Actually, that fuse feeds a lot of control circuitry.
Unfortunately I'm travelling tonight, and don't have access to my files till late tomorrow night.
In the mean time, there is one thing you might look at, is the wiring harness in the trunk. The wires can rub against the trunk frame as the trunk opens and closes....particularly if you've jammed things in the trunk. Look in the drivers side front of trunk. You may have to crawl in the trunk, and open and close the lid to see the movement of wires. This is really a shot in the dark without any diagnosing, but gives you something to look at.
As mentioned, the 10A Gauge fuse handles the 'gauge' which is the combination meter....but it also feeds a lot of control circuitry in a number of other devices, so for example, there are devices which take two fuses to work. The 10 gauge fuse feeding the control circuitry, and then another fuse actually feeding the device.
But first let me give you everything that is downstream of the 10 gauge fuse in your model.
- The ABS (anti-lock braking system) - Backup light - Charging - Combination Meter - Cruise control - Door lock - Electronically controlled transmission and A/T indicator - Engine control (the main engine computer) - Headlight (w/daytime running light) - Key reminder and seat belt warning - Light auto turn off - Moon Roof - Power Window - Stop Light - Tail Light
Because this fuse controls so much, it is one of the harder problems to isolate the problem cause. I'd suggest an approach to isolate as follows: - Stop using moon roof, power windows, cruise control, and door locks. If the fuse blows without using any of those, then lower probability that those are the source of your problem. - Look closely and tail lights, stop lights, reverse light bulbs. Make sure all of the filaments look good and the correct filament is working on dual filament bulbs. You may even just go ahead and replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and your vehicle is 9 years old. Check for wire rubbing in the trunk, as mentioned previously. - If you still haven't isolated the problem, get a volt/ohm meter, and meter out the brake switch, the neutral switch, and reverse switch. Work the switch on and off and look for erratic meter movement. - Take your vehicle out to someplace safe, and put it into a panic stop to verify that the ABS system is working correctly. - Still haven't found it, give up and take it to a dealer. The rest will be too hard to work on yourself.
I took the advice from your original email and checked the wiring in the trunk. I found 2 wires broken, and three others that had bare spots. I also replaced the fuse and tried the power windows (not them), and then shifted into reverse, which immediately blew the fuse. After repairing the wires, all is well! I appreciate your expertise...as you probably saved me several hundred dollars at the dealer.
Thanks Kiawah. It finally got worm enough and quit raining long enough to check this further. Turns out power windows don't work anywhere, but door lock/unlock works on passenger side, so I figured pretty much eliminated power relay and fuses. Checked the wires to left door and found the white/black wire broken and blue half way broken. After figuring out how to get panel off of door, repaired the broken wires and taped everything up. Had a lot with cracked insulation. Regarding the door panel, slide a small blade above and below the inside door handle/lock lever to release the cup that is behind them. Then you can get the panel off. Thanks again for your help. Wife was complaining now that the weather is getting warm, with no windows working.
I heard a clock ticking sound from the fuse box two days ago. It was from the moroon color square 12V relay, which is labeled as "HEAD" on the lid of fuse box. I did not do anything with the sound during past two days and this morning I was not able to start my car--no sound at all. It happened three months ago in the winter that I had tough time to start the car---I had to keep turning the key for several times.
What is the problem? Is my battery died? or the battery was drawn by some kind of leakage?
I'd suggest starting with a basic electrical check of your battery and alternator, as well as verifying that the battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion.
Many auto parts chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) will do a complimentary check of your battery and alternator under load. You need to make sure you are starting with a good battery voltage of at least 13v.
Will the vehicle start with a 'jump', so you can drive it to get the battery/alt checked?
Hello Initially my '98 Camry LE 4cyl would not start. I had it jumped but it would immediately die when the jumper cables were removed, at which point I assumed the alternator was bad. I pulled the alternator and battery and had the alternator tested which proved to be fine. I replaced the battery and the terminal connectors anyway since it was somewhat corroded and looked like it needed replacing. Now the engine starts fine, however most of the internal electronics are not working. I checked all the fuses and replaced the one that was blown, I believe when I accidently touched the wrong terminal during the jump in my haste to get to the office. At this point the headlights, tail-lights, break-lights, power windows, power locks, transmission shifter, radio, clock and climate control all do not work. However the Interior dome light, trunk light, ignition cylinder light, open door light and open door warning bell all do work, which I believe run directly off the dome fuse and circuit without the integration relay.
All of the above has led me to believe that I have a bad integration relay. Do you agree? The only strange thing is that my windshield wipers and washer also don't work with the engine running, which I didn't think needed the integration relay.
Also, I went under the dash and disconnected the large and small wire harness connections to the integration relay and unlatched the bottom hook. The integration relay is now moving freely except whatever it is connected/latched to at the top right of the box which I can not see from my vantage point. Is the relay actually plugged in to the fuse-box similar to a normal relay or is there just another latch on the top similar to the one on the bottom? Do i need to move it towards the front of the car or towards the roof of the car to unhook it? I don't want to break something and be unable to replace it.
I actually think you might have blown the 100A Alt fuselink.
Check your horn and hazard lights, they should work.
Pull the 40A AM1 fuse, and check the voltage on the pin that is feeding that fuse. AM1 is in the fuse panel by your left knee. Underneath the smaller cigar fuse, there are three large fuses in a vertical column. The 40A Def fuse is under the cigar fuse, then under the Def fuse is the 30A Power fuse, then underneath that is the 40A AM1 fuse.
With the AM1 fuse pulled, you should have power on the right pin socket (pin 1 - fuse input), and won't have power on the left pin socket (pin 2 - fuse output). If you do NOT have power on pin 1, then your 100A Alt fuse is bad up in the engine compartment fuselink box. If you DO have power on pin 1, then check the continuity of the AM1 fuse.
Just for reference purposes, the wiper not working is an important clue. The power to that is fed from one wiperleg of the ignition switch, specifically the AM1 leg. That ignition switch input to the wiper leg is powered by the AM1 fuse. The AM1 fuse gets it's power from the 100A Alt fuse. So wiper not working has nothing to do with the integration relay. You've got a more basic power problem.
Assuming your problem is the 100A Alt fuse, be sure to disconnect the battery when replacing...it's hot all the time. After replacing, be sure to go have your alternator checked, most autoparts stores will do that for you. You need to verify that you didn't fry your alternator by jumping incorrectly. With luck, hopefully you've blown just the 100A fuse and not your alternator as well.
Sorry for the week delay, haven't been able to work on the car at all, too busy at work. I was going to say that I had visually checked that fuse and fuselink originally but i'm going to replace the 100a fuselink (since i broke it trying to remove it not realizing its bolted in). I already pulled the alternator and tested it last week after the problem surfaced so I know it isn't fried and I have a new battery. If i replace the fuselink but still am not getting power what do you suggest I check or should I just take it in to the shop at that point. Thanks, Have a good 4th.
You should be very close to figuring out exactly where the problem is. Once you replace that 100A, then verify that the voltage makes it to the fusebox to the leg of the AM1 fuse.
- Battery is good, brand new with new terminals - 100A fuselink is good and brand new - 40A AM1 fuse is good an recieving power (doubly confirmed with multimeter and fuse tester and my alarm went off when i plugged it back in so its completeing the circuit.) - Hazard flashers do work
So we are still at were we were in my first post, just know that the fuse and fuselinks are good. Thoughts?
Okay good, - the power from the 100A fuse link goes to two circuits. - the first circuit is to the AM1 fuse as I mentioned. That AM1 fuse feeds one of the wiperlegs (the AM1 leg) of the ignition switch. That wiper leg of the switch connects to: - - the ACC post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 15A cigarette fuse, the 15A power outlet fuse, and the 7.5A rad #2 fuse. Verify that you have power to the cig and power outlets, they're easy to check. If so, that will tell you that the ACC post of your ignition switch is good. Ignition key obviously needs to be in the accessory position. - - the IG1 post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 25A wiper fuse, the 10A Heater fuse, the 10A Gauge fuse, the 7.5A Turn fuse, and the 15A ECU-IG fuse. Verify that you have power to the input of the 25A wiper fuse, if so, that will tell you that the IG1 post of the ignition switch is good. Ign switch obviously needs to be in an ignition position.
- The 2nd circuit fed from the 100A fuse link, feeds: - - the 25A door fuse - - the 30A power fuse - - the 40A defogger fuse - - the 7.5A OBD - - and the #5 and #1 pins of the taillight relay. Pull one of those fuses, perhaps the 40A defogger or 30A power, and verify that you are getting power to the input of the fuse. That will confirm that your wiring is making it to that buss.
Let me know what you find in each of those two circuits.
That 25A wiper fuse mentioned above, is tied directly to pin 2 of the washer motor. The pin 1 of the washer motor is what gets grounded out by the switch to to turn the washer motor on.
That 25A wiper fuse, also is tied directly to pin 2 of the wiper motor plug, so that's another place you can verify that power is making it all the way thru that wiper fuse.
Ok, current update. I went out and checked the cig lighter, wiper fuse, and rear window defroster fuse for power all of which were good. However, after checking them the wipers started working and well as the transmission shifting! so i took a test drive around the block and that seems to be fine. Still no headlights though.
Current status - Starts and all powertrain components function - blinkers, hazards, wipers, interior gages all function (far as i have noticed)
Not working - headlights - power windows and door locks
but this is a good improvment since i can actually drive to the grocery store now heh. Thoughts?
Okay...weird that they started working, but we'll take that as some progress. I would continue to be slightly worried since we didn't actually find the root cause of the failure. You may have an intermittent ignition switch. You should continue to monitor those items closely.
You may want to swap out your 10A Gauge fuse, with another 10A Gauge fuse. That circuit feeds a lot of control circuitry, I want to eliminate that fuse from being a problem....even though it might look okay to you right now. I'd feel better if we had actually found a failing component above.
You need to verify that power is getting up to the second circuit as mentioned above in note 584. Pull those fuses and check that they are getting power fed to them from the buss, and that they are okay. Also check to see if your rear brake lights are working or not, and whether your rear 'running' lights are working (the lights within your brake lights that come on when your headlights are on).
All the fuses on the 2nd circuit are fine, and I can confirm that at least the power, OBD, and door fuse are getting power. My break lights are working, however the rear 'running lights' are not.
This second problem (wiper being the first) might be the integration relay as you first thought, but lets try to zero in to be sure.
Check whether your glove box light works or not. I suspect not. If it does NOT work, then verify that the 7.5A Panel fuse does NOT have any power in the fuse socket that would power that fuse. If all of that is true and the panel fuse is not getting powered, then either: - your taillight relay is bad, or - your taillight relay isn't getting turned on by the integration relay.
If the 7.5A panel fuse does not have power, then pull the taillight relay out of it's socket, and short in the socket from pin 5 (which should have 13volts on it in the socket), and pin 3. Pin 3 feeds the 7.5 panel fuse. When you short these pins, your glove box light (as well as the dashboard switch lights ...radio switch light, ac switch light, etc) should get power and turn on. You may have to read the pin numbers from the relay, and then be careful to choose the right corresponding pins in the socket. If you are not sure of the pins, then do not jumper the socket.
Alternatively, if you understand how relay's work, and have an ohmmeter, I can walk you thru how to test that your taillight relay is good or not.
At this point, until we can isolate it down more....I suspect either: - a couple relays are bad (taillight relay, and headlight relay) - your integration relay is bad (controls both of those relays) - your headlight stalk switch is bad (controls the integration relay)
And then I still have suspicions about why your windshield wiper had a problem, which may be your ignition switch
You should have power to that 7.5A panel fuse, when the light stalk is in a lights on position. That turns on the integration relay, turning on the taillight relay, providing power to the panel fuse.
Power to the panel fuse, should light up: - the glove box, when the glovebox switch is opened - cigaretter lighter illumination - ac switch illumintation, and blower switch, and ac control assembly, etc - lightbulb in the hazard switch, and radio, etc.
So when the power is on to that panel fuse, are all of those other lightbulbs turning on (could be your glovebox light is burnt out).
When you turn the light stalk to the off position, do those lights turn off?
Ok, I went back out to recheck and realized i had my multimeter on the wrong scale the first time. There appears to be a latent 1.3v-1.4v current on the panel fuse port with the light stalk switch ON or OFF. So I guess it is not getting the power it should. Sorry for the confusion.
Glovebox does not light up. The hazard switch light does not come on with the hazards on or off. The cig lighter ring light does not come on with the cig lighter active or not. The a/c on-off switch (green light) and windshield blower (amber light) light up when I turn the AC blower on. Otherwise they are off. (A/C itself works fine) Radio itself works. The radio screen backlight comes on when you turn the radio on. (Radio itself works fine)
Let's try to eliminate the relay from being the source of the problem.
Here's how to check out the relay, you appear very technical.
Take the relay out of the socket, and check it with some wiring you hook up.
The primary of the taillight relay, is +13 volts on pin 1, and ground to pin 2. When you apply this voltage, the primary coil of the relay should then connect the secondary points together. The secondary of the relay, are pins 5 and 3. When there is no power on the coil primary, you should have infinite resistance between 5 and 3. So check the resistance between 5 and 3, with nothing else connected to the relay, to verify that you have infinite resistance.
Now with two small pieces of wire, hooked to +13volts and ground each, lets test to see that the relay is energizing correctly. When you connect 13volts to pin 1, and ground pin 2, you should hear and feel the relay energize, and you should now have zero resistance between pins 5 and 3. Check to see if you now have zero resistance when the relay is energized.
If the relay is working correctly with this test, then the problem is that it isn't getting turned on. That would mean either your light stalk switch is bad, or your integration relay is bad.
I took the driver's side master window switch out and tried another used switch with no results. All 4 windows do not work from the driver's side and the individual switch at each window also do not work.
The power door locks on the driver's side works fine. I checked the fuses in the engine bay and also behind the coin compartment (those that are visible) and all seem to appear okay (used a test light).
I took a multimeter to test the harness connector of the master window switch and saw no 12V positive power flowing to any of the wires. The insulation on some of the wires between the door jamb seems to be coming off but I tried jiggling them around while operating the window switches and nothing moved. I'm thinking a fuse or a relay that has gone south.
We haven't mentioned the windows/door locks recently though, how would the tail & headlight relay effect those? The inegration relay would obviously but I didn't think the door and window motors were behind the other relays. I'm at the office without my wiring diagram.
In your situation with a main voltage spike or reversal, that power could have taken out any number of electronic circuits. In your case we're zeroing in on the relays, the integrated circuit, or the light stalk switch.
Once you verify if the relay is good, then the next place to isolate will be the wires to the stalk switch which you can check. You can check those contacts with ohmmeter. If the stalk switch is then good, then you've proven that your IC is the problem. But at this point, it could be either of the three (and I need to reverify with the schematcis that nothing else could be the problem....I'm shooting from memory here which is always dangerous)
Assuming that your wiper is continuing to work, and transmission continuing to shift okay.
Well I have been working on my Camry 95 V6. Problem I'm having is that I have no tail lights(though the headlights work and the turn signals for the rear work too)/No power to windows or power locks/ the Automatic shifter is locked up/ No lights to the dash either. I have checked the fuses(continuity) and pretty much taken the the whole dash apart. Any insight on how to fix this would be great. Before I pour gas on the car and torch it. lol
Can you tell me whether your backup lights work, or not.
If they do not, then I suspect you have a blown 10A Gauge fuse. That 10A Gauge fuse also effects the door locks and windows.
and then sometimes the root cause of the 10A gauge fuse blowing, is worn wiring in the trunk, up where the wiring comes from the body and attaches to the moving trunk hinge.
But we're getting a little a head of ourselves. Check to see if the backup lights work, and if not, check the 10A Gauge fuse in the drivers knee fusebox. It's in the 2nd column from the left. Swap it with another 10A if you need to.
Thank you for replying to my problem. The 3 fuses that you mention (25A Door, 10A Gauge, 30A Power) are all these located under the dash by the left knee coin door access?
Are there any relays that come into play in my case?
The back up lights work. I checked the 10A fuse anyway. It was ok.
Just a quick explanation of what I have done so far. I have the whole truck and dash apart because I was looking for a a burnt wire or a cut one. Im down to all the wires other than getting the dash board/steering wheel/and passenger air-bag off. Any idea on fuse-able links? I cant seem to get anything that shows them. Though I might be looking in the wrong direction.
25A Door, is the 4th column over, the middle of 3 10A Gauge, is the 1st column, third up from the bottom 30A Power, is a big fuse off to the lower right. There are 3 bigger fuses in a column, it's the middle one.
As per my post #598, I did check all of the small fuses in the main fusebox. What I didn't check was that 30A Power one because of that small plastic hose in the way and due to the bad angle that fuse is in.
Today, I immediately went to that fuse and guess what.....it was blown. I temporarily replaced it with a 40A one from the top.....and the windows started working again. In your post #599.......your last sentence was absolutely on the money. To make this a permanent fix, I will make sure to repair those exposed wires.
I am so glad I was able to come across this forum. I tried so many different forums with no luck. Thank you Kiawah for your kind help in resolving my issue.
I've only done a rewire job once on an old vette I used to own many years ago where I had this problem. It's just a very tedious job cutting and soldering wires. Be sure to use stranded wire as a replacement, and I'd suggest taking the door panel off so that the new wire extends from inside the door, thru the flexing area, and then over to where it's past the flexing point in the dash area.
If you use solid core wire, it will soon break, as solid wire can't stand the flexing like stranded wire can.
can anyone help? I don't have any tail lights, the bulbs and fuses are ok and they do turn on when i hit the brake pedal its just that at night i don't have any tail lights except side lights.
I am looking for advice on how to fix the power to the power locks and windows on my 96 Camry. I have checked all the small fuses and they are good. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Got a 99 toyota camry that is blowing the 10a gauge fuse immediately as soon as the car is put in reverse. If I skip over reverse quickly it wont do it but if I shift into reverse within about 1-2 seconds it blows. I checked the trunk wiring and it is all good. I followed it all back to the fuse panel and unhooked 3 of the 4 connections of the rear harness leaving only the plug that powers the fuel pump connected. It still blew. I am also throwing P0446 Evap Malfunction and P0500 Speed sensor codes but I don't know if that is related.
I've read pretty much this whole thread but couldn't find a solution, please help.....Thanks
Comments
John
Unfortunately I'm travelling tonight, and don't have access to my files till late tomorrow night.
In the mean time, there is one thing you might look at, is the wiring harness in the trunk. The wires can rub against the trunk frame as the trunk opens and closes....particularly if you've jammed things in the trunk. Look in the drivers side front of trunk. You may have to crawl in the trunk, and open and close the lid to see the movement of wires. This is really a shot in the dark without any diagnosing, but gives you something to look at.
As mentioned, the 10A Gauge fuse handles the 'gauge' which is the combination meter....but it also feeds a lot of control circuitry in a number of other devices, so for example, there are devices which take two fuses to work. The 10 gauge fuse feeding the control circuitry, and then another fuse actually feeding the device.
But first let me give you everything that is downstream of the 10 gauge fuse in your model.
- The ABS (anti-lock braking system)
- Backup light
- Charging
- Combination Meter
- Cruise control
- Door lock
- Electronically controlled transmission and A/T indicator
- Engine control (the main engine computer)
- Headlight (w/daytime running light)
- Key reminder and seat belt warning
- Light auto turn off
- Moon Roof
- Power Window
- Stop Light
- Tail Light
Because this fuse controls so much, it is one of the harder problems to isolate the problem cause. I'd suggest an approach to isolate as follows:
- Stop using moon roof, power windows, cruise control, and door locks. If the fuse blows without using any of those, then lower probability that those are the source of your problem.
- Look closely and tail lights, stop lights, reverse light bulbs. Make sure all of the filaments look good and the correct filament is working on dual filament bulbs. You may even just go ahead and replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and your vehicle is 9 years old. Check for wire rubbing in the trunk, as mentioned previously.
- If you still haven't isolated the problem, get a volt/ohm meter, and meter out the brake switch, the neutral switch, and reverse switch. Work the switch on and off and look for erratic meter movement.
- Take your vehicle out to someplace safe, and put it into a panic stop to verify that the ABS system is working correctly.
- Still haven't found it, give up and take it to a dealer. The rest will be too hard to work on yourself.
Best regards, John
Thanks again for your help. Wife was complaining now that the weather is getting warm, with no windows working.
What is the problem? Is my battery died? or the battery was drawn by some kind of leakage?
Many auto parts chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) will do a complimentary check of your battery and alternator under load. You need to make sure you are starting with a good battery voltage of at least 13v.
Will the vehicle start with a 'jump', so you can drive it to get the battery/alt checked?
Initially my '98 Camry LE 4cyl would not start. I had it jumped but it would immediately die when the jumper cables were removed, at which point I assumed the alternator was bad. I pulled the alternator and battery and had the alternator tested which proved to be fine. I replaced the battery and the terminal connectors anyway since it was somewhat corroded and looked like it needed replacing.
Now the engine starts fine, however most of the internal electronics are not working. I checked all the fuses and replaced the one that was blown, I believe when I accidently touched the wrong terminal during the jump in my haste to get to the office.
At this point the headlights, tail-lights, break-lights, power windows, power locks, transmission shifter, radio, clock and climate control all do not work. However the Interior dome light, trunk light, ignition cylinder light, open door light and open door warning bell all do work, which I believe run directly off the dome fuse and circuit without the integration relay.
All of the above has led me to believe that I have a bad integration relay. Do you agree? The only strange thing is that my windshield wipers and washer also don't work with the engine running, which I didn't think needed the integration relay.
Also, I went under the dash and disconnected the large and small wire harness connections to the integration relay and unlatched the bottom hook. The integration relay is now moving freely except whatever it is connected/latched to at the top right of the box which I can not see from my vantage point. Is the relay actually plugged in to the fuse-box similar to a normal relay or is there just another latch on the top similar to the one on the bottom? Do i need to move it towards the front of the car or towards the roof of the car to unhook it? I don't want to break something and be unable to replace it.
Sorry for the long post, Thanks for your insight.
Check your horn and hazard lights, they should work.
Pull the 40A AM1 fuse, and check the voltage on the pin that is feeding that fuse. AM1 is in the fuse panel by your left knee. Underneath the smaller cigar fuse, there are three large fuses in a vertical column. The 40A Def fuse is under the cigar fuse, then under the Def fuse is the 30A Power fuse, then underneath that is the 40A AM1 fuse.
With the AM1 fuse pulled, you should have power on the right pin socket (pin 1 - fuse input), and won't have power on the left pin socket (pin 2 - fuse output). If you do NOT have power on pin 1, then your 100A Alt fuse is bad up in the engine compartment fuselink box. If you DO have power on pin 1, then check the continuity of the AM1 fuse.
Just for reference purposes, the wiper not working is an important clue. The power to that is fed from one wiperleg of the ignition switch, specifically the AM1 leg. That ignition switch input to the wiper leg is powered by the AM1 fuse. The AM1 fuse gets it's power from the 100A Alt fuse. So wiper not working has nothing to do with the integration relay. You've got a more basic power problem.
Assuming your problem is the 100A Alt fuse, be sure to disconnect the battery when replacing...it's hot all the time. After replacing, be sure to go have your alternator checked, most autoparts stores will do that for you. You need to verify that you didn't fry your alternator by jumping incorrectly. With luck, hopefully you've blown just the 100A fuse and not your alternator as well.
Let me know how it goes. Goodluck.
I was going to say that I had visually checked that fuse and fuselink originally but i'm going to replace the 100a fuselink (since i broke it trying to remove it not realizing its bolted in). I already pulled the alternator and tested it last week after the problem surfaced so I know it isn't fried and I have a new battery.
If i replace the fuselink but still am not getting power what do you suggest I check or should I just take it in to the shop at that point.
Thanks, Have a good 4th.
- Battery is good, brand new with new terminals
- 100A fuselink is good and brand new
- 40A AM1 fuse is good an recieving power (doubly confirmed with multimeter and fuse tester and my alarm went off when i plugged it back in so its completeing the circuit.)
- Hazard flashers do work
So we are still at were we were in my first post, just know that the fuse and fuselinks are good.
Thoughts?
Thanks for your help
- the power from the 100A fuse link goes to two circuits.
- the first circuit is to the AM1 fuse as I mentioned. That AM1 fuse feeds one of the wiperlegs (the AM1 leg) of the ignition switch. That wiper leg of the switch connects to:
- - the ACC post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 15A cigarette fuse, the 15A power outlet fuse, and the 7.5A rad #2 fuse. Verify that you have power to the cig and power outlets, they're easy to check. If so, that will tell you that the ACC post of your ignition switch is good. Ignition key obviously needs to be in the accessory position.
- - the IG1 post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 25A wiper fuse, the 10A Heater fuse, the 10A Gauge fuse, the 7.5A Turn fuse, and the 15A ECU-IG fuse. Verify that you have power to the input of the 25A wiper fuse, if so, that will tell you that the IG1 post of the ignition switch is good. Ign switch obviously needs to be in an ignition position.
- The 2nd circuit fed from the 100A fuse link, feeds:
- - the 25A door fuse
- - the 30A power fuse
- - the 40A defogger fuse
- - the 7.5A OBD
- - and the #5 and #1 pins of the taillight relay.
Pull one of those fuses, perhaps the 40A defogger or 30A power, and verify that you are getting power to the input of the fuse. That will confirm that your wiring is making it to that buss.
Let me know what you find in each of those two circuits.
That 25A wiper fuse mentioned above, is tied directly to pin 2 of the washer motor. The pin 1 of the washer motor is what gets grounded out by the switch to to turn the washer motor on.
That 25A wiper fuse, also is tied directly to pin 2 of the wiper motor plug, so that's another place you can verify that power is making it all the way thru that wiper fuse.
Current status
- Starts and all powertrain components function
- blinkers, hazards, wipers, interior gages all function (far as i have noticed)
Not working
- headlights
- power windows and door locks
but this is a good improvment since i can actually drive to the grocery store now heh.
Thoughts?
You may want to swap out your 10A Gauge fuse, with another 10A Gauge fuse. That circuit feeds a lot of control circuitry, I want to eliminate that fuse from being a problem....even though it might look okay to you right now. I'd feel better if we had actually found a failing component above.
You need to verify that power is getting up to the second circuit as mentioned above in note 584. Pull those fuses and check that they are getting power fed to them from the buss, and that they are okay. Also check to see if your rear brake lights are working or not, and whether your rear 'running' lights are working (the lights within your brake lights that come on when your headlights are on).
My break lights are working, however the rear 'running lights' are not.
Do you have Daytime Running Lights, or not?
DRL = front head lights that are on all the time during the daylight hours
Thanks for taking all of this time.
Check whether your glove box light works or not. I suspect not. If it does NOT work, then verify that the 7.5A Panel fuse does NOT have any power in the fuse socket that would power that fuse. If all of that is true and the panel fuse is not getting powered, then either:
- your taillight relay is bad, or
- your taillight relay isn't getting turned on by the integration relay.
If the 7.5A panel fuse does not have power, then pull the taillight relay out of it's socket, and short in the socket from pin 5 (which should have 13volts on it in the socket), and pin 3. Pin 3 feeds the 7.5 panel fuse. When you short these pins, your glove box light (as well as the dashboard switch lights ...radio switch light, ac switch light, etc) should get power and turn on. You may have to read the pin numbers from the relay, and then be careful to choose the right corresponding pins in the socket. If you are not sure of the pins, then do not jumper the socket.
Alternatively, if you understand how relay's work, and have an ohmmeter, I can walk you thru how to test that your taillight relay is good or not.
- a couple relays are bad (taillight relay, and headlight relay)
- your integration relay is bad (controls both of those relays)
- your headlight stalk switch is bad (controls the integration relay)
And then I still have suspicions about why your windshield wiper had a problem, which may be your ignition switch
Power to the panel fuse, should light up:
- the glove box, when the glovebox switch is opened
- cigaretter lighter illumination
- ac switch illumintation, and blower switch, and ac control assembly, etc
- lightbulb in the hazard switch, and radio, etc.
So when the power is on to that panel fuse, are all of those other lightbulbs turning on (could be your glovebox light is burnt out).
When you turn the light stalk to the off position, do those lights turn off?
Glovebox does not light up.
The hazard switch light does not come on with the hazards on or off.
The cig lighter ring light does not come on with the cig lighter active or not.
The a/c on-off switch (green light) and windshield blower (amber light) light up when I turn the AC blower on. Otherwise they are off. (A/C itself works fine)
Radio itself works. The radio screen backlight comes on when you turn the radio on. (Radio itself works fine)
So I guess we are back to the taillight relay.
Here's how to check out the relay, you appear very technical.
Take the relay out of the socket, and check it with some wiring you hook up.
The primary of the taillight relay, is +13 volts on pin 1, and ground to pin 2. When you apply this voltage, the primary coil of the relay should then connect the secondary points together. The secondary of the relay, are pins 5 and 3. When there is no power on the coil primary, you should have infinite resistance between 5 and 3. So check the resistance between 5 and 3, with nothing else connected to the relay, to verify that you have infinite resistance.
Now with two small pieces of wire, hooked to +13volts and ground each, lets test to see that the relay is energizing correctly. When you connect 13volts to pin 1, and ground pin 2, you should hear and feel the relay energize, and you should now have zero resistance between pins 5 and 3. Check to see if you now have zero resistance when the relay is energized.
If the relay is working correctly with this test, then the problem is that it isn't getting turned on. That would mean either your light stalk switch is bad, or your integration relay is bad.
The power door locks on the driver's side works fine. I checked the fuses in the engine bay and also behind the coin compartment (those that are visible) and all seem to appear okay (used a test light).
I took a multimeter to test the harness connector of the master window switch and saw no 12V positive power flowing to any of the wires. The insulation on some of the wires between the door jamb seems to be coming off but I tried jiggling them around while operating the window switches and nothing moved. I'm thinking a fuse or a relay that has gone south.
- 25A door
- 10A gauge
- 30A power
Check that they are all good.
Cracking insulation is sure recipe to blow fuses
The inegration relay would obviously but I didn't think the door and window motors were behind the other relays.
I'm at the office without my wiring diagram.
Have a good one
Once you verify if the relay is good, then the next place to isolate will be the wires to the stalk switch which you can check. You can check those contacts with ohmmeter. If the stalk switch is then good, then you've proven that your IC is the problem. But at this point, it could be either of the three (and I need to reverify with the schematcis that nothing else could be the problem....I'm shooting from memory here which is always dangerous)
Assuming that your wiper is continuing to work, and transmission continuing to shift okay.
Well I have been working on my Camry 95 V6. Problem I'm having is that I have no tail lights(though the headlights work and the turn signals for the rear work too)/No power to windows or power locks/ the Automatic shifter is locked up/ No lights to the dash either. I have checked the fuses(continuity) and pretty much taken the the whole dash apart. Any insight on how to fix this would be great. Before I pour gas on the car and torch it. lol
If they do not, then I suspect you have a blown 10A Gauge fuse. That 10A Gauge fuse also effects the door locks and windows.
and then sometimes the root cause of the 10A gauge fuse blowing, is worn wiring in the trunk, up where the wiring comes from the body and attaches to the moving trunk hinge.
But we're getting a little a head of ourselves. Check to see if the backup lights work, and if not, check the 10A Gauge fuse in the drivers knee fusebox. It's in the 2nd column from the left. Swap it with another 10A if you need to.
Thank you for replying to my problem. The 3 fuses that you mention (25A Door, 10A Gauge, 30A Power) are all these located under the dash by the left knee coin door access?
Are there any relays that come into play in my case?
Thanks very much.
The back up lights work. I checked the 10A fuse anyway. It was ok.
Just a quick explanation of what I have done so far. I have the whole truck and dash apart because I was looking for a a burnt wire or a cut one. Im down to all the wires other than getting the dash board/steering wheel/and passenger air-bag off. Any idea on fuse-able links? I cant seem to get anything that shows them. Though I might be looking in the wrong direction.
25A Door, is the 4th column over, the middle of 3
10A Gauge, is the 1st column, third up from the bottom
30A Power, is a big fuse off to the lower right. There are 3 bigger fuses in a column, it's the middle one.
You were absolutely positively 100% correct!
As per my post #598, I did check all of the small fuses in the main fusebox. What I didn't check was that 30A Power one because of that small plastic hose in the way and due to the bad angle that fuse is in.
Today, I immediately went to that fuse and guess what.....it was blown. I temporarily replaced it with a 40A one from the top.....and the windows started working again. In your post #599.......your last sentence was absolutely on the money. To make this a permanent fix, I will make sure to repair those exposed wires.
I am so glad I was able to come across this forum. I tried so many different forums with no luck. Thank you Kiawah for your kind help in resolving my issue.
I've only done a rewire job once on an old vette I used to own many years ago where I had this problem. It's just a very tedious job cutting and soldering wires. Be sure to use stranded wire as a replacement, and I'd suggest taking the door panel off so that the new wire extends from inside the door, thru the flexing area, and then over to where it's past the flexing point in the dash area.
If you use solid core wire, it will soon break, as solid wire can't stand the flexing like stranded wire can.
Good luck.
Pull the drivers door panel switch, check that you have power there.
I've read pretty much this whole thread but couldn't find a solution, please help.....Thanks