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Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems



  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Check the second link in post 100. It's part of this discussion.

    I haven't heard of any problems with the third party regulators. I use the logic that if GM's window regulators are so good why did they fail in the first place. Basically you are replacing a poorly design part with another poorly designed part. At least with the third party, I see some savings in the pocketbook.
  • i recently replaced the lower o2 sensor with a universal sensor and spliced everything back the way it was. but i found that someone had splicced the wires up a little further and it looks as though they had added length to the wires and they do not need it. But my car is still throwing a code for the bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit. Anyone have an idea what i can do to fix my problem? I have a black, pink, purple, and tan wire at the connector but the universal o2 sensor wiring diagram said I should have 2 brown wires a purple and a black. Please help I am pulling my hair out with this car.
  • what engine? and year? what OBD2 code? there are several colors schemes. sensor 2 is after the catalytic converter.

    Nevertheless, You need to check the wiring, specifically the splices both yours and the other guys.

    Did you ohm out the sensor heater at the sensor? It is a simple heater with a low ohm value say 12 ohms. You need a digital meter with a high input impedance around a O2 sensor.
    Did you measure the voltage at the sensor for the heater. Should be 12 volts for a bit after starting. It warms the heater to make the sensor do its thing sooner, therefore less emissions.

    For instance
    A 2000 has a black, purple pink and tan on sensor 1 and sensor 2 have the same colors, but tan and ppl have white tracer strips on them. Either way, the pnk and blk are the heater for both with blk being sensor ground. the rest find their way back to the PCM.

    So with needles or such back prob the connector for the heater wires and start up, you shoud get 12 volts if not then the wiring is bad.

    How did you connect it up if the de-tructions did not give accurate colors, Ie. did they tell you which 2 wires were heater and which were sensor?

  • My 99 olds intrigue GLS with 3.5L engine has 285,000 KM on it.

    I have had problems with cranking for about 4-5 seconds before it will start when in the morning and worse when it is cold out. Also problems with it stalling after start up if I back out of a parking spot and let off the gas to put in gear and when slowing down at a light especially bad if I don't let it warm up enough. Once I have driven it for about 5 min it doesn't have any stalling problems.

    The other day it started up fine after work and I was driving down the street and it just stalled out while driving normally down the road at like 60Km/h, this time it would not re-start at all. It cranks just fine but it's almost like it is not getting fuel or wanting to start to run at all - just keeps cranking. So i am kind of thinking it may be a fuel pump issue or something where fuel is not getting itno the engine. When I turn the car on accessory I think I hear the fuel pump start-up but I can't really tell.
    My question is if the Crankshaft position sensor is faulty could it cause the car to not start at all like this or would it try to spark and start and then stall. Basically should I start with looking at a problem with it getting fuel or try the crankshaft position sensor.

    I know there is probably some problem with the crankshaft sensor as the Engine light was on at my last oil change about a month ago and they read the codes and codes are:

    P1811 - max adapt/ long shift
    P0122 - Tpor Appsensor 1 circuit short/low
    p0131 - o2 signal low bank 1 sensor
    p0300 - random misfire detect
    p0385 - ckp sensor 1 ckt short low

    Any advise would be appreciated. Since this car is pretty much on it's last legs I don't want to spen a fortune fixing it or even towing it to a garage, but if it's a cheap fix and I can do it get the winter out of it I will be happy.

    btw - my other common intrigue problems just to share

    - steering shaft cliunking problem - repalced under warranty
    - drivers window will not go down in cold weather until car warms up.
    - Just replaced Mass air flow sensor
    - both rear struts gone
    - intermittant flickering headlight problem

    Other than that I love the intrigue.

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I would get all the codes cleared and replace the crankshaft position sensor. I think your oxygen sensor could also be an issue.

    If those two do not solve the problems, you may start cheicking the fuel pressure regulator as well as the igntion switch.
  • Do you know if the crankshaft position sensor is a cheap fix? my 99 Trig has had that code twice.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The part costs $65 from and $62 from I've heard it is fairly easy to replace if you are comfortable under the hood of a car.
  • Yeah i saw that, I called the dealership and asked them for a quote just on labor and they said $350!!!

    I am a full time student and money is very tight.
  • Does anyone know how to replace the headlight/turnsignal switch? Do you have to remove the steering wheel? What about the airbag?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Try a private mechanic. Should be cheaper then that.
  • Thanks for your comprehensive advice. I decided to sink a little cash in the vehicle since it's still a good car. I replaced the crank position sensor, air pump relay and the secondary air pump. The SES light went out, there were no further trouble codes and it passed the emissions inspection. A few days later, the light came back on and then this morning it went out. Very strange. Any further guidance? Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Even though the light is off, the code is probably stored in the computer. A national chain auto part store can read the code for free. I have a guess at what the code might be but I'll wait for you to report back.
  • mtrammtram Posts: 6
    I have taken it to AutoZone twice and no codes show up. I'll take it again.

    Jmeasell....what's your thought?
  • the plastic that the light lever runs into splits apart. two screws on the bottom. make sure the tilt is all the way down. it can be a little tricky to get the front screw off of the switch itself. but you don't have to do anything major.
  • My headlights no longer come on automatically when it gets dark. The dash lights dim, so I assume the light sensor on top of the dash is working. The headlights work with the headlamp switch.

    Are the DRLs (The 2 yellow turn signal lights in front) supposed to go off when the headlights are turned on? My DRLs are always on with or without the headlights. When I see other Intrigues driving at night the yellow DRLs are on as well as the headlights.

    Anyone else ever have this issue?

  • bold_1bold_1 Posts: 31
    The DRLs are bright when the headlights are off and they dim when the headlights are on.
  • Headlamp relay most likely defective, or wiring to and fro.
    Sometimes taping it with the butt end of a screwdriver can get them to work. Contacts can be cleaned if you have patience to disassemble it. Or try replacing it with another relay of same kind/part# (one that's not real important).

    The bcm controls the relay with reference from the daylight senor and bypasses the manual control stick.
  • Moonshadow - Thanks. Is the headlamp relay the same as the DRL control module, or something different? If diff where is it?

  • The headlamp relay is most probably in the power distribution box under the hood, look on the under side of the black cover for a listing and location. If not there, then the manual is your friend to show the location.
  • i have the same symptoms and i took it to a local electrical specialist
    here in sarnia ontario canada.i won't say who but everyone here will know,it's a fairly small city.i told them to check the wiring as you said and they said it is all fine.when i took it there this morning i told them the alternator was dead.later this afternoon they called me and said low and behold your no good! that will be $136.00 please for the quote to fix it. the repair bill for the alternator alone would have been $900.00could they tell me what caused it? NO! did they check the wiring as i asked?they didn't think that was the other words NO! i am going to put a used alternator on it and try to track it
    down.this is the second one to fry in 18 about pissed off!
    when i disconnect the battery and reconnect it everything is fine.all the power the engine is supposed to have is there as where it was sluggish to the point of barely smells like wires burning mention of this from the pro's either.the battery tests low and the alt is supposed to be dead,so why does it start and run fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery? :confuse: hope i get it figured out soon. any suggestions that doesn't involve a gas can and a match.
    thanks in advance
  • so why does it start and run fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    If this is all you did then you should check for corrosion in the boots at the battery post. very common on GM's.

    Disconnect both posts, pry out the center bolt that connects connector to battery and then slide off red and black boots. Get a wire brush in there and clean connector and stud down to bare metal. Sometimes it is caked on there and you will need a file and pick to hack away at the crust. When shiny metal is visible your done. Then check connector for burning, melting etc.
    Do not be fooled, i have seen 1/8" build up, the little teeth were buried and the crude looks just the like metal connector.
    Slide boot back on and then replace the center bolt. You may have issues getting the stud back in, but using a small screwdriver start on one side, prying the boot up over the stud rim and then work your way around

    cheers good luck
  • thanks, but it's all good in that dealer told me that it could also be the ignition switch believe it or not.says next time it happens to tap the ignition switch .i guess there having a few cars come back with that problem.
  • Changing the ignition switch was the answer to problems with my 99 GLS.
  • my new alt was installed today .all problems went away.there was a bad fuse aswell that the pro's didn't find and 3 bad wires.the alt was in fact junk though.of cours ethey said that it wasn't the case when they looked at it.OF COURSE NOT! got the alt from murray's for $167.00 and installed for $218.00 all taxes inc.a far cry from the $900.00 the PRO'S wanted.
  • I have a 1999 Intrigue that the brights come on and stay on when it is dark outside and the temperature is below 60 degrees. If I hold the turn signal down slightly, it will go off the brights but it is not fun driving or safe for that matter. An intermittent stalk switch short was mentioned in #8 but not sure what the fix is. When I took it to the mechanic, it wasn't dark or cold - go figure! Also my brake light never goes off.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I drove through some wet slushy conditions last night and the signals stopped working for a bit on both sides. Is there an area along the wire route where I could or should do some water proofing? Is this going to happen alot? I put 185000 miles on my 98 regal and never had an electrical problem.
  • I've had this light come up for many reasons. It's happened since it had about 40K miles and still now at 155K. Biggest concern was replacing the crankshaft position sensor, which actually was causing a hard-stall (hard knock when driving / stall). I did that around 100K. Going forward, I know there are other OBD SES related faults that aren't really that critical.

    Is it common for people to drive the Intrigue permanently with the SES coming on every so often? I noticed the fuel type and altitude affect the sensor and my gut tells me the whole GM OBD is just too touchy to work correctly. I really just want to know if there is a safety issue with this SES or if it's just a nuisance light. I know the crankshaft position sensor is safety because it kills the engine. :confuse:

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You should really get the SES light checked. Most auto part stores will read the SES codes for FREE and reset it for you. Get the codes read and post on here. There are a bunch of us that can tell you how serious the codes are.

    While your car may be running fine, I bet your gas mileage i suffering.
  • Does anyone experience a surge in your electrical equipment on your Intrigue? I had my alternator checked and it was found to be ok. Please help!!!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    What kind of blinking problem are you having?
  • My Headlights blink or go dim, the dash lights do this and the fan on the air/ heater blower weakens. The entire electrical system seems to go dim or fade.
    Thanks so much!
  • I read a message about checking the ground wire from the alt to the frame. I was unable to find this wire, but did locate the ground wire from the battery. I took this off and cleaned it, but am still having the electrical blinking problem.
    Should I have the alt replaced?
  • I have a well maintained Intrigue with an issue - I opened the sunroof and its staying open. I suspected an electrical issue with the switch or relay. Relay was clean and all other windows on it functioned. Since it's done this before and no amount or angle of pushing on that button has made any difference in function I have been looking for other solutions.

    Sometimes it will work fine. Sometimes it will not and this is a situation in which it is not.

    Anyone know of a manual release to allow me to slide it shut? The motor appears to work, the track has not been a problem, and frankly the whole thing is getting frustrating and mystifying because certain combinations of switching on the electrical system have allowed me to do something about it in the past...however not this time, and I can't use that vehicle till it's fixed.

    Now I know 2 other users on the forum had similar issues that involved pushing on it (which suggest a gear or track problem) and I know I can replace the motor on the sunroof (assuming I can figure out how to get into that area) so all is far from lost; however, like I said, there is a serious time issue involved and rain is not far off...

    Any help appreciated, thanks.
  • nihi99nihi99 Posts: 2
    i jumped my battery and it didnt start then i charged my battery and it wont start i have all the lights working but the car will not start its a 1998 intrigue
  • has anyone had their dashboard lights go crazy? I'm still fixing the lil kinks in my 01 intrigue with 160k miles on it. First getting a rumbling coming from front when car is in drive, then softens or disappears in park, then had some hit my driverside fender, and destroyed the clips and light just by barely touching the fender, and now 2 days ago, lights on dashboard seem to have gone berserk!!! before it was just a check engine light, now I have ses light, abs light, and traction light on. just out of the blue . I'll be checking for good grounds at the battery, but just don't know any more. any help will be appreciated.
  • Hi,

    My Mom has a 1996 Cutlass - had the same problem... Check the PCM (powertrain control module) ground. Everything on the car is controlled by the PCM including the dash lights. My Mom's is located by the right fender and started acting-up after an accident - the dealer failed to tighten it during the repairs.

    I don't know where the PCM is on the Intrigue, but the wacky lights problem sounds familiar!

    Good Luck,
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Teh SES, ABS and Trac on together normally means there is a problem with one of the wheel sensors. It's a common problem with the Intrigue.
  • Last week I used the 4-way flashers and managed to push the little red transparent lens on the switch into the switch body. I think I can probably fix it myself with some adhesive but it would be easier if I could remove the switch from the dash. Does anyone know how that switch pod attaches to the dash panel? Does it just pry out?
  • witt97witt97 Posts: 2
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    Have you checked the heavy red wire from the batt to the altenater with an ohmmeter.

    It has a fusible link in it, probably near one end. It presence is where the wire diameter gets smaller and a bit of heatshink is visible

    Did you know that your caps lock button is on. Not nice :confuse:
  • witt97witt97 Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 intrigue and i just put a new alternator and a new pcm or ecm in the car and the car wellnot charge the battery came someone plz tell me what going on with this car and the start is having troble turning over is there any one that can help thank you :confuse: :sick:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Have you had the battery checked? Based on this post, you are assuming the battery not charging is the problem. It seems like the problem is in fact your car is having trouble turning over which may or may not be a battery issue. considering some of the problems with the igntion switch in the Intrigue, this would be the first place i would look. The ignition switch causes some weird problems.

    Are there other reasons you suspect the battery is the culprit?
  • Is there a way to turn off the running lights, but not the blinkers, as well as turn off the automatic headlights on a 2002 Intrigue?
  • Unfortunatly this morning i was my husbands "knight in shinning armor " as i retreived him from the side of the road once again! My father has been a mechanic for 25 years, and i was raised in shops all my life, so i know enough about cars to know that when he tells me ... its acting funny i can usually tell him whats wrong. Well . he called me and said ... The lights are flickering , every guage has gone hay wire... and now im broke down. Alternator. the 4th alternator in a year! since its his car ... he takes it where he always has , and since it has the northstar engine , my father laughs and says its better driven over a cliff than running. But i still cannot figure out why its going through so many alternators , does any one have any insight on the posibility? ive tried looking up recalls , and i cant find anything that would pertain to why it keeps dieing! any light on this would be helpfull!
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    What engine is it on? 3.5L?
    Where are the replacement alternators coming from?

    New, used or rebuilt and from which manufacturers/companies?
    Are they burnt-- melted windings?
    Are they siezing?

    When new and when dead.
    What is/was the output voltage of the alt? Battery voltage with car running?
    What is the current output of the alt with car running and all electicals (fan/lights/radio etc) turned off?

    Have you put the battery on a charger by itself to see what kind of load it is drawing when it is charging?

    Two most effective way to kill an alt. is with heat or over current and the second causes the first.
    Third way is having them reconditioned with crappy/inferior electrical components ie. regulators and diodes

    Bad bearings usually start out making noise before they interfere with the alt ability to supply power.

  • dtrain3dtrain3 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Olds Intrigue with 212K miles(WOW). The car is still a great car, but I have been having some electrical problems that has gotten under my skin. I can be cruising down the highway and notice that I no longer have power steering, it's because the car has shut off on me. I will pull it over or put in neutral and most of the time, it restarts. It has cut off on me while turning into traffic (very blessed not to have had an accident).

    It also decides on it's own when it wants to start. I can go out and turn the ignition and it cranks like it was just off the lot. Other times, it turns but will not crank (like no fuel getting to it). I hear the fuel pump, but sometimes when I turn the key, the pump hesitates along with guages hesitating to show. The security light, service engine soon, check engine, and track low lights all will come on. All will stay on when it won't crank, but once the lights go off, it usually will crank and stay off until the next time it won't crank.

    The dealer said I need a new ignition switch, but I have replace an ignition at least three times already on this vehicle.

    I had a code to tell me to clean the EGR (which was replace in 2003) they cleaned it, but said I had many other codes that Autozone did not find. Autozone only said that EGR code (cleaning) and a torque something stuck in on.

    We're talking $700+ just in the ignition. Not to mention at least 8 other codes.

    Can anyone tell me what is the major problem with my car. If it is the ignition, this would be the 4th replacement and that just isn't logical.

    Any advice? I would like to keep this car on the road. Though I am frustrated, I think this car is a very good car. If I could just fix this headache. It could go another 100k easily.

    By the way it's a 3800 series engine.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I had a code to tell me to clean the EGR (which was replace in 2003) they cleaned it, but said I had many other codes that Autozone did not find. Autozone only said that EGR code (cleaning) and a torque something stuck in on.

    Who said you had many other codes?

    Without knowing the codes, we're just guessing. Based on the problem you described, my first guess would be the ignition switch also. Have you tried another mechanic to install the ignition switch?

    The "torque something" is probably the torque converter in the transmission. It's a common problem with these trannies.

    LIke I mentioned, you need to find out what the other codes are? Most likely you need someone with a Tech II scanner. some of the codes can only be read by the dealer. you may have to invest $75 to have the dealer scan your car.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    I just also had the front left turn signal heating up and burning out. The dash lights even dimmed, and flashed as the turn signal blinked. This was due to the insulation on the wires to the bulb socket falling off, and the wires shorted to each other. I just now taped them up with electrical tape, but the loss of the outer jacket seems to occur even into the adjoining bright-light section. My brother, an all-around handyman/electrician/remodeler/car-mechanic, suggested the brush-on insulation liquid that can be found at home depot. Has anyone ever replaced the entire wiring and socket? I hesitate to check out the passenger-side light, as it likely has the same wire-chafing or heating issue and the disintegrating wire insulation jacket.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I've replaced the turn signal socket (not the wire). It will take you about 5-7 minutes. I would recommend ordering it from or It will be half the price that a GM dealer will charge.
  • kplacerkplacer Posts: 97
    The power window in the right rear door has stopped working. No noise, no nothing. Tried both the master switch on the drivers door and the switch on the affected door with no luck, so it's not the switch. Now, that window has been used maybe a half-dozen times in the 5 years I've owned the car, so I'm thinking maybe it's either corrosion on the contacts or hardened lubricant from lack of use. I'd like to try to resuscitate it before rushing to replace it. Any tips? Also, I see that gmpartsdirect only lists the entire regulator assembly complete with motor, which seems like overkill, while on a well-known auction site there are numerous listing for an aftermarket motor assembly only. Anyone have experience with these, or know if GM will sell you just the motor? Thanks in advance.
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