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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems



  • The dealership replaced the amp already. Then they replaced the body control computer. They even reprogramed the stereo twice. They called me today and told me come get it because they can't get it to act up again.

    I am interested in what they find with your nephews. Please keep me posted.
  • jntjnt Posts: 316

    All newer GM radio makes Turn Signal (CLICK CLACK), Chime sounds at the Driver side speaker. This is one way for them to save money. So if you hear unintended buzz or Blinking sounds, the radio is the culprit. It may experience some sort of brain death in these situations. You can tell the dealer to replace the radio to see if it is helpful. Early model year radio (06 model year for Impala) normally has more software or hardware bugs than the 07 and 08 models.

    If you are sick and tired of seeing the dealer, then reset the radio by unplug the fuses to the radio. Let the fuses out for 4-5 minutes before plugging them back. That will cure it for a while until next time. I did that to my 10 year old GM minivan to reset the Power sliding door at least once a year to get its function back

    Good luck

  • Thanks,

    I have suspected the radio. They tried reprograming it twice but to no avail. I think replacing it may possibly be the solution.


  • I have a 2004 Impala (3.4L base model) and am having problems with my turn signals. When I flip the turn signal lever the indicator light on my dash, and signal light in light the assembly will come on but not flash. It is the same for driver and passenger side of the vehicle. I am not sure if I should replace a relay or the turn signal module. A local mechanic quoted $550.00 to replace the module and relay. Any help would be great.
  • I don't know what the problem would be. I would start with the relay. It should be less expensive and easier to fix. If you do it yourself you will save big $$$.
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    I have a 2000 Impala and I swear that there are ghosts in my car. I have taken to the dealership and of course the car doesn't act up for them...Scary going down a highway at 120 km and your lights start flashing and the dashboard starts saying there is a door open and the locks start locking and unlocking. I do the same...I have the battery unhooked and then its fine for awhile.

    It probably is the bad BCM (Body Computer Module) that control security (horn, lock, light,..)and others in your car. My friend had his Impala honking, not starting,.. once in awhile for no reason at all. The dealer changed numbers of things but could not fix it until they replaced this module.

  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    Have you checked the light bulbs? The odd of both light bulbs going out at the same time is rather low however. But at least the bulb is cheaper to experiment with.

  • They replaced the BCM in my car. It still didn't fix the problem. In fact it did it again last night. I think the stereo is the problem but GM refuses to replace any more parts on my car until it acts up for the dealer. I even recorded the last several times it has acted up. I think they think I am crazy.

    You car is odd. Maybe you should name it Herby.
  • I wasn't sure where to put this in all the No start questions, so I am starting here.
    After having the Crank Sensor replaced four months ago on my 2000 LS, it won't start. We drove it for a whole, so stopping and starting and then it just didn't turn over. Just clicked. Now, we had a feeling we needed a new battery; so, my husband replaced that thinking that would be it. Still nothing. It just clicks. It's parked at my relatives and she started it once successfully, but didn't let it idle. Now we can't get it to start. It clicks and all the dash lights come on. A mechanic I am having looking at it said he will test the starter, but he thinks it is having a major electrical problems. Great.
    My question is could it be the battery just wasn't fully charged so it isn't strong enough to start the car? Is it the security system? Or is it the dreaded BCM that I am reading about?
    Thanks for all your help. Last time I ranted that I would sell this POS and never drive it again. I am a sucker because I really want to like the car and when it was running well, I was a happy camper.
    :confuse: :sick:
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    It's possible it's the solenoid in the starter. If so, it will be a reasonably priced repair. Since you've already changed the battery, that likely rules out the other "cheap" fix. I would also make sure the battery cables and connectors are in good shape. Hope that helps. :)
  • I really hope that's it! Wouldn't that be a nice change? Something simple?! When the mechanic 'tests' the starter,it will detect the problem? I don't want it to be one of those issues where you have to hunt and guess....
    here's to crossing your fingers.... :)
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Well, I would mention it to your mechanic. He/she will probably tell you that it's a part of the test but it never hurts to confirm. Honestly, it was a common problem many years ago and is much less common these days. I wish you the best of luck. I know how frustrated you must feel. :(
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    My nephew is taking his car in on Tues. He doesn't remember what they're replacing but he will get details and I'll pass them along.
    Regarding your amp, were you having the stereo hiss problem before (and/or after) they replaced it?

    Talk to you later,
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    Since the radio shows the problem, it is easy for it to get the blame. Sometime, it could be a bad switch module that sends bugus signal to the radio (telling it to chime or buzz). But the radio should be high on the likely suspect list since it is in the middle of all actions.

    Unfornately since this is an intermitten problem, it probably is hard for the dealer to duplicate it. Everytime you turn on the Ignition switch on the vehicle, this problem may or may not happen. It may take 100 times for it to act up. Or it may take 200 times? So next time when it happens, you should drive to dealer to show them (without turning off the vehicle or radio). But then again your radio may recover when you get there. That may be why the dealer could not dupplicate it. Unless they keep your car for awhile to try it themselves.

  • I have a 2000 Chevrolet with the 3.4 engine. I have been experiencing a no start condition and also a condition where the car cuts out when driving. In the no start condition the car will do one of two things. One it will crank with no thought of starting and secondly, it attempts to start but will spit and sputter for a few seconds, will not start and dies. After a few minutes of waiting or continued starting attempts ie: turning the key off and trying to re start, usually it will start. When driving along and it stalls it always has started even while moving. I see where others with similar symptoms have mentioned a crankshaft position sensor, a body control unit and a pass lock sensor.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    PS: Nothing shows up in the computer.
  • mote96mote96 Posts: 3
    I have a 96 monte carlo that just had that happen. The only difference is that once mine wouldn't start, no amount of waiting did the trick. It would crank forever but not turn. But the stalling while driving and starting right up is very familiar.

    Anyway, the problem on mine was the ignition module. They replaced the crank sensor at the same time. About 3000 miles later, the same thing happened. The module was under warranty and replaced. It's only been a few days since the fix, so I don't know if I'm out of the woods. I'm looking at an 06 LTZ anyway. It's just another possibility for your problem.
  • yebitsyebits Posts: 2
    My 2002 Impala will intermittanly drain the battery. Problem started about 2 months ago when one day the 18 month old battery was dead. Pulled battery, it tested bad at AutoZone, was given a new battery. Thought problem was solved. 3 or 4 days later, battery dead again. Charged and started, checked battery voltage good and looks like alternator is good (approx 14.5 volts). Battery dead again a few days later. I took the car to a trusted mechanic. After several weeks, he could not find anything wrong; no abnormal current draw, power and ground connections good, alternator tests good, etc. Took vehicle home. Next morning, you guessed it, dead battery. Charged and took vehicle to "The Dealership" (I hate taking a vehicle to the dealership for weird problems). They could not find a problem either; all tests good. Left it for a week and they checked it each day with no problem found. Took the vehicle home and... that's right... dead battery the next morning. Towed to dealer. Another week at the dealer and still no problem found. Tech and Service Advisor say battery tests "weak." Took vehicle to AutoZone to have the 2 month old battery retested; they say it tests good. They also say the alternator tests low at 8 amps saying it should be more like 12 amps. I don't think I have an alternator problem as the battery going dead is intermittant. I believe a bad alternator would result in more consistant battery problems. Reading various posts on "dead battery": the BCM, ground connection, and radio seems to be solutions to other similiar problems.

    Any other ideas where to turn/check next?
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    From what I'm reading, it only dies when you've been driving it...right? Maybe it's something you're doing, specifically, that's causing the problem. Not that you're doing anything wrong, just something you do is different from what the dealership or your other mechanic is doing. Like maybe locking the door via the door button vs. the FOB. I know that's unlikely but since you've got a gremlin in there, it could be something that seems insignificant. I own an '06 and yesterday I was listening to the radio with the engine off. I had been sitting in the car for about 30 min and just happened to look at the dash and saw the tach and speedometer needles pull down below 0...all by themselves, blip a couple times, then return to normal. I was just sitting in the seat...didn't touch a thing. :confuse:

    There are lots of things going on with the electronics/security systems on these cars when they seem to be just sitting there.

    I don't really have any ideas for what could be wrong but if you take it in again, maybe try copying your routine and parking it for them rather than having them do it. It may be your routine sequence that's the key to figuring it out.
  • yebitsyebits Posts: 2
    Yes, it only seems to go down after it's been driven...sometimes. I've been doing what you are suggesting. Trying to figure out if there is some secific thing or sequence that's causing this. Got some ideas to check today. Thanks for your input and please share additional ideas you might have.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Just curious, have you checked with the dealership (I know, I hate dealing with them too) about the alternator amperage? If it is indeed low, it may be putting your battery at a point where occasional circumstances are killing it. For instance, idling in traffic usually results in more power being drawn than is replaced by the alternator. Is it possible that it's dying on days when there may be a higher load on the battery?

    One other theory as to why the mechanics can't duplicate the problem... On the '06s, the hood is wired into the security system. If that's the case with your model, maybe when they raise the hood to check voltage, they're also resetting something in the security system that is cancelling whatever is drawing power in the cases where it drained the battery. You might look into that and if it is tied in, try raising the hood for a few days after parking it and see if it retains its charge. It would be a bit of a nuisance but may result in peace of mind. :)
  • Thanks

    The dealership has had the car several times and only got it to act up once. They replaced the amp., BCM, and reprogramed the radio twice. They told me GM wont replace any other parts until they get it to act up again.

    I suspect the problem lies in the radio too. Even when the radio is off, I hear it power up every time I turn on a turn signal.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I'm not sure if I followed-up on this or not but my nephew's problem was with the front speaker that plays the door chime. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Fortunately for him, it was an easy fix. Hopefully yours will be the same.

  • agaboagabo Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Chevrolet impala, and I have problem with engine fan. We just put a new fan, because the old fall a part, and same as in the old one only one side of the fan is working. Temperature on this car have to be constantly check, otherwise the car will overheat. We also lost overhead light, dashboard and trunk light.
    Any body have any ideas how to fix this problem?
  • rclubrclub Posts: 2
    Just got a new 07 LS - Are there any power outlets in the car that turn off when the key is removed? I noticed that the front 12V Power outlets stay live even after the key is removed and the car is locked. This is a problem because I have a sirius radio which plugs into the lighter and stays on all the time. Anyone have any suggestions, other than unplug it every time I Park?
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Double-check but I'm pretty sure the console power outlet turns off. Of course, you'll have to open the door to cancel the extended power (can't remember the official term). Also, it may be a little bulky having the power cord coming out of the console. I liked it better in my '02 Monte Carlo that had the other power outlet on the back of the console facing the back seat.

    I can't find it in the owners manual but I think I remember reading it there. Good luck!
  • kmo89kmo89 Posts: 3
    i tired that is it possible to have a short in the knob that you twist
  • dwt120dwt120 Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Impala w/ the following problem, security light comes on, head lights and dash lights blink intermittently, radiator fan runs intermittently, fuel gauge giving false reading, and it sounds like relay clicking below steering column. This relay also clicks when I release the brake, but not when I press the brake down, but only when the car is in drive. This problem is not constant and happens intermmittenly. I disconnected the positive battery cable and the problem dissapeared for aproximately 100 miles, but came right back. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Seems most of those freaky, intermittent things have been traced to the Body Control Module (BCM). I'd research it and see what you can find out.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    And my 2000 started having some odd electrical problems (random radio searches and such) a few weeks before my battery died...something else you might have checked (probably cheaper than a BCM!).
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    I've been having the dim dashlight problem at times. Doesn't happen all the time, but many mornings with sun shining bright I can barely see the time or radio station on the display. Has anyone heard if they've discovered why this is happening and have a fix?

    Also, when you start the car the running lights are supposed to come on dimmed, but mine has been starting with brights. It's around 7:30 a.m. so is plenty light. Then a couple nights ago around 5:15 pm with it still pretty daylight (I'm in TN), the brights turned on automatically. Anyone else seen this?
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