By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
"but my wife prefers Seq.(The SUV will be for her.)"
No, it is not easy or cheap to add a factory locker to a vehicle built without it. Some of the wiring is there behind the dash, but that's about it. You'd be talking a couple thousand dollars to add a rear locker to a '98 after the fact. You might find it cheaper to put an aftermarket locker in from ARB at that point, though frankly either strategy would be unwise versus finding a used vehicle with the factory option. The price for a used locker'd vehicle is no different than without it, as the market does not generally value this feature at all.
IdahoDoug
Again, thanks for the information on the locker. After checking out 6 TLC's, '97s '8s & 9s, I decided the V8/suspension was worth a little price difference, to me at least.
I found a pretty good '98 with 68,000 miles and most of the available options, including the rear locker, sitting on a local Honda dealer's used car lot. He spec. bought it from a Mercedes dealer trade-in, and couldn't sell it for 6 weeks.
Settled on $26,434 for it after a real circus of negotiation, including being asked to leave the lot, for insulting swine-like sales manager. (We had a somewhat lively debate about the veracity of the "cost" number that he insisted on showing me.) I enjoy the game, but this guy was the most obnoxious dealer guy I have met in 25 years. Oh well, got a great truck for what seems like ok money.
Missed a '99 up in LA that sold from a private party at $25,000 even, with 83,000 miles on it.
The info on this board was incredibly helpful in picking a used truck with the options I wanted. Thanks again.
Cheers,
Dana
IdahoDoug
The '00 open diffs front and rear may be stronger and more reliable long-term than traditional lsd/locker. Do open diffs require less fluid service? How many additional electronic components are added to the vehicle? Does TRAC use the traditional ABS system and an additional VSC/TRAC "brain" or does it consist of many additional hydraulic plumbing and components to support this system. This could get really expensive if something fails and needs replacement. If all four wheels are spinning in the mud, will this overheat the brakes or will the TRAC sense that no wheel has traction and allow them to spin without automatically retarding the throttle. This style of free-wheeling helps in deep sand/mud when using appropriately designed tires.
Any comments on advantages and disadvantages of the new vs. old 4wd systems are appreciated.
My 2000 TLC has experienced quite a few of the problems already mentioned on this message board. Accelerator Position Sensor failures (twice), Transmission failure, dashboard noise, seat heater stops working after a set time, rear brakes thumping when applying brakes under load, rear brakes squealing, transmission high-frequency pitch and transmission vibration. The first two problems (2 Accelerator Position Sensor failures and the transmission failure) left me stranded on the road 3 times. Of course the Toyota dealer fixes (or attempts to fix) any of these failures by simply replacing the malfunctioning part. Needless to say that the dealers testing of any repair is essentially non-existant. Hence, repairs are often followed by more repairs. Who benefits from this? You got it - the dealer.
I am quite disappointed with the overall quality of my vehicle and am considering going for arbitration as part of the Lemon Law. Anyone have any thoughts/experience with Toyota in that area? Incidently, I did call the Toyota 800 number for customer service. The rep basically said that all he can offer is to find me a dealer that will fix (or continue to fix) the vehicle. In addition, he offered to sell me extended warranty for the vehicle. I think that the latter offer raised a flag for me.
(This question was also posted on the discussion of Toyota 4WD)
I am having lots of problems with my 2002 nav. The local dealers and the Toyota help line are not with the program. I have 2000 V.1 and am hoping that an upgrade will solve my problems, but the dealer tells me I have the latest version.
Its only faintly defrosting some small patches. The local autoparts store suggested I look for breaks in the heating elements on the window. I carefully inspected those and failed to find any breaks.
Could it be the relay ?
Where is the relay located ?
Can I troubleshoot the source of the problem with a Fluke meter ?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Question 1: Anyone using a car cover that they like? Toyota has one for $120. Pep Boys has a substantially cheesier one for $60. Any thing else out there to consider on an internet delivery sale? Unfortuately, my garage is full, and I park under some sappy pines.
Question 2: I have two of the programmed transponder keys + a valet key. However one of the transponder keys has the back cover missing. Toyota could not help, except with a new $271 key, and an additional $74 to program it. Does anyone make an aftermarket blank that I could swap my transponder from the broken key into? Or at least switch the cover off of? If anyone has an extra key you'd like to part with, with a bum transponder, please drop me a note at wentwo@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Dana
Sears will sell you a chainsaw for about $125....
Wonder what a machinist would charge to mill one out of aluminum?
HiC
Thanks,
CJ
No real issues on the 80 series LandCruiser regarding recalls and such. You might check the NHTSA website for minor stuff, but this generation swept the awards for the highest quality and most durable SUV in its class.
I'd want to see that the vehicle was properly maintained with records of regular maintenance of the running gear (3 differentials, 2 driveshafts, tranny, engine, hubs). Also, the cooling system should have been flushed and changed regularly. If records show good maintenance, I wouldn't even be concerned about a high mile (150,000 or more) vehicle. Good luck.
Yes, the 40th had remote entry available. People often lose the remotes, so buying used it's frequent they're gone.
IdahoDoug
I was hoping that you'd chime in with some advice. I think that I'm going to be out of luck with the maintenance records on the 97 that I'm looking at. It's on a dealer lot and the sales folk don't seem too knowledgeable.
Any advice on after market toys?
IdahoDoug
IdahoDoug
Thanks!
Here are a few suppliers. JC Whitney can be kind of a schlock outfit, but if you stay with the branded items they can be cost effective.
http://www.autoanything.com
http://www.calcarcover.com
http://www.jcwhitney.com
Bob
curb weight:
4Runner - V8 Limited (to compare apples to apples)4wd -4,420lbs
L/C - 5,390lbs
height:
4Runner - 71.6in
L/C - 73.2in
width:
4Runner - 73.8in
L/C - 76.4in
Length:
4Runner - 189.0in
L/C - 192.5
Payload:
4Runner - 1,090lbs
L/C - 1,470lbs
Towing capacity:
4Runner - 5,000lbs
L/C - 6,500lbs
Cargo capacity:
4Runner - 72.4cu/ft
L/C - 90.8cu/ft
The L/C also comes with a 3rd seat which adds to weight along with alot more heft in the suspension and framing members.
Hope this helps. Mostly, teh 4Runner is a mid-sized SUV while the L/C is full-sized.
thanks,
ace
but i have a question, are they genuine toyota made? i went to the site and try to find a remote keyless for my 02 sequoia. it didn't show the picture. this is too good to be, cos the dealer told me toyota didn't make a remote keyless for accessery.... are they taken from the old car? and how easy is that to install it yourself?
Does your LC have a rack on top? If so, the gaskets where the rack is attached may have dried out. Years ago, we had large rock fall on the roof of our 92 LC. The body shop replaced the roof, but about a year later (after it had sat in one place during a rainstorm) water dripped down the front pillar to the floor as we started to move. The leak didn't happen often, I could go through a car wash, drive through rain storms, etc. But if it sat in one place during heavy rain, the water would collect.
Anyway, the explanation from the body shop was the gasket issue. They replaced the gaskets, and it was fine until we traded it in for a 95.
Good luck.
Thanks for the followup - it's nice to get the feedback that people are following sound advice and benefitting from it. Well done.
On the leak - both the 'story' from the body shop and the wet floor, Joe's on it. Remove the plug at the bottom of the rocker panel (I think there's one directly under the front doors) and water should flow out. If so, your rocker panel's thin "slit drains" are plugged with dust. Normally, water from the moonroof drains comes out here, but if they're plugged the rockers fill and then the drain hose also does.
If no water comes out, there may be a blockage in the tube (s) on the way down to the rockers. IF this is the case (not likely) gently run a thin wire down into the drain holes at edges of open sunroof recessed areas. Don't get aggressive with this or you'll dislodge the tube and have major headaches.
IdahoDoug
final sales price was $15,200. i was surprised at the overall condition. the leather of the seats isn't cracked, the stereo works, the windows are strong, tranny shifts reasonably smoothly, carpets are perfect, and the red paint is in great condition.
i would adjust your price accordingly. unfortunately, there just aren't many good examples of these things out there right now. another couple was came in as were signing the papers AND as i was getting in t drive off, yet another guy showed up to buy the rig, or so it appeared.
good luck.
ace
1. Are these typical prices for brake jobs?
2. Why are the fronts more expensive than the rears?
3. I only have 50,000 miles on the rig, is it necessary to turn the rotors?
4. Is it difficult to change the brake pads yourself? I've changed brakes on other cars in the past with no problems, but never on a TLC.
Thanks.
Anyway, just changing the pads is very easy, especially on a TLC. All you really need to do is put the rig on jack stands and pull the wheels to get access to the pads. However, I would recommend re-packing the wheel bearings. I never turn rotors on my 80 series TLC as they quickly warp, but uzj100 rotors may be thicker from the factory. I wouldn't turn them unless they are warped (pulsing brake pedal), but some folks like to turn them every time. It's your call.
If you want to do all the work yourself, you'll need 2 hub seals for the front end and a set of brake pads. You can pull the rotors and take them to any machine shop or brake shop to be turned for $10 or less each. Not sure how the rear end is setup, but if it's full-floating, you'll need 2 hub seals for it, too. Just like the front. A bearing packer from Sears works well, but cleaning the bearings and packing by hand is fine, too. Pick up a Haynes or factory manual to get torque values.
For tools, you'll need a hub socket and possibly c-clip pliers. A torque wrench is helpful. To just do the pads, no special tools are needed.
At 50K miles, I would flush the brake fluid.
Thanks very much for the fast, detailed and informative response. I can always count on this board for good info.
Thanks.
IdahoDoug
The negatives
The LC is used. It gets worst gas mileage especially since the new 4runner has the 5 speed automatic and weights less.
I would still go for the LC. Try to find a used one that is Toyota Certified and that will cover the major compenents (engine, drivetrain, etc.) for 6 years, 100k miles.
Also, try to find a used LC on a Toyota lot and compare it side by side to a '03 4Runner and you will discover which one is ultimately right you and your family. I mean get the keys to both and park them side by side with the doors open and you will see what I mean.
Of course, I would still choose the LC.
Good Luck!
Andrew
Raleigh, NC
'99 LC, ARB Winch Bar, OME Lift Kit, BFG'd ATs 285/75 R 16's
excellent business concept... i hope they make it!
ace