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Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems



  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem with my '99 Intrigue. The bulb in one of the front turn signals would fail and i would replace it and it would fail again in a few weeks. The problem is in the small bulb holder that detaches from the electric cable. I got a used one (and bulb) from a savage yard for $2 and haven't had any problems in 2 years. Also, the rubber caps that you take off to access the turn signal light bulbs have to be in place. If they fall off use duct tape to cover the hole.

    No need to have a mechanic do this job. The whole headlight assembly comes right out. Your husband or u should be able to do this repair.

    Look at the bad bulb, If it looks burned at its base then that is the problem. Another possibility is the turn signal flasher unit but I doubt it.
  • Bayview, Thanks so much for this advice. I can't wait to (with my hubby & dad) do what you've said!!! These problems are so annoying and I really don't want to spend a lot at a shop to get no results.

    I can't wait!!
  • I just recently replaced the battery in my 2000 intrigue gl to possibly remedy a starter problem. the car starts fine in the morning but after driving it for 5 or ten miles or so, and stopping and trying to start again it takes a good 5 to 6 seconds on the starter before the car starts up again. problem two also only occures after i have been driving the car for a bit, i hear a noise under the car near the rear evertime it changes gears. like a "golf ball in a cardboard box" sound. any ideas???
  • When you say it takes a good 5 to 6 seconds on the starter before it starts up again, do you mean it cranks for that long? If so, it could be your crankshaft position sensor. Mine started doing that last year - took many cranks before it would start. Replaced the sensor myself and it solved the problem.

  • janailjanail Posts: 5
    My 2000 Intrigue, 1st motor out at 89,000 and the 2nd motor with 120,000, has the SES light blinking. Not sure what the cause is. Performance is not like it was before. The car shakes in idle position and my 0 to 60 slags. Could the air filter or oil filter be replaced. I think i will go to AutoZone for a code check, hope not to serious.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If I remember right, the blinkng SES is a serious issue and should be checked out sooner rather than later.
  • janailjanail Posts: 5
    I changed the Evaporative Emmission Canister and the EGR valve and gasket. I put in a spark plug because I am getting code 301 cylinder 1 misfire. So we thought that it was just the spark plug. My next guess is the fuel injectors. According to Chilton's diagram injector 3 is located on cylinder 1. Is this correct? Any informationwould be greatly helped!!!

    200 Intrigue 3.5 Twin Cam 120,000 miles on odometer and on its second engine. The first change was at 89,000 miles but the second had only 38,000 when it was placed inside.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    NOt sure about the P0301 code and i am not a mechanic or handy with cars but I have read where a misfire could be the coil under the spark plug and not the spark plug itself. Since these are 100k mile spark plugs, I doubt they would fail at 38k. If they do, something is causing that failure.

    Also try doing a Google search on code P0301. there is tons of information on the internet diagnosing these codes.
  • I have the starter replaced twice within the last 90 days. It seems when i get in the car nothing everything comes on except the engine. Not the battery nor the alternater Is there something that would prohibit any juice from getting to the starter
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If the battery and alternator check out fine, I would look at the ignition module.
  • klyn1klyn1 Posts: 1
    Did the suggestion for the ignition module work? I am having the exact problem right now w/my 1998 intrigue. I just got my starter replaced a couple of months ago and I was sitting at a stop light in the turn lane & the car just went dead. My battery was still working but no clicking no anything when I tried to turn it over.
  • My 2001 intrigue would not start today (~68K miles). When I turned the key, I could hear the click noise but nothing else. I just checked the battery, it was 12V. Does this mean the starter is dead?
  • When I turned the key, I could hear the click noise but nothing else. I just checked the battery, it was 12V. Does this mean the starter is dead?

    First, you must measure the bat voltage while you turn the key.
    It must not go below 9 volts to engage the starter. Normally it will drop to about 10 volts. If it drops below 9 then the bat is toast or discharged.

    You must also determine if the click is from the starter relay (in the control box under the hood) or the starter solenoid(on the starter).

    As well, there is a crank fuse (40 amp)in the control box that allows 12 volts through the starter relay to the starter solenoid

    good luck
  • I have a 98 Old Intrigue 3.8V6 194K. My last oil change was approx 1 mth ago and about two weeks my oil light has come on sometimes for 10 minutes then off for the day etc.. Now the light stays on all the time?

    I went back to the garage and no leaks and oil level is OK? They also pulled the codes and nothing? Could this be a sensor? Bad wire anyone else have the same issue? If a sensor were would it be located?

    Due you also know if I can diagram on the Net (Free) for this car?

    I'm trying to stay away of the $90/hr GM charge?
  • I did as you suggested and the voltage was only 8-9. So I had the battery changed and it is fine now. Thanks a bunch.
  • I'm new to this discussion, but it looks very helpful. Any info on either of my two issues below would be greatly appreciated.

    I have a '99 Intrigue with two issues:

    1. Busted Window Cable:
    I was having problems with the driver window switch and while attempting to toggle the window up and down, somehow the cable in the window motor got caught in the motor and busted. I'm looking for help on 3 things: Where does the cable connect to the window (diagram?); Where can I get a replacement cable; Any tips for re-wrapping the cable inside the motor?

    2. Occasional Starting Problems:

    Usually the car starts fine, but recently it dies out on me right after the initial ignition. I've noticed that it typically happens after I drive somewhere and then come back to start it within an hour or so. So, when I go to work in the morning and leave to come home it's fine. But, if I try and go somewhere soon after getting home, it starts acting up. I've been able to get it started by holding the ignition longer, but it doesn't work every time. Any ideas?

    Thanks for your help everyone!
  • j986rj986r Posts: 2
    First, Window regulators are a big business for GM. A regulator consists of the motor, steel bracket and the cable assembly that moves your window.Cost about $350 bucks if you do it yourself. Add another $100 to have it done. Don't buy aftermarket at the auto parts store. I tried two different brands, they don't fit exactly right and fail in a few months, so bite the bullet and buy OEM part at Chevy or Buick dealer. You can't fix it, you have to replace the whole thing. I have two intrigues and used to own a Buick. All had this problem.
    Second, starting problem. This cost me several hundred dollars to get identified and several returns to the shop. The fuel pressure regulator is a vacuum controled rubber diaphram on the fuel injector rail. It develops a pin hole leak. This dains a few ounces of gas into the intake when you turn off the engine because the rail stays under pressure. If you park the car with a warm engine, and come back, this extra fuel vapor fools the engine sensors into thinking the engine is running very rich. This causes the engine to stall out when the electronics try to correct for this. When the car sits for an extended period the extra fuel condenses and doesn't hit the engine with super rich vapor on startup so everything seems fine when your mechanic starts the car after leaving it in his parking lot for a couple of hours. Get it fixed or it will drive you nuts.
  • Thanks. Does anyone have a diagram for the door? I can't seem to get a good feel for how the cable attaches to the window.
  • aswiftaswift Posts: 1
    This is great, I just had both of the same problems arise on my 2000 Intrigue this week. Just got the drivers window regulator fixed for 360$, if that wasn't enough, I've just read this post and I have the exact same starting problem. It will start fine in the morning, and if it's been sitting for a long while, but after an hour and a half or so, it has a lot of trouble and I have to hold the ignition down as well. My question is, on average, how much will a new fuel pressure regulator and labour usually cost?
  • evandroevandro Posts: 1,108
    FWIW, I recently replaced a read-door window regulator myself. I bought the OEM part from for $180 plus S&H. That's about half of the price at the dealer and replacing it myself wasn't rocket science either.

    And, yes, it's amazing how flimsy the cable attachments are. Were they made of steel instead of plastic, they would last longer than the car... :P

  • A faulty switch 20$ and a frind installed $20. Thanks for the advise
  • Our car had 50k on it when we got it and ever since the electrical system will "blink" on us and now has started to stall on occasions. When driving at night everything just shuts down for 1 second then comes back on. During the day you can feel the hesatation and see the gauges drop to 0 then back on, if it doesnt stall. We had the extended warrenty but the dealer could find nothing wrong even after many tests. Now that the warrenty is done they want to run a bunch of test. Not going to happen! Anyone else have this issue. There has to be a short in the wiring somewhere, but I dont know where to start. I almost wish it would totaly die so I could find the short. Anyone else with this fun?
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,024
    I had the same problem with my 2000 GL. It turned out being a faulty ignition switch. Dealer replaced, and problem never returned.

    2010 Pilot EXL-RES, 2013 Accord EX

  • If i park my car and don't start it for a day, the car won't start until the 5 or 6 turns of the ignition. But after i get it started, it seems to stop and start fine until i park it in the evening.

    I don't hear any clicking. The lights all come on bright.
    I got my 2 year old battery checked and that was ok. Battery terminals are clean.

    None of the warning lights come on like the check engine light.

    Any ideas where the problem might be? Starter relay? Starter?

    thanks in advance
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Just a guess but it could be a fuel related. I believe somw people have had problems with the fuel pressure regulator.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    We have a 2000 Intrigue with that service engine warning light that comes on at different times. Auto Zone personnel said it's the sensor in the air intake.They told us to unplug the electrical connector and then replug it in. If that didn't reset it, take alcohol on a que tip and clean the sensor inside the air tube. Is this for real?
    Thanks, cneading
  • Search this forum for "air pump" to prevent my retelling my story. I had my 2001 GLS put out the P0410 error code, which indicates the air pump is having difficulties. It's about $400 parts/labor at a dealer. Since your light is going off on its own (mine was constant), there may be less of a problem. Get the code number from the autozone printout (advanced auto did mine and provides a printout with the code) on google, and you should fine the actron or acton or whatever website that makes the equipment and describes what the codse mean. Hope this helps!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It sounds like they were referring to the Mass Air Flow (MAF)Sensor. I've had this code pop up twice (P0101). I changed the air filter; removed the MAF and cleaned with carberator cleaner and a rag (be gentle); and gave the throttle body a good cleaning. Both times I noticed the throttle body was covered with black gunk and needed extra effort to manuever. It worked both times.
  • thanks, it worked
  • Hello everyone! I have a 98 Intrigue. While replacing the lamp in the fog lamps, I noticed a hole in the lamp housing. Apparently the bulbs are burning holes through the housing, both sides on both lamps. Anyone have this issue? Anyone have suggestions for a fix? I thought about epoxy and a small piece of aluminum right over the bulb on the outside of the housing.
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