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Dodge Avenger Starting and Stalling Problems

2

Comments

  • robwhitrobwhit Posts: 13
    I had same problem with my V6.It is the crank case sensor that is overheating and needs to be changed. It is not expensive at Discount Murrays and you can change it . Found below the battery held by one screw as it goes into the transmission housing. Follow the single wire going below battery. Leave felt spacer on end of sensor as this is your spacer to not let it touch the crank shaft.
    Hope this helped-I sold my 96 avenger last month for parts for $400 but had fun with it for 5 yrs.Let me know if this works to solve the problem.
  • witch sensor, crank case timeing,or preshure.im asssumeing timeing
  • I have a 1995 Dodge Avenger 2.0 and the alternator went out on it, so i bought one and put it in. When i went to start it all it will do is turn over. I have never had a problem with it firing up. It did sit for a couple days without a battery, and the front end was up in the air the day i was working on it. I only had an 1/8 tank a gas in it and someone said that maybe it lost fuel pressure. I tried just turning the key to Acc then off then on again but nothing. Now i was using my buddies Envoy to jump it before i replace the alternator and it started just fine, when we went to do it after the install NOTHING!! Can anyone help??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    You might verify the fuel pressure theory by squirting some starter fluid into the intake. If it fires right up for a second then yes, fuel is your problem, either pump or fuel pressure regulator, or a fuse or relay that controls same that got fried during the jump starts.
  • I have this same problem with my 97 2.0 avenger. Had the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires changed but it still does it. Not all the time, it seems to happen in cycles. It won't do it for 4-6 months and then you are driving along going 55 and it's like it loses power and dies 4 or 5 times in a month. Most of the time it starts right back up and sometimes you have to wait for up to an hour. This has been happening for the last 5 years but no one knows what is going on. The check engine light comes on when it does it and when we first got it checked it was a code that supposedly only a dealership could give us and the local one wanted to charge us just to look at it! My stubborn husband refused and has been suffering through it because it doesn't happen all the time and even went a year without a problem. I think I am going to have it rechecked at an auto store and see if they have info on it now and can figure out whats wrong since it happened again this morning to him. Anyone else have this problem and the check engine light come on? By the way it doesn't seem to be because you are coming to a stop or slowing down or while accelerating. It's just as you are driving along with your foot on the gas mostly at a steady speed. Sometimes you can make it miles before and sometimes barely a mile.
  • robwhitrobwhit Posts: 13
    I had same with my 96 v6 avenger-It was my crankcase sensor that was overheating and shuting down. Not sure where this sensor is on the 2L engine as on my v6 it was below the battery going into the crankdcase. Bought new one at Discount Murray's for very little and installed it myself in about 20 minutes. Let me know if this works.
  • Well now my avenger isn't starting at all. It died early this morning and is refusing to start back at all. This has happened once before 3 years ago and my husband took the battery cables off and poke around clueless for a bit and it started back.Sometimes when it started back for a sec it would idle really rough and miss like crazy then die out again. A sec later it would start up running beautifully. Does the crankcase do any of that? It would make sense something is overheating because it seems to do it in hotter weather rather than colder months. We just moved to TX from KY in Feb so the weather is far hotter here than where we were. Drove this car the whole way without incident (20 hour drive) and then shortly after making it to Austin it died and started right back up fine. Nothing for a month and then did it again and took 5 min to start. Fine since then even in 100 degree weather then today dies and refuses to start hours later! Before Feb the last time was July 2007. Is it an expensive part or hard to replace. Thanks to this great new city I moved to looks like if it's getting fixed anytime soon it will be me and my husband instead of a mechanic. * Side note: if ever in Austin and you break down even if in the emergency lane far over in no ones way the police will have you towed in an hour or less (took my husband to work and came back to have it towed to my house and it was gone 45 min later!) It was less than 5 miles from my house and they towed it to the other end of Austin????? Anyway just for that it cost 171.65 - then I had to pay to get it towed to my house for an additional amount. Huge Scam - if you request a hearing they charge you $27 plus court costs and since they say it's an officers judgement you are screwed. So, it's cheaper to pay the blood money and vent on a forum, lol!
  • I also forgot to mention, We tapped on the ASD several times from lightly to hard and it still doesn't start. It tries to turn over but doesn't.
  • nayrae89nayrae89 Posts: 2
    i have a 97 avenger. people were telling us that the fuel pump may have been broken because there was no sound coming from it when we tried to start the car. we bought another fuel pump but there was still no sound from that one. we thought it may have been the fuel pump relay because when we checked the cable that runs to the fuel pump and theres no power to it. we replaced the relay and nothing. the car tries to start but thers no spark either. i saw online it may be the asd relay but i have no idea where it is. can anyone help?
  • Absolutely, Under the hood at the very back against the firewall, right infront of where the steering wheel is, you will see a black box that is about an inch wide and looks to be 3 inches long. You tap on that when it stalls and if it starts it's it. The part is about 13 dollars, so, I have been told and it only solves the stalling for 6-8 months because there is another reason like a short that causes it to go bad that, from what I read, Dodge still doesn't know why it happens. If it doesn't start back like mine when I tapped on it and if the check engine light comes on you can check the codes yourself or read the posts from the beginning to get ideas. I tried to cover everything mine did before stopping. I just looked up the codes and got a bad camshaft sensor/ distributor code. Camshaft position sensor is 26 dollars. Hope this helps!
  • robwhitrobwhit Posts: 13
    If the other replies don't solve your problem my 96 V6 avenger had to have a new distributor assembly put in which is not hard-I got it at Discount Murrays cheap. It contains everything including the coil and camshaft sensor etc. Easiest way to determing if it is a fuel problem is to just spray quick start into intake and if it starts each time for a short while it is starving for fuel. If not it is an electrical problem as there is no spark. Let me know how things go.
  • I just wanted to say thank you, Rob. I sincerely appreciate your response. It gave me an idea of what problem I was looking at and that allowed me to find a place online that had the check engine codes while I was searching for the crankshaft sensor. (couldn't drive it anywhere to check) Mine happened to be the other one (Camshaft) but they both work together and cause the same kind of results. Actually, my next door neighbor's 96 v6 has the same problem! Small world.
  • nayrae89nayrae89 Posts: 2
    we tried tapping on the asd and it still doesnt start. we decided to take it to a shop rather than buying all sorts of parts and just guessing. so far the machanic says he has no idea why the car wont start.
  • hambone66hambone66 Posts: 5
    My name is Tony ,I am new to the avenger ,a friend that has a 99 told me about this site. I bought a 95 that was not running I was told pos side of battery grounded out on the hood. I did the following--replaced the brain, distributor, checked all fuses, replaced the relays on firewall--drivers side, turns over fine, but no spark or gas, if I spray starter fluid in throttle body sometimes it will act like it wants to start and other times it won't. Was told car was running and driving when it shut down. I can hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key. I also checked voltage to the injectors and I have voltage.I also put new plugs and wires in it.Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • robwhitrobwhit Posts: 13
    is it a V6 or 4 cyl? My V6 had a faulty crankshaft sensor that was cheap at Discount Murrays and it is located under battery going into the crank case. jPretty easy to change
  • hambone66hambone66 Posts: 5
    thanks for your reply It is a v-6 the guy at the auto part store said the crank shaft sensor was in the distrbutor I got a book and I see what you are talking about thanks ,My buddy has a 99 for sale for 1500 has a carbon fiber hood and over size wing 2 sets of rims and tires. but bady tranny just stoped working.
  • Just brought my 95 Dodge Avenger ES about a year ago. Just took it to Meineke about 2-3 weeks ago to have some things done.. brakes, tires, filter changes etc. Spent about 600 to keep my baby happy. Now, it wont even start. Went to turn the key in the ignition and all i hear is a faint click. Now, all the lights still work and so does the radio.. The car just wont turn over at all. My friends husband thinks its the starter.. I don't have a clue.. All I know is I can't afford to take it to the shop again. Can someone please help.
    Its a V6 , 2.5L :sick:
  • Hi,my name is Tony. Did you replace the battery?Have you checked to make sure the positive and negative cables are tight? If your friend thinks it's the starter try reaching underneath the car with a wrench or something similar and tap on the starter, the solenoid could be sticking. Good luck!
  • Hi Tony.. thanks for the reply. I have a new battery. I will check the positive and negative cables though and try tapping on the starter.. Hopefully it works.

    Thanks Again

    Tonya R.
  • haoslsehaoslse Posts: 1
    Hi, Tony and Hambone, I don't mean to hijack, but I read all through these posts. It seems I have the same problem as Hambone, or maybe that overheating thing. I just bought a 97 Avenger, 2.5 L. It died about 3-4 weeks ago, around 100 degree temps around here. So I dunno if it's a overheating thing or the Camshaft sensor. I am guessing what Tony said, and the Camshaft sensor, at least I hope that too. I have power to everything, just not starting. It does not even "TRY" to turn over. The people I bought it from were moving, and said it died about a month ago. Any ideas? I may head to get a camshaft sensor. All the sensors seem cheap. And to keep it running , every 6-8 months isnt a bad deal. gas is way more on my hemi...so I want to get this running. Any help would be MUCH appreciated..

    Thanks in advance!!
    ~Bill
  • I have a 98 dodge avenger that needless to say is a complete pile. It has been sitting for about 3 months. I had to put in a new distributor cap and replaced the spark plugs. It starts up but idles weird the rpms jump around and when you give it gas it sputters. Anybody have any ideas ive already missed a couple of days of school because of this retarded car
  • I'm having the same issueswith my 98 avenger 6 cylinder. I've replaced the plugs and wires, TPS, crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, and stripped and cleaned the throttle body and upper and lower intake plenum. I also ran seafoam through it, and removed and cleaned the fuel injectors. Also, replaced the fuel filter and removed and cleaned gas tank. It has a new battery, and I'm on my to replace map sensor and egr valve. Any ideas? I have a code scanner, but it doesn't read any codes. It just idles ok, then the rpms fluctuate and it dies. It dies quicker if I change gears, especially if I try driving it. Somehow it feels stronger with every sensor I replace, but I don't know if thats in my head...
  • Hi this is hambone my 95 was doing the same thing after I got it running though I had a vacum leak when I pushed on the gas some times it would sound like backfire throught the throttle body but it was a down strem oxygen sensor some of these avenger have 3 of them on my autoscanner came up Ho1 and Ho2 so I un pluged my down strem oxygn sensor now it never ran better had to turn down idel but I adj that to keep it running befor I found out problem runs good now I am replacing trnny now I hope this helps bouth of you haveing problems by the way the sensor is 55 dollars and if you think you have a vacum leak the best way to tell is to spray carb cleaner around intake and injectors if idel picks up you have a leak there car must be running when you spray try to get the code red first but you can try unpluging it first left on mine it is laying on the side of the a/c unit or around it good luck.
  • trexxttrexxt Posts: 5
    I've been having problems also with my Avenger ,when slowing down I have to keep my foot on the gas and the brake or the car shuts down then I have to start it up again because the avenger is a very unique car as I found out '' I had to find a really good mechanic but before I did I replaced a few things that different mechanics thought was the problem and none of the new parts made a difference so when it came down to it this new mechanic really new his stuff it turned out to be the EGR VALVE which can be ordered from chrsyler for $148.00
  • trexxttrexxt Posts: 5
    I've been having problems also with my Avenger ,when slowing down I have to keep my foot on the gas and the brake or the car shuts down then I have to start it up again because the avenger is a very unique car as I found out '' I had to find a really good mechanic but before I did I replaced a few things that different mechanics thought was the problem and none of the new parts made a difference so when it came down to it this new mechanic really new his stuff it turned out to be the EGR VALVE which can be ordered from chrsyler for $148.00
  • I wish someone could tell me why my car will start some days but not other days :confuse:
  • I've had it for less than a month, and tomorrow it's going back to the dealer for the third time for a stalling issue, one that seems consistent with other posters here. It's the 2.7L SXT version, loaded with all the 'goodies', but if I can't rely on it, they're not much good to me, eh?

    The EGR valve has been replaced already, and the 'flashing' of the ignition and throttle control computers. It stalled not even 100' from the dealership after all this, but I was almost late for work and couldn't go right back. Help?!?! :cry:
  • I have read what seems to be many similar problems but I can't pin down exactly what I'm encountering here. Any advice would be helpful.
    I've got a 95 Avenger 2.0 Manual. One day (happened to be a particularly cold day), the car would not turn over. It would act like it wanted to start, but would not. I waited for it to get above freezing, but still no dice. I also tried starting fluid but that did not help. Well, I figured it was the fuel pump and/or the fuel pump relay. I then paid more attention and noticed that the fuel pump did not run when I turned the ignition to on.
    I have replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay but I'm still getting the same symptom. The engine will turn over and I'm getting a spark, but it will not start. Fuel pump still does not engage.
    From the sound of it, it could be my ASD relay. Can you really replace that with any 5-pin 30amp relay? If so, then great, because the dealer wants almost $70 for it and I can probably get it at an auto parts store for $10-$15.
    I am not getting any check engine light codes. It flashes the normal 5 - 5. Anybody have any advice? I need to get this car moving again...it's my daily driver.
  • Hi I have a 95 but mine has a 2.5 it had the same problem but I was not getting any spark or it was very weak and fuel pump would not come on I replaced the crank shaft sincer fual pump started working and got good spark ? and I think it has 2 fuel pump relays
  • OK, just tried some more tests and it sounds like the fuel pump kicks on when the engine attempts to turn over...but normally it should come on when the key goes to "on". So, now I don't know what to think. I tried swapping out the ASD relay for the one that I replaced (old fuel pump relay), but I had the same result.

    Any ideas? :confuse:
  • pskochpskoch Posts: 3
    Well, I gave up and took it to the shop. They said the front O2 sensor went bad and thus flooded my engine and ruining the spark plugs. New plugs and a new front oxygen sensor and she is running like a champ. The fuel pump wasn't turning on because the engine was flooded (there was actually too much pressure).

    Hopefully this helps someone out.
  • I have a 2000 Dodge Avenger that has been stalling (more frequently it seems) while Im driving. While I am driving my tach drops down to zero, power seems to be on, engine seems to be on then all the warrning lights come when when it dies. After a more then 10 minutes it will start up again. It may stay running or it wil stall out again in a matter of minutes. The longer I let it sit, the longer it will run. Ive also noticed some white smoke coming out of the exhaust, which leaves me to believe a gasket problem. But would it stall my car out like it is? Ive also noticed my Coolant was practically empty when I checked one day. Anyone have any comment or suggestions? It would be appreciated.

    Thank you
  • I think my car needs the asd relay changed . There are 3 relay boxes on the firewall in front of the steering wheel. Does anyone know which one is the asd relay?
  • sure buddy if you think that is what the problem is because i just bought an avenger for 500 and nobody could figure out what was wrong with it so i towed it home and figured it out within 30 mins i put a new distributor , cap and rotor and it started up and ran like a champ , very good solid car no problems yet and that was a month ago
  • I swapped an 05' Dodge Neon 2.0L block with the original rebuilt head and componentry from the 96' Dodge Avenger back into the Avenger. Everything went great, but I have no power to the ignition coil, and I have to jump the ASD relay and fuel pump relay to get them to work. The relays had power to activate, but would not close.

    I had to take the harness for the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and route it from it's original location by the oil filter on the 96' block to behind the starter on the 05' block. I initially used the 05' CPS, to no avail, then swapped the 96' CPS to see if it would work with a 5mm spacer, but still nothing.

    The wiring harness to the relays had several wires with broken/open covers that appears to have been grounding out, and now have been seperated and repaired.

    I have a good ground lead to the coil and both wires from the PCM show good continuity.

    I have no fault codes with a Full diagnostic scan.

    The 120A alternator fuse was blown, and was replaced.

    Is the PCM fried? or what?
  • I pulled the motor, and swapped cranks, and drilled out the CPS hole on the 05' block and ground the face of the CPS mounting surface on the block down to match up with the original .025" sensor to target wheel spacing. After I cleaned it all and put the motor back together it runs like a charm, but just throws a P0351 code, which is in reference to the Primary circuit malfunction to the coil. I will wiggle some wires around or tell the guy he needs a coil. But aside from that it runs great!
  • dodge_95dodge_95 Posts: 1
    hey im having kind of the same problem with my 95 dodge avenger.. i was just wondering if you changed your spark plugs.. or the spark plug wires..
  • sleepygsleepyg Posts: 1
    bought it for 400 and was running but as soon as i pulled in the driveway it stalled on me i know it needed 2 injectors and a tune up it was missing and running rich injectors wer bad .....replaced the injectors and plugs also wires cap and rotor and the cps sensor still no start now i get no spark only thing i think it is is the distributor also tapped on the asd relay ....any help out there .please...need car running...... :cry:
  • ok so for about a year now my car hesitates and is sluggish when i accelerate. When i give it gas it hardley goes anywhere i replaced the cam sensor new computer and the fuel filter fuel pump cleaned my injectors new plugs wires coil pack and now it will jerk hard when im going at a descent speed liked it died and restarted please help if you can :sick:
  • tungktungk Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 2.0
    i replaced the pcm cam shart sensor the asd the cam position and yet it wont crank can you help please!?
  • soonerbsoonerb Posts: 9
    Have you made any progress?

    If not, pull a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on some metal on the engine. Have someone crank it over and see if there is spark and get back to me.
  • its a 95 veng with the 2.5l v6...

    and my girl is getting mad at it... so i need to fix it soon...

    it did the sputter then die... well i replaces the plugs and valve gaskets...(got the cuts to prove it...)

    well it stoped sputtering.. and misfiring... but now it just has no idle... none... i had to manually adjust the thottle body to like 10% and it just barley keeps the rpms up to 400...

    i was thinking the dizzy went out but i want to make sure...

    i also want to know why i would have a map code..(map sensor is to high)

    and a tps code...

    pls help me and my veng be one more veng always crusing on the road...

    there becomeing extinct :cry:
  • I have a 97 Avenger with a 2.5 that won't start. I'm not geting spark or fuel. It's my understanding that if the ASD were bad that it would only prevent spark. Because I'm not getting either spark or fuel I assumed that the problem is either the crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor or PCM. I was able to detrmine that the crank shaft sensor is good by using a volt meter while slowly turning the engine over by hand. It would alternate from 0 to 5vols and back as the engine rotated. That leaves either the cam shaft sensor, which in reality means replacing the distributor or the PCM. Is there a way to determine which it might be? If there is a flaw in my deduction or you have any suggestions please let m know.
  • Ok, I was wrong. The ASD does shut off the fuel as well as the spark. Bottom line, because the cam shaft sensor is part of the distributor I had to replace it. It is running again.
  • I replaced 3 asd relays and they start once then ckick
  • :cry: Can someone please help me before i throw this car out the window. A few weeks ago after i would drive the car for awhile it would hesitate when i tried to pick up speed and today I took a road trip out of town only 2 hours away and it started doing this again it was acting sluggish and would barely raise speed and when it got upto 40 mph then it was fine can someone please help me with this we have changed spark plugs and fuel filter does anyone have any ideas or have had the same problem...PLEASE HELP
  • I own a 99 dodge avenger2.5 ,you own one john and jim and stacey own one and they all are having the same issues . A poor electronic design we need to voice our problems thru the media, just like toyota vehicles, which are also lemons then its time to bring down dodge if they dont help us to resolve the issues with a product of a car that they designed Dodge Avengers along with all the other Lemons they designed i'm outraged at their poor craftsmanship and if we all speak out thru radio,television,talk shows, we will get there attention and unless they help us to deal with there poor designed products, then we together can help others to do research on all the internet complaints and make people aware of the Poor designs and numerous of Dodge deffects before they go and spend thousands $$$$$ on unneccesary Ripple affect Repairs.I feel for all the Dodge Owners Who's Vehiclses continue to stall in the middle of the road at stop signs and in the middle of an intersection I've almost gotten hit by other cars passing by while i"m trying to push my vehicle off the road Dodge is Just Waiting for a serious accident or a death to occur. Its's very sad and dangerous not knwing where or when the next stall out will occur. Peoples lives are on the line daily due to Poor Electronic Designes By Dodge... :mad:
  • pucknitpucknit Posts: 1
    So how do you replace the distributor?
  • rdeitrichrdeitrich Posts: 3
    Mark plug wires 1 through 6 to match the cylinder they go to then remove them from the distributor cap. Remove distributor cap. Remove rotor. Disconnect wiring harnesses, Remove nuts holding distributor on. Pull distributor out.
  • I turned my avenger into a race car. It runs really well for about 3 lapes then it will start spitting and sputtering then will stall. Can not get it started for about 20 min. then it will start right back up and run good. It idels good and runs good at home i can not get it to do it ive evan ran it up and down the road. ive changed the fuel pump and filter . have not checked any thang else yet was just hoping for some help.
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