Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems
2002 T/C Limited- Passenger side power sliding door works intermittently - works during warm weather, not when cold. If you open it manually, feels very heavy. Seems like I need to lubricate something somewhere. Driver side power door works, but also feels heavy when you open/close it manually. Anybody had this problem? Thanks
I have posted a couple of times with this issue. I have a 2002 T&C EX. I have the same exact issue. Only problem, it gets worse. Mine started off like yours. On a cold morning it would pop open about a half inch and stop. Now it happens all the time regardless of temperature. I replaced the battery, thinking that was the issue. The battery did not solve the problem.
I took it to the dealer. They told me the clutches were not properly releasing. That is why it was hard to open manually. They also said the control cable was "binding".
The dealer gave me an estimate of 600 dollars. About 300 for parts the rest for labor. I am going to have to live with it for now.
my wife will have to live with this problem for now, till i find another nice saturday afternoon to tinker around.
Really? I didn't know that. Were they a "factory item" as part of a towing package or were they included on every van?
With the above in mind, I wonder if the reason why the tranny in our 1998 has lasted so well is that it's spent most of its life either in the NYC area or in New England, and as such hasn't gotten all that hot. I mean after all, during my regular back and forth commuting last summer I can only think of a handfull of days where I needed to use the A/C. Hmmmm.
after wrecking our first T&C LX in a 7 car pile up and with no injuries we decided um....well get another...we tried every tactic possible when we found the 03 LXi and they finally gave in and we got the price from 21k to just over 19k (thank-you thank-you...lol)
We have not had one problem since but recently have run into our first mishap and have no idea what to do...
We are in Keywest Florida and have limited times to get to the dealership...and so i thought this would be the best way to see whats up with it..
The left side backdoor which is power was cracking open but then stopping instead of opening all the way....today about a month after this started it is opening all the way....but not closing and stopping right before it moves back in towards the van to close and click shut...
Can anyone give me some insight, a quick fix, anything as i have no time to get to the service department and dont feeling like losing an arm and a leg over this problem...
also my other problem is when it rains my accelerator foot and the passengers left foot get wet after a rain? has htis happened to anyone here.....the carpet get soaked back where the carpet meets the back on the center console..
thanks very much for your time....sry i didnt get to the point right away lol....any help is appreciated..
apart from that has been a great car! suprisingly powerful and good on gas...about 20.5-21 mpg here lately..which is nice when gas is 3.30 a gallon here
As far as your water on the floor is concerned, here is a message 97xpresso posted on Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions forum:
"I had this problem with my 2001. The front passenger carpet would get soaked from highway speeds pushing water back into drain tube, thru the firewall onto the carpet. Part # 56000724AB is a hose which curves downward that slips over existing drainpipe. About $7.00. Make sure that the hose is slipped on all the way to firewall to insure bottom notch in pipe is covered. On very hot humid days I still get a drips of condensation from the evaporator housing, but nothing compared to the thouroghly soaked carpet of before."
Give it a try.
This happened about the same time one of the headlights burned out. The minivan was also recently vacuumed, and also our two kids have played in it about the same day, but I don't see any loose wires.
I checked the power door fuse and it was OK. I also disconnected and reconneted the negative battery terminal, but nothing changed. Did anybody have a similar problem?
This was the exact problem. We had the kids playing in the minivan too. And that button is not very obvious.
Unlike the first electric sliding doors (for example on my 1994 Olds Silhouette) the drive is disengaged when the door is operated by hand, making it very easy (just like a mechanical door).
But the Chrysler smarties ten years later couldn't just copy what works well!
Both doors worked very well, although they were hard to open and close manually, at least for me. A friend tried to open the door manually one day from the outside and I don't know if she was too hard on it or what, but after that the door only opens about 8 inches and at that point also the warning lights stop working.
After that if you push it manually for about 4 inches, the warning lights start working again and if you push any of the buttons it will open completely. When I try to close it, it closes up to the same point that gives me trouble when opening up, then everything stops working and I have to push it manually to close it completely and then it latches and the warning lights work again...
Anybody has any idea if this is something we could fix easily?? It is as if the electronic part that makes the door move doesn't work in that spot... :confuse:
And, yes it is hard to manually shut the doors.
On another not if anyone can answer this for me please, dealer says car backfires really badly, but to me it is fine as I listen by ear. I have 71k miles on it, some places tell me plugs are not due for changing until 90k miles and my dealer tells me it should have been changed at 60k miles.
Thanks for all the help
I wish we could get a definite answer though from someone this this issue. Someone has to know, sounds pretty common.
The TSB no. is 23-004-03.
I have been to Chrysler dealer and engineer says it is a faulty mechanism. Since it works in warm weather, it is not worth spending $300 on in my opinion. Talking about TSB's does anyone know if this is related to any of the other problem discussed here.
Anyway, driver side slider. Today it opened and now won't
"latch". The van thinks it's closed since I'm not getting a 'door open' message.
It will only open (electronically) a few inches, then stop. hit the button again, it moves a few more inches. hit the button again, etc.
Closing, it moves the whole way, but when it gets to the stop, it 'hits' and doesn't totaly latch/close.
I can move the door manually, but still it 'hits' and won't latch/close.
Any ideas? where do I start!!
from chrysler...and it works great in all weather now...
I inadvertenly hit the sliding door button when I was aiming to close the garage door and the door opened. (gasp) but it also closed and latched. I haven't tried it again for fear it will stick open again!
Is this covered by a TSB? Is there some basic maintenance that will help this problem? Any ideas?
Although our hatch has never opened or closed properly our sliding door has always worked--until now">!
Drivers side is itermittent. Passenger side shows no signs of life at all.
When opening and closing manually, the driver side is much harder to move than the passenger side.
The dealer wants $100 just to look at it. Last time I took it to the dealer they charged me $900 to reprogram the transmission CPU.
I hate the dealer.... :mad: I'd like to fix it my self.
How can I tell which parts I need for each door? :confuse:
both my windows which are barely ever used. Chrysler should
issue a recall since this is a severe and pervasive defect.
Aside from the extrmely soft brushes in the motor (which
you have to be careful of when working on the motor)
the the problem is primarily with the bi-metalic overcurrent
limiter inside the motor. Take this "fuse" out, and get
a replacement and lube all parts in the window mechanism
to limit stress on the motor. A really, really hard crank in a vice while heating with a blow torch will take care of
the bi-metalic switch, but I don't necessarily recommend
defeating the switch in this manner, since it really does
serve a purpose.
Cause: There is an overcurrent limiter "fuse" inside the
window motor which goes out of range, getting too sensitive,
combined with increased demand from aging window hardware.
Chrysler, issue a recall! This is a severe and consistent
design defect which represents a potential safety hazard
in situations where windows have to be opened or closed.
The overcurrent protector is flawed and the motor brushes
are too soft, nearly guaranteeing a window system failure
even under extremely light use.
The solution is replace the bad "fuse" and to lube the
window hardware to decrease drag on the motor, and to
replace the bogus motor brushes if they're too worn. A lot
of people would have you purchase a completely new window
hardware (regulator) system, but this is completely unnecessary.
The fuse can be accessed by:
1. First remove door cover (this is hard since door covers
use cheap snap-mechanisms to attach which can break).
2. Remove inner door guard to provide access to motor
3. Loosen the 3 torque bolts holding motor to door enough
to get access to screws holding motor cover.
4. Remove the 2 screws holding motor cover, and remove
5. Remove armature taking care not to damage brushes.
6. Fuse plugs in to motor top just above the brushes.
Remove fuse and replace. (I crimped mine by clamping
really, really hard in a vice, but I DON'T recommend
this since the fuse serves a purpose.)
Also, CAREFULLY notching out a groove in the brushes and laying the braided wire into this grove will allow the
brushes to travel a little further, extending the life
of the motor slightly beyond the normal 3-4 years of light use.