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Toyota Land Cruiser

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    dianne4toyotadianne4toyota Member Posts: 343
    mgh:
    Paint on a step bar. Is this an after-market step bar? We have Running boards here in the USA... and if the step-bars are after-market items then you'd have to see your dealer for the warranty repair. I haven't experienced that problem with factory running boards yet.

    Dianne
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    mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    Dianne

    Yes, they are factory running boards. I have the flares also and they are the same color (Gray)The paint is pealing off on the back corner of the rear door. The truck came from Gulf Toyota somewhere in L.A. I am not sure.

    I just want to know if it can be repainted, replace, or if I have to live with the problem.

    Thanks for your promp respond.

    MG
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    dianne4toyotadianne4toyota Member Posts: 343
    The fender flare/matching running boards are a Gulf States port installed issue. I suspect that your dealer there will be happy to warranty it. :>
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    djlottdjlott Member Posts: 3
    I wanted to know if anyone has any information on overriding the DVD motion and brake lockout. We take a lot of long trips and it would be nice if my girlfriend and her child could watch movies on these long trips. Also, what is Toyota doing about the overpowering bass in the 2001? Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
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    lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    Has anyone ever had a problem with rain getting into the frame of the truck. There was a big storm a couple of days ago and there seems to be a lot of water accumulated on the passenger side of the truck. at first i thought the water was in the doors but it seems to be under the passenger seats. i just had the driver side fender flare changed with a 93 or 95 fender flare. it wasnt a perfect fit but close enough. i remeber when the shop was installing the flare they pulled apart some seals in the wheel well. i was thinking that that may be where the water came from and flowed to the passenger side somehow. my windshield does leak a little on the passenger side as well so i thought that might have been the cause as well.

    thanks in advance for any feedback
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    blisteringbassblisteringbass Member Posts: 4
    After driving my vehicle and shutting down the engine, a crackling metal sound can be heard as the vehicle cools down. Does anybody else have this problem? (2001 TLC) If so, what can be done about it? It drives me nuts.
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    ajrichajrich Member Posts: 1
    I'm in negotions for a 98 LC at this time. Are there any problems that I shold look for. It's got 53,000 miles and I've offered $30K. I know the owners very well so I know the car has never been in an accident nor was it off roader or beaten. ?? Will the stock radio/CD player control a CD changer? Thanks
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It's just your exhaust system cooling down. Don't worry about it and get used to it.

    :)
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    jam1000jam1000 Member Posts: 182
    My 2000 TLC makes the same crackling noise described in #811. Although I didn't ask about it, the foreman of the dealer's service shop once told me it was normal. I forget the explanation, but it sounded plausible.

    On the subject of noises, mine has in the last several days developed a new noise -- a popping sound (like the sound of popping those shipping packaging bubbles or a suction cup coming loose). The noise happens regularly but there does not seem to be a specific cause, such as bumps or potholes. I had initially thought it was the leather of the seats, but I'm now pretty sure that's not it. It sounds like it's coming from the ceiling/roof and/or inside one of the rear door panels. Anyone have any ideas what may be the cause and, more importantly, the cure?
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    hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    Make sure it has had the cat converter heat shields replaced (they will rattle sometimes if not - there is a TSB to this effect). Also, make sure the hitch wiring harness was replaced (under recall). After that, ask for and check the maintenence records carefully. Not just for regular oil changes but for diff, tranny, and coolant changes. Also, at that mileage, the stock Michelins are just about done with their life. If not already replaced, get them to do that first - with an AT tire if you intend to do much off-roading.

    Stock radio will control a Toy CD changer. I don't know about after market apps though.

    HiC
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    mharris7mharris7 Member Posts: 1
    Hello:

    I am currently in the market for a 1997 THC - I have come across one for sale with under 40,000 miles I/ no dents or dings - Inside looks good, however I noticed a few interior marks & the side door leather looked to be cracking/crinkling, don't think owner took great care of it - I think I can talk dealer down to $24k with 3 year full warranty - Is it worth it?

    Thanks!
    Matt

    AS- anything else I need to know about the 1997 THC, I appreciate it.
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    virg7virg7 Member Posts: 7
    The one thing that caused me to get a newer model was the lack of rear air in the '98 model. I have a '97 Tahoe with no rear air and it is a problem for the second row. I imagine the third row will get next to nothing.
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    cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    I sympathize with those who get unusual rattles. I just had one in my Tundra. It was driving me nuts. At first, it seemed tied to the bass notes on my stereo. It got worse and worse. Finally, I took the door panel apart. When I did, a penny dropped out from under the door panel. It seems there was a gap between my map holder and the inner part of the door. I hate pennies and toss them everywhere. It seems one had fallen into my map pocket and the rigors of off roading allowed it to work through a seem into my door.

    I don't suggest that this is the cause of all rattles, but it does illustrate that the "fix" is often easy.
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    mapconsultant3mapconsultant3 Member Posts: 8
    The other day I was watching for the fuel warning light to come on. When it did, I went directly into a gas station. The tank accepted 21 gals exactly. So on my TLC, there appears to be 4.4 gals in reserve. Hope this helps others who hate to stop for gas as much as I do.
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    yaoxyaox Member Posts: 14
    I just get a quote $28,500 for 98 landcruiser, 73000 milage, excellent condition, fully loaded, light green. Please give me a feeling cheap or expensive. Thanks.
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    jam1000jam1000 Member Posts: 182
    I can't imagine how a penny got into my ceiling :).
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, better that than the live turtle of urban legend fame I guess.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
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    ac796ac796 Member Posts: 3
    Yes, Toyota knows there is a PROBLEM, HOUSTON!!
    We have an '01 LC and have had the boomy base problem solved. We asked our dealer to order the replacement amp through JBL. (Toyota did not have an order number, yet). They did and it fixed ours!!
    To all with a 2001 LC--order this through your dealer!!! (Through JBL !!)
    part # 86280-0W060-C
    Toyota ordered ours and it took less than 10 days to get the part! SOUNDS GREAT!!!

    PS- the dealer was not aware of the problem, but the district rep was and so is Toyota. :)
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    djlottdjlott Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the part # and info on the bass fix. Has anyone heard of a way to override the lockout on the DVD motion and brake detector? Any info is appreciated. And please, no lectures on safe driving. Refer to post #809. Thanks.
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    scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    There was another person (aside from myself) wanting to know how to bypass the DVD lockout who posted a while back.

    Post #620 gives some hints...apparently, and I am only guessing, the others wanting to know the same thing were emailed as to how to bypass the lockout.

    I would guess that "grounded" is the word missing from the blank on post #620, but because I do not own a LC (yet), I can't tell you for sure, nor can I tell you what the "other" circuit is.

    When I do purchase a LC, I will post how to do it (there is no liability for posting such information). If you somehow receive this info as the others apparently did, kindly post it, or email it to me and I'll post it with a disclaimer and waiver of liability to any and everyone who contributed to the information (*whew*).
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    darby124darby124 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know a website where one can check to see if there are any TSB's applicable to a vehicle?
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    scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/index.html


    OR


    www.alldata.com


    there are many others too.

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    grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    My 91 fj80 has 90,000 on the clock and the vehicle has chewed through three sets of hub seals on the front. The dealer replaced the original set as grease was leaking all over the front assembly, then the replacements leaked, and another set were installed. However they are leaking grease all over the front hubs and the grease has soaked the front brake systems and created a braking and fire hazard. Its clear the dealer, hasn't a clue.
    Any one else can give advice. I have heard that I might need a new spindle or something, with a cost of $3800 mentioned which will break the bank.
    By the way how and where do you get the TLCA discounts on parts.
    Thanks in anticipation.
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    lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    Could anyone tell me if it would be bad to drive in H gear with the differential locked at all times? Right now, when i have the differential unlocked there is slippage in the differential which causes a clunking when i take my foot of the gas and when i shift gears from a standstill. when i lock the differential the problem goes away. i would like to know if there would be any long term problems driving full time with the differential locked. i would think that gas mileage would suffer (i only am getting 10MGP and gas is over $2 here in San Fran)

    thanks in advance for any feedback
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    drpimper212drpimper212 Member Posts: 8
    you are asking for trouble by trying to drive w/ diffs locked. You will put axles in a bind while trying to turn. try making a u-turn in a parking lot w/ diffs locked. you'll see what I mean.
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    maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Driving with the diff locked will help you get your LC inverted. If that's the way you prefer it, go for it.

    :)

    Disclaimer: don't be an idiot, save the diff lock for off road.
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    ewmsewms Member Posts: 2
    I hope this is an appropriate ? I am in the market for a 97 LC I've noticed that many 97 LCs are purchased from auctions by dealers as previously leased SUVs. Just wondering how this plays into negotiations. Do dealers buy these autos at deep discounts thus are more willing to negot. as compared to normal trade-ins, etc...??Thanks?
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Auction cars are "wholesale", and usually auctions are open only to licensed dealers. Cars sell cheap, and the dealer may pass the savings along if not much work has to be done on the rig picked up at auction.

    Check out this discussion:

    Why Edmunds and Other Sites Ignore Auctions

    I saw that one 1997 Landcruiser went for US$20,100 within the last month. No idea of the condition, etc.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
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    dianne4toyotadianne4toyota Member Posts: 343
    The 97's and back LCs are cheaper... a "way back of book car" as we dealers say because they have the old 6 cylinder in them... vs. the V8's that the newer 98 and up were imported with. The market for them may strengthen soon with the fule prices outta sight ::sigh:: again though.

    Dianne
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Was my little off-the-cuff remark about auctions mostly correct?

    Do the California dealers come up for the Idaho Auto Auction? It sounds like one of the biggest in the Pacific Northwest....

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
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    dianne4toyotadianne4toyota Member Posts: 343
    There's a weird thing going on right now, as we all are noticing... a serious shortage of good trades. Even high dollar ones.

    The auction merely gives dealers a better selection of cars to choose from other than just waiting for trades, and frankly, the stuff I have seen in SoCal for used is bringing a lotta bucks. The lease banks are smart -- they are creating a demand for their good, low mile trades. :D

    Dianne
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    mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    Dianne:

    I use to drive a 97 TLC and it consumes the same gas as my V8 TLC But it was slower from 0 to 45 mph.

    MG
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    joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Are you talking about the axle seal or the hub seal? The deal is that the axle seals (or birfield seals as some call them) eventually fail from the front axle turning all the time, and gear lube from the axle housing leaks into the steering knuckle and eventually into the hub.


    If you're simply pulling off the hub and replacing the hub seal, that's not going to be enough. You need to strip the front end down to the knuckle housing itself and replace the axle seal as well as repack the birfield, knuckle bearings, and the knuckle housing cavity with moly grease. It's an expensive item from the dealer as it's lots of labor. It's not hard to do at all yourself. $3800 is unthinkable for a new spindle.


    Have you bent the housing with a hit to the front end? Anyway, tell us more about what exactly was replaced each time the "repair" was done.


    You need to join the TLCA to get the 25% discount. http://www.tlca.org


    Join the 80 series mailing list:

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/80scool

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    joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    The clunk is normal for an 80 series, but it can be alleviated. Often the tranny kickdown cable needs adjusting, and the front hub flange and birfield have play unless they have been regularly greased. The splines eventually wear down, and you get more and more play until you need to replace the birfield and flange.

    You need to do some tuning up to get better mileage, but many folks with early 80's do get around 10-12MPG.

    Don't drive on hard surfaces with the center diff locked unless you remove the front drive shaft. You can get a kit from Marks 4wd in Oz that will give you part-time 4wd. You then install manual hubs on the front. It will save you 1-2 MPG and not be worth the cost just for gas savings. It saves wear on the front end, too.
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    joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    The prices for fzj80's have really come down in the past year. They typically get worse gas mileage than the UZJ100. Don't have Inferior Front Suspension though ;). I may get my a '97 to match my '93 someday.
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    drumbolddrumbold Member Posts: 22
    My TLC was manufactured in March so I thought that the amplifier fix might have made it to the assembly line, I was wrong. When I took the truck to a local dealership, the service manager looked at me as if I was from another planet and said that the stereo sounded fine to him. That night I went into the Owners Services area of the Toyota web site and posted a message that contained the dealership, the service manager's name, the problem, and how I was treated. The next morning I got a call from the service manager. He apologized and said the amplifier was on order. He went on to say that a service bulletin is being printed that addresses the amplifier problem.
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    dianne4toyotadianne4toyota Member Posts: 343
    Knowledgeable dealers, such as myself... are taking the cars in as they land and doing the amp replacement BEFORE the cars are sold as new. Whatta concept, eh? ;>

    Dianne
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    coolmatt44coolmatt44 Member Posts: 54
    Hello all. I always keep one SUV (for long trips, and to get through snow in the New York winter.)I had a LX470 for a little while, but (and yes I have a pattern of this.) about three days after I bought it, I thought I should get an RX300, and save the money. Well now I am unhappy again (only about 6 months latter) with my choice. I would like something larger, with some of the higher end options that the RX doesn’t have. My Lexus dealer is usually very good with prices, and he said to expect about 58k for a loaded LX. Is it worth the 5-6k premium? Thanks in advance.
    Matt
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    mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    Coolmatt44

    TLC is overpriced because is made in Japan and LX470's are the same with a few more accessories to compete with the American market options.
    It is really your choice they both drive the same regardless of what people say. (Both of these trucks are worth the price if you compared to a Land Rover. Remember you will have the ultimate luxury rock-climbing machine.
    Note:
    You are going to be loosing lots of money trading your RX300 anyway so buy whatever your heart desires.

    Regards,

    MG
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    coolmatt44coolmatt44 Member Posts: 54
    Thanks MG, I have been thinking about it, and they are priced so close, I mean CLOSE. I could get a fully loaded LX for only like 2k more than a fully loaded land cruiser, and though I'm not one for status, why not get a more prestigious car?I have not made a final deccicion but I am heavily leaning twords the Lexus.
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    rewyllysrewyllys Member Posts: 24
    Dear Coolmatt44,

    Yes, the Lexus LX470 is a Toyota LandCruiser jazzed up a bit, but some of the jazzing-up appeals quite directly to me. The extras over the TLC that I especially like are: driver-seat memory for 2 drivers, including side-mirror adjustments (my wife is a foot shorter than I, so this is a major convenience for us); Adaptive Variable Suspension, which lets one adjust the ride quality and also adapts automatically to road conditions; and Adjustable Height Control, which not only can let the car get over obstacles but also can let the driver and passengers get in and out more easily. (At 6'4", I can slide in and out sideways very easily at the normal height setting, but the low height setting is a definite advantage for my 90-year-old mother-in-law.)

    In addition to these specific features, the Lexus SUV has many nice, luxurious touches, such as superb soundproofing, walnut steering wheel, etc., at least some of which are not available on the TLC.

    FWIW, I'm very happy with my 2001 LX470 (including the Navigation system option).

    For a difference of $2k, I wouldn't hesitate for one second. And not because the Lexus might be more "prestigious" in the eyes of some people, but simply because the extra comfort and luxury more than justify the $2k in my opinion.

    Ron Wyllys
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    nota4renota4re Member Posts: 54
    In the real world, the price difference is really $7K to $8K between these two vehicles. As such, the differences becomes harder to justify... becasue they come at a premium price. Here in Southern California, you can buy a Land Cruiser for approx. straight invoice. For a $58K window sticker TLC (no nav) invoice is approx $50K, so figure you're out the door for $55K. The best deal I could find for a friend of mine two weeks ago for a 470 was $1K over invoice (again, no NAV) which put him out the door for $62K and change. These prices are readily available in SoCal - but I suspect you can get the same or similar in other parts of the country. Of course, Dianne has mentioned before that she can ship...
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    lc2000lc2000 Member Posts: 33
    How many tow hooks are there supposed to be on a 2000-2001 LC? Mine came with two on the front and one on the back (right rear). There is an obvious place for a second rear tow hook, but the hook is missing. Just curious.
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    coolmatt44coolmatt44 Member Posts: 54
    thanks all, I will be ready in about a weak so I'll stay in touch.
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    mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Lexus owners are going to love it when it comes time to replace the air-suspension. Shocks for an LC run $50 to $80 a pop, depending on Bilstein or OEM Toyota. I don't know, but based upon other vehicles that have air suspension, I'm guessing it will cost about $400-$500 PER a shock, plus installtion, to replace when they wear out. Just my opinion: it's hell-of-a price to pay for the occasional ability to raise and lower the vehicle a couple inches.
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    nrossinrossi Member Posts: 47
    Well,

    After a researching various SUV's I have landed on the LC. It is, for my needs, just the right size. Bigger then a 4Runner, smaller then the Seq. The only problem is the $$$, so I found a used 98 with around 33,000 mls for about $36,000. This sounds good to me, but now I need to find out a bit about that years LC. Can anyone fill me in on any problems with that year? I know it was the 1st year of the V8. Also, what are some of the features of the 4WD system, etc?

    Thanks
    Nick
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    hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    Read some prior postings on this board and you will find things to look out for. Only "New Model" glitchs I am aware of are the Cat heat shield that should be replaced under TSB and towing wire harness replaced under recall.

    The 98 and 99 have a different AWD system than the 2000+. In 98/99 there was no traction control or VSC. Center diff lock was standard and a rear diff lock was optional (but I think most had it). Also, no Nav system and no rear AC. I live in So Cal and never missed the lack of rear AC though. Also, my kids who ride back there (in the third seat) can and will complain about everything but so far lack of their own AC blower has not made the list of daily insults.

    Enjoy,

    HiC
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    chainsaw4130chainsaw4130 Member Posts: 7
    I have a '99 LC that does have rear Heat/AC.
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    hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    Sorry, I should have been clearer but nrossi is looking at a 98.

    HiC
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    hudson6hudson6 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 95 FJ80 with 95k miles. The issue is a occasional thud while taking off from a stop. I have tried to isolate it, uphill, downhill, quick stop, slow stop.... thus far I have been unable to narrow it down. It is not a severe problem more so an annoying one to someone who wants nothing but the best for his baby.

    I am not really familiar with the LC full time system, I assume in this system there are many parts working constantly (as opposed to my 83 Chewy K10 PU who's front wheels have power only when selected). Because of all those working parts in my AC is there "play" built in to reduce wear or the potential for binding?

    What are parts that can wear and are there ways I can systematically check them to narrow my search?

    I have checked the kick down cable adjustment and this seems in order; additionally, I have experienced no odd shifting at low or high speeds.

    I have heard the term Birfields, but been unable to determine exactly what part this is (my Haynes manual does not use this term), if these may be the problem, exactly what do the parts look like?

    I do not think the problem is a slip in the trans, from a stop if I let off the brake the truck will start to roll forward, sometimes when I give it gas I can feel it "thud" at 5-10mph. Could this not be drive train but an occasional hesitation in the motor?

    Finally, on the occasion that it does happen, that is it- no more problems. The truck cruises right along up to highway speeds with not so much as a shimmy.

    I may be just paranoid but want to fix it if it has the potential to get worse and take anything out with it.

    Thanks in advance
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