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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • jmillsajmillsa Posts: 1
    electric door lock not working on passenger side. any ideas on issue?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    First, verify that it doesn't work from the passenger side switch either. Then take off the passenger inside door panel, and check to see that you are getting voltage to the door lock solenoid (when you depress the switch) If so, then that confirms the solenoid bad.
  • ashullashull Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    My 2000 Camry with 95,000 miles has a rear light failure warning light on. Have checked all the bulbs and none are burned out. Anyone know why this may have happened? Solutions?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There is a light failure sensor, which is monitoring the combined current collectively going out to the 2 rear brake lights, and the the high center mounted stop light. If it doesn't sense enough current being drawn by the lights (which would happen if a bulb out), it turns on the indicator light on your dash.

    You should check your bulbs very carefully, and make sure you have the right bulb type in, and it is in the socket in the correct orientation. Dual filament bulbs need to have the lower wattage filament come on with the headlights at night, the higher wattage filament comes on when the brake is depressed.

    I believe the correct bulb type is listed in the back of the owners manual, although sometimes I get my vehicles confused. If it was me, I'd just replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and make sure they are put in with the correct orientation.

    If that doesn't fix your problem, then you will need to replace the light failure sensor.....although I would be very surprised if the problem wasn't with one of your bulbs.

    Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  • toyota 2000 camry 24,000miles--had the same for year and half: ON and OFF, most of the time ON--had checked all bulbs-all were fine. It was OFF at my last service visit to the Toyota dealership, so no action taken.
    On Friday 5-23-08 my car had SUDDEN UNCONTROLLED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION in the parking space of the Post Office. Filed to NHTSA complaint ODI 10228916. I am a good driver and my foot was on the PARK.
    After i moved Shift to Park, heard a LOUD POP-Bang coming from low front/engine location, in instance, may be half of second-- my car was suicidal --jumping over concrete space guard, over concrete sidewalk into the brick wall, hit it and stopped w/engine running! since it was in the PARK--then took the ignition key out. Heavy smoke/sparks --run away from the car b/c expected more fire or explosion.
    30 minutes later my car w/deployed airbags/cracked w/shield was back to normal, so with bystanders moved/reversed it back down from the sidewalk and drove 1 mile home w/radiator leak. Still do not know if Park prevailed or it stopped b/c air-bags deployed. Seatbelt was already released since the parking was almost finished--they got pinned/jammed to the walls, you can not move them at all--was told at dealership that this s.b. cut at the crash!
    Toyota TFS-technical field specialist-- checked it at the dealership--nothing is disclosed to me; 4weeks later got an useless empty answer from the Toyota Legal Dept. that both systems --Parking and Throttle control are working fine. Verbal repair estimate $8-9,000 from the Toyota affiliated bodyshop!
    My question: should be there some codes recorded by the system ( ECM), since air-bags deployed and what is the forecast for the same killing attempt. What could be an origin of the LOUD BANG from the engine prior to the forward gasp?
    24,000 mile-1st owner--Camry 2000 with 4cyl 2.2L DOHC engine, fuel injection, 4-speed automatic ect transmission. Georgetown, KY (Drive-by-wire, NO cruise control)
    SOS--Please Help-- since the Begemoth Toyota is the last one on the Earth who is willing to admit this SA-sudden acceleration or help, may be 10 years later. Not looking for profit --was lucky enough that NOBODY killed and minor burn from airbags.
  • monmyemonmye Posts: 4
    I have a 1991 Toyota Camry.

    I have replaced two fuses, 7.5 and 15 that operate the A/C, gauges for gas, etc...
    I start the engine after I replace the fuses and they seem to work. On a second restart of my car, the fuses get blown again. I have tried this two times now in replacing the fuses and them being blown out.

    Does anyone happen to know why this could be happening and a potential solution tht doesn't require alot of $?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Personally speaking, I can't see how these two situations could at all be related. The light sensing circuit is a little standalone circuit, simply monitors the current draw of the tail lights, and turns on an indicator light if detects a problem.

    In regards to the accident, I don't know what the ECM would have recorded or not, and whether it has been erased overwritten automatically by you then driving the vehicle. I'm sure others could give you better guidance, and I'd suggest posting in the Edmunds forum on Accidents and Insurance. I'd be inclined to think that I'd write a letter to Toyota asking for a copy of all reports and findings that they made, but I don't know that they are bligated to do that or not. Might take a lawyers letter to get any action. I can't imagine what would have made a loud BANG as you mention, but would think that if there was a BANG...they would have found something broken.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Exactly which two fuses are blowing. There is writing on the fuse block, which will tell you what the name of the fuse is. If you can't read it, tell me something like "2nd row down, third fuse over"

    I assume the 7.5 Amp is the one called 7.5A Gauge. What is the 15 Amp?
  • monmyemonmye Posts: 4
    I don't have a fuse "map" that specifies the placement of the fuses and the for what of the seems to be missing.

    The two I replaced are in the top row, looking straight at fuse box right to left:

    1st place, rootbeer color fuse 7.5
    5th place, lightblue color fuse 15 (the light blue fuse is in the last place of the top row, I think that's correct.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The 7.5 is the gauge fuse, the 15amp is your tail fuse.

    This won't be simple to isolate and fix, you'll probably need a very good garage to troubleshoot this one.

    The 7.5 gauge fuse feeds a lot of things, including things like:
    integration relay
    light failure sensor, rear lights warning light
    backup lights
    power main relay,
    seat belt/should belt stuff
    automatic transmission and overdrive indicators,
    the engine ECU 'computer'
    transmission lock solenoid and indicator
    ABS warning light
    rear window defogger and relay
    antenna motor and control
    combo meter (your dash)
    heater/ac blower and control motors and circuits.

    The 15A tail powers
    the engine ECU
    combo meter
    wiper switch cruise control, rear window defogger, cig lighter, and a whole bunch of switch lights (transmission lock light, ac switch light, defogger light, etc)
    rear and front side marker lights, taillights, etc
    light failure sensor

    The symptom that both fuses blow at the same time, would lead one to suspect a failing component that are powered by both of those circuits:
    - engine ECU (computer)
    - combination meter (your dashboard)
    - light failure sensor
    - possibly a very bad switch, where the light circuit of the switch is shorting to the switched load portion of the switch
    - etc

    Since it could be a number of things, you should try to look and/or sense additional symptoms (clues). When the fuses aren't blown and the engine is running, does the engine run all right, or would you suspect that it could be the ECU. If the engine runs all right, is it shifting correctly? Other than when you turn the engine off, do the fuses ever blow at some other time? If everything is turned off before the engine (radio, ac, lights, etc), do the fuses still blow?

    I suspect you might have a bad computer, but would want to exhaust all other possible options before replacing that ($$$).

    Good luck !!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Couple additional thoughts/questions on this.

    Is there anything about this car, that you didn't disclose or think was related to your problem? Things that might add a clue.........

    - car was recently in an accident,
    - you recently had someone do some work on it, fixing and repairing ......
    - someone was working on the dashboard, messing around with the wiring and adding a new radio.
    - car was in a flood, or you hosed off the engine trying to clean it
    - lightning hit a tree right near the vehicle.
  • monmyemonmye Posts: 4
    Yikes! More money to maintain my car. I'm still hoping for an easier/cheaper solution...
    Thank you for the information...sometimes the car does seem to have some problems in shifting. And feels a little jerky at times. I thought it might need a tune-up/new spark plug.
    I'll look into talking to a mecahnic and see what the potential damage could run.
  • monmyemonmye Posts: 4
    the fuses went out intially a few weeks ago. I had someone replalce the fuses for me. A few days ago, the fuses went out again. Oddly enough, the fuses seemed to go out right after I jumped another car using my battery. This could have been the issue according to someone at Kragen's (?).
    Most of the other questions you asked didn't apply with the exception of the lightening. We recently had a lightening storm here, but the fuses didn't go out until some time aferwards. I think I'll blame it on the person that I helped jump start her battery.
  • lisntomelisntome Posts: 3
    I have a similar problem with my rear lights and tag light that are set in the trunk hood. I have checked the bulbs and replaced them and they did not need it. I have checked the fuses, they are fine, yet my lights still do not work. I figure it must be some type of wiring problem that I do not have the money to fix. Hope I don't get a ticket.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That jumping is probably what caused your problem.

    Do this then....take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (autozone, pepboys, etc), and have them do a battery and alternator check under 'load'. This is a free test. They'll check that the battery is able to delivery a certain amount of current, and that there are no bad cells and it can hold the required voltage.

    The alternator load test will test to make sure it is delivering enough current and voltage to recharge the battery.

    Make sure these aren't contributing to the symptoms.
  • rich505rich505 Posts: 33
    I just joined Edmunds Car Space so there is a delay in this response. I have a 94 Camry V6 LE with 94K miles now.

    I have had had the same problem twice, the rear light indicator would come on after starting the car a depressing the brake pedal the first time. All the bulbs in the rear were OK. Once was in April 08 and once about 3 years ago.

    Two different Toyota dealer shops found the same problem each time: a short had developed in the wiring harness inside the the trunk lid under the insulation. The second time it had happened we were on the way to the airport, I had a luggage in the trunk and had just shut the lid.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I believe the symptoms of that problem would be a little different though. You' may have had the inside warning light on, but you would also have been blowing a fuse (if the wire was shorting), or if the wire was broken open then the trunk mounted taillight would not be working. Did you notice one of the other symptoms? or were you just working off of the inside warning light on?

    Was your wire problem at the flex point where the wire moves everytime the trunk opens or closes? or was it really up underneath the insulation where it may have been pinched by jamming the trunk lid down on an overfilled trunk?
  • jherzjherz Posts: 6
    I have just been dealing with the same problem. Broken wire at the harness adjacent to the trunk hinge. This shorted out fuse but also seems to have burnt the light failure unit which is located on the left side of the trunk behind the liner. Just follow the harness. I managed a repair by soldering the the affected wires. Toyota wanted 275.00 cnd for the unit. Ebay had it for about 50.00us. I also had several defective new bulbs so don't assume that the new bulb you put in is working. Check with a meter before installing.
  • jherzjherz Posts: 6
    Where is the fuse for the air conditioning for a 94 camry le v6. So far I have only found a relay. I have located three different fuse box locations. One under the Park Brake release and two in the engine compartment drivers front corner.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the fuse and relay for the front radiator fan?
  • toyota098toyota098 Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 98 Camry 4 cylinder. I had engine and transmission taken out yesterday to fix a transmission leak ($5 seal). Also replaced timing belt and water pump. We put everything back together and car ran great. I drove it last night for about 60 miles in town and on the highway. This morning however, I started the car to check fluids and turned it off then the car started acting up- power windows stopped working, nothing works on the dashboard except seat belt light, car won't start and sun roof won't work either. Moreover, transmission won't shift to the second gear (always on first)- revers works fine (I started car from stater- couldn't jump start it). Stereo, headlights, signals, power locks all work fine. We checked all the plugs, fuses and ground wires again, and everything seems in place. I don't know what's going on???? Any help. Thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You're going to need to get a voltmeter, and start troubleshooting the basic electrical circuits of the car. Figure out what is working, and what is not working to zero in on the problem area. I'm assuming you did this work yourself, as opposed to paying a shop. If on the other hand you paid a shop, call them back up and tell them to come tow the car in so they can troubleshoot it.

    Gen 4 Basic Electrical
  • jherzjherz Posts: 6
    No. Just the fuse for the air conditioning pump. Assuming there is one. I have seen mention of a low pressure sensor which prevents the ac pump from operating. Don't know the status of my system pressure. By the by what is the gas in the ac in the 94 year.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Understand what you are looking for now.

    There are three fuses which feed the AC control circuitry, a 40A Heater fuse, a 10A AC fuse, and the 10A Gauge fuse. You also have a relay called Heater, which is integral to this power circuit.

    The Gauge fuse is in the normal fuse box. The other three, are located in a relay block down in the lower right passenger side kick panel.

    For the clutch control, there is a magnetic clutch relay, which is controlled (turned on/off), by the AC amplifier. When the relay is turned on, the clutch is powered and turned on. The clutch also has a lock sensor attached to it, which feeds back to the ac amplifier. There is an evaporator temperature sensor, runs from the AC amplifier thru the lock sensor, and back to the AC amplifier. There is also a dual pressure switch (monitors high and low pressure), which feeds to the AC amplifier.
  • carstupidcarstupid Posts: 1
    hello, i am also up to my wits. i am a girl so that probly explains it but i do know a little bit about cars. So i called toyota and they said that that sounds like the problem and that i can replace it my self. so i worked on it all day yesterday and still couldnt get it out could you tell me how you did it? PLEASE! :mad: :confuse: and you know what the sad thing is. i just put 300 dollars in it the day before yesterday and it was only running for like a total of 20 min all day :cry: PLEASE HELP! thanks
  • toyota098toyota098 Posts: 2
    Thanks guys, it turned out to be the speed sensor. The car runs great now :)
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Really, that's weird.

    I can see how the speed sensor might keep the transmission in first and reverse (Engine wouldn't think the car is moving, so wouldn't upshift it)....but can't imagine how that would prevent the car from being started, windows and moonroof from working, etc.

    The speedsensor is connected to the dash speedometer (combo meter), which is then connected to the ECM.

    Was the speed sensor just not connected? or defective and had to be replaced? We're you blowing the 10A Gauge fuse?

    I'd continue to be a little concerned for a while, and continue to watch everything closely.
  • Looks like you fixed the issue. I do have same issue on my 2001 camry, can you please help me locate the fuse that goes to clock, power mirrors and dashboard lightings. All the 3 stopped working after I used a 12v dc converter to charge my cell phone.

    Your response is much appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Follow the forum chain back. It's the CIG fuse in the fusebox, behind the ashtray by your left knee.
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