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Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems



  • A faulty switch 20$ and a frind installed $20. Thanks for the advise
  • Our car had 50k on it when we got it and ever since the electrical system will "blink" on us and now has started to stall on occasions. When driving at night everything just shuts down for 1 second then comes back on. During the day you can feel the hesatation and see the gauges drop to 0 then back on, if it doesnt stall. We had the extended warrenty but the dealer could find nothing wrong even after many tests. Now that the warrenty is done they want to run a bunch of test. Not going to happen! Anyone else have this issue. There has to be a short in the wiring somewhere, but I dont know where to start. I almost wish it would totaly die so I could find the short. Anyone else with this fun?
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,952
    I had the same problem with my 2000 GL. It turned out being a faulty ignition switch. Dealer replaced, and problem never returned.

    2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2013 Honda Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • If i park my car and don't start it for a day, the car won't start until the 5 or 6 turns of the ignition. But after i get it started, it seems to stop and start fine until i park it in the evening.

    I don't hear any clicking. The lights all come on bright.
    I got my 2 year old battery checked and that was ok. Battery terminals are clean.

    None of the warning lights come on like the check engine light.

    Any ideas where the problem might be? Starter relay? Starter?

    thanks in advance
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Just a guess but it could be a fuel related. I believe somw people have had problems with the fuel pressure regulator.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    We have a 2000 Intrigue with that service engine warning light that comes on at different times. Auto Zone personnel said it's the sensor in the air intake.They told us to unplug the electrical connector and then replug it in. If that didn't reset it, take alcohol on a que tip and clean the sensor inside the air tube. Is this for real?
    Thanks, cneading
  • Search this forum for "air pump" to prevent my retelling my story. I had my 2001 GLS put out the P0410 error code, which indicates the air pump is having difficulties. It's about $400 parts/labor at a dealer. Since your light is going off on its own (mine was constant), there may be less of a problem. Get the code number from the autozone printout (advanced auto did mine and provides a printout with the code) on google, and you should fine the actron or acton or whatever website that makes the equipment and describes what the codse mean. Hope this helps!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It sounds like they were referring to the Mass Air Flow (MAF)Sensor. I've had this code pop up twice (P0101). I changed the air filter; removed the MAF and cleaned with carberator cleaner and a rag (be gentle); and gave the throttle body a good cleaning. Both times I noticed the throttle body was covered with black gunk and needed extra effort to manuever. It worked both times.
  • thanks, it worked
  • Hello everyone! I have a 98 Intrigue. While replacing the lamp in the fog lamps, I noticed a hole in the lamp housing. Apparently the bulbs are burning holes through the housing, both sides on both lamps. Anyone have this issue? Anyone have suggestions for a fix? I thought about epoxy and a small piece of aluminum right over the bulb on the outside of the housing.
  • nbnernbner Posts: 15
    I would check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)which is a
    real problem for many. Do a search on here and you should find a method for checking it and replacing. It is a do it yourself job.
  • I have had several problems that seem to be all coming back to the fact that I am having an electrical problem. The other night I was driving (just came off a hwy) and the first complete stop that I had to come to was in a right turning lane. My power steering went and I wrestled the car into the gas station on the corner. I now think that my car died when I was coming to a stop; didn't know it at the time because the car is quiet and I was focused on trying to keep control of the car. Last night, coming off the hwy, I stopped in a turn lane and my car died...this time I noticed the car died because of my gauges. I still had interior lights, radio etc but it would not start back up right away. After 20 min of sitting, I tried it again and it started. My Service engine lights and low oil/change oil lights stay on all the time, my front turn signals sometimes blink when turning and other times they come on and stay on (no blinking) until I turn. What I thought to be a burned out bulb was replaced and I still have the same problem. My mechanic friend said that my ABS system is not working properly either. Not sure if that is electrical too. I am at a loss and would love an explanation; I am very close to trading it in because this just seems like too many problems to fix. Any suggestions?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I think you have a couple of things going on.

    First thing first, if your Check Engine light is on, go to an auto part store and have them scan the engine. this is free at Pep boys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto part, etc. When this light is on, one of the many sensors in your car is not functioning properly and has left a code. This code gives you an idea of what may be wrong with your car.

    Get your oil level checked and/or oil changed depending on the last time it was changed. The 3.5L engine in the Intrigue is known to burn oil so you could very well be low on oil. Also your vehicle has a oil life monitor that measure the rpms in your car and recommends an oil change after a certain time. You need to reset this monitor each time you change your oil. the directions to do this:
    1. turn key to the On position but do not start vehicle.
    2. depress the fully depress the accelerator 3 times
    3. wait about 3 seconds and the "change oil" light will flash.
    4. Once it has stop flashing, the oil life monitor is reset.

    As far as the car dying at the stop sign, it could be a couple of things which are common issues with the Intrigue. It could be your ignition switch, crankshaft sensor or fuel pressure regulator. the answer may also be found with the "check Engine" light.

    A burned out turn signal will make the turn signal flash "double time".

    do you have any other lights that stay on after you start the vehicle? If your ABS is not working, the brake light should aslo be on.
  • janailjanail Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Intrigue GL, with 126,000+. The other day my Air bag light went on and goes off. I figured that to be from the puddle of water I got in it the other day after a heavy rain storm. Today I was driving the car and the security light flashed on while I was driving. I know that it is a theft deterant device. Then after a few minutes all the lights come on and the speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge and coolant level gauges all drop down. Which gets me worried when I am on the highway. But the car keeps driving. I looked in the Chilton's and there is nothing to help with this problem. If I read each case by case it leads to the alternator. But I am not losing power to anything else. Could it be that or a more seroius problem.
  • I have a 98 Intrigue GLS. During the day the daytime running lights will blink maybe once every 15 min. also the compass direction indicator indicator in the rearview mirror flickers. At night the headlights come on automatically but they will blink off come back on every 5 to 10 min.. If I turn the head lights on manually they are noticeably brighter and they stay on, but every so often I can still hear a click in the dashboard trying to turn them off. I have already checked/replaced the battery ground on passenger side fender. Is there another ground somewhere ? Or could it be the "daylight sensor" on the dash? Any suggestions would be appreciated as this is driving me crazy.
  • Thanks for the reply dtownfb. Yes, my oil lights do stay on even after an oil change, however, the monitor was not being reset after the change. My mechanic friend has ordered an ignition switch but not installed it yet. My brake light is not on except for when I first start the car but on that note, my Door Ajar light doesn't come on either. I intentionally drove down my driveway the other night with the door open to see if that light would come on when in motion and it didn't. So, I assumed that the lights on my panel were either not coming on when they should (i.e. brake light) and staying on when they shouldn't (i.e Check Engine light). I took your advice and went to Auto Zone, they hooked my car up to see why the Check Engine light was on and they told me nothing was coming back as a problem. Hopefully the ignition switch replacement will solve the problem of the car dying (which it has done to me several more times since I posted this). Once again, I really appreciate your reply :)
  • bold_1bold_1 Posts: 31
    Greetings! It all started when the usual "rapid flash" of the turn signal came on like a bulb is out. I went to Autozone, got the bulb and replaced it and it worked fine. 2 Hours later after one trip it was back out again. I took the bulb out to look at it and it seems that the bulb housing (where it connects to the wires) it getting too hot and burning the bulb where they connect. The new bulb was burned and somewhat melted on the metal contact for the trun signal. The park lights still come on but that one part is eating bulbs like crazy. Does anyone know if the "bulb connector" is a cheap part?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You can get the part at any GM dealership for about $35. It will take you about 5-7 minutes from the time you lift the hood until you are washing the grease off of your hands.

    If you are not in a hurry, i would suggest ordering from or Both should be cheaper then the dealership but it will take a couple of days to arrive.

    I had the same thing happen to me. Very common problem on the Intrigues.
  • nbnernbner Posts: 15
    After going through several of these expensive sockets
    I hit upon the idea of using dielectric grease inside the socket. It seems to have done the trick

    The male and female connectors will wipe enough of the grease off at the mating surface so that the electricity will flow just fine. The important part is that there is no chance of the grease creating a conductive path between adjacent terminals in a multi-terminal socket. The main purpose of the grease is to seal the terminals against oxidation which creates a high resistance barrier and moisture and dirt which can result in shorts and ground paths.

    You should be able to purchase this grease at an automotive parts supply store.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If it happens again, i'll use the dielectric grease. I don't think I will have my Intrigue long enough for that repair to rear its ugly head again.
  • My Mother-in-laws 98 Intrigue 3800 will not start. My task is to get going again and I'm just looking for some direction. I've gas to the cylinders and checked 2 spark plugs for spark but it will not start. I've noticed the dash has 2 check engine soon indicators. The one on the right stays on when trying to start while all other dash lights go out. Has anyone ever taken resistance measurements or voltage readings on the crankshaft or cam position sensors? I do not have a manual yet. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If that "check engine soon" light on the right is on, you most likely have a code stored. If you are getting fuel, you could have an issue with the ignition module. common problem on the Intrigues. the crankshaft sensor is another very common problem.

    I would borrow a code reader to see if there is a code stored. Most of the regulars have seen the common codes and can probably help you.

    BTW, Make sure the battery is fine.
  • Thanks for the good info. Do you know were I should look for the ignition module to make sure it at least plugged in before I trailer it to Advanced Auto for a code readout?
    Thanks again
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Since you are pretty handy, i would. Or some places allow you to borrow the code reader.
  • hankjoeyhankjoey Posts: 11
    I can't believe both passenger side power window (didn't repair) & then a couple years later driver side power window also doesn't go down on the 1998 Olds Intrigue. Windows were hardly ever used. Rear windows still work.

    1. Is it possible there is some sort of short affecting both windows now.
    2. Seems odd that the motor would go bad in both doors.
    3. Other ideas of what might be the problem.
    Thank you
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    I had faulty driver window switch on my 2001 GLS. The driver window is the only window that only has one switch to operate it. I assume you (1) have the window lock switch on the driver's controls set, and that the window does not operate from any switch. Fortunately, replacing switches is easier than motors.
    There are plenty of window motors on ebay, which tells me that they go bad frequently. Actually, using the motor will make it last longer. It kinda follows the old saying of "use it or lose it." A good place to get new parts is
  • hankjoeyhankjoey Posts: 11
    You're correct. The drivers switch wouldn't open the passenger window, nor would the passenger switch. Guess I'll start with the lower cost stuff... start by changing out the switch on the drivers side, then go to the motors if I have to. Yes, should have used those motors more, ha.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    If both switches fail to open the window, then I doubt the switches would be bad. taking off the interior door panel and verifying power to the motor when you activate the switch would identify a problem with the motor or its parts. When I looked for a diagram on how to take off the driver door panel (and locate all of the hidden clips, I ended up buying a set of directions and pictures from a car stereo installation place online. I'm not sure where to find one for the back doors.
  • ron1967ron1967 Posts: 3
    Hi my 98 Olds Intrigue has been giving me a hard time. when i start it the lights in the dash are bright, the air bag light goes off and the transmission is all messed up cause when i put it in reverse it goes in really hard and when it's in drive the car hardly moves even when pressing on the accelerator. it seems like it's overcharging. but then after a few minutes i shut the car off and then start it again it runs fine. i changes the battery and alternator but the problems is still there. please i need help this car is driving me carzy. thank!
  • I have a 2000 intrigue with a 3.5 motor and keep getting the codes P0036 heater circuit sensor 1 bank 2 and code P1372. Any one know how to fix these problems? I live in a state that requires emissions and need to fix these before i can renew my tags. Thanks to anyone who can help.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    P0036.....O2 Sensor heater control circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

    bank 1= side with #1 cylinder: sensor 2= after catalyst.

    The heater is possible open, a wire is broken or a corroded connector from the sensor back to the cpu. there is a fuse for the heaters in the o2 sensors 15Amp.

    P1372.....Crankshaft Position Sensor A-B correlation

    Above the starter solonoid behind the exhaust manifold on the 3.5.

    Perhaps a bad sensor or dirty connector again. Replacing or moving adjusting the crank position sensor will let the car run, however, you need to have it relearned via a scan tool Thus learning the pcm about the new angles
  • ethicsethics Posts: 1
    I replaced the battery. Had the alternator tested on the car twice the amps kept falling short. Took the alternator off and had it tested 3 times and it tested fine, put it back on. I replaced all the battery cables and terminals with high current cables and terminals, because there was corrosion that had built up from the original a/c delco battery that had a recall on them for leakage (which i replaced). so the battery and the cables are all brand new and oxygen free cables corrosion resistant blah blah blah, BUT the battery still keeps draining the batter LITE comes on after a while after i charge the battery since it keeps draining. Eventualy the car dies and the battery needs recharges i have tried 3 different batteries. I am thinking that there might be a short or somewhere the car is leaking positive to the grounding or the car itself causing it to drain rapidly. IF you think this may be the problem please help. I myself dont want to run all over my car WITH a multimeter to try and find it im tired of spending time on it may just take it into the shop... please reply if any help!!!
  • thanks for the tips. yesterday i replaced the crankshaft sensor because the wire and connector all looked good. I also replaced the spark plugs because i would also get a misfire code which would sometimes prompt an O2 code. The spark plugs looked original and where burned down to nothing. I was amazed it would even run. So now i will have to run it 150 miles to learn the new sensor and will check back if i am still having problems.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I'm not the best with cars but what were the readings you were getting for the alternator when you were testing it? If it is a new battery and new connectors, then the problem most likely lies with the alternator. I believe the ground for the alternator is on the passenger side near the fuse box.

    If you go back to the original Intrigue forum (the one with 12,000 posts), you'll see the alternator is problematic causing many headaches with flickering lights. Some caused more serious problems. If you do a search for "alternator" in that forum, you might find an answer to your problem.
  • ron1967ron1967 Posts: 3
    my 98 intrigue was going crazy i thought, flickering lights, abs and airbag lights lighting up, overcharging and transmission problems. i took my car to a GM dealer and they found the problem in less than 2 hours. i was a few corroded wires. one of them leads to the voltage regulator in the alternator. this is way the car was going nuts. anyway the fixed the problem. i waited too long to go to the dealer because of high labour costs and waisted money changing parts that didnt need to be changed. i hope this info will help if any of you are having similar problems.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    The "service engine soon" light has appeared on my 99 Intrigue GL (110K miles). My local mechanic believes the power distribution box is not transferring power to the purge value. He has referred me to the dealer because he's concerned that he doesn't have the software to re-load if necessary. The car is up for inspection, including emissions, in October. If this turns out to be a big ticket item, I may not re-register the vehicle. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    did he tell you the code?

    If he is thinking purge valve, then it may well be the EVAP system which recovers fuel vapors from the tank and keeps them from venting to the atmosphere. This would be a P04xx code.

    Also the power distribution box does not transfer power anywhere, it is simply a fuse box(like the one in your house), that splits the battery power through fuses to individual circuits. The PCM / Ecm is what does all the magic. He may be thinking of changing it and hence the software reload. I'd be more inclined to look for broken wires from the pcm to te valve etc.

    Nevertheless, the money light can be activated by literally hundreds and hundreds of different codes.

    Without knowing the code, your like a rat in a maze.

    What engine do you have?

  • You can go to any autozone or advanced (discount) auto store and they will read your car's computer and give you a report on the code being reported. You do not have to pay them anything (although it is good practice to go back and get an oil filter or fuel system cleaner when it's on sale :D ). Autozone's oil change package is a good deal when it includes an STP oil filter (which they stock for the 3.5 intrigue engine and is usually $4.19 or higher). Given the code, you can search the forums and the net (google is a wonderful thing), being as precise as you can.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    Thanks for the advice. The technician doesn't recall the exact code but did mention "P04xx back in the EVAP system." I may check with Autozone as another reply suggested. I have the 3.5 engine.

    thanks again.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Are you having any issues with your Intrigue? Any strange noise? Any driveabilty issues?
  • bold_1bold_1 Posts: 31
    Hello all, I have a 99 Trig GL with 105k, and I could really use some help. Two times this week the car has stalled on me. The first time i was on the highway and i noticed i lost my power steering, then i looked at my rpm and it was at zero. I wrestled the car to the shoulder and it started right back up. The second time i was at a red light and it just shut off after sitting at the light for a minute. I am thinking the culprit could be the ignition switch. I am starting my first year of college this Tuesday and am on a very tight budjet! If someone knows anything that could help, please let me know. Also, if you know any trustworthy mechanics in the St. Louis area please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    My daughter recently advised me that she thought the vehicle was going to stall one day. I've not experienced that issue. She also mentioned that the "service engine soon" light did not come on yesterday. Strange...
  • mick1mick1 Posts: 84
    We all know that you have to scan for codes but this is my educated guess. I had the same problem car stalled 2 different times while driving after 5-7 minutes, third time check engine light came on. It was the crankshaft position sensor. Not an expensive repair. There are other posts about this common problem.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The key thing is to find out the original code. I know a popular code with the Intrigue is P0410 which deals with teh secondary air pump (emission control). But others have complained of loud whining sound at startup with no driveability issues. As moonshadow mentioned, it could literally be hundreds of codes. A trip to AutoZone will resolve that issue.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    Received the following codes during a visit to a GM dealer: 1372, 0449, 0443, 0418, 0412, 0410 and 0385. The tech checked the fuse box and connectors. All ok. He then cleared the codes and road tested. Two codes came back -- P0418 - Air relay value -- and P0385 - crank sensor B. Cost to repair: $459 and $417 respectively. The tech also advised that this was just the beginning and the repairs might not solve the "service engine soon" issue. I also need brakes and tires to pass inspection and given the age and miles on the vehicle, I'm not sure it's worth it.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Nothing like everything going wrong at once....

    P1372 - crank position sensor A-B - 2

    P0449 - Fuel tank vent circuit fault
    Sounds like a loose gas cap?????

    P0443, P0418, P0412, p0410
    These are all related to the secondary air pump which is problematic in 3.5L engine. I think replacing the air pump will resolve all the problems. Here's a discussion on the topic. Pay close attention to post #10 and after. - 8

    P0385 - also refers to the crank position sensor

    Right now your car will not pass the emissions portion of the inspection. It looks like the replacing the crank position sensor and looking at the secondary air pump will solve those codes. I would try an independent shop instead of the dealer. You'll save some money.

    As far as brakes and tires, it sounds like you will need to replace those whether you keep the car or not. These items are safety issues. To me it is a no-brainer esp. if it is your daughter's car. All told you are probably looking at $1500 in costs. You have to determine if the rest of the vehicle is in good enough shape that the car will last at least another year without a major repair. I have 147k miles on my 2000 Intrigue.

    BTW, here is a list of OBDII codes for GM:
  • The air pump has two valves that can each need repair. One is near the air filter, and the other is under the coolant bottle. I've each one replaced, 10 months apart. I sure hope there is not a third one :D

    Get a mechanic to give you a parts list, and check with the part numbers. They are really Flow Chevrolet in No.Carolina. I just got a window regulator/motor from them for $250 to my door total, versus $365 plus tax at the dealer. The air pump valves are also significantly cheaper. There are other parts stores out there selling GM parts, usually dealers wanting to turn inventory and make some money. I googled oldsmobile parts and got several others out there.
    How many miles are on your intrigue? The 3.5L is a strong engine, and you see quite a few intrigues on ebay with 180K+ miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You have to be careful with the air pump valve. I've read that the valves can continue to fail if you don't change the secondary air pump. Also another good source for Intrigue parts is Ebay. Most of the folks that sell Intrigue parts are parts dealers. They are pretty reliable and cheap. I've purchased a side view mirror for $50 (includes shipping). $120 on

    Basically what we are trying to tell you is there are cheaper options then the dealer that can keep your costs on parts down.

    The engine is not the problem on this car. It's the transmission you have to worry about. Still you should easily squeak out 150k miles.

    Good Luck.
  • I've heard of frequent failures of the third-party window regulators, so I paid the extra dollars for GM. With the cost of 1.5 hours (120$), 2 failures and you've lost the savings.

    Can you point me to any discussions about the pump valves continuing to fail without replacing the pump? I might need some ammo for the dealer if it happens again.
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