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Comments
Radio Shack would also have them. Perhaps 10-20 buck range.
Thanks
This shouldn't cost big bucks.
It's not a hard job if there are no obstructions around the valve cover. I did it once on my former '80 Volvo 240, and it was pretty easy. You should find out how much to torque the bolts once you put the new gasket in. (Torque should be a very low number, like around 10 ft-lbs.
Since you cannot understand the specifics of automobile function...........take the advice and bring it to a mechanic who can properly look at the leak, perfom the fix, and test drive your vehicle to find out the cause of the sluggish performance.
I HATE THE DARK ALSO...FINALLY A FRIEND DECIDED TO HELP ..AND HE CORRECTLY CONCLUDED THAT OUR CARS ARE OLDER AND NEEDED A HIGHER FUSE VOLTAGE...SO REPLACE THAT FUSE TO A HIGHER VALUE.
CAN'T REMEMBER HOW MUCH STRONGER HE CHOSE..SO GO UP INCREMENTALLY..IF I'M NOT MAKING SENSE, RESPOND BACK TO ME ON MY PERSONAL EMAIL ADDRESS KRISO@PACBELL.NET AND I PROMISE TO GET YOU THE EXACT INFO. IT'S NEVER BLOWN OUT SINCE HE DID THIS FOR ME!
Please turn your CAPS LOCK off, it makes it very difficult to read.
In regards to your dome light fuse, you shoud never replace the correctly rated fuse with a higher fuse. Perhaps someone had swapped your fuses and had the incorrectly rated amperage fuse in that position, in which case it would blow all the time and you would have the failures you had. I guess it is also possible that someone put the incorrect dome bulb in the vehicle, thereby drawing too much current.
Each wire has a given rating it can carry, before it gets hot, melts the insulation on the wire, and then either shorts out or creates a fire. A fuse is put on that wire, which is just a little less than the wire capacity, so that it blows first before you ruin your wiring.
Rewiring a circuit because the wire burnt can easily be hundreds of dollars to repair, you should never risk that by randomly increasing the fuse amperage.
Check the fuse position, and look in the owners manual, the fuse box cover, or the factory service manual to see the correct fuse amperage for that fuse position.
You don't specify whether it is Low Beam, DRL, or High beam that you are having a problem with....so I'll assume it is low beam headlight on one side that isn't working.
To power each side low beam, there is a relay, then a fuse, then the low beam light bulb.
I would suspect a bulb or bulb connector problem, but it really could be any of the three causing the problem.
To isolate the problem, the two easiest to swap are the fuses (engine compartment, drivers wheel well fuse box), and then the bulbs. Check carefully the connector on the bulb, and you don't want to get finger grease on a high temperature halogen bulb. Make sure you are swapping the correct low beam bulb (assuming that is the bulb with the problem). If the problem moves when you swap either the fuse or the bulb, then you've proved the failing component. You may just want to replace the bulb, they're cheap enough...save you from having to mess around with the other side.
If not, then suspect the relay. It's on an inner circuit board underneath the fuse, much harder to get to.
Good luck.
1.59 for wire connectors
12.99 for the connector pliers
.59 for the electric tape to add extra protection
2.99 for extra wire sheath
1.99 for some extra wire to replace the damaged wiring
Don't just splice the wires with a twist and tape, use wire connectors, please.
I would suggest you check two things first, which are typical problems:
- open the trunk, and lay in on your back with your head up by the drivers side hinge. Look for any frayed wires that may scrape metal when the trunk lid is opened shut. Make sure you don't lock yourself in.
- check the switch up on the transmission, which detects when it's in reverse and turns on the back up lights.
Can anyone help me?
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/13q93-changing-dome-light-for-a-97-toyota-ca- mry
How does one pluck out a fuse that is sitting in theFuse/Relay box inside the Dashboard compartment? Is there a cheap plier that I can buy somewhere that I can just leave it in the box when I don't need it?
Neil
Is this normal or is there a fused bulb that should be illuminating the dashboard I should be checking for?
Another thing I noticed was that the radio will not work till I switch on the Headlight!! It looks to me like the radio wiring got somehow hitched to the Head light circuit. Anyone has any ideas how to fix this?
Another way to test the neutral safety switch on an automatic is to bypass it by placing a simple remote starter on the starter relay. The car won't actually run like this, but it will "crank", telling you that there's nothing wrong with the starter at least.
It is possible that your ignition switch is also defective, and not sending current to the starter relay. This can be checked out with a simple test light on the starter relay contact that connects to the ignition switch wiring. Turning your key to start should illuminate the test light.
But this is just a wild guess on their part. You should have the starter relay tested to see if you get ignition current to the starter relay when you twist the key. If you do get current each time you twist the key, then going through all that trouble to extract the ignition lock and switch would have been for nothing.
Also it can still be your neutral safety switch, which will interrupt current to the starter relay, giving you the false idea that the ignition switch is bad.
You don't need to step on a brake to START a car, right? Only to shift it.
So you have TWO problems. One is probably a bad brake switch.
Now on a CLUTCH car you need to step on the clutch to start the car.
Fusibles are tricky---they might "look" okay but aren't.
You first said you had no dash lights and used radio as example. Then you said you had dash lights on your radio.
Let's backup and so some basics.
With a voltmeter, can you tell me what the voltage of the battery is.
Then go to the cigarette lighter, and carefully put the probe onto the center contact point (without touching the sides), and tell me what that voltage is. The key will need to be in the accessory or on position.
Upstream (closer to the battery), is the Tail Relay, which is turned on by the light control switch.
Just saw the message you posted in 2008. Now my car has same problem (2001camry). Can you send me some photos of the "flasher 1" to "flasher 3"? My email is bk7482006@yahoo.com.
Thank you,
Nick
Dealer wants $49 as baseline " start to search" price.
Anything I can do other than black tape over indicator light and my wife or I regularly checking lights in rear before driving off?
Thanks in advance to those who take the time to read and respond to this post.