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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems



  • My power locks have gone out both with the inside switch and the remote key. I looked through the owner's manual and the fuse box and do not see anything that says "power locks" Any idea if it could be coded as something different?
  • Dealership says there is a "bulletin" on the computer that says that this needs to be brought in and reset the body computer
  • I just purchased a 2002 Chrysler Town & Country that needed a new battery, after replacing the battery the key alarm that locks/unlocks, sliding left and right and back doors will not work any more. Does anyone know that programming codes to reconfigure the key to the van...?

    Thanks for all the help
  • Did anyone find the fix other than the dealer replacing the door latch for about $300? I have the exact same problem with my right side power sliding door and the liftgate.
  • I have a 2002 T&C Lxi and my driver side sliding door and liftgate do the same. It "pops" open but will not slide open. If the sliding door fails so will the liftgate. If the door opens automatically then the liftgate will open automatically. I think the fix is in that latch. There is a site that shows how to fix it yourself if you buy the latch. here is the site , link title

    I wish we could get a definite answer though from someone this this issue. Someone has to know, sounds pretty common.
  • I also have this problem. There is a TSB which addresses these exact symptoms which only involves reprogramming the "obstacle detection" sensitivity. I am going to try this first as my dealer says it should be less than $100 to do. I'll let you know if it works.

    The TSB no. is 23-004-03.
  • I have an 01 T&C as well and my right side power sliding doors does not open or close in close weather. Being here in Florida as soon as the weather warms up, it works fine.
    I have been to Chrysler dealer and engineer says it is a faulty mechanism. Since it works in warm weather, it is not worth spending $300 on in my opinion. Talking about TSB's does anyone know if this is related to any of the other problem discussed here.
  • I experienced something new with my van. I've read through the posts and none are exactly like this (although I've got a door that doesn't always work too).

    Anyway, driver side slider. Today it opened and now won't
    "latch". The van thinks it's closed since I'm not getting a 'door open' message.

    It will only open (electronically) a few inches, then stop. hit the button again, it moves a few more inches. hit the button again, etc.

    Closing, it moves the whole way, but when it gets to the stop, it 'hits' and doesn't totaly latch/close.

    I can move the door manually, but still it 'hits' and won't latch/close.

    Any ideas? where do I start!!
  • Wow if you can get it fixed for are doing good I paid $1200. to get passenger slider and rear lift gate fixed
    from chrysler...and it works great in all weather now...
  • My driver's door power window isn't working. Is there any way that I can bypass the switch so I can get it to go up? Also, where is the fuse located? My manual says that the self-resetting fuse can only be serviced by a dealer.
  • That's almost exactly what happened to me a couple weeks ago. The door opened fine, then it wouldn't close electronically and it would close manually but wouldn't latch and there was no message that the door was open. I had to drive anyway and I thought it wouldn't open but the door opened up on its own when I was going about 40 mph. I had to stop in the middle of the road because my baby was inside the car and a guy came over to help me try and close it. He got it to close and told me that whenever that happened I should push down what he called "the arm" and he pointed to the black device that makes the door move along the rail to open or close the door. The whole piece that is on the lower part of the door. Since we were in the middle of the street I didn’t have a chance to really take a look at the specific part that he meant, plus he told me once the door was closed. Now that I have looked at it, I haven’t been able to find anything on that device that you can actually pull up and push down, but maybe you can check it up and figure it out. After that I haven’t had any problems with the doors even in the Minnesota extremely cold weather we had about a week ago (-35 oF). I hope that helps
  • flagalflagal Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip! I'll check that option out next time. My BIL took the door panel off, took the latch out, fiddle with it (I've no clue what he did to get it to release!), put it all back together, and got the door to latch.

    I inadvertenly hit the sliding door button when I was aiming to close the garage door and the door opened. (gasp) but it also closed and latched. I haven't tried it again for fear it will stick open again!
  • lance76lance76 Posts: 1
    I havea dodge 2005 grand caravan sxt. Bought it used in Jan 2007 with 26000 miles and discovered water leaking from the "A" post grab handle on the pass. side. Have taken in twice to dodge dealer and they resealed the windshield and replaced the roof trim and made sure the drains for the sunroof were clear. Any ideas? The dealer stated that they could not find where it was leaking from and had initally said it was definitely not the windshield but when I picked it up they said that that's what is was
  • kcrossleykcrossley Posts: 181
    I'm having the same problem with my 2001 T&C EX. A few weeks ago the driver's door power window started acting funny and getting stuck in either the up or down position. It wasn't a jam, but seemed more like a switch problem. Now the driver's door window is stuck in the up position and won't come down. When I engage the switch I can hear a click, but nothing happens. Any ideas?
  • dadto3dadto3 Posts: 17
    Is there any maintenance that should be performed on the chain device that opens/closes the power sliding doors? I have a 2005 T&C and there is a "gritty" sound when the doors open and close. Should that be lubed or cleaned somehow?
  • lyllyl Posts: 1
    Our power door no longer opens--when I press the overhead driver button or the passenger button, the door will unlatch but then not open. Same goes when the door is open--if we press the button the door will close but then stop about an inch from latching?

    Is this covered by a TSB? Is there some basic maintenance that will help this problem? Any ideas?

    Although our hatch has never opened or closed properly our sliding door has always worked--until now">!
  • My '01 T&C Limitted has issues w/ bothe sliding doors.

    Drivers side is itermittent. Passenger side shows no signs of life at all.

    When opening and closing manually, the driver side is much harder to move than the passenger side.

    The dealer wants $100 just to look at it. Last time I took it to the dealer they charged me $900 to reprogram the transmission CPU.

    I hate the dealer.... :mad: I'd like to fix it my self.

    How can I tell which parts I need for each door? :confuse:
  • jmoose3jmoose3 Posts: 2
    This problem seems to happen consistently. It happened to
    both my windows which are barely ever used. Chrysler should
    issue a recall since this is a severe and pervasive defect.

    Aside from the extrmely soft brushes in the motor (which
    you have to be careful of when working on the motor)
    the the problem is primarily with the bi-metalic overcurrent
    limiter inside the motor. Take this "fuse" out, and get
    a replacement and lube all parts in the window mechanism
    to limit stress on the motor. A really, really hard crank in a vice while heating with a blow torch will take care of
    the bi-metalic switch, but I don't necessarily recommend
    defeating the switch in this manner, since it really does
    serve a purpose.

    -The Moose
  • jmoose3jmoose3 Posts: 2
    Probelm: chrysler town and country minivan power windows
    are intermittent.

    Cause: There is an overcurrent limiter "fuse" inside the
    window motor which goes out of range, getting too sensitive,
    combined with increased demand from aging window hardware.

    Chrysler, issue a recall! This is a severe and consistent
    design defect which represents a potential safety hazard
    in situations where windows have to be opened or closed.

    The overcurrent protector is flawed and the motor brushes
    are too soft, nearly guaranteeing a window system failure
    even under extremely light use.

    The solution is replace the bad "fuse" and to lube the
    window hardware to decrease drag on the motor, and to
    replace the bogus motor brushes if they're too worn. A lot
    of people would have you purchase a completely new window
    hardware (regulator) system, but this is completely unnecessary.

    The fuse can be accessed by:
    1. First remove door cover (this is hard since door covers
    use cheap snap-mechanisms to attach which can break).
    2. Remove inner door guard to provide access to motor
    3. Loosen the 3 torque bolts holding motor to door enough
    to get access to screws holding motor cover.
    4. Remove the 2 screws holding motor cover, and remove
    5. Remove armature taking care not to damage brushes.
    6. Fuse plugs in to motor top just above the brushes.
    Remove fuse and replace. (I crimped mine by clamping
    really, really hard in a vice, but I DON'T recommend
    this since the fuse serves a purpose.)

    Also, CAREFULLY notching out a groove in the brushes and laying the braided wire into this grove will allow the
    brushes to travel a little further, extending the life
    of the motor slightly beyond the normal 3-4 years of light use.
  • I bought a '93 Voyager @65K miles, and used it *hard* for 5 years. I had a heavy duty hitch and towed a 2 ton trailer more than 20 times from Nashville to Knoxville, TN at 75 to 85 mph with no significant problems (one trip in 100 degree weather with constant A/C use, the trans overheated, and I changed the oil and kept driving). I killed the trans on a farm using the van to haul a manure spreader with a 2 ton load. The spreader has a cam on the drive wheel to work the unload chains, and this cam jerks the hitch back and forth constantly. Not thinking too clearly, I beat the trans to death with this fore and aft jerking. I had the trans rebuilt. THIS IS A MISTAKE! The housing journals were toasted, and the rebuilt trans died very shortly. I got a Jasper rebuilt trans ($2000 installed) which lasted until I sold the van with 230K miles. Good, hard-working van.

    I bought a T&C 2 years ago with 170K miles from a friend. I put about 30K miles on it with no problems.
    Last month I was rear ended by a GMC 1T pickup doing 60mph to my 15mph. Van is totaled. PROBLEM: The driver seat back collapsed with the rear impact. Since I had no support, I was yanked backward enough that my weight bent the upper part of the steering wheel about 6 inches backward. The impact over-extended my elbows, sprained my wrists and shoulders, and exacerbated the arthritis pain in my neck and lower back (I am 70 years old, but in good shape). Question: Is there a history of broken driver seat backs in Chrysler products? Good van to the end, but that seat problem is causing a lot of grief.
  • avgoustiavgousti Posts: 3
    Any idea where to get replacement fuses? Or do you know the rating of these fuses? Mine have the number 104M on the part. Searched on the net but no luck yet.

  • I have a 2005 stow n go dodge caravan that is having lock issues. My front 2 doors (driver-passanger) doors and the 2 sliding doors are not locking with the powerlock switch. Ever other power electronic is working in my car except these 4 doors. The locks won't even work with the car control lock on the key chain. Does anyone know what is could be or where i need to look to make it work. I have checked all my fuses and they all look good and pushed in tight but i can't figure it out thanks :cry:
  • ave you tried to go to a kragen aoto store. i got alot of my fuses from there and it was about 5 dollors and up
  • I have a 1997 T&C, and the rear lift gate lock appears to be jammed. When I hit the automatic unlock button or remote, you can hear the mechanism trying, but it will not unlock. The key will not turn in the lock either...I have tried doing both together, but still no luck.
    Tonight I tried to get the panels off the inside of the rear lift gate, but was not able to get down to the lock to take a closer look....">link title
    Any suggestions?????????? <a href="
  • I have a 2005 stow n go dodge caravan that is having lock issues. My front 2 doors (driver-passanger) doors and the 2 sliding doors are not locking with the powerlock switch. Ever other power electronic is working in my car except these 4 doors. The locks won't even work with the car control lock on the key chain. Does anyone know what is could be or where i need to look to make it work. I have checked all my fuses and they all look good and pushed in tight but i can't figure it out thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,158
    My '98 GC has a similar problem. I find that if I just try to lift the latch, it will never open and feels like it is locked, though it has more resistance than when it is truly locked. The electric system unlocks it occasionally, but usually I must use the key (and it does not feel like it unlocks, but does). I have to press firmly on the gate while lifting on the handle in order for it to unlatch.

    I have a feeling that giving the mechanism a good spraying with lithium grease would help tremendously, but I have not taken this step yet, nor have I taken apart the paneling to do so.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ezjimezjim Posts: 9
    I was having the same problem with my 2005 Chrysler town & Country LX. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they reset it using the computer.
  • how much did they charge you for it? what was the exact problem?
  • i just had the same problem and when i took the vehicle to the dealer i was told there was a problem with the computer in the vehicle and they had to update the software so the locking system would work again. i asked the dealer if there is a problem with the cars computer and updated software was needed not sure why chrysler is not paying for the updates?? i am not sure i was being told the truth. it cost $100.00 to fix the problem. i also have a 2005 touring model. not sure if computer not working properly why then only the locks effected??i have had 2 recalls with this van for other issues and i wonder if this locking issuing will become a recall. this could be safety hazard in an accident where i cannot reach the side doors quickly enough to get my children out of the vehicle in the event of an accident.
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