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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Pick up a little volt/ohm meter while you are there. Use the ohmmeter setting to verify that the old fuse is okay. Either digital or analog is fine, as long as it handles both volts and ohms.

    Radio Shack would also have them. Perhaps 10-20 buck range.
  • faffaf Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Camry and tonight the plug from my cell phone charger fell apart in the socket. Neither sockets now work and I saw it could be a relay adapter and that is do I get to the inside of the socket (the one under the dash)? A small part fell into the socket and behind the housing of the socket and this small piece needs to come out so I can fix the relay.
  • hello. i have a 1993 camry LE 2.2L. i noticed my car eats up my gas really fast than usual. also my car's performance is kind of sluggish. when i accelerate, it jsut doesnt give that extra kick. can anyone please tell me the symptoms of excessive gas consumption? i also got a leak coming from my engine. here are some pics link title link title
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The leak seems to be a relatively minor oil leak from the valve cover gasket. This is an easy fix for a professional mechanic. The other problem I can't help you with; but again, please see a good mechanic -- get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Could be any number of things....when's the last time you had a tune up?
  • imupaboveimupabove Posts: 67
    last year. yeah that what i was thinking, a tune up. i just want to know what is really wrong before i pay a shop, peace of mind ;].
  • imupaboveimupabove Posts: 67
    about the valve cover gasket, what will need to be replaced for this? thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Just the gasket, but of course the valve cover has to come off.

    This shouldn't cost big bucks.
  • imupaboveimupabove Posts: 67
    so by looking at the pics i uploaded, are sure its the gasket cover? can i just buy the gasket and replace it myself?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I'm not totally sure; that's why you should have someone look at it in person.

    It's not a hard job if there are no obstructions around the valve cover. I did it once on my former '80 Volvo 240, and it was pretty easy. You should find out how much to torque the bolts once you put the new gasket in. (Torque should be a very low number, like around 10 ft-lbs.
  • imupaboveimupabove Posts: 67
    did you see the pictures of my engine and distribution cap leaks/gunk build up? would you happen to know what is causing those leaks? when im at a full stop then i accelerate, it feels like my car weighs a ton. the performance just doesnt feel the same as before. thanks.
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Posts: 24
    edited March 2010
    Your question was answered by a few people. Kiawah (resident guru) gave you a suggestion.

    Since you cannot understand the specifics of automobile function...........take the advice and bring it to a mechanic who can properly look at the leak, perfom the fix, and test drive your vehicle to find out the cause of the sluggish performance.
  • i have found the fuse for my 1994 camry power windows under the dash but can someone tell me where the relay is located pleeeeease
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Please turn your CAPS LOCK off, it makes it very difficult to read.

    In regards to your dome light fuse, you shoud never replace the correctly rated fuse with a higher fuse. Perhaps someone had swapped your fuses and had the incorrectly rated amperage fuse in that position, in which case it would blow all the time and you would have the failures you had. I guess it is also possible that someone put the incorrect dome bulb in the vehicle, thereby drawing too much current.

    Each wire has a given rating it can carry, before it gets hot, melts the insulation on the wire, and then either shorts out or creates a fire. A fuse is put on that wire, which is just a little less than the wire capacity, so that it blows first before you ruin your wiring.

    Rewiring a circuit because the wire burnt can easily be hundreds of dollars to repair, you should never risk that by randomly increasing the fuse amperage.

    Check the fuse position, and look in the owners manual, the fuse box cover, or the factory service manual to see the correct fuse amperage for that fuse position.
  • I'm having a similar problem with my 1999 camry - the bulb which illuminates the control for where the fan blows (face, seat, defogger, etc.) doesn't come on unless I tap it. either a bad bulb or bad connection. wondering if anybody could let me know how to get to it.
  • I hate to be dumb but I do not understand the solution in response that seemed was "user error" or LOL.-problem solved. I have a 2007 and the left headlight goes out now and then. Was it the relay? OR a different problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Wiring control varies by year, but let's talk 2007 model.

    You don't specify whether it is Low Beam, DRL, or High beam that you are having a problem I'll assume it is low beam headlight on one side that isn't working.

    To power each side low beam, there is a relay, then a fuse, then the low beam light bulb.

    I would suspect a bulb or bulb connector problem, but it really could be any of the three causing the problem.

    To isolate the problem, the two easiest to swap are the fuses (engine compartment, drivers wheel well fuse box), and then the bulbs. Check carefully the connector on the bulb, and you don't want to get finger grease on a high temperature halogen bulb. Make sure you are swapping the correct low beam bulb (assuming that is the bulb with the problem). If the problem moves when you swap either the fuse or the bulb, then you've proved the failing component. You may just want to replace the bulb, they're cheap you from having to mess around with the other side.

    If not, then suspect the relay. It's on an inner circuit board underneath the fuse, much harder to get to.

    Good luck.
  • songregsongreg Posts: 2
    my 1997 camry will not start, I can hear a humming coming from the fuse block under the hood next to the battery. I removed the top of the fuse block and one of the large black fuses is making a humming noise. Could this be why my care won't start?
  • Check your relays!
  • songregsongreg Posts: 2
    thanks, I'll have my son-inlaw do that
  • idrissidriss Posts: 1
    Hi all, I'm very glad to joined you on this forum, hoping help from you soon if you can. I got problem with my Camry 1995, yesterday when I got in the car the windows, the AC and (speed and gass) readers didn't work, and battery doesn't charge too. I figured it was a fuse gauge 10A was blew and I replaced it a new gauge 10A very thing gets work fine but as soon as I move shift that fuse blew too and I tryed couble times to put a new fuse but it keeps blew once I move shift to drive. Any idea to help me. I'd like to fix this problem with low cost so can I fix this by myself? how? if not how mach do think it will cost me. Thanks
  • There are a lot of things you can check, but start here. Open the trunk - on the drivers side by the hinge area, there should be a bundle of wires that run to the lights in the back on the trunk lid. This is a typical wear spot for Camrys. Check to see if the tail wires are shorting onto the body (rubbed bare). If they are, it will cause all sorts of trouble for the car, including blowing the 10A gauge fuse. Repair the wire (with connectors), put some extra protection around them and you should be good to go.
  • Sorry - I didn't fully answer your question. If it is the short in the wires (your back up lights are probably blowing the fuse when you shift it) then this will be your cost.

    1.59 for wire connectors
    12.99 for the connector pliers
    .59 for the electric tape to add extra protection
    2.99 for extra wire sheath
    1.99 for some extra wire to replace the damaged wiring

    Don't just splice the wires with a twist and tape, use wire connectors, please.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As you have figured out, the 10A GAUGE fuse feeds a lot of different things.

    I would suggest you check two things first, which are typical problems:
    - open the trunk, and lay in on your back with your head up by the drivers side hinge. Look for any frayed wires that may scrape metal when the trunk lid is opened shut. Make sure you don't lock yourself in.
    - check the switch up on the transmission, which detects when it's in reverse and turns on the back up lights.
  • justlostjustlost Posts: 6
    Had a 96 Camry blowing fuse when I put it in gear. The brake pedal was hitting a wire that had a bare spot worn in over the years, since you use the brake to shift into drive.
  • iamjoekingiamjoeking Posts: 1
    All of a sudden my power windows, ac, automatic seatbelts, power windows all stopped working. The car's battery is pretty new (less than a year old) and the 15-20 fuses are all fine.

    Can anyone help me?
  • Thanks this was very useful information. I used this along with the below link to replace my fused Dome Light. mry

    How does one pluck out a fuse that is sitting in theFuse/Relay box inside the Dashboard compartment? Is there a cheap plier that I can buy somewhere that I can just leave it in the box when I don't need it?

  • The Parking Brake light, which says 'BRAKE' on the dashboard comes on sometimes when I start my car. I don't use my Parking Brake at all. It is obviously a wiring loose connection. Anyone has faced this problem before and how was it resolved?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Probably a grounded wire at the emergency brake lever, or a stuck or broken micro-switch down there. You might be able to remove the boot surrounding the lever and see what's up down there.
  • I just bought a 1997 Camry LE and I noticed that the Dashboard is totally dark and does not have any light to be able to see the Dashboard controls like clock, radio etc,. I cannot even see what gear the vehicle is running on!

    Is this normal or is there a fused bulb that should be illuminating the dashboard I should be checking for?

    Another thing I noticed was that the radio will not work till I switch on the Headlight!! It looks to me like the radio wiring got somehow hitched to the Head light circuit. Anyone has any ideas how to fix this?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Suspect that someone hacked into the wiring (possibly a replacement radio), and possibly cut into the wire that provided power to the dash lights, and used it to feed power to the radio.
  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    The key turns fine, when I put it in the ignition, bells ding and everything seems ok, when I turn the key everything dies, no radio, lights, no click to the starter...nothing...any suggestions???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Jiggle the transmission lever (presuming this is an automatic) to see if the neutral safety switch is misaligned, or...step on the brake and shift to neutral and try to start it. If that works, then the neutral safety switch is out of whack.

    Another way to test the neutral safety switch on an automatic is to bypass it by placing a simple remote starter on the starter relay. The car won't actually run like this, but it will "crank", telling you that there's nothing wrong with the starter at least.

    It is possible that your ignition switch is also defective, and not sending current to the starter relay. This can be checked out with a simple test light on the starter relay contact that connects to the ignition switch wiring. Turning your key to start should illuminate the test light.
  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with the car in neutral, this was an "all at once" problem the car started fine when I went to the store, and wouldn't start 15 minutes later. The battery alternator and starter all seem to be fine, the problem isn't in the key and tunbler they work fine, the parts dept at Toyota says the ignition question is wher the heck is the switch and how do I go about replacing it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2010
    Oh I think they mean the electrical part that plugs into the ignition tumbler and lock.

    But this is just a wild guess on their part. You should have the starter relay tested to see if you get ignition current to the starter relay when you twist the key. If you do get current each time you twist the key, then going through all that trouble to extract the ignition lock and switch would have been for nothing.

    Also it can still be your neutral safety switch, which will interrupt current to the starter relay, giving you the false idea that the ignition switch is bad.
  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    They told me that if I popped a cap on the shift housing that there is a lever (switch) that can be depressed to bypass the neutral safety switch,. I did as they suggested and I still have the same problem...I did notice that since this has started that I can't shift even with the brake depressed unless i push that bypass down...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    No, you're just getting one bad piece of advice after another. What they were referring to was the shift-interlock mechanism which can be by-passed. THis has nothing to do with the Neutral Safety Switch.

    You don't need to step on a brake to START a car, right? Only to shift it.

    So you have TWO problems. One is probably a bad brake switch.

    Now on a CLUTCH car you need to step on the clutch to start the car.
  • Ok. I need to further clarify. The Dash lights fine on the Radio controls, but it is dark on the Gear and the A/C controls area. I will get the wiring checked. Any idea how much this kind of work costs? I would think the guy would have to open up and check the wiring and fuses for those areas..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Okay. Has anyone checked the fusible links in the wiring on this car? These are usually found running off a wire from the positive battery cable and then along the inner fender liner. There may be more than one fusible link, and they may branch from the lighting to also the starter relay. This sounds like something you should definitely investigate.

    Fusibles are tricky---they might "look" okay but aren't.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited May 2010
    You're giving some conflicting info.

    You first said you had no dash lights and used radio as example. Then you said you had dash lights on your radio.

    Let's backup and so some basics.

    With a voltmeter, can you tell me what the voltage of the battery is.

    Then go to the cigarette lighter, and carefully put the probe onto the center contact point (without touching the sides), and tell me what that voltage is. The key will need to be in the accessory or on position.
  • Sorry about the confusion, it looks like the radio was replaced before I bought the car and the wiring got screwed up when the radio was replaced. So I am going to take it to the mechanic tomorrow to have it fixed.
  • Thanks a bunch bperrico, my clock went out 3 years ago.I had given up on locating this "secret fuse box"...I found it now and replaced the blown and the clock is working again!! Thank you
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    The interior lights don't work on my 94 Camry XLE. I can't find a fuse that fixes the problem, can anyone give me a suggestion
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the 10A Panel fuse.

    Upstream (closer to the battery), is the Tail Relay, which is turned on by the light control switch.
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    edited June 2010
    How is the Tail Relay related to the interior lights. The 10A fuse is OK. Where could I get The Electrical Wiring Diagram withought buying the manuals?
  • nick84nick84 Posts: 1
    Kiawah / Dave:

    Just saw the message you posted in 2008. Now my car has same problem (2001camry). Can you send me some photos of the "flasher 1" to "flasher 3"? My email is [email protected]

    Thank you,
  • For the last few days the dashboard rear indicator light goes on either when ignition is turned on or when car is placed in gear and remains so until next restart.

    Dealer wants $49 as baseline " start to search" price.

    Anything I can do other than black tape over indicator light and my wife or I regularly checking lights in rear before driving off?

    Thanks in advance to those who take the time to read and respond to this post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You might check to see if there is any corrosion around the bulb contacts or the plug in connector back there. This light could be triggered by a slight voltage drop.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you turn on the lights, the tail relay is turned on which supplies power to all of the many circuits and light bulbs that are on at night.
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