Chevrolet Cobalt Electrical Problems

123457

Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,379
    edited July 2012
    >RF cruise control

    What's "RF"?

    Disconnect the cruise control.

    You need to have the transmission scanned. Sounds like something is losing electricity for a control module. When transmissions detect they've lost control of the shift timing, they revert to a limp mode which gives a quick shift to prevent clutch slippage.

    I assume your car has a transponder in the key and does have a security system? I know if mine is opened manually by key without using the remote after using the remote to lock, it sounds the security horn until the key goes into the ignition lock. Odd, but logical. I'm assuming the same security system w/ transponder key applies to the base models.

    Do some reading about connection problems in the fuse box giving strange symptoms. To me, this sounds suspiciously like it might be related.

    Although when I can get to them, I'll read about the security and transponder in my FSM set for 2008. If I find there's a relationship where the security system affects the shift times as part of security, I'll post it.

    Good luck. I'd do lots of searching and reading on the net.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • stower17stower17 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry to reply to something so old but I'd like to reply to your post. I drive a 2008 cobalt and my daytime running lights do not come on anymore. I have a burned wiring harness that runs along the radiator core support. Any idea if GM will issue a recall?
  • gteachmangteachman Member Posts: 4
    Fortunately, I haven't had that electrical problem. Mine seems to be more in the electronics rather than electrical. In fact, just this past Friday, all the idiot lights came on and the DIC rolled through most if not all the info messages, like, Low Fuel (more than 1/2 tank), no power steering (sometimes yes, sometimes no), low tire pressure, etc. Then the indicator light for the security system came on (I don't have a security system) and the automatic shifted like it was my teenager just learning how to drive a stick. If that wasn't enough, the radio would be mono for a little while then stereo and then back to mono and all the analog gauges (fuel, RPM, speedometer) were pegging maximum/minimum values. It did all of that again this morning and I drove it right to the GM dealer and had the service advisor look at the dashboard while the motor was running so he could see what I was talking about. I'd brought it in before but they said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. They agreed it was acting up. After three hours of tracing wiring, reseating all control module(s) connections, checking wires for abrasion, they found NOTHING wrong. It took them about 8 hours to do all of that and have come to no resolution. They still have the car and want to test drive it in the morning to see if it will act up for them. At this point, I don't have a great deal of confidence in either the vehicle (no long trips in this car!) or GM's ability to find/fix the problem. I've spoken with other Cobalt owners, of different years, and they have had similar problems, with similar results from service techs. If this car wasn't already paid for I'd seriously consider trading it in. However, I've kind of become accustomed to no car payments. But, still...

    Sorry about your problem. I'll have to watch out for that one.

    Thanks for passing it on.

    George
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning stower17,
    If you would like for us to check and see if there are any open recalls on your vehicle, please email us the last 8 digits of your VIN at [email protected] with your inquiry and we'd be happy to do so.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning George,

    We look forward to an update on what your dealership has found after keeping your vehicle overnight. If you would like for us to follow up on this with them, please send the following information to us via email at [email protected] so we can set up a Service Request: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • stower17stower17 Member Posts: 5
    I wish you luck in getting the problems fixed. There have been times when my radio will sound like its in mono mode and if i turn the radio off then back on its back in stereo. Very odd for sure. My DIC has done weird things throughout the years and sometimes the screen will display false messages. All my cars prior to this one have been 20 years or older with triple the mileage and they have fewer problems than these cobalts! Very frustrating.
  • judycp0judycp0 Member Posts: 1
    I went out Wednesday morning to start my car, and it wouldn't start. Not even a clicking noise. The horn worked and the radio. So, it doesn't appear to be the battery. When the wrecker driver arrived, he tried several times to start it and the same thing. However, by the time it got to the dealership it started. It was there for two days and it always started and they said they can't figure out what's wrong with it if it starts all the time. So, I went and picked it up yesterday and am just hoping I don't get stuck far away from home late at night. The same thing happened in April of 2011, but it started by the time it got towed to the dealership. So, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. It happened again in May of 2011 and they replaced the battery. They won't do anything now though. So, I'm just stuck until the next time it happens. Any suggestions from anyone about what I could do to find the problem if this happens when I'm away from home by myself?
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning judycp0,

    We're sorry to hear that your car wouldn't start for you last week, and that the problem was not able to be duplicated by your dealership when you went in. Keep us posted on if this should happen again as we're here to assist! We can be reached at [email protected]

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • smlemcoolsmlemcool Member Posts: 3
    I had an issue like this with my car. It just would not start, and after paying to have it towed, and for the dealership to run diagnostics on it, i ended up paying about $150 for a blown fuse!! Yes a little $4 fuse cost me almost $150. There is a fuse under the hood that controls the car starting. You might want to pull up a diagram and see where it is at on your car. Try changing it out. Also, I have a battery (in my trunk), that Autozone ran tests on to see if it was bad, and it came back OK. However, since my car wasn't starting, and I tried the fuse fix, I went ahead and bought a new battery. Vola my car started again. These are the 2 things I have had to do when my car would just not start. Gotta love these P.O.S. Cobalts. I am stuck with one full of electrical issues!!!! Never again will I buy a Chevy!!!!
  • tritter63tritter63 Member Posts: 1
    Help!!! My daughter just purchased a 2007 Cobalt in July - she hasn't even made her first payment yet and the car won't start. :mad: :cry: We are so frustrated and aggrevated. We can't afford to have it towed to the dealership - she doesn't have a warranty either. We have had the battery checked - they said it is good but it is old. We have replaced the starter - that wasn't the problem. Any other suggestions? We need her car running but can't even afford to get it towed much less pay to get a diagnostic on it. PLEASE PLEASE we are needing to get it fixed!! :mad:
  • smlemcoolsmlemcool Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. I did a post regarding this on my 05 Chevy Cobalt. I did have mine towed to the dealership and it ended up being a fuse. Open the fuse box under the hood. Look for a 20amp IP IGN fuse. Replace it and see if the car will start. I also had my battery checked on a different occasion and they said it was good, but my car still would not start. I replaced the "good battery" and it started again. But I would start with the fuse. Here is a diagram I found online, it is at the very bottom of the post. http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/0mom1-hi-inside-chevy-cobalt-fuse-box-position.h- tml
    You will see this fuse located to the left of one of the bigger fuses called "Cool SER/PAR". The fuse you are looking for is a smaller fuse. GOOD LUCK!!! :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Does the engine crank over and not start, or do you turn the key and NOTHING?
  • rachellauren90rachellauren90 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my cobalt for only a short time and from the time i drove off the lot until about a month after everything was great. Then one day as I was driving I flicked the button to turn my power to my radio on and my car started shaking and soon after cut completely off. I couldn't do anything!!! I was in the middle of the road and my key wouldn't even turn in the ignition. I had it towed to my mechanic and he informed me that it was electrical problems in the car so in return I marched myself up to the dealership and demanded why they didnt inform me on the problems with my car before I bought it. She let me know that it wasnt broken before I bought it. Really? Anywho I had it fixed and sure enough after the electrical problems were "fixed" my power locks in my car went out. I would lock my car from the door panel (because I didnt have the nifty remote thingy) and noticed when i went out to my car about 30 minutes later that my car was unlocked! I didnt understand it until I heard a sound like a motor clicking on and off happening. I walked out to my car and sure enough it was locking and unlocking my car. I had to have them disconnect my power locks just so i could do it manually. At the same time having that situation fixed, my mechanic informed that i had a leak in my fuel tank... ALL WITHIN 2-3 MONTHS OF ME OWNING THIS CAR!! My speakers are done for and I hardly ever use the radio. I could blame this on the dealership and partly i do but honestly I have seen so many others with the same problems with this car. I dont know what to do anymore... I am honestly losing hope.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good afternoon rachellauren90,
    We're sorry that you've had so many difficulties with your Cobalt. If you would like for us to check into this further, please email us at [email protected] (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • radguy1987radguy1987 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    i have a 2008 chevy cobalt i have had it for almost 3 months now it was running fine until a day ago i left my house for work but my car wouldnt start. i called my chevy roadside and they came and gave me a jump car was running fine until i turned it off and back on again. the car began shaking horribly and i had to take it to a mechanic and they are saying my cobalt is full of electric issues. i am the sole provider for my family and i think this car might ruin everything any help would be appreciated it is coming up with internal failure codes.
  • cwcrombiecwcrombie Member Posts: 1
    I am the original owner of my 2008 Chevy Cobalt. I have had to have a couple of minor things done and have taken it in more than once for recall problems. I have recently been contacted by GM to participate in something regarding the engine. My issues are as follows; My airbag notification came on about a month ago. At first it was an on and off thing. Now it stays on all the time. I have had no accidents or problems with this before. This weekend I got in the car and my stock stereo was blinking. The whole thing. It was not playing anything and I did not want to touch it or mess with it while driving so when I got to my destination, turned the car off, then turned the key to turn on the stereo, the stereo was blank. It has not turned on since. Just no power whatsoever. My tire pressure says its low and needs to be looked at but that was a problem that I have had fixed. That just started again when the stereo went out. My pressure reads at 23 lbs per tire. Im not sure how my brand new tires (less than 1200 mi) could all 4 lose so much pressure over night with no signs of trauma. Please advise. :sick:
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    radguy1987 and cwcrombie,

    We see that you're both having some troubles with your Cobalts, and if you wanted for us to check into anything further with you (warranty or recall information, working with a dealership, etc), please contact us at [email protected] with more details (including your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • cobaltls2005cobaltls2005 Member Posts: 1
    Change the battery in your key fob! I just got a new battery from Fred Meyer for $4.29 and my car alarm no longer goes off randomly like it started doing when the battery was crying for help. Hope that fixes it for you too!
  • xxchevyxxxxchevyxx Member Posts: 1
    Dude every car has it's problems (we don't live in a perfect world). I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS and I have a friend with 2005 Cobalt aswell and we both have little or no problems with our cars. I think your problem might be lack of maintenance and NO TLC, It also sounds like you have an electrical problem that can be easily fixed if you have any money (which you make it seem like you don't). For your information a diagnostic of your car from the dealership doesn't cost an arm and a leg...also it wouldn't be "GUESSING" the problem, it will tell you exactly what needs to be repaired. As for your break pedal problem maybe try spraying some WD40 where the pedal sticks. Lastly your little sueing the pants off Chevy rant will NEVER become a reality lol.
  • rhtsdaughterrhtsdaughter Member Posts: 1
    hi, I also have had problems with both my tires & the radio, which also goes blank. Not sure what to do because I bought my car used. Very sad. Will go back to Altima.
  • boopadoop1boopadoop1 Member Posts: 3
    edited February 2013
    I have a 2008 chevy Cobalt bought new in Sept 2008. The very 1st winter check engine light came on but went out by the next day.I called the dealer and they told me because the light went out they could not check to see why the light came on. Now a few weeks ago we had temperatures below freezing for a week. My check engine light came on and stayed on.I paid $95 for a diagnostic and was told the secondary air valve was corroded shut and was rusted due to moisture in the system. I have a problem with the ignition turning but that is covered under the recall,however this problem is not covered estimate $550 So I email GM,they offer to pay for everything except $200 My argument is the car has less than 40k miles on it.Why does a part that corrodes so easily cost $500 to replace? So I leave.The very next day the temp rises above freezing and magically the check engine light goes out,and stays out. Two days later it's raining pretty hard and I am travelling down a steep hill.My brake light comes on and stays on for a few seconds,goes out,then the brake fluid low light just flashed briefly and goes out. I check the brake fluid and master cylinder is full. I report it to GM and my dealer.They insist my car has more problems.The next day the tire pressure low warning light comes on and stays on.I check the tire pressure,and it's normal.I go to a local gas station to check tire pressure but their pump is malfunctioning.Go back next day. Check pressure,it's normal and as soon as temp outside rises above freezing,pressure low light goes out.I think my car has a sensor problem that occurs when the temp drops below freezing. GM will keep their offer to pay $300 of the $500 original estimate,but I may be paying $300 for something that isn't broken! I think GM should recall the Cobalt. Too many issues. I still owe 5k on a vehicle that's trying to nickel and dime me to death and it has less than 40k miles on it! speakers take turns working and not working when I had it 2 yrs. :lemon:
  • boopadoop1boopadoop1 Member Posts: 3
    My stereo speakers take turns on which ones want to work,front to back left to right.Right now the only speaker working is the left rear speaker. GM stopped making this car for a reason,and now I'm beginning to understand why!
  • dumdonndumdonn Member Posts: 6
    I sued gm and the dealer both denied but settled oout of court. got all my expenses plus a few more dollars. will never buy anothe rgm product. no quality control or inspection at factory. gm just rolls them out and hope for best. enough complaints then recall otherwise all repairs on your own.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,379
    edited February 2013
    >I sued gm and the dealer

    What was the court name and location and the names on the suit? This would be interesting to see the claims that GM and the dealer settled on. Case/docket number? Attorney name? or did you use small claims?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • kaylavkaylav Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my car in feb. of 2009 and it had 29,000 miles on it. now four years and a 100 thousand miles later i am having nothing but problems. about a year or so ago my car started cutting out real bad while i was driving and took it to a mechanic. in town and he couldn't find anything wrong other than just so happened my ignition locked up and had to be replaced.. a week later a recall letter was sent and no i did not get fully reimbursed. well then the real fun started. every time i get gas my car will not start. it wont turn over and when it does it sputters and dies. after that now just when i go to get into it it will start but then start idling really hard and my rpms go up and down and then it will die. just today we got gas and my fiance decided to leave it running but as soon as he pulled the gas cap off it hissed letting out air from the pressure and my car died. I've taken it everywhere and either it doesn't do it when its there or they have no clue. i owe more than its worth and i cannot keep having to take it to places just to pay money for someone to tell me they don't know. also not long after i got it my front speakers would only work when they wanted to and now my back ones for a year or more now are the only ones that work. my cruise control don't work it will show its on but the reset and set button will not turn it on. however the buttons below it work. wire problems are my guess but as for now keeping it running and not getting stranded is my main concern and im hoping for some insight if anyone knows or has any suggestions. Its GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
  • brook88lynbrook88lyn Member Posts: 1
    My daughter almost died today!!! Her car decided to go into total engine failure with little to NO brakes and very little steering wheel capability. She is 97 lbs with no upper body strength. She had to go off the road flip and hit a tree to avoid hitting other drivers on a very busy 4 lane. I just called and was advised there was no open recall for my VIN#...hmmm..I am very very suspicious that the entire system shuts down and nothing is wrong. Hardly makes sense. Better believe I WILL have this investigated by a professional, and if I find fault or defect, I will sue! My daughter's life is worth more than that piece of crap!~ Additionally, think of all of the other innocent drivers on the road who could have fallen victim to this defective piece of crap~~ BEWARE~
  • rdesantisrdesantis Member Posts: 30
    Ok, so my tailights no longer light up when i turn my lights on, but my brake lights signals and reverse lights aswell as my headlights work fine. Although the halos on my headlights seem to be out but im not sure thats connected. My radio works fine and the DIC and lights for my AC defrost, airbag and air circulate buttons light up aswell as my warning lights. but the rest of my dash is out. ive tried the dimmer and replaced the "clster" fuse. Did i replace the wrong fuse or is it not fuse related. My dome light also works fine.

    Anyone know which fuse it is?
  • rdesantisrdesantis Member Posts: 30
    Okay, took the Problem to the dealer.... Quoted from recipt:

    "Cause: scan, no codes, no park or interior lights, check PL fuse, ok, check BCM, no power at X3 A7, trace wire back to under hood fuse block.

    Correction:repair poor connection at X5 D1, Check all lights working oK.

    It was 0.8 hrs...just charged m72$ for labour....unfortunatly my factory warranty expired 30 days before repair :(
  • dumdonndumdonn Member Posts: 6
    u will have to sue. no customer service and u can write the 3 top officials CEO dan akerson down and get no help. general motors is set up to hear and not react until u sue. be sure to quote state statute numbers with your complaint. they will settle out of court as they did with me. I should have asked for more but I just wanted to break even. even the dealer refused to help.
  • rdesantisrdesantis Member Posts: 30
    The first correction failed. Same problem occured. could not diagnose the exact issue. Since dash and tail lights operated on the same fuse, mechanic separated fuses (ran dash lights on its own fuse), one for dashlights other for tail lights. that way problem could be traced, if dash lights blew the fuse then it was that fuse, if tail lights blew its own fuse, then we would know if it was an interior or exterior issue.
    Took it home and it blew again!! Took back, tech trace problem back to tail light fuse therefore an external issue. he was going to replace an entire electrical line ($$$ in labour) and happened to do one more look around vehicle and noticed and kink and exposed wire in the trailer harness wiring. Patched the exposed wire and lights on (with another replaced fuse). Lets hope this helps ;)
  • psalazarpsalazar Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm having a very similar issue on my 07 Cobalt.
    After Dealership replaced Fuel pump Twice! It ran badly and would stall out.
    Then the Windshield wipers would go into Insanity mode.
    The dealer said "Replace the Fuse Box."
    $500 dollars later, Im broke.
    I want my money baack!!
    Did you have any luck?

    -Patrick
  • andra4andra4 Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get any response? I am having the same problems and response for my 2006 Cobalt.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Andra4,

    I'm sorry that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. May I be of some assistance to you? If you would send me, your full name, address, phone, VIN and the name of the dealership you are working with to [email protected] (attn: Marlea) I‘ll do my best to research your concern and find a resolution.

    Marlea Wilson
    GM Customer Care
  • andra4andra4 Member Posts: 2
    I tried to go to this site but it shows it as a URL that is available for purchase. Is there another way to reach you?
  • thoward5thoward5 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Chevy cobalt. Was driving it on the freeway and as soon as I got off it shut off on me. It turns over but will not start. It is throwing no codes at all. But it has no power to the fuse box under the passenger side by the radio. Any ideas why its doing this? Anyone know? Please help. I have been without a car for over two weeks and even the mechanic has no idea.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H EdmundsAdministrator Posts: 11,126
    Hi - it should be socialmedia at gm.com. Replace the word "at" with the "at" sign in email addresses. Our graphic for that isn't working at the moment.

    MODERATOR

    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • sigitysymsigitysym Member Posts: 1
    Your sputter and start issues are exactly what was happening to ours around 60K. We did the plugs, took good car of the cobalt. Anyway really scary one day pulling out of a parking lot, making a left and gave it some gas and sputter sputter (cars approaching, ahhh!) then it kicked in and went. So, that was it for us, we sold but not before finding the cause. Here is what it was, the issue was the coil packs, they deliver the charge to make the spark plugs fire. As explained to us the part the generates the charge was ok but it runs through a plastic holder and given the proximity to the block the plastic can break down and cause a short (so the associated plug will not fire or fire intermittently). Dealer showed us the old parts, it is bound to fail for everyone at some point. Fix was about $170 dollars and as explained should be good for many miles to come. Ran the car for about 2 months after that until sold. Also had the stereo speaker issue others here have noted, never looked into that.

    We have a grand cherokee now, it has issues as well. These static plastic blocks in the power window mechanism, no joke with a metal cable running over them,,, yeah that will last, they are failing one at a time. Transmission issues all well documented here on Edmunds. Neighbor runs a late 80's F150, manual 4 speed, has some rust issues but the thing has out lasted our last 2 modern vehicles. We've pretty much thrown in the towel on getting any type of reliable life out of any modern vehicle. Good Luck!
  • bktom2bktom2 Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 05 Cobalt's stereo stopped putting out sound. The radio lights up and appears to be working fine. (I can switch stations, insert cd's, etc but NO sound) I found a blown Amplifier fuse in the passenger side console fuse panel and when I replaced it, it immediately blew. Obviously a short somewhere, but where? I checked another site that mentioned the amplifier power wire leaves the back of the fuse panel and over a metal bracket that can, in time wear through the wires protective coating causing a short. Has anyone else ever heard of this? If so, where exactly is the bracket, and how do I gain access to it?
  • brandi0359brandi0359 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 chevy cobalt and I would greatly appreciate any advice I can get. When it is really cold outside my car don't want to start or it will die once I start to slow down and then the other day the gas pedal got stuck to the floor. I took it to auto zone cause the engine light was on but it wouldn't read anything. It has also locked up on me where I couldn't open the doors. I had to go to the window. In order to get it to start I have to smack close to the CD player near the passenger side.
  • anitalclarkanitalclark Member Posts: 3
    This car has been a piece of trash. It has had recalls, problems upon problems. A/C problems which somehow repaired tehmselves with the steering coloumn recall. Which the dealership said had nothing to do with it. Of course they also broke the part the turns my blinker off after you turn. Then it had the fuel pump leak which the dealership said was the worst one they had seen. They were amazed it had not caught fire. Funny cause I had taken it to them 3 times because my gas mileage had become so bad being told all 3 times nothing was wrong. Yeah that was the horrible gas leak. Now the last 3 months it has started trying to die when i pull up to a stop sign. Hmmm after researching the other problems of Cobalt owners figured it was the throttle controller. NEEDS A RECALL AGAIN! Sure enough coming home the other night my6 engine light came on. Guess what the code said. engine throttle controller. Oh did I also mention I just had a $450 bill to repair an a/c line that just cracked into. The car that keeps on sucking money. When is Chevy going to give us $10,000 off a new car? Can I apply it to a FORD? Signed so very disappointed
  • anitalclarkanitalclark Member Posts: 3
    Oh i also forgot to tell you about the radio sound. How one or two of the speakers will go on and off at will. how the lights on the dash dim at will even at night. So you know there are electrical issues also
  • salukidawgsalukidawg Member Posts: 1
    I have 2005 Chevy Cobalt, original owner that has had many problems with the electrical on this make and model. The comments from other owners are spot on, the analog gauges have on numerous occasions gone from min to max all on their own, the brake dashboard light and abs lights come on at off at the same time as the gauges needles going left and right. Now the radio won't turn off! Even with the key out of the ignition! In order to try to fix this I have been reading all of the complaints from similar owners and this is appalling to have GM not stand by the obviously recall-able electrical issues! For some reason I was able to turn the thing off after tapping/smacking close to the CD player. Now I am concerned that the next issue will be safety related. Anyone know what is causing these electrical glitches?
  • anitalclark1anitalclark1 Member Posts: 10
    my 2007 back right backup/brake light comes on and goes off at will. also, there has been several mention the spearkers going on and off at will so does mine, but that is a 2007 cobalt
  • anitalclark1anitalclark1 Member Posts: 10
    WEll I wrote this message the other day and posted it but apparantly it did not get to the queue. First, this car is a bust. How many recalls??? How many more are needed??
    The car has been hesitating for a few months when you pull up to a stop light it tries to die. I am not using some cheap gas I run Shell. WEll, I did some research on this site and have come up with the new Cobalt problemn:Throttle body/sensor. Sure enough on the way home the other night the engine light came on. Error reading Throttle body. ugh. First recall, took my car to Chevy dealer told them my gas mileage had dropped significantly. they told me that there was nothing they could find I took it in 3 times before the recall came out and then that same dealer told me that my car was the worst fuel leak they had seen. Hmmm it was a wonder I had not caught fire. Well then there was the problem of the heater going out, blinkers not working I was told it was the steering colomun. Thank God the recall came out on that, at first they told me it did not pertain to my car. Well when they fixed that my heater started working??? the blinkers started working but now they won't turn off. just a minor irritaion on that. Then the a/c line broke and I had to pay $450 to have that fixed. NOw the throttle body error. Too much Chevy give us a new Ford car!
  • blcowartblcowart Member Posts: 1
    i have had many of the same problems i have read about on here. mine is a 2008. my power steering has been out for a while. i did file a complaint and tried to research more information. my car was not covered under the recall for power steering problems. the only recall i have received is for the ignition locking up, which is about the only thing i havent had a problem with so far. i read a post someone had made on a site about being able to clean some of the parts in the steering column and that it helped. i havent been able to find that post again though. it burns me up that we pay notes on a vehicle that has the potential to get us killed. i cant afford to have the stupid thing fixed. with the wide range of year models having so many similar problems, there should have been recalls on the car itself, give us what we have paid for it and let us move on instead of pouring good money into these horrible deathtraps.
  • anitalclark1anitalclark1 Member Posts: 10
    well now my key has started sticking the throttle body light has come on twice since the first time. UGH Wonder why Chevy doesn't reply to mine. Cause I have had so mnay problemms with the dang car.
  • anitalclarkanitalclark Member Posts: 3
    Thank God I am ok, But I don't have to worry about this piece of crap any longer. Someone hit me last Monday night and it is TOTALLED! I am going back to FORD! I did not have any problems with the 9 new vehicles out of 12 that I had with them. Yipeee no more CHEVY!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,379
    So the Chevy protected you well enough that you didn't get hurt in any way yet the car was totaled. Sounds like it did a good job in the accident.

    Good luck with your Fords.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • writerwriter Member Posts: 121

    Ignition Switch Parts

    I am driving a 2010 Cobalt XFE (a cheap model with manual transmission designed for high mileage).

    Early in March, 2014 I my ignition switch broke. The car was running and I could not turn the key far enough to shut it off. Eventually, by carefully moving the key around (avoiding strain that might bend or break the key), I found that I could at least get the key out. But there was no way to shut off the electrical system.

    I eventually found that if I let the car run down to its slowest idle, I could put it in 1st gear and
    carefully let out the clutch to stall the motor. The electrical system was still active, but at least fuel was not being wasted.

    Luckily, I was at home in the underground parking (another reason to stop the engine from running unnecessarily), so I called the dealership and arranged to bring it in for repair, and then prepared the car by unloading as much of my property as possible.

    Putting the key back into the ignition switch and re-starting the car were not problems. I drove the car to the dealership in the early afternoon and explained the problem. We expected that it would be done early next day, and it was.

    It was billed as a warranty repair with $100 Cdn deductible.

    Warning signs: I can remember at least once that I had difficulty shutting off the ignition in the car. I had decided to look into it, but I eventually forgot about it. That had happened probably around a year earlier. It might have happened a second time, but I am not sure about that. I would call that, at most "infrequent".

    The invoice lists the work as follows:

    Complaint: "Check and report on unable to turn off ignition - GMPP T/P $100.00 deductible - $114.95 Diagnosis plus tax if not GMPP."

    Cause: "(2F) Jammed Ign Cylinder...Tumbler bar fell apart... and key badly worn 5430040"

    Correction: "Replace ignition lock cylinder and recode to key code. Also cut new key. Free-up and remove jammed cylinder...unable to rotate cylinder...Auth by GMPP"

    Parts:
    "1 x 20869121 Cylinder 111K2 $117.26
    1 x 15824471 Key KeyS2C $24.28"

    My final billed cost was the agreed $100 Cdn + taxes covering the deductible.

    I can see this is clearly related to the ignition problems other people are having. Ironically, I have always kept the ignition key I use on a separate key tag because I live in a Condo and need to have the car key separate from the key to open the garage door (which is locked at night). So even without knowing about that advice I had complied with the recommendation.

    I have no particular complaint about the handling of the situation overall. I do have one question. Does anyone know about the replacement part? If it is no better than the one that I had before, does that mean that I can expect problems, say in another four years?

  • brian1993brian1993 Member Posts: 1

    My car has had this problem since 40k miles. It now has over 70k miles. Ill be driving down the interstate and the power steering will go out. This isnt safe, but when I called GM they said "tough luck". Report your problem to NHTSA at 18883273246 if they receive enough complaints GM will be forced to issue a recall.

Sign In or Register to comment.