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Comments
I have the following quotes:
LX - $18,421 out the door (includes tint, paint seal, vin etch) I believe this is a $16994 car price.
EX - $20,133 out the door (includes same as above). $18594 car price.
I am working between a few dealerships, all of whom say this is very close to invoice (within a few dollars). Is it reasonable to think these prices could go any lower? Additionally, I have two dealers competing over the best price for an extended warranty. Is it reasonable to think I could get the warranty thrown in to seal the deal?
I am a patient guy and want the best deal. Anyone care to share thoughts or experiences that might help? Where can I negotiate more? What is a fair price for a 100k warranty (I have been told around $1200 for this - I am not impressed obviously)
Thanks so much!
What is the difference in the stock muffler and the HFP one in terms of looks? When I made the deposit on my Si yesterday, it looked as though the muffler wasn't stock? The exhaust tip was oval in shape with NO inner cone(that's not the right term, but it ran directly into the muffler), where most stock exhaust systems have what I would describe as an outter and an inner casing from the tip looking directly into it. Thanks in advance for your help.
Matt
1. Does anyone know when the supply of new vehicles starts to slow down? (I.e. when is the last month for production of 2007s?)
2. When do the 2008s begin to hit the showrooms?
I am thinking it was made 09/06.
Does that mean Honda will build 07 Civics until that late this year? I don't know. but I would say if you want to get an 08 you are looking at September and will probably be paying more for it.
BTW, the "good dealers" - the ones that will deal way down on price - are likely to run out or be in really short supply of cars near the end of the model year. The ones that do not deal low may have a lot to choose from, but STILL want too much money for them.
Dennis
Generally speaking:
The ones just off the truck may have the latest in-year updates and fewer test drive miles and less "lot rash" on them.
I assume Honda does free floor planning on new cars for the dealers? So they have xx days to sell them or start paying interest on them. This means if you pick a car that has been sitting the longest the dealer MAY be more inspired to give you a better deal since they are paying interest on it - rather than one new off the truck. One local Nissan dealership used to put a shoe polish * on glass of the ones that had been on the lot for more than xx days. Then the salesfolks could steer customers to the oldest cars, if possible.
Of course all this flies out the window at a high volume, deep discount store. They sell them as fast as they can get them in and nothing on the lot (unless some odd color or maybe a manual) is very old. The dealers who will not deal low may have a lot of stock to pick from and a lot may be old, but they probably will not make as good a deal as the low-dealing dealer will (which is why they have so many to choose from).
In any case, I don't this comes up much any more - but I think the Honda dealer gave us the oldest desert mist Accord when we got my wife's car . We did the deal over the phone and e-mail, I told them the trim line and color and they had it prepped when we got there. We test drove, signed papers, and left.
Dennis
1) Buy a new car with 0 miles on it
2) Test drive extensively before they buy
3) Get the right color and trim line
Hard to do all three of those together
The trouble is, if folks test drive the car your buy it will have miles on it. If a previous customer at another dealer has to have "their color" and that dealer had none, they swap cars with your dealer and they end up with a few more miles on the car since they (almost always) drive them to/from the dealer.
224 is really nothing, as long as the car was "perfect" when you got it (no scratches, dings, etc) you should be just fine. Any issues should show up well before the warranty is up.
The manufacture date should be on the plate inside the driver's door.
Enjoy your new Civic, it should be just fine - but just out of curiosity what are details (manual or auto, color, trim level) ? If your car was made that far back, it is strange to think it would sit so long unless it is some combination that not many folks appreciate.
Dennis
It could be that your dealer traded with a dealer that does not discount so they tend to have a bunch of cars on the lot for a while. Or maybe they just got in a lot of atomic blue cars at the same time?
Dennis
So, I need to buy a Honda Civic LX 4-dr 5-spd MT this week in the upper midwest and I'll take the bus to the right city for the right color and price. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
JM
I got my S2000 from them, my daughter her Civic EX, my boss his Accord and his son's CR-V, and a number of other happy campers.
Dennis
I was quoted an out the door price of $22K by two different dealerships in the Detroit metro area. When I back out the taxes, destination, etc. from this price, this works out to be about $20,100 for the car.
Decent price or should I try to do better?
Assuming all season rubber and no nav, this is a decent price. I was quoted $500 over invoice plus dealer fee from one dealer and another dealer quoted me just over invoice INCLUDING the dealer fee. So while you could probably do better, if your dealer fee is not high that is not a terrible price.
Keep in mind the Si qualifies for the cheap finance money from Honda, if it is available in your region. (time passes) Sorry, I checked with 48201 ZIP and Edmunds says no cheap money for you.
Dennis
we have a silver and black on the lot now. Have a Blue coming 6-20 from factory
So if you have to have it this week, no blue but they do have silver.
Dennis
You'd think Honda would be more inclined to give special financing to promote sales in the Detroit area due to the bias towards buying domestic vehicles in the area.
and, what is the deal with the internet price versus the one they quote if you walk in?
thanks
I originally wanted to get a Mazda 3i Touring MT, but I found the back seat a little small and the only color available right now is beige, which isn't for me.
I'll primarily use this car as commuter car and Consumer Reports said the manual transmission averaged 3 mpg higher than the automatic even though the EPA numbers suggest otherwise. So far, I'm averaging 31 mpg, which matches CU measurements. CU says the auto averaged 28 mpg.
I might occasionally haul my kids around, so safety is important to me. The Civic with standard side air bags achieved better gov't and IIHS safety ratings than the Mazda 3i without optional side air bags. This may not be a fair comparison, but Mazda 3i crash data with side air bags isn't available.
I wish the LX Civic had alloy wheels and it is cheaper to buy aftermarket wheels than upgrading to the EX or buying alloy wheels from the dealer. The Mazda 3i touring costs a little less the Civic and comes with alloy wheels. 4 wheel disc brakes would be nice too.
Here is some pricing info.
$ 16281 - Invoice price
$ 16066 - price paid ($215 under invoice)
$ 55 - doc fee
$ 1168 - sales tax (7.25%)
$ 175 - CA state license and registration
$ 17465 - total
-$ 5000 - down payment
$ 12465 - amount financed
$ 362 - monthly payment at 2.9% for 36 months.
Honda is offering special 2.9% financing for 36 months or 4.9% or 60 months in Northern California. 2.9% is cheap money!
The dealer was offering an even bigger discount on automatics because manual sedans aren't very common, but the manual feels a little more responsive, is fun to drive and costs less in terms of gas and purchase price. Resale value may be a different matter....
I hope somebody finds this info useful.
Thanks
PDS
thanks
Dennis
thoughts?
Civic EX (no navi)
$19,405
This includes fees, but not tax or title. Isn't MSRP $19,510? That seems like a horrible deal.
Civic Hybrid (no navi)
$22,695
no tax or title, isn't that over MSRP?
I'm looking to purchase it sometime between the 24th and 28th of June, which I thought would be a good thing. I will only be in the United States for that long, and this car is for my wife. We won't be financing, I don't want all the dealer options, since I really don't like the looks of pin striping. I purchased a Honda in the Washington DC area in 1998 (my first new car), and hated the experience, I hope this won't be the same.
Thanks for any help.
I usually use www.carsdirect.com as a barometer of pricing. I can put in my zip code or any other zip code and get what dealers are offering customers for the car. In my area the Civic Hybrid base is showing $1,000 over full MSRP or $24,195 and $19,605 for the EX with auto.
I put in a Colorado Springs zip and got $22,796 for the hybrid and $19,499 for the EX with auto.
These prices would not include dealer "doc" fees which vary from dealer to dealer, but do include the car and destination.
Say the average person drive 15,000 miles per year. If you averaged 35mpg in the EX (which may be possible) that is 429 gallons. If gas gets to $4 per gallon that is $1,716 per year.
If you could average 50mpg in the hybrid (which is not likely in real world driving) you would need 300 gallons at $4 each or $1,200 worth of gas.
So each 15k you save $516 - assuming you can really get 50mpg. The difference in the CS quotes for the two cars is $3,297 not counting tax. Saving $516 a year it would take you 6.4 years (96,000 miles) to save in $4 gas what you spent extra on the hybrid. Since gas is currently $3 a gallon (here) it would take about 128,000 miles to break even. If gas hit $5 per gallon then 76,800 miles.
The battery and IMA stuff has an 8yr 80k warranty (more in a few states) than can be extended by HondaCare to 8yrs, 120k for < $1,000. But at some point the battery will need to be replaced and the cost would eat up any savings you have received. The resale value of hybrids is unknown and if you have a used hybrid with lots of miles and the original battery you will be hard-pressed to get a good price for it, since the battery replacement will likely be so high.
Unless you drive a ton of miles, I would get the EX. Proven car, still gets good mileage, proven resale. The hybrid premium is still to much for me - for sure when my local dealers want MSRP + $1k.
Dennis
I sent replies back to all 3 dealerships with prices that I would be willing to pay, but with the wonderful services I've received so far (only 1 real quote from the 3 dealerships) I don't think I will have much luck. Maybe I will try a couple more to see if anyone else has better service.
I assume you are looking at the coupe? The same dealer that would sell me an Si sedan for $500 over invoice would charge me MSRP or more for a coupe. If it were me, I would go test drive a sedan and see how you like it
Here, either Si model qualifies for the cheap financing offer - another reason to get an in stock Si w/NAV and do the cheap money. This is a regional offer so may not apply to you.
Dennis
We also qualified for the cheap financing, but we're not financing much of the car (around $5k), and my bank (which I absolutly love) came withing a few $'s a month, so I'm going to stick with the bank.
They also brought up the interested paid for cars, doesn't this only come into play after the car has sat on the lot for a certain length of time?
They did inform me that since my first email the price has dropped $200 to $19,205 plus tax and title.
Another note, I don't want to bring up dealer hold back in price discussions, but in the message I received I would say 50% of it was about how they need to pay for eletricity, pay lots of people like lot techs, mechanics, clerical staff, and it went on and on. I don't want to get a guilt trip about how Johnny won't be able to feed his family if I don't pay at least some amount over invoice.
Thanks
Go to Edmunds.com and do the price with options on the Civic you want, put in a ZIP code for the area you want to get the car. After you have the Edmund's "what others are paying" price there should be a link to click to get dealer quotes. Click it and put in your contract info. One or more dealers should contact you will prices.
In some areas I guess their may be an ad fee and it might be listed on the invoice. In those areas, getting a car "At invoice" means you pay that too.
If you don't have any luck with good prices, then expand your search to other areas. Where else could you pick up the car?
Dennis
The idea of going to a website to see the prices paid in an area, to me seems like that should be the average price, so you should be able to get below average. I'm sure there are other people who pay more than that.
The problem with Colorado is after you get outside of Colorado Springs or Denver you usually need to go a long way before you get to much else, and I can't imagine a high volume Honda dealership within a couple hundred miles. I don't know how far I would be willing to go if they are currently only coming in at less than $500 over the invoice they show. I guess if other locations had lower fees the invoice price could be lower. If anyone knows of a good dealership within 200-300 miles of Denver I would be willing to travel about that far. I did contact a dealership in Colorado Springs that had a lower price by about $200, but I haven't found out exactly what was included in that price.
Thanks again.
This is especially true with high volume cars like the civic, accord, etc. It's kind of like flipping a house, the faster you move the cars, the better, since they're paying the manufacturer interest.
What's selling (and what kind of a deal they'll offer) also varies a lot, depending on where you live. A dealer in farm country may have a heck of a time selling a S2000, while in suburbia the dealer may not be able to get their hands on them fast enough. Here in Texas, they've got cheap loan incentives on Civics, probably because people love their trucks and SUV's down here.
In Twin Cities
Dealer is willing to give me 17355$ for a 2007 Honda Civic LX automatic
Not including taxes, docs,title, and license
Edmunds.com says $17655
BUT invoice 16349
And "what others are paying" is $16987
And Edmunds says:the invoice price is almost always higher than the amount the dealer actually ends up paying to the manufacturer. "
So, Am I getting a decent deal or not?
Most of the time now if you go through the dealer's "internet department" they will know your are savvy to the invoice costs, dealer incentives, cheap leases, cheap financing, and even (gasp) hold back. That means they will normally shoot your a nice price right off the bat. You may can bargain them down some, but they will not normally give you a price way over invoice to start with.
So if your dealer is starting with a high price and not willing to drop it to what others are paying, then find another dealer. If contact a dealer and their first offer is real high and has a whopper "doc" fee, I usually don't bother with them any longer. When you find one of the good ones the whole process is really simple - they give you a bottom line price that does not have much fluff in it, right from the start.
Dennis
The trouble with your "theory" is that in my experience the dealers that will deal tend to have few cars sitting around. They blow them out cheap as soon as they get them and can't afford (due to small profits on each deal) to have them sitting around.
Cases in point: when my daughter was looking for a Civic EX last year near the end of model year, the place that would do a $300-400 over invoice (a good deal at the time) had 2 colors to choose from and 3 cars total. The local dealers who would not come off of full MSRP had tons of cars. Same is true when I got my 05 S2000 - my local dealerships had many to choose from and would not deal, the dealer that sold me mine for invoice had 2 or 3 left. The local dealers STILL had tons of them on the lots months later when I was in for an oil change.
So what I normally find in the opposite - find a dealer with little stock and you will find one that moves cars. Find one with lots of choices and you will be looking at a high price and probably a high doc fee.
Dennis
Just agreed on a price w/ a dealer. I will pick it up tomorrow and do the paperwork. I e-mailed local dealerships for price quotes before I even went.
I live in California (Bay Area) 8.25% sales tax.
After much haggling and stressful negotiations, we agreed on $17,700 OTD. I think that's a pretty fair deal.
We'll see what happens. I told them if they add more fees tomorrow, I will walk.
My Advice: Go to carbuyingtips.com and read their New Car Buying Guide!