaner. Anyone know what that is??
I can't say I notice a difference in the ride. I didn't notice any issues before tehy told me about the carbon issues. I would assume that carbon build-up is totally normal - goes with the territory of a gasoline combustion engine, right?
Well, the dealer was great. Best service dept. I have ever worked with. The hours are even better 7am - 2am How is that for convenience!
Will have to wait for the bnext torrential downpour to see if the cowl seal is completely attached this time.
I know there is a TB about 4th gear burnout. I had been experiencing slip or roughness after trips of about 100 miles. This started last year at about 18,000 miles. Told the service folks but they couldn't find anything. Started to happen more frequently, would hesitate when I would first start up after a trip. Would sudder and them 'slam' into gear. Had to do a 200 mile trip to upstate NY 2 weeks ago and after about 150 mile we stopped. As I slowed and stopped at a dinner, the trans like disengaged, like I took it out of drive, but I didn't. I put into park and then drive and it slammed into gear. Coming home that weekend I noticed that something was not the same. The car ran ok but didn't have the same feel above 50 mph. Upshifted ok but just didn't feel the same. Well, 2 days ago, which was 2 weeks before my 36 months hit, I bought my 2000 Impala LS 6/14/1999, backing out of my driveway the trans shuddered into reverse, shuddered into drive, bucked down the block, disengaged at the stop sign and slammed into drive and 'check' light came on. I was able to get to the dealership, tach was 4000 rpm at 35-40 mph!. Pulled in but did not turn off the engine, put into park and got out, the trans was grinding away. Some guy waiting to pick up a car said, 'wow, that sure don't sound good; sounds like when your stomach is empty and growling but only really louder'. It really was an awful sound. Well 4 hours later I received the call that they would be replacing my trans and I should have the car back Monday. Thank God it happened when it did and not 2 weeks later, even though I have been mentioning this for a year. They said that it would have been covered but I have my doubts...even though it was less than 36,000 miles it would have been over 36 months and I don't have the extended warranty. The cost of a new trans installed is close to 3K. Every car I have ever bought, for me and my wife have been chevys. In HS, 62 Impala, then a 71 Nova SS, my first new car,(I loved that car), then when 1st child came traded to 79 Caprice Classic (this also had a bad trans replaced, the metric class action suit), then a 91 Caprice Classic that later became the wifes car; and a used Lumina Z34(mine) and a 99 Malibu when the Caprice traded in and finally when my oldest totaled the Z34 Memorial day weekend 1999 I bought 2000 Impala LS. I have always loved Chevy, keep the cars for at least 85,000 miles. Had over 100K on the 79 Caprice and over 110K on the 91 Caprice. The engines never die if oil changed every 3-4K miles. Transmissions on the other hand suck. ALSO: I had the 'clunking' and they did the shim fix and all ok so far. Never had a problem with rotors, still have originals. Have not had to have a brake job yet. No leaks anywhere as others have reported. Did have the air blower replaced in 6/2000. I think I may have been one of the first to report a problem with the blower. It whined just like the ones in the 91 Caprice. They try to tell you it may be leaves touching the fan or something like that but the axis for the fan is metal and to housing is plastic and metal against plastic eventually makes noise.
The last item you stated was about the trunk unlatching and your wife thinking she is hitting the button with her knee. I can tell you she is not! I have a 2000LS and it kept happening to me. I used to think the same or that I was hitting the open on the key fab. I would hit a bump and the trunk was opened!! Well, bring it to the attention of service dept next time you go in for service. They can adjust the latch so it doesn't happen or at least happen as often.
I have a 2002 Impala with an AC problem. The AC works fine until approximately 45 minutes. Then the evap coil ices and air flow is blocked. The dealer checked for leaks and recharged the system, but the problem persisted. I returned to the dealer and they said I was using the AC improperly. They said I could not use the recirculate function and the coolest temperature setting. I've used these settings in all of our other cars and never had a problem. We live in Florida and the outside temperatures have been in the 80s and 90s. We have tried the dealers suggestions of running the temperature warmer and runnning it on outside air. It does affect the time it takes to ice, but it still ices. Under the hood there is icing all the way back to the compressor. Is anyone else having this problem?
Ok, time to go to another dealer. I live in Hawaii where the temperature is in the mid 80s. I run my A/C at the coldest temperature all the time in the recirc mode and I have never iced my system. You may have to contact the GM Customer Service Center on this issue. It sounds like one of the temperature sensors are bad.
2002 Impala: When backing-up I find it very difficult to judge my movement. I had a Blazer before this car, and had no problem in the same situation. The design for the trunk height and side door line hampers viewing from mirrors. I just can't tell where the rear end is in proximity to other objects. Opinions appreciated. Thanks,
No doubt the Impala isn't the easiest car to back up, but what car is? I drove a Chrysler 300 M last week and wasn't sure where the nose or tail ended. When I taught my teen to drive I carried a post to set on the ground to help him judge where the bumpers were when parking. Now he parks better than I do.
I've got a 2000 base Impala, but those with the LS "wing" on the back report it greatly helps in judging how far out there the back of the car is. If you do a lot of parallel parking (and like the look of the wing), it might be worth looking into one aftermarket.
I've seen quite a few people on this board getting warped rotors and having them replaced under warranty (with varying degrees of success).
I've noticed worsening brake pulsating / vibration lately and mentioned that to the dealer when taking it in for the 30k maintenance this week. When picking up the car, they told the front rotors had delaminated and they replaced both under warranty.
How exactly would a rotor delaminate and what would cause that? Anyone else had issues with this? Whatever the cause, the vibration & pulsating is gone now.
Could he have said delineate, meaning the surfaces were no longer linear?
Because, even if rotors were ever "laminated" at the factory level for perhaps corrosion protection, you would not want them as such once you actually use them. The pads need to be in direct contact with the rotors.
In any case, your symptoms were that of warped rotors, and they replaced them under warranty, so you've got that goin' for ya...which is nice. Others have not had such acommodation dealers.
They did say "delaminate" - I found that strange, too, that's why the question.. But it's more of a curiosity thing; since they fixed the problem, I'm happy
Good Morning, Recently I have had a problem with my 2000 LS (32,000 miles) smoking at start up. When it first started, the car would have to sit for 2 or 3 hrs then when I turned the key there would be 2 or 3 puffs of smoke (white/blue in color)then nothing. The amount of smoke is not alot but it is enough that when there's a breeze I can watch it blow by the passenger window. I took the car in and the Chevy guys changed an intake gasket and said that it was fixed. I gave it a week after the "fix" just incase there was residual oil or something but it kept smoking at start up and even more frequently so I took it back to the garage. I just received a call from the service manager saying that he spoke with GM reps and they (the manager and the rep) figure that it's just "normal smoke" that can be expected from any car, new or old, when it is started from cold. They offered to do another test where they inject dye into the system, run the car then check the O2 sensor for dye. I'm tired of taking the car in and I plan to have them do every test they or I can think of. The warranty is up in 4000 miles and I think the garage is trying to string me along so I get stuck paying mega $$ in a few months when the car is no longer covered. Has any one had a simliar problem or does anyone have an idea of what it could be and are the chevy guy and rep trying to play me for a fool?
It sounds like oil is leaking into the cylinders when the car is sitting. It is not normal, and usually only happens to older cars from worn valve guides or seals. I suggest you take this to a higher level. Maybe get an opinion from another Chevy dealer, or better yet, a good independant shop. (Despite what some people think, the best service is not from a dealer. That's an old wive's tale. However, they are generally the only source for warranty repairs.) Then, offer the independant diagnosis to the dealer or GM/Chevy corporate consumer complaint line. Repairs to internal engine parts such as valves and cylinder heads can be very expensive. You want to take care of it now.
graypen is correct in his diagnosis and getting a second opinion. Apart from the problems he mentions, your smog equipment (O2 Sensor and Catalytic Converter) can also get screwed up. Are you using / replacing any coolant or oil? There are too many folks out there , when the problem won't respond to standard fixes, say "they all do it." 32,000 miles is way too early for any smoke! Keep us posted.
Hmmm...a 2000LS? Isn't 3 car years equivalent to about 15 human years? I think your car is just going through teenage rebellion. Time to sit it down and have a serious talk about the long-term health implications of smoking. Either that or take it back behind the shed for a lesson ;-)
Seriously though, I definitely wouldn't take the "normal smoke" response. Just look at the number of cars on the road that are much older than 3 years and they don't smoke EVER. Good luck with your battle, and let us know how it goes. Brad
Hey, Thanks for the replies, they add merit to my idea that the dealers are full of it. Not much new news, I have to pick it up today, drive for a week and then go back to see if the dye is somewhere it shouldn't be. Considered a few of the comments and once I thought about it, I realized something about the "all cars do it" line. My #2 vehicle is a 94 CK1500 extcab 5.7L Silverado and it is at 99,500 miles...how much does it smoke at start up..or ever...NADA. But hey maybe it's something new that the dealers have built in...you know the "after 30k you start smoking" feature...soon to be added to quality vehicles everywhere (ok..mid afternoon humor..what can ya expect?)
Morning Folks, Last time I wrote I was complaining about white smoke at start up. Now I am writing to ask, other then the info in the back of the owners manual are there addresses to send formal complaints to? After the third trip to the dealer and the third pile of pointless excuses I've decided that I'm not going to get anywhere at the local level and I'm going to have to contact a regional manager or higher. Not fixing the problem with the car in 3 tries is bad but the part that made up my mind about going higher is when the service punk said " If the smoke doesn't increase in volume and frequency or the car doesn't stop running completely, then it is just a waste of your time to bring the car back. Each time you bring it in you don't have it to drive and there's not much we can (or will) do if you bring it back to the service again" Is that the most pompous BS you have ever heard out of a "service professional" or what? Anyway, any info on how to reach the "big dogs" at Chevy would be appreciated.
Someone recently posted a link to a disgruntled GM customer's website concerning something called "piston slap". One of it's symptoms seems to be burning oil and smoking, among other things. He's a little verbose and rambling. But, if you get past the sort of obsessed-man-on-a-mission look of the pages, there's some interesting and helpful stuff.
Also, a neighbor told me that out of nowhere, his Chevy truck started guzzing oil. He put up a big stink, and got a new engine! They balked that there was anything wrong at first, but he pursued it. I don't remember if you're consuming oil. But, smoke at startup is entirely unacceptable for a new engine. Period. End of story.
Use this link to get to Chevy and let them know your plight. I used it myself last year when the roof strips were starting to come loose. Chevy set up everything for me via e-mail and phione with the local dealership. Chevy also did a followup with me fter the repair was done and I got a year's worth of free oil changes and tire rotations out it. The bottom line is Chevy does care and needs to know about product and service problems. Good luck and here is the web link: www.chevrolet.com/contactus/index.htm Keep us updated on your "journey".
Has anyone else had small dents appear in forward edge of padded dashtop? My 2002 Impala LS has 2 of these dents about 1 inch in diameter and about 1/8 inch deep on passenger side at the raised edge at the front of the padded portion of the dashtop. I believe these occured since we started having a lot of hot weather in the St. Louis area. I looked at another LS in a parking lot and saw one of these dents in the same location. I wonder if it is somehow related to the airbag on that side of dash.
Since I've gotten the 12k service and they rotated my tires, I have been getting a Low Tire Pressure Alert on my computer. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with this messages and if there is a fix for it. Plus I would like to know were the sensors are for monitoring the tires. Thanks Sal
Basically any time you change air pressure in your tires, you should reset the tire monitor via your radio controls in the Impala (I forget the exact procedure, but your manual will walk you through it). There is a short-cut involving the headlight switch as well, but I've never been able to remember what it is.
My understanding is the monitors work off the ABS system; they monitor each tire, and can sense when one is turning at a different speed (due to low air pressure) relative to the others. I don't think there's anything actually on the wheels of the vehicle, but I could be wrong.
I can attest to the fact that the monitor works, though. A few months ago mine went off about a mile after leaving work, I got to a service station, and sure enough - I had a low tire which had a screw in it. As it was, they patched the tire and I was on my way. Otherwise, I wouldn't have found the (by then flat) tire until I got ready to leave the next morning, which would not have been a great way to start the day.
Thanks for the info Nosirragh. I reset it using the light switch it's a lot easier. It's just funny that both times it went off I had nothing wrong with my tires. The car hadn't had this problem until my tires were rotated. I will try another reset via the radio and see what happens. Thanks again. Sal
One problem is if you air up your tires and don't reset the monitor, it may read the change as a problem. Anytime you adjust the air pressure, you should reset it (odds are they may have adjusted the air pressure when they rotated your tires).
It is really easy via the Headlight switch, just pull out the headlight switch to the parking light setting, then push it back in, repeat 2 more times and you will hear the "BEEP".. so it is.....out,in,out,in,out,in.....BEEP... the moniter is 2/3's reset, the other 3rd comes in aprox 18-20 miles as the moniter learns the rotation sequences of the newly aired tires....Voila' Don
I have a 2001 Impala (Manufactured 10/2000). I have been pleased with the car so far. I had the break problem and steering knuckle noise. They were fixed 4 months ago. Resurfaced the rotors and supposedly replaced the intermediate shaft. I checked under the hood last night, I noticed that the rubber boot covering the shaft does not have a clamp at the bottom. I am not sure if there suppose to be one; it looks loose. Also I noticed a cut in the boot. I am not sure if being loose caused this or they cut it to squirt some oil in there instead of replacing the shaft.
I have also noticed a wobbling noise coming from the front end. I noticed this a while ago, almost right after they worked on the car. But I thought it was the road noise. Yesterday, my work colleague took the car for a ride. He came back and said, “What is that ;whoa, whoa, whoa ; noise coming from the front? Now I am convinced that the noise is real. Does anyone have an idea what this may be all about?
If you've got a cut in a CV boot, odds are that's where your noise is coming from. The boots are supposed to keep lubricant/grease in the joint; if there's a slit in the boot, centrifugal force will throw the grease out, causing the joint inside to ultimately wear. The boot probably doesn't have a clamp on it (at least not something that would resemble a shiny metal hose clamp), but if there's a definite hole in the boot, I bet that's the source of the noise. And odds are if it's gotten that noisy, it won't be an inexpensive fix.
I was under the impression that he was referring to a boot on the ISS, not the CV boot on the axle half-shafts.
If it is a CV boot, they aren't expensive to have replaced. However, it should be covered under the warranty, no? Also, CV boots usually do have a metal band around each end. That's what holds it to the half-shaft, and keeps the seals tight.
If it's a boot on the ISS, then it is definitely covered under warranty, especially since the "highly-skilled and factory-trained" (ahem) technicians apparently messed up (gasp!) the simple ISS lube.
Coincedentally, I had a girlfriend that made the same "whoa whoa whoa" noise.
I just bought a 2000 LS with 37000 miles. It has the standard problems: warp routers, etc. However, I have encounter one usual problem that I hoping someone else might have seen.
If I'm playing a CD on the stock system, each time I hit the break the volume goes down and each when I accelerate the volume goes up.
I just bought a 2000 LS with 37000 miles. It has the standard problems: warp routers, etc. However, I have encounter one usual problem that I hoping someone else might have seen.
If I'm playing a CD on the stock system, each time I hit the break the volume goes down and each when I accelerate the volume goes up.
That's the normal auto-volume function. Press the auto-volume button on the stereo a few times, until the display says "off".
It's not too annoying when set to "low. It's much more subtle. Plus, with those loud Goodyear tires, it even helps a little. I can't imagine using it in high mode, though. That would drive me nuts.
A lot of the discussion I've been reading about brakes and the problems they have on the Impalas prompted me to share some information that might be helpful, or at least might shed some light on the brake problems a lot of people are having. First of all, I have a 2001 base Impala with 27k on it. At 19k I replaced the front pads with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads. The stock pads were starting to squeal a bit in stop and go driving, and while they weren't terribly worn, I was shocked at how small the actual friction surface of the pad material was....about half of the backing plate as compared to the PF pads which are about twice the amount of friction surface. Now on to some observations: The gentleman who stated that metalic and carbon-metalic pads "all squeal" is terribly wrong. The PF pads are dead silent and stop considerably better than the original pads did. I've been fortunate to not have any rotor issues, which I would have expected as I drive probably a bit harder than the average driver. Usually just resurfacing a warped rotor will not fix the problem, its a lot more complicated than that, basically brake rotors warp because the temper in one area of the rotor is different then the rest of the rotor. When subjected to thermal(heat) stress or mechanical stress (like unevenly or over-tightened lug nuts) the rotor warps. Turning or truing the rotor will alleviate warps that exist when the rotor is cold, but will not solve the problem when hot, the uneven temper still exists within the substrate. The only permanent solution is to replace the rotor. As far as cross-drilled rotors are concerned, dont waste your money. They do nothing to improve braking, nor are they any less likely to warp than non-drilled ones. Actually the holes, no matter how carefully drilled or chamfered, are potential stress risers in the surface of the rotor, which means a great place for cracks to develop. As for their "racing heritage" go to any auto race where heavy sedan-type cars subject their brakes to heavy use every lap. Ideally something like the SCCA Trans-Am series or any NASCAR race that they run on a road course would be a good place. You will not see a single cross-drilled rotor on any of those cars. You will see some slots in the surfaces and those are useful for reliving the gasses that the pads expel when hot. Oh, and the myth that the cross-drilled holes allow air to cool the pads is bunk as well, there is no cool air coming out of the middle of a rotor in use! Again, look and see that the people who really use their brakes the hardest rely on as much cool air ducted from high-pressure areas of the bodywork and aim it squarely at the rotor and caliper. So, if you brakes pulsate, replace the rotors......period. If you're spending the money yourself, get something like the PowerSlot rotors, not as much for the slots as for the fact that they're made for "performance" use, which usually means when the rotors are cast at the foundry they are allowed to cool in the molds longer than the "cheaper" rotors. This allows them to temper more evenly than ones that are pulled from the molds quicker. A more even temper means they withstand higher temperatures better. It also means they cost more because the longer you leave them in the molds the fewer you can produce, so the production costs are higher. So, the best bet for good, trouble-free brakes for what is basically a big heavy car would be good pads (I'm prejudiced but I think the Performance Friction ones are the best) and good rotors, proper care and torquing of the wheels and realizing that you don't have the braking system of a Trans-Am or NASCAR sedan, and driving accordingly. P.S for you people who ride the brake pedal with your left foot......stop it! That builds up heat at an alarming rate, and you'll be warping rotors regularly, no matter what car you drive.
Comments
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
Thanks
My wife says the trunk has come unlatched a couple times while driving, has anybody else had that problem? I think she is hitting the button with her knee.
A disk brake doesn't have a retraction spring. Brake release depends on the caliper being able to respond to a puny little retraction force from the rubber O-ring around the piston. If there's binding at the pins, the piston in the bore, or the sliding surface between the caliper and the knuckle, the pads drag and wear out prematurely. My cars have worn out brakes from binding at each of these places.
If you don't disassemble the calipers on the earlier cars and clean them when you replace the pads, you probably won't get the full life from the pads. Current brakes may be the same.
We got substantial rain this past weekend and when I got into the Impala, the front passenger floor was wet and beaded with water. I thought I left a window cracked but that wasn't the case.
When the courtesy lamps are on, I could see a bead of water rolling on the surface of the foot lamp. Seems that I have a leak that is making its way through the dash...
I plan on calling the dealer tonight to have them look at it. Not too thrilled as I cringe at the notion of them dismantling the dash! I hope this isn't a sign of things to come. I opted out of a moonroof because of leaks! Sweet irony!
We will see....
RR
Thanks for the info Nathan! I found the report on the "Problems" page. I am taking the info along with me to the dealer.
Great resource for us Impalaphiles!
Thanks again!
RR
Forrest
They explained that a cowl seal was the culprit of the leak and "re-attached" it. They also replaced the blower fan/motor and the cabin filter because of water damage. To be honest, the blower was fine - but he said that it may short due to the moisture so they swapper it - VERY COOL OF THEM.
Anyway, I got a call from the service dept. and he advised me that there was carbon build-up on the injectors and throttle ((bodies?)) I forget the exact term on the service invoice). So they cleaned all of that with some "M.O.C." cleaner. Anyone know what that is??
I can't say I notice a difference in the ride. I didn't notice any issues before tehy told me about the carbon issues. I would assume that carbon build-up is totally normal - goes with the territory of a gasoline combustion engine, right?
Well, the dealer was great. Best service dept. I have ever worked with. The hours are even better 7am - 2am How is that for convenience!
Will have to wait for the bnext torrential downpour to see if the cowl seal is completely attached this time.
Take care!
RR
Every car I have ever bought, for me and my wife have been chevys. In HS, 62 Impala, then a 71 Nova SS, my first new car,(I loved that car), then when 1st child came traded to 79 Caprice Classic (this also had a bad trans replaced, the metric class action suit), then a 91 Caprice Classic that later became the wifes car; and a used Lumina Z34(mine) and a 99 Malibu when the Caprice traded in and finally when my oldest totaled the Z34 Memorial day weekend 1999 I bought 2000 Impala LS. I have always loved Chevy, keep the cars for at least 85,000 miles. Had over 100K on the 79 Caprice and over 110K on the 91 Caprice. The engines never die if oil changed every 3-4K miles. Transmissions on the other hand suck.
ALSO: I had the 'clunking' and they did the shim fix and all ok so far. Never had a problem with rotors, still have originals. Have not had to have a brake job yet. No leaks anywhere as others have reported. Did have the air blower replaced in 6/2000. I think I may have been one of the first to report a problem with the blower. It whined just like the ones in the 91 Caprice. They try to tell you it may be leaves touching the fan or something like that but the axis for the fan is metal and to housing is plastic and metal against plastic eventually makes noise.
Well, bring it to the attention of service dept next time you go in for service. They can adjust the latch so it doesn't happen or at least happen as often.
That's a load of Bull-oney. Too bad Teo no longer posts here. He lives in FL. I'm sure he'd tell you his AC runs perfectly.
Find a different dealer for service.
I've noticed worsening brake pulsating / vibration lately and mentioned that to the dealer when taking it in for the 30k maintenance this week. When picking up the car, they told the front rotors had delaminated and they replaced both under warranty.
How exactly would a rotor delaminate and what would cause that? Anyone else had issues with this? Whatever the cause, the vibration & pulsating is gone now.
Because, even if rotors were ever "laminated" at the factory level for perhaps corrosion protection, you would not want them as such once you actually use them. The pads need to be in direct contact with the rotors.
In any case, your symptoms were that of warped rotors, and they replaced them under warranty, so you've got that goin' for ya...which is nice. Others have not had such acommodation dealers.
Recently I have had a problem with my 2000 LS (32,000 miles) smoking at start up. When it first started, the car would have to sit for 2 or 3 hrs then when I turned the key there would be 2 or 3 puffs of smoke (white/blue in color)then nothing. The amount of smoke is not alot but it is enough that when there's a breeze I can watch it blow by the passenger window.
I took the car in and the Chevy guys changed an intake gasket and said that it was fixed. I gave it a week after the "fix" just incase there was residual oil or something but it kept smoking at start up and even more frequently so I took it back to the garage. I just received a call from the service manager saying that he spoke with GM reps and they (the manager and the rep) figure that it's just "normal smoke" that can be expected from any car, new or old, when it is started from cold. They offered to do another test where they inject dye into the system, run the car then check the O2 sensor for dye. I'm tired of taking the car in and I plan to have them do every test they or I can think of. The warranty is up in 4000 miles and I think the garage is trying to string me along so I get stuck paying mega $$ in a few months when the car is no longer covered.
Has any one had a simliar problem or does anyone have an idea of what it could be and are the chevy guy and rep trying to play me for a fool?
thanks for any input
I suggest you take this to a higher level. Maybe get an opinion from another Chevy dealer, or better yet, a good independant shop. (Despite what some people think, the best service is not from a dealer. That's an old wive's tale. However, they are generally the only source for warranty repairs.)
Then, offer the independant diagnosis to the dealer or GM/Chevy corporate consumer complaint line.
Repairs to internal engine parts such as valves and cylinder heads can be very expensive. You want to take care of it now.
There are too many folks out there , when the problem won't respond to standard fixes, say "they all do it." 32,000 miles is way too early for any smoke!
Keep us posted.
Seriously though, I definitely wouldn't take the "normal smoke" response. Just look at the number of cars on the road that are much older than 3 years and they don't smoke EVER. Good luck with your battle, and let us know how it goes.
Brad
Thanks for the replies, they add merit to my idea that the dealers are full of it.
Not much new news, I have to pick it up today, drive for a week and then go back to see if the dye is somewhere it shouldn't be.
Considered a few of the comments and once I thought about it, I realized something about the "all cars do it" line. My #2 vehicle is a 94 CK1500 extcab 5.7L Silverado and it is at 99,500 miles...how much does it smoke at start up..or ever...NADA. But hey maybe it's something new that the dealers have built in...you know the "after 30k you start smoking" feature...soon to be added to quality vehicles everywhere (ok..mid afternoon humor..what can ya expect?)
I'll keep everyone informed as to how things go.
Nutz
There is something wrong inside that engine. Period.
Do not accept "no" for an answer.
Oh...that's two things.
Last time I wrote I was complaining about white smoke at start up. Now I am writing to ask, other then the info in the back of the owners manual are there addresses to send formal complaints to? After the third trip to the dealer and the third pile of pointless excuses I've decided that I'm not going to get anywhere at the local level and I'm going to have to contact a regional manager or higher.
Not fixing the problem with the car in 3 tries is bad but the part that made up my mind about going higher is when the service punk said " If the smoke doesn't increase in volume and frequency or the car doesn't stop running completely, then it is just a waste of your time to bring the car back. Each time you bring it in you don't have it to drive and there's not much we can (or will) do if you bring it back to the service again"
Is that the most pompous BS you have ever heard out of a "service professional" or what?
Anyway, any info on how to reach the "big dogs" at Chevy would be appreciated.
http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/
Also, a neighbor told me that out of nowhere, his Chevy truck started guzzing oil. He put up a big stink, and got a new engine! They balked that there was anything wrong at first, but he pursued it. I don't remember if you're consuming oil. But, smoke at startup is entirely unacceptable for a new engine. Period. End of story.
Keep us updated on your "journey".
My understanding is the monitors work off the ABS system; they monitor each tire, and can sense when one is turning at a different speed (due to low air pressure) relative to the others. I don't think there's anything actually on the wheels of the vehicle, but I could be wrong.
I can attest to the fact that the monitor works, though. A few months ago mine went off about a mile after leaving work, I got to a service station, and sure enough - I had a low tire which had a screw in it. As it was, they patched the tire and I was on my way. Otherwise, I wouldn't have found the (by then flat) tire until I got ready to leave the next morning, which would not have been a great way to start the day.
I have also noticed a wobbling noise coming from the front end. I noticed this a while ago, almost right after they worked on the car. But I thought it was the road noise. Yesterday, my work colleague took the car for a ride. He came back and said, “What is that ;whoa, whoa, whoa ; noise coming from the front? Now I am convinced that the noise is real. Does anyone have an idea what this may be all about?
If it is a CV boot, they aren't expensive to have replaced. However, it should be covered under the warranty, no? Also, CV boots usually do have a metal band around each end. That's what holds it to the half-shaft, and keeps the seals tight.
If it's a boot on the ISS, then it is definitely covered under warranty, especially since the "highly-skilled and factory-trained" (ahem) technicians apparently messed up (gasp!) the simple ISS lube.
Coincedentally, I had a girlfriend that made the same "whoa whoa whoa" noise.
I just bought a 2000 LS with 37000 miles. It has the standard problems: warp routers, etc. However, I have encounter one usual problem that I hoping someone else might have seen.
If I'm playing a CD on the stock system, each time I hit the break the volume goes down and each when I accelerate the volume goes up.
Talk about weird. Any help would be great.
Thanks!
BH
I just bought a 2000 LS with 37000 miles. It has the standard problems: warp routers, etc. However, I have encounter one usual problem that I hoping someone else might have seen.
If I'm playing a CD on the stock system, each time I hit the break the volume goes down and each when I accelerate the volume goes up.
Talk about weird. Any help would be great.
Thanks!
BH
It's not too annoying when set to "low. It's much more subtle. Plus, with those loud Goodyear tires, it even helps a little. I can't imagine using it in high mode, though. That would drive me nuts.
First of all, I have a 2001 base Impala with 27k on it. At 19k I replaced the front pads with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads. The stock pads were starting to squeal a bit in stop and go driving, and while they weren't terribly worn, I was shocked at how small the actual friction surface of the pad material was....about half of the backing plate as compared to the PF pads which are about twice the amount of friction surface.
Now on to some observations: The gentleman who stated that metalic and carbon-metalic pads "all squeal" is terribly wrong. The PF pads are dead silent and stop considerably better than the original pads did. I've been fortunate to not have any rotor issues, which I would have expected as I drive probably a bit harder than the average driver.
Usually just resurfacing a warped rotor will not fix the problem, its a lot more complicated than that, basically brake rotors warp because the temper in one area of the rotor is different then the rest of the rotor. When subjected to thermal(heat) stress or mechanical stress (like unevenly or over-tightened lug nuts) the rotor warps. Turning or truing the rotor will alleviate warps that exist when the rotor is cold, but will not solve the problem when hot, the uneven temper still exists within the substrate. The only permanent solution is to replace the rotor.
As far as cross-drilled rotors are concerned, dont waste your money. They do nothing to improve braking, nor are they any less likely to warp than non-drilled ones. Actually the holes, no matter how carefully drilled or chamfered, are potential stress risers in the surface of the rotor, which means a great place for cracks to develop. As for their "racing heritage" go to any auto race where heavy sedan-type cars subject their brakes to heavy use every lap. Ideally something like the SCCA Trans-Am series or any NASCAR race that they run on a road course would be a good place. You will not see a single cross-drilled rotor on any of those cars. You will see some slots in the surfaces and those are useful for reliving the gasses that the pads expel when hot. Oh, and the myth that the cross-drilled holes allow air to cool the pads is bunk as well, there is no cool air coming out of the middle of a rotor in use! Again, look and see that the people who really use their brakes the hardest rely on as much cool air ducted from high-pressure areas of the bodywork and aim it squarely at the rotor and caliper.
So, if you brakes pulsate, replace the rotors......period. If you're spending the money yourself, get something like the PowerSlot rotors, not as much for the slots as for the fact that they're made for "performance" use, which usually means when the rotors are cast at the foundry they are allowed to cool in the molds longer than the "cheaper" rotors. This allows them to temper more evenly than ones that are pulled from the molds quicker. A more even temper means they withstand higher temperatures better. It also means they cost more because the longer you leave them in the molds the fewer you can produce, so the production costs are higher.
So, the best bet for good, trouble-free brakes for what is basically a big heavy car would be good pads (I'm prejudiced but I think the Performance Friction ones are the best) and good rotors, proper care and torquing of the wheels and realizing that you don't have the braking system of a Trans-Am or NASCAR sedan, and driving accordingly.
P.S for you people who ride the brake pedal with your left foot......stop it! That builds up heat at an alarming rate, and you'll be warping rotors regularly, no matter what car you drive.