Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems

improimpro Member Posts: 1
I hear clicking sounds behind the stearing weel ANd when I opened there is a clicking sound in the fuse box.
My internal ligths work.the radio the horn and the external light are not working.
I do not know what to do.....
My nidles on the metering are jumping like crazy........

Please help


  • sparkmanwrstsparkmanwrst Member Posts: 1

    The exact same thing happened to my wife's intrigue recently. I tried jumping it but it did not cause it to fire. However, i did notice that more dash lights worked when trying to jump it. I concluded there was probably a battery problem so I replaced the battery on the car. It didnt fire up after changing the battery either. What finally got it going again was to put the key in the ignition and turn it on and off quickly. After doing this repeatedly it turned on and has not given us any problems since. I am suspicious that there was a problem with the starter but when struck enough times it will work. Hope this helps
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I'd say you have a problem with the ignition module. They tend to go in these vehicles.
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    FWIW, my dad has always advised me to not attach heavy key rings to car keys... All I have dangling from keys is the key fob.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Good advice with this car. I had a situation over a year ago where whne I made left hand turns the car would shut off. It only happened 3 times and luckily I was able to steer off the road before someone rear ended me. i was able to shift inot neutral quickly and re-start the car. On the third occasion i drove to my mechanic (man, I miss him) and asked him for his advice. The first thing he asked was about my key chain and if I was accidently hitting it with my knee or hand as I made the turn. If that wasn't the case then he said it was either the ignition module going bad or another sensor in the wheel that tells the car to apply more gas to the engine as the steering wheel turns (someon help me out with this name). I took a bunch of junk off my key chain and moved my seat back and it hasn't happened since.

    While it is nice having the ignition on the dash instead of the column, it does make for other problems like this.
  • bellasmombellasmom Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1998 Intrigue that I'm still in love with but the brights come on when I first start my car when it is dark out or when the turn signal "pops" back into place. I took it to a Pontiac dealer but of course they said it was working correctly. Any ideas? Thanks
  • mick1mick1 Member Posts: 84
    Drive the car between sunrise and sunset and use the hand signals you learned in driver's ed. You'll never see the problem again. Really, sounds like an intermittent stalk switch short.
  • 99tcandalero99tcandalero Member Posts: 6
    The dreaded headlight flickering seems to be getting worse day by day. Searching the archives seems to point to two possible causes, bad grounding or a bad alternator. Since we have a 1999 with possibly the original alternator, I may quickly try adding a ground strap, and if that fails to make any difference, bite the bullet and replace the alternator.

    Forum wisdom seems to indicate P/N 10464395 should be superceeded by P/N 10464469
  • dgentsusadgentsusa Member Posts: 8
    I own a 99 Intrigue and some of my lights are not luminating. Only about 3 of the radio buttons come on. The shift lights dont go on. Now the Speedometer lights are not coming on but my rpms are. Very odd. Anyone know what the cause of the problem is. Also my Left Blinker is flashing very quick.

    Any suggestions help,

    Thank you
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The left blinker flashing quickly is the classic sign that your left turn signal is out. Very easy to replace the bulb. When you are replacing the bulb, do a quick check and see if the connector in the socket is OK. Many have reported (including myself) about a bad connector which causes the bulb to burn out prematurely. If you notice any "burn" marks on the connector, you'll need to replace it. Unfortunately, it is only sold through GM dealers or gmpartsdirect.com. Very easy to change the socket as well.
  • kfdmedkfdmed Member Posts: 130
    Its burnt out. The bulb that lights up the what gear the car is in. How do you get in there to replace?
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    Look it up in this forum. I posted instructions on how to do it before.

  • coltswincoltswin Member Posts: 17
    I searched before I posted but must not have put in the right words. Just did it again says to ... unscrew and replace the bulb. How to you get to the bulb?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Check out messages 10967 and 10968 on the main Intrigue forum. It's easy with these instructions. Should take you about 20 minutes to do. Good luck.
  • coltswincoltswin Member Posts: 17
    Car completely dead this morning. Drove 15 minutes to work turned off the ignition and tried to start immediately and its completely dead again. Is is correct to assume that this is not the battery and possibly the alternator? If its the alternator what is the replacement cost?
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Is is correct to assume that this is not the battery and possibly the alternator?

    No. Not really. You need to supply more info.

    The battery is only for starting the car. Once the car starts the alternator is your power source. Is your dash charge indicator lit. Also be aware that there is a fusible link in the red wire from the alt to the bat. I believe the wire goes to the power distribution box before it goe sto teh bat. The fusible link should be there at the box.

    1. Put a volt meter across the battery,
    Should read 12 volts.
    Lower than 9, probably will not engage the starter.

    Turn on headlights should not drop less than 2 volts

    2. Get the car started,(boost it) the voltmeter should read in excess of 13.5 volts. If so then the battery is being supplied a charge. Idiot light on dash sould be off.

    Turn on blower motor to high, voltage should drop and then recover back to the 13.5 volts or whatever you had before you you turned on blower.
    With blower on turn on headlights, should drop again and recover again.

    If so then alt is probably good.

    3. Drive the car for 10 min. Shut off everything and connect the volt meter, if it is not 12 volts then the battery is dead or not taking a charge .

    Turn on the headlight and read voltage, if it drops below 10 volts, same as above.

    4. Disconnect the neg post first and then the positive and clean up any corrosion, reconnect positive first and then negative.

    Be aware that gm has problems with the big red boot connector at the bat. sometimes it breaks internally.

    Repeat voltage readings.

  • focusfocus Member Posts: 225
    It might be the anti-theft safety chip was acting up.
    "it seems many GM car has an anti-theft system known as PassLock. It contains an anti-sensor in the ignition lock cylinder housing and a small magnet contained in the ignition lock cylinder.
    With the proper key in the ignition cylinder, the cylinder will rotate freely and will be "timed" as it rotates to the start position.
    the sensor relays a voltage signal to the BCM (body control module), which determines if the sensor signal is correct.
    If all requirements are met, a code is sent to the PCM (powertrain control module) to issue fuel injection pulses to the fuel injectors.
    This allows the auto to start and run.
    The malfunction could be caused by something as simple as the ignition cylinder not rotating freely to faults in the sensor, wiring or BCM."
  • andrew99andrew99 Member Posts: 2
    could this cause the daytime running lights not to come on when the key is turned they would come on before the car would start
  • bargainmechbargainmech Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know what solution you came up with for the dreaded headlight flickering problem. I have an olds intrigue in my shop but cannot make the headlights flicker. The owner says it happens al the time. I have driven the car and moved various wires and switches to try and cause the problem to no avail. Any input would be helpful.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I know one of the regular members posted a solution he used to fix the flickering lights problem. It involved the ground wire for the alternator and reconnecting it. I believe he posted it about year ago.

    It is definitely a problem with a number of Gm midsize vehcles. If you check out the GM minivan forum, it seems to be a problem even with the newer minivans.

    Check post 294 & 334 of this forum. they may be the most help to you.
  • cwatcwat Member Posts: 6
    my 02 Intrigue had the headlight flicker problem. A dealer cleaned the alternator ground point on the right fender and sealed the ground point to prevent further corrosion and it has worked for the past 4 months.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I have my Intrigue in for inspection on Monday. i'll ask the mechanic to do try that. When you say right fender, do you mean the passenger side?
  • cwatcwat Member Posts: 6
    Sorry for the delay but it is on the passenger fender.
  • jesses1jesses1 Member Posts: 9
    How do I access the tail light assembly to replace a burnt out brake light? There appears to be no access from the trunk, and no screws on the outside. How do I do this without breaking anything?
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    There appears to be no access from the trunk, and no screws on the outside. How do I do this without breaking anything?

    You need to unscrew the two black cargo net wingnut thingys.
    After this, reach in behind the trunkliner covering the lamp assembly, there is at least one more platic wing nut to spin off before the lamp falls out. Remember not to overtighten when putting back on.

  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    If you unscrew the top cargo net hook you can pull back the carpeting and underneath the carpeting you'll see the screw caps that will allow you to remove the tail lamp assembly. It's been a while since I've done it, but if I remember right it was pretty easy.
  • frammerframmer Member Posts: 4
    Hi there,

    I've been having some problems with my 99 Intrigue. It's got close to $200000 kms.

    First of all, my sunroof will not close properly. It will slide back and forth no problem, but when it is supposed to move up and down to tighten the seal, the sunroof refuses to move. Any ideas here?

    Secondly, while driving - or even at a light or stop sign, the car will stall out of nowhere for absolutely no reason.

    Third, my lights are supposed to turn on and off automatically, is this just a matter of replacing a fuse? This also seems to be affecting my fog lights which will not turn on at all.

    Fourth, anyone know how I can catch the little [non-permissible content removed] that threw a beer bottle through my driver side - rear window last night?


  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    1)Give it a little push as you push the button. had the same issue with my sunroof not moving back and forth. One hard push and it has been working for months.

    2) first guess, crankshaft sensor. Common issue

    3) Never heard of this. Check fuses.

    4) place a six pack of beer next to your car and when the bugger bends over to take one, shoot him with BB gun.
  • afelipeafelipe Member Posts: 1
    While I was driving to work tonight the light started to blink while I was at a stop light. It went off once I got on the freeway but started blinking again. Then while I was turning it went off for maybe a minute and came back on. :confuse: Once I got to work I turned the car off and on to see if it would restart. It did, but will it be okay for the drive home?
  • bayview6bayview6 Member Posts: 141
    Should be OK but you need to figure out what the problem is. What do your battery terminals look like?
  • heather_ebay06heather_ebay06 Member Posts: 3
    99 Intrigue,

    Hi again,

    My front turn signals only turn on and do not flash. The back ones do a quick flashing..and I have the annoying fast clicking sound when giving a signal.

    I took my car in to the shop and had the signals fixed three times. Each time I would get my car the signals would work properly for a few days then they revert back to the same problem. I wasted so many hours having my husband take me to the shop to drop the car off.

    Any ideas on this?
  • bayview6bayview6 Member Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem with my '99 Intrigue. The bulb in one of the front turn signals would fail and i would replace it and it would fail again in a few weeks. The problem is in the small bulb holder that detaches from the electric cable. I got a used one (and bulb) from a savage yard for $2 and haven't had any problems in 2 years. Also, the rubber caps that you take off to access the turn signal light bulbs have to be in place. If they fall off use duct tape to cover the hole.

    No need to have a mechanic do this job. The whole headlight assembly comes right out. Your husband or u should be able to do this repair.

    Look at the bad bulb, If it looks burned at its base then that is the problem. Another possibility is the turn signal flasher unit but I doubt it.
  • heather_ebay06heather_ebay06 Member Posts: 3
    Bayview, Thanks so much for this advice. I can't wait to (with my hubby & dad) do what you've said!!! These problems are so annoying and I really don't want to spend a lot at a shop to get no results.

    I can't wait!!
  • transmarobirdtransmarobird Member Posts: 1
    I just recently replaced the battery in my 2000 intrigue gl to possibly remedy a starter problem. the car starts fine in the morning but after driving it for 5 or ten miles or so, and stopping and trying to start again it takes a good 5 to 6 seconds on the starter before the car starts up again. problem two also only occures after i have been driving the car for a bit, i hear a noise under the car near the rear evertime it changes gears. like a "golf ball in a cardboard box" sound. any ideas???
  • yammaxim700yammaxim700 Member Posts: 19
    When you say it takes a good 5 to 6 seconds on the starter before it starts up again, do you mean it cranks for that long? If so, it could be your crankshaft position sensor. Mine started doing that last year - took many cranks before it would start. Replaced the sensor myself and it solved the problem.

  • janailjanail Member Posts: 5
    My 2000 Intrigue, 1st motor out at 89,000 and the 2nd motor with 120,000, has the SES light blinking. Not sure what the cause is. Performance is not like it was before. The car shakes in idle position and my 0 to 60 slags. Could the air filter or oil filter be replaced. I think i will go to AutoZone for a code check, hope not to serious.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If I remember right, the blinkng SES is a serious issue and should be checked out sooner rather than later.
  • janailjanail Member Posts: 5
    I changed the Evaporative Emmission Canister and the EGR valve and gasket. I put in a spark plug because I am getting code 301 cylinder 1 misfire. So we thought that it was just the spark plug. My next guess is the fuel injectors. According to Chilton's diagram injector 3 is located on cylinder 1. Is this correct? Any informationwould be greatly helped!!!

    200 Intrigue 3.5 Twin Cam 120,000 miles on odometer and on its second engine. The first change was at 89,000 miles but the second had only 38,000 when it was placed inside.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    NOt sure about the P0301 code and i am not a mechanic or handy with cars but I have read where a misfire could be the coil under the spark plug and not the spark plug itself. Since these are 100k mile spark plugs, I doubt they would fail at 38k. If they do, something is causing that failure.

    Also try doing a Google search on code P0301. there is tons of information on the internet diagnosing these codes.
  • jervickjervick Member Posts: 1
    I have the starter replaced twice within the last 90 days. It seems when i get in the car nothing everything comes on except the engine. Not the battery nor the alternater Is there something that would prohibit any juice from getting to the starter
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If the battery and alternator check out fine, I would look at the ignition module.
  • klyn1klyn1 Member Posts: 1
    Did the suggestion for the ignition module work? I am having the exact problem right now w/my 1998 intrigue. I just got my starter replaced a couple of months ago and I was sitting at a stop light in the turn lane & the car just went dead. My battery was still working but no clicking no anything when I tried to turn it over.
  • pinenutpinenut Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 intrigue would not start today (~68K miles). When I turned the key, I could hear the click noise but nothing else. I just checked the battery, it was 12V. Does this mean the starter is dead?
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    When I turned the key, I could hear the click noise but nothing else. I just checked the battery, it was 12V. Does this mean the starter is dead?

    First, you must measure the bat voltage while you turn the key.
    It must not go below 9 volts to engage the starter. Normally it will drop to about 10 volts. If it drops below 9 then the bat is toast or discharged.

    You must also determine if the click is from the starter relay (in the control box under the hood) or the starter solenoid(on the starter).

    As well, there is a crank fuse (40 amp)in the control box that allows 12 volts through the starter relay to the starter solenoid

    good luck
  • mike6453mike6453 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 Old Intrigue 3.8V6 194K. My last oil change was approx 1 mth ago and about two weeks my oil light has come on sometimes for 10 minutes then off for the day etc.. Now the light stays on all the time?

    I went back to the garage and no leaks and oil level is OK? They also pulled the codes and nothing? Could this be a sensor? Bad wire anyone else have the same issue? If a sensor were would it be located?

    Due you also know if I can diagram on the Net (Free) for this car?

    I'm trying to stay away of the $90/hr GM charge?
  • pinenutpinenut Member Posts: 2
    I did as you suggested and the voltage was only 8-9. So I had the battery changed and it is fine now. Thanks a bunch.
  • andejoshandejosh Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to this discussion, but it looks very helpful. Any info on either of my two issues below would be greatly appreciated.

    I have a '99 Intrigue with two issues:

    1. Busted Window Cable:
    I was having problems with the driver window switch and while attempting to toggle the window up and down, somehow the cable in the window motor got caught in the motor and busted. I'm looking for help on 3 things: Where does the cable connect to the window (diagram?); Where can I get a replacement cable; Any tips for re-wrapping the cable inside the motor?

    2. Occasional Starting Problems:

    Usually the car starts fine, but recently it dies out on me right after the initial ignition. I've noticed that it typically happens after I drive somewhere and then come back to start it within an hour or so. So, when I go to work in the morning and leave to come home it's fine. But, if I try and go somewhere soon after getting home, it starts acting up. I've been able to get it started by holding the ignition longer, but it doesn't work every time. Any ideas?

    Thanks for your help everyone!
  • j986rj986r Member Posts: 2
    First, Window regulators are a big business for GM. A regulator consists of the motor, steel bracket and the cable assembly that moves your window.Cost about $350 bucks if you do it yourself. Add another $100 to have it done. Don't buy aftermarket at the auto parts store. I tried two different brands, they don't fit exactly right and fail in a few months, so bite the bullet and buy OEM part at Chevy or Buick dealer. You can't fix it, you have to replace the whole thing. I have two intrigues and used to own a Buick. All had this problem.
    Second, starting problem. This cost me several hundred dollars to get identified and several returns to the shop. The fuel pressure regulator is a vacuum controled rubber diaphram on the fuel injector rail. It develops a pin hole leak. This dains a few ounces of gas into the intake when you turn off the engine because the rail stays under pressure. If you park the car with a warm engine, and come back, this extra fuel vapor fools the engine sensors into thinking the engine is running very rich. This causes the engine to stall out when the electronics try to correct for this. When the car sits for an extended period the extra fuel condenses and doesn't hit the engine with super rich vapor on startup so everything seems fine when your mechanic starts the car after leaving it in his parking lot for a couple of hours. Get it fixed or it will drive you nuts.
  • andejoshandejosh Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Does anyone have a diagram for the door? I can't seem to get a good feel for how the cable attaches to the window.
  • aswiftaswift Member Posts: 1
    This is great, I just had both of the same problems arise on my 2000 Intrigue this week. Just got the drivers window regulator fixed for 360$, if that wasn't enough, I've just read this post and I have the exact same starting problem. It will start fine in the morning, and if it's been sitting for a long while, but after an hour and a half or so, it has a lot of trouble and I have to hold the ignition down as well. My question is, on average, how much will a new fuel pressure regulator and labour usually cost?
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    FWIW, I recently replaced a read-door window regulator myself. I bought the OEM part from http://gmpartsdirect.com for $180 plus S&H. That's about half of the price at the dealer and replacing it myself wasn't rocket science either.

    And, yes, it's amazing how flimsy the cable attachments are. Were they made of steel instead of plastic, they would last longer than the car... :P

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