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Comments
2.) If that doesn't work, and if you have an ohmmeter, you can do some trouble shooting by measuring resistance to ground. Unplug the bulbs front and back, unplug where you can to see when problem goes away. It would be work, but doable.....and sounds like you are pretty handy.
The HVAC is a system, it has a number of parts that are all managed and work together to operate correctly. There is one fan, not multiple fans. There are a number of dampers (automated and manual) which control air flows. A damper to choose between outside air and recirculated air, an air mix damper to choose between hot and cold air, a heat damper to control air to the floor, and defroster damper to control air to the defroster, and a center vent damper. There are vacuum items, and electrical items. There is a mode servometer, obviously the blower switch, a heater control assembly, and air inlet servometer, and a A/C amplifier, in addition to the computer controls and other sensor inputs and resistors.
I could walk thru this and troubleshoot where the problem might be, but it could potentially take hours upon hours, particularly hard because it's not just identifying and fixing it, but since we're remote it's having to explain each piece and operation enough that you could go do it.....you having never done it before. Trying to explain how to tear the dash apart is not something easy to do remotely. It's not that it couldn't be done, it's just not at all practical or efficient use of anyone's time.
If you tear into it, look for correct operation of all of the dampers, and the mode servometer. You'll have to isolate whether it's a mechanical, vacuum, or electrical problem.
This would be a good candidate to pay to have someone who is trained, to locally fix it.
Make sure you don't lock yourself in.
This is a wear point that happens, if at some time the trunk was jammed full of stuff and moved the wiring around.
Let me know if this is your problem or not. If not, there are a couple different areas that I'll have you look into.
Air not coming out of a particular location, would be due to either that damper is closed when it is supposed to be open.....or the other dampers on the plenum are open when they are supposed to be closed (letting the air out of the plenum in the wrong spots). This is of course all dependent upon which mode is selected. Each air-outlet mode dictates a different set of air distribution pattern (face, bi-level, foot, foot/defroster, defroster).
Good luck.
When I activate the turn signal, either direction, both flash.
I am assuming it is the flasher or turn signal module, but where is it located?
Also, approximately how much is one?
Check your dual filament bulbs, to see if one of them has a broken filament which is laying across the 2nd filament.
Look carefully at the intensity of the blinking of the bulbs, front and back.
But also do one thing, push the 4 way flashers on, and then off again, just to make sure that switch isn't causing a problem.
Hmmm.... Well, unfortunately that fuse controls/feeds a lot of different things, and is probably one of the more difficult fuses to narrow down the failing component. The good news is your problem isn't intermittent but fails quite frequently, so IF we can disconnect somethings there is a chance that you'll know what the problem is. Let's give this a try, as you may be lucky.
This circuit has connections to:
- the ABS and traction control system
- the backup light
- charging
- instrument panel gauge
- cruise control
- door locks
- transmission control
- headlight
- key reminder and seat belt warning
- light auto turn off
- moon roof
- power window
- stop light
- tail light
The diagnostic approach to start with, is similar to the million dollar pyramid. You will open up and eliminate other cases, to try and figure out what is in your case. So you can start disconnecting whatever you can from the circuit, and hopefully at some point the fuse will stop blowing. Assuming we can get to that point, you'd then know which piece of the above list is causing the problem. The difficulty here is that only some of these things are easy to get to.
The other thing that is important to try and figure out, is can you force it to fail, or recognize what happened when you recognize that it does fail. As an example, if you replace the fuse and start the vehicle, and it will run for hours without blowing the fuse....but then blows when you open the windows....then you suspect it is something related to the door window circuitry. You can then zero in much closer on that leg of the circuit.
Here's the approach that I'd suggest, but legal disclaimer is to 'not try any of this yourself at home, take it to the dealership, do anything at your own risk'.....
- the backup light circuitry goes to a switch on the transmission, unplug that switch to eliminate it as a possible cause, see if the problem goes away. You could also meter it to ground to see if by some chance it is shorting out, but unplug it to be certain.
- the transmission ECM circuit, actually goes thru the combo meter, and then to the speed sensor on the transmission. You can unplug the speed sensor on the transmission, to eliminate that.
- the ABS circuit goes thru the combo meter, and then to the ABS/Traction control ECU. I don't know what happens if you unplug that ECU and try to drive.
- the charging circuit goes thru the ignition switch when the key is in the ign position, and energizes the control circuitry in the alternator. Nothing you can unplug here.
- the Combo meter, I'd probably leave this as one of the last things to try and unplug.
- Door Lock, Key Reminder, Light Auto Turn off, Moon Roof, and Power window circuitry. The linkage to all of this stuff is thru the 'integration relay'. I'd pull that relay out. It's on the backside of the fuse box by the drivers left knee (actually if you consider the fuses are on the rear side if vehicle, the integration is on the front side of vehicle). They call this a relay, but it is a little mini-computer which 'integrates' a lot of different sensors and functions, mainly in the area of what other manufactures call 'body control'......ie control of passenger convenience items.
- Engine control circuit, main engine computer, obviously can't unplug that.
- Stoplight and taillight circuitry, the connection here goes to the combo meter where there is a little bit of circuitry which detects if there is a failing light. I believe there is a connector, but obviously tough to get to.
- Headlight w/DRL circuitry goes to the DRL relays, as well as the combination meter brake sensor light (has a junction connector). I'd pull all the DRL relays out of their junction blocks, and leave the combo meter to last. Those relays are up in the engine compartment boxes.
So there are a couple of things that you can easily unplug on the first pass, to see if you can eliminate them as the cause....or prove that one of them is. A couple more that are a little harder to get to.
I don't know if the dealership has any special type of test programs or computer that they can plug in and isolate to find this. I suspect there would have to be a self diagnostic of some sort for the engine computer, but anything beyond that I don't know. If any of this stuff scares you, then this may be a problem best resolved by the dealership.
Good luck!
P.S. I did just replace the two headlites because the brackets were broken and there was no way to adjust them. I wonder.
Open the hood, look on the back-top of the headlight. I know for a fact there is a vertical adjustment. It's about a 1/4 of the way across the bulb, from the outside edge of the light where it is close to the fender...toward the inside edge of the bulb which is on the inside by the radiator. I don't remember whether a right/left adjustment but many vehicles have both. This may be written up in your owners manual, be sure to check there if the adjustment screw isn't obvious.
Did you have this gauge fuse blowing problem PRIOR to your headlight problem? Just wondering if some coincidence, since the DRL relays are on that gauge circuit.
Actually, that leads to a related question for you on your gauge problem. Is there anything that happened recently in your vehicles history, that may provide a clue as to an area that you should focus in? e.g. Something else stopped working, something was replaced, etc.
i havnt opened the dash panel yet because its too darn hot to work on it. i will do it asap possible on a cooler day.
so your strongly suggesting to take out the dash panel first right?
"Air not coming out of a particular location, would be due to either that damper is closed when it is supposed to be open.....or the other dampers on the plenum are open when they are supposed to be closed (letting the air out of the plenum in the wrong spots)"
when i completely remove the panel, what am i suppose to look at, i know the middle vents area but what suppose to go into where? you know what i mean? can you walk me through the trouble shooting.
thank you.
No.......... I am strongly suggesting that you don't attempt this repair on your own. You don't have any experience in this, you don't have any factory manuals to guide you on disassembly or reassembly, and I don't have time to walk you thru it or the diagnosis of trying to find the problem. I think it's a recipe for disaster. You have a very real possibility of breaking more than you fix.
Know when to hold them, and know when to fold them! Technology is not at the point yet where you can do DIY heart surgery.
Try searching the internet, you may find other companies as well.
I stopped by the dealer and the service manager asked if it had been wrecked (and it had). So he said there may also be a problem with the wiring from that accident that is just now showing it's head. He wanted to start with diagnostics and go from there.
But, I decided to troubleshoot myself. I located the flasher unit behind the kick plate on the driver's side. I took the flasher out and popped the cover off and found a diode burned. So I started with a replacement flasher; which took 4 days to get.
Anyway, the flasher solved my problem, at least for now. There may be another underlying cause that may pop back up at a later date, but for now it is working.
I am wondering if my daughter had accidentlly left her flashers on for some time that caused the diode to overheat.
But, we'll see how it goes.
Again, thanks for your suggestion; I will keep it in mind, just in case.
It's up in the engine compartment, left fenderwall.
Let me know if that is blown or not.
Now with a set of test wires, apply battery voltage in one direction directly to the actuator, to see if it locks correctly. Then switch the wires and see if the actuator unlocks correctly. If the actuators work correctly, then the problem is in the control circuitry to the actuators.
If the actuator didn't work correctly, you should take the diagnosis one step further. Disconnect the actuator from the mechanical lock linkage, and try the test again. This is just making sure that the problem is indeed the actuator and not a problem with the linkage being bent or binding....preventing the actuator from doing it's job. If the actuator still doesn't work, then your actuator is bad. If the actuator works and is strong, then the problem is most likely a mechanical bind in the linkage. If the actuator is weak, then probably need to replace the actuator.
With the major problems you have with this vehicle....you should seriously consider dumping it, before spending a lot of money on parts and labor/your time :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
CE is the entry level trim, bluetooth would be on top of the line
The unmodified door lock system is all controlled by the vehicle computer, with software configuration settings loaded by the dealer. WHO KNOWS what this Omega thing has done to the computer controls, I couldn't even hazard to guess.
Here's about the only thing I could suggest....Check the following fuses which are all used 'normally' in some manner by the computer for the door lock circuitry:
- 25 A Door 1
- 25 A Door 2
- 10 A ECU B#1
- 10 A ECU Ig#1
- 7.5 A ECU-ACC
The supplemental restraint fuse circuitry are:
-10 A Dome
-7.5 A Gauge#2
-10 A MPX-B
- 10 A Ign
- 10 A ECU B#1
If it's not something simple like a blown fuse, then I think you're going to need to take it back to the Omega installer. I doubt that the dealership would work on it.
when i test the actuator, what do i exactly touch? can i use a voltage meter?
"circuitry to the actuators" what is this?
No you can't use a voltmeter. You are supplying battery power directly to the wires of the actuator, to see if the actuator will work.
"circuitry to the actuators" what is this? As mentioned previously, there is a computer circuitry involved. The switches send input signals to the computer, the computer determines what it wants to do, the output of the computer goes to the actuators.
Right now, all's you know is that the door locks don't work. You don't know whether the problem is in the switches, the computer, the actuator, or binding in the linkage. So unplugging the actuators from the computer circuitry, and applying power directly to the actuator, breaks up the problem area into a couple pieces so you can start to figure out what pieces work, and what pieces don't.
Thanks so much kiawah for what you contribute to these boards.
Pat