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For the do-it-yourselfers; what kind of oil filter are you using? On my 1984 TLC I almost always used a OEM Toyota filter. I got a zillion miles from the engine too. Now on my 2000 TLC I will probably do the same. And you? Also on anti-freeze; the Toyota brand with all the correct additives (?) is about $17.00 a gallon. Whew! That's a far cry from Prestone at roughly $6.00 a gallon (and cheaper on sale). Is the Toyota brand worth it? I have a lot of faith in the OEM parts/supplies. kurt
There are a few diehards who, like myself, believe in stock Toyota parts and feel the Toyota Red antifreeze is the best. It is silica free, and the very best quality you can buy - period. For my money however, this is one of the rare exceptions when I don't think it's worth it for a stock part. I use the 5yr/100,000 mile stuff, but change it out annually. I feel changing the fluid out is more important than putting such high cost antifreeze in there.
I got a 2001 LX470 instead of a Land Cruiser because I could get one for $10K off of MSRP. Fine. But what about service? The Lexus dealership strongly recommended that the transmission fluid, transfer case oil and front and rear differential fluid be changed at my 15,000 mile service.
I said to go by the book so instead of charging me $460 (or so) they only charged about $85 (plus another $100 for replacing two A/C air filters, which they weren't going to do).
So now my paperwork says "Cust. refused 15K service" which means I refused their service (as opposed to what Toyota says to do).
Question: For non-heavy duty operation, how often should the transmission fluid be changed? The book says to inspect every 15K miles but doesn't seem to ever say to replace.
I like the features on the Lexus but I don't like dealing with the static I get from the service salesmen. Maybe I'll take it to the Toyota dealership that's three miles away for service in the future.
The 2003 LX470 towing capicity is only rated at 5000 lbs. this year but the Land Cruiser is still rated at 6500. Funny.
Expect the same high pressure for unneeded services at the Toy dealer. They make a bundle on this, and, for the most part, the service writers get a commission when you bite.
At 30 k they will try to sell you fuel injection cleaning, throttle body cleaning, power steering flush, etc., etc. All unnecessary at that mileage unless you abuse the heck out of your car and are running Pemex 85 octane gas.
Just keep your receipts and be sure what you have done keeps pace with the factory's recommended service intervals. If you don't, and have a problem (unlikely on this vehicle), it may require some legwork to get warranty coverage.
That comment about you refusing is for this reason: The service manager at a modern dealership gets paid to increase the profit per customer and the service writer (who wrote that) is under his or her thumb. The SM gets monthly statistics on how many customers accept their added service level and when he looks at the paperwork there had better be some indication the service writer tried to sell you the extra stuff. Just like at McDonald's (Would you like an apply pie today, sir?).
I'd stick with factory intervals on all items. The code words are "Please service my vehicle for the miles it has and the FACTORY's recommended services, NOT your dealership's recommendations. Thank you."
In the end, I did get exactly what the book said to do. I'm still a little confused over the factory's recommendation for transmission service - it's basically inspect every 15K (but never an automatic replacement). Unlike a lot of Toyota products, it still uses Dexron II (or III).
I'm thinking 30K miles is a lot more reasonable service interval for the trans. fluid. I don't think I'll ever go back to that dealership.
The reason for the inspection is simply to be sure the fluid level's topped up properly, since that's far and away the #1 reason auto trannies die - low fluid. Unless you tow, or offroad a lot, there's no need to change it at 30k. Believe me, even the factory intervals are designed to be a bit conservative, so short changing things like that could easily be a waste of your money.
I have gotten over 50K miles on the OEM Michelin LTX M/S tires. I have owned the truck for two years only. Can anyone recommend an alternative to this tire that they have preferred. Most of my driving is on paved roads. As we approach winter in the NE however these Michelins do not appear to be a valid winter tire.
Try the new Michelin Cross Terrain. It's an updated version of the venerable LTX and improves on many aspects including winter conditions. Not the cheapest, but as always, Michelin tires are the best and worth the bit of extra. These are one of the few available in your exact stock factory size, also.
Has anyone been using a Bridgestone Winter Dueler DM-Z2 tire? Or a BF Goodrich All Terrain? I'm looking for a rain/snow tire. I',m in the Seattle, WA.,USA area and mostly drive my TLC up to the mountains to go skiing. We're usually heavily loaded with 6 people and associated gear. On my prior TLC, a 1984 FJ60, I always used the BF Goodrich All Terrains. That tire on that vehicle was the best combo I have ever driven in snow. Thanks! Kurt
I recently purchased a Certified 2000 LC from my neighborhood dealer. At the closing I was informed that they had installed a single new tire (front passenger). The remaining tires have about half of their tread remaining. On an earlier post I saw that it is recommended to replace all four tires simultaneously because of the full time 4-wheel drive. Is this going to cause future problems with handling or overstressing suspension, etc.
IIRC, with the CPO program from Toyota, you could ask the dealer to change virtually any component you're unhappy with; this includes brake pads, tires, battery...
I have run both BFG AT,s and Bridgestone winter Dueler DM-Z2 tires. For ice and snow the DM-Z2 tires are so vastly superior as to be in a different league. I live in Fernie, British Columbia where at town level, we average 18 feet of snow per winter. The DM-Z2,s drive on ice and snow, like you are on rails. The braking ability on ice is amazing. I truely believe that if everyone drove this type of tire in the winter, the number of accidents would drop by half. The main downside is the soft rubber and highly sipped tread wear alot quicker on dry pavement, so they cannot be run during the summer. This necesitates two sets of tires. This is what I do, and the increased safety and traction is well worth it. Once you try a true ice and snow radial you will never go back. Regards, Sean.
I had a 2.5 inch lift that I upped to a 5 inch lift on Old Man Emu springs and components, Never was disapointed, Had a ARB with a Waren on the front, Lockers front and rear, and 33´s on on my 94 FZJ-80, coupedncal, the reason us Off roaders lift our cars is because it gives us better aproach angles on Obsticals, also we can clear mor objects, but some people think that a Lift kit will make it so you can get over anything, well you still have to worry about your differentials, wich is where tyre size helps, lager tyres, = more ground clearance and more differential clearance. Stock FZJ-80's have about 8.5 inches from the lowest part of the Axle down. For your first Upgrades... Snap straps High lift, chains, and cables. I know they are not bolt ons or anything but in the absence of a Winch (which cost alot) they are a cheap alternative and will save you from abandoning your rig along the way once in a while. Also never go out alone, find a local 4Wheel drive club and get involved, they can help you with your rig modifications and will have regularly planed rides usualy. www.sleeoffroad.com is a great site that has everything you will ever need for your rig, Christo is a nice guy and will help you with what you need.
Overall, you have a great Off-roading machine, they are extreamly capable in stock form, you are going to have a great time, and take my advise. Do one upgrade at a time, and enjoy each step along the way. It will be a great experiance. -Mike
I just bought a '97 'Collector's Ed' LC. I was shopping around for a while and I could not determine any difference other than cosemetic between the 2 trim options.. is that right? The two tone seats in the 40th seem to be the only real difference....
No question - Bridgestone Winter Duelers. Another positive about the tire is wear. We did not have that much snow in the NYC area last winter. Had the tires on from Nov-Mar. Did a lot of driving. And did NOT use up the tires. Some winter compounds are soooo soft any dry road driving just chews them up.
As for "regular" rubber, don't overlook the Dunlop available in the correct size (can't remember the name right now - one of the two standard issue tires on this rig). While the Michelins are more ride-oriented, the Dunlops are more handling-oriented. For as much as you can "throw around" a 5000+lb vehicle, the Dunlops allow for more aggressive driving without fear of rollover. They make the truck downright sporty! Now, with larger factory rims and lower profile tires on the '03s, I guess we'll be able to autocross in our TLCs!!!
I'm thinking about buying an earlier Landcruiser with the 4.5 I6. Does anybody tow a camp trailer with one of these or have any thoughts on it? Or should I just step up to a 98 or a Sequoia and not worry about it?
I pull a 19' deep vee boat that has a small block chev V8, that weighs about 3000 lbs. This summer I pulled it over 1500 miles across mountainous British Columbia. No problem. Just remember to drive with the overdrive OFF. I have also pulled a dual axle flatbed with a dodge durango on it. It pulled well, but the going over mountain passes was slow. In short if the trailer is not too heavy the 4.5l6 performs well. If it is very heavy, best to install a TRD supercharger kit or a Safari intercooled turbocharger kit. Regards, Sean.
I tow a 6000lb boat trailer routinely in the mountain passes of Idaho, Montana and Washington with my 4.5 Cruiser. Have also towed to Maine and back (10,000) mile trip.
If you're looking for a tow vehicle, look elsewhere as there are a lot of tow-specific vehicles available in the US. But if you want a high quality world reknowned and overbuilt SUV that can handle towing as well, the Cruiser will do fine. You won't be the first over the pass, but you'll never overstress this overbuilt drivetrain.
Went to see the 03 TLC loaded with aluminum wheels, curtain and side airbags, navigation system, roof rack and runnnig boards. MSRP 58,500 Dark Blue with gray interior.
My 00 TLC has all the options with only 21k miles. Changed oil every 5k with mobil 1. Dealer giving me 35k for mine and no discount for the 03. Calling them tomorrow to see if they will discount the 03 four thousand and 35k for mine.
Be careful, 18" rims may look nice, but the ride may suffer! In addition, you are at more risk for damaging the rims. Braking may change due to increase weight of rims. Just something to consider. Personally, 17" is the biggest i will ever go. I have 16" on my '02 4Runner, which is just fine.
Comparing the loaded 2003 to what a broker would sell it for. www.carsdirect.com shows you what a broker would sell your particular model for in your area. Not going though a saleman but presenting an offer to the sales manager (maybe at a different dealership) should get you your truck. The saleman won't budge on price if he thinks you've already decided to buy a 2003 there. He doensn't want to lower his $1500 commission.
I got $10,000 off retail on a similar vehicle by offering the broker price to the person in charge. Good luck.
Never thought I'd consider one, but the local Toyota dealer just got one in on trade with 151,000 miles. They are asking $9850. It appears to be in good shape with below average wear for a car that is 10 years old.
Edmunds says that average retail is about $7900 but the NADA and KBB are both much higher (around $11,500). Does this sound like a good deal?
What kind of maintainence issues should I look out for? Tahnks in advance for any replies!
Other than being a gutless wonder, the only known defect with the fj80 is the EFI relay. Ask the dealer if the relay wiring has been updated. IMO the price is too high, but your local market is the indicator.
When for a few grand more you can get a '93. That year, the Cruiser got a modern and more powerful twin cam engine to replace an aging but bulletproof motor, 4 wheel discs, a third row seat, ABS, 16" wheels, and a long list of other improvements.
the '93 was much better in all respects than the previous gen...although the 4.5L was still kind of gutless...LC did not get real guts until the current 4.7L 8-cyl came in around '98.
But if all you want is an old truck to beat up, maybe take off road with a few mods, that '92 sounds perfect.
Price is roughly in line with what it would cost near me here in CA.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
have an optional rear cage, something that fits behind the second row seats to keep the dof in the back, but still giver her the freedom to move around the rear???
I've narrowed the field (and budget) down to a couple of choices in the San Diego area. Given that I can't afford the '98s with a V8, I have located a few nice, low mile 97 TLCs and LX450s. I'm leaning towards the LX, for about the same money at about 60,000 miles.
Anyone care to comment on the options available on the LX that are different than the TLC? Do the '97 LX450's have the active suspension? If yes, any thoughts on reliability? I know it was a disaster on the Infiniti Q45's, from a cost to maintain perspective. How is it with the LX?
Do the LX450's have the same options on locking the diff's?
the best bet for dog containment is a suitably-sized, side-entry metal or coated metal crate. it's the safest for you and your passengers. i've tried several of the verticle barriers on multiple suvs and find that they all tend to "give-in" when challenged or inadvertantly bumped by a dog. if the barrier should fall down while in motion, you've got a huge mess on your hands and the potential for injury. as you probably know already, there are tons of good mailorder sources for dog supplies. most have much better prices than your local pet superstore and actually stock what you need.
The Q's active suspension was a completely different animal - very complex and expensive to maintain as you say. The LX450 does not have an equivalent, it mimics the LandCruiser's steel coil springs all around with a slightly lower (softer) spring rate. That is the extent of the suspension differences between LX/Cruiser.
As for options, the best thing for you to do would be look in the used car section on this sight for details on each model, or go to Kelley Blue Book and do the same (kbb.com). The lockers are available on the LX, however.
One more question. Did I read in some of the past posts that the locker option is basically installing the dash switch; implying that the servos and wiring are present in all '98 TLC's and Lexus 470's?
BTW spent the afternoon driving '97 and 98 TLCs. Kind of liked the V8/independent suspension on a '98. The '97s all seemed ok, but for 3-4k more, the 98 was appealing. Definitely seems like a buyers market in So. Cal. at the moment.
Has anyone driven both of these SUV's that can shed some light on advantages/disadvantages? My current lease will be running out in a few months and I am starting to do some basic research. I will likely buy either a 2002 Sequoia or a 2001 TLC. I like the size of the TLC for around town, but feel the Sequoia will be better for trips. My choice is the TLC but my wife prefers Seq.(The SUV will be for her.) Does the TLC have sufficient cargo capacity for a family of 4 on week long trips to the beach? Can anyone give their opinion on the ride quality on long trips? It is very difficult to make a decision on a few mile test drive. Any opinions are greatly appreciated!
Comments
kurt
Steve, Host
IdahoDoug
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/mostwanted/2003/77229/article.html
Steve, Host
I said to go by the book so instead of charging me $460 (or so) they only charged about $85 (plus another $100 for replacing two A/C air filters, which they weren't going to do).
So now my paperwork says "Cust. refused 15K service" which means I refused their service (as opposed to what Toyota says to do).
Question: For non-heavy duty operation, how often should the transmission fluid be changed? The book says to inspect every 15K miles but doesn't seem to ever say to replace.
I like the features on the Lexus but I don't like dealing with the static I get from the service salesmen. Maybe I'll take it to the Toyota dealership that's three miles away for service in the future.
The 2003 LX470 towing capicity is only rated at 5000 lbs. this year but the Land Cruiser is still rated at 6500. Funny.
At 30 k they will try to sell you fuel injection cleaning, throttle body cleaning, power steering flush, etc., etc. All unnecessary at that mileage unless you abuse the heck out of your car and are running Pemex 85 octane gas.
My .02, anyway.
hiC
That comment about you refusing is for this reason: The service manager at a modern dealership gets paid to increase the profit per customer and the service writer (who wrote that) is under his or her thumb. The SM gets monthly statistics on how many customers accept their added service level and when he looks at the paperwork there had better be some indication the service writer tried to sell you the extra stuff. Just like at McDonald's (Would you like an apply pie today, sir?).
I'd stick with factory intervals on all items. The code words are "Please service my vehicle for the miles it has and the FACTORY's recommended services, NOT your dealership's recommendations. Thank you."
IdahoDoug
I'm thinking 30K miles is a lot more reasonable service interval for the trans. fluid. I don't think I'll ever go back to that dealership.
IdahoDoug
The aforementioned wheels are not available as they intend to rebuild this vehicle. I'd hate to be the schmoe who buys it.
IdahoDoug
IdahoDoug
thanks
Kurt
Frank.
Regards,
Sean.
Overall, you have a great Off-roading machine, they are extreamly capable in stock form, you are going to have a great time, and take my advise. Do one upgrade at a time, and enjoy each step along the way. It will be a great experiance.
-Mike
Is one more desireable than the other?
As for "regular" rubber, don't overlook the Dunlop available in the correct size (can't remember the name right now - one of the two standard issue tires on this rig). While the Michelins are more ride-oriented, the Dunlops are more handling-oriented. For as much as you can "throw around" a 5000+lb vehicle, the Dunlops allow for more aggressive driving without fear of rollover. They make the truck downright sporty! Now, with larger factory rims and lower profile tires on the '03s, I guess we'll be able to autocross in our TLCs!!!
Regards,
Sean.
If you're looking for a tow vehicle, look elsewhere as there are a lot of tow-specific vehicles available in the US. But if you want a high quality world reknowned and overbuilt SUV that can handle towing as well, the Cruiser will do fine. You won't be the first over the pass, but you'll never overstress this overbuilt drivetrain.
IdahoDoug
Steve, Host
Anybody no of anyone looking for a '00 burgundy TLC w/ 39K on the odo...Loaded!! Only option missing is the Nav. package.
Been fun!!
Dark Blue with gray interior.
My 00 TLC has all the options with only 21k miles.
Changed oil every 5k with mobil 1. Dealer giving me 35k for mine and no discount for the 03. Calling them tomorrow to see if they will discount the 03 four thousand and 35k for mine.
What are you thoughts?
I am surprised a three year old with only 21K has already depreciated almost 40%. i would say push for getting $39K for your trade!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
tidester, host
More off-roading pics:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29
I got $10,000 off retail on a similar vehicle by offering the broker price to the person in charge. Good luck.
ace
Edmunds says that average retail is about $7900 but the NADA and KBB are both much higher (around $11,500). Does this sound like a good deal?
What kind of maintainence issues should I look out for? Tahnks in advance for any replies!
See this link for details:
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/efi_relay.html
IdahoDoug
But if all you want is an old truck to beat up, maybe take off road with a few mods, that '92 sounds perfect.
Price is roughly in line with what it would cost near me here in CA.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
IdahoDoug
Anyone care to comment on the options available on the LX that are different than the TLC? Do the '97 LX450's have the active suspension? If yes, any thoughts on reliability? I know it was a disaster on the Infiniti Q45's, from a cost to maintain perspective. How is it with the LX?
Do the LX450's have the same options on locking the diff's?
Thanks Much!
Dana
ace
As for options, the best thing for you to do would be look in the used car section on this sight for details on each model, or go to Kelley Blue Book and do the same (kbb.com). The lockers are available on the LX, however.
IdahoDoug
BTW spent the afternoon driving '97 and 98 TLCs. Kind of liked the V8/independent suspension on a '98. The '97s all seemed ok, but for 3-4k more, the 98 was appealing. Definitely seems like a buyers market in So. Cal. at the moment.
Thanks,
Dana
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
and I am starting to do some basic research. I will likely buy either a 2002 Sequoia or a 2001 TLC. I like the size of the TLC for around town, but feel the Sequoia will be better for trips. My
choice is the TLC but my wife prefers Seq.(The SUV will be for her.) Does the TLC have sufficient cargo capacity for a family of 4 on week long trips to the beach? Can anyone give their opinion on the ride quality on long trips? It is very difficult to make a decision on a few mile test drive. Any opinions are greatly appreciated!