2013 and earlier-Honda Civic Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • rwhrwh Member Posts: 29
    I'm getting the impression invoice price is generally the standard right now for the Civic LX or EX 4-door. If you can purchase the car for invoice price then you're doing about as well as most current buyers. And isellhondas is correct in stating to forget about the OTD cost. Taxes, license and title fees are not negotiable items. You have to pay whatever your state requires.

    Enjoy your new Honda. I'm still waiting for my black EX.
  • kathyc1kathyc1 Member Posts: 138
    Gas not that high here...yet. Also, I see a lot of the CRVs pulled behind large RVs. Anyway, I'm hoping to get a good trade in value for it. I'm not so worried about hauling passengers as I am being able to get to my dogs if something happens. That's why I was initially pricing a sadan. I have a feeling Seattle and Phoenix/Arizona cowboys are different. Those big SUVs and trucks still selling big here. My neighbor and her husband just bought a used 2006 CRV.
  • cvicbuyercvicbuyer Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    I have a current quote from a dealer in Raleigh, NC for $16,700. I know the invoice without the "destination fee" is around $16,300. With the 2008s around the corner is it possible to get cheaper than the 16,700 price? I have pushed a few dealers and am getting a bit of push back on going lower than this price. I would think with the 2008s coming around the corner they would be more flexible with the price. Also does anyone know when the 2008s are coming out and an idea of their price for the LX?

    Thanks for the info.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    The dealer has to pay destination and passes the cost along (no markup) to you, so why even look at numbers without it?

    Invoice on a 2007 LX Civic sedan with auto is $16,944, the 5 speed invoice is $16,210 - these numbers include destination.

    If you have a dealer that will sell you the LX auto sedan for $16,700 including destination and dealer fees you should go get it.

    Don't be one of those folks that tries to squeeze every nickel out of the deal and make yourself miserable. It is mid-May, hardly "just around the corner" to the new 08 models. Take a good deal and enjoy your new Civic!

    Dennis
  • error438error438 Member Posts: 17
    That sounds like a great price. I say go for it. Was it hard to get it that low?
  • cvicbuyercvicbuyer Member Posts: 3
    Just wanted to clarify my original post 16700 for the automatic LX civic plus doc fee 400 plus 3% tax in NC plus tags total out the door price 17,668.
  • blownalcoholblownalcohol Member Posts: 19
    That deal is close to my quotes. I have a quote from charlotte dealer for $17,555 otd for LX auto. I am thinking about the EX auto now for $19,200 otd with splashguards and accent stripes. I really don't like the stripe, but atleast they are the stripes with the logo.
  • rik4rik4 Member Posts: 90
    the 400.00 doc fee is outrageous. tell them to lower the price of the car or you will walk or get rid of the 400.00 fee.
  • david96david96 Member Posts: 3
    These guys make their money based on how many cars they move each month.They don't get a commission on each car sold as I had originally thought(at least in CT). The way to do this is find the invoice price, deduct $700 from that price. They obviously won't go for it, so you ask them what they are willing to do to get your business. The final offer they make should be at least $400 below cost.Trust me, they willmake it up by ripping off the next customer that walks in.

    Good luck and don't give in....
  • mourningdovemourningdove Member Posts: 7
    I just bought my new 2007 Civic LX AT yesterday for $16,758 which includes destination. They also threw in floor mats and wheel and splash guards. Nice deal! I had a fairly hassle free experience for my first time buying the car. :) I also qualified for the 2.9% financing which was fabulous :)
  • jmastronjmastron Member Posts: 11
    I don't really have a problem with a dealer accounting for a "doc" fee of whatever amount, but I do have a problem with it not being included in the "quote" price. An offer $200 below invoice with a $400 doc fee is really an offer of $200 *above* invoice. Which may or may not be a good deal for that car in that area on that day. It's important to clarify with any quotes (phone, email, or in person) what the price is *inclusive* of all non-state-mandated charges.

    To get accurate tax/title/license information, go to your state/local DMV website or tax assessor, as appropriate. The rates should be there (you'd need to know what to collect/submit if you were buying or selling a car privately).

    In this forum, the best price to discuss is the post-dealer-fee, pre-tax-title-license price (because the latter varies a lot from place to place).

    I'll agree with "isellhondas" that it's not really any of my business what their profit margin/holdback/etc are, as long as I'm able to get a "real" price quote that includes everything that I can compare and shop against for the best price someone is willing to sell for (and knowing the above just helps me get a ballpark idea of what that good price might be). Separating a last-minute $400 fee from the real price is unfair IMHO, just as much as waiting until the documents are prepared and then springing a trade-in on the dealer.

    I'll disagree with "isell" that *many* of these prices didn't happen, however, as I have a shiny (okay, dirty now) Atomic Blue EX and a sales document that matches mine :) A few might be fabricated, though I'm not sure why someone would go to the trouble to do that.

    Enjoy!

    Josh
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Upstaging the other guy and, believe me, some of the so called "prices paid" simply never happened.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Isell: You've mentioned this in a few forums that some people are exaggerating their prices. I know you sell Hondas but can you explain how you know some of these prices are not real?
  • will26will26 Member Posts: 62
    $18900.00 destination included in this price
    $65 service fee
    5.5% tax

    Dealer said he would sell it to me for that price even though they won't make a profit on it. Is that true? Does this seem like a fair price?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,777
    Sure. I can help you with this one.

    I can tell you, "I paid $23k for a brand new EXL V6!"

    what i've left out, however, is that I paid a $500 doc fee, $400 pinstriping, $250 wheel wax, and received $1k less for my trade-in than the dealer is going to sell it at auction for.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • ilokanoilokano Member Posts: 2
    I received a qoute of $17598 OTD for an 07 civic LX 4door auto. I'm in california. Is this a good deal?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, I know what we pay for our cars.

    When I see someone spouting off that they paid less than a dealer paid even after deducting holdback and any incentive money and there was no trade involved, I know that price never happened.

    I think some people just forget or they want to upstage everyone else.
  • moon200xmoon200x Member Posts: 1
    Looks like a very good deal to me.

    I need to buy one soon, same 2007 Civic LX AT, in San Diego area.

    Which dealership? thanks.
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    Just closed the deal on my new civic, when I bought my 04 lx brand new I paid 14,500. Just finished after a few days of looking around and negotiations, all said and done we closed on 16,250 for an 07 civic lx at coupe including destination fees and everything, definitely be interested in hearing if anyone has gotten a better deal than that, if not hope it helps anyone out there with knowing what they might want to aim for. Several dealers wouldn't even talk lower than 17k, just a tip find a dealer with a very high sale volume, they're just plain able to offer better deals because of the amount of cars they move. Again, looking forward to hearing what anyone has to say!
  • ilokanoilokano Member Posts: 2
    When you said "closed", do you mean the out the door price? were there any added option with that? 16250 sounds like a sweet deal.
  • mourningdovemourningdove Member Posts: 7
    I got mine at Pacific Honda, but I originally got that quote from Hoehn. Hoehn didn't have the color I wanted, so I went with Pacific who matched the price (they wouldn't go any lower - other dealerships couldn't meet or beat it) and threw in some accesories.
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    I mean obviously it can't be the otd price because it doesn't include a monstrous 8.65 percent sales tax, and of course the like 100ish plate fees, but everything included, no doc fees or anything added, 16250 was the deal we got(it's not like we fell on that deal, it took hours of negotiating with several levels of salespeople), from what i researched it seemed to be about $150 above invoice. Going to pick it up in about an hour :)

    and yeah, no other options added, I don't know about most people but once i've been negotiating for 3 hours I don't want to start all over again on things I could care less about, like mud flaps or a stupid pin stripe. Get it aftermarket and save yourself a bundle.
  • riddlermythriddlermyth Member Posts: 40
    Im new and looking for a new car to buy (within next 3 months). Right now, Im considering the Civic, Corolla, Elantra, and maybe the Mazda3. Out of them all, Civic is probably #1.

    The best OTD price I can get on one (4 door, automatic, DX edition - I think) is $20,668 - MUCH higher than the other cars... What's a good price on one?!? Right now Im in Florida, but will be moving cross country to Seattle - so if I dont get a good deal here, I'll just get one there. HELP!
  • eyepoppereyepopper Member Posts: 1
    I paid 20,458 here in San Antonio with Benson Honda, Brought them down almost 1700 bucks off MSRP, 112 over invoice price. So can this be done with any car probably. You just got to figure out what price will they be willing to let it go for. What I saw from their computers when I was negotiating a deal is that 20,232 was dealer cost but since I financed thru honda they will get an incentive of 2.9% kick back of part of my loan. So to them, dont know maybe they profit some 600 bucks still. A little off the car and a a fair share of the loan. I think anybody can get this deal on this car. You just have to know that when they say how about this .....you send them back till you get what you want...within reason of course. It took about 4 hours for me to bring them down.
  • will26will26 Member Posts: 62
    I just picked up my EX (4 door non navigation auto) tonight:

    $18850
    $59 service fee
    $123.50 title and license.
    tax $1040.00 5.5%

    total: $20072.50 OTD

    In Wisconsin
  • joecarnutjoecarnut Member Posts: 215
    If that trim is correct, that is way too much for a DX.
    DX is the bottom trim.
    Could you have meant EX?

    You can get LX's (a higher trim) for in the mid 17500's OTD if you look around a bit.
  • riddlermythriddlermyth Member Posts: 40
    Oh Im sure its a DX. Lowest one. Whats a good OTD for it (automatic, 6% tax)?

    Aisha
  • tslbmwtslbmw Member Posts: 172
    MSRP $22143
    Purchase price $20,550 + 3% tax + $189 processing fee
    OTD $21355

    I will pick it up the day after Memorial day.....I hate waiting. Hope this helps anyone in the market for one. Edmunds invoice $20,182.
  • jefframm07jefframm07 Member Posts: 4
    Just read the posts after my original and see Isellhonda's point about not bothering with the OTD numbers....

    For clarity, my price for the Civic Si 4 door was $20517.00 and that included everything except tax (7% here in GA) and title/tag ($22). The car already had pinstriping and mud-flaps added, so those are in the $20517 price.

    Hope that helps with clarity. Thanks again for the advice.
    best,
    jeff
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    If your here putting an OTD price then you obviously know nothing about buying a car. Tax percentage depends SOLELY on location, I payed 8.65 percent tax here on long island, thats double what some people pay depending on where they live, the important number is the total price BEFORE tax, if you want to talk on this website, and compare prices you HAVE to post THAT number, not an OTD price that includes a geographically varying tax fee. Is that hard to understand?
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Some of us live in the same area with the same taxe rates, doc fees, etc. and we want to know the whole cost breakdown...that's not hard to understand...is it? By posting "all the numbers", we can all benefit and just use the figures that each of us wants to. I personally want to know all the fees someone else paid at a dealer that I bought at and at the one's that didn't get my business.
    Bottom line...post everything and use just what figures you need. End of story. Maybe the hosts should decide on this matter.
    And Chris, maybe I don't know as much about "buying a car" as you do, but I have bought a fair number of them in the last 30 years.

    The Sandman :)
  • kork13kork13 Member Posts: 90
    Just wondering if anyone is in the So. Oregon/No. Cal area who's gotten or looked at the Si Sedan w/ Navigation? I'll be buying one within ~2 weeks, and am looking for a place to start negotiation, and what I should be expecting to actually pay. Thanks
  • jmastronjmastron Member Posts: 11
    I agree with both you and Chris (I don't think Chris was saying not to include the OTD number, just to include the rest of the info also). To me, the breakdown including OTD is a way to check that everybody's using the same comparison (and this addresses some of "isellhonda"'s issue with unrealistic prices). The best breakdown includes:

    1a: Base price
    1b: Destination fee
    1c: Dealer doc/advertising/other fees

    (the above 3 can be combined; as far as I'm concerned that's the real "price" of the car. A price $200 below invoice with a $400 doc fee is really $200 above invoice)

    2: Dealer installed options, if any (pinstriping, wheel locks, etc). It can often be worth expanding your search to find a dealer that doesn't put these items on every car if you don't want them.

    3a: Tax/title/license. This you should be able to match exactly with info from your DMV given the price above. In some states, it can vary by county or town.
    3b: Any other "government" fees (tire recycling fees etc).

    4: All of the above should equal the total OTD price

    5: Some basic info on financing, trade-in is good too (e.g. "I financed with the dealer at 38% APR and they gave me $500 for my 2006 Lexus" might change the deal a bit :-) As might "I got 0% financing and they gave me $10000 for my 95 Neon :-))

    If you're getting an email or phone quote, it's a good idea to get that breakdown anyway, as it prevents surprises later.

    Enjoy!

    Josh
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    Maybe you read my post wrong, obviously all those numbers are important, the only varying item here is sales tax. If you want to put an OTD number including sales tax then include that rate of tax that was payed, just saying I payed 20k for a car means nothing not knowing where it came from, or the tax included there. Now thats a big difference if I payed twice the sales tax and got the same price now isn't it? By all means total cost should always include all dealer fee's, sales tax is in no way included in any of these calculations, the government isn't a negotiable entity, like I said, you want to post what you payed with sales tax, fine, then don't you think what percentage you payed would be a very important number to include? Seems to me the only problem here is you didn't read my post very carefully.
  • jmastronjmastron Member Posts: 11
    Not sure if you're responding to me -- I agree with you, I was just trying to expand on what you said.

    In many areas, it's not just a simple tax rate to calculate TTL -- in California, there's a fixed registration fee, then a value-based license fee, then sales tax on top of that. So it's hard to determine the pre-TTL price from the OTD with just a percentage rate, unless you know the details.

    And some dealers (or people here) seem to creatively move numbers around to make it seem like other things are part of TTL, so some people get confused when they report the "price"

    Anyway, I know I personally appreciate you and everyone else who posts the details; it helps everybody be an informed consumer (it helped me determine whether the quotes I was getting were a decent deal or not).

    Thanks,

    Josh
  • macho2macho2 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a Civic EX, Coupe, Manual Transmission at the following price:

    Purchase Price: $17,851
    Dealer & Doc fess: $399
    Total: $18,250

    Tax is another 7.4% in Colorado. I was happy with the price, and thought it was about the best I could do. The $17,851 is still $1000 less than the Edmunds TMV for my region.
  • macho2macho2 Member Posts: 2
    In reference to the above msg, I should add that I did not have a trade-in and financed at 2.9 % with the dealer, which beat any other financing rate I could have gotten. Also, I didn't buy any extended warranty or alarm system.
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    Just responding to sandman, everything you said was completely agreeable.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Has anybody leased an Si sedan? I'd like to have one as a weekend playtoy, but don't want to buy it outright.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Is your car equipped with NAV or not? Summer tires or all season?

    Who did you deal with? You can e-mail me via my profile with the dealer info, if you would like.

    I had the S2000 in for an oil change today and test drove a new Si sedan. Thinking of getting one to replace my RX-8 (it is a THIRSTY car).

    Thanks,

    Dennis
  • rwhrwh Member Posts: 29
    Your price is almost identical to what I paid in Iowa. $18888 included the dealer fee and destination for an 07 EX 4 door AT without navigation. I could have bought a different color than black for $250 less because they had to go get one. But even with the $250 charge it was as good as or better than most of the out of town offers. I didn't get any offers elsewhere good enough to justify driving an hour or two.

    A question for the group: the car came in today and during the inspection they found a spot about the size of a quarter the salesman said was probably "paint over dust" and they're going to repair it. He said it was hard to see but if the light was right you could notice it. I'll have to wait two more days to pick it up.

    Now, do you think if I would have bought a Chevy, Dodge or Ford they would have voluntarily fixed this?
  • chris07civchris07civ Member Posts: 8
    Now on the 07 civic lx I just bought it has that ipod link port in it, I can't seem to find anywhere what cord it is that I need to purchase to hook it up, I see several Ipod music links for the civic, however all I should need is one mesely wire to connect the two, I'm assuming this should just be a simple wire I can purchase at bestbuy or such, any help is greatly appreciated.
  • will26will26 Member Posts: 62
    I also bought the car in black and the day after I picked it up my boyfriend noticed a mark on the rear driver side door. It was also very hard to notice by looking straight at it but if you look from the side just right it almost looks like a tennis ball mark. A perfect circle. He said it was under the clear coat and can't be buffed out. Let me know if they fix it. You really can't notice it and so I am wondering, if I leave it could it possibly be prone to rust in the future?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If it were mine, I would bring it back and have the dealer you purchased the vehicle from, repair it. While it does NOT sound like it would be prone to rust in the future, it is hard to diagnose something like this on a thread. If it is true it is UNDER the clear coat, that is almost proof positive YOU didn't do it or it was done to you in a parking lot or something, i.e., done at the dealer to correct a problem. This is not really a big deal. Stuff like this happens to new cars ALL the time. They obviously did not do a good enough job.
  • jmastronjmastron Member Posts: 11
    If the LX has the same 1/8" jack (like a headphone jack) that the EX has, you can get a cord at RadioShack (you're looking for stereo 1/8" male plug to 1/8" male plug) for a few bucks. Or you could take a two old headphone cords and make one yourself :-)

    With that, you don't have control over the Ipod from the radio. Honda has some other accessory, for $300 or so, that gets installed in the glovebox and connects to the Ipod's dock port, and supposedly can some control some aspects from the radio controls. I'd recommend trying the $5 solution first :-)

    Josh
  • tomsr1tomsr1 Member Posts: 130
    I have a 2006 Honda Civic EX automatic coupe with 10000 miles.Has been garaged since day 1 and is almost perfect except for a small scrape on the rear bumper.KBB and NADA
    both say 16500 for trade in but Edmunds says 15500. Who is right? I would like a bigger car that's why I am asking.
  • prosource1prosource1 Member Posts: 234
    'both say 16500 for trade in but Edmunds says 15500.'

    Your car is worth whatever a dealer will give you for it. Some will allow (much) more than others. When trading my 04 Pilot, I went to 3 dealers. I received offers from as pitifully low as $13k up to $20k. I took the $20k. I also got the new Pilot $6k below msrp so they weren't playing with the numbers.
    Edmunds had it booked out at $22-23k but the truck had nearly 100,000 miles on it and I knew I was never getting that. I took the $20k and was pleased.
  • jcoryjcory Member Posts: 17
    Which dealership did you get this at? I'm also in Iowa, and was wondering if your dealer experiences around here mimic ours...

    Sounds like they were pretty good about finding and offering to fix a problem that you didn't even see yourself.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Like prosource said it is worth whatever you can get someone to give you for it.

    Sounds like a cream-puff - and you could realize a lot more money with private sale than you could with a trade in. You have to consider tax savings, though. Here you get a credit for the trade towards your sales tax on the new car. So if you got $16,000 trade in you would save $1,120 in sales tax - so that is like selling your car for $17,120. You tax rate and policy may (and will) vary.

    With the new Accord design coming soon, I would move the car now if you want something else. Once the new design is on the road, the value of the older design cars will drop a good bit (unless the new design is terrible).

    Dennis
  • gussguss Member Posts: 1,167
    It looks like tomsr1 has a Civic, why would it drop because a new Accord is coming out ?
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