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Chrysler Pacifica Suspension Problems



  • Did you receive a letter from Chrysler regarding this additional warranty? I have an 04 which is making a clicking noise that sounds like it is coming from the front wheel well area. Thanks
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    If your engine cradle is defective and the dealer will not intervien for you with Chrysler, than by all means call 800 992 1997 and open a claim with Chrysler yourself. That should take care of it for you. Have all your maintance papers with you to prove you have followed at least schedule B. If you have been in an accident with the front end involved you will have to show the cradle was not damaged.

    This should be easy to resolve, good luck.
  • I received a letter from Chrysler advising me of the warranty. Unfortunately, I doubt they'll honor it on mine because my husband fixed the rusted-through portions on my 04 Pac.

    I too am experiencing front end "rattle", mostly when the road dips - not so much over bumps. The clicking and popping sounds I also have I assumed were CV shafts, but after reading all of this - I think I will break down and take it to the dealer and give them the TSBs mentioned. Thanks everyone! It helps to go in at least SEEMING like you know what you are talking about! haha My last visit they said I needed sway bar links and front struts (rattle noise). I walked out laughing...could they really be serious? Its not like I've been 4x4n in the damned thing.

    My engine mounts went bad at 101K, engine cradle rusted through, innner & outer tie rod ends replaced at 110K, rear axle seals have been leaking (small leaks) since 80K, headlights had to be replaced, transmission cooler leak, need a new computer and on top of all that - I have a horrendous clunking sound when the car shifts gears (up or down - it feels like someone is rear-ending me at times its so bad). Mostly upon acceleration and sharp deceleration (foot off gas). Any ideas on that one? Similar stories? (dealership says they don't feel/hear it, ha)

    What's even funnier? I still will keep the thing! Its got all the options I wanted, and even at 127k, it the engine is perfectly smooth and has been treated with synthetic oil its whole life. Its the only thing on the car NOT giving me issues, but I still love it. Is that bad? :lemon:
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    Yes I got a letter from Chrysler
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    I hope you took pictures before. I would have done the same thing welded in new metal and made it stronger than before. I was lucky my maximum care warranty took care of it. Now they are sending my deductible back.
  • davesgirl93davesgirl93 Posts: 5
    edited November 2010
    Yes, we did take pics. It's in the shop today for inspecting and to check on those tsbs. The cv shafts are 600 bux at dealer, so maybe the tsb will be cheaper and will fix it...
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    Auto Zone has cv shafts for 79 dollars life time warranty
  • I have a 2004 Pacifica and was ready to trade it in due to the corrosion on the engine cradle and then I got the letter from Chrysler. They will NOT call it a recall, they are calling it an extension of warranty even though it was never covered under warranty to begin with. They must have been in touch with the Chrysler dealerships as well because the service personnel will not call it recall either! We took ours in to have this issue looked at 2 days ago and the guy that checked us in acted as if this was the first time he had EVER heard of this happening. We got the call this morning that they are replacing it at no cost to us! Some how I would love to post that letter from Chrysler up on a website so that everybody that owns a Pacifica and has this problem will go and have it fixed. Chrysler had no intention of fixing this problem either, they had no choice to do it because the National Highway Institute would have made them send out a recall letter instead of an “Extension of Warranty”.
  • I have been searching for quite a while for someone who can modify the ECU of my 2007 Pacifica FWD.

    At the very least, I want the program changed to hold gears in 'manual' mode "no matter what" (only leave low RPM and high RPM limit in).

    I have been changing programs on other cars (either via flashing with programmer, or via sending ECU in to do the change), but have not found ANYBODY to touch the Pacifica ECU.

    Can someone please suggest any likely candidates that MIGHT be able to change my ECU?
  • I have been reading all the posts regarding the front end issues (clonking, wear, etc.). Most are reported on earlier models (2004 etc.).
    My 2007 Pacifica FWD, 66k mile, shows some early signs of 'looseness' and mild 'clonking'.
    Have later model years (after the change to the 4.0l engine, 6 spd auto) reported the issue in the same way?
  • I would love to have a copy of that letter....mine is an '04 too and I've had to have the right front strut mount replaced in January when it broke and the strut came right through the hood of my the left one is rattling and all of my motor mounts need to be replaced. I would certainly not be surprised if rusting was involved too. Drop me an [email protected]
  • So, my engine cradle was already fixed, so naturally they didn't see anything wrong. They also mentioned it was in certain states That the extended warranty was in effect. Bs. Anyhow, I got 2 new axle shafts , sway bar links, brushing, 2 new engine mounts and new transmission lines and tyranny flush dor 2k including taxes. I was pretty happy. Clunking is gone, rides like brand new again. A little disappointed that 1 of the 2 mounts they replaced was just done at 80k, & I only have 126k on it now :(
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    I understand your need for speed. but why a PAC that is more than 4500 lbs?

    I went on the rebuilder of Chrysler engines site sometime ago and saw one there. I believe it was about $150. or so.

    What year is your PAC?
  • farout, I have seen people modifying TRUCKS for crying out load. The Pacifica is actually very in line with a very popular (in Europe, not here) car class called "power waggon"; lots of high power, lowered fast wagons (BMB M5 station wagon, Audi RS6, Mercedes AMG 63 wagon, etc.450-600 hp. The enthusiast compromise between sport/speed and utility.

    Mercedes offered the R63 here in the beginning, but non one got the concept.

    Here in the US, we buy a Buick and a Corvette; what why have ONE ride that can do both? Makes more sense that suffering 95% of the time stuck in Buick (or worse: Truck SUV) and only be able to enjoy a decent ride when taking out the sports car on a Sunday afternoon.

    The Pac has the right credentials (decent suspensions setup, chassis (E Class influence), engine (the 4.0 is SOOO much better than the 3.8) and transmission (modern 6 speed auto) for a sports/power wagon.

    the end project could be
    - 265/35x22 Yokohama on 22x9.0 ACE Executive (done)
    - custom wound lowering springs (-40mm all around) (quoted)
    - tune transmission program to hold gears in manual, quicker/firmer upshifts in auto (trying to find someone to program ECU)
    - rear mounted twin turbos with mild boost w/o intercooler (10 psi max) (450 HP) or rear mounted twin turbos with higher boost with intercooler (500-600 HP) (trying to find someone to program ECU)
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Houston Posts: 134

    In the words of the '70s tennis great John McEnroe.............."YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING"...........these words were usually spoken by John to the umpires after a close call went the other way for him, but these words are the PERFECT REBUTTAL to your crazy post.............yes, crazy..................

    Where do we start ????Welll vt, the Pacifica ceased production in late 2007.......YES, THAT'S RIGHT vt, the Pacifica is a COLD, DEAD CORPSE in the automotive world..............not the platform for a new reincarnation, don't you agree ??????????

    I own a 2004 Pacifica with 95,000 miles ( original owner)..........and I like the exterior looks/lines and the interior...........but there were enough issues otherwise to make me LAUGH at your suggestion that someone is going to spend big time and bucks to resurrect the original Crossover SUV Corpse.......because that is what the Pacifica is/was......................Many, many Crossover SUV's were sold today that owe a lot to the Pacifica, the difference is this: most of them are better than the Pacifica was in it's debut ( I bought mine in January 2004!).........and technology marches on....................So, the Pacifica is dead, and better vehicles are out there..............Period................................Over and out.............vt...............
  • I have a 2004 Pacifica with 135000 mi. I had the same rattle and clunk that was described by many people. I took it to my regular front end shop and they could not find the problem (sound familiar?) So I decided to solve it myself. Here's what I found--maybe it will help someone else.

    I think there are 2 separate problems. Lots of posts mention the sway bar links, but I didn't see any that suggested the sway bar cushions. I solved the rattle at low speed over small bumps by replacing the sway bar cushions (P/N 4743163AC) about $10 each. No more rattles!

    The clunk is tougher, but I think I found it. I could cause it by hard acceleration, and after hard accel, by hard braking. Hard cornering would also cause it sometimes. I saw a lot of posts that referred to the rear control arm bushing. When I looked at mine, I found that there appeared to be a LOT of clearance designed in between the bolt and the bushing bore. What I think was happening is that when the force was reversed, (alternate acceleration and braking) the bushing overcame the friction between it and its mount, and slammed to the opposite side of the clearance. My solution was to make a spacer that fits over the bolt, and covers the unthreaded portion of the bolt. The spacer is 0.500" ID x 0.560" OD x 3.25" long. I cut a slit from one end to the other so it could expand to get over the bolt threads. I packed the bushing bore with grease to provide a little more cushion and take up the remaining clearance, but I'm not a bit sure how much good that does. Bottom line is that I cannot cause the clunk now, and I could make it any time I wanted before. It is an easy fix too, once you have the spacer--just take out the rear bolt, put the spacer on it, and replace the bolt and torque it.

    I hope this helps someone.
  • Sounds like the classical symptoms of a CV joint that's going bad.
  • 78miner, thanks for the practical tip and the good writeup for us DIYers.
    On my 07 (65k miles), I start to feel the 'small bump' effects which may be pointing at the sway bar bushings per your suggestion. Only the bushings (holding the sway bar to the body), but not (not even sure if the PAC has them) the links/rods?

    I haven't had the PAC up in the air yet, but will definitely check out your 2 suggested culprits.
  • Check your motor mounts! I just replaced them at 78,000 miles...for the second time.
  • The front end shop replaced the sway bar links the first time I had it in. It might have made a little improvement, but maybe I wanted to believe there was an improvement to justify the money I spent! Either way, the problem continued to get worse until I drove it up on the ramps and checked the cushions. For me, the big problem was the cushions (bushings), but it seems that there must be a plethora (thank you 3 Amigos) of potential causes. If you get under the car to check things, I'd definitely check the links. By the way, the method I used to prove to myself that the cushions were bad was to pry the sway bar up and down and sideways near the cushions with a wonder bar. The sway bar moved so far that there was no doubt.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    edited August 2011
    Heeeyyy Brooks (Steelydan), I can't believe you are still here, after all these years !

    I didn't click on this discussion group since 2008, when I got rid of our Crapacifica. You might remember that we agressively defended it for countless posts, against lots of people !

    Well ... I lost it when the transmission blew in pieces when climbing on our driveway (fixed under warranty). Fortunately I found a dealer who was selling both new Chryslers and new Hondas (on two different locations), so I got a decent trade-in value for that ****, so I got a new 2008 Honda Pilot instead.

    Congratulations for defending it for so long. Chrysler (well ... what's left of it) owes you a lot !

  • Well, steelydan. As the saying goes: opinions are like [non-permissible content removed]: everyone has (is entitled) to one. I wonder what you say to those working on projects with cars from the 60s ("guys, those cars have been DEAD for 50 years").
    Regarding 'better vehicles out there': yes, i mentioned one (Mercedes R class). But then it gets thin (if the vehicle we talking must
    - drive decent (handling, power, speed)
    - carry a minimum of 6 people in comfort
    - accept lots and bulky stuff in moments notice
    - look decent

    You must admit the air gets thin up there. The only one that comes to mind and (at one point, now 'long dead') is the Mercedes R63 (I still keep my eyes peeled on the online used car sites for rare one at an acceptable price).

    If we add:
    - affordable
    - >400 hp
    - <6 sec 0-60
    you are out of luck

    That leaves minivans (which I in deed looked into; check some of the Autobahnstormer VW T2 buses, Mercedes Vito etc. put together by top of the line tuners in Europe), but I liked the looks better.
  • I just purchased a 2005 Pacifica about 2 weeks ago. The previous owner had all four brakes replaced with new rotors and I believe the tie rods. It stills has a rattle when going over small bumps (of coarse large bumps too). Looks like I should of done my research first. I just sent an email to Chrysler about 5 minutes ago requesting information on this 10yr/150,000 warranty. Earlier today I called two Chrysler dealerships about the front end problems and the warranty. Neither were sure about the warranty and both wanted around $50.00 to check out the front end. Anyone that received a letter from Chrysler, please post a general overall view of what the letter said and what is covered by that warranty. Thanks.
  • An update on my email to Chrysler on the 10yr/150,000 Warranty. I was informed that my vehicle was not in any recall or letter to owners with front end problems. So basically, Sorry for your luck and thanks for buying Chrysler. I guess my next step is to take it to a dealer and see what happens.

    I am glad that I found this community, you all have helped me.

    After I go to the dealership and get their findings, I am going to submit a report to NTSHA about my problems and what Chrysler said and the dealership. Hope this helps to get Chrysler to MAN up to their responsibility to their customers.

    Best of Luck to you all and HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    It's the engine cradle rusting out . Nothing else is covered under the 10 year 150,000 mile warranty
  • I'm glad to hear Chrysler is taking care of the rusted cradle issue on the PAC (Piece A Chit). Makes me wonder if I'm entitled to a refund for all the money I spent on our 04 because of this problem.
    If anyone has a letter about the new extended warranty please post it.
  • I have not checked the cradle for rust yet. Thanks for the info. Sounds like all the problems PAC is having with the engine mounts and other bushings failing as soon as they do, Chrysler should do something about that also. Just my thought. Thanks again.
  • dwatdwat Posts: 2
    Replace lower control arm for that side. The original design is poor and the bushings wear out. Chryler put out a news bulletin to replace both lower control arms with their new part numbers. I think they redesigned the parts but did not recall and replace. The original part was $125 and the new part is $412 and they recommend to replace both at the same time. I found one of the original ones on Ebay for $125 inleu of buying Chrylers $412.
  • dwatdwat Posts: 2
    Replace the lower control arm on the side that is making the thumbing sound. Chryler put out a news bulletin to replace the right and left lower contol arm if there was a thumbing sound caused when braking and driving at 16mph. I think they redesigned them because of all the complaints that the bushing were wearing out to quickly. But they did not do a recall and stuck the owner with the high cost. The orignal part was $125 and Chryler's new part is $412 and they recommend you replace both. I was able to find the orignal lower control arm on E-bay for $125.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Houston Posts: 134
    Happy New Year, rodut !

    So how are things up there in Canada ??? The cold probably got your transmission !!! We love to travel in Canada.....always beautiful and so clean............

    Yes , I still defend my Pacifica , although I have fallen victim to the low speed "clunk" syndrome that graces these posts regularly........Actually, my '04 Pac still looks good and the engine/tranny/brakes are really reliable...........I am still on my original rear pads at 97,000 miles !!!

    The Pac is not worth much as a trade in, so I drive on until something disastrous happens, so far , so good as I approach the 100K mark.........

    Yes, rodut, we could really pontificate back in the Pac's prime days.........Thanks for the memories , and best of luck in that beautiful country to the North..............
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Happy New Year Steelydan !

    We didn't chat since about 3 years ago ! We couldn't forget each other because we were alone bravely fighting for the Pacifica ! Lots of posts really ...

    Yes, you are right, a transition from ice to clean concrete, while my wife was trying to climb on our clean driveway (from the icy road), blew both axles at the same time. Probably not the car's fault ... fortunately it was still in warranty, so Chrysler replaced the axles.

    Truth is ... I still look after Pacificas when I see them on the road. The damn beasts look beautiful !

    IMPORTANT for your safety: YEARLY CHECK if your front wheels have a play in them (caused by bad ball joints). The front end clunking, which comes standard on Pacificas, mask the clunking potentially caused by bad ball joints. I am sure you know that bad ball joints could cause the wheel to fall off, so it's lethal danger ! Check the front end YEARLY ! It's low price, because all they have to do is to lift the car, and manually push-pull the front wheels to see if they are loose or not.

    Having a bad ball joint at 40,000 Kms (25,000 miles) triggered my decision to get rid of the car. Not the blown axles.
  • Hello everyone,
    My wife and I bought our 05 pacifica 2 days before the birth of our first child. She had a Liberty and when O placed the infant seat in it, and it was against the door, I knew a bigger, stronger, safer car was needed.

    My father owns a garage, 25 years, and I have been a co-owner for 19 years. We have worked on just about every type of vehicle and the Pacifica was an easy decision.

    Purchased 3 years ago w/ 38,000 miles, it has been maintenance free (except tires and oil). Until last month...

    We have never had the CLUNK issue as described in many of these posts, but it started in December. My wife never mentioned it until I was driving it and noticed it. She said "oh that?"...

    I put it up on the lift and the first thing I see, the beginning of the subframe rot that has been mentioned.... But more on that later...

    Doing the NORMAL suspension checks, NOTHING stood out (and I am good at finding things). I did find a bad rear motor mount (leaking fluid) and it was in the area of the clunk sound. Hmmmm, could be... After changing that and driving it, No... But the mount needed to be replaced anyway. BUT, in the course of changing the mount, I had to loosen the subframe bolts to lower the cradle a few inches. Well, the upper mounts (isolater bushing) are large rubber donuts with a metal washer attached to the top. EVERY SINGLE ONE was rotted and brittle. Hmmmm, closer? Ordered new mounts (tops and bottoms) and replaced them. The ride was instantly and noticeably BETTER (didn't know it was bad until now), but the clunk was still there. Now to the internet for ideas, which brought me here...

    After reading ALL the posts, I was more frustrated but armed with the possibility of getting the $1300 subframe (my cost) replaced by Chrysler and not my pocket. I called the local Chrysler dealer and they said that MY vehicle was not covered but to call Chrysler and report it. I did and spoke with a case manager who spoke with the dealer and scheduled an appointment to evaluate the subframe. 30 minutes at the dealership and Chrysler has agreed to replace it this Tuesday 1/25/11....

    But the clunk is still there and aggravating me, so I put it back on the lift and revisited everything. The NORMAL checks I described earlier, had me pry, twist and bang on the sway bar. I disconnected the sway bar links and checked them and they were fine.... WHAT AM I MISSING!?

    I decided to tie the links up and leave the sway bar unhooked for a short test. NO NOISE, NO BANG, NOTHING.... Back on the lift, checked the sway bar bushings again and still they look good. No abnormal movement or wear visible.... KEY WORD IS VISIBLE!

    4 bolts to remove the sway bar bushings and pull them from the bar. They still look good, feel good, no wear.... UNTIL I put them back on the swaybar. They obbled. THEY WOBBLE! They were eggshaped from side to side instead of up and down. I have never seen that. $6 each and the noise is GONE!

    The car rides better that ever and goes in for the frame this week. $300 and a few hours of my time and the car is as good as new.

    So if you have the clunk/bang, when your mechanic checks your car again, ask them to remove and check the 2 rear cradle top mounts (or isolators) for the rot, disconnect the swaybar and remove/check the bushings (they are $6 each), and also the control arms (they are easy to detect bad ones but about $400 each).

    My wife loves her Pacifica and we are expecting our second child in May. This Pacifica is ready for the new arrival...
  • I know it has been awhile but it is hard to find info regarding this issue. I am about to order the lower control arms myself. Did that resolve your popping noise? thanks.
  • No, no one could really tell me what the popping noise was.
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Houston Posts: 134

    my mechanic replaced lower control arms, tie rod ends, new front struts, and generally "tightened" up the front end the best he could.

    Also a new 4 wheel alignment after the above repairs.......

    my clunk is lessened, but still there. I am at 96,000 miles now, so I will drive to about 120,000 and then just replace the vehicle. It is better than it was, and I think it is related to all of the bushings ( which are not replaceable) that these front suspension pieces use............maybe the later years improved on this, but my early 2004 , not quite there on this issue.

    I will chalk this up to just a bad front end design.....

    I will also say that the "popping " sound you describe can be related to the CV joints and "half shafts" in the front drive system itself. I hear a "pop" sound myself when I shift from R to D after backing out of my driveway.....Sometimes it is louder than others, sometimes not at all.

    The car does drive perfectly normally at all times, and I don't notice any braking issues, etc.

    I have learned to live with this......I have spent all of the time and money I will ever spend on this front end..........It is what it is for my 2004 Pacifica...I will not buy a brand new design in the first year of production again, domestic or foreign.......

    The Pacifica has not been a disaster, but it could have been better.......
  • Did you ever find the problem or get it fixed? I have the same problem on mine.
  • Had to replace cv shafts on both sides to resolve turning popping. Clunking when shifting r to d was engine mounts. Had to replace those 2x now & I'm at 128k
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Houston Posts: 134

    You are right about the engine mounts. I had them replaced also at about 89,000 miles.......I believe the mechanic said 2 out of 3 were cracked, one was bad. I agree they are responsible for the "clunk or pop" from R to D.

    I have ALWAYS come to a complete stop going from R to D, so the only thing I ever heard with the old mounts was a little, sharp "pop" sound, but not always.

    My CV joints ( knock on wood) are still OK at 97,000plus miles.

    davesgirl93, have you ever replaced the timing belt on the 3.5L ? I noticed you were at 127K, I'm at 97K. The owner's manual says replace at 102K.

    I am going to replace it , and drive on to about 125K, then take inventory........

    I'm guessing that is a $750 job, including the water pump replacement.......any feedback on that figure would be welcome.......


    Brooks Davis
  • No, I have not donned the belt. I really should, one day its Donna leave me stranded! I still have a shifting Clunking between 2nd and 3rd gears. It was fixed one time, but OT was not what I took the car in for, so I don't know what they did to fix it! I do know that the Clunking went away for about 20k miles. Tells me its some sort of chassis or frame bolts that must rattle loose?
  • steelydanfansteelydanfan Houston Posts: 134
    edited February 2011

    I know what you mean by clunking "going away" for awhile.....My mechanic , who is a reputable guy that makes his living by repairing cars, says he "tightens" things up when I am in for an oil change, etc, and it seems to be "tighter" when I leave.........but he makes it clear that he's not giving me any guarantees.....

    Bottom line: Clunking has many sources in the Pacifica.............None fatal, but a Clunk is a Clunk , of course, of course..........( Sorry , Mr. Ed ) younger Pacifica drivers won't get that, but some of us AARP drivers will...................... :)
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    As for the tranny clunk there seems to be even more TSB's that might clear that up. I had our torque converter replaced again at 82,000 miles under the lifetime power train warranty. Now I have 92,400 miles and has not given any trouble again.

    It takes 1 mile of rough gravel road and a really steep hill to get to our house. The PAC does better than any of the three Jeep Liberty"s we owned. So I am pretty pleased with it. I expect some rattles and even a clunk or two. Yes us AARP folks seem to take some clunks or bumps along life's fast lane. The end of the road is closer than you think when even the AARP magizine is not worth reading.
  • After starting to work on my wife's 2006 Pacifica. I decided to start doing some research here. Thanks for everyone's posts here, great info.

    We bought it used with 28k and it has been pretty maint. free until now (50k). I was replacing one of the rear shocks (wow these are expensive) and when I tried to lower the rear subframe (one side at a time), the front bolt would not come loose. When it finally did it spun the aluminum inner sleeve of the bushing out. Basically, the aluminum had corroded and seized with the bolt. Went to do the other side, same deal. The rear bushings were fine, but they are a different design. Needless to say, I'm not too happy with this. Now I have to take the whole subframe out and have new bushings pressed in the front two mounts.

    Wondering if anyone here has experienced or had a problem with these? I looked for any tsb regarding these but couldn't find any. Wondering if I should report to Chrysler and see if they will do anything for me?

    I also wanted to ask if the motor mount problem occurs on 2006's? Most of the posts I see here are for MY's 2004-05? My front cradle isn't rusted too bad, but there is rust visible around 2 of the motor mounts. The rear/middle motor mount does look like it should be replace, although I'm not noticing any clunks and whatnot.
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    The rear shocks are self leveling why did it need replacement? The rust on the cradle is normally in the middle back
  • When I put it up for oil change/normal inspection, the right rear shock had fluid leaking out.
  • jaylepjaylep Posts: 1
    Have followed this forum for some time as I purchased an 04 Pacifica and had the infamous Chrysler clunk in the front. my problem ended up being the sway bar bushings. Even if these look okay, get them changed. I changed my sway bar links first and still had the clunk but the bushings took car of it. It's a cheap fix if you do it yourself.

    With regards to the engine cradle, I have the popping sound shifting from D to R and vice versa. I have been told I have some broken engine mounts and I know these can't be real easy to change and very costly. I have 114,000 on my Pacifica and the engine cradle rust is something I want to look into. If I'm laying underneath my car, where do I want to look? Is it a subframe above the actual vehicle frame?
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 210
    The whole frame you see in the front is it. It's like a turtles back with a hole for the engine oil pan. The rust is usually just behind the oil pan on the left or right side.
  • chausnerchausner Posts: 1
    After having several shops and the dealer checking for the CLUNK issue on our 2004 Pacifica, I read this forum and decided to replace the drivers side lower control arm.
    As I was installing the new one, I noticed the front control arm frame hole was slightly egg shaped (Just enough to move side to side).
    With the bolts slightly loose, I pulled back and forth on the control arm......I heard the famous CLUNK.
    The old control arm and bushings were in great shape, so I know it wasn't the problem.
    **Try tightening the drivers side front control arm bolt as tight as possible, as a start. **
    I don't know if it was a hole drilling screw up when the frame was drilled at the factory, or a wear issue.
    That's what fixed mine.
    Good luck
  • vtraudtvtraudt Posts: 52
    Has someone with a newer model (2007 and up) found similar 'clonk' issue, front suspension issues?
    All posts I found so far seem to be on 2006 and older models?
    Did they 'fix' the issue on the newer ones?
    I have a 2007 with 68k miles, and start to notice 'mild' form (but could be normal wear in the suspension components) in the front.
  • vtraudtvtraudt Posts: 52
    Can you be more specific which hole was deformed?
    I would venture a guess it is wear, not 'mis drilled' (which doesn't happen anymore with today's numerically controlled machines).
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Yes!!!! This was been an issue.Our 07 has had the Sway Bar Links replaced twice. If you go on some rough roads on a regular basis that does it. I have no complaint as we go in and out on one mile of very rough gravel, dirt and holes, to get to our home. However I must tell ya our three Jeep Liberty's did far worst, and needed more upkeep. The PAC AWD is fantastic as far as we are concerned. We now have just a few miles short of 95,000 miles. Hope this helps.
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