Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

dennisw3

Someone commented that during a service visit the dealer tried to convince them that their injectors were covered with carbon and required a "M.O.C." treatment hopefully told them no. This is one of those money-making schemes that has been put in place at many dealerships to make a quick profit. Its nothing more than some injector cleaner that they charge up to $150 per "treatment" for.
I took a '96 Z28 to a chevy dealer after it failed an emissions check with high hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel). They told me there was nothing wrong with the car, but because it was driven so little (8000 miles in 5 years) that it was "all carboned up" and that was why it failed. Of course their solution was the M.O.C. treatment for $167. First of all, I know that the car was NOT "carboned up"... I make sure of that regularly when I drive it!!!
It turned out that the AIR pump had failed, and both of the Catalytic converters had failed from all of the unburnt fuel allowed to build up in them while the motor was warming up. Also the OBD-II system was malfunctioning and not properly monitoring the cats and O2 sensors, so no warnings were ever shown. All of these issues were of course covered by the GM emissions warranty, but all the dealer wanted was to get $167 from me for something that wouldn't even come close to fixing the problem. Of course it WOULD have made them more money than they probably made on all the repairs they actually did have to do on the car.
Put a can of any good brand fuel injector cleaner in your tank maybe once a year, twice a year if you do nothing more than a lot of stop-&-go puttering around town and you'll be fine

roderacer

my dealer told me I had carbon build-up when I tyook it in for the 15K service. Of course they recommended the MOC and I obliged. DOH!

But honestly, the Impala's acceleration got more responsive afterwards. The fuel filter was also replaced.

Thanks for the info, dennisw3. I will keep that in mind next time.

roderacer

at 21K on my LS now, I get little squeals when braking stop and go traffic makes them squeak just before coming to a complete stop.

I have thought about replacing the pads and plan to do so before Winter.

nosirrahg

Except for turning my front rotors at some point last year, I'm still running with the same brakes that came with the car 41k miles ago. So far no problems. Any idea as to how long I should expect the stock pads/rotors to last before I have to replace them?

dgonzalez13

I had my brake pads replaced for first time at around 33k miles, so 41k miles is pretty good in my book. I drive mostly city driving, so they were killed quicker. If you are on the highway or long open country, expect another 5-7k miles, cant imagine hitting 50k. If you do, that would be great. Anyone recommend brake pads/rotors for heavy city driving. Maybe even something built for heavy duty use?

[Deleted User]

Fuel injector, fuel system, and air intake cleaning gives REAL benefit, if the injectors are clogged, valves dirty, or throttle body fouled with carbon. That's a fact. I wouldn't pay a dealer $167 for it, though.

Usually, using a GOOD injector cleaner like Red Line SI-1 or BG 44K will clean out the injectors. Manually spraying an air intake cleaner into the throttle bottle will clean the intake. And, a GOOD oil additive, such as BG MOA or RF7 or even Marvel Mystery Oil (which, by the way is good at removing carbon, when added to the gas tank), can keep the crankcase clean.

You should always change your oil after using using a good fuel system cleaner. Much of the displaced carbon ends up in the oil.

martyv1

HI all.

I have an '01 Impala LS with 32,000+ miles (bought used at 29,000+) build date 1/01. I have read the posts and links regarding an ISS problem. I feel a slight (hard to describe) jolt or maybe a clunk in the steering wheel -when driving. It does not seem related to any particular direction or speed and definitely do not hear anything or feel anything in the brake pedal.

Could this just be normal road feel I am getting? Am I becoming paranoid with all the posts I have read on problems?

Car also had low coolant light come on for 5 seconds when driving ( I have put 3,000 miles on car since getting it). Coolant reservoir bottle was very low. Chevy dealer said the coolant level might have been overlooked when they got the car into the shop. I added a pint of Dex Cool/water mix as per manual. But I have a tough time seeing where the coolant level is due to the bottles position. No coolant on ground and car engine temp did not go up when low coolant light came on.

Any comments?

nosirrahg

As I recall, I first noticed my ISS problem at low speeds, especially when turning to the right while braking. It progressed from there to the point that I'd feel it on speed bumps and such, and it began to make noise that passengers could hear. It felt like a suspension problem; like a tire was grossly overinflated, or a strut had come loose. I had mine replaced under warranty on my 2000 model, and haven't had any problems since (knock simulated wood).

Had a brief period last year when I smelled coolant in the garage, but never found any leaking. Saw the level was low, and topped it off with Dexcool, but my indicator light never came on. Never had a problem since; hoping it was just a one-time fluke.

martyv1

Thanks nosirrahg for the info. I don't feel or hear anything like you described on the ISS issue. Maybe I am just feeling the rack and pinnion steering. The feeling in the steering wheel is nothing like you describe and the brake is not involved at all.

I hope my coolant was just low too. Thanks for the reply.

Marty

martyv1

Thanks nosirrahg for the info. I don't feel or hear anything like you described on the ISS issue. Maybe I am just feeling the rack and pinnion steering. The feeling in the steering wheel is nothing like you describe and the brake is not involved at all.

I hope my coolant was just low too. Thanks for the reply.

Marty

craigindc

Teo, ScottinTulsa, All - Per Teo's advice, had my Impala's (built 10/2000) ISS/rack replaced in Nov 2001. Car drove PERFECTly...new, tight, nimble. However, last spring, early symptoms began to reoccur. Took it in last month and they "lubed it and tightened it up," and told me to see how it felt. I don't think it did anything. However, rather than something "tapping, progressing over time to banging" on the steering column, it now seems like a pronounced CREAKING - mostly felt through the wheel. In addition to when turning/accelerating, can also feel it when stopping, wheels straight. Could it be the cradle/suspension thing? I subscribe to Alldata DIY and haven't seen any TSBs on that. BTW - the ROTORS were completely warped at 20-25K miles, so they turned them last month when I had it in for the ISS. Anyone have any thoughts on the CREAKING? Otherwise, I love this car and want to make it right. THANKS for any help/info you may have. TEO! Help! ;+>

nosirrahg

Do you feel the creaking only in the steering wheel? Could be they might have over-tightened something in the steering when they worked on it. I think I'd hope for that over a cradle/suspension problem.

martyv1

Ok so I had the Low Coolant light come on for 10 sec. at 31000+ mi. Reserv. bottle was low. Added 1 pt. of mix to bring it to around the cold mark - engine was still warn then. After 300+ miles - coolant level was below cold mark again - added 1 qt. (No coolant on ground - no coolant smell. Could this be normal - coolant was low and I should have added a full qt or more the first time? Bought car at 29000+ mi. I will have dealer check for leak - intake manifold gasket. leak - no evidence of coolant around oil cap - and no smoke out of tail pipe.

Any comments

craigindc

I had the same mysterious loss of coolant last fall at about 14K miles...had carefully mixed the special coolant with purified water, added it, only to find two months later, low again. No coolant on garage floor, none on parking space at work. Asked them to look at it while in for the steering thing. Svc mgr said my car had left factory w/one of the hoses loose. They'd pressure tested, found the leak, and tightened the hose. HOWEVER, when I'd gone in prior to buy the special coolant (Dexron?) the guy in the parts dept said, "Well...if there's nothing on the ground, you know what you've got then!" I wasn't sure, and at the time I was afraid to ask. Could it be leaking into the engine? Mine has gone down a *little* since they tightened the hose, but don't know if I should worry. FYI - I always check when engine is cold, car level. I would be persistent w/service dept. Most I ever had to add was 2 cups. CCD

martyv1

I have had coolant losses problem before with a GrandAm "95 with same 3.1 V6 as in my '95 Lumina. Mechanic told me there was coolant in the engine (at 96,000 mi +) - evident by crud around oil cap. Car ran for another 40,000mi. + and was used as a trade in. I am more suspect that the coolant was not properly filled at the factory or there is a manifold gasket leak. Always best to track the problem down while under warranty.

martyv1

So far so good. Took my Impala in for the dealer to check on the ISS problem (was feeling and somtimes hearing a clunking sound in the steering ) and possible coolant loss.

They gave me a free loaner. I bought the car used with 29000mi on it and the dealer gave me a free loaner (an Olds Intrigue). My last Chevy dealer never did that! What a difference. Now the acid test - will they find the problem and fix it. Keeping my fingers crossed.

craigindc

Martyv1 - glad to hear dealer is taking care of you...keep us posted on what they find. FYI on my steering - took in yesterday, still working on it today, have rental. They were able to duplicate my problem (whew!). Svc Mgr says it is the rack/rack & pinion steering..were going to replace it, but said GM just issued a buletin specifying use of a special tool to correct. They were hunting down the tool yesterday.

martyv1

Ok folks - so I am back from the dealer. They found loose and misaligned hose - mechanic found a drip leak - small. Why was there no coolant on the ground - Serv. Advisor could not say. The ISS was pulled and repacked with GM lube kit. Serv. Advisor stated that after so many ISS were pulled from '00 models - they looked at the problem and found the ISS needed to be repacked with lube. I am skeptical but what can you do.

I will keep track of both ISS and coolant - If I have further problems I may go to an independent mechanic I know - get his opinion then go to the dealer. I hope the problems are solved as I really like this car and the ride.

lmattina

I would like to know if I could go to any muffler shop to replace my exhaust system?

I also seem to have a short in my horn. I get a clicking sound when I try to hook up the relay.

I really need to know of a good mechanic in the Belleville NJ area.

lghong67

Hello,

I own an Impala 2000 LS with approx. 34K miles. The problem: Several times when driving between northern and southern California, I have found that the car would not shift to the overdrive gear. Perhaps more accurately, it was as if the transmission was "stuck." As a result, I was driving approx. 75mph and the engine was running at 3200rpm (and worrying). I also noticed that this problem seemed to occur when the engine temp was rather high. The problem would seem to go away after a bit -- when the engine temp went down as well.

I did take it to the dealer for this problem once, but they said that they could find nothing wrong. Has anybody heard of such a problem? I skimmed a number of the previous posts, but didn't see anything similar.

Thanks in advance, LH

macgyver24

The past three days, the Check Engine light on my 2000 Impala with 74,000km (46,000mi) has been coming on. I finally took it into a local dealer (not where I bought it) where they informed me that the trouble code was relating to the EGR (Exhaust gas recirculation) valve. The price to replace it including labour was $242CAD. The consequence of not fixing it is slightly lousy fuel economy, since the exhaust gases are not being passed through the engine a second time and being burned. I elected not to have the work done at this time, they saw me right away, cleared the trouble code and charged me $50 which I thought was fair. It's possible that the error code is false, so only time will tell.

Has anybody else had a problem with the EGR valve?

[Deleted User]

Canada doesn't have a federally mandated extended warranty on emission-related parts? Too bad. In the US, that repair would probably be free.

BTW, another consequence of a faulty EGR valve is smog test failure if the exhaust gases are not being burned (I don't know how stringent it is up there in Canadia), and rough idling/low speed performance if the gases are getting back into the engine at idle/low speeds (They're only supposed to be recycled at higher speeds).

sweigard

Canadian warranty says 8-year / 130,000km on catalytic converters and powertrain contol modules.

[Deleted User]

They usually list all the parts covered under the emission warranty. I would check whether or not the EGR valve and related parts (solenoid, etc?) are covered.

macgyver24

Thanks for mentioning the emission warranty. I checked the emission warranty, it lists about 150 different components that are covered - but only until 60,000km. There are only a few parts that are covered until 130,000km, including the catalytic converter itself, engine computer, etc. parts that are not likely to fail for a very long time.

We do have emission testing (drive clean) in Ontario for cars older than 3 years and less than 20 years. Your vehicle must be tested once every two years if you want to renew your plates. I know the Impala will flunk the Drive Clean test without the EGR, but I don't have to do the test until next May. So the repair isn't -that- urgent.

Thanks again as always, friends!

nutz4ls

Greetings One and ALL,
I was quite surprised to see the recent posts. Just last night I spoke with a friend regarding my smoking at start up and he suggested that perhaps there is coolant leaking into the oil/engine. I figure I would write the possibility here today but it seems that a few others have had the problem already.
First, I missed it in the posts so can someone define the "ISS problem" that is mentioned?
Second can anyone with the oil/coolant problem tell me everything they know about it...ie the signs that it was happening, the way you convinced the dealer to check for it and the eventual fix if one exists?
For those who didn't read my posts about 40 posts back, I have a 2000 LS that smokes at start up after sitting for a few hours. I've been to the service station 3 times and most recently "had words" with the service manager of BELL MOTOR CO. MD after I called and he ranted in a rude manner that "I've looked at your DAMN car 3 times and there's nothing wrong or nothing we can do" he continued on with "We've seen the smoke at start up and we feel it is within the specs offered by Chevy as "normal operation"" I usually don't go off too much but I couldn't let that one go. I proceeded with (I'll drop the expletives for web sake) "I may not be the professional who charges $65/hr to so called fix cars but even I know that when I turn the key and my trunk disappears into a cloud...something aint right".
I have an appointment with a different dealer for Weds afternoon and I would appreciate any information regarding the ISS ? And the oil/coolant problem so maybe I'll have half a chance at convincing this garage that there is a problem.

thanks

[Deleted User]

Once these guys get into that "It's normal, they all do that" mode, they ain't budging. Hopefully, your new dealer will see the problem for what it is, without you having to rant and rave.

I had one dealer tell me the wobbling drivers seat was perfectly normal. I went to another, and they ordered the parts and fixed it. Night and day between the two dealers.

Maybe you'll have a similar experience. Either way, you need to escalate this problem. Smoke at startup indicates either oil or water in the engine. (Oil has a strong odor.) Either is bad, especially on a new car.

craigindc

You'd know it already if you were affected, but ISS is the "intermediate steering shaft." Something is wrong with them on most 2000s and some 2001s. The result is a tapping/knocking/clunking sensation felt - sometimes heard - thru the steering wheel...especially when turning while accelerating or braking. Feels like something banging against the steering column. Had mine replaced last Nov - was perfect for ~6 mos., then recurred, but not as bad. Lubed and tightened in August, but didn't do much. NOW, they've got a part on order - Bob Peck in Arlington VA - says some steering gear didn't leave the factory fully blown-out/cleaned out - this part will clean it out. We'll see.

Totally agree with garypen re different dealers. Be cool, but persistent. Go to another dealer and take it to the next level. We're their customers and they should be happy we're buying their vehicles. Good luck...keep us posted.

night_owl1

If you feel that the service manager did not handle himself in a professional manner, send a letter to the dealership general manager. Inform the addressee of your concerns, both about the inability of the service department to correct the problem with your vehicle and the treatment you received. Request that you receive a response to your letter by a set time, a week or two. Also state that while you wish to resolve this at the dealer level, your next step will be to contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center. Fax a copy to the dealer and send a copy registered mail.

It is amazing how fast attitudes change and things move when a paper trail starts. A friend of mine purchased a new car from a local dealer and just found out that the car had been sold to someone, had a problem that the dealer couldn't fix, was exchanged for a new car, then was sold to him as a new car. He spent a week trying to get a straight answer. He would get handed off to different people and no one would return his calls (including the owner of the dealership). After we drafted a letter, always using professional but firm language, he faxed it to the owner and went to lunch. When he got back, there were messages from the owner, sales manager, and general manager all asking him to return their calls.

[Deleted User]

I hope they offered to replace his car with an actual new car, or refund a commensurate amount of money.

night_owl1

They are working it out right now. I always thought those stories about the dirty-dealing, deceptive, sneaky car dealers was a myth. I guess not.

[Deleted User]

You guess right.

bearmer

I can't tell whether your smoke is oil or steam. A puff of oil smoke at startup is usually caused by worn out valve seals. They are rubber rings around the valve stems which stop oil from flowing down the stems into the combustion chambers when the car is stopped. It's only a little oil, not enough to change the oil consumption of the engine, but it makes a visible puff.

The 3.8L isn't known for wearing out the seals, but I've heard that an episode of overheating can burn them. The dealer can tell if this has occurred and if he hasn't mentioned it, it probably hasn't. The ECM records the event and there's also a thermal indicator on the block which melts. Damaged valve seals are usually replaced so that the repeated oil burning won't poison the catalytic conterter.

If the smoke is steam, it's from antifreeze in the cylinders. The only way I know of that it can get there is a head gasket leak. I've seen a few reports of the 3.8L intake plenum gasket leaking but I don't think it lets the coolant into the cylinders; it drains into the valve gallery, contaminating the crankcase. The other Chev V-6, the 3.4L family, has a bad reputation for intake plenum gasket leaks and when it happens it's serious. If your engine has antifreeze in the cylinders, it will drift past the rings into the crankcase, too.

Antifreeze in the crankcase becomes visible as emulsified oil clinging to the interior of the valve covers. You can see it and touch it through the oil filler hole. It looks like dirty mayonnaise. This isn't what causes the engine damage, though. Ethylene glycol is a petroleum derivative which is miscible with the oil but changes it's lubricating properties. The engine soon suffers extensive friction damage which can't be repaired.

I don't know what a "normal" puff of smoke is. I have a 3.8L (in a Lumina) but I've never seen any smoke. If your car is under warrenty and the dealer continues to stonewall you, I'd suggest an oil analysis which will cost you 20 or 30 dollars and will tell you if there's an antifreeze leak. It will also tell you if the dissolved metals are signalling bearing damage.

Everything I've mentioned is serious and expensive to fix so I hope you won't give up until you're satisfied that the engine's really okay. Good luck.

[Deleted User]

The dealer can tell if this has occurred and if he hasn't mentioned it, it probably hasn't.

Would that be before or after he's tells you it's normal and they all do that? I have a feeling they didn't even get that far in this instance. He needs to find a different dealer.

nutz4ls

Greetings,
I have the LS at a different dealer today and likely through the weekend. I provided a very suggestive summary of the problems....suggetive in a manner that would steer the service guy toward the problem without outright saying "fix this and that"....gotta try to make them feel important even when you're telling them about things they wouldn't catch on their own.
With any luck the problem will be solved and I can go about with more Chevy friendly comments, however...if I get a BS story or turn the key and see smoke, I will be getting the oil analysis and then maybe a some legal advice.
"BEARMER" you're right, I'm not going to drop this until I feel the car is running proper and I'm out danger as far as high priced engine repairs go.
I also have the service guy checking the HVAC and the paint. The HVAC since no matter how well I clean the windows, an hour with the vents on and I have a film on the inside of the glass that makes driving not so pleasant. The paint, since I have noticed, aside from the obvious road damage (pebbles and stuff)that it would appear the paint is beginning to "spider" beneath the clear coat in a few areas....especially bad looking on a black car.

Ok, gotta run..I hope to hear from the dealer this afternoon...for once let it be good news

Nutz

nutz4ls

Just spoke to the 2nd service station and they found that the manifold was warped and was allowing coolant to mix with the oil. They also think that it played a role in the ever present film that I had on the inside of my windshield. I'm going to pick it up and give it a week, just in case there's a bit of residual coolant or something, to see if the smoke stops. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
Any information regarding the quality of the paint and the cheap "12 month/12,000 mile" limit on paint defects?? I have defects but they haven't turned to rust yet so the service place said I'm outta luck.
My next concern is having the documentation to show that coolant got into the oil and into the engine. I'll need it in case the engine goes bad after the 3/36 is done.

thanks
nutz

[Deleted User]

Definitely get that documentation. You may possibly have problems down the line, as your car was being driven while not properly lubricated.
I hope they flushed the crankcase, changed the oil and filter, and removed and cleaned the pan, in addition to replacing that manifold gasket.

I would insist on a second FREE oil change, to make sure the crankcase is free of coolant.

macgyver24

Well, after a 700 mile road trip the check engine light is coming on and staying on once in a while when the car is started. Looks like that EGR is coming out....

macgyver24

Now the check engine light is not coming on anymore. It's driving me crazy (pun intended)

calgalred2

2000 Base Impala (35,000 miles) has had new brakes, green hub caps replaced, steering column oiled and coiled. Whine very annoying but not grinding like some others have been. Shop wants to hear the squeeling-anyone else been dealing with this type of problem recently? Thanks

[Deleted User]

The steering column was coiled? What does that mean? By "oiled" I assume you mean the lube fix for the shaft. No idea what "coiled" means, though.

As for whine, it can often be caused by something as simple as low fluid level. Of course, low fluid level would mean a possible leak somewhere.

It might be a bad PS pump. Maybe a bad or loose PS pump belt. Check the rack too. You only have 1000 miles left on that warranty, so get it taken care of soon!

calgalred2

Yes, something was lubed the first time, "Sir Coil" kit 14.865 & Cam 2.896 replaced. Also had several rips in skin on door panels. Color Tech came to shop and did an excellant repair(can't tell they were there)-but I got to pay for those.

jhavign

I have had the intermediate steering shaft replaced on my 2000 LS when it was a year old. It's almost out of warranty and I'm nervous about it going again. Has anyone else had the steering shaft replaced more than once?

dgonzalez13

Took about 45 minutes to do. I followed www.impalahq.com's instructions on removing the dash trim/instruemnt cluster trim. Cluster is held on by only 4 screws. The hard part was the wiring connector. The cluster interfaces the car through one small green cluster of cables that terminate in a plug. There is a blue retainer holding the plug in place so it will not fall off with normal vibrations. I removed the Blue retainer, and then unplugged the green bundle. It only fits in one way, so i was not worried about direction. Anyway, I replaced the cluster, turned on the car, and realized everything worked normally. Fuel, speed, and temp were all correct. However, the mileage was not carried over to the cluster so i may need to go to my dealer to have him sync it to the correct mileage. It feels wierd to know i have 58K miles when i see 10k on the readout. Everything seems to work fine, however i am concerned about the speed readout. I have to drive by a police radar sign on the highway to get a better reading on if it is accurate or not. Otherwise, i am very happy with the results. Works just the same as the old one, but with a higher MPH readout which i will never hit anyway.

[Deleted User]

Works just the same as the old one, but with a higher MPH readout which i will never hit anyway.

Obviously it was money well spent.

dgonzalez13

I am not the auto-mechanic type. So for me to actually learn how to take apart the dash, clear up a wiring short behind my stereo or learn to swap out the cluster it's a cool thing to be able to do. I could add neon lights, big wheels, and a custom paint job, but i go in a different direction with my favorite car in the whoooole world. I love being able to do some of this stuff myself. And if not for other people doing it and posting descriptions (like www.impalahq.com) it would be a half day experience to try to figure some of these things out.

[Deleted User]

How much did it cost?

dgonzalez13

Was only $68. A junk yard/tow wrecker posts the parts on ebay so i keep an eye out every week for used impala parts. But right now the budget is tight, so the cluster was a cool learning experience and practice in removing the dash. Last summer i had a short behind the factory stereo in the dash and couldnt' afford the $150 for the car stereo guy to look at it. so i used instructions someone had posted to open it up and found an exposed set of wires back there. Yes, i could have taken it to the dealer, but i purchased my car in Pennsylvania and live in Brooklyn, so a long drive with no radio was out of the question. My 2000 Impala busted through the warranty 8 thousand miles ago (58k miles now).

[Deleted User]

As an ex-Brooklynite myself, I'm surprised your stereo wiring wasn't exposed a long time ago. ;-)

koolerb

I was at Pete Luger's just last week. Good place.