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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • jherzjherz Posts: 6
    I think we are probably talking different models here. I have no fuse box in the right hand foot well. Mine is located at the drivers left knee behind the coinbox or what ever it is. Plus two boxes in the engine compartment. I do have a relay called AC Relay just beside the hood latch in the engine compartment. It is one relay wide and three long. I am leaning towards it being a low pressure issue and the switches have kicked in. I shall try to have it tested for pressure.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It's Relay Block #4, and is in the passenger side, right kickpanel. If you sat in the passenger seat, and moved your feet to the right they would bump up against the right kickpanel. Take the kickpanel off.
  • bscvtbscvt Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 96 camry. The 30A pink fuse keeps blowing and two of the windows are stuck in the down position. Did you ever get it figure out?
  • In my 2002 Camry, the Cigarette Lighter no longer works. One day, there was one of those converters, where you plug one end into the cigarette lighter, and the other allows a full electrical device to be plugged in (i.e. a laptop), well it worked for a while, and then all of a sudden it appears to have shorted out. Now, nothing works when plugged into the cigarette lighter. How do I go about fixing this? Did I blow a fuse? If so, where is that fuse, so that I can check. When it comes to cars, I am fairly new to all the ins and outs of the electrical system. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Look in your owners manual, to see the location of your fuse box. It's inside the car, by the drivers left knee....but read the manual and it will show you where it's at.

    In the Fuse Box, there are a whole series of fuses. You have two specifically that you should be concerned with. There is a 15 Amp fuse for Cigarette lighter, and a 15Amp fuse for the power point. The top row of fuses has 6 fuses in it. 3rd one from the left is the cig lighter, and the one in the top right position is the power point.
  • I have a 97 camry that seem to have the same problem. First the speedometer went out. Then the power windows stop working. The next day the car wouldn't shift into fourth gear. The day after that, it wouldn't start. I took it to the Toyota dealership and no one knew what was wrong with it. I have changed the alternator and the battery since the problem started and two weeks later, it started all over. I will try the speed sensor next and keep you posted.
  • reddinsreddins Posts: 2
    The radio in my camry suddenly lost power and will not turn back on. Any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Which radio do you have?

    There are usually 3 fuses feeding the radio, but they differ based upon whether you have the standard 6 speaker, 8 speaker w/o NAV, or 8 speaker w/NAV
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Actually, it might be easier to just give these to you and you can figure out which fuses you have based on your radio.

    For the 6 speaker audio, there are two fuses:
    - 15Amp Radio#1, in the engine compartment, on the left fenderwall
    - 7.5Amp ACC Radio#2, in the passenger compartment, drivers side underdash

    The 8 speaker adds to that, an additional fuse:
    - 25Amp AMP, engine compartment, left fenderwall
  • I'm having the same problem. Something is blowing the fuse under the hood but I'm unable to see why. I replaced the fuse under the dash but that didn't help. Did you fix your radio? If so do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If your fuse is continually blowing, take it to the would be covered under warranty (unless of course you've switched out the radio yourself or modified anything).
  • I replaced the fuse in the passenger compartment (the one in the engine was fine). But the stereo still doesn't work. Is there any kind of reset button that should be pressed? I really would like not have to take it in to the dealer...
  • On our 01 Camry, the indicator that tells you that you have a light out in the back comes on to tell us that we have a brake light out. But here is the problem, there are no lights out on the car. All the brake lights work fine. The center light was burned out but we replaced that one and the dash light is still on.

    I have checked repeatedly to see if there are lights out and the only other light that is out is one of the license plate light bulbs. Any ideas???
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Two things come to mind.
    1.) When you replaced the bulb in the center light, did you replace it with the correct numbered bulb? I believe the owners manual has a listing of all of the correct bulbs that are supposed to be used.
    2.) You may have a problem with one of your dual filament brake bulbs, where it 'looks' ON to you, but in reality one of the filaments is broken and shorting against the other filament (causing it to be 'on', but dim). Dual filament bulbs have a lower wattage filament used for corner marking lights at night, and then a higher filament bulb used for the brake light. Look very closely at the bulb filaments, or since they're cheap it might just be easier to replace them. Pay attention as to how the bulb goes into the socket, there are two prongs on the bulb base, offset where one of the prongs is deeper and fits into the deeper groove in the socket. The bulb needs to go in the correct way, so the higher wattage filament gets used by the brake circuit.
  • barbfbarbf Posts: 1
    Have a 1996 toyota Camry with 97,588 miles. As i was driving this indication light came on, check the manual, says it could be the gas cap, or oxygen sensor.
    It is not the gas cap, Could this also be the plugs need to be changed, is this very expensive to repair.

    thanks :confuse:
  • jherzjherz Posts: 6
    HI Barbf.
    You didn't say which indicator light came on so I am going to guess that it is an engine problem indicator. These cover a wide range and are beyond my expertise. Usually the most common issue would be an oxygen sensor as I understand it. I would recommend that you take it in to someone that has a unit that can read the computer codes and this should tell the story.
  • The indicator light lets the driver know that a slight deviation in performance happened in the Electronic Engine Controls or the Fuel Injection systems. The signals from sensors that monitor engine performance got an unusual occurrence. The computer monitors these signals and adjust settings as it relates to the best performance inside the engine.

    The plugs are a normal change item at 60,000 miles or less depending on year make and model. Like the last post have Autozone run a free check for you. They know where the connector is on your 96 Camry.

    If its the 3s-Fe engine which means 4cylinder, a popular engine in the 92-98 Camry. Then the data link connector(DLC) is next to the left strut tower with the black plastic cap. Another area is in the passenger compartment, I believe left of the steering column knee high, under the fuse box lid. The lid pulls right off. This is where I would have them connect the scanner tool, . There is a wire bundle there open on the one end for the connector.

    The engine size sticker is under the hood. A 5x5 white sticker attached to the front of the hood, the bottom row has the engine numbers and letters. To make the light go out, remove the fuse in the engine compartment marked STOP or EFI for 10seconds. Have the ignition key OFF.
  • wanghuwanghu Posts: 2
    Couple month ago, the left turn lights flashed faster than usual. Then, it didn't work at all. Meanwhile, there is a buzz sound from the left leg position of the driver side. I checked the fuses are OK. I already unplugged the left turn lights, the buzz sound is still there when I turn on the left trun lights. Does this mean I need to replace the relay? I tried to unplug the relay, but it is too tight. Actually, the buzz sound is from a relay. Don't know if the relay problem or something else. By the way, the right turn lights are OK.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Buzz in turn relay.

    I see you disconnected the turn light. Did you actually remove the bulb? That is what will make the relay buzz some more. When a bulb burns out, the flasher will starts to go faster. Check the bulbs front and back to see which one is not lighting, then replace the bulb. Since the right side is working, I would compare lights, left against right.

    Its easier to do at night or in the shade.
  • wanghuwanghu Posts: 2
    I removed the left side bulbs in both front and back. But even before I removed them, the relay buzz. Do you suggest I replace all the bulbs first and then replace the relay?

  • I have a 92 camry LE automatic 187,000 miles. While driving today all 4 doors unlocked automatically. Pressed the door lock button but it went back to unlock position. Appreciate the help.

  • Relay buzz

    Id replace the bulbs that are not working when you compare it to the other side. I just got back to my email to answer your question I hope it is going well.
  • Locks not locking.

    Try removing the lock relay first then reinstall I have a 93 and could check to see where it is. I think its the one in the engine compartment fuse box. Also there is a black box up under the left rear fender in the trunk I think it is related to your problem because I replaced them when we had some electric problem on Camry's back in the late 90's.I got to search this out first. You cant see it unless the wall cover is removed.
  • My ac and heater fan on my 01 Camry is not working properly. The only speed it works on is high. It does not turn on for the other 3 selections. I see there are 2 fan fuses in the engine compartment, numbers 38 and 39 which are type B fuses.
    Could one of these be the problem or could something else be causing this? Also how would I remove these type B fuses, they don't seem to be the regular pull out.

    Thanks for your help
  • hmyershmyers Posts: 14
    i have a relatively new battery.
    when left overnight either plugged in or not (i'm in canada with block heaters) my car won't start in the morning.

    weird things about my car:
    there is power to the radio but no sound
    interior lights do not work
    headlights come on whether switched on or not (switch does nothing)
    power windows and locks (sort of) work
    brake lights and signal lights work
    rear defrost works

    should i just replace all of the fuses? please help.
  • I think you disconnect battery when parked overnight?

    It sounds like the headlight switch is crossing circuits . Since the interior lights dont work and the headlight switch is not working Most cars only have a circuit breaker for the headlights not a fuse. I would disconnect it for left and right headlights. I'll try and find the wire schematic before sounding like I dont know what I talking about

    Radios have two fuses one for the light other for the sound.The light is usually connected to the interior lights.
  • hmyershmyers Posts: 14
    thanks so much for your reply. it started fine overnight when it wasn't minus 20 degrees celcius!

    no, i don't disconnect the battery when parked overnight, it just drains itself in the cold weather even when the block heater is plugged in. (i checked the extension cord that i'm using to plug in the car and it has power).

    so i'm thinking, the block heater may not be doing its job, or something left on (i.e. broken interior lights or head lights) are draining the battery overnight.

    recently, after having a mandatory immobilizer installed, my dash lights went out too. i'm so frustrated!

    any luck finding the wiring schematic for disconnecting the headlights?
  • hmyershmyers Posts: 14
    i forgot to mention that the wipers work but the wiper fluid does not spray.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Start by checking that your basic power is in excellent shape, I suspect a bad battery or a lot of corrosion on your battery terminals, or you could easily have a bad cell in the battery. Go to an autoparts store chain and have them check your battery and alternator, this is usually a free test. They'll load test both battery and alternator while they are in the vehicle.
  • hmyershmyers Posts: 14
    Great. I'll do that tomorrow morning. There is NO corrosion on the battery terminals and the battery is new (last 2 months).

    I just bought a fuse tester and replaced some fuses so now the radio, clock, power locks, sun visor and front seat interior lights and cigarette lighter work. hooray!

    Then I did some tests...

    took out all 4 15V head light fuses = no lights
    put in L & R fuses for low head lights = no lights
    put in L & R fuses for high head lights = lights work
    the head light switch being on or off did not effect anything

    also, just realized that neither L or R front turn signals work...
    also, the L&R low head light fuses were in some goopy glue type stuff...
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