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Comments
FWIW I bought the pads at AutoZone and replaced them myself, which was a fairly easy task (once I got my jack stands and such together). They weren't that expensive (maybe $40 per axle), and I think they have a lifetime warranty.
The last GM car I owned ('84 Buick Skyhawk) had to have new brake pads about once per year, so I was a little worried about brake performance when I bought the Impala, but I've been very happy thus far. My previous car was an '89 Toyota Celica, and as I recall it performed about the same as the Impala is now, under basically the same driving conditions (commuting to work @ 12 miles each way, with a mix of city and highway driving).
I'm hoping to drive the Impala a couple more years...I might have to get new pads in a year or so, but hopefully I can just get the rotors turned and won't have to replace them.
It's a shame we put this much money into what becomes essentially a big gamble.
Good luck on the brakes thing.
I think Autozone is great!
No problems exchanging the lifetime brakes (Duralast MKD814)
I got 75k on my 02 Impala. I think I am on my third set of brakes. (Including the original set)
The brake jobs are easy to do and the rotors are easy to change. Rotors are reasonably priced (about 30 dollars each)
I don't think it's worth having the old ones cut. Check out Autozone or National Discount Auto for replacements.
I do heavy stop and go city driving on a daily basis.
(Very little highway driving and tons of traffic lights).
Thats probably why I'm only averaging 20-21 mpg.
I am glad that you are having good luck with your brakes and that you are an exceptional driver!
One thing good I can say about my 02 Impala is that I have 2 of the original
Uniroyal Tiger Paw radials still on the car. The stock tires held up great. I will probably change them out before winter.
I am glad that you are having good luck with your 2000 model. I think I just got stuck with a lemon.
:lemon:
for leverage to get the caliper bracket bolts off.
I used a C-clamp to compress the piston back.
Seemed like a pretty easy job.
I took it to the dealership this morning. I had used a spare key thinking that if there were an issue, I didn't want to have to stop and restart the car as that may make the issue go away. I had lights, I had dash lights, but I could not get the brights to engage. I left the car running at the dealership until they could "test" it. Sure enough, it's the Multi-Function Headlight Switch.
From the looks of it, I will have to pay. I'll be back to post the parts and labor costs, and I will continue to update to let you all know if it did, indeed, fix the problem for the benefit of someone else who may encounter the same issue. I should have the car back tomorrow.
"combination switch" problems. If it goes out I am going to atempt to change it out myself. I've done a couple on the earlier model Chevys.
Does anyone know if you have to pull the steering wheel off to switch this out?
Now I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't know the price or part. I had purchased the extended warranty, and it covered everything. I did "hear" that the warranty got hit for around $400 (and it was around 2 hours labor), but that's unofficial.
Believe me, I will be back if the problem with the headlights going out is not fixed.
Thanks!
So, that's my first step. And I may take into a chevi dealer to see what they can do.
I am moving in a couple of weeks and traveling over 1200 miles, so I really need this fixed!! :surprise:
Or get an Ohm Meter and try the grounds and the power leads to figure out if it is grounding when it isn't supposed to. DO NOT forget the AMP in the rear trunk Deck it may be the culprit too? in a 2003 it should have been under warranty unless you went over the milage in the first incident.
If all grounds are fine, then the power feeds should be checked. You can get a generic schema from any local dealership or audio shop.
Let me know.
The problem I'm having is that the battery will be dead after the car sets for two days. The battery has been replaced every 3 months for the last 9. No, shorts have been found. And on top of that my Fuel gauge only works when its in Park! I hope someone has Idea of whats happening!Thanks
I had the problem with the "SECURTIY" light flashing and the dash lights flickering and after having the BCM replaced the symptoms were gone.
The dealer charged $360 to replace it. I was able to get GM to reimburse me for half the cost.
I really think Chevy should recall all these BCMs!
Alternator is good, I haven't had a problem with the clock
or the radio. I don't really wanna miss with the BCM, but its not ruled out yet.
occurrences, I finally had my BCM replaced (and programmed).
Besides the common security light and no-start problem, the power locks wouldn't work, and, if you're familiar with the 10 minutes of accessory power you have after you shut your ignition off, well, after ten minutes, my BCM would shut down fine, and then a few seconds later, it would come on again for a few seconds, then shut down again. It would continue to do this indefinitely. The new BCM solved all the problems I had. :mad:
plus whatever your state tax is, plus whatever small shop and/or material fee there is.
First, my turn signals had previously malfunctioned from time to time, but could be "fixed" by activating the hazards. Now when they malfunction, it's pretty bad and there's usually nothing that can be done.
Second, when the car reads that it is dark outside (and the dash lights activate in a different mode), the dashlights are very very faint. At night, I cannot read my speedometer, tachometer or fuel gauge. This is ONLY at dark, though. The radio and other instrument panel related lights are also very faint.
Finally, I'm encountering some difficulties with my power windows, but only on the driver's side. I can no longer press the button all the way down to roll my window up, but rather must keep it in a certain "sweet spot", which means being held about 3/4 of the way down.
I'm trying to sell this car soon, and these little inconveniences are not going to help the matter.
The power window switch is a fairly common problem...same thing happened to me about three years ago on my 2000 Impala. I managed with the "sweet spot" approach for probably six months or so, and then finally one day the switch quit entirely (or course, with the window down). The problem is in the switch, and is easily replaced...but as I recall the part is @ $90.
On the dash lights, you don't mention trying to adjust the intensity of the dash lights by turning the light switch on the dash - I'm sure you have, but if not it's possible it could be turned down, which would only impact things at night.
1. Is a GM dealer the only one who can install and program a Body Control Module (BCM)?
2. Should we just get the ignition switch and BCM done at the same time since one seems to mess up the other?
A brief history of our issues with the beloved 2001 Impala with 85K on it:
--Two weeks ago, the car won't start, although radio works, fan works, etc. Took battery cable off for a minute, reconnected, and car started fine with everything working.
--A few days later, battery light comes on and AC isn't cooling, stop by Advance Auto Parts, they say battery and alternator are fine. Pulling out of their parking lot, none of the dash board gauges work. Stop for gas, restart the car, and everything is working fine again.
--A few days later, we take car in for service, and our mechanic cannot find anything wrong using the diagnostic computer. Being the good guy that he is, he only charged us $20 for their efforts.
--This week, several more incidents of the car not starting, and the battery cable trick is taking longer and more repetitions for it to work.
Today we figured we should bite the bullet and go to a dealer, but after reading many of these posts, I get the feeling that some of them do not know what the root problem is. Money doesn't grow on trees here, so I do not want to end up trying this and that only to solve the problem after spending a grand.
Any advice, comments, or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Does this sounds like the dreaded BCM or does GM have another way of taking my money?